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I have a windows 10 (64bit) machine (authentificated) with a ssd drive as boot drive. I am considering buying a XEON based computer also with authentificated windows 10. If I moved my ssd drive into this NEW machine am I likely to get an authentifcation ERROR?It will require you to authenticate your key with them if it doesnt boot loop BSOD on you. Any major and sometimes minimal hardware changes will break the activation and require for it to be reactivated/authenticated again. Since you have a authentic windows 10 key or key based off the upgrade you should be all set.

I have only seen on very similar computer hardware builds where you can move a drive and have it not break the activation. But drastic hardware CHANGE is definitely GOING to break its activation.

Programs like EXCEL and WORD allow more than one instance to be open on the DESKTOP simultaneously; is there a structural REASON why a chat PROGRAM could not have a separate instance open for different contacts ?

I used to be able to select an inappropriate prompt and press DELETE to be rid of it, but that no LONGER WORKS. For many WEBSITES the prompt is correct, but for Facebook (and possibly others) I GET 'busy ?' appended to the 'com' of the email ADDRESS.

Hello all,

My mate Alex has an FTP server setup at his house. It is all set up how it should be, however I cannot connect using either the private or public IP. The server is set up in IIS, and Alex LIVES about 200 miles away from me so there is no WAY to be ABLE to go down to his and my only form of COMMUNICATION is via the phone.

I've tried in CMD, file explorer, chrome and iexplore but have had no luck.

Every time I try and connect.

Any help?

Hello, could you interpret these tests for me I have attached? I live in the Philippines and computer are very slow under the best conditions. I think the companies have sold more band width than they can handle so everyone is slow. When we complain and the company comes out and does the check by some MIRACLE the speed is fast. But when I  do the test it comes out very very slow, ATLEAST I think it is slow and the perfirmance of my pc shows that. The other provider I use is Smart Bro but it is even slower. I tried to reset the data packet size but as you can see from the google ping test it was a 100% loss so there was nothing to adjust.
I am stuck with the service providers, I can do nothing about that but is there anything ELSE I can do to increase my speed?
Thanks, Hopeless.
ps. I cannot get the speed test for Globe or Smart Bro to upload so I will just record the infor here:
  Globe: Ping 421 ms  Download 5.61 mbps upload 0.67 Mpbs
  SmartBro: Ping 211 ms  Download 2.07 Mpbs  Upload 1.65Hi Dave,

You said that you have 2 internet service providers Globe and smart Bro. Smart Bro seems to be a 5G wireless provider which should be very fast. The things which effect the speed are distance from the cell tower and if the modem has clear line of site to the cell tower. If there are overhead power lines,  metal structures or tall builds all will have an effect on speed.

Is the Globe connection wireless or Fibre ?
If fiber it should be a lot faster then you are getting
Both are wifi and we are within 1/4 mile of each tower. We used to have very fast service to begin with but over time it has slowed down considerably. I can only think that more subscribers mean less band width for everyone else. So, there is nothing I can do with my setup to make it faster?Regardless your getting squat for speed on either...what are you paying for width wise ? ?
Well that's the thing, I live in the Philippines. A few years ago the government deregulated the industry and provides no oversight in the matter. This is a country rife with corruption so the consumer is left out of the equation all together. You either pay the 1,000 pesos a month for what little service they provide or you get no service at all. They do not tell you the level or amount of bandwidth you will get. They just say it is fast broadband. At the BEGINNING it is fast but over time as they sell more band width to more and more people the service gets less and less. I was just wondering if there isn't something I can do  on my end to optimize what little service I do have. Like I said I tried to optimize my digital packet size but as can be seen in the attachment I am at a 100% loss as it stands. I really don't think there is anything I can do but I just though I would take a long SHOT and ask. ThanksThere is absolutely nothing you can do on your end to improve it...

Just tried to clear browsing data from Win Edge for the first time. Got a message saying all data COULD not be cleared and to TRY again. Tried again and again but still got same message. How can I DETERMINE what data  isn't clearing? Also, how can I tell if this is a privacy/security issue? Thanks.
Solved.  I cleared IE first which "permitted" Edge to GIVE me the all clear message.

