24217 + Interview Questions in Hardware in Hardware Page 223 InterviewSolution

11101.	Solve : windows error recovery?
Answer» when EVER i turn my laptop on it goes to a black screen and says "Windows failed to START. a recent hardware or software change might be the cause" first of all i cant go PAST the windows error recovery page so i thought i would restore the computer. but it take me back to the error page! please help...anyone?? First, this is a forum not a chat room. Please stop bumping your post - we will reply when we can. And please do not start multiple threads for the same problem. I've merged and deleted your other posts and moved this to the appropriate forum. Second, What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new SW, virus, error, etc)? Third, you need to tell us about your computer hardware and OSsorry for all that.. im new here.. i have windows 7 and all i remember is that i updated my macafee and then restarted my computer. then bam the black screen apeared it happened LIKE 3 months ago but i could never find a solution then i found this website and thought i would give it a shot

Discussion

11102.	Solve : Memory OC, willit help??
Answer» My rig is running a GA-MA790Xt-UD4P motherboard with a AMD 965 Quad Core Black Edition and 2 X Mushkin DDR3 1333 . I mainly use it for chat, email, minor word processing and MSN Games. My question is will overclocking my memory give me a noticeable increase in performance? I KNOW I don't need to overclock my processor as I don't push it ANYWHERE NEAR it's limits. What is the FSB speed on the MBoard ? ?As far as I can tell it is 2600 MhzWow !Name Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P (rev0 1.0) Description AMD 790X / AMD SB750, DDR3, ATX, Sound card, Network card, Firewire Form factor ATX CPU Type AMD Phenom II X4 / II X3 Number of CPUs Single Socket AM3 Front side bus 2600 MHz MHz Chipset AMD 790X / AMD SB750 Memory type DDR3 Number of DIMM-Slots 4 Max memory 16384 MB Memory speed DDR3-1666, DDR3-1333, DDR3-1066No, you would never notice the difference at all, except in the shorter lifespan of you memory modules. Quote from: Quantos on January 15, 2010, 08:35:22 PM No, you would never notice the difference at all, except in the shorter lifespan of you memory modules. ahh! but then they could buy newer, faster sticks! It's genius! Quote from: Quantos on January 15, 2010, 08:35:22 PM No, you would never notice the difference at all, except in the shorter lifespan of you memory modules. Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 15, 2010, 09:59:58 PM ahh! but then they could buy newer, faster sticks! It's genius! Further justified by the intermitent errors reported by memory diagnostics. Go for it... Curious to see what errors or symptoms, if any, "overclocking" might generate...Personally, I've never overclocked.... I have had factory Overclocked graphics cards... in fact, I still have them and they work fine. But I have had to underclock components to determine what was happening (one such instance was within my first 100 or so posts on this forum, in fact, regarding my Nvidia Geforce 5500FX; underclocking solved the CRASHING issues at the time, but upon opening the case for an unrelated reason, I found that the fan was "mortally busted". Anyway, I had to plop off the fan from a PCI Geforce card I had and I was able to reset the card to it's "factory" (overclocked) settings with no ill effects. IMO, only CPUs and GPUs even have overclocking potential; this is due to the WAY the factory tests them; they don't test every processor individually- they take samples from each batch, and then based on the capabilities of those chips they assign the "default" speed of the processors. For example, a AMD K6-2 350Mhz processor has the exact same core die as a 500Mhz processor; the only difference is that the batch the 350Mhz was in was only able to stably run at 350Mhz. The reason this is used as a justification is because it's fully possible that not all processors in the batch are limited to the chosen speed. On the other hand, the batches are all extremely close; additionally, if the manufacturer could have charged more for the processor/gpu by selling it at a higher clock speed (and therefore higher price point) I imagine they would. many believe that the only worry is heat. This is actually quite far from the truth. there are a number of factors. Aside from the obvious heat issue, there is also the common practice of "upping the voltage" unfortunately people don't seem to clue in that "upping the voltage" also has a habit of causing electrical current within the chip to "arc" across the mere nanometers of space between traces on the chip. This almost always results in total and catastrophic processor failure and even motherboard failure as well. In fact, it is these voltage "spikes" that caused the entire batch to be rejected for use at the higher clock speed; the test subject processors from that batch were clock-tested; higher speed generally requires more voltage, and little, tiny inconsistencies, like 1 nm deviations of a single trace from the specification can cause shorts with the required voltages. these abberations in the processor die can occur for many reasons, such as heat deviations across the die as well as other reasons or other anomolies that spread across the die. My tried and true method for reliable overclocking is the following: Buy a CPU. use it at the speed it's rated. if you want a faster CPU, buy it. use a proper amount of paste and the stock cooler. (anybody ever notice that people are always saying that you need a better heatsink to overclock, a processor, and yet the exact same processor that you can buy at the desired overclocked speed comes with the same heatsink as the one your overclocking? the fact that your CPU gives out more heat then a equivalent, higher-clock speed CPU should be the first clue that there was a good reason it was rated for the lower speed). Buy memory at a supported speed for your motherboard. the motherboard will detect the PROPER speed of the memory and run it at this proper speed, and, barring quality issues you will not experience difficult to explain anomalies due to memory errors. Don't use the "BIOS overclocking" features. just because it's there doesn't mean it's safe to use, regardless of how many times the BIOS or it's documentations say "SAFE!" or "risk-free!". (and if you buy that crap you might want to see the INCREDIBLE OFFERS that are in your spam e-mail inbox, you gullible putz.) GPUs are a little bit different; generally if you have confidence in the distributor (like BFGtech or PNY) then it's alright to buy a overclocked card from them; unlike buying another card and overclocking it yourself, you are not voiding the warranty, and it generally has adequate cooling and other changes to try to make sure you don't need to warranty. That being said, if you can buy a newer card for a little more then an overclocked version of an older card the newer card is probably the best return on investment; even factory overclocked a overclocked card will have a shorter lifespan then a card that is running at the manufacturers specs; nature of the game, REALLY. Those few dollars could translate to years of life for the card later on down the road. This is of course irrelevant to so-called "graphics cards experts" who really have no idea how a shader WORKS or what a transformation pipeline does but somehow have even fooled themselves into thinking they know what they are talking about. They have no concept of economical or value; they believe whole-heartedly that paying for 2 more stream processors (again, they really have no idea what these do, but like to claim otherwise with big handwavy generalizations like "it helps the GPU work faster") for an extra 50$ is a worthwhile investment, with absolutely little regard for the fact that in a month that very same graphics card will have deprecated to less then 50% of the original price (again, this sort of thing is irrelevant to so-called "graphics called experts" who replace their GPU more often then they change their cats litter). Summary? a Fast computer is useless if it doesn't work, no matter how much you paid for it. Yep, if you want more, then buy more. Don't be a cheapskate.hmmmmm, guess oc'n the memory is outta the question then. I just like to tweak things. This rig is already wayyy overkill for what I use it for.. nice rig for 1,500 bucks, sure beats my last 3 Dells!!!And I'm not gittin' soaked on interest!!All the more reason not to overclock... Buy a cheapo P4 unit or so if you want to experiment with tweaking...

11102.

Solve : Memory OC, willit help??

Answer»

My rig is running a GA-MA790Xt-UD4P motherboard with a AMD 965 Quad Core Black Edition and 2 X Mushkin DDR3 1333 . I mainly use it for chat, email, minor word processing and MSN Games. My question is will overclocking my memory give me a noticeable increase in performance? I KNOW I don't need to overclock my processor as I don't push it ANYWHERE NEAR it's limits. What is the FSB speed on the MBoard ? ?As far as I can tell it is 2600 MhzWow !Name   Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P (rev0 1.0)
Description   AMD 790X / AMD SB750, DDR3, ATX, Sound card, Network card, Firewire
Form factor   ATX
CPU Type   AMD Phenom II X4 / II X3
Number of CPUs   Single
Socket   AM3
Front side bus   2600 MHz MHz
Chipset   AMD 790X / AMD SB750
Memory type   DDR3
Number of DIMM-Slots   4
Max memory   16384 MB
Memory speed   DDR3-1666, DDR3-1333, DDR3-1066No, you would never notice the difference at all, except in the shorter lifespan of you memory modules. Quote from: Quantos on January 15, 2010, 08:35:22 PM

No, you would never notice the difference at all, except in the shorter lifespan of you memory modules.

ahh! but then they could buy newer, faster sticks! It's genius! Quote from: Quantos on January 15, 2010, 08:35:22 PM

No, you would never notice the difference at all, except in the shorter lifespan of you memory modules.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 15, 2010, 09:59:58 PM

ahh! but then they could buy newer, faster sticks! It's genius!

Further justified by the intermitent errors reported by memory diagnostics.

Go for it... Curious to see what errors or symptoms, if any, "overclocking" might generate...Personally, I've never overclocked.... I have had factory Overclocked graphics cards... in fact, I still have them and they work fine. But I have had to underclock components to determine what was happening (one such instance was within my first 100 or so posts on this forum, in fact, regarding my Nvidia Geforce 5500FX; underclocking solved the CRASHING issues at the time, but upon opening the case for an unrelated reason, I found that the fan was "mortally busted".

Anyway, I had to plop off the fan from a PCI Geforce card I had and I was able to reset the card to it's "factory" (overclocked) settings with no ill effects.

IMO, only CPUs and GPUs even have overclocking potential; this is due to the WAY the factory tests them; they don't test every processor individually- they take samples from each batch, and then based on the capabilities of those chips they assign the "default" speed of the processors. For example, a AMD K6-2 350Mhz processor has the exact same core die as a 500Mhz processor; the only difference is that the batch the 350Mhz was in was only able to stably run at 350Mhz.

The reason this is used as a justification is because it's fully possible that not all processors in the batch are limited to the chosen speed. On the other hand, the batches are all extremely close; additionally, if the manufacturer could have charged more for the processor/gpu by selling it at a higher clock speed (and therefore higher price point) I imagine they would.

many believe that the only worry is heat. This is actually quite far from the truth. there are a number of factors. Aside from the obvious heat issue, there is also the common practice of "upping the voltage" unfortunately people don't seem to clue in that "upping the voltage" also has a habit of causing electrical current within the chip to "arc" across the mere nanometers of space between traces on the chip. This almost always results in total and catastrophic processor failure and even motherboard failure as well.

In fact, it is these voltage "spikes" that caused the entire batch to be rejected for use at the higher clock speed; the test subject processors from that batch were clock-tested; higher speed generally requires more voltage, and little, tiny inconsistencies, like 1 nm deviations of a single trace from the specification can cause shorts with the required voltages. these abberations in the processor die can occur for many reasons, such as heat deviations across the die as well as other reasons or other anomolies that spread across the die.

My tried and true method for reliable overclocking is the following:

Buy a CPU. use it at the speed it's rated. if you want a faster CPU, buy it. use a proper amount of paste and the stock cooler. (anybody ever notice that people are always saying that you need a better heatsink to overclock, a processor, and yet the exact same processor that you can buy at the desired overclocked speed comes with the same heatsink as the one your overclocking? the fact that your CPU gives out more heat then a equivalent, higher-clock speed CPU should be the first clue that there was a good reason it was rated for the lower speed).

Buy memory at a supported speed for your motherboard. the motherboard will detect the PROPER speed of the memory and run it at this proper speed, and, barring quality issues you will not experience difficult to explain anomalies due to memory errors. Don't use the "BIOS overclocking" features. just because it's there doesn't mean it's safe to use, regardless of how many times the BIOS or it's documentations say "SAFE!" or "risk-free!". (and if you buy that crap you might want to see the INCREDIBLE OFFERS that are in your spam e-mail inbox, you gullible putz.)

GPUs are a little bit different; generally if you have confidence in the distributor (like BFGtech or PNY) then it's alright to buy a overclocked card from them; unlike buying another card and overclocking it yourself, you are not voiding the warranty, and it generally has adequate cooling and other changes to try to make sure you don't need to warranty.
That being said, if you can buy a newer card for a little more then an overclocked version of an older card the newer card is probably the best return on investment; even factory overclocked a overclocked card will have a shorter lifespan then a card that is running at the manufacturers specs; nature of the game, REALLY. Those few dollars could translate to years of life for the card later on down the road. This is of course irrelevant to so-called "graphics cards experts" who really have no idea how a shader WORKS or what a transformation pipeline does but somehow have even fooled themselves into thinking they know what they are talking about. They have no concept of economical or value; they believe whole-heartedly that paying for 2 more stream processors (again, they really have no idea what these do, but like to claim otherwise with big handwavy generalizations like "it helps the GPU work faster") for an extra 50$ is a worthwhile investment, with absolutely little regard for the fact that in a month that very same graphics card will have deprecated to less then 50% of the original price (again, this sort of thing is irrelevant to so-called "graphics called experts" who replace their GPU more often then they change their cats litter).

Summary? a Fast computer is useless if it doesn't work, no matter how much you paid for it.
Yep, if you want more, then buy more. Don't be a cheapskate.hmmmmm, guess oc'n the memory is outta the question then. I just like to tweak things. This rig is already wayyy overkill for what I use it for.. nice rig for 1,500 bucks, sure beats my last 3 Dells!!!And I'm not gittin' soaked on interest!!All the more reason not to overclock...
Buy a cheapo P4 unit or so if you want to experiment with tweaking...

Discussion

11103.	Solve : will this SSD improve load times significantly??
Answer» looking to increase gaming load times my current HDD, 750gb SATA 7200 RPM specs: http://www.sisoftware.eu/rank2011d/show_run.php?q=c2ffcef8debfdee3dae9dfebdef88ab787a1c4a19cac8af9c4f7&l=en the one im looking at, 60 gb ssd http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227811 thanks - how much more load times u think will be? like now gw2 loads in 20 seconds, think it will go down to 5 seconds? thanks btw my specs are radeon 5670 HD 1gb 4gb ddr3 amd x2 phenom II 3.2ghz plan to put my game on the SSDI went with a 90GB OCZ Vertex SSD and World of WARCRAFT use to take about 10 seconds to load and it has been cut down to around 6 seconds. In addition to this functionality within the game has also gotten better such as when teleporting or hearthing ( quickly jumping from one map location to another ) takes about half the time. I initially tried this drive out to be used for both my OS Windows 7 32-bit + WoW and while it did speed up my boot time, I found that I actually get better gaming performance if I keep the OS and the game seperate on 2 drives. So I have my OS booting off of a 500GB SATA II drive and WoW and other games on this 90GB SATA II SSD. Load times for games are about 2 seconds faster by keeping OS and Games seperate. So Thats how I am running for max performance. Also to note my SSD is SATA III with SATA II reverse compatability and so I am running this drive at 3.0Gb/s vs 6.0Gb/s. I checked into upgrading to SATA III, but from what I have read the GAIN is not 2x faster performance because the drives that are SATA III are not takeing full advantage of the 6.0Gb/s SATA III just raises the ceiling of the max speed when it comes to drives. It doesnt mean that drive will perform at 6Gb/s! Here is my drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227759 Since this purchase I also bought a 60GB OCZ Agility SSD and installed that in my netbook which is running XP Home SP3. Fast Boots and much longer battery life, but at the cost of space for data. I bought these with a rebate and received American Express prepaid CREDIT card in return for $20. Found out that lots of places dont take American Express, BUT McDonalds does! =)

Discussion

11104.	Solve : Need More RAM??
Answer» Dear Forum, My computer slows, then Firefox CRASHES after opening 10 or so browser applications. I run two stock trading PLATFORMS with multiple charts on each. I have a Q8200 processor at 2.33GHz, with 3.25 GB RAM. Thanks a lot! SINCERELY, Mike Hello, 3.25 Gigabytes seems enough. What OS is this? I would say that your RAM is FINE. Judging by your hardware, it sounds like its software-based in my opinion. A build-up of TEMP files and/or fragmented files on your hard drive could cause Firefox to become unstable. Use tools such as Ccleaner and Smartdefrag in order to get rid of temp and fragmented files.

Discussion

11105.	Solve : built-in mouse on a laptop?
Answer» While using my built-in mousepad on my laptop, I've SOMEHOW minimized a couple of websites and I don't know how to GET them back to normal size. It SEEMS to occur as I'm moving my fingers across the mousepad, suddenly what looks like a magnifiying glass appears, and the site just gets smaller and smaller. It's driving me crazy. Please help! Thanks. Press F11...Hello, Some laptops will zoom in/out whenever you move two fingers across the touch pad a certain WAY. When you use your laptop be sure not to PUT more than one finger on the pad at a time.

Discussion

11106.	Solve : I'm not sure what the problem(s) is :/?
Answer» Hi guys, I have 2 problems with my PC atm and I'm PRETTY sure it's to do with the hardware. I'll list them seperately. 1 - Sometimes when I turn the computer on it doesn't fully start up. It makes the noise that is all the fans starting up but if just LEFT nothing happens on the monitor. When this happens I just press the reset button and wait for it to startup again and then it usually makes another fan-like noise which turns the monitor on. This happens about 50/50 each time I turn it on and I think it happens less when I leave it connected to the power for a while (when I plug it in and then turn it on straight after it does it QUITE alot). I know it's quite general so sorry for that. 2 - I think this may have something to do with the motherboard disk controller or a harddrive. The computer seems to lag quite alot for no apparent reason. Sometimes just deleting a file or saving one starts it off. I can still move the mouse freely around but I can't click on anything and the start button and the quick-launch buttons don't even react when I hover over them. Even the smallest thing can trigger it off and it really shouldn't happen for a computer of these specs. It all comes back a short while later but it is still rather annoying. I have had problems with the disk controller (I THINK) because XP has never worked on my SATA drives recently, but then I learnt it wasn't supposed to without special drivers or something (though it was fine when I first got the computer, without special drivers) and so I'm using only my IDE drive which is much more stable than the SATAs were. This may also be related: A month or 2 ago I was having problems with the svchost thingy and it using way too much memory. It seems to have calmed down but I'm still slightly suspicious of it. I currently have 8 svchosts running with one of them at a steady 29,500 K mem usage. Are those two things normal? I'll post some general specs now that may help you lovely people OS: XP x64 (legit with disk) Service Pack: 2 RAM: Crutial Ballistix 4 x 512MB CPU: AMD Athlon 2211MHz 64 Processor 3700+ Harddrive: 80GB IDE Graphics Card: ATI Radeon X1900 256MB Motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI Premium Anti-Spyware, Virus + Firewalls: Windows Defender, Mcafee VirusScan Enterprise 8 + Windows Firewall & Nvidia Firewall. I hope that is useful to you. Many thanks in advance for anything you may come up with, for either of the 2 problems. Is this fan working properly?----->FAN Do any of the capacitors look like the following: Your capacitors are busted. A few years ago, that happened to one capacitor on my motherboard and i needed to replace the motherboard. The brownish stuff is not supposed to be there, the capacitors are leaking or something, usually because it gets to hot or the current is not right. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on April 19, 2007, 06:04:29 AM Your capacitors are busted. A few years ago, that happened to one capacitor on my motherboard and i needed to replace the motherboard. The brownish stuff is not supposed to be there, the capacitors are leaking or something, usually because it gets to hot or the current is not right. That was a picture I posted to serve as an example. Quote from: Raptor on April 19, 2007, 06:20:07 AM Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on April 19, 2007, 06:04:29 AM Your capacitors are busted. A few years ago, that happened to one capacitor on my motherboard and i needed to replace the motherboard. The brownish stuff is not supposed to be there, the capacitors are leaking or something, usually because it gets to hot or the current is not right. That was a picture I posted to serve as an example. Ha!! I thought that image was from Slicx... Anyways, those in the pic are bustedSorry but to which problem was the busted capacitors related? I gave the fans a look and all 5 seem to be working fine. I have loads of those cylinder shaped things all over the motherboard though I'll guess that the ones I've highlighted are the ones you are refering to? Upon inspection they do have some signs of what I would call rust. I guess that warrents calling them busted right? The 3 highlighted are definitely not as shiney as all the other similar-shaped things (pardon my ignorance).As soon as they seem to be 'bulging' or leaking any kind of fluid they're broken. The symptoms of broken capacitors are slow downs and the inability to power-up at all from time to time. At one point, it'll refuse to do anything at all. So if your capacitors are leaking, back-up your data and look into replacing the motherboard. The picture you posted really isn't all that accurate, I can't tell whether they're leaking or not. I was just about to TAKE a better picture when I realised that it wasn't rust on them, it was dust. I cleared it off and now they look almost perfect. They now look nothing like the ones in the picture you posted - no brown-ness at all. Though it's clear that my comp has the symptoms of fauty capacitors, they don't look like the problem. Unless that is, they are bulging very slightly but they just look like all the other ones atm. Would a better pic still be the best course of action? Or could something else be causing this problem?Try replacing your PSU with a known-working and stronger one if you have one lying around. im having the same problem, No leaks too. It powers up, just does not boot every time. It only has problems when I have to do a hard power off "by button" or power outage sometimes. , when i shut down in windows it's fine. - maybe update drivers for mainboard? - chk power drain? - boot sequence error? what do you guys think? Quote from: Lurch on April 19, 2007, 05:57:00 PM im having the same problem, No leaks too. It powers up, just does not boot every time. It only has problems when I have to do a hard power off "by button" or power outage sometimes. , when i shut down in windows it's fine. - maybe update drivers for mainboard? - chk power drain? - boot sequence error? what do you guys think? It's best to start a new topic...even though your symptoms may be similar it will recieve better attention than at the middle of another persons thread.I have spare ones lying around but they are pretty old and atleast half the strength of the one I am using currently. Is there some kind of test I can do? Like an analysis program for the PSU? Or would it be safe to try a weaker PSU?No, I'd use nothing <400 Watt, otherwise you might risk damaging system parts. OK then I don't have anything I can try. Could there be anything else wrong with it that is causing these problems? If not then what would you guess at the cause being? I'd like to know if it's worth buying a new CPU or motherboard at this stage. EDIT ~ I'm not sure if it's relevent but I have gotten mild electric shocks off the back of my computer, mainly the USB ports and recently the speakers (though it happens only rarely). Maybe that might mean something Thanks.

