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A friend dropped off an old eMachine tower that he complained was running slow on Windows XP Home. Looked at the front of the eMachine and it stated Celeron D 335, so I figured cool, it might support the socket 775 E4300 1.8Ghz Core 2 Duo with 2M Cache that I have laying around and can give him for a free upgrade.

What a disappointment it was to find out that they actually made a Celeron D 2.8Ghz in Socket 478 design. I assumed that all Celeron D and Pentium D's were in socket 775 design. I looked the motherboard up ONLINE to see what CPU's it supported and was surprised that the motherboard was a good quality but low cost/ low featured Intel Motherboard and the most powerful CPU supported in it is a socket 478 Pentium 4 3.4Ghz Extreme Edition. I ENDED up picking up a cheap Pentium 4 3.0Ghz HT 1M/800 socket 478 for $5.95 with free shipping off of ebay last night which is supported by this motherboard and this should make an improvement to its speed with 4x more Cache and HT for 1 physical core + 1 virtual core which acts like a dual-core.

He doesnt have much money and so I am actually buying this CPU out of my own pocket because what is $6 anyways among friends.

Question I have is that his system currently has 333Mhz DDR RAM in it ( 2 x 512MB ) sticks and it supports 400Mhz DDR RAM. Anyone know if its even worth it to try to find ( 2 x 512MB or a single 1GB ) 400Mhz RAM for it?

The multiplier should be fine at 9 x 333 for 2997Mhz for the 3Ghz CPU, but not sure if there is much more to gain in 333 to 400Mhz FSB RAM or not.

I remember a ways back someone brought to me a home built gaming system with 266Mhz FSB RAM in a motherboard that supported 266,333,400 FSB and they had a single 1GB Kingston DDR 266Mhz stick in a motherboard running a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz HT 1M/800 and the multiplier was like 10.5 to match the 2800Mhz and swapping them over to ( *2 x 512MB DDR 400Mhz ) sticks ( *RAM that was pulled from a DOA system but still good ) installed in a motherboard that also supported dual-channel made a world of difference in better performance, BUT... there was 2 beneficial gains 400Mhz vs 266Mhz and Dual-Channel vs Single-Channel. So how much was gained by each benefit which was recognized as a whole when booted.

I asked why they spent the money to build a decent gaming system back almost 10 years ago, and skimped out on the memory speed and they claimed that the guy at this one computer shop offered them a deal that day and they didnt know there was better faster RAM available for it to better match the CPU. They were told that these parts are all compatible and here is the price tag for it all to be custom built. Later on in its use it was showing lag, and thats when it was brought to me to check it out.

A long time ago I remember installing 400Mhz DDR RAM into my Athlon XP 2800+ system in place of the 333Mhz DDR RAM as part of the upgrade from 512MB to 1024MB RAM and I didnt NOTICE any performance gain other than the fact that I could have more applications running at the same time than before. I also though am not sure of the motherboard was running the 400Mhz RAM really downclocked at 333Mhz EITHER to where there is no real speed difference. This motherboard died in 2008 and so I dont have it to look back at to see what the FSB was running at with say CPU-Z etc.

As far as his use of this computer, he plays online games through the low end old computers 64MB shared memory of Intel Extreme Graphics GPU with the 865 chipset, so games on facebook and other online non-graphics intensive games which are turn based for example run ok on it, but the Celeron D running Windows XP Home SP3 on 80GB IDE HDD with 1GB of 333Mhz DDR RAM is lagging pretty badly. I performed a clean factory install and its quick until after all the what must me almost 200 updates to SP3 in which it just crawls because the CPU is WEAK. My daughter has a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz HT which is also a 1M/800 CPU with 1GB of DDR 400Mhz and it runs quite well and can even play some modern games like World of Warcraft 5.4.1, but she also isnt running integrated graphics, she is running on a 8x AGP GeForce 6200 with 256MB RAM so there is no good comparison really other than I know that the P4 HT 3Ghz will be way better than the Celeron D single-core CPU that he has now.
The speed difference going from 333 to 400MHz memory will be unnoticeable, a few benchmarks may show a slight improvement but in the real world, nothing. Definitely don't spend any money on this.
1GB sticks of DDR tend to cost more than they're worth to most people, if you can find 2GB at a reasonable price upgrading to that may be worth it, but unless it's dirt cheap I wouldn't bother.Thanks Calum .... will stick with the 333Mhz RAM then.

And yes this system is not worth much and not really worth putting much money into it. But the CPU upgrade from the Celeron D 335 2.8Ghz with 256k Cache single-core to Pentium 4 HT 3.0Ghz with 1M Cache will make a performance gain since I have upgraded from Celeron to Pentium 4 before to have a feel for what is to be gained.

This is the ebay merchant I went through to get the CPU. I looks like he or she has many of them available for $5.95 with free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Pentium-4-3-0-GHz-socket-478-CPU-SL7E4-1M-800-P4-HT-3000-Prescott-/221319931544?pt=CPUs&hash=item3387b22698#ht_1574wt_896

While its nice that old parts are available cheap on ebay for inexpensive upgrades like this one, I was kind of surprised that there still seems to be a good market for 10 year old parts and people buying socket 478 CPUs in bulk etc. I can see a couple sold to people like myself who want to stretch the usable life out of an old computer or two, but to see some auctions for them sold in bulk with a buyer count listed, it makes me wonder who needs these in bulk when its so affordable anymore to build newer. Maybe there is a market for Pentium 4 CPU systems in a poorer region of the world in which a refurb computer is the first family computer and a Pentium 4 is plenty for getting online and can run Windows XP, Vista, or 7 without too much trouble as well as Linux Distros also run well on them with at least 1GB RAM to run with minimal load time lag.

Sometimes I still see Pentium 4 refurb systems for sale on newegg and Tiger Direct for like $120 with Windows 7 Home 32-bit , where at that price tag, the OS itself even if purchased in bulk is a good 75% of the price tag, so the hardware was only valued at like $40. But most of them are Pentium D and early Core 2 Duo's these days.

One of my friends asked me for a way to not have to place the DVD's into the DVD Rom to play games as for he is CONSTANTLY swapping between games and horrible at putting the games back into their original sleeves / cases and come up missing on him.

I guess he tried buying some software through Paragon that emulates an optical drive and CREATES images of the original discs and while this works on some games it doesnt work on all games without errors.

I told him that I would check into a Carousel Drive similar to the CD changers that are placed into vehicles which store discs and can read them when needed. But the only problem is that I cant seem to find such a thing for a computer? The closest thing I could come up with in google search was this DEVICE that can serve up the discs to you to take the disc and place it them from this storage unit into the drive and then when done place it back into the carousel. The only problem is that this is not the best solution for him. The good thing is that he has money and can spend up to $1500 on such a device, I just need to pair him up with a device if one can be found.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA00Z0M71878

The only other thing I can think of, and this is a really sloppy solution would be to tell him to pick out say 8 of the most played games and buy 8 external USB DRIVES and populate them with the games he will frequently run that require the original disc 1 in the optical drive to play. But if he had th option to place all game CD and DVD's into a carousel like this organizer that also had a built in CD/DVD drive reader functionality that would be the best solution for him.

