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I bought a second hand gateway performence 1300 computer ATXSTF manufactured in 2001. It only had 2 memory chips and a floppy drive. I added a hard drive and a cd-rom drive and a ethernet card. I doesnt have a place to plug in a monitor so i put a PCI stealth 3d 2000 video card in it.
It looks like its in good condition but when i turn it on it beeps three times and then nothing. the cd-rom drive lights up and so does a light on the motherboard and i can hear the hard drive working. any ideas on what might be wrong?Bad or the wrong type of RAM.Did you change the RAM at all?  You don't mention it in the earlier description of what you did. 

You might remove the RAM, start the computer, and see if you get the beeps -- you should -- it's the computer's way of screaming, "I have no RAM!"

You might reseat the RAM chips -- SOMETIMES that MAKES a difference.  You might put in ONE at a time, just to see if the system boots to one and not the other or both.

Hi guys, here are my SPECS:

ASUS P5KPL-CM Mobo (onboard GB PCI-e LAN)
E7400 Intel C2D
2GB DDR2 800 RAM

Ok so what happened was, I sold my PCI-e graphics card. I SWITCHED to onboard gfx for the time being. I booted into windows. installed the driver. After I installed the driver, I noted I could no longer access the internet. I checked the Device manager and What the?!?! no networking devices whatsoever!

I have tried restarting the machine lots of times, different cables, and even putting a PCI-e Card back in...

Whats going on with it?

BTW...board was bought at the beginning of this year....should I just try to get a new one?Just a thought... Maybe the Network Interface Card (N.I.C) has failed? I have the same problem where if I try to setup a network, it just won't work with any SETTINGS. Tried replacing the cable and that didn't work. It was usable before, but not anymore.

Do you have the diagnostics for the N.I.C? If yes, run a test and see if it works.

~Dairyman

EDIT -
If not malfunctioning, it could be turned off in the BIOS setup.I did a hardware upgrade recently, after which my on-board LAN port stopped working. I found clearing the CMOS and letting BIOS re-detect all the hardware cured the problem.

In my case, I had to move a link on the MB (located near the CMOS back-up button cell battery) to a different POSITION and leave for 60 secs with ALL mains power turned off before re-instating it to the normal position and powering up into BIOS and re-entering any customized configurations that you normally have.

Your motherboard manual should be able to advise the correct method of clearing CMOS memory in your case.I took the battery out and reset it...no luck

I sure hope it hasn't...it wont show in device manager

I'm using an old 10mb/s pci nic in the mean time...Did you install the motherboard drivers? You may have to reinstall them to get the NIC to start again.

I have run a asus board and the NIC wouldn't come up with out the MB drivers. It sounds like your having the same problem.

A brand new NIC card is 10 or 15 Bucks....
Spring for it already... Quote from: Spoiler on May 12, 2009, 06:13:44 AM

Did you install the motherboard drivers? You may have to reinstall them to get the NIC to start again.

I have run a asus board and the NIC wouldn't come up with out the MB drivers. It sounds like your having the same problem.

Hi,

I have a computer built out of old parts that I use for retro computer gaming. The sound card is a non-PLUG and play ISA Sound Blaster AWE32. However, I am having a few problems with it, and having GROWN up mostly with PCI and PnP I'm unsure as to how to solve them:

• CD audio won't play. There is currently a CD audio cable running from one of the drives to the small CD-Audio socket on the card (it doesn't have an IDE audio socket, though). I'll have to check the other end to see if it's properly connected, but I tried switching to another existing cable (running to a different drive) with no luck.
• Any DOS program that attempts to access the AWE32 in pure DOS mode freezes. As far as I know, the card is set up for the defaults (port 220, IRQ 5, DMA 1), the BIOS is set to Plug and Play OS (disable this?) and the IRQ and DMA are both reserved for Legacy ISA. Attempting to autodetect the card in Tomb Raider setup returns different, weird IRQ/DMA settings that also freeze. Everything works under Windows 98.
• On Windows, the gameport doesn't seem to be working properly, though that could just be a problem with trying to use my SIDEWINDER gamepad with DOS games. (Depending on the game, some to most of the buttons won't work, and occasionally the D-pad won't work either.) Any advice on this matter, or advice as to more old game-compatible gamepads, would also be greatly appreciated.

Hi EVERYBODY. I have a problem with my PC. It is as follows:
My PC is a Compaq SFF and I use XpSP2. I initially had a CD drive but later I changed to a DVD-RAM. After sometime I noticed that when i booted, I could not see the DVD-RAM drive in "my computer". So I tried to format and reload but could not boot from CD. Then I changed to CD drive and formatted and reloaded everything. after that I changed to DVD-RAM but the same problem appeared - boots after a long time and DVD-RAM not showing (I could see the DVD-RAM in the BIOS). So I switched back to CD-ROM drive and it is OK now.
Please tell how can I use my DVD-RAM again.. dnahc,I shall assume that the 2 optical devices you are referring to are both IDE? 1st i suspect where you say "DVD RAM" you actually mean "DVD ROM" unless you mean "DVD-RW". If you change the device in the computer and remove the one that was there you NEED to ensure that the new device is properly SET to the correct pin setting on the rear of the drive. IE: "master" in this case if it is the only one. If you decided to install both the CD and the DVD one would need to be designated "master" and the other "slave". Also if you do install both on the same ide cable there is a proper placement in sequence that is required. You may need to make changes in your BIOS settings as well depending on what you are doing. When you GO to device manager in hardare in "my computer" are there any yellow question marks or asterisks beside the optical drives? At boot up is the DVD drive listed? do you have an option to try this DVD drive in another computer to verify that it does work? If you can do that remember to set the pins to slave if it is a 2ND optical device. What ide cable are you installing it on? Are you trying to share the cable that is used by a HDD? truenorth

When installing the OS, it asks how you want the hard drive formatted then partitioned, it would get through that part; once it began to copy the files it would then shut down. Now,the PC won't even stay on to install the OS. It gets to the SPLASH screen then the whole thing shuts down and doesn't restart unless I push the power button. I think its the motherboard.

Is this an official MS XP CD ? ? Quote from: patio on May 27, 2009, 08:10:39 AM

Is this an official MS XP CD ? ?

Its an official CD. The one we got with the machine

Asus P5PE-VM

This has been bothering me for awhile and i just have to find an answer. sorry for the long paragraph.

It was just a few months ago that i decided to buy a nVidia GeForce 9600 GT for my desktop PC which is a Gateway, Model GT4010, with 990 mb of ram and a amd athlon 3500 2.2~GHz with onboard graphics. i purchased it from circuit city and i asked the technician before buying if it was compatible and he said it was. so i take it home and it instructs me in the manual to disable onboard graphics via device manager. so after that i shutdown and connect the card to the x16 slot and connect the cables to the psu and to the motherboard. i then boot up the computer and attempt to install the drivers with the cd, but the computer did not detect the card. and this is where i believe i made a mistake, i stupidly go to the device manager and disable the rollback drivers so that no display comes up the next time i boot. after that i take my pc up to circuit city for them to install it. when they attempted to boot it up no display appeared after the windows xp logo. they notify me that i need a bigger power supply unit and so i have them install a 500 watt psu. the problem still was not solved and they eventually tell me that it must be the motherboard, and that there is nothing i can do. so my big question is, if there is not a enough power to supply the card, will the computer still detect it? and if anyone can please give me some advice. im trying to decide if i can fix this problem or should just get a NEW pc.It is hard to follow what you did.
Question.
Can you know get into the BIOS without the new card installed?
It should NOT be necessary to disable the on board video.

Can you know boot the computer up in SAFE mode without the new card installed?

About you question. No, you machine should not need a bigger power supply unless you have added more that just the video card. Or the PSU is going bad.

I suspect, kind of a gut felling, that you did not do the installation exactly the way the manufacturing said. This is on of these times where you have to read the instructions first. I hate that! When are they going to lean that we never do that anymore.!

What does it say in the manual? What did you skip over? Hardly  necessary to remove the drivers for the old card, Just disable them. Or install the standard VGA generic drivers.

Do you have the system now back to where is was before the problem?
i went by the instructions exactly the way told too, im too scared to try it myself :)i can get into the bios and boot in safe mode without the new card. the computer is now back to the way it was before i added the card.  i no longer have the 500 watt psu but my original 300 which i found out is not enough to supply the card.  the technicians never understood why the screen went black after the windows logo. they just said it must be a faulty motherboard. but what i want to know is had i not disabled the microsoft backup drivers and then added the new psu, would the computer detect it? i just want to find out if it i REALLY have a faulty motherboard or it was my screwup.You motherboard is good. Or mostly good.
Can you do this?
Place Video card in the right slot.
Disconnect the CD ROM. (To save power.)
Plug monitor into the output of the video card.
Make sure card is in place. poser up and try to get into the BIOS.
If you can get into the BIOS with the new Video card, you are mostly good.
Yes, a 300 watt supply is on the low side for many graphics cards.
What is the rated power consumption of your new card?