11106.

Solve : I'm not sure what the problem(s) is :/?

Answer»

Hi guys,

I have 2 problems with my PC atm and I'm PRETTY sure it's to do with the hardware. I'll list them seperately.

1 - Sometimes when I turn the computer on it doesn't fully start up. It makes the noise that is all the fans starting up but if just LEFT nothing happens on the monitor. When this happens I just press the reset button and wait for it to startup again and then it usually makes another fan-like noise which turns the monitor on.

This happens about 50/50 each time I turn it on and I think it happens less when I leave it connected to the power for a while (when I plug it in and then turn it on straight after it does it QUITE alot). I know it's quite general so sorry for that.

2 - I think this may have something to do with the motherboard disk controller or a harddrive. The computer seems to lag quite alot for no apparent reason. Sometimes just deleting a file or saving one starts it off. I can still move the mouse freely around but I can't click on anything and the start button and the quick-launch buttons don't even react when I hover over them. Even the smallest thing can trigger it off and it really shouldn't happen for a computer of these specs. It all comes back a short while later but it is still rather annoying.

I have had problems with the disk controller (I THINK) because XP has never worked on my SATA drives recently, but then I learnt it wasn't supposed to without special drivers or something (though it was fine when I first got the computer, without special drivers) and so I'm using only my IDE drive which is much more stable than the SATAs were. This may also be related: A month or 2 ago I was having problems with the svchost thingy and it using way too much memory. It seems to have calmed down but I'm still slightly suspicious of it. I currently have 8 svchosts running with one of them at a steady 29,500 K mem usage. Are those two things normal?

I'll post some general specs now that may help you lovely people

OS: XP x64 (legit with disk)
Service Pack: 2
RAM: Crutial Ballistix 4 x 512MB
CPU: AMD Athlon 2211MHz 64 Processor 3700+
Harddrive: 80GB IDE
Graphics Card: ATI Radeon X1900 256MB
Motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI Premium
Anti-Spyware, Virus + Firewalls: Windows Defender, Mcafee VirusScan Enterprise 8 + Windows Firewall & Nvidia Firewall.

I hope that is useful to you. Many thanks in advance for anything you may come up with, for either of the 2 problems.
Is this fan working properly?----->FAN

Do any of the capacitors look like the following:

Your capacitors are busted.

A few years ago, that happened to one capacitor on my motherboard and i needed to replace the motherboard.

The brownish stuff is not supposed to be there, the capacitors are leaking or something, usually because it gets to hot or the current is not right. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on April 19, 2007, 06:04:29 AM

Your capacitors are busted.

A few years ago, that happened to one capacitor on my motherboard and i needed to replace the motherboard.

The brownish stuff is not supposed to be there, the capacitors are leaking or something, usually because it gets to hot or the current is not right.

That was a picture I posted to serve as an example. Quote from: Raptor on April 19, 2007, 06:20:07 AM

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on April 19, 2007, 06:04:29 AM
Your capacitors are busted.

A few years ago, that happened to one capacitor on my motherboard and i needed to replace the motherboard.

The brownish stuff is not supposed to be there, the capacitors are leaking or something, usually because it gets to hot or the current is not right.

That was a picture I posted to serve as an example.

Ha!! I thought that image was from Slicx...
Anyways, those in the pic are bustedSorry but to which problem was the busted capacitors related?

I gave the fans a look and all 5 seem to be working fine.

I have loads of those cylinder shaped things all over the motherboard though I'll guess that the ones I've highlighted are the ones you are refering to?

Upon inspection they do have some signs of what I would call rust. I guess that warrents calling them busted right?

The 3 highlighted are definitely not as shiney as all the other similar-shaped things (pardon my ignorance).As soon as they seem to be 'bulging' or leaking any kind of fluid they're broken. The symptoms of broken capacitors are slow downs and the inability to power-up at all from time to time.

At one point, it'll refuse to do anything at all. So if your capacitors are leaking, back-up your data and look into replacing the motherboard.

The picture you posted really isn't all that accurate, I can't tell whether they're leaking or not. I was just about to TAKE a better picture when I realised that it wasn't rust on them, it was dust.

I cleared it off and now they look almost perfect. They now look nothing like the ones in the picture you posted - no brown-ness at all.

Though it's clear that my comp has the symptoms of fauty capacitors, they don't look like the problem. Unless that is, they are bulging very slightly but they just look like all the other ones atm.

Would a better pic still be the best course of action? Or could something else be causing this problem?Try replacing your PSU with a known-working and stronger one if you have one lying around. im having the same problem, No leaks too.

It powers up, just does not boot every time. It only has problems when I have to do a hard power off "by button" or power outage sometimes. , when i shut down in windows it's fine.
- maybe update drivers for mainboard?
- chk power drain?
- boot sequence error?
what do you guys think? Quote from: Lurch on April 19, 2007, 05:57:00 PM

im having the same problem, No leaks too.

It powers up, just does not boot every time. It only has problems when I have to do a hard power off "by button" or power outage sometimes. , when i shut down in windows it's fine.
- maybe update drivers for mainboard?
- chk power drain?
- boot sequence error?
what do you guys think?

It's best to start a new topic...even though your symptoms may be similar it will recieve better attention than at the middle of another persons thread.I have spare ones lying around but they are pretty old and atleast half the strength of the one I am using currently.

Is there some kind of test I can do? Like an analysis program for the PSU?

Or would it be safe to try a weaker PSU?No, I'd use nothing <400 Watt, otherwise you might risk damaging system parts. OK then I don't have anything I can try.

Could there be anything else wrong with it that is causing these problems?

If not then what would you guess at the cause being?
I'd like to know if it's worth buying a new CPU or motherboard at this stage.

EDIT ~ I'm not sure if it's relevent but I have gotten mild electric shocks off the back of my computer, mainly the USB ports and recently the speakers (though it happens only rarely). Maybe that might mean something

Thanks.

Discussion

11107.	Solve : Frequent monitor reset and PC locks up?
Answer» I have had this problem for a while now. I have tried an new video card and a new monitor to resolve this with no sucess. has anyone else had this problem?fifer1791 ...... Perhaps you might like to explain in detail exactly what is happening..... for example, what do you mean by "frequent monitor resets"? How long has this been an issue? What operating system are you using ? Do you have all the applicable service packs and updates installed ? dl65 I am running XP and my pc checks for updates regularly, every morning at 3 am. This problem has been happening for a year or so. The PC is about 5 years old now. The PC is mostly used for the internet so I don't RUN any power hungry programs. What I call a reset is when the relays in the monitor or what sounds like a relay clicks a couple of times, usually twice while the screen is blank and the display comes back.The screen also freezes and locks up. Sometimes it resets on it own. Other times I have to go to the task manager which initiates a reset (ctrl alt del) I also get some display problems. Sometime a screen won't completley clear when I close a window and I will be left with traces on the screen. I even tried the minimum resolution and set the refresh frequency at 60 HZ I am wondering if it is a heat issue? then again I have tried cooling the PC with a 14 " fan and no difference. I know that computers are quite cheap for what I requre but I am frustrated that I can't pin point the problem. Reset the refresh rate to 75... Do you have another monitor you can borrow for a few days to determine WHETHER it's the monitor or the video card that is causing the trouble ? ?I purchased a new LCD monitor thinkibg this was the problem. No luck, same problem. Quote I am wondering if it is a heat issue? So am I, anything special about your environment? What are your motherboard and videocard TEMPERATURES? Were these both LCD monitors? Does the same one come from the same vendor and is it part of the same series? What kind of Internet security is installed? What videocard drivers are you using? Power Supply make and wattage ? ?Smells like a failing power supply. I WOULD suggest you D/L and run a free monitoring app like SpeedFan and post the power outputs. http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php The D/L "button" is in the second PARAGRAPH.

11107.

Solve : Frequent monitor reset and PC locks up?

Answer»

I have had this problem for a while now. I have tried an new video card and a new monitor to resolve this with no sucess. has anyone else had this problem?fifer1791 ...... Perhaps you might like to explain in detail exactly what is happening..... for example, what do you mean by "frequent monitor resets"?

How long has this been an issue?

What operating system are you using ?

Do you have all the applicable service packs and updates installed ?

dl65 I am running XP and my pc checks for updates regularly, every morning at 3 am. This problem has been happening for a year or so. The PC is about 5 years old now. The PC is mostly used for the internet so I don't RUN any power hungry programs.

What I call a reset is when the relays in the monitor or what sounds like a relay clicks a couple of times, usually twice while the screen is blank and the display comes back.The screen also freezes and locks up. Sometimes it resets on it own. Other times I have to go to the task manager which initiates a reset (ctrl alt del) I also get some display problems. Sometime a screen won't completley clear when I close a window and I will be left with traces on the screen.

I even tried the minimum resolution and set the refresh frequency at 60 HZ
I am wondering if it is a heat issue? then again I have tried cooling the PC with a 14 " fan and no difference. I know that computers are quite cheap for what I requre but I am frustrated that I can't pin point the problem. Reset the refresh rate to 75...

Do you have another monitor you can borrow for a few days to determine WHETHER it's the monitor or the video card that is causing the trouble ? ?I purchased a new LCD monitor thinkibg this was the problem. No luck, same problem. Quote

I am wondering if it is a heat issue?

So am I, anything special about your environment?

What are your motherboard and videocard TEMPERATURES?

Were these both LCD monitors? Does the same one come from the same vendor and is it part of the same series?

What kind of Internet security is installed? What videocard drivers are you using? Power Supply make and wattage ? ?Smells like a failing power supply.
I WOULD suggest you D/L and run a free monitoring app like SpeedFan and post the power outputs.
http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php

The D/L "button" is in the second PARAGRAPH.

Discussion

11108.	Solve : Sound Card making "thumping" sound, fuzzy music?
Answer» Okay, THANK you. Is it COMMON for cards to stop WORKING after a while? Which is a better solution; a new INTERNAL sound card or a usb card? I'm just concerned about breaking something while removing it, but I could always get someone else to do itEverything breaks down at some point. Internal sound card, a sound blaster if you play GAMES or work with sound.

Discussion

11109.	Solve : i/o shield is it necessary or important?
Answer» If you see my other thread I have bought a new motherboard. It did not have a I/O shield and I cannot find one thats RIGHT for the configuration. Can I BUILD without it?It should have come with one, I would look into that. Yes, you can build without but > You run a risk of a "short" to your board or other hardware . It is possible to short things out reaching back there and plugging/unplugging usb's or touching the back of your CASE in that area without the shielding from an IO plate. If you go that way, do not put case on carpet and be extremely careful back-there It prevents a lot of dust from getting stuck in an area that you can not reach. Quote from: screwball on May 21, 2007, 02:15:30 AM If you see my other thread I have bought a new motherboard. It did not have a I/O shield and I cannot find one thats right for the configuration. Can I build without it? As stated, you NEED one. Email the mobo mfr's support section and see if they have one. If that fails, find out who is recycling computers in your area and see if you can find one that is similar. (Bring your mobo along to check fitment) A little modification may be necessary. So far I've found most MAINBOARD manufacturers to be pretty eager to send out missing parts.

11109.

Solve : i/o shield is it necessary or important?

Answer»

If you see my other thread I have bought a new motherboard. It did not have a I/O shield and I cannot find one thats RIGHT for the configuration. Can I BUILD without it?It should have come with one, I would look into that. Yes, you can build without but > You run a risk of a "short" to your board or other hardware .

It is possible to short things out reaching back there and plugging/unplugging usb's or touching the back of your CASE in that area without the shielding from an IO plate. If you go that way, do not put case on carpet and be extremely careful back-there It prevents a lot of dust from getting stuck in an area that you can not reach.

Quote from: screwball on May 21, 2007, 02:15:30 AM

If you see my other thread I have bought a new motherboard. It did not have a I/O shield and I cannot find one thats right for the configuration. Can I build without it?

As stated, you NEED one.
Email the mobo mfr's support section and see if they have one.

If that fails, find out who is recycling computers in your area and see if you can find one that is similar. (Bring your mobo along to check fitment)

A little modification may be necessary.
So far I've found most MAINBOARD manufacturers to be pretty eager to send out missing parts.

Discussion

11110.	Solve : Hi my Computer will turn on but nothing comes up at all?
Answer» Hi there My Computer will turn on but nothing comes up at all. I have replaced the power supply and changed the hard drive, tried taking all non essential things off but to no avail. When I turn it on all I can hear is the fans, no CPU noise, nothing. Thinking it could be the motherboard or the CPU. Its also a Dell, does anyone know if the after market motherboards are compatible or will I have to buy a new case and swap everything?Try replacing the CMOS battery first to see if that has any effect. Ok thanks, will try that Quote from: Andy_Aitken on April 23, 2007, 08:24:09 PM Its also a Dell, does anyone know if the after market motherboards are compatible or will I have to buy a new case and swap everything? Dell is pretty proprietary on motherboards, connections, and power supplies. Did you use a Dell powersupply on there? Was it ANY different from it's previous state?Hi there You MAY have SEEN my post from a few weeks back which I've added at the bottom, I think I may have found the problem and need some help, I noticed that the holder that holds the heat Heat Sink down has 3 legs missing and the processor was not touching with the heat sink, would this cause the same problem as described in my last post? "My Computer will turn on but nothing comes up at all. I have replaced the power supply and changed the hard drive, tried taking all non essential things off but to no avail. When I turn it on all I can hear is the fans, no CPU noise, nothing. Thinking it could be the motherboard or the CPU?" Thanks for any help you can give meAbsolutely...depending on how OLD the machine is you should be able to find the 4 legged thingy at a local Computer repair SHOP or worst case scenario would be to have to order it online.... Who was the last person to work on this machine ? ?

11110.

Solve : Hi my Computer will turn on but nothing comes up at all?

Answer»

Hi there
My Computer will turn on but nothing comes up at all.
I have replaced the power supply and changed the hard drive, tried taking all non essential things off but to no avail.
When I turn it on all I can hear is the fans, no CPU noise, nothing.
Thinking it could be the motherboard or the CPU.
Its also a Dell, does anyone know if the after market motherboards are compatible or will I have to buy a new case and swap everything?Try replacing the CMOS battery first to see if that has any effect. Ok thanks, will try that
Quote from: Andy_Aitken on April 23, 2007, 08:24:09 PM

Its also a Dell, does anyone know if the after market motherboards are compatible or will I have to buy a new case and swap everything?

Dell is pretty proprietary on motherboards, connections, and power supplies.

Did you use a Dell powersupply on there? Was it ANY different from it's previous state?Hi there
You MAY have SEEN my post from a few weeks back which I've added at the bottom, I think I may have found the problem and need some help, I noticed that the holder that holds the heat Heat Sink down has 3 legs missing and the processor was not touching with the heat sink, would this cause the same problem as described in my last post?
"My Computer will turn on but nothing comes up at all.
I have replaced the power supply and changed the hard drive, tried taking all non essential things off but to no avail.
When I turn it on all I can hear is the fans, no CPU noise, nothing.
Thinking it could be the motherboard or the CPU?"
Thanks for any help you can give meAbsolutely...depending on how OLD the machine is you should be able to find the 4 legged thingy at a local Computer repair SHOP or worst case scenario would be to have to order it online....

Who was the last person to work on this machine ? ?

Discussion

11111.	Solve : Maximum keypress on laptop?
Answer» my FRIEND recently bought a new laptop, and if u hold down a certain number of keys ( i think 3), it will ignore all other keypresses. He ATTACHED a normal USB keyboard and theres still the same issue. Is there anyway to disable this? CUZ i know most laptops are like thisWhy ? ?

Discussion

11112.	Solve : Graphics card may be dead, need clarification?
Answer» HI to you all, i haven't been around for a while, but i need a hand. My monitor wasn't working so well, it's reaching the end of it's life and losing the red channel but oh well i decided to move it to a different position and so i unplugged it, moved it, plugged it in. When i turn the Computer on, the monitor stays in standby and there is no BIOS beep. i Kill it, screw in the monitor cable harder and restart. it says that Overclocking Failed. press F1 for setup and F2 for previous settings. I Press F2, because i have never overclocked in my life. linux boots but X won't START because it has some problem with the screen. X output says "Screens found but none with a usable configuration". I do a legitimate restart (do it from linux, not holding down the power button) and all is well. Recently, X crashed in the middle of a screensaver (probably a GLX thing) and i had to force a restart. all of a suddenly the original problem is back. If anyone can point out some obvious problem, that would be great. Quote My monitor wasn't working so well, it's reaching the end of it's life This may say it all. Try another monitor on that computer and this monitor on another computer to isolate where the problem really is. i thought the BIOS would work without a monitor? It doesn't beep, like it should, and the hard drive doesn't make a noise to indicate booting linux Quote i thought the BIOS would work without a monitor? Have you ever taken a PC apart before? Quote from: Raptor on April 29, 2007, 06:01:11 AM Quote i thought the BIOS would work without a monitor? Have you ever taken a PC apart before? yes, many times, i just read so in a book. then again, that book said a few ridiculous things so whatever. Though Bad News Indeed. I went to test out a different monitor and it didn't work. when i went to unplug it, i heard a strange frying noise coming from the card. insert big "uh-oh" here so this seems very MUCH like my video card, which was already rather old, has kicked the bucket very hard. alas, poor yorick, i knew him well. You unplugged the videocard while the PC was turned on? Quote from: Raptor on April 30, 2007, 07:56:24 AM You unplugged the videocard while the PC was turned on? no, unplugged the VGA cable from the video card and i happened to hear a noise coming from it, that SOUNDED a lot like frying. if i had i would have jumped out the nearest window for leaving my brain in the car. Did you power down the PC? Let's not lock the car door that quickly.. Basically, when you shut down a PC and leave the power cable in, unless the PSU has a I/O switch on the back there is still stand-by power. Two things could have happened: 1. You did not take precautions against ESD 2. You did not fully disconnect the PC from the power grid i must confess, the power cable was in . as for ESD, i only touched the plastic part of the connector.Plastic part of the connector? IF handling a PC you have to make sure that power is cut and to prevent ESD you either need a wrist strap (Or more) or you have to touch the metal casing (And preferably keep in contact with it throughout your work) for at least 60 seconds or so. When handling hardware, you never touch the gold connectors. If you touch these, the acids on your skin will damage them and oxidize these parts. This process doesn't set in immediately, but over time your hardware may become damaged or perform poorly. Yes I know, some so called 'experts' will grab the hardware any way they can; but may I remind you that a lot of people are in favour of Capitalism as well so you kinda get the idea there, right? Your hardware shouldn't make a 'frying' noise. This does not mean that your hardware was going to break down, it means you made it break down.. O.K, so far the tutorial on how to handle hardware. Thankyou for this LESSON, and i have learned valuable (if irrelevant) information. Most of this besides the first two sentences does not apply to my problem. but thx anyway. just one question: when you say standby power, how far through the machine does this go? is there any amount of power flowing through the vga cable?Sorry, class is over.

11112.

Solve : Graphics card may be dead, need clarification?

Answer» HI to you all, i haven't been around for a while, but i need a hand.

My monitor wasn't working so well, it's reaching the end of it's life and losing the red channel but oh well
i decided to move it to a different position and so i unplugged it, moved it, plugged it in. When i turn the Computer on, the monitor stays in standby and there is no BIOS beep. i Kill it, screw in the monitor cable harder and restart. it says that

Overclocking Failed. press F1 for setup and F2 for previous settings.

I Press F2, because i have never overclocked in my life. linux boots but X won't START because it has some problem with the screen. X output says "Screens found but none with a usable configuration". I do a legitimate restart (do it from linux, not holding down the power button) and all is well.

Recently, X crashed in the middle of a screensaver (probably a GLX thing) and i had to force a restart. all of a suddenly the original problem is back.

If anyone can point out some obvious problem, that would be great. Quote

My monitor wasn't working so well, it's reaching the end of it's life

This may say it all. Try another monitor on that computer and this monitor on another computer to isolate where the problem really is. i thought the BIOS would work without a monitor?
It doesn't beep, like it should, and the hard drive doesn't make a noise to indicate booting linux Quote

i thought the BIOS would work without a monitor?

Have you ever taken a PC apart before? Quote from: Raptor on April 29, 2007, 06:01:11 AM

Quote
i thought the BIOS would work without a monitor?

Have you ever taken a PC apart before?

yes, many times, i just read so in a book. then again, that book said a few ridiculous things so whatever.

Though Bad News Indeed.

I went to test out a different monitor and it didn't work. when i went to unplug it, i heard a strange frying noise coming from the card. *insert big "uh-oh" here*

so this seems very MUCH like my video card, which was already rather old, has kicked the bucket very hard.

alas, poor yorick, i knew him well. You unplugged the videocard while the PC was turned on? Quote from: Raptor on April 30, 2007, 07:56:24 AM

You unplugged the videocard while the PC was turned on?

no, unplugged the VGA cable from the video card and i happened to hear a noise coming from it, that SOUNDED a lot like frying.

if i had i would have jumped out the nearest window for leaving my brain in the car. Did you power down the PC? Let's not lock the car door that quickly..

Basically, when you shut down a PC and leave the power cable in, unless the PSU has a I/O switch on the back there is still stand-by power.

Two things could have happened:

1. You did not take precautions against ESD
2. You did not fully disconnect the PC from the power grid

i must confess, the power cable was in . as for ESD, i only touched the plastic part of the connector.Plastic part of the connector?

IF handling a PC you have to make sure that power is cut and to prevent ESD you either need a wrist strap (Or more) or you have to touch the metal casing (And preferably keep in contact with it throughout your work) for at least 60 seconds or so.

