Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

The icons and fonts with the new pc and monitor take up a very small space. How do I enlarge them?Hi Janis
Right click on your DESKTOP & hover your cursor over "View" on the menu. You will be able to select small, MEDIUM or LARGE icons from the view menu.
If you are wanting to enlarge the icons on your taskbar go to settings>personalization>taskbar & turn off the switch for "Use small taskbar BUTTONS". You MIGHT try this one: https://www.wintools.info/index.php/system-font-size-changer

Hi, I upgraded a Toshiba Satellite A100 from windows VISTA to windows 10 and I have connection problems. It doesn't show any network and in the device manager the Intel(R) PRO/100 VE Network Connection and the QUALCOMM Atheros AR5006EG Wireless Network Adapter are having the yellow triangle. I tried to deactivate and activate the two devices a lot of times and finally worked but after I restart my device I have the same problem. I tried to update their drivers but they are already updated. There are a lot of devices with the yellow triangle in the device manager. It doesn't work the scrolling on the touchpad too. Any ideas?Definitely you should install the drivers from toshiba's drivers page. But, to be honest, a100 is kinda an old laptop and windows 7 should be better option for it. ANYWAY, the WIN10 drivers for it you will not FIND so the win7 drivers should (mostly) do the job.

ntoskrnl became disaster for my pc , it consume alot of cpu usage . my laptop sometimes get stuck for 2-3 minutes when i load any app. How can i FIX this one more this i noticed when i open my cd SLOT then ntoskrnl.exe consume only 0.2% i don't know what is the link between these two incident but now i know that cd drive is the main cause for SYSTEM[ntoskrnl.exe] HIGH cpu usage . so please help meeee....You should open the task manager and there you can watch which program causes the spikes of cpu usage.
And btw, what hardware, what OS? Do you have a lot of background running PROGRAMS?

I have two HP LAPTOPS, both running 20H2 with the latest updates. A problem that existed before the upgrade did not GO away after the upgrade like I thought it would.

Both machines are networked through an Ethernet switch to the router and to a printer. I have shared folders on both laptops, and printer sharing is also turned on. When I first turned on sharing, all my shared folders appeared in the File Explorer navigation pane under the Network on both machines, and also in the main pane when I opened the network folder. Sporadically they would stop appearing on either of the machines, sometimes on one, sometimes on the other, sometimes on both. I haven't seen the shared folders in the Navigation Pane for several months now. I was wise enough to map the shared folders as drives on the appropriate machines, so I know my network is good- I can access everything through the mapped drives in My Computer on both machines, and the mapped drives appear in the Navigation Pane on both. i have no problems reading or writing to anything. I have no TROUBLE printing from either machine- basically the network runs just fine. In the opened network view, the two laptops appear as media servers only- the laptops themselves do not appear like they used to.

It's more of an annoyance than anything- it doesn't affect functionality at all, but it just irritates me that what used to work now no longer does. It appears to me that this is just a problem in File Explorer itself. I tried a half dozen or so File Explorer replacements, and they all do the same thing.

Any suggestions?Disable shared folder password protect checkmark (sorry but I use other language on my system so I don't know exact function name)
If you try changing name of computers with their ip range, is it the same?
Disable saving energy OPTION within DRIVERS properties?

Hello

I am trying to install XP as a virtual machine on my Win 10 PC.

This is what I can see in Hyper V: HyperV.jpg

When I try to connect, I GET a message on screen asking me to select Start from the Action menu: toStart.jpg

After clicking Start, I get the following message: Virtual machine could not be started because the hypervisor is not RUNNING.

What should I be doing, please?Hi

There is several both Hardware and software requires which need to be met before you can run Virtual machines.
The best way for us to check all this is you running Speccy from here
https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
After it runs select File , publish report and then copy the URL here for others to view.
What I will be looking for is that you are running Windows Pro 64 bit , the amount of free space in memory and the disk drive and that the services are loading to run Virtual machines.
Or there is this guide
https://www.download3k.com/articles/How-to-add-an-XP-Mode-Virtual-Machine-to-Windows-10-or-8-using-Hyper-V-00770
I think perhaps you haven't enabled hyper v in windows

Thank you, Lisa

This is the Speccy URL: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/7MYYsxa4Xmph86Fz4gfhAbB

If go to Task Manager | Performance tab (attached), it says virtualisation enabled.

Thanks for your help.You first may need to enable Virtualization in the Dell bios from the speccy report I see you are using a Dell Optiplex 380. The service MANUAL section on Virtualization Support attached shows the settings to change.

In my BIOS under Virtualisation Support, there is no 'Trusted Execution' as appears in your screenshot. There are only two items: Virtualisation, which was enabled, and VT for Direct I/O. That was not enabled, so I have enabled it.

Thanks again.Hi
If the is no trusted execution option in means the computer doesn't have a TPM module INSTALLED. Which is not required for running virtual machines.
All the hardware and Windows 10 seems to be configured correctly to run a Virtual Machine.
Is the Windows XP image the one supplied with Windows 10? or one you created?
Another requirement of the Hyper-V hypervisor is the Intel XD bit/AMD NX bit to enabled Data execution prevention. Those settings can also be found (somewhere) in the BIOS, I expect.

I will see if I can find that in the BIOS - thanks BC_ProgrammerI didn't know, Lisa, that Win XP came with Win 10 but, no, I pointed Hyper-V to the SETUP.EXE file for XP that I have in a FOLDER on my desktop.

I am willing to delete the XP Virtual machine I have created (maybe I have set it up wrong?) and start again. If I did that, in Hyper-V Settings, which would I choose from the Add Hardware (please see screenshot), please (I can't remember what I chose last time)?

Thanks for your patience.

You may not be able to run Hyper-v as it requires a 64-bit Processor with Second Level Address Translation (SLAT), which I think the Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 does not have.

You can check your processor yourself, go to this page and download a utility called CoreInfo:
https://www.howtogeek.com/73318/how-to-check-if-your-cpu-supports-second-level-address-translation-slat/

Here are the Hyper-V system requirements:
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/virtualization/hyper-v-on-windows/reference/hyper-v-requirements
======================================================================================
What you can do for now is use VirtualBox, this only requires that the processor has SSE2 (Streaming SIMD Extensions 2) support, which the Q6600 does.
I have used this program for a long time, it is very well designed and doesn't have too many hard parts to learn.
https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/ScreenshotsMany thanks for your informative reply an the links you have kindly posted. I have downloaded VirtualBox - hopefully, I will have better luck with that.

I have recently acquired a laptop and installed WI FI, however I have had problems keeping my connection, A friend has helped with that issue but now my bookmarks and drop down boxes show extremely small print, nothing I do in settings helps, an additional glitch is the computer takes eighty SECONDS to start up. hopefully someone can help me. The computer is an ACER 315 42 R64ERegarding the small print, press Ctrl-0 (Press and hold the Control key and then press the Zero key). This will RESET the browser zoom setting.

Would need more INFO regarding the 80 second STARTUP, maybe it's installing updates or running a virus scan or something like that.what do you mean CTRL-O and which is the zero key do you mean the letter o ? Thanks for your interest.If you have standard hdd installed then 80 seconds is kinda normal. With ssd installed-not. Maybe you have a lot of background programs to run or some acer own software which starts on windows startup.
You mean actual print or just a small view in browser? Did you try scaling option to resize the windows?

Hello

SOUND is cutting out for a moment on both headphones and speakers, first a POP, then programs will LAG, then audio returns. I have TRIED updating reinstalling audio DRIVERS, I have also done a reset. Worried the issue is hardware and not sure what to try next.Is this on a desktop or laptop? If on a desktop, you could try a PCI-e sound card. If on a laptop (desktop too) you could use a USB sound card dongle. Does the periodic lagging also occur when there is no music playing? If so, it probably is hardware.

I just installed 20H2 with an in-place upgrade plus the latest UPDATES on 2 HP laptops (different models). I have had no problems with the 15bs234wm, but I have several on the 15da0053wm. It has a 1 TB WD PCIe/NVMe which I installed just after completing the upgrade/updates, which I cloned from the existing 1 TB SATA hard drive. I disabled the Optane memory in the BIOS, then pulled the drive and the Optane to install the SSD.

I have two problems on the 15da- 1.) 5 of my 8 DESKTOP gadgets won't display properly any more (they all still run just fine on the 15bs) 2.) My notification area won't stay open for me to read notifications- it snaps shut as soon as I move the mouse up into it (the 15bs still works just the same as it always has .