Some Graphics cards may need about 90 watts. Your Motherboard and CPU and fan might require about 60 watts, give or take. Each drive about 20 watts. GB memory stick about 10 watts each, but this can vary a whole lot. Keyboard and mouse almost nothing. Maybe 5 watts. It would seem that 300 Watts would work, but if any component in your  system is drawing more current that it should, you could hit the 300 watt limit.  Also, power supplies are often rated with room temp of 70 F and free air flow. Which is not like the inside of your box The temp in the box can rise to 80F and air flow cut in half by cables and confined space.

Now then, after after saying that, I still do not think it was the powers supply itself. It is very possible the Graphics card was bad out of the box. If you really were card full and followed instructions it should have worked. The card does not draw a lot of power until you get into fast 3-D action, like a game.

I just assumed you did not flow instructions just because I seldom do.


here is a some info on the 9600:

Thermal and Power Specs:
Maximum GPU Tempurature (in C)    105    105
Maximum Graphics Card Power (W)    59    96
Minimum System Power Requirement (W)    300    400
Supplementary Power Connectors    &nsbp    6-pin

you may be right it could have been a faulty card. say if the x16 slot on my motherboard was faulty, wouldnt i be able to find out in the device manager? so far no faulty hardware errors. so would it be reasonable to try a new card to see if it would work and then consider a new psu? Your card is a PCi-Express card which is easy to install. Install it like a PCI card. If you never installed a PCI card, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUN8-_XSIKE which is from Youtube.ok im back this time with a GeForce 9800 GT. This one requires a minimum of 400 watts and it draws about 105 watts. i will get my new 450 watt power supply in two days, and then i will attempt to install it(the card). i noticed this one doesnt have a thing where you connect it directly to the power supply so im guessing it receives it directly from the motherboard. i will post back in two days whatever happens. ok i have installed a 450 watt power supply and i have now installed the video card and the computer is not DETECTING it, i tried running the CD and it hasnt detected the card.also the fan on the card is working. i did not have to connect any extra power connectors. Quote from: Lizard1380 on May 28, 2009, 07:40:31 PM

also the fan on the card is working. i did not have to connect any extra power connectors.

Hello there hope somebody can help i have a laptop that over heats i have taken it apart and the fan works fine cleaned the dust it last about a hour then BLUE screen of death leave for a day try again works fine for a hour dies again it gets so hot it burns your legs is there anything i can do would changing the heatsink getting new paste WORK..?When you are using the laptop do you have it sitting on your legs. Maybe you should try getting a laptop "board". My laptop recently died and i am pretty sure it was because my wife never let it get proper air flow, due to it sitting on her legs.

Anyway. I would say try to get a flat surface. There are laptop "stands" that are mesh metal on the TOP to allow maximum air flow. Newegg had a nice one a while back.

HoFLI agree.  I GOT a laptop cooler I will sell for $50 if interested.  But just set it on the table or even put a book on your lap then put the laptop on your lap

Okay, a while back the lights flickered (enough to get the UPS to beep) and for some REASON my computer won't start at all.  The UPS kept all the other stuff powered.  So I know it's not it or the outlet it's plugged into.  So, do I need to REPLACE the POWER supply?  Or is it possible SOMETHING else is wrong?  Thanks!  Power supply yeah, just replace itTake the UPS completely out of the equation and test it that WAY before you go and buy a new PSU...
Most UPS's have a reset switch as well...so if it took a hit you may want to try that.

I'm inheriting a computer that was pretty sweet back in the day (that being about 4 years ago).  Basic specs:

Dell Dimension XPS 9150
Pentium D  3.2 dual core
4GB RAM
GeForce 7800GTX  256MB
Dual 500GB HDD

My question:  I'm looking to use this a somewhat decent gaming machine.  Would upgrading the video card to a Radeon HD4850 or 4870 be worth the $300 cost ($200 for the card, $100 for a better PSU) ? 

Thanks as always, gang.Nice to see you again, Hopester.
The 7800GTX was a great card in its day, now it is a little dates but will run most games out there, just not at maximum settings.
With that CPU I'm not sure a top-end card would be justified.
What's the power supply in there at the minute?
Also, what sort of games are you looking to play?
It might be worth upgrading the processor to a Core 2 Duo if the board supports it, it'd run a lot cooler and even a lower-end Core 2 would be faster.The power supply is only 375w so I'd definitely need to yank it up to at least 500 if I changed the card to one I mentioned.  As for games, I kind of have my eye on the Sims 3.

Of course I could always just fire everything up and PROBABLY answer the question myself, but this gave me an excuse to stop by.

Edit:  Nice to see you too, Calum. Hope all is well.
The 7800GTX should be able to handle the Sims 3.
With a 375W unit, you could LOOK at a 4670, which should give you better performance and should also use less power.   I say "should" because I can't find any direct comparisons due to the age of the 7800GTX, so this is more of an educated guess without further research.
I didn't see it was a Dell in the first POST ... I doubt you'd be able to swap the processor for a Core 2 model so you'll be stuck with that processor (not that it's a huge problem, but it's very power-hungry for the performance compared to newer CPUs).
If you wanted to spend more and get the performance, by all means go for a quality PSU and jack up the video, the HD4770, 4830 or 4850 offer great price/performance ratios, as do Nvidia's 9800GT and GTS250.
A high-end card though will be held back by the processor - still, it's a solid system, and it's still upgradeable (at some point you may want to change the board so you can upgrade the CPU, but of course you'd be able to keep the other components).HD 4670 is ~ 10 or so watts greater than a 9500GT, that's what I have found out.... and both are ok with a 300 watt psu given you got decent 12 v rails and you're not piling up on disk drives, hard drives or other computer PARTS needing power.

I have 2 dvd drives and a 9500GT and a hard drive and its all running on a 300W psu with 19A on the 12V rail which is supplied by HP. I would say get at least a 500W PSU. I currently am experimenting with two HD 3870's in crossfire and i already have a raptor and 2 other drives. I was having issues with it so i got an 850W PSU and my issues went away. So i would say "the more power, the better...for the performance"  With your computer, you would need a proprietary psu, and with another xps I saw, it might have 2 24pin connectors too which is really weird.  But mabye not.If you have a Frys Electronics near you, i would got there and get and Antec PSU. Those seem to fit in the Dells that i have upgraded. You have to kind of add long screws or something funny like that, but you can get it to fit. The reason why i say Frys is because if it doesn't work you can bring it back with no QUESTIONS asked. Just  use your debit/credit card. Quote from: computeruler on May 29, 2009, 05:45:16 PM

With your computer, you would need a proprietary psu, and with another xps I saw, it might have 2 24pin connectors too which is really weird.  But mabye not.

I would say get at least a 500W PSU. I currently am experimenting with two HD 3870's in crossfire and i already have a raptor and 2 other drives. I was having issues with it so i got an 850W PSU and my issues went away. So i would say "the more power, the better...for the performance" 

I recently put together a comp for my mom's business using old parts.  After setting up the computer for the first time I noticed that it would not boot up even though the motherboard, cpu, memory, hdd and PSU were all fine (atleast I THINK).  The PSU would send power to the motherboard (mb light would TURN on) but the computer would not start, no fans would whir.  I finally figured out that I would have to clear the cmos memory by taking out the BATTERY for 20-30 secs then putting it back in.  Then the computer would power up fine.  But I have to do this every time there is ANY change in the hardware like adding a soundcard, moving any wires, even pulling out the power cord from the psu.  What is going on!?Well if your saying that this could be the cause of your problem. It could be nice if you would buy a new CMOS battery right?

Recently I had gotten a virus, and the only conclusion I could think of was to completely restart the computer; deleting everything, and having a back-up hard drive. Well, after GETTING back with my computer, and re-installing everything, my disc drive no longer was recognized, so if I were to put in a CD it would sound like it was loading, but it wouldn't show up as being loaded on my computer. I then LOOKED on My Computer file, and noticed that my disc drive didn't even show up as being there.
I've tried finding it on installed hardware, which it wasn't. I have no idea what to do now.  What make/model PC is it?It's a Toshiba. Model Satellite A205. LOL how did I guess?

I had this same problem a few weeks ago - my CD/DVD drive worked when it wanted to, basically. I checked online in every possible site available, and found out that it is a common problem with Toshiba laptops. I called Toshiba, they suggested things that I had already tried, and eventually came to the conclusion that a reformat was probably the only option to get rid of it.