He also OWNS some games that you can get through steam, but he owns the original disc and having to play specific ones that made their way to Steam would require having to purchase a duplicate game which seems wasteful. I have run into the same issue myself with games that I bought on disc in jewel case which are available through steam and if you want them accessible to steam, you need to buy a copy through them, but the good thing for my few titles is that they had deals where the price of the game through steam was like $4.99 vs $20 which I paid for the original game with the jewel case etc.

Hello to the forum. I just recently purchased some computer items as UNCLAIMED warehouse freight and don't really KNOW much about them. I bought an IBM X-series E-server 8655-7RX, a SierraPro Pro-16 16V5SR (video router?) and a large locking and vented metal clam SHELL case for the server. All of this is circa 2004 and never were taken out of the box. I paid $500 for everything. I have done some searches, FOUND some info on the Sierra but not so much on the IBM. First, was this a good purchase. Second, is this equipment still viable and third, what would a ballpark WORTH on each of these items be? Thank you very much for reading this.

Facebook yesterday and today has been very laggy when typing in TEXT to text boxes on the walls etc, however when typing in my complaint at this link there was no lag at all.

Anyone else having this same issue?

https://www.facebook.com/help/community/question/?id=10153467229805411No problem here Dave. Just to rule out any sort of CONFLICT, have you tried Firefox Safe Mode?Just wanted to write BACK to state that the issue seems to be gone now. With no changes at my end. My thoughts are that it was something at Facebooks end, but Allan REPORTED that all was well just minutes after my initial post.

The lag was not present with IE on multiple computers, but was with Firefox and yet Firefox is still at 25.0.1 so it hasnt taken any patches etc. Home internet bandwidth was ALSO very minimal with no streaming etc to add lag etc through conjestion.

Oh well, glad its ok now

I live in northern California in a suburban area north of Sacramento.
Recently the ATT email SETTINGS have changed here. I was wondering if others have also noticed this.
Examples:
POP3 was inbound.att.net and now is pop.att.yahoo.com
SMTP was outbound.att.net and now is smtp.att.yahoo.com

SSL is still required. Authentication is still the actual ATT email address.

These settings were GIVEN by voice from an automated system. The web site does not have this information. Very confusing.
Do you also have ATT DSL service? Do you use these POP and SMTP settings?This reminds me of the migration from old to new when Adelphia switched to Comcast. Some were still on the old Adelphia settings while others were on the new Comcast e-mail settings.

While AT&T to my knowledge has not gone through a major restructuring, they may be performing a SERVER hardware migration from old to new and to make the old hardware work along side the new its best to have different settings and then move controlled groups of customers over to the new servers at a TIME until all are eventually MIGRATED over.They have...

Hi

please tell me what do you think about buying PiPO M9 PRO 3G ? i was looking for some cheap but
very GOOD SPECS Android tablet and i found this one: http://www.imgspirit.com/pipo-m9-pro-3g-32gb-fhd-android-tablet-review/
It really SOUND great

thank youSave some more money...Quote from: patio on November 28, 2013, 11:52:21 AM

Save some more money...

Ok, I read the post here on how to DOWNLOAD youtube VIDEOS, but I followed those instructions, and it's not working. For one, I'm not sure what to download the file as. And once I do download it, I need to edit it through my windows movie maker. How would I do this? Thanks for the HELP.

I have a dell studio laptop.What have you TRIED and what didn't work?OKAY so go to youtubesnips.com and past the link of the website. Or go to the video directly on youtube and just add snips between youtube and .com It can download in in 3gp, flv, or mp4. 3gp is usually for mobile devices, but mp4 is the one you are looking for as it is compatible with windows movie makerAlrighty, thanks, so I was able to download it as an mp4, but when I attempted to open the file and edit it in windows movie maker, I couldn't find the file. I dragged it to desktop it make it easy, and it wouldn't come up. What's goin on?http://hd-video-transferring-mac-wins.jimdo.com/2013/08/18/mp4-converter-what-if-mp4-files-not-working-with-windows-movie-maker/
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-vista/problems-importing-files-into-windows-movie-maker

I was pretty sure movie maker supported mp4. If the problem persists convert the file. (links above)

It even says on the website
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-live/movie-maker-file-types-faq

Today while I was working on my computer, the screen went black, but you could still SEE the faint impression of the page I was just on and the computer doesn't turn off. I close the lid, let it go into sleep mode, open it, and the screen lights up again to the page I was on. Do you have any suggestions?Does the lid have to shut and SYSTEM have to go into sleep mode to get it back? It could be an intermittent break in the ribbon cable that powers the back lighting circuit. Next time it does this, try slowly shutting the lid but not all the way to where its going to TRIGGER the laptop to go into sleep mode and watch to see if it comes on before you shut the lid, as well as reopen it again without completely shutting lid and see if the display lights back up again with back lighting.

If you do not get it to come back by essentially flexing the ribbon cable in this manner then the back lighting circuit may be troubled and after it heats up it cuts out. So when closing the lid the high voltage circuit cools and then you open the lid and boot it and its a cold or WARM start vs a HOT start.

If this is the case then you will need to buy either a replacement backlight for the display or an entire laptop display if its a sealed unit with the backlighting.

The issue is either the screen or cable if its an led screen.. Typically you would not buy a "backlight" but replace the screen itself minus the plastic bezel etc. if its an lcd screen there is an inverter that might be bad as well... sounds like an easy fix, best of luck to you.

Hello everybody, I have just registered and would like some help with this minor problem please.

When I post a question, the time of that post seems to be the actual time in the USA, I am in the UK and would want to see my local time displayed. Can you explain how I can achieve this?

Ronnie.At a time when you are logged in, click on "Profile" at the top of the Forum page. Then ""Modify Profile" and then "Look and Layout" and then try clicking "auto select" next to the Time Offset box. This should put the correct offset (in hours) in the box - 7 for the UK at this time of YEAR. If this does not happen put it in manually and click the "Change Profile" button at the bottom. You will have to change the offset again twice in the spring and twice in the autumn when CLOCKS go forward/back because they don't do it the same day in the USA and Europe. (UK forward: last Sunday in March; back: last Sunday in October, USA forward: second Sunday in March; back: first Sunday in November)

Hi Salmon,
Thanks for a very informative and very detailed reply. I have AMENDED my profile as you suggested.
Regards,
Ronnie WestThanks for sharing this offset adjustment. I have been here since 2006 and didnt know about that feature here...LOL

Just adjusted for 2 hours

Just gave you your first THANKS for posting this question which was of benefit to me in reading Salmon's solution. Good Question! Also gave Salmon +1 for the solution

Also welcome to CH Update: "forum time" being UTC minus 7 hours puts CH in the US Mountain Time Zone, but I don't know what State. I see from Wikipedia that Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time. I cannot actually remember if I had to change it twice or only once this autumn.

Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 01, 2013, 12:20:47 AM

Update: "forum time" being UTC minus 7 hours puts CH in the US Mountain Time Zone, but I don't know what State.

No need to when the Forum handles it after being properly set.

Upgraded my one Windows 7 Home Premium SYSTEM from 32-bit to 64-bit, by adding another hard drive and moving SATA cable to it disconnecting the 32-bit old build. During the process after Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium install, I INSTALLED Firefox 25.0.1 and then went to youtube which then popped up stating that I need to install the FLASH Player. So I went to Adobe and clicked to download Flash and did so, and then I went to run the install and right as I clicked to run it I saw in the corner of my eye that it wanted to Install McAfee Antivirus as default check box.

I yelled out a word that cant be shared here and quickly killed the install of Adobe Flash and my wife asked what that was all about when I went into a panic mode to kill the install process. Told her that Adobe Flash now when installed wants to install McAfee by default and McAfee Sucks and will not be on any systems of mine.

I am use to seeing Yahoo Toolbar off to the left with a checkbox to refuse that as well as some other feature to opt out of the bundle install of, and DIDNT see that when telling it to install. This time however center top of the installer is this check box checked to install McAfee Antivirus.

Fortunately I didnt trash the registry of my clean build by killing the install in process, it hadn't gotten that far yet I guess and so I was able to launch it for a second time and this time uncheck the McAfee Antivirus default install and install the Flash Plugin as clean as possible.

I can UNDERSTAND other free software funded possibly by the number of users that accidentally install toolbars etc, which the toolbars control the users destinations while surfing to go to destinations that are prime for those who have paid say Yahoo for them to be #1 on the list of searches etc, and possibly report back with web habits with cookies etc, but to force antivirus installations by a company that is making good money with all their successful products ( Adobe ), is just stupid!

The is about Windows, but I put it here for now.
Recently I had an issue with this folder. I did not understand the problem. This can mean you will have trouble making a backup or removing a virus or Trojan in some cases. I have had the issue on my two computers.

Access to the System Volume Information folder

If the user does not have permission to use this folder, the Anita-Virus software and Backup software may not work effectively. Depends.

How would this make it DIFFICULT to make a backup, exactly?

Why would you backup the contents of the 'System Volume Information' Folder?

Anti-Virus cannot clean viruses it finds in the System Volume Information Folder. But that malware cannot do anything unless you restore that restore point.My backup program want to include the 'System Volume Information' an d I have yet to find a way to exclude it from the backup set. I have made a number of attempts and it fails because the SVI is huge and there is not enough backup space on my eternal drive. At this point, I am going to reach for a much larger drive and backup the whole thing and then restore it the hard way.It's actually a part of the System Restore feature found on all Windows computers. I don't think backup software is designed to import/export from that folder because they don't need to. The files/folders are already backed up so there is no need to backup the Windows backup.

System Volume Information Folder

Quote from: The Elder Geek.com

In all likelihood you'll never have any reason to access the System Volume Information folder other than to satisfy your own curiosity as to what it contains, but you never know; having that little piece of info tucked away may prove invaluable one day.

Regarding saving, relocating and then restoring Windows System Restore data to any different (including external) drive. Last night and today I researched saving/backing up and then restoring data for use at a later date, such in the event of a hard drive failure, etc. however from what I can gather it is UNFORTUNATELY not possible. This is because the individual system restore file data (System Volume Information) must be on the drive/partition it is protecting. Each drive/partition will have its own System Volume Information folder for recovery of that particular partition/drive. This is the way the Windows OS is designed, so you cannot move it to another drive and then restore them later.

And therefore the answer to your question is: No you cannot move Windows Restore POINTS from C to either another separate internal drive or an external drive.

Nothing like having to reset password to e-mail account and i have verified I am who I am and have the right to change the password and no matter how complex of a password I enter for the new password it still says its weak.

Tried different browsers ( IE, Firefox, Chrome ), tried different computers and same result.

YAHOO PASSWORD RESET FAIL....

Looking ONLINE I saw this: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130709223507AAcwRba

No help there... now on the phone on 30 min projected wait to talk with yahoo to fix this... OH JOY!!! BTW... my wife is getting annoyed by the minute with the wait music on speakerphone. Hopefully the cordless phone has enough battery strength to last 30 minutes of playing music while I wait

Hopefully no one ever has to go through this madness ... oh and Yahoo's phone number in case anyone does have to go through this in the future is: 1-800-730-2669




[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by ADMIN]After about 45 minute wait. Finally got connected with a cool guy at Yahoo who appeared to be in the USA possibly when calling at 1:50am which is impressive. I expected to get someone with broken english from ANOTHER part of the world as I have with all other large giant companies that outsource their customer support.

Other than the long wait with not so great on hold music, I give the support when i finally got in contact with this guy a 10 out of 10.

In the back of my mind when on hold for 45 minutes I was thinking I was going to get disconnected while on hold and get sent back to the BEGINNING of the incoming call pool as has happened many times in the PAST.

Built my old gaming system up with Windows 7 64-bit and didnt want to wipe the Win 7 32-bit install off of the 500GB SATA II drive. So I dug out an older SATA 150 drive I had that still worked and installed Windows 7 64-bit to that.

I have to say that it feels like I am on an old IDE HDD in this system now as far as load TIMES etc. So I am going to have to install a more modern hard drive into the system and then clone the Windows 7 64 bit install over to the larger, faster, newer drive instead of using this SATA 150 drive as a permanent install in this system.

I guess I have been spoiled by use of modern fast SATA II HDD and SSD's, to see this drive that use to be fast in its day is now painfully too slow for permanent use * Maybe I should put it in an external enclosure and use it as an EXT HDD in which SATA 150 is fine over USB 2.0. Back in 2005 this was a fast HDD for gaming with XP Pro 32-bit ..LOL

Here is the drive I installed ... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145072 Its so old that it has the SATA and P-Connector Power options with a label on it warning not to use both power connections at the same time. DaveLembke,
That is very old hardware.
Are you really old enough to have bought that new?Quote

DaveLembke,
That is very old hardware.
Are you really old enough to have bought that new?