Does anyone have any suggestions? (The problems appeared before I switched out the SATA drive for the SSD, so it's not the drive.) I'd try "Refreshing" Windows. LOOKUP a video on how to do that. It's basically a reset for windows, but only to the system software, not to your programs or settings.

I never really knew what encryption was until recently getting the files off my crashed drive... There should be a screaming banner when you install windows when it makes you set up password saying: BTW anyone can just unplug your drive and get everything off of it, or use just a few simple keystrokes on boot to access everything without the password, lol.



when I checked my hardware requirements as shown here:
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-device-encryption-windows-10-home



I see: "Reasons for failed automatic device encryption tpm is not usable, pcr7 binding is not supported, Hardware security not usable"


motherboard: Gigabyte Z97-HD3 Rev 2.0

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z97-HD3-rev-20#ov

"Along the southern edge of the board, where we usually see a Trusted Platform Module header, Gigabyte has chosen to supply both serial and parallel port headers."

[URL unfurl="true"]https://techreport.com/review/28248/gigabytes-z97-hd3-motherboard-reviewed/[/URL]







i7-4790K Socket H3 LGA-1150

GTX-1050-Ti 4GB GPU

I'm not overclocking CPU or GPU



I don't want to use One Drive or a Microsoft account if that'll enable encryption (something about Home users are more likely to lock themselves out of their computer and having it encrypted makes them loose everything but maybe even if getting the non-requirement I'm seeing if you add the encryption key to One Drive or maybe a MS account it'll let you encrypt, but I don't want One Drive nor an MS account. I don't want to mess with BIOS or anything either not have to plug a USB stick with encryption every bootup. I'd prefer to buy a new motherboard or windows 10 Pro if that'll allow encryption.



I bought Windows 10 home just a few WEEKS ago because my windows 8.1 drive crashed.



I also have two 1TB Western Digital Passport external drives as back ups. They require password to access, as far as I know, (I've tried all folders/options it shows before you can enter the password and there's not data there) but who knows with these things now, maybe I should encrypt them too if possible?



Without this getting too confusing, because I don't want workarounds, maybe even omitting upgrading 10 Home to 10 Pro if possible for a cheaper price than a full 10 Pro ($99 vs $199), I think I'd rather spend the $199, is that the easiest option, or a different motherboard and can at least sell this motherboard?

I can't return this USB version Windows 10 Home to NEWEGG now that I activated it, I didn't make any Microsoft or One Drive accounts with it either so maybe I can just sell it on ebay with the key and there's no chance I can loose any data, correct?

This mobo does not have TPM. I searched the pdf manual for TPM and trusted platform module.
It does have intel Trusted Execution Technology Intel TXT, but I'm not sure if it's the same as TPM.

Intel TXT(LT) Support (Note) Enables or disables Intel® Trusted Execution Technology (Intel® TXT). Intel® Trusted Execution Technology provides a hardware-based security foundation. (Default: Disabled)



Windows10 Pro says here TMP is required for TPM protection, but maybe that's different than Bitlocker?
I guess I'll contact windows and some motherboard manufacturers in the meantime what the best option is.



https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-pro/df77x4d43rkt?activetab=pivot:overviewtab
** Requires TPM 1.2 or greater for TPM based key protection.UPDATE: I just chatted with microsoft and the person said just enable TPM in BIOS but I think I checked everywhere in BIOS and don't see any option (I don't see option for the Intel TXT either). And as mentioned TPM is nowhere mentioned in the PDF manual.

I think I might rather but a new motherboard instead of Windows 10 Pro. Despite any more LOSS if any (I can net about $75 on ebay for this CURRENT motherboard and buy the right one for maybe $140?, or I can buy windows 10 Pro for $199 or upgrade from Home for $99 but I'm not sure if I want two product keys and 2 USB sticks and also as mentioned maybe TPM SEEMS to still required for Windows 10 Pro bitlocker/encryption). Also the only other difference between Home and Pro is Pro is more for networking/sharing and I'd rather it not maybe be more prone to default or wanting to share my data across the router. Read here for info on what hardware and Windows version is required for Bitlocker and Device Encryption:

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-device-encryption-windows-10-home

Hi. I've been trying to find a way to choose which files I'd like to shred in the recycle bin, Win. 10 Pro and then shred them. Simply deleting them
is not secure enough for me, someone could recover them.

Anyone have any ideas as how to do this ? I do not want to shred the entire bin... and to recover them just to shred them is not a realistic
option, too many files.

Many thanksA simple solution to this problem would be to get a PROGRAM like FileShredder from https://www.fileshredder.org/. It allows you to SELECT exactly what files you would like to be shredded, and they would be deemed unrecoverable.

If you are serious about keeping your data secure and fully erasing your data, I would RECOMMEND keeping this sensitive data on a SEPARATE hard disk, and once finished with SAID files on the disk, doing a DOD level format on the disk with a program like DiskWipe from https://www.diskwipe.org/.

When you must delete a shortcut that won't work, how to save its contents?SHORTCUTS don't have contents. What is it you are TRYING to do?Quote from: Guzeppi on March 25, 2021, 04:25:27 PM

When you must delete a shortcut that won't work, how to save its contents?

A few weeks ago, I built my FIRST PC, and I’ve been seeing unexpected behavior around how it sleeps. I’m hoping someone here may be able to help me.

If I go to the Windows start menu and press Sleep through that menu, then the PC appears to go in some kind of deeper sleep, characterized by:

- the monitor turns off
- the power button light is no longer lit constantly. It instead starts BLINKING on and off.
- all RGB lights turn off
- all fans turn off

This is the behavior I expect (and desire) from sleep mode. However, if I instead let the computer sleep due to inactivity, a different kind of mode is entered.

- the monitor turns off
- the power button remains lit, and flashes as if the SSD is being written/read from
- the RGB lights stay on
- the fans stay on

My goal is for the PC to enter the same kind of sleep mode due to inactivity that it enters when I manually choose to sleep it through the start menu.

Here’s what I’ve tested:

- I’ve MADE sure that “Put the computer to sleep” is not set to Never. I usually KEEP it at around 20 minutes, but this morning I’ve been testing with it at 2minutes.
- I disabled Hybrid Sleep in advanced settings.
- I ran powercfg /energy set to 300ms, but it only ran for 117ms, which seems to suggest that the sleep mode is working if this is an indicator that it stopped the process at 2 minutes.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to what might be going on? Or any tips that might help me debug this further? Thank you!

I cannot reset the computer. When I do, the hack tools and corrupt windows32 system folders are still there. My file permissions are super messed up. Whenever I try to fix any of this the system administrator turns off my ability to change SETTINGS within group policy. That is also messed up. I cannot download a file off the internet without it tell me it couldn't be verified. Please help as my computer is basically unusable, oh by the way remote desktop protocol is active and I have windows 10If possible I would order an SSD (might as well speed it up while you fix it). This also may let you skip some steps
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-V-NAND-Solid-MZ-76P512BW/dp/B07836C6YV/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=860+pro&qid=1616788653&sr=8-1

Then create a USB Windows 10 installer from the link below (use a friends computer if yours fails)
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Next, if you did not get an SSD you will want to back up your files
Or if you did buy an SSD but it is a laptop and you don't have a USB to SATA adaptor you will still want to back up your files (if you have the adaptor or it is a desktop you can just grab them off the OLD drive at the end)
https://www.amazon.com/BENFEI-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Compatible/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=usb+to+SATA&qid=1616790297&s=pc&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWRDNOTDNWRTI1NFUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4OTQ3MjkzT001TE45WDVFQzUxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNDY2MzQzVlJFMUlJMk9BQTRMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Install the SSD if you have it

Next boot to the USB Windows 10 installer
- Select Custom
- If it is the original drive make sure you delete all the partitions (this will kill any residual bits of the hack)
- Create a new partition (let it create the extra ones)
- Keep the selection and START the install.

Do not connect to the internet until after the install (this will ALLOW you to create a true local user without a Microsoft account)
- Create a user called Admin and leave the password blank for now
- Turn off all privacy selections except Location (unless you don't care about Microsoft cataloging everything you type)
- Once you are logged in go ahead and connect to the internet and let Windows updates try to get all your drivers
- Check Computer Management (to find it click start and type "computer") -> Device Drivers to make sure it gets everything (and Video is not Generic)
- Hit Ctrl+Alt+Delete and set a password for the Admin user account
- Create a new user (selecting I don't have this person's CREDENTIALS and don't create a Microsoft account) and Enter your name you want for your own profile
- This separates you from being an admin to prevent this problem next time but still lets you enter the admin password to install things
- Now log in to your account and transfer the backed-up files (note it is ok to attach a virus-filled drive to a clean computer but never connect the old computer install to the clean drive prior to starting as it has the opportunity to exploit the new drive).