So, here are a few things that I did to try and solve it, before even THINKING of a reformat:

Do you have iTunes installed?
If yes,
- Press the Start button and in the SEARCH bar at the bottom of the Start menu type "regedit”. Press enter.
- Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E965-E325-11­CE-BFC1-08002BE10318} (The first value of this entry should read "CD/DVD Drive").

Now once you have found the CD/DVD drives key in the right panel there should be "UpperFilter" and "LowerFilter". Right click each of these and select Delete.. Once you have deleted these close the registry editor and re-boot. Please, if you are unsure about anything, ask before doing it.

Did you try a system restore?

If neither of those options solve the problem, then...
- Start in safe mode using the F8 key method.
- Go to Start search. Type "device manager" and press enter.
- Check under CD/DVD Drives for SOMETHING starting with "TssT CORP".
- If you find it, right click and select Uninstall.
- Once uninstalled, reboot the PC into normal mode.
- When finished starting up, the computer should automatically install the device drivers for the disc drive again.


Any luck?Yes! Thank you so much for your help!  Great. I assume the problem is fixed?

Help.my computer freezes when enable my pci soundcard.the problem is my builtin soundcard does not work anymore.so i have no choice but to use the soundcard that i bought.this pc is running on petium 4 1.6 ghz.w/ 256 mb ddr ram. 40g hd.my psu is 300watts.my pc freezes when i play games w/ my soundcard enable.but works fine.if the soundcard is disable.and also,my pc always boot w/ wrong cmos settings,even if i had set it to default on 1st boot.and reset.it.it boots well.but after i TURN it off for a long time.and pull the power plug out of the power outlet.the problem w/ the cmos return,what should i do?please helpCan you give us a list of the parts that make up your machine?

Also what OS?
Quote from: Spoiler on MAY 28, 2009, 11:18:17 AM

Can you give us a list of the parts that make up your machine?

Its not in my computer and been searching AROUND the internet for a long time now.

I read on the internet i must GO to Computer Management,then disk management and then find and right click the drive,which i did.But i cannot select format.No OPTION can be selected except help,which is no help at all.

I tried seagate diskwizard and created a drive.It looked like it was working then i tried to put video FILE on it and windows said error putting files on.

Using windows xp
Ok mate you have not said yet what the problem is exactly. Except (it's not working)

There are many many versions of not working!Test the drive on another computer.

Hey everyone, I was hoping you guys can help me out. I'm looking to buy a new desktop and I'm not that good at comparing computers. I just want to get the best one I can with the budget in in which is $500 and has to be from Walmart. I will be using this computer to surf the web and watch videos. Also I will be producing music on it too. I just want one that will last me a long time and be fast. My best options I see are 1.    http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/HP-Pavilion-500-223w-Desktop-PC-with-Intel-Core-i3-4130-Processor-8GB-Memory-1TB-Hard-Drive-and-Windows-8.1-Monitor-Not-Included/34083880?type=search            And 2.   http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/Acer-Black-Aspire-TC-ATC-605-UW2U-Desktop-PC-with-Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-8GB-Memory-1TB-Hard-Drive-and-Windows-7-Home-Premium-Monitor-Not-Inc/39405639?type=search      Could you guys help me out???I trust HP more than I do Acer.

The i3 is weaker processing power than the i5

With these systems you would get a better quality HP Core i3 or a lower quality Acer Core i5 

For the fact that you are not GAMING the Core i3 should be good for 3 to 5 years of use and possibly longer. I also use audio software and generally they dont need a powerful system to function. The only difference in say an older system running one of my audio editing/mixing/conversion programs and a newer system is that the newer system would process it faster into an MP3 while the older computer would take longer to process to create the MP3 file.

If you were doing video editing and encoding then you would definitely want more processing power than a Core i3 probably. This is not to say that the Core i 3 cant handle it, since I know for a fact that it can because I have edited and encoded video files on much older processors, it is pretty much the same as the audio projects where the more powerful the CPU the faster it is to complete creation of an encoded end product file from a project etc.Thanks for the fast reply! I just don't know much about computers. The main thing I'm worried about is the speed of the computer like surfing the web and being able to watch Netflix without it taking forever to load or rebuffin. With the music I don't mind if it takes a little longer to process to MP3. I just want the best bang for my buck since I'm stuck having to buy from Walmart Only other difference I didnt state prior is that the Acer comes with Windows 7 while the HP is Windows 8.1. So if you have an OS preference that is also something to consider.

HP usually uses ASUS and INTEL for their motherboards which are good quality board makers.

Acer on the other HAND makes systems that cut corners in quality to throw a faster CPU at the model to try to make the sale in people who only look at specs and dont consider quality. The desktop systems that are Acer that I have had to deal with in the recent past were ECS motherboards which are not very well trusted boards. Some of these boards may last years while others are bad batches and fail due to lower quality components used to make the boards cheap. in addition to this depending on what board they are using you might find out that it doesnt have a PCI Express slot for example and so it cant be upgraded as was the case with some eMachine systems that only had Integrated video and no PCI Express slots. The funny part with these boards is that the motherboard had a location for the connector to be, but they must have specifically ordered the boards to not have the PCI Express slots to reduce COST and make the system into a throw away when the Integrated video someday is no longer able to handle the rendering etc.

As FAR as netflix etc, as long as you have a good fast internet connection of greater than 5mb download and 1 mb upload and no one else uses the internet connection at the same time, you should be all set.I was wondering about acer because I've heard  good things but also bad things about them, and with hp I only have heard good stuff. I was just wondering because I saw that the acer has the Intel I5 processor and the hp only has the I3. Like i said I'm not too familiar with computers and don't know if that's a huge difference or not. I usually take pretty good care of my computers, I've had a sell laptop for 8 years and it still runs pretty good. The Acer is a gamble ... yes they do have some systems that are trouble free, but they also are known for systems with problems in quality that dont last as well.

The HP is the best bet if your not willing to gamble and willing to go with Core i3 instead of the more powerful Core i5

The problem here is that the Acer could be the most well cared for computer and yet could still die prematurely but outside of warranty terms to where your out all that money or faced with getting it repaired such as motherboard or power supply replacement. If you were looking at both systems from a consumer report standpoint the  HP would likely be a white circle and the Acer would be a black circle to show contrast in the difference between the brands. White circle being better than a black circle with 1/2 shaded circle being in between etc.

 I appreciate all the help! I'm just having a hard time picking between them. Can you tell me why the i5 is better than the i3? Is it a lot better or just somewhat better performance? Do you personally think it's worth the risk?http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i5-4460-vs-Intel-Core-i3-4130

Link above shows the performance difference and the difference is pretty significant between them. From the system that your upgrading from the Core i3 is likely way faster. I feel it would be an easier choice for you if they were both Core i3's or both Core i5's, but the Acer is more powerful solely because of the Core i5 processor.

It still kind of comes down to if your willing to gamble with low quality parts and maximum speed or good quality parts and less processing performance.

With the Acer if you have a failure with it that is outside of warranty terms your most likely looking at a $50 power supply if you install it yourself or a $60-$100 motherboard to replace a blown board. The CPU and RAM would probably move over to a replacement board without any troubles.
So if your willing to gamble and able to fix the computer troubles on your own then the Acer is a valid choice. However if the computer would have to go to a computer shop and get repaired your cost of repair can easily exceed the worth of the computer. For motherboard replacements and full rebuilds if using a different motherboard than original, it usually costs the clients around $120 in labor + parts so if the board was $100, then its $220 to fix a $500 computer. Power supply replacements are generally $40 for 1 hour labor + parts cost such as a $50 power supply so for $90 they have their computer back.

NOTE: This is NOT to advertise or solicit my services, its just to give you an idea of what it may cost if you had to have someone service the computer outside of warranty. Also while I charge $40 an hour, I have seen some computer repair shops charge as much as $90 an hour. But because I dont have any overhead there is no need to rip people off and so $40 is honest and my clients are happy with that. 

 Go with the Acer , easier to fix in the future as in motherboard upgrades and power supplies . HP will be limited to HP parts and you will always have a mediocre machine while in a year or two you could upgrade the Acer for less than $200 and have a competent machine that would last and be relevant { i5 cpu will be able to run software well for a good number of years to come }Why do you think you must buy from Walmart to stay within $500 budget?  You don't.  Other retailers, OfficeMax, Staples, Best Buy, HH Greg, etc. often run special sales which offer systems at very competitive prices.  You could also buy from an online-only seller such as newegg.com.  Quote from: kbit on January 05, 2015, 11:18:51 PM

HP will be limited to HP parts

Dear expert when iam TRYING to log in my gmail that time this type of message is showing (Account access temporarily disabled) please help me
Thanks
screen short is attached

[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space]Contact google as it STATES in the ERROR message...