When handling hardware, you never touch the gold connectors. If you touch these, the acids on your skin will damage them and oxidize these parts. This process doesn't set in immediately, but over time your hardware may become damaged or perform poorly. Yes I know, some so called 'experts' will grab the hardware any way they can; but may I remind you that a lot of people are in favour of Capitalism as well so you kinda get the idea there, right?

Your hardware shouldn't make a 'frying' noise. This does not mean that your hardware was going to break down, it means you made it break down..

O.K, so far the tutorial on how to handle hardware.

Thankyou for this LESSON, and i have learned valuable (if irrelevant) information. Most of this besides the first two sentences does not apply to my problem. but thx anyway.

just one question: when you say standby power, how far through the machine does this go? is there any amount of power flowing through the vga cable?Sorry, class is over.

Discussion

11113.	Solve : Dell Latitude CPx??
Answer» Some of you will probably remember a thread a while back about me buying a laptop, well, Since I bought my computer, I haven't had enough money to buy anything. Now, however, I have enough to buy this latitude CPx. On eBay of course. http://cgi.ebay.com/Dell-Latitude-CPX-H500GT-PIII-500MHz-6GB-256MB-14-2117_W0QQitemZ320108270060QQihZ011QQcategoryZ140080QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Here are the specs: 500MHz P3 256MB RAM 6GB HDD Battery, and AC adapter TFT screen etc, etc seller rep. 99% price $100 (budget $120-$130) shipping $25 Please anyone who has had a latitude CPx, what is it like?\ I would've preferred a latitude c600, but those are $200 and up.I have a Latitude CPxJ very similar to what you are describing. I put in a 40 gig hard drive, and eventually had to replace the keyboard (which was simple) and have had absolutely NO problems for the last 5+ years. I run Windows 2000 and Linux as a dual boot with a wireless card and have had no issues with either. That price is a bargain if it is fully functional. A new battery costs about $100 and gets me about 3 1/2 hours of use. Any other questions?I'd get a Compaq Armada. My only other question is, will it be ok to get this one As-Is, considering what price i'm getting it for.Shipping is 1/4 of the price. Can't you get it from someone where you can see it function first? It'd SAVE money, it'd probably be more trustworthy and you know where the guy lives in case it needs to be returned to sender. Doesn't matter, bidding has ended. I'll look for another one...Like I said, I'd get a Compaq Armada and I'd pick it up from a nearby sales point. how about this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/Dell-Inspiron-7000-laptop-notebook-computer_W0QQitemZ280108649511QQihZ018QQcategoryZ140080QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemYou really can't tell from just a picture. When I go shopping for a second hand Laptop I take note of the following: 1. Is the LCD monitor still viewable (No dead pixels) 2. Is the HDD still healthy (No dead zones) 3. Has the laptop suffered any damage (Falling damage, for example) I really advise against shopping for a secondhand laptop on the Internet as it is very SENSITIVE material unlike a Desktop PC and a lot of things can be wrong with it that you can't see until you turn it on.. But then again, if you insist, I'd still get a Compaq Armada. compaq armada got it http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Armada-7800-Pentium-II-400_W0QQitemZ300105367803QQihZ020QQcategoryZ140082QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemThis ones CLOSING fast http://cgi.ebay.com/COMPAQ-ARMADA-E500-P3-600MHz-128MB-12GB-Notebook_W0QQitemZ280108363067QQihZ018QQcategoryZ140082QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemWell, it's at your own peril. Shipping costs are insane ... 35 dollars? Just 35 more and you've got a laptop! I like the Compaq Armada, I've got one. It's quite rugged. The BIOS is on a hidden partition of the HDD so its BIOS is a little more complicated than usual which may be a good feature if you INTENT on working with Linux.. Unfortunately, mine seems to be broken and I can no longer enter the BIOS. (Actually, I was never able to.) someone once suggested the previous owner dropped the laptop. The irony.. Oh yeah, the power adapter is on-board so I don't have to haul a heavy wire with me. That's a pro! For reference, I have the 1750. Click here for more information. http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Armada-3500-Laptop_W0QQitemZ290109880967QQihZ019QQcategoryZ140082QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I will look at the local pawn SHOP to see if i can find one. You guys sure look a lot alike. http://cgi.ebay.com/Toshiba-Tecra-8000-Pll-400MHz-6GB-256MB-CD-ROM-FDD_W0QQitemZ260112607484QQihZ016QQcategoryZ140083QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem It looks like a good deal, even includes warranty this time.

Discussion

11114.	Solve : about ViewSonic VA703m Monitor?
Answer» Hi, i got a new monitor last week and now my eyes r killing me, there is something wrong with that monitor i suppose. is it a good one, anybody knows????the BRAND and model? thankspl visit http://www.samsung.com/in/products/monitors/index.asp I've never used a VIEWSONIC monitor (nor do I know much about them), but I haven't SEEN any documention on them giving people any problems. Is this your first flatpanel LCD monitor? It could very well be a problem with your eyes. They simply may not be adjusting well. Also, make sure your CONNECTIONS are secure.thank you Quote from: ilit on APRIL 27, 2007, 12:52:06 AM Hi, i got a new monitor last week and now my eyes r killing me, there is something wrong with that monitor i suppose. is it a good one, anybody knows????the brand and model? thanks If it's a brand new monitor, you should have gotten a CD with drivers on it. Install these drivers and select a better refresh rate. Or get an LCD monitor. Quote from: Raptor on April 27, 2007, 06:48:55 AM Or get an LCD monitor. According to Google, this is an LCD monitor.Oh, get a CRT monitor then. Ha, nice save.

11114.

Solve : about ViewSonic VA703m Monitor?

Answer»

Hi, i got a new monitor last week and now my eyes r killing me, there is something wrong with that monitor i suppose. is it a good one, anybody knows????the BRAND and model? thankspl

visit

http://www.samsung.com/in/products/monitors/index.asp I've never used a VIEWSONIC monitor (nor do I know much about them), but I haven't SEEN any documention on them giving people any problems. Is this your first flatpanel LCD monitor? It could very well be a problem with your eyes. They simply may not be adjusting well. Also, make sure your CONNECTIONS are secure.thank you Quote from: ilit on APRIL 27, 2007, 12:52:06 AM

Hi, i got a new monitor last week and now my eyes r killing me, there is something wrong with that monitor i suppose. is it a good one, anybody knows????the brand and model? thanks

If it's a brand new monitor, you should have gotten a CD with drivers on it. Install these drivers and select a better refresh rate.

Or get an LCD monitor. Quote from: Raptor on April 27, 2007, 06:48:55 AM

Or get an LCD monitor.

According to Google, this is an LCD monitor.Oh, get a CRT monitor then.

Ha, nice save.

Discussion

11115.	Solve : DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS?
Answer» Hi all I am doing an assignment for collage and i need to include a few diagnostic tools to write about. I currentley have an anti static wristband , Multimeter and a POST CARD ! I could do with just one more type of tool. Any help is great !!! Thanks MikeWhat do you mean by 'diagnostic tools', do you mean like SOFTWARE or hardware...or other...basically things that can FIND a problem inside the computer Well there are programs that can find out about the computers system like how much memory there is, how much ram is being used up, how much virtual memory you have, how fast the fan is spinning and all that but programs to find problems with computers are more or less antiviruses and registry checkers. Are those what you are looking for?Yeah, I would think software tools would be part of this. If so, I'll mention hard drive diagnostic utilities from the hard drive manufacturers.

Discussion

11116.	Solve : Changing Toner - HP Color Laserjet?
Answer» Our HP Color Laserjet 4500 N has begun to "bleed" cyan on every page we print ... big smears of it! (this clunker is a hand-me-down from another office) I thought I would SIMPLY CHANGE the toner, but unless the toner ACTUALLY runs out, I cannot figure out how to do that. Any suggestions on a way to bypass the usual PROMPTS? Thank you!

Discussion

11117.	Solve : Surge Protector with Battery Backup (UPS)?
Answer» Hello, Two of the APC Uninterruptible Power Supply units (UPS) at the office are beeping about once per day. It is because the battery on them needs to be replaced. I then went to the APC website http://www.apc.com/products/category.cfm?id=13&subid=5 They have so MANY options to choose from that it has me FLUSTERED. I called sales at APC and told them what is connected to the UPS. With that, he recommended I get one of the Back-UPS RS line because it has automatic voltage regulation (AVR). AVR instantly adjusts both low and high voltages to safe levels. He said the cheaper models below the RS line don’t have voltage regulation so only protect against high voltage levels and not low voltage levels which can also damage sensitive electronic components. He specifically recommended this one because of what was connected to the UPS (COMPUTER, external HARD drive, router) which requires more power support: http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1300LCD&total_watts=200 Do I really need low voltage protection? Am asking because the price to have both high and low voltage protection is so much higher. Any assistance WOULD be appreciated. Thanks, JerryAny UPS is better than no UPS. Depending on the model you now have, I would probably just replace the battery. If each one has one 12V 7AH, they are about $20/ea. If it's a 6V or 2-12V (+24V), the batteries are more expensive. http://www.apexbattery.com/What the sales man said is technically true, but if you have had the UPS units so long that the batteries are almost dead, and have had no problems, just replacing the batteries should be fine. If you were in an area subject to brown outs, like Southern CA, low voltage protection would be a good idea. But for most of the country it's not a problem. Second.I recommend high voltage protection because it will protect you from tons of more surges. Quote from: neelchauhan on November 24, 2009, 01:44:28 PM I recommend high voltage protection because it will protect you from tons of more surges. What does this mean ? ?You know, in case heavy electricity falls on the computer...

11117.

Solve : Surge Protector with Battery Backup (UPS)?

Answer»

Hello,

Two of the APC Uninterruptible Power Supply units (UPS) at the office are beeping about once per day. It is because the battery on them needs to be replaced. I then went to the APC website http://www.apc.com/products/category.cfm?id=13&subid=5

They have so MANY options to choose from that it has me FLUSTERED. I called sales at APC and told them what is connected to the UPS. With that, he recommended I get one of the Back-UPS RS line because it has automatic voltage regulation (AVR). AVR instantly adjusts both low and high voltages to safe levels.

He said the cheaper models below the RS line don’t have voltage regulation so only protect against high voltage levels and not low voltage levels which can also damage sensitive electronic components.

He specifically recommended this one because of what was connected to the UPS (COMPUTER, external HARD drive, router) which requires more power support: http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1300LCD&total_watts=200

Do I really need low voltage protection? Am asking because the price to have both high and low voltage protection is so much higher.

Any assistance WOULD be appreciated.

Thanks,

JerryAny UPS is better than no UPS. Depending on the model you now have, I would probably just replace the battery. If each one has one 12V 7AH, they are about $20/ea. If it's a 6V or 2-12V (+24V), the batteries are more expensive.
http://www.apexbattery.com/What the sales man said is technically true, but if you have had the UPS units so long that the batteries are almost dead, and have had no problems, just replacing the batteries should be fine.

If you were in an area subject to brown outs, like Southern CA, low voltage protection would be a good idea. But for most of the country it's not a problem.

Second.I recommend high voltage protection because it will protect you from tons of more surges. Quote from: neelchauhan on November 24, 2009, 01:44:28 PM

I recommend high voltage protection because it will protect you from tons of more surges.

What does this mean ? ?You know, in case heavy electricity falls on the computer...

Discussion

11118.	Solve : scan disk?
Answer» scan DISK connected to my pc will not connect. I have not recognition that is exist on the Pc.Need to know how to correct the problem.More info...You think?Sure...werx for me...Where did we leave those pliers?What operating system is the PC using? For Windows XP the "old" scan disk function is now performed by the CHECK disk (chkdsk) utility. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chkdsk. If you need more information than is provided in the body of the article see the "External LINKS" and "References" at the end of the article.scan disk connected to my pc will not connect. I have not recognition that is exist on the Pc.Need to know how to correct the problem. Quote from: dahlarbear on November 23, 2009, 11:13:35 PM What operating system is the PC using? For Windows XP the "old" scan disk function is now performed by the check disk (chkdsk) utility. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chkdsk. If you need more information than is provided in the body of the article see the "External Links" and "References" at the end of the article. The post has nothing to do with scandisk (other than the subject/title)Scan disk... or "SanDisk"?SanDisk is a SOFTWARE app... Let's not confuse the issue...SanDisk is a company that MAKES flash media products. I have several of their USB thumb drives and this may be what the absent original poster (OP) is referring to. But like you said, "More info...".

11118.

Solve : scan disk?

Answer»

scan DISK connected to my pc will not connect. I have not recognition that is exist on the Pc.Need to know how to correct the problem.More info...You think?Sure...werx for me...Where did we leave those pliers?What operating system is the PC using? For Windows XP the "old" scan disk function is now performed by the CHECK disk (chkdsk) utility.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chkdsk. If you need more information than is provided in the body of the article see the "External LINKS" and "References" at the end of the article.scan disk connected to my pc will not connect. I have not recognition that is exist on the Pc.Need to know how to correct the problem.
Quote from: dahlarbear on November 23, 2009, 11:13:35 PM

What operating system is the PC using? For Windows XP the "old" scan disk function is now performed by the check disk (chkdsk) utility.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chkdsk. If you need more information than is provided in the body of the article see the "External Links" and "References" at the end of the article.

The post has nothing to do with scandisk (other than the subject/title)Scan disk... or "SanDisk"?SanDisk is a SOFTWARE app...
Let's not confuse the issue...SanDisk is a company that MAKES flash media products. I have several of their USB thumb drives and this may be what the absent original poster (OP) is referring to.

But like you said, "More info...".

Discussion

11119.	Solve : Type of DVD discs?
Answer» I currently use Roxio 2010 to copy to CD's and DVD's. I was told by their tech support that, based on my computer, Dell INSPIRON 1501 Vista Home OS, I should use DVD-R for use with Roxio. Whenever I load a blank DVD-R into the drive the drive "disappears" from view (not visible on My Computer). I have to use a paper clip to eject the DVD and then reboot to see the DVD/CD drive on MY COMPUTER again. Any ideas on why this happens, and is there anyway to get back the visibility of the DVD/CD drive without restarting. Thanks, PeterYour best option is to get rid of Roxio. How many of this behemoth's 1000 features do you really use? Quote Your best option is to get rid of Roxio. I agree. I used Roxio at one time, EMPHASIS on "one time". While the big guns like Roxio and Nero throw the hype, I have used Ashampoo's free burning SUITE for a long time, no issues, not saying that GOES for everyone of course. There are many other freebies that work well too. According to the dell specs, your drive should support DVD-\+R\RW, so them telling you to use DVD-R to APPEASE Roxio is nonsense. Roxio should support both as well. Another option is to delete the upper and lower filters in the regsitry, HOWEVER, I highly agree with the above post and I would try something else first, uninstalling Roxio and getting something that works.

11119.

Solve : Type of DVD discs?

Answer»

I currently use Roxio 2010 to copy to CD's and DVD's. I was told by their tech support that, based on my computer, Dell INSPIRON 1501 Vista Home OS, I should use DVD-R for use with Roxio. Whenever I load a blank DVD-R into the drive the drive "disappears" from view (not visible on My Computer). I have to use a paper clip to eject the DVD and then reboot to see the DVD/CD drive on MY COMPUTER again.
Any ideas on why this happens, and is there anyway to get back the visibility of the DVD/CD drive without restarting.

Thanks,
PeterYour best option is to get rid of Roxio.
How many of this behemoth's 1000 features do you really use? Quote

Your best option is to get rid of Roxio.

I agree. I used Roxio at one time, EMPHASIS on "one time". While the big guns like Roxio and Nero throw the hype, I have used Ashampoo's free burning SUITE for a long time, no issues, not saying that GOES for everyone of course. There are many other freebies that work well too.

According to the dell specs, your drive should support DVD-\+R\RW, so them telling you to use DVD-R to APPEASE Roxio is nonsense. Roxio should support both as well.

Another option is to delete the upper and lower filters in the regsitry, HOWEVER, I highly agree with the above post and I would try something else first, uninstalling Roxio and getting something that works.

Discussion

11120.	Solve : CD-ROMS compatible from other countries???
Answer» I know that DVDS from other countries have a DIFFERENT region code and cannot be played on my DVD player. Is it the same way with CD- ROMS? -- thanksNo.

Discussion

11121.	Solve : SLAVE HARD DISK NOT RECOGNIZED?
Answer» I have a 200 gig hard disk(slave) that I filled with data and kept in a sealed packet. I connected it to the original computer (XP)AthlonD first without the jumper and then with the jumper in CABLE select and slave as well. the computer does not recognize the disk. I bought a special gadget that plugs in USB with the same RESULT. I have a new SATA computer and tried again with another gadget connected vis USB and still no result. The ribbon is 80 s wires. The cd rom drives are on a separate ribbon. Have I lost the lot or is there an alternative I haven't tried?What is the master drive jumpered to ? ? Some (like Western Digitals ) need to be jumpered master w/slave present or it won't work... Does the 200G show up in the BIOS ? ?Thank you patio. The primary disc has one jumper on one set of pins where indicated on the HD. The secondary drive (200 gig) I tried with NO jumpers, and then on the second set of pins (cable select) and again on the third set (Slave?). Still no luck.No the BIOS does not recognize the diskTry it on a seperate IDE channel...for example temporarily disconnect the CD drive and put it on that cable... Keep it slave jumpered. Not showing in the BIOS is not a good sign however but let's not write it off for now...Hi Patio, I can't thank you enough for your advice. I plugged the 200 GIG HDisk into the CD ROM plug and LO and Behold, My Computer recognized it as Local 'D' and all 187 GIGS of images and other data that I had spent a year scanning, was revealed. I quickly transferred the whole lot into a 500 GIG external drive. I think that one of the strands in the ribbon from the MOTHERBOARD may be broken. So thank you again. Regards rover41Excellent News... Glad you got your data back. Time to start considering a regular backup regimen...any questions stop back and ask. And Welcome Aboard !Do you mean 'Welcome aboard Motherboard'?! Is backing up on San Disk cards a recognized form of storage? Or memory sticks? I use what's known as an imaging application. My personal choice is Acronis True Image... Basically it takes an "image" of your entire HDD. That can then be stored elsewhere or ideally burned to CD's/DVD's. If something happens and you cannot recover you simply restore the image to your HDD and everything is exactly as it was at the point the last image was created. Beats the heck out of re-installing Windows and all tour drivers and programs all over again...Thanks, I have found the site and shall back up as advised. Thank you again for your help!There is also a good FREE alternative i recently tested and reviewed... Macrium Reflect

Discussion

11122.	Solve : Fan not working on desktop PC?
Answer» I have a Packard Bell 6810 SLI bought 3 years ago and it has given me endless problems but the latest one was that BIOS said the CPU was overheating. After reading various threads here and elsewhere I decided to have a go at cleaning the fan, which is manufactured by AVC. I found that that both fan and heatsink were totally clogged with dust so I dismantled the assembly and removed the dust. I then reassembled them and removed the old thermal pad and applied Thermal Paste and refitted the heatsink/fan. It seemed to work OK and I played the videogame Far Cry for about an hour to see what effect it it would have on the temperature.I then shut the PC down and reopened it, going STRAIGHT into BIOS to see what the temp was, and was alarmed to see that the fan SPEED showed as 0 RPM. I ran the PC with the side off and sure enough the fan was dead. I've had the fan off tonight and connected it to a 9 Volt DC battery (it's a 12 volt fan) and it worked OK. Put it back in the PC and it's dead. Any ideas? Cheers, Alan3-wires on fan? Fan speed sensor is shot. 4-wires on fan? Fan PWM control is shot.Thanks Commando. It's a 3 wire pin, Black/Red/White. If the Fan Speed Sensor is shot, is that a repairable problem?Replace fan.Went out this after and took the heatsink and fan assembly into a local PC shop and bought a replacement for £12. Put it in, switched the PC on with the side off and .............nothing.It just sits there like a dog turd.BIOS setting or motherboard problem. You said: "...Packard Bell 6810 SLI bought 3 years ago and it has given me endless problems..." Packard Bell does does RECOGNIZE that model number for the UK. Is fan cable long enough to reach to case fan connector (if it has one)?I had no idea where the "case fan connector" was so I did a Google and found one Power Unit where it was an additional lead.There's none on my power unit so I checked the motherboard and all I could find was a 2 pin (male) connector marked "NB FAN" which my fans' 3 pin socket won't fit.There's a loose 4 pin connector under one of the 2 GPU's and another loose connector marked "P7". The Ipower 6810 SLI isn't a common model but here are the specs- [Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Enter BIOS---PC Health---CPU Smart Fan Control If Enabled, then change to Disable. Not sure exactly what it means, but something on motherboard is preventing the fan from running. On 3-wire fan, 1 is power, 1 is power return, 1 is speed sensor On 4-wire fan, 1 is power, 1 is power return, 1 is speed sensor, 1 is speed controlThanks again for the advice Commando.I tried disabling the Smart Fan Control and also uninstalled Speedfan but neither of these did any good and I am back at square one.Any more ideas? It is back gathering dust Quote from: Ankylosaurus on October 31, 2009, 02:41:28 PM ... 1. I checked the motherboard and all I could find was a 2 pin (male) connector marked "NB FAN" which my fans' 3 pin socket won't fit. 2. There's a loose 4 pin connector under one of the 2 GPU's and another loose connector marked "P7"... I assume one of these connectors is live. Plug your 3-pin fan into "P7". On 3-wire fan, red is power, black is power return, yellow is speed sensor. On motherboard it's the same order. If "P7" is dead, use "NB FAN", 1 pin is +12, the other is ground. http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/cs-012074.htm

11122.

Solve : Fan not working on desktop PC?