Your License should be discovered from the BIOS so in most cases, it will not ask you for a key unless you upgraded from Windows 7

Hope this is helpful

Mike

For the second time I have been able to boot normally after a BSOD, if I chose the Safe Mode OPTION first. What magic can Safe Mode be applying ?Don't have an answer for you. You should be able to boot normally after most BSOD's. When does the BSOD appear and what is it?

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is DONE, GO to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in NOTEPAD, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next REPLY

I had a windows 8.1 PC crash, it wasn't getting internet no matter any basic fixes I tried, so I just did a 'Refresh Without Affecting Your Files' but then it froze at "Setting up a few more things".

I made some posts and was told it did something like ran out of space and just could not complete the refresh/install, it kept freezing %3 "Setting Up a Few More Things". It was only a 2450GB drive, would have been nice if it warned me or something.

I then bought a new 1TB SSD and Windows 10 and was able to get most of my stuff back but I can't find the Chrome bookmark file(s) in
C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Bookmarks)

There's not even a Google folder before there.

I have Show hidden folders and files enabled.

I did not install Chrome yet on this Windows 10 drive because that might conflict with the old copy of Chrome. In my bottom left Search bar I searched 'bookmark', then search by Document, but it finds nothing either.


Along the lines I may have deleted a chrome icon in the old drive, I'm not really sure. I did have Chrome installed on the new Windows 10 drive at the time and maybe it was conflicting or something but I'm not sure if I even deleted a Chrome icon or anything Chrome or Google RELATED in the crashed drive.



thanksforgot to mention, obviously I didn't use sync or a google account to back these up.

Also, the drive I'm trying to get bookmarks from is not
C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Bookmarks)

It's D: drive, The new windows 10 is C drive. Depending on what advice you read, the file "Bookmarks" - it does not have a file extension - can be found here:
C:\Users\\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default

But if you had more than one profile in Chrome, it could be in "Default" or "Profile 1" or "Profile 2"

The easiest way of finding the "Bookmarks" file without having to worry about showing hidden files or navigating to the right folder, is to use a program called Everything - this QUICKLY indexes every file on your hard drive(s) and is way faster and better than windows search, and it has a portable version too if you don't want to install it - I use it all the time because of its speed and ability to instantly narrow down a search.
Download it here: https://www.voidtools.com

When you load the program, All you need to do is type in "bookmarks", and it will list every location of that file. Obviously you are looking for the one on the D: drive, not anything that is found on C:

If it does find the old "Bookmarks" file
Click on the file once to highlight it, then either press Ctrl+C, or on the Menu bar click Edit > Copy
You can close Everything now if you want
Either on the desktop or a folder of your choice, paste the "Bookmarks" file you just copied (right click > Paste)
Now go to this website, which will convert the "Bookmarks" file into an HTML file that you can import in your newly installed copy of Chrome:

https://rongjiecomputer.github.io/chrome/bookmark-recovery/#windows

Click on "Choose a file" in the box
Save the HTML file to your hard drive, now you can import it into Chrome
I read various other forum threads which say your chrome bookmarks DO get removed from -Refresh Your PC without Affecting You Files-, but they should be moved to a newly created folder C:\Windows.old (or maybe in my case D:\), either way, I don't see the chrome or bookmarks files.

I was suggested Everything.exe and search for bookmarks and if not found assume it's gone. Remember this is a FAILED Refresh that keeps freezing at %3 'Setting Up a Few More Things", suposidly from the drive itseld running out of space, so maybe it never finished the :\Windows.old Chrome copying.

I do have Show Hidden Files and Folders enabled.
Someone said it could be in "Default" or "Profile 1" or "Profile 2".


Also was suggested:
If System Restore was enabled on the crashed drive you might be able to get your bookmarks using Shadow Explorer. Download the portable version.
Read the documentation. Click the dropdown box to select your drive letter of the crashed drive. If it finds any Restore Point it should let you browse to your Chrome Folder
https://www.shadowexplorer.com/downloads.html
https://www.shadowexplorer.com/documentation/manual.html


If neither works, I'll wait a few more days and maybe someone will come along with another solution, if not, then the drive is getting broken up into pieces and I'll definitely be sure to synch or back up bookmarks regularly for now on.
I downloaded the portable version of ShadowExplorer to try out and see what is possible - it looks like it can only recover the files (and drives) of the Windows system it is running in, there isn't an option to select which shadow copies it is searching, ie your old windows drive.
All I can say is try it, you may be lucky and it opens those too.

A good option would be to try Recuva, a hard drive recovery program, and see if it can find the deleted copy of the Bookmarks file.

I would be tempted to try both of these.Shadowexplorer shows me a drop down to select C:/ (current working drive), D:/ (crashed 8.1 System Reserved) or E:/ (main crashed 8.1 drive). It shows nothing in the 8.1 drives though.


In the crashed drive, I clicked on windows.old or Windows.old(1) and got a permission error. tried again and pressed Continue as admininstrator and it shows the files (but no google folder or bookmarks where it would be).


Everything.exe doesn't find anything for 'bookmark' except for my current Edge C drive. Everything.exe does search both C and E (crashed) drive confirmed by searching for things only found on the E drive. BTW D:/ is the crashed drive too but is System Reserved and only a few Temp and Recovery files (a blank Recovery.text file) files.


With Windows 10 now installed, when I boot with both drives connected, W10 flashes a press any key to skip disc checking, for once I let that go through and it actually did complete and said it was doing it for the crashed E:/ drive, but seems like nothing changed and still can't find files. I then tried booting with only the E drive connected hoping it was somehow fixed but it did the same freeze at %3 "setting up a few more things" then red error box Restart the installation to proceed (or something like that, which would likely wipe everything though).

I then Tried ShadowExplorer but it shows nothing at all in the right window for D and E crashed 8.1 drive. C:/ (current Windows 10) shows it correclty like the instructions say "This is what ShadowExplorer looks like if everything works CORRECTLY."
So I guess there's not even a system restore point saved on the crashed drive, correct? I did have system restore enabled on that drive. I think I even tried that before 'Refresh your PC without affecting your files' caused this whole problem.

BTW, I uninstalled Everything.exe though control panel but I don't see ShadowExplorer to now uninstall it. Is it not shown because it's just the portable zip version I downloaded to desktop and is not actually an installed program, and I could just delete those files?

Someone asked if I installed Chrome on the new windows 10 drive, didn't say why but I'll do that now and do these checks again and can delete Chrome right after. I do plan on switching back to Chrome once this is all over (either solved or not).

also will try now: "A good option would be to try Recuva, a hard drive recovery program, and see if it can find the deleted copy of the Bookmarks file."

Last thing I'll try after any more suggestions if any, is boot with the 8.1 CD and only the 8.1 drive and Do whatever install option it shows least likely to wipe everything and hope that fixes it at least to make a Windows.old folder or something. I think the only option it has now though is to fully format and reinstall windows deleting anything on there now. I installed Chrome to my new non-problem drive, searched the old drive for files, tried Everything.exe again but it found nothing. There's no new Google or Chrome folder in the crashed drive in E:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Bookmarks
I also made sure to save a new bookmark in chrome because I read the boobkmark files won't even be created until you save one.


I then tried Recuva and set it to search the E:/
Recuva found 1.9 million E:/ files.
Then Searched 'bookmark' in Everything.exe didn't find anything on the E:/ but maybe it doesn't search Recuva results


Searched Recuva results, I specified 'bookmark' in E:/ didn't find anything. It takes a while like 30 mins to do a full 1.9 million file scan but I ended up doing that twice since unsure exactly how to search for a specific file name, then I clicked FILE NAME row top bar to show results in alphabetical order and scroll to b, and I do see several 'excellent' condition 'bookmark' files. Some are unrecoverable, or very poor but there's 5 Excellent.

There's 3 excellent named bookmarks, bookmarks_1, and bookmarks_3
And 2 excellent bookmarks.bak and bookmarks_1.bak

But I exported them to desktop, and when I copy paste them to my current chrome folder and overwite the existing, neither combination of any of these brings back any old bookmarks.
Is there a special way to do this? convert it to html or something and Import option Chrome has?When you move them to the desktop its just a shortcut....create a new folder....give each a name or # and copy them to there.I posted a reply to this, don't know if it was removed....