Hello there a friend of mine just came to my house to "Lan" and he PLUGGED his pc like he does usually and now it's not opening. What i mean by not "opening" is that it opens but his keyboard/screens and mouse are not working. (you can still see the lights and whatnot that indicates that the COMPUTER is in fact RUNNING). I also forgot to mention that i live in Quebec/Canada and it is winter here and is very cold(the computer was safely transported in the car without any bumps or anything but the time it was outside it was fairly cold(only stayed out for like 1 minute if that though)

He has W7 OS not sure what his specs are though but he bought it 1 and a half year ago.

Please help

PS : Sorry if this the wrong thread i wasn't sure where to post this.I'll take a guess here.  If the computer got cold enough on the inside to cause some condensation of moisture when it was brought inside, that could cause problems when plugging in and powering on if that was done too soon after bringing the computer inside to allow the computer to warm to room temperature on the inside and allow time for any moisture to evaporate. 

This problem can be avoided by giving the computer time to warm to room temperature and for any condensed moisture to evaporate BEFORE plugging in and powering on.  Warming the computer could be sped up by use of a space heater or hair dryer to blow warm air directly at it. 

Whether permanent damage was sustained will be confirmed by whether the computer returns to normal operation after it has had time for any moisture inside to evaporate.

I have an issue where my screen is turning blue (NOT THE BLUE SCREEN of DEATH) when I am using the computer. It LOOKS like a desktop screen without icons, taskbar, no curser. I am not able to do anything after this. It does not matter what I'm doing. Could be logging in after it's asleep, burning a cd/dvd, or running a program. Up to a week ago it was working just fine. What might this be?1) What is new or different since the last time EVERYTHING worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) Have you run full system scans with both your AV and MalwareBytes?

3) Does the same thing happen in safe mode?Sounds like a virus INFESTATION. You should report to the spyware section.

Either that or your shell was corrupted (Most likely due to). Make sure HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WinLogon\Shell  has "explorer.exe" as a value.According to the first post, it isn't BOOTING to a blank screen, it's turning blank after a period of use. And if indeed that's the case, it has nothing to do with the shell being corrupted.I have run a system scan with pctools ANTI software. There have been not new additions to hardware or programs. I will check in safe mode when I get home. If safe mode does work what do you think it is?Virus?I don't think anything at this point - just going through standard troubleshooting steps to try to find out.Any more information? OS? computer make/model?

Hi everyone,
Just posting here to try get some advice, so thanks in advance
Well my laptop is over 5 years old, and i need to buy a new COMPUTER STAT! I work from home as a storyboard artist/animator and basically need a computer that will have the power to do what is expected in my job.
I use programmes
Photoshop
Illustrator
Flash
Premier
After Effects
3d max

I found this computer on the komplett site, and it seems pretty good to me, although im not 100% sure about graphic cards, so if that isnt up to scratch theres no point getting this computer.

http://www.komplett.ie/Komplett/product/computers/80005751/medion_p5375e_i7_3770_8gb_1_5tb_hd7450/details.aspx

(Oh and btw im done with laptops)

Please tell me what you think, or if i need better HIGH powered components...
Thanks in advance GUYS I am not qualified to answer your basic question re the best possible computer for creating animation. Howevr doing some researh on your behalf i came aross this article and thought it might help you (even beyond the computer choice).
http://www.awn.com/mag/issue4.05/4.05pages/amroncgi.php3
Here is another link which deals (hopefully from experience and knowledge) with more specifics in regards to the hardware side of things.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100417205857AAqi5Fk ,truenorthThat computer is more than enough to do the things you're looking at. It's a lot better than the computer I'm working on at the moment and I use most, if not all, of the same programs, several running at the same time.

Keep in mind that the computer you linked comes with a 64-bit operating systems. I don't know what your old laptop had, but you'll want to make sure any programs you're going to install will run on a 64-bit machine or have a 64-bit version available.

Anyway, I don't expect you'll have any serious problems.My laptop runs on 32 bit operating system, so ALOT of the adobe programmes DONT work LIKE premiere and after effects..
But thanks for the links, just when im spending this type of money i want the computer to have at least a few years life!All of those Adobe Apps have 32 bit versions.

Does a normal SIZE ATX PSU  fit in a HP Compaq DC7100 Convertible Minitower? I don't know the EXACT dimensions of that case.http://www.pacificgeek.com/productimages/xl/DC7100CMT-P430-MAR-3R-3.jpg
http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?id=994525 
It will.Thanks

First of all SORRY SORRY for my english...i hope you understand


I put headphones in the plug it and then took them about 7-8 times because the edge is awry

Then suddenly the sound don't work again...youtube , itunes , i can't hear anything

WHAT TO DO??? I make a few restarts , System Restore and nothing happens PLZ help


Sorry for my english again...I'm from GREECE...peace Quote

I put headphones in the plug it and then took them about 7-8 times because the edge is awry

NOOO!!! I can't understand why....may computer things that headphones are still in??

If i get a USB sound card ?

In my Windows Server 2003 The MySql Services AUTOMATICALLY stops. MySql version 5.5.11 . Why it stops automatically.  In my LAN we use local web application . This application run based on Mysql , When its services stops the application can not run .  How to avoid this problem.Check the error log.
Quote

C:\> "C:\Program Files\MySQL\MySQL Server 5.1\bin\mysqld"
          --install MySQL --defaults-FILE=C:\my-opts.cnf
Here, the default service name (MySQL) is given after the --install option. If no --defaults-file option had been given, this COMMAND would have the effect of causing the server to read the [mysqld] group from the standard option files. However, because the --defaults-file option is present, the server reads options from the [mysqld] option group, and only from the named file.

You can also specify options as Start parameters in the Windows Services utility before you start the MySQL service.

Once a MySQL server has been installed as a service, Windows starts the service automatically whenever Windows starts. The service also can be STARTED immediately from the Services utility, or by using a NET START MySQL command. The NET command is not case sensitive.

When run as a service, mysqld has no access to a console WINDOW, so no messages can be seen there. If mysqld does not start, check the error log to see whether the server wrote any messages there to indicate the cause of the problem. The error log is located in the MySQL data directory (for example, C:\Program Files\MySQL\MySQL Server 5.1\data). It is the file with a suffix of .err.

When a MySQL server has been installed as a service, and the service is running, Windows stops the service automatically when Windows shuts down. The server also can be stopped manually by using the Services utility, the NET STOP MySQL command, or the mysqladmin shutdown command.

You also have the choice of installing the server as a manual service if you do not wish for the service to be started automatically during the boot process. To do this, use the --install-manual option rather than the --install option:

C:\> "C:\Program Files\MySQL\MySQL Server 5.1\bin\mysqld" --install-manual

To remove a server that is installed as a service, first stop it if it is running by executing NET STOP MySQL. Then use the --remove option to remove it:
...
http://dev.mysql.com/doc/refman/5.1/en/windows-start-service.html

Hello I have a samsung ah63-02058 G sound system and I am trying to get my music/movie sound from my computer output to my sound  system, can this be  done, my HDMN cable is not working for it, I do have Optical ports for both, I don't know if that will work either though.  Please assist, thankyou!Should not be a problem but remember once you have connected to whatever input location on your Samsung you will need to chose that input on the Samsung for you to hear the audio. I don't know what input options that you have on the Samsung system but your MANUAL should tell you what options exist for audio input. Usually the output from the computer for audio is line out on your sound card. However depending on the sophistication of your computer sound card other output (than the line out mini plug) may exist.truenorth This is a common problem.
Most computers do not have a sound interface compatible with a Home Theater system. Except the speaker/headphone output.
This article explains that sound ought to be in the HDMI connector.
HTTP://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI
But laptops do not send out sound to video connectors. Except S-Video on some laptops. An even then not always.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 23, 2012, 06:19:12 PM

But laptops do not send out sound to video connectors. Except S-Video on some laptops. An even then not always.

That's odd... my laptop outputs sound via HDMI just fine...

Glad it works for you. Did you have to do any special settings?

the one I wanted which, was intel instead.

I did read it So did you find a mainboard yet?

You know, it really doesn't matter which brand you throw in. Most mainboards last about 5 years. The good ones go beyond the 5 years without a hitch. Not to mention that your SYSTEM is most likely used to house WINDOWS XP given its specifications and therefore you could use it for about 2 years before it becomes unsafe to do so. (8 march 2014, XP support ends.) So unless you plan on running Linux on it, it really doesn't matter what you install.

I'd much rather see you invest time in that laser beam trap of fiery DEATH you've been talking about! Where are the SCHEMATICS you promised us?they SEEMLY done a combo motherboard which, is what I ordered.  Thing is that I dont know how long its going to take but, I placed an order for it

Hey guys just a quick question, i am looking at upgrading my ram just wondered which was a better route, 4 gigs of lower end generic ram no heat spreaders for $88.00 or 2 gigs of high end with aluminum heat spreaders for $85.00 let me know what you guys think.
  Thanks
    JokerDepends on what you want to use it for...e.g Games? Office work?