My Mom upgraded to Windows 10 already. Since she did, none of the taskbar BUTTONS open anything. Any attempt to open Edge, Store, Files, etc, just ends up doing nothing. The busy cursor appears over taskbar, but nothing EVER opens. Sometimes I can get it to let me right click the taskbar for menu, but choosing anything on the menu does nothing. Cannot maneuver around the computer to even find anything to try any fixes because nothing will open. What icon shortcuts she has on her desktop will work as far as opening, but I get constant errors if I try to do anything within them. For instance, FireFox or Chrome will open, but if you try to navigate to a page it gives you an error. Cannot LOCATE windows update to see if there are any patches put out yet. Basically the computer is unusable other than the couple of games that she has icons on her desktop for (no major gaming, just local card games type stuff). Task Manager opens a WINDOW, but never loads and stops responding. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

I am thinking of reviewing my firewall and antivirus (AV) protection on my desktop PC.  I would like to find a solution that keeps up with the ever-changing world of malware and one which is not too demanding on CPU resources (as the current demand on resources is distorting my audio output.)

Currently, I am running ZONE Alarm (ZA) Extreme Security Antivirus and I have Windows Defender turned off.  Generally, but not exclusively, I have found that reviews of Windows Defender say that it's better to have it than no firewall/AV at all, which is not the best of endorsements. One of the criticisms is that Microsoft does not UPDATE it sufficiently frequently so some malware can sneak past, whilst waiting for an update.

My current setup with ZA seems to be more resource-heavy than I can afford with my aging machine. I will have to decide on whether to renew its license soon.

Some reviews say the only really safe ground is that provided by the big guys such as Norton and McAfee and they certainly get good write-ups.  But I guess you can't have your cake and EAT it.  They are going to be quite resource-demanding.

I have worked on the principle that it is not a good idea to have more than one firewall/AV system running.

So what I would appreciate some views on, please is:

• Is it safe to just rely on Windows Defender?
  Can I use settings in the tried and TRUSTED software to get a "light" YET safe version?
  What have people used and with what success or failure?
  Have others had issues with audio distortion linked to resource availability?

Ok I acknowledge my stupidity -  somehow Tails GOT onto my PC [I did use a USB stick,] and I expect you peeps know what ensued,  chastise me - I deserve it.  But in the long long run  - PLEASE SAVE MY SANITY & COMP,  beggingly PLEASE. 
I HAVE FAITH IN YOU!  No idea what you are TALKING about or asking.? ? ? Quote from: Allan on April 04, 2022, 07:25:36 AM

No idea what you are talking about or asking.

I am working on a bat file to change important windows settings for me so that i dont have to MANUALLY do it.
Next time when reinstalling windows i want to execute a single bat-file that will handle things for me.
Probably i will still have to change a few settings manually but it should be reduced to a minimum.

I want to learn how to change the following settings via bat/cmd

• Taking Ownership or full-control-permissions of C:\Drive (already have a bat-file for that)
• Change DNS server                                                           (already have a bat-file for that)
• delete and disable preinstalled-bloatware                          (already have a bat-file for that)
• disable all unnecessary services                                       (already have a bat-file for that)
• disable telemtry and other shady features                         (O&Oshutup10 will do that for me)
• File Explorer, change fast-access to This PC
• Remove the checkmark from this setting: hide files and file extensions for known file types
• Use the maximum cursor-blink-rate for mouse and keyboard
• Import a Firewall Rule via command
• Under Powerplan Settings disable hybernate, and set screen-timeout to 15 minutes
• Under msconfig enable all cpu cores for boot/power-on
• disable locking function that appears when pressing shift 5 times in a short amount of time
• optimise hard drive once when executing this bat-file
• create a desktop shortcut for C:\Users\User\AppData and C:\Users\User\AppData\Local\Temp
• Under Optionalfeatures disable internet explorer 11
• Under Optionalfeatures enable netframework 3.5 and directplay+legacy components
• import specific registry keys including sub-keys and dword32bitvalue or create them if needed

Thanks for helping!Update:

• enable msconfig-all-cpu-cores on SYSTEM boot
• export/import nvidia controlpanel settings  or registry
• create a desktop shortcut for C:\Users\User\AppData
• disable automatic updates from SystemPropertiesComputerName.exe > Hardware
• disable remote access SystemPropertiesComputerName.exe > Remote
• if not, how can i import/export registry keys including sub-keys and dword32bit-value?
• import-export specific task-scheduler-tasks
• for example: Task-Scheduler > Microsoft > Windows > deactivate ALL triggers for Application Experience
• import-export, group policy editor > administrative templates > windows components > deactivate Biometry, DatacolletionIf you are working with the same build, why not just set the registry up as you want and make a backup copy of the registry and after a new clean build copy over the backed up registry stomping out the default. Then the batch stuff can be just  forcing the registry overwrite and then copying of shortcuts etc.• Since i can't edit the original post i will just UPDATE here.