Go to this website and upload the file(s) you recovered, I would start with the one with the latest modification time

https://rongjiecomputer.github.io/chrome/bookmark-recovery/#windowsI get Error! The file is invalid. Try again! when I try to convert these bookmark and bookmark.bak files which Recuva recovered when using this tool that's supposed to convert them to usable .html
https://rongjiecomputer.github.io/chrome/bookmark-recovery/#windows



The only information I found on that are these two non-english translated posts, basically saying the files might be unusable?
https://support.google.com/chrome/thread/93223653?hl=pt-BR
https://www.drwindows.de/xf/threads/chrome-bak-datei-beschädigt.148054/


BTW, I know I ended up with bookmark, bookmarks_1 and bookmarks_2 because they would have otherwise overwrite each other. So I REMOVE the _1 and _2 before trying to just copy paste them into the chrome folder. But I think I need to convert them first anyway. Recuva says they're Excellent condition and does have other bookmark files in Poor or Unusable condition which I didn't extract from the results.



I right click these files>properties, it says it's either a 'file' for the bookmarks and the .bak ones says it's a .bak file.

When I try to open these files, I get a bunch of weird symbols like this á¥Wïø.
I don't want to copy paste too much in case there's a password or something in there.

I don't know what format this is, maybe there's something that can just convert it to English and then I can at least have text of what the bookmarks were?

Maybe extracting directly to desktop makes it a shortcut and I should have instead extracted to a folder. I'll try another Recuva scan in the meantime but doubtful that I only extracted Shortcuts to the decktop from Recuva.I made a previous thread but it got real messy and confusing, I don't think a lot of people would bother reading it at this point.

In simple, with my windows 8.1 computer was fine but wasn't getting internet even though other PCs on router were. I tried some basic network disable then enable etc but nothing worked so I did a REFRESH YOUR PC WITHOUT AFFECTING YOUR FILES (yea, right). It kept freezing at %3 SETTING UP A FEW MORE THINGS. I was told the 240GB SSD ran out of space or something and basically bricked itself. Luckily I was able to get my most important stuff back from that drive but not my bookmarks. I did not synch anything nor did I use a Google account.

I then bought a new 1TB SSD and Windows 10.

When simply viewing the crashed drive there's not even a google folder where it should be in C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Bookmarks
But I've been able to retreive Chrome bookmarks and bookmarks.bak files through Recuva program. I saved them to C: drive BTW, in case Desktop would make them maybe just a 'shortcut'.

Recuva found several Poor condition and unrecoverable condition bookmark files, but 5 are Excellent with no bad clusters (or whatever it says).
Some people can open these files with wordpad or notepad and at least see the URLs and copy them, but I open them and get a bunch of weird symbols and/or Korean writing (Auto detect Google translate says it's Korean but doesn't convert to English, only a few English words here and there, nothing usable).
The file contents look like:
Ϧp¶[w
or
繩湡

These files are like 5 pages long (I had like 350 bookmarks) and don't want to post too much in case there's passwords or something that can still be converted but you get the idea.

Chrome Bookmarks Recovery Tool https://rongjiecomputer.github.io/chrome/bookmark-recovery/#windows
"Error! The file is invalid. Try again!"
I get an error trying to convert these to .html which this is meant for.


Recuva found files named bookmarks, bookmarks_1, and _2, and bookmarks.bak, bookmarks_1.bak.
I tried manually putting these in C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Bookmarks
and removing the _1 and _2 one at a time and restarting Chrome but nothing worked.


I removed .bak to make it just bookmarks, I read that should be done even if you also retreived the non-.bak bookmarks file. That didn't work.

I made a copy of the retrieved files and renamed them .html to Import and test each one at once through Chrome as an .html file. Chrome says it worked but there are no bookmarks.


Yes I will now regularly back up bookmarks. And noting REFRESH YOUR PC WITHOUT AFFECTING FILES is a last resort for a more serious problem if need be and to back everything up beforehand and expect a lot more to be deleted than it makes it seem. I posted a reply in the other forum you are using, in the old thread - there is no new one anymore (removed / deleted)I merged the threads. One thread per topic please.Welp this is my last shot:

I'll try these recovery tools besides Recuva. I heard them may give different results.
sqlitebrowser.org
www.easeus.com
I'll also recovered random txt files with these and recuva and see if they're readable.
If I don't post back, assume this didn't work for the bookmarks files.
In the end, I'm much more happy that I was able to get my other more important stuff back than loosing my bookmarks.

I really don't see why it was a problem that I asked this question on multiple forums. Yes I asked on like 9 forums, this may be a tricky problem, but at least someone mentioned a recovery program which DID find 5 bookmarks files in "excellent condition' but ended up not being usable. And I don't get why the second thread was deleted, it could have helped others searching with similar problem.
Anyway, thanks for any suggestions, take care. Some things to keep in mind when attempting data recovery.
1.Diagnose the drive which has your data to decide the best method to use to recover the data.

2.Disable the computer from writing to the drive you are recovering from, also don't run any tools which write to the drive and especially don't run CHKDSK

3. Make a bit copy to another drive of the drive you are recovering this can be to a file or a physical drive. DON'T run recovery software on an SSD drive. A SSD drive does a lot of house keeping
in the background which can mess up the data you are trying to recover.

4. If you are recovering files like chrome bookmarks use recovery software which can recreate the file structure and research where the files are stored. Copying off the files from the original
locations is often best, good recovery software will give information about the condition of the file.
5. Recucva is a great tool, but I think you would be better with reclaim me in this situation. https://www.reclaime.com/

Please can anyone help? For some time, after some updates succeeding the upgrade I made from Windows 10 Home to Pro, I have been unable to wake the Acer laptop using the Wake button or any of the other usual methods. Instead, I have forceably shut down and restarted, which, I am sure, doesn't do the machine any good. I thought I had found a solution on a Windows help site, but I GOT distracted and have since been unable to find it again. There seem to be any number of ways to send the machine to sleep, or hibernate, but I have found no indication of how to make the Wake button do what it is supposed to do. Does anyone know the solution?Have you tried consulting the manual for this laptop?Unplug your computer’s power supply and REMOVE its battery using the above procedure. Hold the power button down with your finger for at least 30 seconds, but you can also hold it for more, if you’d like. Two minutes is probably more than enough and five minutes is definitely more than enough. This will clear out any stored charge in your computer. Hold down the power button for at least 30 seconds. Release the power button, and plug your computer’s power supply back in (assuming that you know the power supply works). You don’t need the battery yet. Wait a minute or so, then hold down the power button to turn it on.
Quote from: Mr_Patton on January 12, 2021, 08:25:55 AM

Unplug your computer’s power supply and remove its battery using the above procedure. Hold the power button down with your finger for at least 30 seconds, but you can also hold it for more, if you’d like. Two minutes is probably more than enough and five minutes is definitely more than enough. This will clear out any stored charge in your computer. Hold down the power button for at least 30 seconds. Release the power button, and plug your computer’s power supply back in (assuming that you know the power supply works). You don’t need the battery yet. Wait a minute or so, then hold down the power button to turn it on.

I have been trying to get system restore to work and TRIED more than one restore point. I ALWAYS get an ERROR message that resort could not be completed. Is there a work a round for this?Hi with Windows 10 system restore will not work if there has been an update installed since the restore point was made. If you are WANTING to do a system restore because windows is not starting there is the options of removing the latest update or going back to an earlier build. This is available from the recovery console.

To access the recovery console . Please refer here. https://how2do.org/how-to-open-the-windows-10-recovery-console/

Also system restore won't not work if there is a hardware PROBLEM like a full hard drive or a failing hard drive.

Can you explain why you need to revert back to an earlier restore point?

I'm working on a CUSTOM softphone application and running into a problem. I would really LIKE to redirect the tel: links to a application on my PC. I have figgured out I need to add my application to the windows TEL; URL:tel option list. HOWEVER all solutions I'm finding don't seem to work. This documentation isn't working for me (yes i have restarted multiple times) some peaple say it isn't posible in windows 10 annymore, however there are a few third-party application that are POPPING up. The applictions are not from the windows store so that can't be the issue either.