Also what OS do you plan on using?

XP+Games I would go with the 2GB (dependability+speed for games)

Vista+Games (You're joking right) the 4GB (If you can put up with Vista you can put up with anything)

Office work both go with the 2GB

It sounds like you have done your research but make sure its the right speed RAM first and faster isn't always better...especially if your machine takes DDR and your trying to upgrade to DDR2 

Kurtis

Joker08: Always a good question - always hard to answer! As Kurtiskain mentioned, it mostly depends on how you use your computer. Unless you are a 'power' user of some sort, you probably would be better off with 'more' than 'better.' And ALWAYS better off with quality RAM from a quality manufacturer.

Be advised that if your OS is 32 bit, it will not use more than ≈3 - 3.5 GB of RAM if you go with 4 GB.

Also, for the 'normal' user, typically XP can perform very well with 1 - 2 GB and Vista needs all it can get - but, at least 2 GB.

Best of luck with your upgrade!i am mostly upgrading the ram for gaming, i am currently running a pent 4 3.2 ghz processor with 1 gig  2x(512mb) ram, a x1950 pro video card, and am upgrading from ddr to drr pc3200 keeping same ram type just upping amount, mostly because i play age of conan and it TENDS to lag a bit. if that makes the decision any easier please let me know.
  thanks
    JokerI'm not a gamer so don't know if the solution to your "lag" problem is more or faster (or both!) memory. But...

Sounds like you are going to keep your old RAM and add more in empty slots. Be advised that sometimes 'old' RAM and 'new' RAM do not get along well together, for a variety of reasons. Trying to match DDR RAM may be especially difficult because of the age of your exising memory - over time manufacturing methods change, densities change, etc. Try to match the existing RAM the best that you can. Find the manufacturer and module number of the RAM and go to the memory manufacturer's website to get an idea of the probability of a successful RAM addition.

Best of luck!

EDIT: And, assuming that you do upgrade, run Memtest86 for at least 2 hours (longer is better - overnight is great) to see if there are any memory errors.

http://www.memtest.org/i don't have a problem dumping the old ram but would you advise to go with 2 gigs of the better ram to improve stability? Quote from: Joker08 on July 09, 2008, 11:59:34 AM

i don't have a problem dumping the old ram but would you advise to go with 2 gigs of the better ram to improve stability?

I have recently installed a Sapphire HD 2600 XT 256mb graphics card into an HP tower which has an onboard Realtek HD AUDIO device. The rest of the hardware setup is standard. 

This appears to have caused a conflict which I have tried to RESOLVE with little success.
After I installed the graphics card I lost all sound.  I went into the bios and found that it had disabled the onboard audio setting.  I CHANGED this to enabled and the audio returned.

However after installing the drivers for the Sapphire graphics card I lost the audio again. I checked the bios and the onboard audio was still enabled. Strangly enough we still GOT the windowsXP startup.wav but nothing when I played a file in Windows Media Player.  We reinstalled the Graphic card drivers but that didnt work. We havent been able to reinstall the realtec drivers.Have you tried downloading the driver from the internet?If you are hearing system sounds then the sound is no longer disabled...
Check all your settings in Control Panel/Sounds and Multimedia.

Hi, all

Please help me to solve my COMPUTER problem.  My computer doesn't have problem if no loading activity on my DVD-ROM drive, but it will shutdown when  loading the CD.  I've try to use DVD....so, no problem. It can be read......
I have the same problem if use CD-ROM drive, and I ever try others position IDE device and IDE Channel (Primary or secondary).
Now, all my IDE DEVICES (Hardisk & DVD-ROM) on Primary Channel IDE, DVD-ROM as a slave.

Thank You advance.
I honestly don't understand what the problem is here. Can you give us a bit more information and make the problem clearer.  OK...My computer has AMD Processor, 512 RAM and OS Windows XP SP2. IDE Device INSTALLED are HDD 40 GB and DVD R/W LG. 

My Computer is always restart, when it load or read data on CD. I don't know what's device problem here, because it's no problem to load or read DVD. I think the specification of DVD R/W can read CD or DVD.

My friend claim it caused by power supply device or broken IDE Cable, but i'm not sure.   Hmmm.....I don't think the PSU (power supply) or the IDE is the problem here.

Does this happen to all CD's or only one specific CD?
It's happened to all CD.  I ever try with new CD, but my computer still shut down.  My DVD R/W is new installed device.  I used CD R/W Samsung before DVD R/W device and problem is happened before. I changed my CD R/W because I think it broken.

Is this relation with computer BIOS Setting?Wait a second, how many CD Drives do you have in your computer?Just one CD Drive installed on my Computer.  It's DVD R/W Drive.That may be the problem. If it is a DVD Drive,  it means it can only read and write DVD's, unless it says on the drive it supports CD's.But, It's also happened when I used my old CD-ROM before.  My DVD-ROM is exactly new and I tried to another computer 2 days ago with no problem to read CD. Hmmm...all right then. So this current CD Drive works on another computer?

If so, on the computer that cannot read CD's, try to reinstall the driver for your DVD Drive.
You can do this by going to the manufacturers site and searching for downloads.
Or, you can go to Google and type [dvd drive name] Driver download.OK, thank you so much.  I'll try to do this.... Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 07, 2008, 04:10:08 AM

That may be the problem. If it is a DVD Drive,  it means it can only read and write DVD's, unless it says on the drive it supports CD's.

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 07, 2008, 04:10:08 AM

That may be the problem. If it is a DVD Drive,  it means it can only read and write DVD's, unless it says on the drive it supports CD's.

All DVD drives will read a CD...never saw one that didn't...

I started a high travel job and want a really good notebook computer for entertainment purposes.

I'm trying to stay around 3k or under.

However, I want one that can run MMO WELL.

I was wondering if ANYONE had suggestion on capable notebooks.

Or suggestion on notebook video cards?I'm not much into gaming, however...there's one thing you should know...

Most laptop/notebook computers come with the video card integrated into the motherboard...so finding one with interchangeable video cards will be HIGHLY unlikely.

If you're looking for a decent notebook for MMO...then you might want to CHECK out this review at MMORPG.com.  Be prepared to do some reading...it's about three pages long.

Happy hunting...Under 3k. Wow 3k is a lot for a computer.
XPS as far as I know are great so check this one out
http://www.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/xpsnb_m1730wow?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&~oid=us~en~29~xpsnb_m1730wow_anav1~~

It's the most expansive xps but it's great.
These are all over 1300 $$$ laptops:
http://www.dell.com/content/products/category.aspx/notebooks?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&~ck=mn#subcats=xpsnb&navla=&a=55103~0~857204,52176~0~817062&page=1&sort=-price


Also I looked into the Alienware.com it's a great website for great gaming desktops/laptops and stuff well this one is really nice and cheaper then at Dell
http://www.alienware.com/products/area-51-m17x-notebook.aspx?SysCode=PC-LT-AREA51M17X&SubCode=SKU-DEFAULT

It's up to you though on the specs.

To me though the alienware looks cooler and it looks like it's better too. Alienware is a great peace of creation BTW  Dell bought out Alienware:  http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1895,1941376,00.aspWow I didn't know but Alienware still rocks :P If you compare gaming systems Alienware beats Dell.Yes...I agree...Alienware (Dell) do make awesome machines.

Hi,
Can anyone share with me what is the problem with my printer.
It prompt out an error "User Intervention Required,printer offline"when i click the printer icon. i try restart my PC,but sadly the problems is still the same.

I'm using a HP laserjet 1020 printer in a network.what are the possibilities it might be based on this situation.

Thank youPrinter Offline?

Make SURE everything is plugged in properly and that the printer itself is turned on.if all are turned on, make sure that your printer is turned on in windows by going to Control Panel>Printers and Other Hardware>Printers and Faxes, and right click on the printer and SEE if a menu option is available that says "use printer online"... or something to that gist.Is this a network printer? Or is it connected to your machine? Also have you checked the printer for something like a PAPER jam?

Quote from: CARBON Dudeoxide on August 06, 2008, 10:32:43 PM

Printer Offline?

Make sure everything is plugged in properly and that the printer itself is turned on.

Is this a network printer? Or is it connected to your machine? Also have you checked the printer for something like a paper jam?

Check your shutdown temps in the BIOS - what are they?The computer is still running when the screen goes black.I'll double check the shutdown temps when I get home later.Just to make sure that we're communicating - Enter the BIOS and see what the set temperatures are to shut down or slow down the computer.Righto!Unable to find shutdown temps in BIOS, opened everything. I have reloaded XP and still no real difference except the screen freezes for 2 to 3 mins with audio loop before going black and the audio still looping in the back ground. Also have loaded the latest drivers for the ATi 9600 (73Mb), checked the refresh rate and droped from 85hz to 60hz but still the problem PERSISTS only now it freezes and fails before even getting to the game, you are in the prelim/login/setup screen when it dies.