I've depended on help from all you computer guru's for several YEARS now, and even managed to help out on occasion, so it kinda feels like you all are kinda part of my family, even VIA cyber contacts.
So I'd just like to announce a sad day for me in this world about my loving girlfriends father's death early this morning.
I met him in 2001 when I started dating his daughter, and I expected to be judged by a military General as 'not good enough for his beautiful daughter'. That did not happen. What did happen was that I met a MAN that became a very good friend, someone i could discuss life's complications with, and just plain be comfortable in his presence. Brigadier General John Harty has now moved on physically, but spiritually, he'll live in me HEART and mind until....
I'd appreciate if some of you acknowledge this loss for a second or two. If your in USA or any country that supports freedom, then this man is certainly a big reason why we have what we have.
I salute General Harty and I'll certainly miss my buddy in the future.
His daughters Facebook page is HERE.
As usual, thanks EVERYBODY!!!
Mike

Hi,

there is something that I am curious about. I have Yahoo Mail, and whenever you download a photo that is attached to an email, Yahoo has NORTON scan the photo for viruses. I can understand how a virus can be embedded in a text or SCRIPT but how can a virus be embedded in a photo?

ThanksA photo via email is just a file. Any file can have malware attached or embedded.Quote from: cinque8 on December 05, 2013, 10:15:18 AM

... whenever you download a photo that is attached to an email, Yahoo has Norton scan the photo for viruses.

Attackers kept with tradition to send out emails with malicious links imitating messages with links to breaking news. For example, the excitement around the birth of the royal baby was utilised in advertising printing services and advertising equipment. In honour of the event the company offered DISCOUNTS for roller stands.

Where does that name come from? PROBABLY not too MANY CHILDREN coming here

So I decided to swap roles of 2 drives in my older gaming system and now it feels snappy like a brand new system even though its a 5 year old dual-core.

It was previously configured to have the 40GB Corsair SATA II SSD just for games to run from for fast reads of game files etc, and the OS and everything else was on the 500GB Seagate SATA II 7200rpm HDD. I did an upgrade the other day to 64-bit and installed 64-bit to an older HDD that I later found out was only SATA 1.5 vs SATA 3.0 speed when it was running slower than the original 32-bit build I had prior.

Last night I swapped the SATA cables between the HDD and the SSD and installed Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit to the 40GB Corsair SATA II 3.0 SSD, and set up the older HDD that is SATA I 1.5 as the slave to hold game content. ( *Note: This older SATA 1.5 drive is going to get pulled and a 3.0 data rate drive is going to go in its places as soon as I free up a SATA II drive to use or just buy one to swap with. )

From clean build on this SSD after the POST slash screen as stop watched, it takes just 13 seconds to the logon prompt. I type in my password and the desktop and all services are loaded in 3.8 seconds.

The hardware is:

Biostar MCP6PB M2+ Motherboard AM2+
AMD Athlon 64 x2 2310Mhz 4450B CPU AM2
4GB Corsair DDR2-800Mhz XMS2 RAM
40GB Corsair SATA II SSD
164.7GB Hitachi Deskstar 7200rpm 8meg cache, *but only SATA 1.5
Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium

Prior to this new configuration, with the 500GB SATA II HDD as master boot drive and the 40GB SATA II SSD as slave drive on a 32-bit Windows 7 build I was looking at about 30 seconds before I got to the logon prompt after the POST slash screen, and about 15 seconds before the desktop was accessible to launch applications etc with the hard drive LED on solid during the process.

Then the latest attempt prior to this of Windows 7 64-bit onto a different drive was a let down when I didnt pay attention to the fact that this HDD for the new install was only a SATA 1.5 and not a SATA 3.0 data rate drive. So Windows 7 64-bit was running slower than the prior 32-bit Windows 7 install because of this data rate bottleneck.

Swapping roles of the HDD and SSD was a drastic improvement in performance not just with the system booting up, but navigation to the slower drive and launching programs and games off of this slower drive almost feel like this older slower SATA 1.5 drive is running better/faster as a slave vs an OS drive.

Lastly to avoid overworking the cells on the SSD with the swap space, I moved the swap space over to the HDD instead and then rebooted the system with no swap space on the SSD, but only using the older slower HDD for swap space, and to my surprise the boot time of Windows 7 64-bit to logon prompt after splash screen was only increased by 1.3 seconds at 14.3 seconds. I then logged on after resetting stop watch and it came to functional desktop after just 4.3 seconds. *Note windows didnt go through any other changes during this time and no other software added to affect services at start up etc.

So running with swap space on this older drive added just 1.3 seconds to the boot to logon and .5 seconds to functional desktop after password entered.

I then navigated to World of Warcraft on this HDD and launched it and it launched not as fast as it did when it use to be on the SSD prior, but fast enough to not be annoyingly laggy. Once the game was running, there was no big performance detractions to running it on the HDD vs the SSD. The only noticable difference is in the time it takes to load maps which use to be almost instantaneous with the SSD and now I see the loading bar for a second or so. So I can live with that.

I highly recommend upgrading to an SSD even if just a $35 40GB like I have for the benefits of it as the main drive in a desktop that can hold multiple drives; however because mine is just 40GB, Windows 7 64-bit consumed so far about 16.5GB of it so I am going to try to keep as much off of this SSD as possible to allow breathing space for Windows 7 64-bit to grow as more and more patches and service packs are thrown at it down the road, as well as in case I need to install software that doesnt give the option for an alternate installation path and its hard coded to C:\program files\.... which fortunately is a rare problem since most installers give the option to install to another drive path vs default install path.

If you can afford a larger than 40GB SSD, I'd definately go with larger, and if its a laptop I'd suggest 60GB or larger if a non gaming build, and 128GB or larger for a laptop that will hold games such as World of Warcraft that is currently around 27GB in installation capacity size. Also as is the case in my netbook the SSD I installed in that added almost an hour to the battery life per full charge. * I am now tempted to take the SSD out of that Intel Atom Netbook and put its HDD back into it and get better performance use out of that SSD in a system with a far more powerful CPU than just an Intel Atom which is definately holding back the potential of the SSD for speed according to how this 5 year old build sprung to life as if it was a brand new computer off the shelf vs 5 years old and only an older dual-core with 1meg cache shared between 2 cores at just 2.3Ghz.

Currently it is just Windows 7 64-bit after 133 updates and it still has to go through SP1. I RAN out of time to patch it FULLY before work, and am CURIOUS as to how large Windows 7 will be when fulling patched. But this 5 year old dual-core feels like a new computer in how fast it is to boot, logon, launch windows components, firefox etc, and the games launched from the slower HDD while slower are tolerable. As SSD's have been getting cheaper for larger capacity, I hope to do away with the slower HDD's in my gaming systems within the next 12 months or so. I saw a deal on a 128GB SATA III SSD for $80 the other day and I was very close to clicking BUY, but I held out because I still have to buy gifts for everyone else for christmas other than myself..LOL



YAY!! I have a Seagate 480GB SSD SITTING right in front of me, waiting to be installed. I both look forward to it and don't. It will be nice for the speed boost as well as a fresh install; but it will suck to get the appropriate data copied over as well as reinstall all the programs I use. Probably less of a pain than I think it is, though.Quote

I have a Seagate 480GB SSD sitting right in front of me, waiting to be installed. I both look forward to it and don't. It will be nice for the speed boost as well as a fresh install; but it will suck to get the appropriate data copied over as well as reinstall all the programs I use. Probably less of a pain than I think it is, though.