The .reg export I ended up with looks like this:

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\tel]
@="URL:Tel test"
"URL Protocol"=""

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\tel\DefaultIcon]
@="C:\\Test\\Test.exe"

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\tel\shell]

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\tel\shell\open]

[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\tel\shell\open\command]
@="C:\\Test\\Test.exe" "%1"

I would really appriciate anny tips towards the solution.Hi, I'm not familiar with setting this up, but can hopefully help, I found some info on the page below:
https://superuser.com/questions/1112229/cant-change-tel-protocol-handler-in-windows-10

Here are my thoughts:

First of all, are there supposed to be two back slashes \\ when you are referring to a file destination? Windows only has a single \ in filenames -
You used:
@="C:\\Test\\Test.exe"

Shouldn't it be:
@="C:\Test\Test.exe"

I read through all the code on that page, and there is a double backslash \\ used, but not for a filename, it looks like its for how you set the Dialler name in the registry

Also, when you replace @="dialer %1" with your filename, I don't think you keep the %1 part, so it just becomes @="C:\Test\Test.exe"

HOPE this may be some help.

Message HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GT30N file missing.
How do I put it RIGHT? I have run troubleshooter with no LUCK.

Any info will help.try to download the latest version of HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GT30N driversThanks. Do I get this from TOSHIBA (my LAPTOP) or Microsoft?
Toshiba...

My wife and I both have identical ACER laptops, and we get Emails forwarded by a friend which have videos. My wife can DOWNLOAD and show them fine, not so on my computer. How can I change whatever SETTING is different on mine?
Thanks much, you guys are always so helpful for us over-the-hillers!When you recieve a video in an email...right clik it and select open with...then choose the app of your choice to USE.Patio, that doesn't work on my computer. I have to right-click and use "save as". Once it's saved to my computer I can right-click and use Open with.In the same vein Right now I'm reading a story on yahoo that has grey boxes that should have a photo in them but they are just blank. I tried right clicking but no luck.You may have turned off "Show Images" in your browser, check in the browser settings.

Also check if you are running any extensions that can block parts of WEBPAGES, such as Adblock Plus, Ghostery, uBlock Origin etc, these will show as small icons in the top right of the browser, on the same line as the adress bar.

If you are still stuck, reply with which browser you are using (and version of Windows) I can help you further.

Somehow I ACCIDENTALLY turned on the preview PANE. Now I can't turn it off. How do RETURN to the DEFAULT setting?https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=explorer+preview+pane

I have an Acer laptop (Ryzen 5 2500U/8GB DDR4/256GB SSD/Windows 10 Home) that is stuck on the Acer logo splash screen.

I hadn't used it for several weeks and now it can't get past the Acer logo. Can't even see the Windows loading icon that used be displayed below the logo.

I tried all the troubleshooting actions that I could - keeping it ON for long time, RESTARTING several times, battery reset, disconnecting & connecting internal components, checking if the internal fan works, and few other things that I might be missing here.

The laptop does go into BIOS, where I changed the boot sequence to format/reset via USB drive. The laptop detects USB drive in BIOS but it doesn't boot from the USB drive when I restart it. I think the only thing left to do here is BIOS reset, but that might also strip the preinstalled Windows 10 key.

Thus, before taking it to a computer store/technician, this post is my last resort.

TIA!Hpw did you build the USB stik ? ?
Quote from: nickthomson1103 on January 21, 2021, 10:06:49 AM

I think the only thing left to do here is BIOS reset, but that might also strip the preinstalled Windows 10 key.

Thus, before taking it to a computer store/technician, this post is my last resort.

TIA!

Hpw did you build the USB stik ? ?

Resetting the bios to the defaults will not loose the windows 10 activation.

Is the hard drive showing in the bios? if not there is no point in getting the Laptop to boot from USB. You need first to diagnose why the SSD drive is not detecting. With it being a Ryzen have you checked the warranty ? also seems a bit strange it has a 256gb ssd most Acers the Ryzen CPU's were supplied with 1TB drives. Maybe the drive is not seated correctly.

If you take it to a tech they will be able to check these things for you.

Did you make a reflect usb pendrive to do the drive transfer. If you still have it I would boot from that and check the partitions are showing on the 2 drives.

Also if you have access to another computer try booting the windows 10 Pen drive just to check it works if it does boot ok on another computer then try removing the 1 TB drive from the Laptop and see if it boots from the M2 drive.

Please keep us posted

Are you pressing F10 to save changes and exit after making USB boot priority ? ?

I followed these instructions: "How to Run a Linux Desktop Using the Windows Subsystem for Linux".
But instead of installing the LXDE environment I chose Gnome. Other than that I did exactly as instructed.

So towards the end of the page after running XLaunch, I am supposed to enter this command "startlxde", assuming I installed the LXDE environment. So what am I supposed to enter if I installed Gnome? startgnome did not work.
Update: I tried "startx"
It told me that that command was not found, but I could INSTALL "xinit", so I did.
When I used "startx" again after installing xinit, it replied this:

Code: [SELECT]startx xauth: file /home/drpeppercan/.Xauthority does not exist config/udev: failed to bind the udev monitor [config] failed to pre-init udev X.Org X Server 1.20.9 X Protocol Version 11, Revision 0 Build Operating System: Linux 4.15.0-130-generic x86_64 Ubuntu Current Operating System: Linux DESKTOP-TKTALUL 4.4.0-19041-Microsoft #488-Microsoft Mon Sep 01 13:43:00 PST 2020 x86_64Kernel command line: BOOT_IMAGE=/kernel init=/init Build Date: 17 January 2021 09:13:31AM xorg-server 2:1.20.9-2ubuntu1.2~20.04.1 (For technical support please see HTTP://www.ubuntu.com/support) Current version of pixman: 0.38.4 Before reporting problems, check http://wiki.x.org to make sure that you have the latest version. Markers: (--) probed, (**) from config file, (==) default setting, (++) from command line, (!!) notice, (II) informational, (WW) warning, (EE) error, (NI) not implemented, (??) unknown. (==) Log file: "/var/log/Xorg.0.log", Time: Sat Mar 6 07:12:48 2021 (==) Using system config directory "/usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d" (EE) Fatal server error: (EE) xf86OpenConsole: Switching VT failed (EE) (EE) Please consult the The X.Org Foundation support at http://wiki.x.org for help. (EE) Please also check the log file at "/var/log/Xorg.0.log" for additional information. (EE) (EE) Server terminated with error (1). Closing log file. xinit: connection to X server lost deallocvt: ioctl VT_DISALLOCATE: Inappropriate ioctl for device


Thanks guys

JDLNever mind about this thread.
This is where I stand now: "Ubuntu in Windows 10 WSL won't access the Internet "

Thanks

The SSL isn't exactly ready for prime time...it would be far less painful to install Ubuntu on a seperate HDD and Dual-boot...just my opinion.

Just yesterday, it started running considerably slower than usual. I tried cleaning it out, defragging, uninstalling, changing what programs are running, etc. but no effect. Also it's running quieter than usual when I try to load up a game to play. Any ideas?Welcome to the forum.

Please define slower..... EXACTLY WHAT is slow? Also, what does "cleaning it out" mean?
And please provide either the model or specs of your laptop.I'm sorry, I don't really how to define slower, just noticeably slower seemingly out of nowhere. By "cleaning it out", I just mean I deleted a bunch of files I was TOLD were safe to delete (all after it slowed down, of course). I also don't know how to find the specs you might be needing.

I'm mostly just asking the general question of what could make something like that occur if you didn't download or install anything new, didn't even visit any new websites or open any emails.please Publish a Snapshot using Speccy, taking care to post the link of the snapshot in your next post.

Go to website, and download the free version on the left. CLICK Download from ccleanercom (the FileHippo link requires an extra click). Or if you want to use a portable version of Speccy (which doesn't require installation), click the builds page link and download the portable version. You will now be asked where you want to save the file. The best place to put it is the Desktop, as it will be easy to find later.

After the file finishes downloading, you are READY to run Speccy. If you downloaded the installer, simply double-click on it and follow the prompts until installation is complete. If you downloaded the portable version, you will need to unzip it before use. Right-click the ZIP file and click EXTRACT all. Click Next. Open up the extracted folder and double-click on Speccy.

Once inside Speccy, it will look similar to this (with your computer's specifications, of course):



Now, at the top, click File > Publish Snapshot.

Click Yes > then Copy to Clipboard

Now, once you are back in the forum topic you are posting in, click the ADD REPLY or REPLY TO THIS TOPIC button. Right-click in the empty space of the Reply box and click Paste. Then, click Post below the Reply box.