I have a new faster CPU arriving any day, I have been to the AMD website and COPIED drivers for it. What is the process for changing out a CPU? Quote from: Costin on July 29, 2008, 06:30:54 PM

Unable to find shutdown temps in BIOS, opened everything. I have reloaded XP and still no real difference

Im not extremely well informed about computers so if this is like something easy to fix dont be harsh.

Like two days ago i turned my comp on and it started loading up like usual with the dell screen coming up and such. About a couple seconds LATER the screen gets a wavy/fuzzyness to it then a few seconds later ( the time varys ) the screen will go black. The sound still works but the screen goes black. On occasion the screen will flicker back on with the fuzzy/wave to it but then will go back to black. For the LAST two days i have gotten the screen to come back up and work in like ten minutes, but now it just doesnt flicker on at all it just stays black.

Any help?If it is a CRT monitor, I'd say the display is shot. If it is a LCD display, its interesting that it has wavyness, and could be a cable issue between computer and the display.

I'd say your likely looking at having to get a new display. Dell by the way generally is COMPOSED of cheap components that dont last more than a year or two before problems.It's just strange I've had this computer and monitor longer then two years and it has never given me trouble in the past nor has it shown signs that it would have any trouble.Anyone ? please help?adamsgotowned,Before rushing out to spend your hard earned coin try the monitor on another computer.If it functions then guess what --that ain't it. Obviously check cables to your video connection. Then you may WANT to have a look at possible problems with your video card.Let us know how things progress with the monitor.truenorth

I: have a Compaq computer wimodem SR1630NX. I have upgraded to windows vista, I have added one more DVD+/- RW Drive and I have added one extra 512 mb DDR ram to get a total of 1gb.

I have a HiPRO D3057F3R 300W power supply.  Here is newegg's link to the exact power supply I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817174026

I checked out NVidia's website and it says that 300W is enough to run the 8600GT, but is that true for my system? I know that power requirements may be different than what Nvidia states because of all the other hardware that requires power from PSU.

I'd like to upgrade to 8600GT instead of using the integrated graphics which is horrible. I know that higher wattage psu's may not be that expensive to buy but I'd like to not have to spend the time to install it (however easy it may be to do that).

Thanks! 300 Watts is cutting it close ... I'd have a 400Watt or better so that the PSU is not having to run at 100% all the time which will lead to it failing sooner than if it was running at say 75% if a 400watt. PSU's also are not that bad in price generally, and if you burn up that 300watt supply it could take out more than just itself, it could damage your motherboard as it fails and can not regulate its voltage outputs correctly. You have to weigh the risk. Can you chance burning up the motherboard or is it smarter to have a stronger PSU that can handle better loads.

The other danger running 100% is that you can corrupt your hard drive as the amperage and voltage AVAILABLE dips and the platters dont quite spin at the CORRECT speed, but slower in RPM's and the data ends up intruding on neighboring sectors as the drive starts to lag behind the data it is writing to it and you can suffer total data loss or a very costly data recovery if that important.The calculator http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp says I only need 215 W.

How reliable is that recommendation?

I'm not a hardcore gamer. On the weekend, I might pllay Age of Empires 3 now and then or NBA LIVE 08 now and then. I'm thinking of taking on Battlefield 2 again.

I don't mind if I have to turn the resolutions to a lower resolution but I'd like to keep at high settings otherwise, something I can't do now with the integrated graphics card.

------------

I think that my current PSU (supplied by compaq) is a GOOD quality PSU but that only problem is that it provides only a max of 300W. Also if I am not mistaken, the cool 'n' quiet technology employed in the computer regulates the amount of power the computer needs at any given point of time as a result of devices not having to run at high speeds (to reduce noise and heat output)?

so my b-day is like 5 months away and i've decided i want a new graphics card because i hate ati and it's lame catalyst control center. i prefer nvidia, but my card was a great buy when i got it. anyway, i decided on this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500037
and while i was reading the reviews on it, i came across a couple reviewers who need a new psu because the card requires a minimum 12v CURRENT rating of 24A. i took two engineering COURSES in school, and i forgot like everything having to do with power and amperage and such. my current psu is this model: http://rosewill.com/product/product.aspx?productId=487 and i'm not sure if it can SUPPORT this glutton of a gpu. am i in the clear for it? or do i need a more powerful psu?If you look at the specifications for that PSU on the page you LINKED to, you would see it has dual 12V rails, one providing 17A and the other 18A.
The combined output is, apparently, 30A, which is sufficient for that card.
Hope this helps.ahh OKAY then. well i appreciate the help!

I cannot hear SYSTEM sounds or get sound from internet;  video GAME CDs play fine although oddly the intro trailers for game (example EA games) there's no sound but when playing game itself, it's OK.  Have tried troubleshooting through Windows, mute is not on, says devices working OK.  Any thoughts or help? uninstall/reinstall audio drivers. make sure they are the most up-to-date drivers.More info on...chipset/and version of widowsMost LIKELY, you have some CODECS missing. What Windows version, what browser? Did you try another browser?I am running XP;  there are 12 audio codecs, each is functioning correctly according to windows;  should there be more than this?Get this: http://www.free-codecs.com/download/XP_Codec_Pack.htm

Hi,
Sorry, i'm a bit useless with computers,

but I recently bought a new MP3. I plugged it into my computer for the fist time and the usual windows "New Found Hardware" CAME up, so I installed it to that. But I think that might be the problem.
Now when I SYNC with Windows Media Player, It detects device "USB SD" then disconnects quickly, and detects "USB MP3", it then repeats this over and over like it cannot decide which to connect, so therefore NOTHING happens.

I don't know what they mean, am I SUPPOSED to disable one of them somehow?

Help much appriciated.

Thanks. What kind of MP3 player is it?

Did any software come with it?Can you try another computer?
What happens if you leave it for like 5 minutes?
What Operating System are you using?

Yeah, I know the title makes me sound like a [email protected]$$. ANYWAY, like the title says... my computer won't read the mouse, or something. When I get to the login screen, the cursor won't move. I'm sure it's not the actual mouse itself because I've tried a different one. I think it might be the connection, because the problem started when I was LISTENING to MUSIC on the comp and my knee hit the tower (it's on the floor because there was no room on the desk) and the CD drive opened. I pushed the tower back a bit so that I wouldn't hit it, but SUDDENLY the cursor wasn't working. I checked the back to see if the cord had fallen out, but it was still in. I noticed that it was a little bit loose, though. I've tried unplugging and plugging in again, with the computer on and off.
The mouse is optical, and I the computer is aWindows PC. It's a few years old. Apparently the brand is Compaq Presario, if that helps at all. The mouse's cord is a USB cable, but we plug it into a little green thing with a round plug on the other end of it, and put that into the mouse port in the tower. My momsays it might be because there was only 3% memory left on the hard drive, but I don't think so. I'm really sorry I don't have more information. I'm not the least bit techno-savvy, so I don't know all the technical jargen that you use...
Please, please, please help me! EVERYTHING is on that computer! My life! And we CANNOT afford a new computer OR a PROFESSIONAL to come check it out. I'm desprate, seriously.try plugging the mouse into a usb port instead of the one its plugged into nowI've tried that.Borrow a different mouse and try it.I already did that.Did you try a PS/2 (Round plug) or a USB mouse? Remember, BEFORE you connect or disconnect to/from the PS/2 socket on the computer, you must shut down the computer to avoid damage. If USB, you can connect/disconnect with the computer on.

If you tried a PS/2 mouse, try again: shutdown the computer, plug in the mouse, re-start the computer.

Post the exact model # of the Compaq Presario.

Quote from: drmsucks on July 25, 2008, 02:31:41 PM

Did you try a PS/2 (Round plug) or a USB mouse? Remember, BEFORE you connect or disconnect to/from the PS/2 socket on the computer, you must shut down the computer to avoid damage. If USB, you can connect/disconnect with the computer on.

If you tried a PS/2 mouse, try again: shutdown the computer, plug in the mouse, re-start the computer.

Post the exact model # of the Compaq Presario.

Quote from: drmsucks on July 25, 2008, 02:31:41 PM

Did you try a PS/2 (Round plug) or a USB mouse? Remember, BEFORE you connect or disconnect to/from the PS/2 socket on the computer, you must shut down the computer to avoid damage. If USB, you can connect/disconnect with the computer on.

If you tried a PS/2 mouse, try again: shutdown the computer, plug in the mouse, re-start the computer.