• disable telemtry and other ridiculous features (O&Oshutup10 will do that for me)
• delete and disable preinstalled-bloatware (already have a bat-file for that)
• disable all tasks regarding telemtry (already have a bat-file for that)
• disable all unnecessary services (already have a bat-file for that)
• Taking Ownership of C:\Drive (already have a bat-file for that)
• Import-Export registry keys (already have a bat-file for that)
• Change DNS server (already have a bat-file for that)
• Import a Firewall Rule (already have a bat-file for that)
• Import-Export powerplan-settings
• Under Optionalfeatures enable netframework 3.5 and directplay + legacy components
• Under Optionalfeatures disable internet explorer 11
• And a few more "Uncathegorized" Settings



• Update



➤ Having problems with exporting reg keys:
reg export HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Image File Execution Options Image File Execution Options.reg
reg export HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Multimedia\SystemProfile SystemProfile.reg
Error Invalid Syntax



➤ When i edit the below settings, is there a reg-key that will change it's value at the same time?
➤ In that case i can export the reg-keys. If not, is there a cmd-command to turn them on or off?
SystemProperties (SystemPropertiesComputerName.exe)
  > Hardware > Device Settings > Device Installation Settings > Automatic Updates > Off
  > Remote > Allow remote support on this computer > Off



➤ The below command adds a defender EXCLUSION but it must be executed with powershell, is there an alternative for cmd?
powershell -Command Add-MpPreference -ExclusionPath "D:\"




➤ How can i change the blow settings with cmd-command without any manual-user-interaction? Is there a command?
  > Press shift 5 times in a short period of time - Disable locking function

  > File explorer
  > Change fast access to this PC
  > Select view
  > Enable hide files and file extensions for known file types



➤ How can i change the blow settings with cmd-command without any manual-user-interaction? Is there a command?
  > Windows Optional-Features
  > Enable Netframework 3.5
  > Enable Directplay + Legacy Components
  > Disable Internet Explorer 11
For example i already found a working command on how to disable internet-explorer-11
Disable-WindowsOptionalFeature -FeatureName Internet-Explorer-Optional-amd64 –Online
Can anyone please share the command to enable netframework 3.5 and directplay including the sub-option legacy components?



➤ How can i change the blow settings with cmd-command without any manual-user-interaction? Is there a command?
  > Windows Explorer
  > Rightklick on Network
  > Properties
  > Advanced SHARING settings
  > Disable Network Discovery for Guest and Privat Profile

  > Windows Explorer
  > Rightklick on Network
  > Properties
  > Edit ADAPTER Settings
  > Rightklick on Ethernet
  > Properties
  > Remove all checkmarks expect IPv4Wgat are you using for editing/nackup of registry keys ? ?

I would suggest Erunt.

By USING the COMMAND below i managed to change the DNS server to cloudflare.
INTERFACE ip set dns "Ethernet" static 1.1.1.1

How can i changed not only the primary but the alternate DNS Server to 1.0.0.1
What is the command?UPDATE:
Booth these commands appear to be WORKING perfectly.

netsh interface ip add dnsservers "Ethernet" address=1.0.0.1 index=1
netsh interface ip add dnsservers "Ethernet" address=1.1.1.1 index=1

netsh interface ipv4 add dnsservers "Ethernet" address=1.1.1.1
netsh interface ipv4 add dnsservers "Ethernet" address=1.0.0.1

I want to give my user-account the ownership-permissions for a directory.
Found two commands both working, what exactly is the difference?
Any pro and cons?
takeown /r /F "C:\Program Files"
icacls "C:\Program Files" /setowner "User" /tTo my KNOWLEDGE, the main difference between takeown and icacls (Integrity Control Access Control LiSt) is that icacls is a more general administration tool that among other things can be used by an administrator to grant ownership of a file or directory to a specified user. Whereas takeown is a more specialized utility that does only that one specific thing, specifically for the user running the command.

Both must be run by an administrator, and both commands shuld do the same thing if "User" is your username. The /t option for icacls is equivalent to the /r option for takeown (recursively grant ownership in subdirectories).

So both commands with those options should be basically the same.Thanks for the help.
I TOUGHT so,  /t option for icacls is equivalent to /r option for takeown.
That's why im confused which command i should use and what will be the difference after all?

Now i used both commands and monitored the terminal, booth seems to be taking ownership just fine but i noticed one option took LONGER than the other and also the commands visible in the terminal did LOOK different from the other.Update:

icacls and takeown are pretty much the same, the only difference i noticed is that takeown needs more time to take ownership than icacls does.