Also, I cannot run Software (like the Windows Store). It says:
"Sorry, something went wrong: Failed to CONNECT to system D-Bus: Could not connect: No such file or directory"

Advanced Network Configuration in menu://applications/Preferences won't run.
This is what I got when running "IFCONFIG" to check the network connectivity:
lo: flags=73<UP,LOOPBACK,RUNNING> mtu 1500
inet 127.0.0.1 netmask 255.0.0.0
inet6 ::1 prefixlen 128 scopeid 0xfe<compat,link,site,host>
loop (Local Loopback)
RX packets 0 bytes 0 (0.0 B)
RX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 frame 0
TX packets 0 bytes 0 (0.0 B)
TX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 carrier 0 collisions 0

wifi0: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST> mtu 1500
inet 192.168.2.38 netmask 255.255.255.0 broadcast 192.168.2.255
inet6 fe80::7d47:8a6d:593f:fc28 prefixlen 64 scopeid 0xfd<compat,link,site,host>
ether 94:e7:0b:51:8a:d8 (Ethernet)
RX packets 0 bytes 0 (0.0 B)
RX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 frame 0
TX packets 0 bytes 0 (0.0 B)
TX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 carrier 0 collisions 0

I haven't touched the Firewall, maybe that's the problem. I just don't know exactly which apps to let through nor how exactly.


This is the summary of the steps I followed before:

• Start by clicking Start and entering "turn windows". The Turn Windows Features on or off ITEM should be displayed. Then scroll down to Windows Subsystem for Linux.

• Restart Windows.
• OPEN the Windows Store, search for Linux, and install Ubuntu.
• Once complete, click Launch from within the Windows Store or open it from the Start menu.
  On the first run, you'll be prompted to input a username and password to CREATE a user account.
• Run these commands
  sudo apt update
  sudo apt upgrade
• While this upgrade is running, head to Sourceforge to download and install the VcXsrv Windows X Server utility.
• Install the Linux desktop. Many Linux desktop environments are available but to keep things simple we'll install LXDE:
  sudo apt install lxde
• Following installation of LXDE, input these commands:
  export DISPLAY=:0
  export LIBGL_ALWAYS_INDIRECT=1
• Open the Xlaunch tool, and choose One large window, and Display number: 0
  Click Next on the following pages until the end.
• Start the LXDE desktop environment
  startlxde

• Open Ubuntu
• Enter these commands:

• Open the Xlaunch tool, and choose One large window, and Display number: 0
  Click Next on the following pages until the end.
• Start the LXDE desktop environment

I had to replace my desktop today. The hard drive from my old one is fine, and has work files and software on it that I want to keep. The new system doesn't want to boot to the old drive (and it's Windows 7, and I have a fresh INSTALL of 10 on the SSD in the new system.

Is there a way for me to add the software on the old drive to the Windows 10 menu without reinstalling it? I'm guessing it would involve some registry EDITING, which I'm not opposed to, but I would need some direction.Hi

Does the new computer see the files on the windows 7 drive ? when you try to boot the new computer from the Windows 7 drive how far does it get? Once you are able to boot Windows 7 it may be an option to upgrade 7 to 10 then transfer the old computers drive to the new ssd. There isn't a way to transfer programs from one version of windows to another version. You would need to re install the the programs then do a data transfer.

Most new CPU's and motherboards will cause Windows 7 to crash booting thou. Like they don't support windows other than 10.

If you run Speccy from here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/builds on the new computer booting into windows 10
Then select file / Publish report and copy the link GIVEN back here. We can check WHETHER the computer will run windows 7.The "new" computer isn't really new - it's a repurposed old one that I'm using while waiting for the parts for my new one. It will run 7 ok, and I can access the files on it fine, but when I try to boot to the old drive it will bluescreen every time.

I think what I'm going to have to do is reinstall the software that I need to use, and eventually I'll move the old files to a temporary home and then wipe the old drive and use it for extra storage. I'd hoped for something easier, but the more I mess with it the more I see that that isn't going to happen lol.

I want to install Kaspersky anti virus on the pc. Do I need to delete Microsoft first?no, it will disable itself. The FIREWALL option will remain THOUGH: Unless you are having kaspersky internet security.Yes, you can go AHEAD and install Kaspersky, there's NOTHING to remove first.
Make sure to check, though, whether you don't already have an antivirus program, even a trial version, like MCAFEE or Avast.

I did it via regedit with these instructions.
But now some of my apps' shortcuts in the Start up menu are no longer working. It's no big deal, I just removed them from the Start up menu, FOUND their respective executable files, and put them in the taskbar instead. It's not ideal, but the new shortcut does call the executable successfully.
I hope I won't find any serious issues down the road.
Does anyone know if this is a known bad practice that will AFFECT Windows 10 in an important way?

Thanks in advance guys

DPCIt eventually will because the pointers in the reg are all listed to the original destination DRIVE...
Just curious why did you need to do this ? ?

If you are speaking of newly installed apps you should have no issues...As patio said, you won't have any problems other than having to change your CURRENT shortcuts. I'm guessing you installed a second, larger drive or created a larger partition? In any event, not a big deal - Windows doesn't care where your files are.

I've been trying to get on some webcams and I keep GETTING a message Player embedding is not allowed. What is that and how do I get rid of it? I never had any problems getting on webcams before.
Here is a guide on troubleshooting webcam issues. Hope it will help https://helpx.adobe.com/flash-player/kb/troubleshoot-webcam-issues-windows-flash.htmlI don't KNOW WHETHER it helped Debby, but it helped me, thanks!Quote from: Hind24P on January 31, 2021, 07:57:25 AM

I don't know whether it helped Debby, but it helped me, thanks!

I tried to load. CUE with "Daemon tools LITE"
But I cannot OPEN it and it will DISPLAY "Please LOGIN with administrator privileges and try again

Hello

I am getting a 'Can't Mount file' ERROR in Win 10 after having created a virtual XP computer in Hyper V. I was hoping to see a XP layout on my desktop and see the WORLD, so to speak, through a XP LENS.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!

I recently bought a 2TB flash drive (which is unbelievable, but that's beside the point) to use as a Music Library. I currently have an external drive plugged into my router, but the physical space is more conducive for a stick.

My router doesn't support exFatso I reformatted the stick from ExFat to NTFS. The backup SAID it went OK, but then a number of the files weren't accessible. The "Scan/Repair" drive wouldn't work, it gave me some weird ERROR, so I tossed the stick and got a new one.

Just backed it all up again on to the new stick. Everything copied fine - so it said. But then when I plugged the stick in, it wouldn't read. So I plugged it into my PC and got the "Errors with this drive - would you like to scan and repair" and I would so I did and it came back with "Windows was unable to repair the drive".

So my question is - am I screwing something up by reformatting it as NTFS?

Is this plugged into a USB 3.0 jack instead of 2.0 as well as are you properly dismounting the drive from system by telling it that you want to remove it or are you just pulling it out with IMPROPER dismount where corruption can occur? Reason for the USB 3.0 vs 2.0 question is that the 3.0 is a faster method of communication and the dismount of the value would be faster on a USB 3.0 port especially since its 2TB which is Huge when it comes to a slow flash drive.

With the 2TB in a USB connection I would have gone with a USB 2TB SSD drive for better performance, but maybe the lag of a USB stick isnt that bad. My larger USB sticks 256GB in size are quite laggy compared to my Samsung Portable 250GB SSD drive.Quote

I recently bought a 2TB flash drive (which is unbelievable, but that's beside the point)

But how does that even work - how does it make the PC think there's more there than is there?

Hello

I have managed to ENABLE Virtualisation in Win 10 and INSTALLED Hyper-V. This what I can now see (attached). In ORDER to install WINDOWS XP, do I now need XP in .ISO format? I have Win XP Pro on a disk, but that's not quite the same, is it?

Thanks again.

I wanted to run ERUNT and then save the back up to a USB drive. Even finding the USB drive on screen was difficult. No more nice WIN 7 layout of all drives!!! When I tell Erunt to save the backup registry all I get is an error MESSAGE. How do i ACCOMPLISH this or is it not possible?I have my Win 10 configured to run like Windows 7. First you NEED to see if you transfer an ordinary file or picture to your USB stick. If that works , save your Erunt file to your computer and then SEND it to your USB drive.Speaking of Windows 10 having issues with USB sticks, I have a problem, too. I've recently bought a 32gb USB stick and tried to PUT a 5gb movie on it. To no avail. Every time I try, I get an error message saying that the file is too big. I checked, there are actually 30+ free gigabytes on the stick. I've tried to put 5, 10, 20 gb's worth of other files on that stick, and it works. Still, I can't copy that one movie there. What should I do?If the Drive is formatted as Fat32 the largest file you can save is 4 GB. You need to format it in NTFS if you need to save single files larger than 4GB to the pen drive.