Have a GREAT one...!Happy Birthday GEEK Happy BirthdayI've been OFFLINE due to disruption in my Internet service from my ISP. Just got back online this MORNING.

So, a belated happy birthday wish to you, Geek.

as the title says I have just bought a hudl (pronounced huddle) 7" tablet from Tesco, I am trying to download my books from my kindle to the hudl.i have read that I need to download the kindle app to the hudl then register the kindle to the hudl.i hope you can understand all that because I don't'.i would really like some help if anybody can do so.Which model?
Is it the current 7 inch model outselling everything else?
Quote

Tesco is taking on the budget tablet market, as well as Amazon and GOOGLE, with the new 7in Hudl. Here's our Tesco Hudl tablet review. UPDATED: 15th November
Read more: http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/reviews/tablets/3470163/tesco-hudl-review/#ixzz2mUTi9jzC

Just curious, what's the purpose of doing this?
SD cards are not faster than SSDs.

Just curious, what's the purpose of doing this?

SD cards are not faster than SSDs.

My take on the entire thing is that it's just plain silly. All it is effectively doing is trying to avoid using the SSD on the premise that it will last longer, which is more or less common sense and could be said to apply to pretty much everything.

it's more or less common sense that if you use something less it will last longer.

Understood, trying it because Google suggested it couldn't be done - I like it!
Well done on getting it to work then, interesting stuff.

Hello,

I have a Sony VAIO VPC-EA2UFX-W purchases summer of 2010. About three weeks ago, my battery would only charge to 34% regardless of how long I have it PLUGGED in. When plugged in the AC Adapter is lit green, the LED light in the front of my laptop is lit red, and there is a battery icon on my taskbar noting that it is "plugged in, charging." FIGURING that my laptop battery was just deteriorating, I BOUGHT a new one through Encompass Parts; VPG-BPS22. When I put the new battery in, my laptop doesn't detect it. I called Sony and now that my laptop is out of warranty it will cost $99.99 for them to run an online diagnostic. Is there ANYTHING I can fix this problem?Let it charge completely overnite without using the laptop...
Post back with the results...
It may be the charger as well.Yesterday I left it plugged in with the new battery all day while I was out. The battery didn't charge at all.They can test the power pack at any PC shop...no need to shell out $99.00 to Sony...
Was the laptop dropped ? ?I have never dropped it or physically damaged it in any way. And other than this, I haven't had any ISSUES with it.

This might make for a cheap upgrade for someone with only the cost of shipping AMONG us and no money exchanged between us.

Anyone with a SYSTEM running on 2GB or less on DDR2-800Mhz who have the ability to upgrade to up to 4GB of RAM, and of which have this OLDER RAM that I need, but they no LONGER need it can benefit from this.

Here are the details:

I have 2GB ( 2 x 1GB 800Mhz DDR2 Corsair XMS2 ) High End Gaming Quality RAM that are clean condition like new and work trouble free and pass memtest86 as a matched pair. They are the same as linked here with heat spreaders... worth $53.98 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CNya2vivn7sCFaE9QgodDD0ANA&Item=N82E16820145153&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Desktop+Memory-_-N82E16820145153&ef_id=UZaSmgAAADBskCuL:20131208003112:s

I am willing to trade this 2GB of High-end Performance Gaming RAM for 4GB of older slower 533Mhz or 667Mhz DDR2 RAM any brand, but it must pass Memtest86 as a good matched GROUP of 4 sticks. It doesnt matter if you have mixed brands, and unknown brands, but they all have to be trouble free clean, and good working condition 1GB desktop computer sticks.

To keep shipping costs as cheap as possible this offer is going out to those in the USA first. International Shipping is costly for both of us and so I'd like to avoid it if possible. Also within the USA we are Both Protected from Mail Fraud so it is to the benefit of both of us to both be in the USA for this trade.

I could sell these and take the money and use that to buy used best value 4GB of 533Mhz DDR2 RAM, but I thought that maybe this could be a WIN WIN situation for both of us for anyone looking for 2GB of DDR2-800Mhz higher end RAM to upgrade their system at just the cost of shipping and trading unneeded older RAM.

Anyone interested in this deal of a even swap trade or have some 533Mhz or 667Mhz DDR2 RAM that are looking to sell cheap or give away; please contact me by private message here to keep our addresses private etc.

This RAM is going to be used to upgrade my wifes Core 2 Duo E6600 to 4GB of RAM if anyone takes advantage of this offer. Here is her motherboard, which its a shame that it wont operate on 800Mhz DDR2, because I have these sticks + a 2GB DDR2-800Mhz stick, but of which are not compatible with this motherboard. These sticks also will not down-clock to 667mhz to function as I tried that last night. But they work flawlessly in a motherboard designed for 800Mhz DDR2.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c00864946

Is this one of those words that are not really accurate like ROM or RAM? I once asked a tech and he said it's anything that's not RECORDED but many things they call streaming have been recorded. At least in my understanding. ROM and RAM, are not words; they are acronyms. Are you saying they are not "accurate"? Why?

Streaming media is multimedia that is constantly received by and presented to an end-user while being delivered by a provider.. Many devices such as PCs, phones, tablets, networked TVs, etc can play media that are located somewhere else accessible via a network or internet connection. Parts of the file may be stored locally (this is called buffering), but this is not the same as downloading a complete file and storing it for watching or hearing later. The computer or device at the other end sends the data in the file as a stream (that's why it's called streaming). Of course what is streamed has been recorded first (unless it's live). A well known streaming provider is Netflix.


Streaming content is found everywhere on the Internet. Youtube, assuming you're playing it as it FLOWS to your computer, scores of news sites with video content, online ads, even TV programs, and more. Of course, streaming media includes audio. Ever listened to music from pandora.com? It's great. ROM and RAM, are not words; they are acronyms. Are you saying they are not "accurate"? Why?

They don't exactly describe what they say like read only memory or random access memory. It's been so long now I forget the specifics but it's like random access is not totally random. Like kilobyte is not really a thousand bytes but 1024. They are words in some way because you use them as a word. I used to be a fanatic on grammer until I heard about Shakespeare. Quote from: gord99 on December 07, 2013, 02:32:47 PM

I forget the specifics but it's like random access is not totally random.

Like kilobyte is not really a thousand bytes but 1024.

ROM and RAM, are not words; they are acronyms. Are you saying they are not "accurate"? Why?