Answer»

I have a Packard Bell 6810 SLI bought 3 years ago and it has given me endless problems but the latest one was that BIOS said the CPU was overheating. After reading various threads here and elsewhere I decided to have a go at cleaning the fan, which is manufactured by AVC. I found that that both fan and heatsink were totally clogged with dust so I dismantled the assembly and removed the dust.
I then reassembled them and removed the old thermal pad and applied Thermal Paste and refitted the heatsink/fan. It seemed to work OK and I played the videogame Far Cry for about an hour to see what effect it it would have on the temperature.I then shut the PC down and reopened it, going STRAIGHT into BIOS to see what the temp was, and was alarmed to see that the fan SPEED showed as 0 RPM. I ran the PC with the side off and sure enough the fan was dead.
I've had the fan off tonight and connected it to a 9 Volt DC battery (it's a 12 volt fan) and it worked OK.
Put it back in the PC and it's dead.
Any ideas?

Cheers, Alan3-wires on fan? Fan speed sensor is shot.
4-wires on fan? Fan PWM control is shot.Thanks Commando. It's a 3 wire pin, Black/Red/White. If the Fan Speed Sensor is shot, is that a repairable problem?Replace fan.Went out this after and took the heatsink and fan assembly into a local PC shop and bought a replacement for £12. Put it in, switched the PC on with the side off and .............nothing.It just sits there like a dog turd.BIOS setting or motherboard problem.

You said: "...Packard Bell 6810 SLI bought 3 years ago and it has given me endless problems..."
Packard Bell does does RECOGNIZE that model number for the UK.

Is fan cable long enough to reach to case fan connector (if it has one)?I had no idea where the "case fan connector" was so I did a Google and found one Power Unit where it was an additional lead.There's none on my power unit so I checked the motherboard and all I could find was a 2 pin (male) connector marked "NB FAN" which my fans' 3 pin socket won't fit.There's a loose 4 pin connector under one of the 2 GPU's and another loose connector marked "P7".
The Ipower 6810 SLI isn't a common model but here are the specs-

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Enter BIOS---PC Health---CPU Smart Fan Control
If Enabled, then change to Disable.

Not sure exactly what it means, but something on motherboard is preventing the fan from running.

On 3-wire fan, 1 is power, 1 is power return, 1 is speed sensor
On 4-wire fan, 1 is power, 1 is power return, 1 is speed sensor, 1 is speed controlThanks again for the advice Commando.I tried disabling the Smart Fan Control and also uninstalled Speedfan but neither of these did any good and I am back at square one.Any more ideas? It is back gathering dust Quote from: Ankylosaurus on October 31, 2009, 02:41:28 PM

...
1. I checked the motherboard and all I could find was a 2 pin (male) connector marked "NB FAN" which my fans' 3 pin socket won't fit.
2. There's a loose 4 pin connector under one of the 2 GPU's and another loose connector marked "P7"...

I assume one of these connectors is live.
Plug your 3-pin fan into "P7".
On 3-wire fan, red is power, black is power return, yellow is speed sensor.
On motherboard it's the same order. If "P7" is dead, use "NB FAN", 1 pin is +12, the other is ground.
http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/cs-012074.htm

Discussion

11123.	Solve : GPU fan making a buzzing noise?
Answer» Yes, but I did specifically state underclocking. I doubt that if your GPU is already hot, that it will overclock. I experimented with my 6200, and when it is at a hot temp (60*C), it is downclocked when detect optimal frequencies is pressed. So, seriously, I doubt it. This is also a tool OFFICIAL from NVidia, included in prev. control panels, except the new one. And I mean, come on. Please play nice with me, and take it easy if I make a mistake. I'm not perfect.To revive this thread, I just want to make an update... I will be purchasing a new graphics card today (that'll be either the Nvidia GeForce 9500 or 9800, and they are £62 and £94 respectively) and I'm going to remove the old one and fit in the new one myself as I found some instructions on how to do it here. So yeah, it seems pretty easy to do it although my current graphics card has four screws on the backplate and one of the computer's other components is above one of the screws, which means I may find it difficult to take it out. I'll manage anyway. Besides, I know for the fact that a brand new graphics card won't make that same noise... as my mum and my brother-in-law said that it will happen again (even though my brother-in-law has experience in computers).BrydoRX: Just make sure you are buying the card for the correct slot on your motherboard. Don't wanna be left with a useless card.Actually, I think I've realised what's the REAL cause of this noise... it may be the fact that I'm on the computer on a very frequent basis (which I admit I do) and somehow the GPU can't take the stress on this. I believe me vigorously cleaning the fan and the GPU unable to get used to the cool temperature are not connected to the noise but I'm not sure if any of you can agree with this. Also, I used RivaTuner to underclock the GPU (to 365MHz) and that didn't help get rid of the noise which is what BC_Programming mentioned already. I honestly don't know what to do now and it seems that the only solution is to keep the computer off for a number of hours. If there's no real solution for this, then I will need to save up for a new computer. I know that may sound silly but that's what I'm going to do and my brother-in-law is helping out on this. EDIT: Forgot to add, I'm not sure if the noise will be there for a temporary amount of time (as it only happened since last week) or will it stay there forever. If it's temporary then I'll be HAPPIER but I'd want to know when it'll go away. If it's permanent then I'll have to wait until I get the money for a new computer (that will be a laptop) although I can possibly borrowing a laptop from my college when I start back next month. Quote That being said another ALTERNATIVE would be to remove the card and take it to a PC store and see what they would charge to install a replacement fan...if you don't care to do it yourself. Personally i still think the card is worth salvaging but if you want a new card that's certainly an option as well. patio. It's been a week and I'd like to say some good news... the buzzing noise from the GPU is gone now although it now makes a low engine-like noise which I can tolerate. I noticed this difference since Monday and I believe that the GPU is slowly recovering from its problem. I don't know if its recovery was done by itself or did the underclock settings I specified a week ago helped this. I can't believe it's been two weeks that the buzzing noise has been going for but even if it's gone, I'd like to know when the GPU will fully recover. I'm guessing it could fully recover next Monday (2nd August) but I could be wrong. At least I'm happy now

11123.

Solve : GPU fan making a buzzing noise?

Answer»

Yes, but I did specifically state underclocking. I doubt that if your GPU is already hot, that it will overclock. I experimented with my 6200, and when it is at a hot temp (60*C), it is downclocked when detect optimal frequencies is pressed. So, seriously, I doubt it. This is also a tool OFFICIAL from NVidia, included in prev. control panels, except the new one.

And I mean, come on. Please play nice with me, and take it easy if I make a mistake. I'm not perfect.To revive this thread, I just want to make an update... I will be purchasing a new graphics card today (that'll be either the Nvidia GeForce 9500 or 9800, and they are £62 and £94 respectively) and I'm going to remove the old one and fit in the new one myself as I found some instructions on how to do it here. So yeah, it seems pretty easy to do it although my current graphics card has four screws on the backplate and one of the computer's other components is above one of the screws, which means I may find it difficult to take it out. I'll manage anyway.

Besides, I know for the fact that a brand new graphics card won't make that same noise... as my mum and my brother-in-law said that it will happen again (even though my brother-in-law has experience in computers).BrydoRX: Just make sure you are buying the card for the correct slot on your motherboard. Don't wanna be left with a useless card.Actually, I think I've realised what's the REAL cause of this noise... it may be the fact that I'm on the computer on a very frequent basis (which I admit I do) and somehow the GPU can't take the stress on this. I believe me vigorously cleaning the fan and the GPU unable to get used to the cool temperature are not connected to the noise but I'm not sure if any of you can agree with this.

Also, I used RivaTuner to underclock the GPU (to 365MHz) and that didn't help get rid of the noise which is what BC_Programming mentioned already. I honestly don't know what to do now and it seems that the only solution is to keep the computer off for a number of hours. If there's no real solution for this, then I will need to save up for a new computer. I know that may sound silly but that's what I'm going to do and my brother-in-law is helping out on this.

EDIT: Forgot to add, I'm not sure if the noise will be there for a temporary amount of time (as it only happened since last week) or will it stay there forever. If it's temporary then I'll be HAPPIER but I'd want to know when it'll go away. If it's permanent then I'll have to wait until I get the money for a new computer (that will be a laptop) although I can possibly borrowing a laptop from my college when I start back next month. Quote

That being said another ALTERNATIVE would be to remove the card and take it to a PC store and see what they would charge to install a replacement fan...if you don't care to do it yourself.

Personally i still think the card is worth salvaging but if you want a new card that's certainly an option as well.

patio.

It's been a week and I'd like to say some good news... the buzzing noise from the GPU is gone now although it now makes a low engine-like noise which I can tolerate. I noticed this difference since Monday and I believe that the GPU is slowly recovering from its problem. I don't know if its recovery was done by itself or did the underclock settings I specified a week ago helped this.

I can't believe it's been two weeks that the buzzing noise has been going for but even if it's gone, I'd like to know when the GPU will fully recover. I'm guessing it could fully recover next Monday (2nd August) but I could be wrong. At least I'm happy now

Discussion

11124.	Solve : Has my laptop gone kaput? Failing battery, fan and usb ports?
Answer» I'm wondering if there is something I can fix or not or I should just get a new computer. About a year ago my fan failed after I brought my computer to Vegas while on vacation. The fan failed while we were there and had dirt in it. We thought the heat in the car may have helped BREAK it since her laptop also broke (her screen just got scrambled up). I went home, looked up solutions here (thanks btw) and changed the fan myself. I also changed the silver stuff while I was changing the fan and it worked fine. About 5 months ago my battery died died. I can't use it without it being plugged in and it will not stay on if unplugged. Two months ago my USB ports started being weird. Sometimes they would stop reading what was plugged in randomly... then randomly start working again. It would be any of the ports (both those grouped in the back and front of my laptop). Now, my fan is starting to fail again and my fan is new. I've been keeping it clean with compressed air. It will not work at all sometimes or work only a little. What gives? Should I just buy a computer or is there some fix? I'm going to update the BIOS but I'm not sure that will do anything. I do know there are a few trojans that Sophos detected and I assume it took care of it. I also regularly use CCleaner. I also don't leave on my computer all day like others. I have a Toshiba Satellite A105. I bought my computer in... 2006 I think. Either 2006 or 2007... but I'm pretty sure it was 2006. I have 2gigs ram, approx 150 gb hd, dual core approx 1.25 ghz each. I am running Windows XP (had a free upgrade to Vista but I never used it, ha ha). Also if I throw away this laptop... would I be able to use the ram in a new computer? (Assuming, of course, I get a computer that is compatible.)Well...a new laptop is always nice, there might be some other things I can recommend (ALTHOUGH you might have checked these already). For you USB ports not working, look in Device manager (Go to start menu > run > type: devmgmt.msc > click ok). Look for any yellow exclamation points or red x's under "Universal Serial Bus Controllers." It may be that you need to update drivers for that particular laptop from Toshiba, try downloading them from: http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/home.jsp?nav=Download. Another good place to update: Microsoft or Windows update if you are using MS Windows. As for your fan failing, that's best dealt with by a pc tech in person, though I suspect it might have something to do with something shorting out in there. Might have something to do with another faulty component in the laptop involving power, especially if there is a burning smell (In a desktop, a faulty power supply will often fry anything new you put in a computer). Or, it COULD just be something with the fan, but it's all speculation from here. Sounds like you live in a hot place, remember heat is the ultimate enemy of your laptop. Sometimes in an older laptop (although yours isn't that old) it is helpful to get a COOLING BAY that you can place it on top of. These are generally pretty cheap and are a good investment. Finally, for the memory, those darn things change so fast and often that they're probably obsolete, but if you can find another computer that is compatible, I wouldn't see why not. A wonderful website for detecting the type of ram on your laptop automatically besides consulting the manual is crucial.com. Once you know the ram type, you'll be able to find another compatible computer. Hope this helps a bit.Your laptop is with about $100 as parts. A replacement in mint condition is close to $700. But a new laptop with same specs goes for less. Forget about the memory sticks.You said it yourself, the thing has been in the heat. PC components do not recover from heatstroke. The damage is permanent.

Discussion

11125.	Solve : Computer fails to start - possible hardware problems?
Answer» Ok so a while ago my computer randomly refused to turn itself on. The computer would power up and the fans would run, however all I would get is a Long beep followed by three shorter beeps from the computer. This would repeat over and over whilst nothing would boot up - no image displayed on the screen - nothing. Upon some reasearch about my motherboard it appears that the beeps are reporting a graphics card linked problem - so I tried removing the graphics card and RAM and reseating it - however that still failed to produce any change. I then tried resetting the motherboard by remove the battery for a few moments - since then the unit now shuts down after each series of error beeps and restarts - to again beep and then shutdown. From what I have found so far it appears to be saying that either: 1) the motherboard is dead 2) the graphics cards is dead 3) both components are dead. Sadly I don't have a second compatable computer to try testing the graphics card in - however I was wondering if any here would beable to shed some light on the situation and maybe suggest some possible alternatives before I try replacing the components. For reference the components I have are : Asus P5B Delux motherboard Asus Nvida Geforce 8800 GTX Intel Pentium duel core processor (I've honestly forgotten the details and unless I can only read the front of the fan component details on this) Any help would be greatly appreciated. At the moment I am thinking that I will have to search out a replacement motherboard to install with a mind to looking for another graphics card as well. The worry is if I replace the motherboard first and attach a possibly duff graphics card is there a risk that the graphics card might break the motherboard through its own error (should the card be all that is at fault) I also have the problem that all the hard pack details (CDs, manuals etc..) for the setup I have is not at my current address (I didn't expect the whole rig to die on me)After doing some reaserch, there are (I think) two possable problems: 1) Bad hard drive. To test this, try SWAPPING hard drives with another computer. If it does not boot, you have your problem! 2) If you have an extra RAM stick, try taking out all the current ram in the pc, and swap them for just that one stick. If it boots, you have your problem!Sadly I've no harddrive spare to swap in and out from the existing computer - I did wonder about the harddrive failing (it was getting very overfilled!) though the only references to the beep pattern I found listed it being the graphics aspect rather than the harddrive - something that appears to be supported by the fact that the screen doesn't even flickr when the power is turned on (the screen is on but is getting no messages from the graphics card at all). If it is theharddrive I do SEEM to recall reading somewhere that you can boot up from a USB stick with something like Linux (Umbatu) though I've never used this software nor know if its possible to do so I'll try to see if I can find a comptable stick of ram to swap in and out to fully test. I have two sticks in the computer at present and have removed each and tested them one by one to no luck. Quote from: overmind on JULY 29, 2010, 06:22:42 AM ...all I would get is a Long beep followed by three shorter beeps from the computer. This would repeat over and over whilst nothing would boot up - no image displayed on the screen - nothing... From what I have found so far it appears to be saying that either: 1) the motherboard is dead 2) the graphics cards is dead 3) both components are dead... You have analyzed it correctly; unlikely both graphics card and motherboard are dead. Do you have a dedicated graphics card, i.e. plugged into a slot, or is it "onboard"? It's not the hard drive, they don't cause beep codes. Even with no hard drive, you would still see something on the screen on a working computer.Its a dedicated graphics card (plugged into a slot kind). I did risk starting up the computer without the graphics card attached to see if the error sounds stopped or changed yet they remained the same. If its just the card that is dead that does make replacements a lot easier. I guess the cheaper approach is to replace the card first and see if that works out or not. Of course price then comes into it as well as maintaining compatabilty. So that its a card that will work with my current board and yet take to a more modern board if/when I get a chance to upgrade.What is the interface (slot type) on the graphics card? PCI-e16 or AGP? There's pics in the links. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accelerated_Graphics_Port Is this the motherboard? If, yes, it's PCI-e16, the blue one. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131045 My thanks for the visual prompts and yes that looks exactly like the motherboard with the very same blue PCI-e16 slot.Asus is a good motherboard; I wouldn't give up on it yet. Virtually all PCI-Express16 graphics cards will work in that motherboard, if your power supply is big enough for the more powerful ones. Here's one for $39, fan cooled, digital & analog outputs. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130313&cm_re=graphics_card_pci_express-_-14-130-313-_-Product Had the similar problem occur on my Intel MB and it was the memory module. Maybe go back and run the mem. stick check again.Computer_Commando has best ANSWER. Got buy a modest graphics card. Always a good investment for future diagnostics.Not a bad idea, but I'm really tempted to use this as an excuse to get a shiny new upgraded graphics card - that and Starcraft 2 sitting right infront of me (I've waited 10 years and now this is all that stand in my way!). I'll keep an eyeout for a card like the one linked though, if I can get one for around that price in the UK then I agree it would make a good cheap testing unit to start with and would at least let me get the basic rig back up and running. Not a bad THING just incase there is another problem present - no sense blowing all the money on a card only to find that I need another replacement component. Make sure the card meets/exceeds the Starcraft requirements or you will just be throwing good money after bad...If the cheap graphics card gets the computer running again (ie its the only problem) then I'll certainly be making a big upgrade to the graphics card To update the cheap card arrived in the post and the computer has powered up as normal. Not a single error beep or slowdown. So somewhere on the mass of graphics card I'm sure there is one little blown resistor or something! So now the hunt begins for a new card! Quote from: overmind on August 03, 2010, 03:46:48 AM To update the cheap card arrived in the post and the computer has powered up as normal. Not a single error beep or slowdown. So somewhere on the mass of graphics card I'm sure there is one little blown resistor or something! So now the hunt begins for a new card! Maybe you could ask Patio if he has... any room left in his video card graveyard.

11125.

Solve : Computer fails to start - possible hardware problems?

Answer»

Ok so a while ago my computer randomly refused to turn itself on. The computer would power up and the fans would run, however all I would get is a Long beep followed by three shorter beeps from the computer. This would repeat over and over whilst nothing would boot up - no image displayed on the screen - nothing.

Upon some reasearch about my motherboard it appears that the beeps are reporting a graphics card linked problem - so I tried removing the graphics card and RAM and reseating it - however that still failed to produce any change. I then tried resetting the motherboard by remove the battery for a few moments - since then the unit now shuts down after each series of error beeps and restarts - to again beep and then shutdown.

From what I have found so far it appears to be saying that either:

1) the motherboard is dead
2) the graphics cards is dead
3) both components are dead.

Sadly I don't have a second compatable computer to try testing the graphics card in - however I was wondering if any here would beable to shed some light on the situation and maybe suggest some possible alternatives before I try replacing the components.

For reference the components I have are :
Asus P5B Delux motherboard
Asus Nvida Geforce 8800 GTX
Intel Pentium duel core processor (I've honestly forgotten the details and unless I can only read the front of the fan component details on this)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. At the moment I am thinking that I will have to search out a replacement motherboard to install with a mind to looking for another graphics card as well. The worry is if I replace the motherboard first and attach a possibly duff graphics card is there a risk that the graphics card might break the motherboard through its own error (should the card be all that is at fault)

I also have the problem that all the hard pack details (CDs, manuals etc..) for the setup I have is not at my current address (I didn't expect the whole rig to die on me)After doing some reaserch, there are (I think) two possable problems:

1) Bad hard drive. To test this, try SWAPPING hard drives with another computer. If it does not boot, you have your problem!

2) If you have an extra RAM stick, try taking out all the current ram in the pc, and swap them for just that one stick. If it boots, you have your problem!Sadly I've no harddrive spare to swap in and out from the existing computer - I did wonder about the harddrive failing (it was getting very overfilled!) though the only references to the beep pattern I found listed it being the graphics aspect rather than the harddrive - something that appears to be supported by the fact that the screen doesn't even flickr when the power is turned on (the screen is on but is getting no messages from the graphics card at all).

If it is theharddrive I do SEEM to recall reading somewhere that you can boot up from a USB stick with something like Linux (Umbatu) though I've never used this software nor know if its possible to do so

I'll try to see if I can find a comptable stick of ram to swap in and out to fully test. I have two sticks in the computer at present and have removed each and tested them one by one to no luck. Quote from: overmind on JULY 29, 2010, 06:22:42 AM

...all I would get is a Long beep followed by three shorter beeps from the computer. This would repeat over and over whilst nothing would boot up - no image displayed on the screen - nothing...
From what I have found so far it appears to be saying that either:
1) the motherboard is dead
2) the graphics cards is dead
3) both components are dead...

You have analyzed it correctly; unlikely both graphics card and motherboard are dead. Do you have a dedicated graphics card, i.e. plugged into a slot, or is it "onboard"? It's not the hard drive, they don't cause beep codes. Even with no hard drive, you would still see something on the screen on a working computer.Its a dedicated graphics card (plugged into a slot kind). I did risk starting up the computer without the graphics card attached to see if the error sounds stopped or changed yet they remained the same. If its just the card that is dead that does make replacements a lot easier.

I guess the cheaper approach is to replace the card first and see if that works out or not. Of course price then comes into it as well as maintaining compatabilty. So that its a card that will work with my current board and yet take to a more modern board if/when I get a chance to upgrade.What is the interface (slot type) on the graphics card? PCI-e16 or AGP? There's pics in the links.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accelerated_Graphics_Port

Is this the motherboard? If, yes, it's PCI-e16, the blue one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131045
My thanks for the visual prompts and yes that looks exactly like the motherboard with the very same blue PCI-e16 slot.Asus is a good motherboard; I wouldn't give up on it yet. Virtually all PCI-Express16 graphics cards will work in that motherboard, if your power supply is big enough for the more powerful ones.

Here's one for $39, fan cooled, digital & analog outputs.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130313&cm_re=graphics_card_pci_express-_-14-130-313-_-Product

Had the similar problem occur on my Intel MB and it was the memory module.
Maybe go back and run the mem. stick check again.Computer_Commando has best ANSWER. Got buy a modest graphics card. Always a good investment for future diagnostics.Not a bad idea, but I'm really tempted to use this as an excuse to get a shiny new upgraded graphics card - that and Starcraft 2 sitting right infront of me (I've waited 10 years and now this is all that stand in my way!). I'll keep an eyeout for a card like the one linked though, if I can get one for around that price in the UK then I agree it would make a good cheap testing unit to start with and would at least let me get the basic rig back up and running. Not a bad THING just incase there is another problem present - no sense blowing all the money on a card only to find that I need another replacement component. Make sure the card meets/exceeds the Starcraft requirements or you will just be throwing good money after bad...If the cheap graphics card gets the computer running again (ie its the only problem) then I'll certainly be making a big upgrade to the graphics card To update the cheap card arrived in the post and the computer has powered up as normal. Not a single error beep or slowdown. So somewhere on the mass of graphics card I'm sure there is one little blown resistor or something!