Hi my computer tries himself as Picasso and is doing strange things. I am pretty sure it's not the graphics card since PROBLEMS LIKE this only happen in my browser.

I pretty EXPERIENCED with computers HOWEVER I have never SEEN something like this. Anyone any idea ?

Not sure if this is Windows 10 or MS Office or some combination issue.

Since a Windows update followed by an Office update 25/1/21 I'm getting:-

ONENOTEM.EXE Application Error, Unable to start correctly 0xc0000142

I did not realise full the significance of thie until a few days later I tried to use MS Word and MS Excel. These go straight to an UPDATING screen, then after a delay with the accessing swirling dots, end as above but with their exe name, eg WINWORD.EXE, Unable to start, etc.

Help please.

Please READ the response dated 12/14 in this thread: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/msoffice/forum/all/the-application-was-unable-to-start-correctly/8f320d46-4bb2-4caf-980e-d75a81657fc6

Does that apply?Thanks for that.

I had SEARCHED here and elsewhere but had not hit the right wording combination to get that to appear. Yes, I followed the head post information.

I'm always very wary of reloading MS product, too much experience of screwed up account/validation/etc on their part. Yes, this forced full account validation, complicated by having two versions to the same EMail, but at least this TIME it did work.





Glad it's sorted out. Thanks for letting us KNOW.

How to VIEW a video of myself that I have made on my computer?

I am on Windows 10.

My problem: what to do to open the video so that I can view it on the pc? Which button/s do I have to hit?

Thank you for helping an 82-yr-old dummy...

Joe B.Do you know by chance where it was saved? You can DOUBLE click files with your MOUSE to open them, if thats whats being asked.

If not, can you possibly clarify a bit?

Edit: I just thought of something about a minute after posting. If the default Windows 10 player does not play it/audio, you can I believe right click on it to open a menu that should say "Open With" somewhere. Hover over that, and it should list what you could play it with.
(Keep in MIND this is only if you have another player installed and if it does not play correctly at first. If not, ignore the extra complication.)Try My documents folder or my videos folder of computer. Mostly Softwares save video in their own software name folder type.
Quote from: Guzeppi on January 13, 2021, 04:06:21 AM

How to view a video of myself that I have made on my computer?

I am on Windows 10.

My problem: what to do to open the video so that I can view it on the pc? Which button/s do I have to hit?

Thank you for helping an 82-yr-old dummy...

Joe B.

Hey, about a week and a half ago I upgraded my system to a Ryzen 5 5600X with a B550 motherboard, and it seemed to be working fine. However, at some point, I started getting MEMORY_MANAGEMENT BSODs, and they became more frequent, to the point of me booting my computer and getting a BSOD as soon as I open a single program. I also got some other errors, like IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL and CRITICAL_STRUCTURE_CORRUPTION. Here's what I've tried:

Ran Memtest86 and Windows Memory Diagnostic, both returned 0 problems with the memory.
Disabled XMP and Memory Fast Boot
Reinstalled Windows
Ran in Safe Mode
Updated the motherboard BIOS (used both the one that first added support for Zen 3 and the newest one that came out after)
Swapped my SSD
Cleared my CMOS
Ran Ubuntu (got kernel panic while trying to load the OS, due to an error along the lines of "Memory corruption detected in low memory", and "not syncing: Fatal exception in interrupt"
Disabled system virtual memory

I even tried reinstalling Windows a second time, at which point it crashed DURING the installation off the USB stick. I didn't even know it was possible to BSOD the Windows USB. After that, I feel like software issues and the windows installation are ruled out as causes. The BIOS update probably RULES out that BIOS being the problem. The RAM diagnostics both also rule out the RAM (although I'm still a bit suspicious because I'm still using the sticks I bought when Skylake came out). Sometimes, usually after a fresh boot, I'm able to get into Windows for long enough to run a few Prime95 tests and Linpack Xtreme. My computer powered through everything and it seemed as though nothing was wrong. I restarted my computer and crashed after opening a program and being on my desktop for 3 seconds. It's random, it can happen quickly, sometimes it just doesn't even seem as though ANYTHING is wrong. I suspect it may be my motherboard, but I don't have another CPU to test it with. If you could let me know what you think, or what my next course of action should be, I'd appreciate it. I'm also open to trying any suggestions. Thanks!


Speccy: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/oVQWq2u1rw0BbJaDGLadlse


Sysnative report: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fXSu8K2pKwWKEOGLSiPBLP_yMEK4uJ89/view?usp=sharingDid you re-use the old RAM ? ?...Speccy does not even report a model #
Down further in the Speccy report the memory is reported as

G.Skill F4-3200C16-4GVKB

The memory doesn't show up in any of the QLV tables for the motherboard I din't dig deep enuff... Quote from: patio on February 02, 2021, 08:59:23 AM

Did you re-use the old RAM ? ?...Speccy does not even report a model #

I have a Dell Optiplex 780 that I bought used SEVERAL years ago. It has been a good computer as all I basically do is surf the web. However, when I surf the web now, it seems like almost everyday the computer freezes saying that my web browser is not responding. I try to wait it out but sometimes I just have to manually turn off my pc and then turn it back on. Then it usually does fine for a good while before doing the same thing again. Should I buy myself another good used pc or is there something I can do to lessen the occurrence of this happening?
Thank you!Have you tried a different browser?Yes. Same problem!
1) Please boot to safe mode with networking enabled and see if the same things happens

2) Please run full scans with both your AV and with MalwareBytes.I am such a novice that it's like you're speaking Japanese!
Thank you anyway. I'm sorry to be so dumb!Okay, let's do it in reverse order. Run a full scan with your anti virus app.



I do not have an AV!
Thanks!Hi
Just to take an overview for the running Processes on your SIDE, i come with this batch FILE for you !
Just copy and paste this piece of code on your Notepad or Notepad++ and save it as Get_Running_Processes.bat.

The Batch script will generate a text file named as Get_Running_Processes.txt
Just copy and paste its contents in your next reply ! or join it as attachment !

Get_Running_Processes.bat
Code: [Select]@echo off & Mode 78,5 & color 0B
Title Get Running Processes With ADMIN Rights by Hackoo 2021
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
:: Automatically check & get admin rights
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
REM --> Check for permissions
Reg query "HKU\S-1-5-19\Environment" >nul 2>&1
REM --> If error flag set, we do not have admin.
if '%errorlevel%' NEQ '0' (
Echo.
ECHO ***************************************
ECHO Running Admin shell... Please wait...
ECHO ***************************************
goto UACPrompt
) else ( goto gotAdmin )
:UACPrompt
echo Set UAC = CreateObject^("Shell.Application"^) > "%temp%\getadmin.vbs"
set params = %*:"=""
echo UAC.ShellExecute "cmd.exe", "/c ""%~s0"" %params%", "", "runas", 1 >> "%temp%\getadmin.vbs"
"%temp%\getadmin.vbs"
del "%temp%\getadmin.vbs"
exit /B
:gotAdmin
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
::START
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Set "LogFile=%~dpn0.txt"
If Exist "%LogFile%" Del "%LogFile%"

Set WMIC_CMD=WMIC PROCESS Where "Commandline!=null" get Handle,Name,Commandline /format:csv ^
| findstr /v /r /c:"^$" /c:"^Node" ^
| findstr /I /V "Node" ^
| findstr /I /V "null" ^
| findstr /I /V "%%WMIC_CMD%%"

>"%LogFile%" (
echo/--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
echo [PID] - [Name] - [CommandLine]
echo/--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
@for /F "tokens=2,3,4 delims=," %%a in ('"%%WMIC_CMD%%"') do (echo [%%b] - [%%c] - [%%a])
echo/--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
)
If Exist "%LogFile%" Start "" "%LogFile%" & Exit
Hackoo, I have a gut feeling the OP won't understand your request. I suspect that because of the post about not understanding the request that Allan made.

But I am actually posting because I am wondering why nobody has asked what browsers the OP has used. The primary one and then the one that was stated to be next used. Maybe I am missing that information, so if I am I'll apologize.