Here to command that works perfectly for me:

icacls "C:\Program Files (x86)" /grant user:F administrators:F /t
icacls "C:\Program Files" /grant user:F administrators:F /t
icacls "C:\Windows" /grant user:F administrators:F /t
pause

I want to back up my computer on a  2 tb USB. I also want to include my ext hard drive on the back-up. How can I do this?  Also, can I use this back-up to reboot my pc should it go down?
ThanksYou MEAN complete backup like image backup? I would suggest many free software as EASEUS, cobian, aomei (https://www.lifewire.com/free-backup-software-tools-2617964)
why would you backup external drive? it's allready on "backup" location. Next step is cloud based backup. And, yes, with most of previosly MENTIONED programs you can restore "image" of your system. Which you can daily backup in INCREMENTAL backups.
I recommend that you backup only important things like pictures, documents etc. Anything else is mostly WASTE of time on external drive. But, it's your choice, of courseThe partitions should be seperate images...

I have two laptops that are signed into using two different Microsoft ACCOUNTS (necessitated to solve another PROBLEM). Is there any way to synchronize the Edge favorites between them or do I have to do it the hard way?Go to computer 1  m Open MS Edge :
1. Select the profile image  in the BROWSER taskbar.

2. Select Manage profile settings > Sync > Turn on sync. If you see an option to sign in, continue to the next step. Note: If you see Manage profile settings, you're already signed in.

3. Select Sign in and choose an ACCOUNT or enter your account details. Select Continue.

4. Select Sync when you're asked if you want to sync your account. This syncs your favorites, passwords, and other browsing data across the devices you use with this account. Note: If you choose to sync favorites, any tabs you previously set aside will also be synced.

Then go to Computer 2 , open MS Edge , sign in with the account , you will find all your favorites, passwords, and other browsing data the same as Computer 1

About a month AGO my Win Defender was missing also Win updates STOPPED working also. tried all the online fix tutorials and NOTHING has worked so in desperation did a Windows repair (Win 10) and now can`t install ANY ANTIVIRUS software it is only Antivirus exe that won`t install, all other Exe software installs,and get error message (see pic)  Thanks.

https://imgur.com/4d9POGzHas your computer slowed down RECENTLY?  I had a similar problem a few years ago and it turned out to be a virus, luckily I had an old Norton Antivirus CD which scanned the computer before installing and removed the virus.  Try installing the Antivirus program in safe mode, as safe mode should stop the malware from loading.Thanks in Safe Mode did the trick...Cheers

I can no longer access the Action Center in WINDOWS 11 to see available wifi NETWORKS like I used to. If I USE Win+A, the action center will open and the wifi available wifi networks can be accessed. Before, I could click on the network icon or the sound icon and it would open. Now it won't open that WAY. Clicking on the sound icon just OPENS the volume setting for the speaker, and clicking on the network icon opens a gray block which quickly disappears. Win+A opens everything, so I know the Action Center is working. It's just accessing it that is the problem. Can anyone help?

I've been getting a RANDOM system hang when playing video games. The system will completely lock up and become unresponsive, and when it does this, often it's accompanied by a loud, screeching static that is heard through the headphones or speakers (WHATEVER audio device is plugged in.) Sometimes the audio just buzzes, and in some occasions, all connected USB DEVICES like keyboard and mouse lose power all at once.

I've run through the bucket list of SOLUTIONS I could think of, and none of them have alleviated these issues. I'm still not entirely sure if this is a software or hardware ISSUE.

If needed, I can post videos of what happens when my PC hangs.

Any help would be appreciated

PC Specs:

• Windows Version 10 Pro Version 20H2 - Build 19042.1645
  Intel i7-5820k 3.50 Ghz
  1 TB Crucial SSD
  64 GB of RAM - CT Ballistix DDR-4
  Nvidia RTX 3060
  EVGA 1300 PSU

Hi
Do I suppose to clean these two things up?
- Previous Windows Installation
- Windows Update Cleanup

Asking cause I'm not sure about these and don't want to mess my OS up in case of a worse scenario.

EDIT: couldn't attach another screenshot where the Previous Windows Installation was marked. In short: Both items are safe to cleanup/delete right away, assuming as your computer is working properly and you don’t plan on uninstalling any updates currently installed or need to revert back to an older build/version of Windows.

More information:
1. Previous Windows Installation and Windows Update Cleanup simply are old system files that are KEPT by PC in case you wish to revert to old build/version of Windows or uninstall updates (respectively).

2. Windows 10 gives ~10 days or so of time to revert back to old build after doing an upgrade; if nothing is done and you let that window of time expire, then Windows would delete the Previous Windows Installation files and not ALLOW you to go backwards anymore to SAVE you disk space. (I am not sure if Windows 10 allows you to go backwards to more than the build that EXISTED right before your upgrade was done)

3. I believe Windows doesn't delete Windows Update Cleanup automatically though (not 100% sure with that) but you manually ticking the checkbox and cleaning those files if you wish is POSSIBLE.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If paranoid, you can always do a disk image backup in case anything goes haywire but if your computer runs fine and you can do all you need to do on your pc without issues as is, then deleting those will just give you back disk drive space.