They don't exactly describe what they say like read only memory or random access memory. It's been so long now I forget the specifics but it's like random access is not totally random. Like kilobyte is not really a thousand bytes but 1024. They are words in some way because you use them as a word. I used to be a fanatic on grammer until I heard about Shakespeare.

So rom can still be the same as ram in some ways.

HI,

when I am away from home, I USE Airlink http://www.airlink101.com/ for my Internet CONNECTION. But when I am home I use a cable modem. The problem is that the Airlink software opens up automatically whether I am home or away. I went to msconfig/Startup, but it is not there. Although it is not really doing any harm, I prefer not to have unnecessary PROCESSES RUNNING in the background. How can I prevent Airlink from starting on bootup without UNINSTALLING the software?

Thanks!

I don't want to hangout.
I rust want to talk a little bit.
By mistake I removed Google talk.
Please help me find a download site that does not give me 7 variations of 'clean your PC now' in place of what I want.


According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Google_Talk, " In 2013, Google REPLACED Google Talk CLIENT software OFFERINGS with those of Google+ Hangouts." Looks like you may have to go with Google+ Hangouts.

I currently have an e-machines PC running Windows XP. I just got a new PC that is a Dell Inspiron running Windows 7.
I want to be ABLE to keep alot of the programs that I currently have. Is it possible to put all the things I want to keep on a flash drive, then put them on the new pc? Or put them on a separate hard drive then put them on the new pc? Thanks for any help.You can copy and transfer FILES, but all programs will need to be installed from scratch.Just write down all the programs you want to keep on a piece of paper, then re-download them on your new computer.depending on what you mean by 'programs' and what their SIZE is; most programs like Microsoft word, Skype, Daemon Tools or uTorrent can be re-downloaded in a matter of minutes. But to answer your question, yes, you can store them on a flash drive ASSUMING they fit. Just be sure to store the setup/installer files. If you want to keep the projects that you have been working on then you may also save those and CARRY them over on your flashdrive.

Hi,

I would like to download this video to my laptop, is there a client or web app that can help with this?

Thanks!

http://www.cbs.com/shows/late_show/video/GrYeaacJpzdMROVfBhK_Hmz3yc86Z9A4/the-late-show-11-27-2013/The link you gave is from CBS TV.
Most streaming Video sources give you PERMISSION to watch, but not record streaming video. Read the terms of use on the website.
Quote

a. Viral Distribution
We may expressly authorize you to redistribute certain Content for personal, non-commercial use. We will identify the Content that you are authorized to redistribute and describe ways you may redistribute it (such as via email, blogs, or embedded players, or by producing Mash-Ups). We may revoke this authorization at any time. If you redistribute Content, you must be able to edit or delete such publicly posted Content and you must edit or delete it promptly upon our request.

Thanks Geek!
BTW, do you still use Windows XP?

I believe my girlfriend SET up my computer and enabled remote access without my knowledge, copied PERSONAL files as well as into my email as we speak. Is there anyway I can prove she accessed my computer and file criminal charges as I never gave her permission and had my computer passworded when this access took place

Primarily, I was out of town and when I returned noticed all these strange things when I turned on my computer and when I checked event log SHOWS the following messages when I was GONE. "telephony service started" "remote access connection" "fast user switching service" as well as "window image acquisition". Is there any possibility of those events happening just by my computer being turned on or are those clear signs of intentional acts to invade my privacy, steal personal information.
Not even sure I want to touch this one and I don't really think anyone else here should either.

If you feel your rights have been violated in some WAY, you should contact a lawyer and/or local law enforcement and discuss the issue and local law with them, as laws on this can vary greatly from state to state and even more greatly country to country. I don't think anyone here is qualified to give you legal advice.Very good advice Quaxo....
And for all the super slueths that want to chime in here...leave it be.Sounds like a mouse virus...


just kidding, of course...

I was wondering why I keep getting DSN errors when I try to go to basic websites like msn, yahoo or even websites that I visited 5 minutes earlier. This is happening alot. I can visit msn and go to a different website and try to go back to msn only to get a dsn error message. Can anyone explain? Thanks!!!I think you mean DNS (Domain Name Server).

You do not specify but is this in IE only?

Have you tried these sites in Firefox for example. I am wondering if IE, that your IE has developed some glitch, tho not sure right now how to effect a cure.

Other THOUGHT is - your ISP - and whether there could be an aspect there even.UR right ...DNS error.... I don't use firefox so IM not sure... but this happens on any site i go to.... It will work fine the first time but when I try to return to the site I get errors... Like this one this morning ......

404 error Page can not be found, but I was just on the site not two minutes before.A repeat visit after a reboot - does this bring up a 404 or is it OK?

Seems maybe you are getting this within the same session when RETURNING to a site?.

Still no suggestions for cure but all INFO is potentially useful. What version of IE are you on? If IE7 are you tab browsing?

It could be useful to try Firefox - if you are willing to go grab it and install - it is well worth having anyways and many folks use it more than IE.

Other THING is your ISP, type of connection and then maybe even network settings etc. Also wonder how LONG this has gone on (slow onset, sudden?) - any additions like add-ons or new programs etc ....
really anything that might coincide with the troubles. And, what is your OS?
I have dsl connection.....ie 7..... this now happens all the time.... usually dsn error but now alot of 404 errors...... this is driving me crazy....i cant visit any sites now without this problemIn IE, go Tools>Internet Options>Advanced tab, click on "Reset" button.
Restart computer.

My Gateway LAPTOP has a broken on/off bottom. Is there any other way to turn the computer on? Please help.No.

You will need to SEND it in to get it repaired.

If it's under warranty, you can get it repaired for free.Although I'd suggest getting the laptop repaired. If you can see the spot to where the cable CONNECTING to the button is going on the interface / motherboard you could jumper it using a flat head screw driver and that would POWER it on. Basically COMPLETING the circuit is usually what the button does to turn the computer on/off.

Again not something I'd suggest doing for most users and/or for the life of the computer but something that could be done.Quote

Again not something I'd suggest doing for most users and/or for the life of the computer but something that could be done.

no worries on IOLO. I will handle that.Going back to your shutdown problem....
Do you have any USB devices connected to your computer?Just my mouse and keyboard. On occasions, I plug in my printer, but it's not plugged in now. You have a CD with 3000 drivers?
Is that the original drivers disk that came with your Compaq?
When installing drivers you have to make sure that they are written for your specific hardware components and operating system.
If I were you I would just do a clean install again and then install only the drivers that the XP CD didn't supply and make sure that they are XP drivers.
The FIRST thing I do, after a clean install, is check device manger. If I see any yellow QUESTION marks then I install the drivers for those devices and after that I go to Windows Update and get all of the updates that are available.I didn't use any drivers off that CD because I didn't know how to access them. I didn't have to install many drivers. Some were already there. The ones that I did have to install, I got from compaq. There are no yellow question marks nor exclamation points. I think that I will just have to do another install and see what that does for me. I appreciate all the help, guys. I am about to call it the night. Hope you all rest well. I will check the forum again tomorrow after classes, but will more than likely reinstall the OS. Goodnight and thanks to all who have given input. Couple more things to try...
1. While in normal MODE, before attempting shutdown, make sure all windows are closed. Then look at the icons is systray (next to the clock). Right click on first one, click "Exit". Try to shut down. If no joy, right click on next ICON, click "Exit". Try to shut down, and so on.
If the above doesn't work
2. Try to get (borrow) PS/2 keyboard, and mouse, and plug them in instead of your USB mouse, and keyboard. See, if it'll solve your shutdown problem.