As for the mention of getting a another computer because of this; that is way, way too early to even be giving thought to.

As for the point about the AV, you can download a one-time scan tool, but probably Allan will address that himself.

EDIT: Okey-dokey, I checked and maybe see something useful here:

Other / Computer or Browser is Slow
« on: December 08, 2017, 11:07:16 AM

You wrote something about Firefox, but is that still the browser of choice?

I also saw you have 4GB RAM and that was a question I might have asked after Allan offered advice on how to do that scan he wants you to do.Quote from: breadcrumb on February 16, 2021, 09:58:48 PM

I do not have an AV!
Thanks!

Alienware Laptops, WINDOWS 10. Kaspersky AV. PowerDesk.

Copying folders and files via USB to memory (USB Stick or SD CARD via USB adaptor as laptop has no SD slot) is erratic.

This across TWO laptops, with differing versions of PowerDesk.

Occurs using PowerDesk or Windows Explorer. Same if via Copy/Paste or Drag and Drop.

Copy process runs without errors and takes the appropriate amount of time. At end Properties reports the memory used of the transferred FILE SET.

Root folders of copy set are copied across. Some show files, not all. Some of these root folders show SUB folders, some of which show files, but not all. WHICH files copy to where seems consistent.

Too many differing sticks and/or cards tried to be them I think. This occurs even to SD cards previously used faultlessly. Seems worse on the higher capacity cards/sticks.

Any ideas please?

My 250gb SSD was running out of space , so I purchased a 500Gb SSD. I connected it up and ran Macruim reflect I selected the correct option for resizing to a larger disc size, it cloned the new 500GB as a 250GB. As you can see from the picture attachment my main drive is E and my boot is drive C. I cannot change the drive letter of C to any other drive letter as it states that the drive is needed to boot. It seems to me the boot is on drive C and everything else is on drive E. If I try to clone E to C and start all over again it asked if I want to proceed as windows PE, if I click on this, then after the next dialogue box it states that it cannot start from PE. Where do I go from here?Depends on how you want the new drive...if you want the full 500G i would re-do the clone as is...you can then allocate and merge the rest of the drive into 1 drive...
Also it appears you still have both HDD's attached...can you clarify this ?Hi
You will need to be running Macruim reflect from a CD or pen drive to do this...
First I would clone the first partition of your Drive 1 to somewhere like a pen drive. You will loose all the data on the pen drive. Drive 1 is your 250GB SSD.

Then clone back the first partition of Drive 0 the 500GB SSD this is the boot partition from the original 250 gb drive.

Disconnect the 500 GB SSD and check the 250 GB drive is BOOTING and loading windows if it does then you are back at the beginning before you STARTED copying the drive. If not then you will need to do a windows repair install.

Now reconnect the 500gb to the sata cable you were using for the 250 above this will make the 500 drive 1

Connect your 250 GB SSD as Drive 0.

Start Macruim reflect Now tick the box to the left of the 250GB selecting to copy the whole drive in the options you can select RESIZE or do the resize after the copy. Good idea to check the 500GB boots before doing the resize. if it boots ok then job done.

Hello

What is the best way, please, of CONNECTION my two desktops - one XP and the other Win 10 - to one another. They are both wireless and are physically about 3-feet apart.

Thanks!Hello
Hope this guide will help you https://helpdeskgeek.com/windows-xp-tips/share-files-between-windows-xp-and-windows-7-8-10/#:~:text=Configure%20Workgroup&text=In%20Windows%207%2F8%2F10,same%20workgroup%20as%20those%20computers.Many thanks, MR Patton

It looks promising!

Best regards

Is there a SIMPLE WAY to FIX this PROBLEM?

In Control Panel\User Accounts\User Accounts it shows only one account. It shows my name, "Renny Bosch", and my email address, which STARTS with "rbosch". File Explorer under Users shows a folder named rbosc. But when I enter %userprofile% in the Location BAR, it displays "Renny Bosch" and shows content that LOOKS like a normal user file. Further, when I try to find the parent location where this file is located (by clicking the ^ symbol at the left of the Location bar) it shows the parent to be a folder named Desktop, which in turn has no parent.

Does this indicate an error somewhere or is this EXPLAINABLE?

My Laptop has been stuck on the “Get even more out of Windows screen” for about an hour now, i’ve TRIED clicking “skip for now” & even the other option just to get off of the screen but the options just become greyed out & nothing happens beyond that. I’ve also tried shutting down with the power button, & using control ALT delete to restart, though nothing seems to work or help. I tried to answer this question a bit ago and the answer that was clearly posted disappeared and I had asked a moderator via the PM system what happened, but many hours later I see no response.

And I am not so sure about the inserting of the image GRAB I always do when I post on a forum on the Net, so let me TRY and see what I can do to re-post my answer.

You have to TURN off, or uncheck, some notifications that read something like "Show me something ..." and "Suggest something" --- depending on what version of Windows 10 you have determines if it is a turning off mechanism or an uncheck style.

And getting to those is going through Start > Settings > System > Notifications. Actually the "Notifications" heading may look a bit different depending what version you are using, but I am not presently in a position to turn on my Windows 10 unit at this time and so please get back to this thread if some bit of these attempted instructions are not clear.

Frankly, my mental state isn't so great because of this being a second attempt at answering this question and no response to the attempt for some explanation.Try this.
1.Open the Settings app.
2. Navigate to System > Notifications & actions.
3. On the right, turn off (uncheck) the option Suggest ways I can finish setting up my device to get the most out of Windows.
4. Now you can close the Settings app.

This issue HAPPENED a week ago. I was running Windows 10 (For a few weeks) and last week my MSI GT72 2QE Dominator Pro G wouldn't turn off and the screen was black. So I hold down the power button and it turns off. I press the power button again to turn it back on and it STARTS up like normal, but it stays on the splash screen and the dots just go around in circles. I tried to turn it off and on again and it still never GOT past that splash screen. I did a clean install of windows 10 on it using a USB key after to just see if it was some issue with my version of the OS and it'd install and I logged in for the first time and it was fine. Then I hit shutdown and it says shutting down and then the screen goes black, but the LED INDICATOR light for power is still on. So I have to FORCE shut down again. I turn it back on and it does the same thing where it goes to the splash screen, dots go in circles. So I hit F3 after restarting it again to get into recovery options and I do a factory reset on that sucker. It boots 8.1 fine, I log in, I am able to shut it down correctly, it boots back into 8.1 correctly. So I upgrade to Windows 10 once more and it boots into 10. I shut it down, same issue. It seems to only be when Windows 10 is on it now and I really hate 8 and don't want to have to go back to it. So what do you believe the issue is?

Thanks, Nick.Is this happening only when idle for a period of time or when your actually using it?

If its only happening when idle then it could be a power management option that needs to be set to tell the system not to shutdown, not to hibernate or sleep etc.It happened when I tried to shut it down. It will never boot up so I had to reset it to Windows 8.Any help? :CSorry for no additional info and quite some time passed.

Unfortunately your issue sounds to be Windows 10 related, but if its a build issue others should have also reported issues with 10 on that laptop as well and the google search doesnt show any hits.

Hardware issue unlikely since its healthy on 8/8.1

This is one of those situations where there is no good direction to go in, but a direction needs to happen to hopefully get to a cure for this.

The Windows 10 on thumb drive... where did this come from? Is there a reason why the upgrade isnt happening from Windows 8 downloading the upgrade and then selecting to switch to 10 in which the upgrade just happens at the HDD and no external devices are used?

My computer has been freezing and MAKING a buzzing noise through my headphones for a good time now.I've tried scanning for malaware and viruses, and no luck,my computer is still freezing in some games.Can some ONE please HELP me for once,i've been posting everywhere and no one helped me YET.Sound in the headphone?
I would almost bet that it has to be power related.
You need to find a friend who is an old-school tech who can identify power supply hum and noise levels. The is often done with an analog oscilloscope.

Failing components, especially capacitors can cause this. Some techs might have the stuff needed to test capacitors in-circuit. But seldom found in a hobby workshop.

Here is a You Tube video that explains the CONCEPT of in-circuit testing. But I do not know if the information is applicable to computers. It is NOT easy. You can do a lot of damage. Yet there are some techs out thee that can do it.

But it is a lot easier to just swap the PSU.

Was the fact that I had driver issues just DUE to the age of the machine or the windows COPY I installed? It wasn't a bang up to date DOWNLOAD of windows 7.