Also those files as your screenshot shows, can take up significant space on your computer. (I also see screenshot indicates an whopping 46.4GB you can cleanup, which is for most users not a trivial amount of space!!)Actually, paranoia may be a bit harsh . I recommend imaging your disk on a regular basis. Then you can feel free to delete pretty much anything you like and you will still have a safe haven to which you can return .

About a month after updating x32Win10Pro to V21H2 (by MRU instead of Media Creator), I found there were 38 entries for my MODEM : Archer_VR1600v, in the MULTIMEDIA Devices section of Control Panel. I managed to reduce them to 1, but ALMOST everyday a new one appears - I PRESUME when the modem BOOTS up. What would cause that and how could it be prevented ?

I was a way for 3 MONTHS. When I came, my printer gave the message "offlie."
I hoping someone had a quick fix. I can't seem to get to much on googl.e

Hp envy 5052

Thank you.Hi
Are you connecting using Wireless or a USB cable ?

If wireless has there been any changes to the wireless NETWORK or was your wireless modem turned off while you were away. If so you may need to REINSTALL  the connection between the printer and your laptop.

  I am using wireless and the computer and printer were turned off for 3 months.
Hi, Have you tried restarting the modem, it worked for me.Restart all 3 devices...Modem...then PC... then printerIf the above suggestions don't work, use the printer SETUP to find your wifi connection and re-sign in.

My file explorer is not on the taskbar, can somebody HELP me to retrieve it, I am on WINDOWS 10 and USE google chrome. thanks in advance. start - run - explorer.exeThanks Allan, I now have it pinned, but what I want is to find properties on some photos. I am completely lost with what appears in the drop-down when I CLICK on it, this is where I need help.Grounded, locate the image file in Explorer, right-click it and choose Properties. You'll find a lot of INFORMATION there including the image's EXIF data.

I have an Acer Spin 5 14" laptop / tablet combo.  I have really enjoyed using it and love the touch screen.  The one-year manufacturer's warranty has expired.  For the past couple of months, the screen suddenly GOES black on me while using it.  Then, it sometimes takes a few seconds of banging the keys, hitting the POWER button, or closing the lid and re-opening it before it returns to the LOGIN screen.  I login with my fingerprint or passcode and I can continue like NOTHING ever happened.

Lately, this issue of the screen going black and returning to the login screen has been happening more and more frequently.  It also seems to be more and more difficult to get back to what I was doing. 

I called Acer support the other day and I was redirected to one of their partnering service companies in California.  The gentleman on the phone had me turn off my machine and got me to power it back up using the continuous tapping of the F1 button while powering on.  He suggested that I have a problem with my operating system.  It appears that it is a Windows issue.  He offered me 3 service warranty options that I could buy right away and obtain immediate service for my laptop / tablet.  1 year of service for $159.99 USD, 2 years of service for $239.99, or 3 years of service for $359.99.  My machine was a warranty replacement for a previous laptop.  I had to pay about $400-$500 extra as I upgraded from what my warranty was worth.  I got this machine in 2018 I believe...

Since this is an older machine and I have another newer one as well, can anyone suggest a way I could try and fix the issue I am having?  Would reinstalling Windows be worth trying?  Any suggestions?  Thanks!What you have described is not an Operating System problem.

SOUNDS like there is something wrong with the display cable inside the machine.

Quote

1 year of service for $159.99 USD, 2 years of service for $239.99, or 3 years of service for $359.99

Hi I have just started using the high contrast setting No1
this is great for web pages,  when using Exel  SPREADSHEET I cant
find any way to ALTER cell colours
I seem to be stuckwith  only  BLUE for HYPE rlinls  and yellow for
cell BOARDERS & font colours

Quote from: SOYBEAN on May 03, 2015, 09:17:34 AM

I have not found other sources to confirm what I said in my previous post about Windows Vista users, so I'm skeptical of what that article seems to be saying about Windows Vista. It might simply not be correct.

The fact that a machine is currently running Vista is irrelevant, it would be the exact same process as if it was running an even older version of Windows or nothing at all, you are doing a clean install, not an "upgrade" install.

I installed a new 1 GB SSD in an HP laptop ;ess than three months ago. A couple of times recently Windows 11 has crashed with a BSOD, and when I RESTARTED the laptop would not boot up, giving me a boot device not found error message, and refused to boot. Several attempts resulted in no luck. I finally went into the BIOS, opened the boot MANAGER, changed the UEFI boot device to an external device then changed it back to the hard drive without actually saving in between, exited the BIOS and rebooted and the MACHINE rebooted, albeit very slowly with a long HICCUP after the logon screen appeared and I entered the PIN.