So now the hunt begins for a new card! Quote from: overmind on August 03, 2010, 03:46:48 AM

To update the cheap card arrived in the post and the computer has powered up as normal. Not a single error beep or slowdown. So somewhere on the mass of graphics card I'm sure there is one little blown resistor or something!

So now the hunt begins for a new card!

Maybe you could ask Patio if he has...
any room left in his video card graveyard.

Discussion

11126.	Solve : Computer wont turn on and beeps??
Answer» I have a Dell Vostro 200 that has power, but won't turn on and beeps 6 times and then continues that beeping pattern. Also, both fans run, but one SOUNDS weird, would GREATLY appreciate any help.Check your bios manufacturer for beep codes. Quote from: Dodge13 on August 03, 2010, 08:23:44 AM I have a Dell Vostro 200 that has power, but won't turn on and beeps 6 times and then continues that beeping pattern. Also, both fans run, but one sounds weird, would greatly appreciate any help. Desktop or laptop? ANYWAY. if the CPU FAN is not spinning, computer will not turn on. I suspect the fan is choked with dust.Code repetitive short beeps Description Suggested Remedy 6 Beeps Video BIOS Test Failure Contact Dell. http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/vos200/en/slim_tower/om_en/pdf/PK009A01.pdf

11126.

Solve : Computer wont turn on and beeps??

Answer»

I have a Dell Vostro 200 that has power, but won't turn on and beeps 6 times and then continues that beeping pattern. Also, both fans run, but one SOUNDS weird, would GREATLY appreciate any help.Check your bios manufacturer for beep codes. Quote from: Dodge13 on August 03, 2010, 08:23:44 AM

I have a Dell Vostro 200 that has power, but won't turn on and beeps 6 times and then continues that beeping pattern. Also, both fans run, but one sounds weird, would greatly appreciate any help.

Desktop or laptop? ANYWAY. if the CPU FAN is not spinning, computer will not turn on. I suspect the fan is choked with dust.Code repetitive short beeps

Description Suggested Remedy

6 Beeps Video BIOS Test Failure Contact Dell.

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/vos200/en/slim_tower/om_en/pdf/PK009A01.pdf

Discussion

11127.	Solve : Looking For Laptop?
Answer» Hey I'm looking for a Windows 7 laptop capable of playing GAMES and also serve my work BASE purposes. I'm looking for one with a i7 processor, around 6GB ram. any ideas? And, No i dont want alienware Need more infoooo What is your budget? Are you already looking at any laptops? If so, which ones? Do you have a brand preference? What are some of the games you are going to be playing on it?Budget: $1200-$2200 I've Looked at the Dell XPS 16 and the HP Pavilion dv6-3032TX Notebook No brand preference except i don't wanna Alienware Looking to play games like GTA IV and other graphic intensive games$1200-2200 USD? Nice. A friend of MINE just bought a Dell Studio 15. Plays Modern Warfare pretty well.. http://reviews.cnet.com/laptops/dell-studio-15/4505-3121_7-33107339.html$1200-$2200 Australian Currency and i'm considering buying the Dell XPS 16 but are looking for similiar laptops with similiar specsTake a look at the Dell Precision lineup in the Dell business section. A bit more expensive but more powerful than the dimension or studio series. (you can get an i7 extreme edition cpu)Just found this article, published a few DAYS ago. http://gcn.com/Articles/2010/08/02/Review-of-Powerhouse-Notebooks.aspx?admgarea=TC_LABREVIEWS&Page=1 They look at and compare 6 powerful laptops and evaluate them against their PRICE. First place: Apple MacBook Pro 15". I concur with their assessment. Quote from: Kerjifire on August 03, 2010, 02:24:02 AM $1200-$2200 Australian Currency and i'm considering buying the Dell XPS 16 but are looking for similiar laptops with similiar specs $1200-$2200 Australian? whats that, about $50-$55 US?.....sorry, couldn't help myself (I'm an Aussie too, btw). Just out of curiosity, why the Alienware hatred? Quote from: thelaymanscomputer on August 06, 2010, 11:46:15 PM $1200-$2200 Australian? whats that, about $50-$55 US? Quote from: thelaymanscomputer on August 06, 2010, 11:46:15 PM $1200-$2200 Australian? whats that, about $50-$55 US?.....sorry, couldn't help myself (I'm an Aussie too, btw). Just out of curiosity, why the Alienware hatred? it'd look kinda weird carrying around alienware in my workplace A laptop is a laptop. Quote it'd look kinda weird carrying around alienware in my workplace Really? Is it so conservative? I wouldn't say 'conservative'.... Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 08, 2010, 07:04:46 AM A laptop is a laptop. Except when it's a "labtop" or a "lapatop".

11127.

Solve : Looking For Laptop?

Answer»

Hey I'm looking for a Windows 7 laptop capable of playing GAMES and also serve my work BASE purposes. I'm looking for one with a i7 processor, around 6GB ram. any ideas? And, No i dont want alienware Need more infoooo

What is your budget?
Are you already looking at any laptops? If so, which ones?
Do you have a brand preference?
What are some of the games you are going to be playing on it?Budget: $1200-$2200

I've Looked at the Dell XPS 16 and the HP Pavilion dv6-3032TX Notebook

No brand preference except i don't wanna Alienware

Looking to play games like GTA IV and other graphic intensive games$1200-2200 USD? Nice.

A friend of MINE just bought a Dell Studio 15. Plays Modern Warfare pretty well..

http://reviews.cnet.com/laptops/dell-studio-15/4505-3121_7-33107339.html$1200-$2200 Australian Currency and i'm considering buying the Dell XPS 16 but are looking for similiar laptops with similiar specsTake a look at the Dell Precision lineup in the Dell business section. A bit more expensive but more powerful than the dimension or studio series. (you can get an i7 extreme edition cpu)Just found this article, published a few DAYS ago.

http://gcn.com/Articles/2010/08/02/Review-of-Powerhouse-Notebooks.aspx?admgarea=TC_LABREVIEWS&Page=1

They look at and compare 6 powerful laptops and evaluate them against their PRICE. First place: Apple MacBook Pro 15".
I concur with their assessment. Quote from: Kerjifire on August 03, 2010, 02:24:02 AM

$1200-$2200 Australian Currency and i'm considering buying the Dell XPS 16 but are looking for similiar laptops with similiar specs

$1200-$2200 Australian? whats that, about $50-$55 US?.....sorry, couldn't help myself (I'm an Aussie too, btw). Just out of curiosity, why the Alienware hatred? Quote from: thelaymanscomputer on August 06, 2010, 11:46:15 PM

$1200-$2200 Australian? whats that, about $50-$55 US?

Quote from: thelaymanscomputer on August 06, 2010, 11:46:15 PM

$1200-$2200 Australian? whats that, about $50-$55 US?.....sorry, couldn't help myself (I'm an Aussie too, btw). Just out of curiosity, why the Alienware hatred?

it'd look kinda weird carrying around alienware in my workplace A laptop is a laptop. Quote

it'd look kinda weird carrying around alienware in my workplace

Really? Is it so conservative?

I wouldn't say 'conservative'....

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 08, 2010, 07:04:46 AM

A laptop is a laptop.

Except when it's a "labtop" or a "lapatop".

Discussion

11128.	Solve : speakers do not work?
Answer» cyber acoustics 2200 computer speakers... i bought them seperate from my computer and they work when my ipod is plugged in but not for my computer.. im guessing i need some sort of audio DRIVER ? how do i download one or update my CURRENT driver if thats what i need? could use any help thanks alot.Need more information about the computer, LIKE a brand and model number or model of sound card... SOMETHING... There isn't a general driver for all sound cards, so without this information there's not much we can tell you.Go to the website of your sound card manufacturer and download and install the current driver for your particular card. If you don't know which card you have, go to Device Manager and check - or you can download and run Belarc Advisor to see what HARDWARE you have.

Discussion

11129.	Solve : Black screen after starting 900HD netbook?
Answer» I have an Asus 900hd netbook that I just bought from someone a couple weeks ago. I somehow managed to get a virus on it and I don't have an external CD drive to reinstall the OS so I figured I would TRY putting the OS on a USB FLASH drive and installing it off of there with the USB as a bootable device. So I changed the boot sequence to boot the removable device(USB) as the first priority. After doing that I restarted my netbook and it shows the BIOS like its about to boot but then I just get a black screen with a little white line at the top then it doesn't boot at all, just a black screen. So I tried changing the boot sequence back to its original state, with the HDD first but I still get the black screen >.&LT; The OS currently on it is windows xp home edition, and the one I'm trying to put on it is windows xp corporate edition Trying to to get Windows XP install to boot from a USB is hard. Don't yup have a friend that will loan you an external CD drive? Do you have a Desktop PC with a CD-drive... that will volunteer to be externalized? OR You can get a good one for under $50 in the USA. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=483&Nav=\|c:89\|&Sort=3&Recs=10&SRCCODE=WEBGOOCDVD&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCECjCE (I do not endorse Tiger Direct. The link is for informational purpose.) Thee are articles on the MS website that tell how to install NT and similar version of Windows without a CD drive. OR How to install Windows without a CD drive - Google search results Hope this is of some help.Thanks for the reply unfortunately I don't know anyone with an external cd drive......and I've tried almost every method of installing from USB and none of them work =( My desktop motherboard fried a couple months ago but I still have the CD drive, I wasn't aware that they can be externalized. How would I go about doing that? Can I use it by itself or do I need a WORKING desktop?Yes, you can externalize a working CD-Drive. it needs two things. A small power supply that provides 5 and 12 volts Ana adapter that will convert IDE / SATA to USB. USB to IDE Converter Adapter power - eBay.com These are cheap, but if you are careful they will do the job. DO NOT plug in or out with the power on. They not 'hot SWAP', you can damage a drive or theadapter. Only the USB is fool proof. I have ruined about three adopters and one drive. Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 07, 2010, 05:10:34 PM I have ruined about three adopters and one drive. Early adopters? Quote from: Salmon Trout on August 07, 2010, 05:28:22 PM Early adopters? Yep.

11129.

Solve : Black screen after starting 900HD netbook?

Answer»

I have an Asus 900hd netbook that I just bought from someone a couple weeks ago. I somehow managed to get a virus on it and I don't have an external CD drive to reinstall the OS so I figured I would TRY putting the OS on a USB FLASH drive and installing it off of there with the USB as a bootable device. So I changed the boot sequence to boot the removable device(USB) as the first priority. After doing that I restarted my netbook and it shows the BIOS like its about to boot but then I just get a black screen with a little white line at the top then it doesn't boot at all, just a black screen. So I tried changing the boot sequence back to its original state, with the HDD first but I still get the black screen >.&LT; The OS currently on it is windows xp home edition, and the one I'm trying to put on it is windows xp corporate edition Trying to to get Windows XP install to boot from a USB is hard.
Don't yup have a friend that will loan you an external CD drive?
Do you have a Desktop PC with a CD-drive...
that will volunteer to be externalized?
OR
You can get a good one for under $50 in the USA.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=483&Nav=|c:89|&Sort=3&Recs=10&SRCCODE=WEBGOOCDVD&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCECjCE

(I do not endorse Tiger Direct. The link is for informational purpose.)

Thee are articles on the MS website that tell how to install NT and similar version of Windows without a CD drive.
OR

How to install Windows without a CD drive
- Google search results
Hope this is of some help.Thanks for the reply unfortunately I don't know anyone with an external cd drive......and I've tried almost every method of installing from USB and none of them work =( My desktop motherboard fried a couple months ago but I still have the CD drive, I wasn't aware that they can be externalized. How would I go about doing that? Can I use it by itself or do I need a WORKING desktop?Yes, you can externalize a working CD-Drive.
it needs two things.
A small power supply that provides 5 and 12 volts
Ana adapter that will convert IDE / SATA to USB.

USB to IDE Converter Adapter power - eBay.com

These are cheap, but if you are careful they will do the job. DO NOT plug in or out with the power on. They not 'hot SWAP', you can damage a drive or theadapter. Only the USB is fool proof.

I have ruined about three adopters and one drive.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 07, 2010, 05:10:34 PM

I have ruined about three adopters and one drive.

Early adopters?
Quote from: Salmon Trout on August 07, 2010, 05:28:22 PM

Early adopters?

Yep.

Discussion

11130.	Solve : CAN'T SEE EXTERNAL DRIVE AFTER XP RELOAD?
Answer» I've just recently backed up a friend's laptop to a Maxtor USB external drive so that we could reload Windows XP. Now the external drive doesn't show up on the Start Menu. I've check the Seagate site and it looks like the drive has been 'goosed'. Is there any recovery? ArtWhat do you mean it doesn't show on the Start Menu? Open Windows Explorer. Is the driver there?Allan If I right click the Start BUTTON and 'Explore' the drive is missing. If I go into Control panel/System/Device drivers it is listed under 'disk drives'. If I double cick on the drive it says it is working normally but if I then go to 'Volumes' all the fields are blank. ArtDoes it show up in Disk Management (Start-Run-diskmgmt.msc)? If so, does it show as available?Allan, It shows as 'Unallocated' ArtThen it was probably unplugged without using the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon... Unfortunately the end result of this most times is a total loss of data... You could try and run Recuva on it to see if ANYTHING is salvageable...No it remained connected all the time I was loading. ArtI've downloaded Recuva but it can only 'see' drive C ArtYeah. Unfortunately "unallocated" MEANS unformatted. I'm not sure what happened, but as far as your system is concerned the drive needs to be formatted (and of course if there IS anything on the drive, formatting will completely erase it). Quote from: patio on July 20, 2010, 08:54:05 AM Then it was probably unplugged without using the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon... Patio, I don't believe that would cause the drive to show up as "unallocated" - but I could be mistaken.AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!! My worst fears realised. Seagate did say that this could happen and then offered recovery software for $129. ArtThat's nice of them. Ask them if it will work if the system cannot see the drive and if you can get a refund if it doesn't work. Quote from: Allan on July 20, 2010, 09:10:55 AM Patio, I don't believe that would cause the drive to show up as "unallocated" - but I could be mistaken. Usually it will show as "RAW" when this happens...however i did see this this year on a client's machine....and she had admitted to just unplugging it and moving it to another machine without EVEN powering it down...i wasn't there so i cannot say with 100% accuracy...

11130.

Solve : CAN'T SEE EXTERNAL DRIVE AFTER XP RELOAD?

Answer»

I've just recently backed up a friend's laptop to a Maxtor USB external drive so that we could reload Windows XP. Now the external drive doesn't show up on the Start Menu. I've check the Seagate site and it looks like the drive has been 'goosed'. Is there any recovery?

ArtWhat do you mean it doesn't show on the Start Menu? Open Windows Explorer. Is the driver there?Allan

If I right click the Start BUTTON and 'Explore' the drive is missing. If I go into Control panel/System/Device drivers it is listed under 'disk drives'. If I double cick on the drive it says it is working normally but if I then go to 'Volumes' all the fields are blank.

ArtDoes it show up in Disk Management (Start-Run-diskmgmt.msc)? If so, does it show as available?Allan,

It shows as 'Unallocated'

ArtThen it was probably unplugged without using the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon...

Unfortunately the end result of this most times is a total loss of data...

You could try and run Recuva on it to see if ANYTHING is salvageable...No it remained connected all the time I was loading.

ArtI've downloaded Recuva but it can only 'see' drive C

ArtYeah. Unfortunately "unallocated" MEANS unformatted. I'm not sure what happened, but as far as your system is concerned the drive needs to be formatted (and of course if there IS anything on the drive, formatting will completely erase it). Quote from: patio on July 20, 2010, 08:54:05 AM

Then it was probably unplugged without using the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon...

Patio, I don't believe that would cause the drive to show up as "unallocated" - but I could be mistaken.AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!

My worst fears realised. Seagate did say that this could happen and then offered recovery software for $129.

ArtThat's nice of them. Ask them if it will work if the system cannot see the drive and if you can get a refund if it doesn't work. Quote from: Allan on July 20, 2010, 09:10:55 AM

Patio, I don't believe that would cause the drive to show up as "unallocated" - but I could be mistaken.

Usually it will show as "RAW" when this happens...however i did see this this year on a client's machine....and she had admitted to just unplugging it and moving it to another machine without EVEN powering it down...i wasn't there so i cannot say with 100% accuracy...

Discussion

11131.	Solve : No display on monitor after RAM upgrade!!!?
Answer» Hi. I have an Asus m4a785td-v evo mobo that has 4 64-bit DDR3-DIMM slots. I currently have 2x 1GB sticks of Kingston DDR3-1066 (PC8500) in the A2 and B2 memory slots. I just bought two more to fill up the REST of the slots, but the display doesnt work. The case will run, like the fans will start going and the lights will come on, but on the monitor it SAYS, "No Signal" and then the monitor turns off, but the case runs like there's not a problem. Even if i only add one of the sticks the problem still happens. If I take out the extra sticks so it's back to the current amount of 2GBs, everything will work fine and normal. I just got the new RAM today and this is the first TIME this has happened to me. All help is appreciated. ThxYou need to double check if that RAM is the same flavor and has the correct timing speeds... What Brand is it ? ?He's right...... i ran into a problem like this before, i only looked at the type of ram, they were correct but the bus speeds were wrong. I got it off of newegg. It's Kingston ValueRAM DDR3 1066(PC8500) RAM. It's the same exact RAM as what I already had, I just intended on adding more of it to fill up the rest of my open slots on the motherboard. The timing is 7-7-7, CAS Latency is 7. I heard from a friend that sometimes you have to update or change a setting in the BIOS, but I couldn't figure out what setting.Are you putting the matched PAIRS in the same color slots?Haha... I figured it out! I had them in the correct slots and all, but I guess one of my memory sticks is defective. It was actually one I was already using apparently. I was WONDERING why in AMD OD it was saying my RAM was running single channel and why it was only detecting 1GB. Thanks for the help guys.

Discussion

11132.	Solve : Nvidia geforce 7300 LE overclock?
Answer» what is the maximum speed/ memory (mb/mhz) that i should use with a geforce 7300 le without worrying about screwing it up or overheating it?If you have any concerns that outweigh your thoughts over this, then don't bother. Doubt very much that a lower end card like this will go that far and also probably fry itself on ANYTHING but a very modest OC, Limited Edition or not, imo. Try Rivatuner if you are serious and take into consideration what will be cooling it.There isn't a magic number beyond which your card will die. Keep an eye on your temperatures - although with a low end card like that you shouldn't have temp ISSUES - and clock it up until it's unstable, then back off. Simple. You do realise that overclockig a card like that won't yield much benefit?Yeah, but with a lower end card, the frequency's are still going to be stock and a bit. Higher up it will become unstable more quickly. Unless being a fabled chipset, it is not worth it. "Stock and a bit" meaning stock, plus an overclock ... ? Not quite following you here, sorry.For a low end card, i wouldnt take the RISK overclocking it. you will probably burn it out. Dont risk it, buy a better one Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on July 31, 2010, 04:12:19 PM For a low end card, i wouldnt take the risk overclocking it. you will probably burn it out. Dont risk it, buy a better one Sorry, but I'm failing to see the logic here. Quote from: Calum on August 01, 2010, 03:34:42 AM Sorry, but I'm failing to see the logic here. You only have to read COMMENTS above Calum, i ment, overclocking a low end card might damage it, in my opinion. Regards Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on August 01, 2010, 05:54:37 AM You only have to read comments above Calum, i ment, overclocking a low end card might damage it, in my opinion. Regards The risk of damage is not because it's a "low end card" but rather because a low end card is more likely to have a less then sufficient cooler for overclocking. For example my Radeon 7000 is rather low end, and it uses a passive cooler. needless to say it didn't even survive at factory clock settings. Quote from: Calum on July 30, 2010, 03:44:10 AM "Stock and a bit" meaning stock, plus an overclock ... ? Not quite following you here, sorry. Yeah sorry, that was my WAY if differentiating between a modest OC and one considered a high OC. Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on August 01, 2010, 05:54:37 AM You only have to read comments above Calum, i ment, overclocking a low end card might damage it, in my opinion. You're either not reading what I'm saying, or not reading your own responses. Also, the only way I can imagine a card being damaged by overclocking is somehow managing to stably boost the core clock to the point that the card catastrophically overheats, but logically that's almost impossible, especially with semi-modern cards.

11132.

Solve : Nvidia geforce 7300 LE overclock?

Answer»

what is the maximum speed/ memory (mb/mhz) that i should use with a geforce 7300 le without worrying about screwing it up or overheating it?If you have any concerns that outweigh your thoughts over this, then don't bother. Doubt very much that a lower end card like this will go that far and also probably fry itself on ANYTHING but a very modest OC, Limited Edition or not, imo. Try Rivatuner if you are serious and take into consideration what will be cooling it.There isn't a magic number beyond which your card will die. Keep an eye on your temperatures - although with a low end card like that you shouldn't have temp ISSUES - and clock it up until it's unstable, then back off. Simple.
You do realise that overclockig a card like that won't yield much benefit?Yeah, but with a lower end card, the frequency's are still going to be stock and a bit. Higher up it will become unstable more quickly. Unless being a fabled chipset, it is not worth it. "Stock and a bit" meaning stock, plus an overclock ... ?
Not quite following you here, sorry.For a low end card, i wouldnt take the RISK overclocking it. you will probably burn it out. Dont risk it, buy a better one Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on July 31, 2010, 04:12:19 PM

For a low end card, i wouldnt take the risk overclocking it. you will probably burn it out. Dont risk it, buy a better one

Sorry, but I'm failing to see the logic here. Quote from: Calum on August 01, 2010, 03:34:42 AM

Sorry, but I'm failing to see the logic here.