I just install a new virus program. I use one of the programs to clean my hard drive and registry. Ever thing was find the first day. Now Two days later ever WED site I go on that use JavaScript will not work. Can any one help me please I can't even check my email and do work.
What is the new AV program? What did you use before?
Who did advice you to clean registry, nad for what reason? What program do you use to do this?
What browser, version?The program is Defender Pro. I didn't use anything before. I only had the computer for two months and it had come with three months free with Norton. No one advise me to clean it at the time it seemed like a good idea to do a clean slate. I don't know the browser. I will be happen with any advice you can give.
Defender Pro
First hit on Google: http://www.itsecurity.com/expert/20070509/defender-pro-from-*censored*/
Quote

I installed a copy of Defender Pro that I bought at Wal Mart. Ever since, my computer has been on the fritz. I have been blocked from my email. My Java and cookies are not working. I can no LONGER RUN programs I could run before.

I tried to uninstall the miserable thing but it will not completely go away. How do I get my computer back to normal?

i am a computer tech from the chicago area and i have NEVER seen good things come from the installation of this program

that being SAID i am currently working on a system which has defender pro anti-spy and i am DESPERATELY trying to get rid of it

the problem is that it doesn\’t apear in the add-remove section of windows control panel and i have scoured the net including defender pro\’s own website for the uninstaller to no avail.

if anyone here can please tell me where to get the uninstaller it would be greatly appreciated.

hi computer world,

I was given a free computer it is a older compaq but not too old, it is a perfect candidate for linux and web PAGE stuff but the first THING that i have to figure out is how to get it to work. When plugged in the power light flashes red, if i hold down the power button for a little while and the then press it again the light turns green for a second and the goes back to flashing red. I know this SOUNDS stupid and I promise i don't make a HABIT of it but i did kinda smack the comp and it fired up at one point but now I cant get it it start again just flash red.Have you removed a side panel to see what all is inside ? ?
With donated MACHINES i find it's best to first give it a good cleaning inside using compressed air and a soft brush and removing and re-seating every component and power connection...
Who knows how long it may have been sitting unused.

Good Luck.thanx for the suggestion i will give it a shot and report back

Hello

Im not sure if i should be posting here, but here goes! ???Im hoping someone maybe able to help me. Ive SCANNED a Letter onto paint and ive deleted all of the text i do not want. I want to use the letterhead and the footer for a new letter. When i go to print it out, its not coming out in the correct alignment, the Letterheader at the top is ok but the footer is a good INCH and a half up from the bottom. I have tried adjusting margins and PRINTING borderless but this is not working. Can anyone help? Many thanks
So you want to use a footer and header from a letter?

What exactly are you doing and what program(s)?Hi

Thanks for your reply! Ive been editing the document in Paint, by deleting all the text i dont want and just leaving the logo at the top and the footer at the bottom. It prints fine except it doesnt fill the page, and so doesnt look like a letterhead, as you can see where the scanned page ends at the bottom. Also the footer isnt in the right place, its not right at the bottom more like an inch up, and so this does not right. Ive adjusted margins to see if it prints better but i cant get the footer to come out at the right place.

Many thanksIf you are trying to print from Paint, it will print the size it is in the program.

This will be much easier if you Copy and Paste this picture from Paint to a program like MICROSOFT Word.
There, you can re-size and reposition the picture FILE and then print.Hi

I have tried to do this however it pastes as a separate letter on to the word page....if you know what i mean!
Could you possibly explain step by step how to do this and for it to print as an actual letter please, as i am quite new to all this!

Many thanks for your helpCopy the picture into the Word Document and increase its size by dragging the corners so it fits the page.

Does anyone know of a website that has FREE proxylists for in the USA that is ssl enabled and is anonymous? Even with a proxy SERVER you are not actually "anonymous".

ANYWAY, try FreeProxyServer.No I need a proxy list. I would PREFER an Elite one. From Google

But like I said,

Quote from: kpac on November 02, 2008, 08:31:57 AM

Even with a proxy server you are not actually "anonymous".

I have lost my data stored in my 2gb transend PENDRIVE as it is not accessable.i have tried to recover the data thru some professional companies but they state that as the memory chip is corrupted they cannot recover the same.I would like to know if their is any way i can recover this data from my pendrive.
I would also like to know i had used my pendrive to acess some xl file and i had made some modification to it and SAVED back to my pendrive before my pen drive gor spolied,it 7 days today i had accessed my files from pendrive from my computer is their anway this files get stored in temp memory of the computer and is it possible to recover the same.

Pls help me regd this.

Thank you

SumithNo to your last question.

As for getting into your Flash Drive, when you plug it in the computer go to My Computer and Right CLICK the drive.
Then go to Properties and tell us what format the Flash Drive currently is. (No, don't format it).MY PEN DRIVE IS NOT GETTING DETECTED IN THE MY COMPUTER SECTION.BUT WHEN I INSERT MY PEN DRIVE THE LIGHT GLOWS AND THE REMOVABLE DRIVE ICON APPEARS NESR THE CLOCK,BUT NOT DRIVE NAME IS VISIBLEBetter fix the CAPS LOCK key first.

Can you check if it works on another computer.Quote from: sumith

i have tried to recover the data thru some professional companies but they state that as the memory chip is corrupted they cannot recover the same.

their is no physical damage to the pen drive nor it is broken from anywhere

Is there a lock switch on it at all?

i have tried to recover the data thru some professional companies but they state that as the memory chip is corrupted they cannot recover the same.

I created a smart art hiercal chart I can go like a to b to c but I need to connect c to e. I tried to copy an paste the line with no luck. WORD 07We'll WAIT...This should help, Im TRYING to get it to connect like the ONE here Long link corrected...Any idea's? I still havent figured anything out on doing this.