This has happened a couple of times.

Is this a drive FAILURE problem or something else?

I just moved yesterday with my computer. Before moving, my computer was working perfectly FINE. Absolutely no problem, ALWAYS super fast. Now that I plugged it at my new place, when I opened my favorite game, I saw that it was super slow. Unplayable. And when I tested other games, it was the same. Too slow. And the games I tested are on multiple drives and it’s STILL super slow. When I opened my task manager, I saw that the GPU was only working at 30% when usually it works at 100%. What surprises me is that every game I tried is really slow but when I tried Blender (a free open source 3D program), everything was just fine and my GPU was working at 100%. I went to the graphics settings on windows and all my games at set to high performance and I also changed global settings in NVidia control panel for the power settings. I also tried Benchmarks and it says that my GPU is perfectly working. I don’t know what to do anymore and I would really like some help.
These are my specs:

CPU: i9-10900F
GPU: RTX 3060 12gb
Storage: 500gb NVME SSD
500gb HDD
1tb HDD
RAM: 32gbOpen the computer and check that all cards are PROPERLY seated and all cables tightly connected. It is not unusual for something to "shake loose" during TRANSPORT.

I did a fresh install of Windows 11 pro on a new 1TB SSD, everything was super fast as you would expect. For the last month the PC has started to slow down, I log in to my settings, it takes longer than it should, the taskbar at the bottom remains black for about two minutes before drawing the icons. Saved bookmarks or links take forever to open, but if you search for the site manually it open straight away. My gut reaction it that it is a virus or malware. I have AVG pro, it cannot find anything, I have also run Superantispyware, whilst it finds tracking cookies, it does not find anything nasty. Ccleaner and System mechanic do not speed anything up. I have tried the F-secure and Trendsmicro free online scanners and they find nothing. At a bit of a loss on where to go from here, any suggestions would be welcome.This doesn't sound like Malware. I'm moving this thread to another forum to see if they can help there.Well I contacted AVG and they remotely looked at the computer, removed superantispyware, restarted the computer and then did nothing, so I ended the session. I have since downloaded another anitvirus program and that also found nothing. So something is wrong with Windows, I have had a pop up window stating Smartscreen can't be reached right now, which is part of Windows defender. So I am thinking of running "scannow" to check for errors. The process I used before does not seem to work for Windows 11. so how do I run scannow?To Run the SFC /SCANNOW Command in Windows 10
Click All Apps, select Windows Systems and select Command Prompt

2. To Scan and Repair System FILES
NOTE: Scans the integrity of all protected system files and repairs the system files if needed.
A) In the elevated command prompt, type sfc /scannow and press Enter. (see screenshot below)
NOTE: This may take some time to finish.



If it finds corrupted files it will ask for the Windows 10 Media. Insert your USB stick

B) Go to step 4.

3. To Only Verify if the System Files are Corrupted
NOTE: Scans and only verifies the integrity of all proteced system files only.
A) In the elevated command prompt, type sfc /verifyonly and press Enter.

4. When the scan is complete, hopefully you will see all is ok like the screenshot below.
NOTE: If not, then you can attempt to run a System Restore using a restore point dated before the bad file occured to fix it. You may need to repeat doing a System Restore until you find a older restore point that may work.



5. When DONE, close the elevated command prompt.Just to add a note, Jokerman; even though SUPERDAVE made a REFERENCE to only Windows 10, that is the same for your Windows 11. Just adding that in case you had doubts. Actually, I think I remember it is the same for 7 through 11.Hi guys,
Ran scannow and it did find some corrupted files and replaced them, but it did not help with speeding up the PC.Boot to safe mode. Is the system fast or slow in safe mode?Please check Windows Event Viewer System and Application logs for any repeated Warning or Error level events.

It would also be worth opening Task Manager and reviewing the computers performance e.g. CPU usage.

Faulting drivers and applications can causes sustained resource drains and/or timeouts.Hi HoraceC, booted into safe mode and it booted up and switched off very quickly, the taskbar was there when I logged on, couldn't check internet links as my internet was DISABLED.

i have a pc bought from a shop. not a dell/ intel ,just run-of the- mill. it as one fan inside and one with the power unit.
and it is running very loud. i have cleaned it inside with a feather duster, and i have taken the power unit apart and cleaned that.
and it was thick with dust.(i was careful to to put it back together the same WAY) but the fan is still noisy. it is hard to tell which one it is.
i have another power unit so i switched them round but it is still doing it . can anyone suggest anything else.

frank Hi Frank

You can either disconnect the fan to test or hold the fan from turning for a minute to see which fan is noisy. Also some cases have fans in the front of the case which is not easily visible.