You only have to read COMMENTS above Calum, i ment, overclocking a low end card might damage it, in my opinion.
Regards Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on August 01, 2010, 05:54:37 AM

You only have to read comments above Calum, i ment, overclocking a low end card might damage it, in my opinion.
Regards

The risk of damage is not because it's a "low end card" but rather because a low end card is more likely to have a less then sufficient cooler for overclocking. For example my Radeon 7000 is rather low end, and it uses a passive cooler. needless to say it didn't even survive at factory clock settings. Quote from: Calum on July 30, 2010, 03:44:10 AM

"Stock and a bit" meaning stock, plus an overclock ... ?
Not quite following you here, sorry.

Yeah sorry, that was my WAY if differentiating between a modest OC and one considered a high OC. Quote from: Thomas_Horscroft on August 01, 2010, 05:54:37 AM

You only have to read comments above Calum, i ment, overclocking a low end card might damage it, in my opinion.

You're either not reading what I'm saying, or not reading your own responses.
Also, the only way I can imagine a card being damaged by overclocking is somehow managing to stably boost the core clock to the point that the card catastrophically overheats, but logically that's almost impossible, especially with semi-modern cards.

Discussion

11133.	Solve : My E: Drive (CD/DVD Writer) is missing.?
Answer» Computer Info: Microsoft Windows XP Media Center Edition Version 2002 Service Pack 2 HP AMD Turion 64 X2 Mobile 1.61 GHz, 960 MB RAM Total Memory Capacity: 99.2 G The hard drive is a Toshiba MK1234GSX I put this in the hardware forum, although my instinct is that it is most likely a registry issue. I'm not sure when the problem began because I don't necessarily use my CD/DVD writer a lot, but recently I wanted to burn some video to a blank DVD and I realized that my E: drive was gone. This has happened before a long time ago but the old fixes that worked then are not working now. The upper/lower filters thing will not work (they're not even there in my registry). My E: drive is not listed under My Computer, nor is it listed under the device manager - there is not even a menu for CD/DVD Drives at all. If I go under Computer Management>Storage>Disk Management I see my C: drive, my D: drive (which is a recovery partition), and then a partition labelled "1.00 GB NTFS HEALTHY (Unknown Partition)." I cannot assign a drive LETTER or do anything to the unknown partition - the only option available is to DELETE it. Additionally, it says that of the 1 GB, there is 48 MB of free space. If I try scanning for new hardware, it is to no avail. I have run CCleaner and WISE Registry Cleaner, along with two virus scanners. System restore does not restore my CD/DVD drive. Hardware wise, everything SOUNDS normal. It open and closes normally, the light blinks normally, and I can hear everything moving like the disc wants to run, but Windows doesn't notice. My CD/DVD drive is also recognized by the BIOS. I've made it a habit to check for the E: drive when I start the computer, and sometimes (rarely) it does appear. It is only listed as a CD drive in these instances, and usually I still can't burn anything to DVD (the presence of the "Record" tab notwithstanding). I know Roxio software can cause this problem, so I did everything I could to wipe my computer of that (including entries in the registry). I also deleted Nero, in case that was causing an issue, and while I was less involved in making sure all traces of that are gone, I did use Revo Uninstaller Pro to GET rid of it. In the registry under HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\CD Burning (hitting the + sign by CD Burning) I see folders for AudioBurnHandlers and ExcludedFS. I don't remember seeing those before and I'm not sure if they were added by Roxio or some other software. I am afraid to outright delete them in case they are vital. Are there any other register repairing programs I can use that will clean up unwanted entries? Or any other suggestions as toward recovering my E: drive, short of formatting my hard drive? Thank you for any tips!DO NOT use registry cleaners. Ever. Did you recently install iTunes by any chance?No I have never installed iTunes.Okay. Let's make sure the drive works. Please insert a BOOTABLE disc and make sure the drive is the first item in the bios boot order. Reboot. Does the system boot to the disc?

Discussion

11134.	Solve : RAM MHZ question?
Answer» I have a ASUS P6t V2 DELUZ and Im running a i7 920 with Kingston 1600mhz memory. I seem to be only getting 800mhz out of it. Im posting a dialogue of what my computer says. Can someone help me interpret this? Ice used CUP-Z and cut out all the other info. Thanks Processor 1 ID = 0 Number of cores 4 (max Number of threads 8 (max 16) Name Intel Core i7 920 CODENAME Bloomfield Specification Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 2.67GHz Chipset ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Northbridge Intel X58 rev. 12 Southbridge Intel 82801JR (ICH10R) rev. 00 Graphic Interface PCI-Express PCI-E Link Width x16 PCI-E Max Link Width x16 Memory Type DDR3 Memory Size 6144 MBytes Channels Triple Memory Frequency 803.3 MHz (2:12) CAS# latency (CL) 9.0 RAS# to CAS# delay (tRCD) 9 RAS# Precharge (tRP) 9 Cycle Time (tRAS) 24 Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) 88 Command Rate (CR) 1T Uncore Frequency 3213.3 MHz Memory SPD ------------------------------------------------------------------------- DIMM # 1 SMBus address 0x50 Memory type DDR3 Module format UDIMM Manufacturer (ID) Kingston (7F98000000000000) Size 2048 MBytes Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz) Part number 9905403-084.A01LF Serial number 912B7E39 MANUFACTURING date Week 16/Year 10 Number of banks 8 Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts EPP no XMP yes XMP revision 1.2 JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC frequency JEDEC #1 6.0-6-6-17-23 457 MHz JEDEC #2 7.0-7-7-20-27 533 MHz JEDEC #3 8.0-8-8-22-30 609 MHz JEDEC #4 9.0-9-9-25-34 685 MHz XMP profile XMP-1600 Specification PC3-12800 Voltage level 1.650 Volts Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz) Min tRP 11.25 ns Min tRCD 11.25 ns Min tWR 15.00 ns Min tRAS 33.75 ns Min tRC 45.00 ns Min tRFC 110.00 ns Min tRTP 7.50 ns Min tRRD 6.00 ns XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR frequency (voltage) XMP #1 6.0-6-6-18-24-0T 533 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #2 7.0-7-7-21-28-0T 622 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #3 8.0-8-8-24-32-0T 711 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #4 9.0-9-9-27-36-0T 800 MHz (1.650 Volts) DIMM # 2 SMBus address 0x52 Memory type DDR3 Module format UDIMM Manufacturer (ID) Kingston (7F98000000000000) Size 2048 MBytes Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz) Part number 9905403-084.A01LF Serial number 912B7008 Manufacturing date Week 16/Year 10 Number of banks 8 Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts EPP no XMP yes XMP revision 1.2 JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC frequency JEDEC #1 6.0-6-6-17-23 457 MHz JEDEC #2 7.0-7-7-20-27 533 MHz JEDEC #3 8.0-8-8-22-30 609 MHz JEDEC #4 9.0-9-9-25-34 685 MHz XMP profile XMP-1600 Specification PC3-12800 Voltage level 1.650 Volts Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz) Min tRP 11.25 ns Min tRCD 11.25 ns Min tWR 15.00 ns Min tRAS 33.75 ns Min tRC 45.00 ns Min tRFC 110.00 ns Min tRTP 7.50 ns Min tRRD 6.00 ns XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR frequency (voltage) XMP #1 6.0-6-6-18-24-0T 533 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #2 7.0-7-7-21-28-0T 622 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #3 8.0-8-8-24-32-0T 711 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #4 9.0-9-9-27-36-0T 800 MHz (1.650 Volts) DIMM # 3 SMBus address 0x54 Memory type DDR3 Module format UDIMM Manufacturer (ID) Kingston (7F98000000000000) Size 2048 MBytes Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz) Part number 9905403-084.A01LF Serial number 922B7B39 Manufacturing date Week 16/Year 10 Number of banks 8 Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts EPP no XMP yes XMP revision 1.2 JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC frequency JEDEC #1 6.0-6-6-17-23 457 MHz JEDEC #2 7.0-7-7-20-27 533 MHz JEDEC #3 8.0-8-8-22-30 609 MHz JEDEC #4 9.0-9-9-25-34 685 MHz XMP profile XMP-1600 Specification PC3-12800 Voltage level 1.650 Volts Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz) Min tRP 11.25 ns Min tRCD 11.25 ns Min tWR 15.00 ns Min tRAS 33.75 ns Min tRC 45.00 ns Min tRFC 110.00 ns Min tRTP 7.50 ns Min tRRD 6.00 ns XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR frequency (voltage) XMP #1 6.0-6-6-18-24-0T 533 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #2 7.0-7-7-21-28-0T 622 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #3 8.0-8-8-24-32-0T 711 MHz (1.650 Volts) XMP #4 9.0-9-9-27-36-0T 800 MHz (1.650 Volts) DIMM # 1 SPD registers 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F 00 92 10 0B 02 02 11 00 09 03 52 01 08 0C 00 3C 00 10 69 78 69 30 69 11 20 89 70 03 3C 3C 00 F0 83 81 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 30 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 11 01 01 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 50 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 70 00 00 00 00 00 01 98 04 10 16 91 2B 7E 39 AB A7 80 39 39 30 35 34 30 33 2D 30 38 34 2E 41 30 31 4C 90 46 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 A0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 B0 0C 4A 01 12 01 08 00 00 00 2D 0A 5A 3C 00 50 5A C0 5A 78 11 0E 68 3F 00 70 03 3C 30 00 F0 3C 00 00 D0 00 00 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 E0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 5A DIMM # 2 SPD registers 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F 00 92 10 0B 02 02 11 00 09 03 52 01 08 0C 00 3C 00 10 69 78 69 30 69 11 20 89 70 03 3C 3C 00 F0 83 81 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 30 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 11 01 01 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 50 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 70 00 00 00 00 00 01 98 04 10 16 91 2B 70 08 AB A7 80 39 39 30 35 34 30 33 2D 30 38 34 2E 41 30 31 4C 90 46 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 A0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 B0 0C 4A 01 12 01 08 00 00 00 2D 0A 5A 3C 00 50 5A C0 5A 78 11 0E 68 3F 00 70 03 3C 30 00 F0 3C 00 00 D0 00 00 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 E0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 5A DIMM # 3 SPD registers 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F 00 92 10 0B 02 02 11 00 09 03 52 01 08 0C 00 3C 00 10 69 78 69 30 69 11 20 89 70 03 3C 3C 00 F0 83 81 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 30 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 11 01 01 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 50 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 70 00 00 00 00 00 01 98 04 10 16 92 2B 7B 39 AB A7 80 39 39 30 35 34 30 33 2D 30 38 34 2E 41 30 31 4C 90 46 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 A0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 B0 0C 4A 01 12 01 08 00 00 00 2D 0A 5A 3C 00 50 5A C0 5A 78 11 0E 68 3F 00 70 03 3C 30 00 F0 3C 00 00 D0 00 00 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 E0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 5A Monitoring ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mainboard Model P6T DELUXE V2 (0x00000369 - 0x48BB1AF2 Thanks, PatrickYour MBoard has a bus speed of 800MHZ... Therefore that is what speed the RAM will run at even thought the RAM's speed is 1600MHZ.The RAM is DDR - double data rate. Well, DDR3, but the number isn't important for this. DDR means that your RAM is running at a clock speed of 800MHz, doubled to 1600. In other words, this is normal. Hope this helps.Im TRYING buffalo firestick inferno 1600mhz 7-7-7-20 downclocked to 1066mhz 7-7-7-20 at 1.65v because it needs 2.1v to run at 1600mhz. The rig is performing better than with kingston 1600mhz 9-9-9-24. Does this sound right?Performng better, as determined by what?well, im measuring that subjectively, im simply determining that by its performance in .,....games. It seems smoother and has a generally higher frame rate.Well, looser or tighter timings are difficult to state what is best. Depends on what CPU and how as model that performs for you. Tighter timings allow less time for instrutions in Ram to be processed on the rise and fall. IE forced through with the minimum of CC's used. Or you loosen the timings for more breathing room. Will take an extra cycle or two but usually unnoticeable as it were. Normal practise would be to loosen the timings and tighten up when you are trying to find the sweet spot for system operation Quote from: pcjoseph1974 on August 01, 2010, 08:54:30 AM well, im measuring that subjectively, im simply determining that by its performance in .,....games. It seems smoother and has a generally higher frame rate. You're the only person I know that can see the difference in gaming. Hey, if it works for you ... Timings and clock speed is a tradeoff. Both affect latency and bandwidth. There are very few times that either will have a noticeable affect.

11134.

Solve : RAM MHZ question?

Answer»

I have a ASUS P6t V2 DELUZ and Im running a i7 920 with Kingston 1600mhz memory. I seem to be only getting 800mhz out of it. Im posting a dialogue of what my computer says. Can someone help me interpret this? Ice used CUP-Z and cut out all the other info.

Thanks

Processor 1         ID = 0
   Number of cores      4 (max
   Number of threads   8 (max 16)
   Name         Intel Core i7 920
   CODENAME      Bloomfield
   Specification      Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 2.67GHz

Chipset
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Northbridge         Intel X58 rev. 12
Southbridge         Intel 82801JR (ICH10R) rev. 00
Graphic Interface      PCI-Express
PCI-E Link Width      x16
PCI-E Max Link Width      x16
Memory Type         DDR3
Memory Size         6144 MBytes
Channels         Triple
Memory Frequency      803.3 MHz (2:12)
CAS# latency (CL)      9.0
RAS# to CAS# delay (tRCD)   9
RAS# Precharge (tRP)      9
Cycle Time (tRAS)      24
Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)   88
Command Rate (CR)      1T
Uncore Frequency      3213.3 MHz

Memory SPD
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

DIMM #            1
   SMBus address      0x50
   Memory type      DDR3
   Module format      UDIMM
   Manufacturer (ID)   Kingston (7F98000000000000)
   Size         2048 MBytes
   Max bandwidth      PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
   Part number      9905403-084.A01LF
   Serial number      912B7E39
   MANUFACTURING date   Week 16/Year 10
   Number of banks      8
   Nominal Voltage      1.50 Volts
   EPP         no
   XMP         yes
   XMP revision      1.2
JEDEC timings table      CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC frequency
   JEDEC #1      6.0-6-6-17-23 457 MHz
   JEDEC #2      7.0-7-7-20-27 533 MHz
   JEDEC #3      8.0-8-8-22-30 609 MHz
   JEDEC #4      9.0-9-9-25-34 685 MHz
XMP profile         XMP-1600
   Specification      PC3-12800
   Voltage level      1.650 Volts
   Min Cycle time      1.250 ns (800 MHz)
   Min tRP         11.25 ns
   Min tRCD      11.25 ns
   Min tWR         15.00 ns
   Min tRAS      33.75 ns
   Min tRC         45.00 ns
   Min tRFC      110.00 ns
   Min tRTP      7.50 ns
   Min tRRD      6.00 ns
XMP timings table      CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR frequency (voltage)
   XMP #1         6.0-6-6-18-24-0T 533 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #2         7.0-7-7-21-28-0T 622 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #3         8.0-8-8-24-32-0T 711 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #4         9.0-9-9-27-36-0T 800 MHz (1.650 Volts)

DIMM #            2
   SMBus address      0x52
   Memory type      DDR3
   Module format      UDIMM
   Manufacturer (ID)   Kingston (7F98000000000000)
   Size         2048 MBytes
   Max bandwidth      PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
   Part number      9905403-084.A01LF
   Serial number      912B7008
   Manufacturing date   Week 16/Year 10
   Number of banks      8
   Nominal Voltage      1.50 Volts
   EPP         no
   XMP         yes
   XMP revision      1.2
JEDEC timings table      CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC frequency
   JEDEC #1      6.0-6-6-17-23 457 MHz
   JEDEC #2      7.0-7-7-20-27 533 MHz
   JEDEC #3      8.0-8-8-22-30 609 MHz
   JEDEC #4      9.0-9-9-25-34 685 MHz
XMP profile         XMP-1600
   Specification      PC3-12800
   Voltage level      1.650 Volts
   Min Cycle time      1.250 ns (800 MHz)
   Min tRP         11.25 ns
   Min tRCD      11.25 ns
   Min tWR         15.00 ns
   Min tRAS      33.75 ns
   Min tRC         45.00 ns
   Min tRFC      110.00 ns
   Min tRTP      7.50 ns
   Min tRRD      6.00 ns
XMP timings table      CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR frequency (voltage)
   XMP #1         6.0-6-6-18-24-0T 533 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #2         7.0-7-7-21-28-0T 622 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #3         8.0-8-8-24-32-0T 711 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #4         9.0-9-9-27-36-0T 800 MHz (1.650 Volts)

DIMM #            3
   SMBus address      0x54
   Memory type      DDR3
   Module format      UDIMM
   Manufacturer (ID)   Kingston (7F98000000000000)
   Size         2048 MBytes
   Max bandwidth      PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
   Part number      9905403-084.A01LF
   Serial number      922B7B39
   Manufacturing date   Week 16/Year 10
   Number of banks      8
   Nominal Voltage      1.50 Volts
   EPP         no
   XMP         yes
   XMP revision      1.2
JEDEC timings table      CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC frequency
   JEDEC #1      6.0-6-6-17-23 457 MHz
   JEDEC #2      7.0-7-7-20-27 533 MHz
   JEDEC #3      8.0-8-8-22-30 609 MHz
   JEDEC #4      9.0-9-9-25-34 685 MHz
XMP profile         XMP-1600
   Specification      PC3-12800
   Voltage level      1.650 Volts
   Min Cycle time      1.250 ns (800 MHz)
   Min tRP         11.25 ns
   Min tRCD      11.25 ns
   Min tWR         15.00 ns
   Min tRAS      33.75 ns
   Min tRC         45.00 ns
   Min tRFC      110.00 ns
   Min tRTP      7.50 ns
   Min tRRD      6.00 ns
XMP timings table      CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR frequency (voltage)
   XMP #1         6.0-6-6-18-24-0T 533 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #2         7.0-7-7-21-28-0T 622 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #3         8.0-8-8-24-32-0T 711 MHz (1.650 Volts)
   XMP #4         9.0-9-9-27-36-0T 800 MHz (1.650 Volts)

DIMM #            1
SPD registers
      00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
   00   92 10 0B 02 02 11 00 09 03 52 01 08 0C 00 3C 00
   10   69 78 69 30 69 11 20 89 70 03 3C 3C 00 F0 83 81
   20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 11 01 01
   40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   70   00 00 00 00 00 01 98 04 10 16 91 2B 7E 39 AB A7
   80   39 39 30 35 34 30 33 2D 30 38 34 2E 41 30 31 4C
   90   46 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   B0   0C 4A 01 12 01 08 00 00 00 2D 0A 5A 3C 00 50 5A
   C0   5A 78 11 0E 68 3F 00 70 03 3C 30 00 F0 3C 00 00
   D0   00 00 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 5A

DIMM #            2
SPD registers
      00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
   00   92 10 0B 02 02 11 00 09 03 52 01 08 0C 00 3C 00
   10   69 78 69 30 69 11 20 89 70 03 3C 3C 00 F0 83 81
   20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 11 01 01
   40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   70   00 00 00 00 00 01 98 04 10 16 91 2B 70 08 AB A7
   80   39 39 30 35 34 30 33 2D 30 38 34 2E 41 30 31 4C
   90   46 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   B0   0C 4A 01 12 01 08 00 00 00 2D 0A 5A 3C 00 50 5A
   C0   5A 78 11 0E 68 3F 00 70 03 3C 30 00 F0 3C 00 00
   D0   00 00 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 5A

DIMM #            3
SPD registers
      00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
   00   92 10 0B 02 02 11 00 09 03 52 01 08 0C 00 3C 00
   10   69 78 69 30 69 11 20 89 70 03 3C 3C 00 F0 83 81
   20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 11 01 01
   40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   70   00 00 00 00 00 01 98 04 10 16 92 2B 7B 39 AB A7
   80   39 39 30 35 34 30 33 2D 30 38 34 2E 41 30 31 4C
   90   46 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   B0   0C 4A 01 12 01 08 00 00 00 2D 0A 5A 3C 00 50 5A
   C0   5A 78 11 0E 68 3F 00 70 03 3C 30 00 F0 3C 00 00
   D0   00 00 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
   F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 5A

Monitoring
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mainboard Model      P6T DELUXE V2 (0x00000369 - 0x48BB1AF2

Thanks,

PatrickYour MBoard has a bus speed of 800MHZ...
Therefore that is what speed the RAM will run at even thought the RAM's speed is 1600MHZ.The RAM is DDR - double data rate. Well, DDR3, but the number isn't important for this. DDR means that your RAM is running at a clock speed of 800MHz, doubled to 1600.
In other words, this is normal.
Hope this helps.Im TRYING buffalo firestick inferno 1600mhz 7-7-7-20 downclocked to 1066mhz 7-7-7-20 at 1.65v because it needs 2.1v to run at 1600mhz. The rig is performing better than with kingston 1600mhz 9-9-9-24. Does this sound right?Performng better, as determined by what?well, im measuring that subjectively, im simply determining that by its performance in .,....games. It seems smoother and has a generally higher frame rate.Well, looser or tighter timings are difficult to state what is best. Depends on what CPU and how as model that performs for you. Tighter timings allow less time for instrutions in Ram to be processed on the rise and fall. IE forced through with the minimum of CC's used.

Or you loosen the timings for more breathing room. Will take an extra cycle or two but usually unnoticeable as it were. Normal practise would be to loosen the timings and tighten up when you are trying to find the sweet spot for system operation Quote from: pcjoseph1974 on August 01, 2010, 08:54:30 AM

well, im measuring that subjectively, im simply determining that by its performance in .,....games. It seems smoother and has a generally higher frame rate.

You're the only person I know that can see the difference in gaming. Hey, if it works for you ...