Post the exact model # of the Compaq Presario.

Not sure about USB, but with the PS/2 plug, wouldn't the PC need re-booted in order to recognize the input device/mouse?

I'm running windows XP service pack 2 i have 550 MHz of ram.2 months ago i bought a liteon 52xcd-rw&16xdvd-rom 5 DAYS ago it just quit burning blank CD i thought maybe it was the machine so i took it back and got me another one DIFFERENT brand it would still not work so took it back tried another still no luck so i got me another new one yesterday it is the same one i had before the lite on. when i go to my computer i see 2 CD drives lite-on ltr-24102B and a atapi dvd c DH52C2P.Everytime i try to burn a music CD it tells me to put a blank CD in drive E so i tried this and it still tells me the same thing.I can play recorded music CD but i can not burn in any of the Rom's i have.I fell maybe it is a simple thing to fix and i can not afford 65.00 for maybe a 30 minute fix.If anybody can please help me i would appreciate thank you.Does Windows OS detect this drive as a CD/DVD Drive or just a CD Rom Drive in My Computer? If just detecting the drive as a CD Rom, then you have to go into the hardware manager and tell the OS that it is a CD/DVD-R or RW Drive.

What software are you using to burn media?  Have you tried reinstalling the software you use to burn media?Iam not sure what you mean by Windows OS but when i go into my computer i see 2 different ones and they are DVD\CD-RW DRIVE(D) and CD-RW DRIVE(E) SORRY iam not computer smart but i did not have this problem untill i hooked up a mp3 player to it and deleted the music on it and i think i might have done something bad to my computer. I have been using Maxell blank cd's if that is what you mean by software or do you mean the program which is windows media 10 i tried nero and i tried to upgrade to wmp 11 but it still tells me the same thing (put a blank cd in drive e. Can you please tell me how to go into the hardware manager and do the OS thing.
I called the company and they wanted me to go into the hkey local whatever thing but iam not smart enough to do all that lol.
Thank you so much for trying to help me

looking for a MAP of pins on the BACK of HD. as to witch pin DOSE wich operation.Check the hdd mfg's website for your drive.Google will hit this if you say IDE Pinout such as *Blocked RUSSIAN URL*/*Blocked Russian URL*/HD/AtaInternal_pinout.shtml[/url]

If you dont know digital electronics, be careful if tampering or you can blow your HD or Controller. If troubleshooting you will need an oscilloscope to read the data, interrupt requests, and strobe lines.

hello sir,

 

I have purchased my desktop one year before. It worked properly for a period of 4 months.

After that it started giving problems. The problem is, it keep on hanging either at the time of booting or after logging in. I have formatted  and restored the system many times. but the problem REMAINS as it is. I also consulted local computer reparer. He just painted some heat transferring material over the processor and increased the speed of cpu fan. This made my system work properly only for one month and after that the problem again raised.

My system details are as follows :

Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          Intel Pentium 4 630, 3000 MHz (15 x 200)
      Motherboard Name                                  Kobian PVM7 Pro
      Motherboard Chipset                               VIA P4M800 Pro
      System Memory                                     448 MB  (DDR2-667 DDR2 SDRAM)

Computer:
      Computer Type                                     ACPI Multiprocessor PC
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Professional
      OS Service Pack                                   Service Pack 2
   
[ Motherboard ]

    Motherboard Properties:
      Manufacturer                                      Kobian
      Product                                           PVM7 Pro
      Version                                           1.0
      Serial Number                                     00000000

  [ Chassis ]

    Chassis Properties:
      Manufacturer                                      Kobian
      Version                                           1.0
      Serial Number                                     00000000
      Asset Tag                                         0123ABC
      Chassis Type                                      Desktop CASE
      Boot-Up State                                     Safe
      Power Supply State                                Safe
      Thermal State                                     Safe
      Security Status                                   None

  [ Processors / Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz ]

    Processor Properties:
      Manufacturer                                      Intel
      Version                                           Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
      Serial Number                                     To Be Filled By O.E.M.
      Asset Tag                                         To Be Filled By O.E.M.
      Part Number                                       To Be Filled By O.E.M.
      External Clock                                    200 MHz
      Maximum Clock                                     3000 MHz
      Current Clock                                     3000 MHz
      Type                                              Central Processor
      Voltage                                           1.4 V
      Status                                            Enabled
      Upgrade                                           Socket 478
      Socket Designation                                CPU 1

   

So, sir please show me PERMANENT solution to my problem. I am enclosing a file with my system information.
Quote from: suman_kumar on July 23, 2008, 09:07:42 AM

I have purchased my desktop one year before. It worked properly for a period of 4 months.

The problem is, it keep on hanging either at the time of booting or after logging in.

It worked properly for a period of 4 months.

Quote

It worked properly for a period of 4 months.

It was time, then, to take advantage of warranty.

Can you boot to safe mode?

And also I noticed, your RAM was 448 MB  (DDR2-667 DDR2 SDRAM). Is this the only piece? If not, try what drmsucks suggested. Running your system, one RAM at a time..

Good luck! and keep us posted!

Quote from: patio on July 23, 2008, 08:08:01 PM

They are generally not reliable for testing PSU's as they don't put a load on the PSU which is the only way to determine if one is healthy or not...
Why scrimp on one of the most important components in the machine anyways ? ?
Borrow a known good one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there overnite to see if the issues go away...if they do invest in a new PSU.

There's a few things being overlooked here...

When a manuf. cranks out a ton of machines with all the same specs and exact hardware it's a simple thing to produce a million XP/Driver/Restore CD's for those machines...
However with all the rapid changes in hardware/components and machines having relatively short production cycles this became a miniature nightmare for them to keep up with.
A CERTAIN Model # PC could have 2 or 3 different CPU's; 5 to 8 different MBoards and who knows how many different onboard chipsets.

So consumer demand for the latest and greatest actually drove the industry to find another solution which was to take a clone of the machine components and OS at the time of production and place all that on a hidden restore PARTITION.

As to them sometimes being hidden partitions that would not normally be able to be manipulated by those without knowledge of the proper tools out there they were simply protecting the idiots from their own inquisitive nature.
After all we all know a certain amount of people who don't understand the simple premise that after a format or Restore their data is gone and there's nothing they can do about it without spending beau' coup bucks for a data recovery service.

End of mini-rant.Never thought I'd say this - but guess I'll have to agree to DISAGREE with Patio on this one.  I still don't see how the issuance/delivery of a reinstallation disk with s purchased copy of Windows is an imposition upon a boxmaker, or how its omission is a favor to the buyer.  But hey - it is what it is - in most cases, the disks will never be forthcoming, no matter who thinks what.I think the main reason they don't supply an actual Windows CD/DVD is because they would ultimately have to pay for it (although it really is only the license that needs to be paid for...). Oh well, I don't plan on buying a manufactured PC anyway.Get a Windows ME bootdisk off www.bootdisk.com
and burn it to a disc. Next, restart the computer with
your newly burned disc in the CD-ROM drive.. Yes, it
will boot into MS-DOS.. although it will be A:\..

Run fdisk.exe and change the appropriate fixed disk
if NEEDED.. then select the 'delete' menu option.. (usually
3) and delete a non-DOS partition.. it should be listed there.
If not.. I dont know what to tell you.. -.-;I could just borrow a friend's CD/DVD or download a bootlegged copy and just use my LEGAL key to run, provided that the key version matches the cd/dvd version of windows.

I''m not saying you pirate the software, you'd just be getting the missing software that you have a legal license for

I'm just getting into the nuts & bolts of computer guts due to an issue I have with a new Dell computer I bought. Originally I bought the computer to set up as a Raid 5 Machine, but found after it was delivered the resident bios did not support this. After several months of testing Raid cards and running into complications trying to set up Raid 5 on them, I'm exploring a possible different path - the reason for the post! Hopefully someone here in this community is educated enough to help!!

Dell of course will not provide me with the manufacturer of the MOTHERBOARD (proprietary info and all), but the Chipset is documented as a nVidia nForce 650i SLI and for the most part the tech specs seem to fit the nForce 650i SLI Motherboard, but it doesn't look like the one I see on THIER site.

So there's the question. According to the nVidia website the 650i SLI will support Raid 5, my Dell 650i SLI (Chipset at least doesn't), only Raid 1, 0, 1 & 0. Who chooses the difference, does the computer OEM write thier own firmware for the CHIPSETS they use? Since I'm ASSUMING the nVidia nForce 650i SLI Motherboard has the same Chipset as mine, shouldn't I be able to UPDATE the Firmware on the Dell and upgrade the machine to be Raid 5 capable? Hopefully one of you out here in the Cyberspace can help educate me!!

Hello everyone, I appreciate you taking the time to read my problem.