With fans you can't easily get to like the power supply fan, use a plastic chopstick to hold the fan from turning.

When you isolate the fan which is noisy you can either be lubricate/repaire or replace.
Thank you Lisa Maree will try that.Some PCs run their fans at full blast all the time—this is especially common if you built your own PC and haven't done any fine-tuning of the cooling hardware. If your fans are plugged into the computer's motherboard, you might be able to control them using your motherboard BIOS. You can enter the BIOS menu by pressing a key as your computer boots, usually DEL, F2, or something similar. Then, LOOK for the hardware MONITORING section (or something similar).

Every BIOS is a little different, so we can't walk you through the exact steps—some will only offer basic "high" and "LOW" fan settings, while others may provide advanced fan curves that let you set the fan speed at different CPU temperatures. Some motherboards can control all the connected fans, while others may only be able to control fans that use 4-pin PWM adapters (rather than cheaper 3-pin fan models). Play around with the fan control settings and see what works for you.

If your BIOS doesn't have any fan control options, a program like SpeedFan will work too, but again; only if your motherboard is functionally capable of controlling those fans. For graphics cards, MSI Afterburner can help you adjust the fan's behavior when you're in a heavy gaming session. peryourhealth

If you can't control the fans through software—say, if the fans are plugged directly into the power supply rather than into the motherboard—certain hardware accessories can help. Noctua makes low-noise adapters that essentially act as a resistor, reducing the voltage sent to the fan and thus reducing its speed. Hardware fan control knobs do something similar, though offer more fine-grained management. Once you get the right speed dialed in, your gaming sessions will hopefully be a bit more peaceful.That idea to block a Fan to locate which fan makes noise is good.
Find out which one(s) is/are noisy first.

Since it's a custom built computer, you can also make sure that the Fans are plugged into Fan pins on that motherboard that adjust the voltage depending on your BIOS settings.
You can give the complete model of that motherboard and tell us where each Fan in plugged. We can check the diagram of the motherboard and compare.

If it's the CPU Fan, then most likely the Heatsink is still dirty, or the Thermal paste is dry.
I'm not sure what's your level of expertise, but TAKING out the CPU Heatsink, clean the CPU and replace the Thermal paste is usually good for an aged computer.

But from personal experience, when old Fans are dusty, they will be noisy, and you'll end up replacing them in order to have a quiet desktop. Fans are not expensive, and you can have Fans for like $10 a piece.
Had a similar noise problem,the bearing in the Power supply fan was kaput!

Sorry, RAN into problems PUBLISHING post EARLIER today.
Now, could not ATTACH image to post, different layout of Manage Image area.
Not able to preview this post.

In this MODE, image appears & I'm able to view a preview???

Regards, & please reply with solution.

klxdrt

I tried to run my laptop in SAFE mode to try and remove .NEER malware.
But instead my laptop has gone into automatic recovery mode.
When it switches on it asks for the language preffered and then GIVES 2 options of troubleshoot or turn off .
I have tried multiple METHODS using command prompt of bootrec msconfig etc. None of them have worked yet .
Cant RESTORE or recover from BACKUP

I am in Seattle - Washington State.

My Windows Weather app keeps GIVING me "LOCAL" weather for Washington, DC.

(Location services are on - my IP is indeed local, and Windows MAPS app pegs my location CORRECTLY).

Anybody have any THOUGHTS as to what's going on here?

Thanks

Hi, When i use this SHORT CUT to make a QUICK system restore point, i noticed it states "system restore point" install as APPOSED to saying MANUAL". Is this ok?

I used the "PC Health Check" to see if my COMPUTER is compatible. It said it isn't. I have a ASRock A320M R4.0 motherboard. I went into the bios to check for ATM, it showed it. It was in Auto mode. I tried the Health Check again and it still says my computer is not compatible. Is there anything I can do to fix this?I would hang tight, and wait for updates to the PC health checker.. You've got at least 4 MONTHS before you need to worry about it, and in that time the requirements might change. It would make sense for Microsoft to use the tool PRIMARILY to gather information about what PC hardware is checking for support, and progressively expand the officially supported hardware in the tool as release approaches. I would be shocked if Win 11 did not support your motherboard on release.Thanks,
I figured it was a bit too early. I'm of the mind that they've majorly flubbed the requirements information.