Timings and clock speed is a tradeoff. Both affect latency and bandwidth. There are very few times that either will have a noticeable affect.

Discussion

11135.	Solve : Wireless Printers - Stoopid Question?
Answer» I think I KNOW the answer but need to be sure: So do you need to have any kind of admin access on a wi-fi NETWORK to drop a wireless printer on it? The company I'm working with has a wireless network. We connect as "guests" using a WEP key. I have no PRIVILEGES on the network other than as a "guest". I PRESUME I wouldn't be ABLE to add and access a wireless printer on this network without an administrator doing it for me... right? ThanksDepending on the O/S hopefully you will find your answer here: http://www.vistax64.com/vista-networking-sharing/49375-sharing-printer-without-password-vista-xp.html truenorth

Discussion

11136.	Solve : Dual Hard Drives?
Answer» I had my COMPUTER set up before with C: as the primary, D: as the secondary with Windows XP on each. The reason is that if one drive has serious issues/VIRUS I can boot into the good one and repair the bad one. I never had any problems with this setup. However, I accidentally erased my D: drive by not paying attention to what I was doing. I tried to reformat and reinstall. It seems that XP may be there, but I cannot boot into it anymore. I tried to reinstall XP onto D, but it is not recognizing this as a drive. Now my C: drive is older, and not as fast as D - so I WANT to get D going as my main boot drive and use C for storage until I can buy a large (TB) drive. I(OOPS, hit the wrong key) CONTINUANCE: If someone can help me troubleshoot, I can provide a screenshot of my boot.ini and any drives info from Everest or SiSoft Sandra. I can follow any instructions given as I get paid to do computer maintenance & virus removal on the side. I don't want to try and do this without some assistance. But if all else fails I DO have all my important documents backed up to DVD.Was XP installed to D: with C: still hooked up ? ? It makes a DIFFERENCE...Yes it was - but that was also the way I did it last time as well. While the Install CD was running all was okay until it started saying that "x" file could not be copied or something to that effect. Now when it tries to boot into that drive, I get a message that "hal.dll" is missing or corrupt. And it appears that when I open the D: drive to view contents some of the folders are there.

Discussion

11137.	Solve : Networking issues?
Answer» Hello All, We are currently running Access and VB for our company database and are AROUND 13 computers connected to the server. We plan on expanding our office and our NEW office is close to 150 yards from where our present office is. I wanted help on deciding how we should connect to the server, we ll have a few computers in the new building too. The server is located in our main officeWell, what options are you considering? I could spend lots of your money and suggest a fiber optic feed (fastest and most secure), or you MAY be able to use something like what's in THIS link (it's an advertisement, but I am in no way connected to anyone who would benefit from whatever decsion you make). The idea is that, theoretically, ethernet can only extend 100 - 120 meters, before one needs to link to a router or some such. Perhaps better qualified people will tell you the few extra meters will be no problem.These were the issues we were debating on and also on how the internet connection should be taken. Having TWO separate connections in both office or set up a booster on the roof and would that help getting internet in the other office too? I will have a look at the link you posted and look for other alternatives too..The link is just to give you an idea of something else that might be out there. I was going to suggest a radio link -- looks like you're considering that, too. Are there phone lines between the buildings? Or, "spare" (open/available/not being used) phone lines?We should be having spare phone lines, we still have not moved in to the new office but should be very soonHow mission-critical will communications be between the two buildings? If your business will depend on high availability, then cutting corners (praying a Cat5E run will do the job, for example) would be false economy. Other than fibre, you could consider ethernet extension, long range wireless ethernet bridges or VPN over ADSL (at both buildings). Factor in resilience, speed and security to the extent that they are priorities for your business. Incidentally, Access is going to cause you problems with that many users unless you have networking at a good speed to all endpoints. It's not very tolerant of high latency. In any event, at this stage I would seriously consider putting the backend onto a real database server. MS SQL would be fine (if you've got it). MySQL and Postgresql are obvious options if you want a free (but enterprise-grade) solution. Migrating the backend is a lot easier than it sounds. You can still keep your Access-designed frontend.I would have to agree with Rob. Access is a nice program but limited. It sounds like your needs are growing and it would be a good idea to make a change to which DB you use. We dont have MS SQL Server yet, but were thinking of getting that done.. Need to discuss that with the IT department here, do you have any set of rules/ideas which should be followed or kept in mind during the migration process. I have not done it myself so any help on how to go about it would be appreciated. ThanksNot too difficult, as I said. If you don't have MS SQL server, SAVE yourself some licensing costs and install MySQL on one of your boxes. Then you'll need the MySQL ODBC connectors on all the client machines. There's plenty of community and commercial support available for MySQL now and your TCO is virtually guaranteed to be lower than with MS SQL. Plenty of info out there on migrating from Access backends to MySQL. Google knows.

Discussion

11138.	Solve : White screen when installing drivers on XP??? Help!?
Answer» System is running XP Home SP2 (same problem on XP Pro) Mobo: Asus M3N78 Pro RAM: (cheapy) Kingston RAM (approved for said Mobo) 2Gigs HD: WD SATA CAVIAR 320GB CPU: AMD Phenom X4 9500 Problem: Never heard of this... whenever I try to autorun the Chipset CD from Asus or try to install a driver off the CD via Device Manager (Add Hardware), it'll get about 1/3 or 1/2 way through the install and freeze, all activity will stop (HD, CD-ROM, everything) and then the screen will GO white. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Mobo has been FLASHED to most recent version. I'm using the M3N78 Pro's on-board graphics to run to a tube monitor (old style) and the system boots fine EVERY time. Problem occurs in safe mode as well... Thanks for looking! - Ryan Edit: I'm placing this in the hardware section as the problem has occurred on two replacement Mobos and RAM that was not approved for the Mobo and ram that was on multiple fresh installs of XP (both Pro and Home SP2).You're using Service pack 2, perhaps there's a patch for this problem you're having in Service Pack 3. MAYBE it's time to update. Have you tried swaping in a different CD drive to do the install driver install. I realize you've done successful OS installs with that drive, but some drives are picky! A Firmware update for the CD drive from the manufacturer may suffice, as well. Although it may void any warranty on it. What about simply udating the driver for the CD drive? Apparently this ancient drive was very picky. It and it alone was responsible for the problem I was encountering. Popped in a new drive (took about a week and a half to get to me) and everything came right up. Ended up having to buy an ethernet card... sadly the one that came on the mobo wasn't requesting properly... Thanks for the help and I'll leave this thread up in case anyone searches regarding a similar problem.

Discussion

11139.	Solve : USB driver?
Answer» Hi all, My system has 2 USB ports in FRONT and 4 on another end.while interfacing hardware on morning it was working file.while interfacing pendrive,it was not recognised and on two FRONTS ports.AFTER THat I connected the hardware which was working fine on morning,gets error like "USB not recognised" like icon is there any option to avoid this? thanks in advance Does the device work on another machine ? ?Thank you for the response. yes its working fine on another computer and that error is showed for the pendrive also Regards, nayakIn Device Manager EXPAND the USB device list... Right click each item and select "Remove"...you will get a warning...ignore it. Do this for every Root and Hub you see. Upon RESTART Windows will automatically re-insyall them. NOTE unplug as MANY USB devices that are not neccessary before re-starting.While showing error,that Device will become "Unknown device" in the device manager. how can we reinstall or uninstall the device? Start by re-installing your motherboard drivers...

Discussion

11140.	Solve : PLEASE HELP ME GRRR?
Answer» THE main PROBLEM: OK i have an inspirion 1520 with 8600mgt. i was playing a video game but then my graphics DRIVERS crashed, so i went to start> shutdown and i restarted the computer. when i turned it on again everything was ok so i turned on the game again. this time graphics driver crashed again but this time i had to shut down by holding down the power button for 10 seconds. now when i restarted the computer, the screen is BLANK AND BLACK, nothing shows up..no bios boot page, no windows logo, nada. i reckon that the system still runs b/c i can still hear the windows sound when i LOG into my account (yes i logged on blindly). also i can turn up and down the brightness, but i just can't see anything, CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME? ANOTHER PROBLEM: so alot of people from other forums are saying its my gpu, but here is the other problem, MY DELL WARRANTY EXPIRED. is there any way for me to replace my 8600mgt with another 8600m gt? i can't send it to dell cause my warranty expired. i looked at the online manual and it seems like you could take out the 8600m gt on the inspiron 1520 with ease, but my problem now is finding another 8600m gt that is compatible with dell. i've googled and found nothing. does anyone KNOW any place where i can get another 8600m gt card and remember my comp gpu is not mxm. anyone know any sites? also is there a way to make it work without replacing the gpu? or if i have to replace the gpu, could i USE something cheaper? please help me, i went to the nearest computer place and they can't help me and TOLD me to call dell, but i can't do that neither cause my warranty expired Why don't you try to clean first your video card. Hope this helps.

Discussion

11141.	Solve : Intel ver Supermicro?
Answer» I'm comparing the two INTEL MOTHERBOARDS to two SuperMicro Motherboards, and not just the price but mainly the BOARD support; Switching Pwr Phase, North and or South bridge, RAM speed and amount, etc. Next will be which CPU to use, study, then on to the RAM spec's. Anyone using these types. I do have a running Supermicro MB--PDSLA, PENT 4, 3GHz and A MSI MB, Pent 4, 3GHz Intel BOXDX48BT2, X48 775 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121338 Supermicro MBD-C2SBX X48 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813182163 Intel BOXDX58SO, X58 1366 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121361 Supermicro MBD-C7X58, X58 1366 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813182166 You may want to select the CPU first...then the MBoard...... Also Gigabyte is making some good boards these days as well.Today I have narrowed the search down to just Intel X48 support, been reviewing the MB's selling at Newegg, tho the Intel MB might be my pick

Discussion

11142.	Solve : cant partition my ard drive?
Answer» I've been tryin noumerous times to prtition my hard DRIVE. when i partition it with acronis disk director suite, it would TELL me to reboot bu after i reboot the drive partition i created isnt there. im running windows 7. i've tryedthe samething with windows xp. i have at 200G gard drive. pentium4 2.ghz 512mb ram p.s: i DONT have that conector for that hard drive so i cant make it a slave or master. ThanksHave a look at this.. http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=313348Disk director is one of the better apps out there for disk management...you MAY have missed a STEP or two. What exactly are you doing in setting up the partitions ? ?

Discussion

11143.	Solve : Monitor Recomendations?
Answer» I'm looking for a new monitor. I'm looking for a 19" widescreen that has good picture quality for gaming. I don't know a lot about the specs on them so an HELP would be great. This is what i'm looking at right now but any other monitors that you know of that are better i am open to look at them. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=Property&N=2010190020%201309821317%201301919996&StoreType=-1&CompareItemList=N82E16824236027%2cN82E16824254029%2cN82E16824001307%2cN82E16824254005%2cN82E16824009127&Manufactory=1146%2c11143%2c1077%2c1315&PropertyCodeValue=3098%3a21317%2c3019%3a19996&bop=And I never bought any monitor on-line. I like to go to the store, SEE 30 monitors TURNED ON, and then, I know, which one.

Discussion

11144.	Solve : Gaming problems?
Answer» during gameplay my mouse and keyboard FREEZE and I will keep running or shooting after I release the button. The keyboard is fine, it is not wireless and I tried different keyboards. and If I shut down my CPU for long time I LOSS my mouse DRIVER. I am running xp home edition v 2002 service pack 3- AMD sempron 2800+ 2 GHZ 1.5 ram, and it does it in 2 games wow and battlefield 2, even after a reinstall What is your video card? Have you been able to run these games before without these issues? What is your internet connection? You could be lagging, check your ping. Hope this helps.games have worked fine in the past, radon 9600 video card. I have the same problem with I try bg2 on single player as wellWhen's the last time you ran the regular maintenence on this machine such as Diskclean, defrag and your malware scans ? How much free space is on that hard drive ? ?

Discussion

11145.	Solve : Cannot put files on Flash Drive.?
Answer» Ok this is a really weird problem I can't yet figure out. I have a Dell Dimension 4700 with XP and an almost full hard drive (could this have to do with my problem?). I have a 6.3 GB ISO file (ALREADY on the hard drive)that I have been trying to put on my 16 GB OCZ Deisel flash drive. The flash drive has over 10 GB of free space, but whenever I try to put the ISO file on, it says there's not enough space. I wondered if I needed that much space free on the hard drive to copy it, but even when there was more than 6.5 GB free on the flash drive AND the hard drive, it still said that there was not enough space on my flash drive to put it on. Any suggestions?I am not expert at this, but I don't think the central processor should NEED hard drive space to move a file to your flash drive... Please don't be offended: you are sure of the error message?What file system is XP installed on ? ? FAT 32 or NTFS ?Oh, sure, Patio -- ask the pertinent questions! Which leads into how the flash drive is formatted, too. Quote from: Aegis on May 08, 2009, 07:02:25 AM I am not expert at this, but I don't think the central processor should need hard drive space to move a file to your flash drive... Please don't be offended: you are sure of the error message? Ok here's what happens when I try to cut or copy the file and put it in the flash drive: There is an error message entitled "Copy" and says, "The disk in the destination drive is full. Insert a new disk to continue," and you can either Retry or Cancel. If you cancel, nothing happens, and if you retry, there is another error message entitled "Error Copying File or FOLDER" and it says, "Cannot copy (file name): There is not enough free disk space. DELETE one or more files to free disk space, and then try again." And yes, I'm positive that I have much more than 6.3 GB free on the flash drive--under properties it says I have 10.1 GB free. OK, ignore my dumb question. Patio really wants to know what kind(s) of file systems are on the system: NTFS, FAT32, or what?I'm not totally sure but I'm thinking its NTFS since the computer is from 2004 and came with XP on it.Th file system of the flash drive, highlight it in my computer and use the details on the side, it will tell you. if it is FAT32, it will only handle files up to 4GB I believe.Oh yeah it says FAT32... Is there really anything I can do besides zip it and hope it gets under 4 GB or just compress it and have bad quality?You will need to use a file-splitter app for anything over 4g...An example of a file-splitter would be HJSplit.

11145.

Solve : Cannot put files on Flash Drive.?

Answer»

Ok this is a really weird problem I can't yet figure out. I have a Dell Dimension 4700 with XP and an almost full hard drive (could this have to do with my problem?). I have a 6.3 GB ISO file (ALREADY on the hard drive)that I have been trying to put on my 16 GB OCZ Deisel flash drive. The flash drive has over 10 GB of free space, but whenever I try to put the ISO file on, it says there's not enough space. I wondered if I needed that much space free on the hard drive to copy it, but even when there was more than 6.5 GB free on the flash drive AND the hard drive, it still said that there was not enough space on my flash drive to put it on. Any suggestions?I am not expert at this, but I don't think the central processor should NEED hard drive space to move a file to your flash drive...

Please don't be offended: you are sure of the error message?What file system is XP installed on ? ?
FAT 32 or NTFS ?Oh, sure, Patio -- ask the pertinent questions!

Which leads into how the flash drive is formatted, too. Quote from: Aegis on May 08, 2009, 07:02:25 AM

I am not expert at this, but I don't think the central processor should need hard drive space to move a file to your flash drive...

Please don't be offended: you are sure of the error message?

Ok here's what happens when I try to cut or copy the file and put it in the flash drive:

There is an error message entitled "Copy" and says, "The disk in the destination drive is full. Insert a new disk to continue," and you can either Retry or Cancel. If you cancel, nothing happens, and if you retry, there is another error message entitled "Error Copying File or FOLDER" and it says, "Cannot copy (file name): There is not enough free disk space. DELETE one or more files to free disk space, and then try again."

And yes, I'm positive that I have much more than 6.3 GB free on the flash drive--under properties it says I have 10.1 GB free.

OK, ignore my dumb question.

Patio really wants to know what kind(s) of file systems are on the system: NTFS, FAT32, or what?I'm not totally sure but I'm thinking its NTFS since the computer is from 2004 and came with XP on it.Th file system of the flash drive, highlight it in my computer and use the details on the side, it will tell you.

if it is FAT32, it will only handle files up to 4GB I believe.Oh yeah it says FAT32...
Is there really anything I can do besides zip it and hope it gets under 4 GB or just compress it and have bad quality?You will need to use a file-splitter app for anything over 4g...An example of a file-splitter would be HJSplit.

Discussion

11146.	Solve : No Secondary Video?
Answer» I bought a Nvidia Geforce2 MX/MX 400, thing is that it is only letting the first display show even with the secondary one connected. If I have the second one connected by its self then its shows on it. Not sure driver wise. Windows XP ProHave you already read this ? Quote Article ID: 307873 - Last Review: July 15, 2004 - Revision: 2.5 How To Configure and Use Multiple Monitors in Windows XP no I didnt, do I have to have the driver installed though?Yes. In most (if not all) cases, you need to have the driver installed for the video card to run multiple displays properly.true but, do I have the right one though?I don't know. Do you?thats the reason why I am asking :/Well, did you install the driver that came on the CD with the card? If you didn't, did you download from either Nvidia or the manufacturer of the card the driver for it? I can't answer that question for you.I did It said something LIKE it was a legancy driver or something. I ened up useing there auto feature an got the one for the card off there site. Still the samething is happen, probably going to get a replace soon. Quote from: Kon on May 08, 2011, 07:49:52 PM I did It said something like it was a legancy driver or something. I ened up useing there auto feature an got the one for the card off there site. Still the samething is happen, probably going to get a replace soon. What said something about a legacy device? Whose auto feature did you use to download which driver from which site? As long as you keep GIVING vague replies, there's not a lot we can do. Did you download the driver from the manufacturer's site as was recommended? And if the manufacturer didn't have the driver, did you go to the Nvidia site to get it? If you tell us who made the card, we can help you locate the correct driver. Nvidia doesn't make cards, they only make the chips. Other companies, such as Gigabyte or PowerColor or Sapphire, make the actual cards. That is who you should get the driver from. If they don't have it, or no longer exist, then you should get the driver from Nvidia and hope it works well enough with that particular card.There Site I said that is what I done. Nvidia. Like I said it found the driver an I installed it with only the samething to still occur Quote from: Kon on May 10, 2011, 02:26:45 PM There Site I said that is what I done. Nvidia. Like I said it found the driver an I installed it with only the samething to still occur If something "found" the driver, you didn't get it straight from Nvidia. What is finding this driver? You keep saying "it", but that doesn't tell us what it is. If it's Windows that's finding and updating your driver, it's likely Windows is downloading the WRONG driver as it's known to do from time to time. Who actually makes the video card?There is an automatic scanner on Nvidia's Site. As I said Nvidia :/ Quote from: Kon on May 12, 2011, 01:57:00 PM There is an automatic scanner on Nvidia's Site. As I said Nvidia :/ And that's where your going wrong... As Quaxo asked...who makes the card ? ? Quote from: Kon on May 12, 2011, 01:57:00 PM As I said Nvidia :/ You said "there site". Other than incorrectly spelling the possessive pronoun "their", you never said what it referred to until now, so all we can do is guess. As I said, Nvidia does not make graphics cards. Nvidia only makes the graphics chips. They sell those chips, as well as the basic SPECIFICATIONS for making the card, to other companies that actually produce the cards. It's been a while, but the GeForce2 MX 400 I had back in the day wouldn't run correctly on the generic driver from Nvidia. So, again... who made the actual card?

11146.

Solve : No Secondary Video?

Answer»

I bought a Nvidia Geforce2 MX/MX 400, thing is that it is only letting the first display show even with the secondary one connected. If I have the second one connected by its self then its shows on it. Not sure driver wise. Windows XP ProHave you already read this ?
Quote

Article ID: 307873 - Last Review: July 15, 2004 - Revision: 2.5
How To Configure and Use Multiple Monitors in Windows XP

no I didnt, do I have to have the driver installed though?Yes. In most (if not all) cases, you need to have the driver installed for the video card to run multiple displays properly.true but, do I have the right one though?I don't know. Do you?thats the reason why I am asking :/Well, did you install the driver that came on the CD with the card? If you didn't, did you download from either Nvidia or the manufacturer of the card the driver for it? I can't answer that question for you.I did It said something LIKE it was a legancy driver or something. I ened up useing there auto feature an got the one for the card off there site. Still the samething is happen, probably going to get a replace soon. Quote from: Kon on May 08, 2011, 07:49:52 PM

I did It said something like it was a legancy driver or something. I ened up useing there auto feature an got the one for the card off there site. Still the samething is happen, probably going to get a replace soon.

What said something about a legacy device? Whose auto feature did you use to download which driver from which site?

As long as you keep GIVING vague replies, there's not a lot we can do. Did you download the driver from the manufacturer's site as was recommended? And if the manufacturer didn't have the driver, did you go to the Nvidia site to get it?

If you tell us who made the card, we can help you locate the correct driver. Nvidia doesn't make cards, they only make the chips. Other companies, such as Gigabyte or PowerColor or Sapphire, make the actual cards. That is who you should get the driver from. If they don't have it, or no longer exist, then you should get the driver from Nvidia and hope it works well enough with that particular card.There Site I said that is what I done. Nvidia. Like I said it found the driver an I installed it with only the samething to still occur Quote from: Kon on May 10, 2011, 02:26:45 PM

There Site I said that is what I done. Nvidia. Like I said it found the driver an I installed it with only the samething to still occur

If something "found" the driver, you didn't get it straight from Nvidia. What is finding this driver? You keep saying "it", but that doesn't tell us what it is. If it's Windows that's finding and updating your driver, it's likely Windows is downloading the WRONG driver as it's known to do from time to time.

Who actually makes the video card?There is an automatic scanner on Nvidia's Site. As I said Nvidia :/ Quote from: Kon on May 12, 2011, 01:57:00 PM

There is an automatic scanner on Nvidia's Site. As I said Nvidia :/

And that's where your going wrong...
As Quaxo asked...who makes the card ? ? Quote from: Kon on May 12, 2011, 01:57:00 PM

As I said Nvidia :/

You said "there site". Other than incorrectly spelling the possessive pronoun "their", you never said what it referred to until now, so all we can do is guess.