I have a compaq evo w400 that I use as a Data Server to sort massive amounts of Data. I have a 320 GB connected externally, useing USB. When I turn it on know it comes up that it needs to format the drive. However, if I connect it to another machine it is able to see the drive with out any trouble. I tried reinstalling the OS so that it could reconize it again an a differnt USB to only have the same thing still happen.Last TIME I saw this it was 2 times on 2 seperate machines and 2 different reasons:

# 1 - A faulty USB port. Have you plugged this into a different port.

# 2 - A 2.5" external hard drive and the PC 5 volt side power supply is weak to where the USB port is not supplying enough milliamps of power for the drive to operate. This can be corrected by either using a heavier DUTY USB cable to power the device or one of the cables that connects to 2 USB ports for extra amperage to power the drive.What's on the external HDD ? ?

What server OS are you running ? ?

What file SYSTEM is used on the external ? ?

You've been here long enough to know the drill...posting as much info as you can about your ISSUE to arrive at a resolution.
what is hdd space, 500gb 1tb or such. This might help as os's have litmits of what amount of drive space they can see depending on the the server version.Sorry, forgot I made this :/ Running Server 08 DataCenter x86, NTFS, 320 GB Maxtor, tried a differnt port. I know its not a power issue cause, it runs on my laptop but, I want to be able to ACCESS it from any where.I got this out sorted out mostly. I got a terra drive an moved everything off on too it connecting the drive up to the on board IDE. Formated the drive an put all my shows on it too then

I hate haveing to get up from my desk when I have MULTIPLE THINGS going on its easier to handle through the network. HOWEVER, though I have it setup on my LAPTOP it wont connect useing the windows remote. Acer Windows 7 Home Premium

You do know there are a lot of video tutorials on Youtube, don't you?
I would look for some, but my Internet is unnaturally slow today...Read my first post. Probably lot of people CONNECTED or maleware.Ah, right. What are 01's?

Also, I don't really know what you could do about Malware...Quote from: squall_01 on OCTOBER 24, 2008, 10:07:08 AM

Read my first post. Probably lot of people connected or maleware.

ha ha, probably people connected then happens to me at times. Some programs can speed connectivty a little.

.... Does anybody know what phallic means?


note the extra e in Maleware.... Male-Ware? Get it now? COME ON!

Hello, I was trying to use some info I got from the forum and it involved using the f8 key to restart my pc in the safe mode. I shut it down hald a dozen times today and as far as I can tell, the f8 key never responded.

Any suggestions?
You need to keep tapping it, not holding it.I am sorry put tapping it repeatedly is what I did. I made sure it was deliberate and over several attempts at various speeds.

I have a wireless key board. Could that be the reason it doesn't work?Yes. I've had a wireless keyboard work before the operating system starts, but often, it does not. Do you have a wired keyboard you can plug in and try? I like to keep an extra around just for that reason.I doubt, but it wouldn't hurt to try wired keyboardWhat model keyboard are we talking about here?It is a logitech Y-RK49. I have tried switching the F-lock also to no avail. I just tried to restart in safe mode a few MINUTES ago and still nothing.

Any ideas??
Are you doing this immediately upon powering up ? ?
It has to be done way before you see the Windows splash screen or it will not work...As soon as I hit the POWER on button, I start hitting the f8 key.Is the keyboard working at all before Windows loads? (like... are you able to get into the BIOS?)

And is it functioning NORMALLY after you get into Windows?I remember time time about a year or so ago. I wanted to work on something and my son told me to use the f8 to get the pc into a safe mode. I didn't work then. It was someting minor I wanted to try and fix. Since it didn't work, I assumed it was just me not doing it right. so I didn't persue it. This time a made a real effort to get the f8 to work.Do you have a wired keyboard? If so, try that.I don't have one at the moment but I will pick one up and see how that goes.Everyone should have a PS2 keyboard...ESPECIALLY for times like this.It might just be that something about the wireless keyboard isn't ready at that time in the boot sequence. It all depends on the design on the keyboard. Perhaps the receiver isn't ready at that point or a connection hasn't been established between the keyboard and the receiver. Have you tried anything else at boot up? Like entering the BIOS?

Is anyone having trouble with small TEXT (print) when printing off the INTERNET?? It is sooo small I can hardly READ it. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Ernie in Va.Click here to FIND out what information I should ADD when submitting a question?If we need big text in internet browser means just Press Ctrl + scroll in mouse, it will shows big

try to copy from command prompt.

see if any other COMPUTERS can copy the file.

stop bumping your posts.i dont now how to do thad. I would if I could get answers right off.Some Reading including INSTRUCTIONS on the Copy command...I'll look at it latter just wish there was an easier way to do it.Anything that seems DIFFICULT simply has yet to be learned...

So, I wanted a laptop about 3 months ago. I had the money. I bought a HP DV9727cl. Amazing little thing, yet it barely ran Vista. So after running Vista for a few days, I decided to downgrade to XP. Didnt figure there were gonna be any problems, until I started looking for drivers. No wifi drivers for it or sound drivers that were meant for XP. HUGE problem there. So, I just get the Vista drivers and after many hours of trial and error force XP to accept them. Only problems - No sound control, its always at max. And wifi WORKS, it just doesnt light up blue when turned on. Its always orange. Dont really care about that though. But the sound problem really worried me. Mainly because there were other problems with it too, like when I PLUGGED in headphones it still put out sound through the speakers. Which meant whatever I listened to, everyone else listened to. That the quickplay buttons for volume control wouldn't work, because I was using a driver meant for Vista on an XP MACHINE. So, after long hours spent with my faithful companion named Google, I have found the answer to this problem. I have found while searching many other people with my same problem, and I'd hate for them to go through the crap that I did. To fix audio on most laptops that has been downgraded from Vista to XP all you need to do is install the Microsoft UAA driver. Im just so nice that I'll post the link here.

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/SOUND-CARD/OTHER-SOUNDCARDS/Microsoft-UAA-Bus-Driver-for-High-Definition-Audio.shtml

Then, download this and extract it to your desktop.

http://rapidshare.com/files/138162442/ConexantHDAudio-221_XP.zip

Now, go to device manager and CLICK on Conexant High Definition Audio. If that isnt there, then you may not have any drivers installed for sound yet. Just click on the plus next to sound and audio devices and find the one with a yellow question mark. Now, right click on it and choose install/update driver. Dont choose the option that lets it connect to windows update and select the driver. That wont work. Dont let it search for the driver to install - choose to select one from a list. Once you get to that point, click on have disk. Remember when you extracted those files to your desktop? Now, go to that directory and find the *.inf file. Let it install. And enjoy audio drivers that work the way they should. Just thought I'd share my story and help others who had the same problem as me


And sorry if this is in the wrong section, just wanted to share this

Quote

im 14 and started teaching myself c++ with books. i have no problem learning it and UNDERSTANDING the code and how it WORKS but it takes me a longer time to learn it.

How to see someone's photo by MSN EMAIL

1. copy their email

2. go to http://com.lullar.com

3. PASTE their email and click search

If they have MYSPACE facebook spaces.live hi5 etc. you will see