I have an Acer monitor, had it for 3 years with no problem.  I recently PURCHASED an entirely new COMPUTER and assembled it myself.  Everything worked great for about a week and then my monitor starts flickering and will not stop.  It's tolerable, but I have a feeling it won't go away on its own.  I've tried searching for solutions but haven't FOUND one that fixed my problem.

I've tried messing with the power strip/outlet to SEE if its a power problem, i've tried turning up the Mhz and consequently turning the resolution down (as my video card won't let me go above 60Mhz on 1440x900.)  Any ideas? I'd like to explore as many option as possible before I order a new monitor.  If this one is going to die, what monitor would you guys recommend? My computer is set up for computer gaming.

Specs:
P5Q Deluxe Mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo 3.16
NVIDIA Geforce GTX 280
4 gigs of ddram, corsair
Monitor is Acer, on my dxdiag file its only registered as a Plug and Play. Are there drivers for this sort of thing?  Have trouble identifying which monitor it is exactly.
Remove all power sources...remove a side panel and take out the vid card and re-seat it...
See if this improves anything.

You may also want to hook up the monitor to another machine to rule it out as a culprit...FLICKER BE GONE!
I have a new external Acer X183H 18.5" monitor I'm using with a  6 month old HP/Compaq "Presario" laptop.

I've had a similar problem with constant monitor flicker when my laptop is plugged into an AC outlet, but  discovered the flicker disappears completely when the laptop is unplugged and running on battery.

Today I found a suggestion on another site that fixed my flicker problem. It seems the electrical interference causing flicker was created when both units were plugged into the same power bar and wall outlet. As someone elsewhere suggested, I simply plugged the laptop and  monitor into 2 separate wall outlets. It worked like a charm!

I now have my laptop plugged into a power bar connected to one wall outlet, and my external monitor plugged into another one, connected to a 2nd  wall outlet. What ever interference existed before that caused the irritating flicker effect is finally gone!

Here I was expecting I might need to buy new cables, new ADAPTERS, or who knows what else...But all it required was the simplest of simple fixes! Yippeeiohkayay.

ok guys, i posted earlier about PCI slots not working.....im giving up on that and thinking of buying this
eMachines ET1160-05 Athlon LE-1600(2.2GHz) 1GB DDR2 160GB NVIDIA GeForce 6100 Windows Vista Home Basic
and PUTTING this card in it for dual dvi out
EVGA 512-P3-N944-LR GeForce 9400 GT 512MB 128-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16
my question is that i read somewhere that this motherboard had some issues with dvi out cards and want to find out if that is rue or was true and has been resolve?
I  know its not a crazy system but it will just be for installing my surveillance camera cards and using as a backup computer

what do you thinkc'mon......anyone?
Bueller....Bueller.......?

when VIEWING youtube or other video streaming the video plays for a short time and then PAUSES for roughly the same TIMEIT is more than likely Buffering   if you have dial up  it TAKES longer to download the video than it does to play it, so you end up with the LAGS

I have a DVD WRITER (ATA)  -  MOSER BAER DH-20A1P ATA Device

Now, it has stopped RECOGNIZING any Re-Writable discs. When i insert any Re-Writable DISC and double click on the dvd drive, then the disc gets ejected out.

This problem is with Re-Writable discs only and not with any writable discs.

Please help me out....Sounds like a bad laser...replace the drive.When you SAY re-writable discs do you mean they're blank or full of data? If first is the case you should try re-writable discs from another brand. Maybe you currently have a bad batch that isn't recognized by your drive. Also, try right mouse click on the icon and then "OPEN" instead of double clicking. Or try to go into the disc via explorer.

Hi

I'm having a problem with my Western Digital Netcenter network external hard drive. Yesterday I changed the pool size of the volume but while it was doing this I accidentally took the wrong plug out of the socket causing the netcenter to turn off. Now when I turn it on, it only lasts a few hours until it COMPLETELY freezes and is inaccessible. When this happens I press the power button then it turns the usual orange colour but it stays like this and the only way to restart it is to actually remove the plug and plug it back in and turn it back on. Does anyone know what I could do to FIX this?

ThanksWhen you remove power from a HDD often nothing bad happens.
But, if the drive controller was in a write operation when the power drops, the results can be harmful, depending on the timing of the moment of power LOSS. A write error on a HDD may block address information for that sector of the disc. It may have to go back to the factory for a low-level format. Something that you should not TRY unless the tech support provides you the specific tools to do that.Hi,

Would unclaiming the drive then re claiming the drive work? It tells me on the web based MANAGEMENT tool for the netcenter that this will erase the hard drive. Would this allow me to start over again?Would re formatting the hard drive correct this error do you think? Because I'm in process of transferring all the data from the hard drive to an external hard drive.

I have a BIOSTAR iDEQ 200P computer running Windows XP. The system fan won't operate. It will operate in another system. I measured the voltages on JCFAN1 and only measured 4.93v on the +12v pin. Is this normal or is this the reason the fan doesn't work?Could be a setting in the BIOS that tells it not to run until a CERTAIN temperature - or the mainboard connection could be faulty?Any other power issues cropping up, reboots etc?,............have you added any new devices that draw more power recently?..........How old is the power supply?
Your readings indicate a problem and a drop of just 1 VOLT will start problems ...see if you can swap out that power supply for a known good unit......

ftp://ftp.biostar-usa.com/manuals/IDEQ%20200P/IDEQ200Pmanual.pdfNo random reboots that I know of, although I haven't left it running long ENOUGH to finish booting. With the system fan not running, I didn't want to take a chance. No new devices have been added. You're right Karnac, there is another power connector. I measured the +12v pin on JSFAN1 and it measured 4.9v. I also tested the P1 plug, using a power supply tester. It tested good. I tried starting it up again and noticed the case fan wasn't working either! I'm going to try to boot it up using an external fan and see if I can get to the BIOS. I'll let you know what I find.By random reboots I meant in the past few weeks did you experience random boots or screen freezing up while you were doing any cpu INTENSIVE ACTIVITES.....

Can a PCI EXPRESS 2.0 video card WORK in a PCi Express X16 slot?  If so, is there a performance loss?
Do you mean a x2 video card.

 If so, then it will only work at x2 and not x16.i mean will a PCI Express 2.0 x16 vid card work in a PCI Express x16 mobo slot.  i've heard some say yes at a loss of performance, and some say no it just wont work.  just wondering if anyone knew for sure

ex. looking to put a Nvidia GeForce GTX 280, into a PCI Express x16 mobo slot.

my mobo: ASUS P5N32-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard

thnx in advance for any help on this.  Depends if the motherboard pcie x16 slot is 2.0 or not.  pcie 1.1 I think is compatible with 2 I think.  Mabye its 1 thats compatible with 2. I dont remember2.0 is backwards compatible with 1.1.I knew it ok, so is a PCI express x16 slot (non-2.0), considered a 1.1?what is the motherboard? There is pcie 1 and 1.1. It could be bothHere's what i'm using..
-ASUS P5N32-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard

This is copied from my mobo's specs page on Asus' WEBSITE..
-2 x PCI Express x16 slot, support NVIDIA® SLI™ technology, at full x16, x16 speed (blue)

doesn't say 1.0 or 1.1, so i'm assuming its just 1.0.  just trying to see if i can get a Nvidia GTX 280 in this baby.


I think that board has 1.1ok cool, anyway i can find out for sure?I know for shure.  ok great, thanks for the info!!  do you know if there is any performance loss if i use a 2.0 card in a 1.1 slot?ya there is 1.1 is a lot slower of a bus speed than 1.1 it goes like this exculding pcie x1
pcie2 > pcie  1.1 agp > pci

I never get the autorun option anymore whenever I insert a CD/DVD or my Flash Drives's

PLEASE DONT TELL TO
Open Windows Explorer by pressing the Windows + "e" key.
Right-click the desired CD-ROM and select Properties from the menu.
Select the AUTOPLAY tab.
Select each item from the pulldown list and for the ACTION to perform, select "Take no action" to disable autorun, or pick the apporpriate action to take if enabling autorun.
Select OK.

IT DOSENT WORK
Open Windows Explorer by pressing the Windows + "e" key.
Right-click the desired CD-ROM and select Properties from the menu.
Select the AutoPlay tab.
Select each item from the pulldown list and for the Action to perform, select "Take no action" to disable autorun, or pick the apporpriate action to take if enabling autorun.
Select OK.
YOU IDIOT I SAID OBOVE NOT TO TELL ME THAT I HAVE TRIED 1 MILLION TIMES DOSENT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah...I know....SOMETIMES the PROBLEM is in the ICK.........That's the interface between the CHAIR and the keyboard.

Carry on.Download, and run fix.bat: Click here
Restart computer.should't it be being set to "ask me what to do" anyway? Not "Take no action"?