As I said, Nvidia does not make graphics cards. Nvidia only makes the graphics chips. They sell those chips, as well as the basic SPECIFICATIONS for making the card, to other companies that actually produce the cards. It's been a while, but the GeForce2 MX 400 I had back in the day wouldn't run correctly on the generic driver from Nvidia.

So, again... who made the actual card?

Discussion

11147.	Solve : computer not awakening from sleep + 2 additional problems?
Answer» So the first problem I got is the one posted in the subject. My computer doesn't respond if I let it go to sleep, I have to take out it's source of electricity, wait for a small green LIGHT in the computer to go out and restart it after (when I do so tough it does actually reload what I had open when the computer went to sleep). It doesn't respond using my mice, keybord nor hitting the start button. Then I have two problems that I think are related to my graphic card. The first one being my screen SHOWING small lines of light and dark when I play computer games (Starcraft2 and WoW and some other games I've sen it on), which should be something to do with the refresh rate of the screen. Indeed how visible the lines are and how the lines act (they move up or down or stay put in the middle of the screen) changes if I put on or off vertical sync in the game. It also changes if I play full screen or windowed, but the lines are still there. The other related issue is my cursor graphics is bugging out at times, basically it'll be loads of lines instead of the white pointer/arrow thing it normally is. The graphic card I use is Sapphire Radeon HD 5870 1GB GDDR5. Oh by the way I use windows 7. For some reason it says unknown. Any help would be lovely <3 Sincerely, Theovide.I made this in kind of an hurry and now realise it might have been put in the wrong part of the forum. Though as it's SEVERAL problems I'm not sure where to put it otherwise, but if any moderator or such knows a good place for this I wouldn't mind having it moved . I also realised I didn't post what screen I'm using, which is a Benq G2420HD. Though according to a guy having the same problem as me, also with sapphire radeon card (not exactly the same one though) and a Benq screen, chaning screen to another one didn't solve his problem. Then again he might've been so unlucky that he got another unworking screen. Anyway thanks for taking the time reading, if you did. Sincerely, Theovide.What are your full system specifications? They would help in helping us to assist you. 1.00 587820 Ace Ecco 400 Midi Tower Black Fans: 1x 120mm Back, mATX, ATX, 2x USB, I / O: AC 1.00 494479 Lite-On DVD±RW BURNER IHAS124-19 SuperAllWrite, 24x8x16DVD+RW, SATA, Black 1.00 584721 Sapphire Radeon HD 5870 1GB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0, 2xDVI-I, HDMI, DisplayPort, 850/1 1.00 430708 Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB SATA-300, 16MB, 7200RPM 1.00 491282 Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600MHz 4GB CL9 Kit w/2x 2GB XMS3 modules, CL9-9-9-24, for Core i5 1.00 593889 ASUS M4A87TD EVO, Socket-AM3 AMD 870+SB850, SATA 6Gb's, USB3.0, DDR3, GbLAN, AT 1.00 339898 Corsair VX 550W PSU ATX 12V V2.2, 80 Plus, Standard, 1x 6pin, 1x 6+2-p 1.00 518692 AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Quad Core, 3,4Ghz, AM3, 8MB, 125W, Boxed This is the receipt or likewise from when I bought the stuff, hope it's enough . Also, I've managed to reduce the flicker related problem slightly by updating some drivers aswell as putting the screen into it's own electrical output (and not into one who shares one electrical output into many). So it's not as much as a problem anymore, but if you know any sollutions that would still be great of course (right now I can't play in windowed [fullscreen] mode on my games because that increases the flicker somehow). Cheers for any help Sincerely, TheovideWhere do you live? Is your area 50 Hz power? Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 07, 2011, 07:10:26 AM Where do you live? Is your area 50 Hz power? I live in Sweden, and I'm quite sure we got 50 Hz (and 220 volt if it makes any difference). Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 07, 2011, 07:10:26 AM Is your area 50 Hz power? What difference does that make? 50 or 60 Hz, it gets turned into DC by the power SUPPLY. Theovide: have you tried reinstalling the Sapphire driver? Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 08, 2011, 09:40:54 AM What difference does that make? 50 or 60 Hz, it gets turned into DC by the power supply. It matters. The power supply has ripple. A better power supply might help. Quote hen I have two problems that I think are related to my graphic card. The first one being my screen showing small lines of light and dark when I play computer games (Starcraft2 and WoW and some other games I've sen it on), which should be something to do with the refresh rate of the screen. Indeed how visible the lines are and how the lines act (they move up or down or stay put in the middle of the screen) changes if I put on or off vertical sync in the game. It also changes if I play full screen or windowed, but the lines are still there. PSU ripple is more annoying when using a 50 mains and refresh rate of 60. Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 08, 2011, 10:37:18 AM It matters. The power supply has ripple. A better power supply might help.PSU ripple is more annoying when using a 50 mains and refresh rate of 60. Computer PSUs are not the old fashioned types with transformer - full wave rectifier - pi section filter of your (and my) youth. They are switched-mode devices. The switching frequency is typically 25 kHz. Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 08, 2011, 09:40:54 AM Theovide: have you tried reinstalling the Sapphire driver? This. Make sure you're running the latest driver, which is 11.4 hotfix. As for the sleep issue, do you know what BIOS version your motherboard is on? If it's not the latest, update the BIOS first, but make sure you do it through the Asus EZ-Flash in the BIOS, not through Windows. Quote from: Calum on May 08, 2011, 01:27:43 PM This. Make sure you're running the latest driver, which is 11.4 hotfix. As for the sleep issue, do you know what BIOS version your motherboard is on? If it's not the latest, update the BIOS first, but make sure you do it through the Asus EZ-Flash in the BIOS, not through Windows. I will try to uppdate my bios, I haven't updated it manually ever. About graphic card drivers I've run some AMD update tools downloaded from AMD's site. But I've now also downloaded http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=344093 (I found this one when searching for 11.4, and it seems like this is a never version just released?). Anyway, I'll try to update the bios then I'll check stuff out and see if everything works. Update: I'm not quite sure how to do the BIOS update, I've gotten into the Asus EZ-Flash but I'm not quite sure what to do from there. Also the update I think I downloaded haven't helped to much with the flickering. I'm thinking if it might be electricity output and if I should find a way to get it into an own socket (right now it's sitting into a double wall socket, the other socket leading to a split where I have all my computer stuff. I'm not quite sure how the double sockets work, if they share electricity in some way or not. (With double I mean something like this: http://www.valkyriaelmontage.se/res/Sidbilder/eluttagvaggvit.png )Does the computer not awakening from sleep(after leaving a period of inactivity and sleep mode is set) happens when leaving an intensive game with high settings or recommended settings for that particular game? Does flickering on full screen mode happens on all games or one? You could also borrow a known good power supply of same or greater than your current to check on this. Aside from installing the latest driver, you could also try lowering resolution a notch on a particular game and see the difference.

11147.

Solve : computer not awakening from sleep + 2 additional problems?

Answer»

So the first problem I got is the one posted in the subject. My computer doesn't respond if I let it go to sleep, I have to take out it's source of electricity, wait for a small green LIGHT in the computer to go out and restart it after (when I do so tough it does actually reload what I had open when the computer went to sleep). It doesn't respond using my mice, keybord nor hitting the start button.

Then I have two problems that I think are related to my graphic card. The first one being my screen SHOWING small lines of light and dark when I play computer games (Starcraft2 and WoW and some other games I've sen it on), which should be something to do with the refresh rate of the screen. Indeed how visible the lines are and how the lines act (they move up or down or stay put in the middle of the screen) changes if I put on or off vertical sync in the game. It also changes if I play full screen or windowed, but the lines are still there.

The other related issue is my cursor graphics is bugging out at times, basically it'll be loads of lines instead of the white pointer/arrow thing it normally is.

The graphic card I use is Sapphire Radeon HD 5870 1GB GDDR5.

Oh by the way I use windows 7. For some reason it says unknown.

Any help would be lovely <3

Sincerely,
Theovide.I made this in kind of an hurry and now realise it might have been put in the wrong part of the forum. Though as it's SEVERAL problems I'm not sure where to put it otherwise, but if any moderator or such knows a good place for this I wouldn't mind having it moved .

I also realised I didn't post what screen I'm using, which is a Benq G2420HD. Though according to a guy having the same problem as me, also with sapphire radeon card (not exactly the same one though) and a Benq screen, chaning screen to another one didn't solve his problem. Then again he might've been so unlucky that he got another unworking screen.

Anyway thanks for taking the time reading, if you did.
Sincerely,
Theovide.What are your full system specifications? They would help in helping us to assist you. 1.00 587820 Ace Ecco 400 Midi Tower Black
Fans: 1x 120mm Back, mATX, ATX, 2x USB, I / O: AC
1.00 494479 Lite-On DVD±RW BURNER IHAS124-19
SuperAllWrite, 24x8x16DVD+RW, SATA, Black
1.00 584721 Sapphire Radeon HD 5870 1GB GDDR5
PCI-Express 2.0, 2xDVI-I, HDMI, DisplayPort, 850/1
1.00 430708 Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB
SATA-300, 16MB, 7200RPM
1.00 491282 Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600MHz 4GB CL9
Kit w/2x 2GB XMS3 modules, CL9-9-9-24, for Core i5
1.00 593889 ASUS M4A87TD EVO, Socket-AM3
AMD 870+SB850, SATA 6Gb's, USB3.0, DDR3, GbLAN, AT
1.00 339898 Corsair VX 550W PSU
ATX 12V V2.2, 80 Plus, Standard, 1x 6pin, 1x 6+2-p
1.00 518692 AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
Quad Core, 3,4Ghz, AM3, 8MB, 125W, Boxed

This is the receipt or likewise from when I bought the stuff, hope it's enough .

Also, I've managed to reduce the flicker related problem slightly by updating some drivers aswell as putting the screen into it's own electrical output (and not into one who shares one electrical output into many). So it's not as much as a problem anymore, but if you know any sollutions that would still be great of course (right now I can't play in windowed [fullscreen] mode on my games because that increases the flicker somehow).

Cheers for any help
Sincerely,
TheovideWhere do you live? Is your area 50 Hz power?
Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 07, 2011, 07:10:26 AM

Where do you live? Is your area 50 Hz power?

I live in Sweden, and I'm quite sure we got 50 Hz (and 220 volt if it makes any difference). Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 07, 2011, 07:10:26 AM

Is your area 50 Hz power?

What difference does that make? 50 or 60 Hz, it gets turned into DC by the power SUPPLY.

Theovide: have you tried reinstalling the Sapphire driver?

Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 08, 2011, 09:40:54 AM

What difference does that make? 50 or 60 Hz, it gets turned into DC by the power supply.

It matters. The power supply has ripple. A better power supply might help.
Quote

hen I have two problems that I think are related to my graphic card. The first one being my screen showing small lines of light and dark when I play computer games (Starcraft2 and WoW and some other games I've sen it on), which should be something to do with the refresh rate of the screen. Indeed how visible the lines are and how the lines act (they move up or down or stay put in the middle of the screen) changes if I put on or off vertical sync in the game. It also changes if I play full screen or windowed, but the lines are still there.

PSU ripple is more annoying when using a 50 mains and refresh rate of 60.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 08, 2011, 10:37:18 AM

It matters. The power supply has ripple. A better power supply might help.PSU ripple is more annoying when using a 50 mains and refresh rate of 60.

Computer PSUs are not the old fashioned types with transformer - full wave rectifier - pi section filter of your (and my) youth. They are switched-mode devices. The switching frequency is typically 25 kHz.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 08, 2011, 09:40:54 AM

Theovide: have you tried reinstalling the Sapphire driver?

This. Make sure you're running the latest driver, which is 11.4 hotfix.

As for the sleep issue, do you know what BIOS version your motherboard is on? If it's not the latest, update the BIOS first, but make sure you do it through the Asus EZ-Flash in the BIOS, not through Windows. Quote from: Calum on May 08, 2011, 01:27:43 PM

This. Make sure you're running the latest driver, which is 11.4 hotfix.

As for the sleep issue, do you know what BIOS version your motherboard is on? If it's not the latest, update the BIOS first, but make sure you do it through the Asus EZ-Flash in the BIOS, not through Windows.

I will try to uppdate my bios, I haven't updated it manually ever. About graphic card drivers I've run some AMD update tools downloaded from AMD's site. But I've now also downloaded http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=344093 (I found this one when searching for 11.4, and it seems like this is a never version just released?).

Anyway, I'll try to update the bios then I'll check stuff out and see if everything works.

Update: I'm not quite sure how to do the BIOS update, I've gotten into the Asus EZ-Flash but I'm not quite sure what to do from there. Also the update I think I downloaded haven't helped to much with the flickering. I'm thinking if it might be electricity output and if I should find a way to get it into an own socket (right now it's sitting into a double wall socket, the other socket leading to a split where I have all my computer stuff. I'm not quite sure how the double sockets work, if they share electricity in some way or not. (With double I mean something like this: http://www.valkyriaelmontage.se/res/Sidbilder/eluttagvaggvit.png )Does the computer not awakening from sleep(after leaving a period of inactivity and sleep mode is set) happens when leaving an intensive game with high settings or recommended settings for that particular game? Does flickering on full screen mode happens on all games or one? You could also borrow a known good power supply of same or greater than your current to check on this. Aside from installing the latest driver, you could also try lowering resolution a notch on a particular game and see the difference.

Discussion

11148.	Solve : Computer Will Not Work?
Answer» Ok I am needing advise on my desktop computer. It is a Cisnet computer running Windows XP I've had it for probably 5 years. It was running great and one day the power went off at our office while the computer was running (The computer was plugged into a surge protector). After that I tried to turn it back on, when I hit the power button I could HEAR the fans running and the Red light on the front of the computer came on and then went off after about 10 seconds but the fans kept running and nothing ever displayed on my screen. There is also a green light on the front of the computer but it NEVER turned on. I believe the problem is either the motherboard or the processor, due to my experiment listed below but I need another opinion. THINGS I'VE TRIED: 1) A different Monitar (That the computer had worked on in the past) 2) Replaced the RAM MEMORY 3) Changed the power supply 4) Changed the hard drive and none of this changed anything. I did not change the video card because it is integrated onto the motherboard. Let me know if you need anymore information. ThanksWhats left? The motherboard? Ummmm.....Thats what I said. Just needing a PROFESSIONAL opinion! Incase I have missed somethingTry a video card. HI Can u plz have a check with the mother board of the computer !!! plz since u have tried replacing all the essential things that u think that has to replaced is perferctly alrite!!! I really appreciate uur technical Knowledge Quote from: Randy1887 on August 26, 2010, 09:49:34 PM Ummmm.....Thats what I said. Just needing a PROFESSIONAL opinion! Incase I have missed something The process of elimination hardly requires a professional to understand . It's either the processor, or the motherboard- as you've already discovered. Given the symptoms I'm inclined to lean towards motherboard, but about 99.9% of the time when a motherboard fails as a RESULT of power issues (power outage/spike/brownout) like this it can often take other components with it, including the processor. Only way to be sure WOULD be to try the processor in another compatible motherboard, but then it's possible that if the processor is fried that it could (in some cases) ruin the "new" motherboard as well. Only way to be certain would be to get it tested with one of those CPU testing devices.It's too late for you now, but this really points out the need for a good surge protector. The common $19.95 surge PROTECTORS are really not very good, and only a step ahead of a standard plug strip. A UPS from one of the top manufactures is usually the best unit. Besides being a battery back up they usually have very good surge protectors. This is one of the situations where you usually get what what you pay for.Do not overlook also your 3V battery since its a 5 year old computer. Since you cannot get past POST screen and computer suddenly shutsdown. The RED light you posted might mean and ORANGE blinking. Since you have made changes to major components of your CPU and tested it with same results. Try reseatting the battery after 10 mins. or better replace it. If ever it runs and shutsdown for 5 to 10 mins, then its most probably a thermal issue. If CPU runs without video display, its most likely your on-board video card or motherboard components(capacitor,hopefully).Sorry it's been so long but I thought I would let you guys know how this turned out. I took out the wireless network card (that the computer had worked fine with) then it ran fine, put it back in it wouldn't work, took it out and installed a new wireless network card and have had no trouble with it at all. Wow didn't see that being the problem. Lol. I resolved this issue back in September I think it was, just haven't been on here to update you guys

11148.

Solve : Computer Will Not Work?

Answer»

Ok I am needing advise on my desktop computer. It is a Cisnet computer running Windows XP I've had it for probably 5 years. It was running great and one day the power went off at our office while the computer was running (The computer was plugged into a surge protector). After that I tried to turn it back on, when I hit the power button I could HEAR the fans running and the Red light on the front of the computer came on and then went off after about 10 seconds but the fans kept running and nothing ever displayed on my screen. There is also a green light on the front of the computer but it NEVER turned on. I believe the problem is either the motherboard or the processor, due to my experiment listed below but I need another opinion.

THINGS I'VE TRIED: 1) A different Monitar (That the computer had worked on in the past) 2) Replaced the RAM MEMORY 3) Changed the power supply 4) Changed the hard drive and none of this changed anything. I did not change the video card because it is integrated onto the motherboard. Let me know if you need anymore information. ThanksWhats left? The motherboard?

Ummmm.....Thats what I said. Just needing a PROFESSIONAL opinion! Incase I have missed somethingTry a video card. HI

Can u plz have a check with the mother board of the computer !!! plz since u have tried replacing all the essential things that u think that has to replaced is perferctly alrite!!!

I really appreciate uur technical Knowledge Quote from: Randy1887 on August 26, 2010, 09:49:34 PM

Ummmm.....Thats what I said. Just needing a PROFESSIONAL opinion! Incase I have missed something

The process of elimination hardly requires a professional to understand .

It's either the processor, or the motherboard- as you've already discovered. Given the symptoms I'm inclined to lean towards motherboard, but about 99.9% of the time when a motherboard fails as a RESULT of power issues (power outage/spike/brownout) like this it can often take other components with it, including the processor. Only way to be sure WOULD be to try the processor in another compatible motherboard, but then it's possible that if the processor is fried that it could (in some cases) ruin the "new" motherboard as well. Only way to be certain would be to get it tested with one of those CPU testing devices.It's too late for you now, but this really points out the need for a good surge protector. The common $19.95 surge PROTECTORS are really not very good, and only a step ahead of a standard plug strip. A UPS from one of the top manufactures is usually the best unit. Besides being a battery back up they usually have very good surge protectors.

This is one of the situations where you usually get what what you pay for.Do not overlook also your 3V battery since its a 5 year old computer. Since you cannot get past POST screen and computer suddenly shutsdown. The RED light you posted might mean and ORANGE blinking. Since you have made changes to major components of your CPU and tested it with same results. Try reseatting the battery after 10 mins. or better replace it. If ever it runs and shutsdown for 5 to 10 mins, then its most probably a thermal issue. If CPU runs without video display, its most likely your on-board video card or motherboard components(capacitor,hopefully).Sorry it's been so long but I thought I would let you guys know how this turned out. I took out the wireless network card (that the computer had worked fine with) then it ran fine, put it back in it wouldn't work, took it out and installed a new wireless network card and have had no trouble with it at all. Wow didn't see that being the problem. Lol. I resolved this issue back in September I think it was, just haven't been on here to update you guys

Discussion

11149.	Solve : Display shuts off; graphics card fan stops spinning.?
Answer» When I am in game my display just SHUTS off, monitor still stays on and tower is still on. My graphics card is a RADEON 5570 Gateway fx4710 Nothing special Does moving the mouse or pressing a key bring the screen back to life? Has it always been this way or did it just start? If it just started, what happened just before it started? Check power options to SEE if display is set to power down after a period of inactivity. Also check screen SAVER and see if it is set to come on with no image.No, it started when I had a dual monitor setup for a while. I don't have any power saving options on my comp. I also have to wiggle the graphics card to get the FAN spinning again

Discussion

11150.	Solve : troubles reformatting?
Answer» I'm having problems reformatting my HARDDRIVE, I put in the windows xp cd it goes through installing hardware, then when it goes to run the cd at the end a blue screen comes up saying if this is the first time you seen this screen restart or remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive cibtrikkers. check your hard drive to make sure it is properly CONFIGURED and terminated, run chkdsk f/ to check for hard drive CORRUPTION and then restart your computer. stop 0x0000007b, what do I need to doRun chkdsk /f... i did that and that wouldnt fully run it stop half wayI tried to run it again and it said cant run it volume is in use by another programmYOu are booting to the XP CD right? yes i am I have ran the chkdsk, I have scan for virus, I have done everything but everytime I put in the windows cd and tried REFORMAT my comp as soon as it goes to start the cd it comes up with this 0x0000007b number, it is a acer was vista on it when first got it but I had them change the operating system to xp, I have no idea what to do, I have reformated lots of computers and laptops and I have never had a PROBLEM like this and this computer is a year old if that....run hard drive diagnostics http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287 If the drive passes, use a utility like killdisk to completely wipe it out. Then start fresh.I dont have a floppy drive so I wouldnt be able to use the killdiskTry Ultimate BootCDthanks so how do I use the boot cd Same thing you did with the XP disk. Make sure your PC will boot first to CD/DVD ROM. You could read their faq http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/faq.html. If you'd want to erase your harddisk, go to disk wiping tools.this ubcd if I use this to wipe my comp will it muck it up or is it just like a normal formatwill it cause more damage to my computer or will it just be a normal formatFormatting a hard disk will wipe out the data in it. Sorry I wasn't able to read the whole thread, I just want to ask, is this a laptop or a desktop? If it's a desktop we're talking about, you could connect your hard disk to another computer, have it a slaved and you could format or chkdsk it from there.

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