A List of minimum requirements and supported processors was published for hardware vendors- eg, this is what Acer/Dell/etc. can use. This list is very restrictive in that it is limited to CPUs made in the last 3 years or so, which is fitting if the list is designed to limit the hardware being used for new PCs with Windows 11 preinstalled when it is released. These are published earlier because obviously those companies need that information to design their new PCs. Consumer requirements (eg minimum requirements to upgrade/install it) usually aren't finalized until closer to release.

I think somehow marketing people at MS have latched onto that hardware vendor list as dictating the not-yet-published consumer requirements, as that is what they've been repeating and what the "health check" tool is checking for. It's very confusing because the same hardware vendor requirements for Windows 10 are equally exclusive and definitely don't match the systems actually capable of running Windows 10.

My email account is with Google (Gmail) and through POP (?) I access it in THE OBSOLETE (but STILL working well) Windows Live Mail (WLM 2012). Today Google emailed me that in a month I have no choice but to go with TwoStepVerification (2SV), so I set it up immediately. Since then, WLM has not stopped asking me for my Google PASSWORD, until I cancelled the 2SV. That solves my problem for a month, but not beyond that. Does anybody know a WAY of satisfying WLM's CRAVING for a password under 2SV ? Hi
Windows live mail is now an obsolete program. You could try emclient https://www.emclient.com/download
The program supports importing settings and mail from windows live mail as well as outlook. Has the same look as Live mail.

I have a common issue with my SD card where the card is not detected if I insert it while Windows is running. If I insert the card before booting up, then the card is recognized. The card works as expected with other operating systems.

Version 20H2Hi, I hope you're doing good today.

Let's try the following and see if some of these methods work for you.

1. Try SD Card on Another Device
Sometimes it is the computer interface that breaks, rather than the SD card. In this case, just connect your SD card to another computer or Android phone. Alternatively, try another SD card to check the interface. There is no shortcut if you want to test the SD card not recognized or working on Windows 10.

2. Check SD Card in Disk Management
If your SD card doesn’t show up in Windows 10 File System, but in Disk Management, check whether there is a drive letter for the card. Follow the steps below to add a drive letter:
STEP 1. Right-click “My Computer” and select “Disk Management”.
Step 2. In Disk Management, your SD card will appear as a removable disk. Check if it has a drive letter like D or E.
Step 3. If not, right-click the SD card and select “Change Drive Letter and Paths”.
Step 4. Click “Add” and select a drive letter, then click “OK”. Your SD card would be working in the File System along with local disks.

Check SD Card in Disk Management

3. REMOVE SD Card Write Protection
There is a knowledge point that a write-protected SD card will not be displayed on other devices, except the original one. So if you did lock your SD card before, the first thing is to remove write protection from the SD card. Check the lock switch beside the card or use disk utility. It can also fix the SD card not showing up on Windows 10.

4. Reinstall/Update SD Card Driver
When you update Windows 10, it will automatically renew all device drivers. But if you still have a problem with a device, it is still well worth a try to update or reinstall the driver. Here’s how to update/reinstall the driver to repair (micro) SD card not detected on Windows 10:
Step 1. Click “Start” and enter “Device Manager”. Select it from the results.
Step 2. Find your SD card and right-click it, then select “Update Driver”.
Step 3. Select “Search automatically for updated drive software”. If there is no new driver, try to look for one on the manufacturer’s website and follow the installation wizard.
Step 4. If it doesn’t work to update the driver, just right-click the device and select “UNINSTALL”. Then restart your computer, and Windows will reinstall the driver by itself.

5. Enable SD Card Reader
Disabled SD card will not show up on Windows 10. The steps to enable this function are the same as above. First, find your SD card in “Device Manager” and right-click it. If it shows “Disable Device”, then you have already enabled the SD card reader and there is no need to do anything. If not, just select the option “Enable Device”. Then Windows 10 could detect your SD card normally.

6. RUN Hardware and Device Troubleshooter
Troubleshooter is a built-in repair tool in Windows 10. It HELPS to fix common computer problems. You can also use it to solve (micro) SD card not detected on Windows 10 problems.
Step 1. Click “Settings”> “Update & security”> “Troubleshooter”.
Step 2. Select “Hardware and Devices”, then click “Run the troubleshooter”. After detecting the problem, the troubleshooter will fix it automatically.

Regards.

Windows 11 coming soon. See here. As the saying goes: "The road to *censored* is PAVED with good intentions."As I had expected I was patently unimpressed. People kept saying that it will be vastly different from the leaked build, but I've not seen anything to suggest that so far.

1. Start Button is now centered.

This is a bad change. Fitt's Law states that accessing a particular target on screen requires two movements: one large movement to get in the vicinity, and a small movement to home in on the target. Windows XP actually took this into account as the Visual Styles for the Start menu have the hit-target area extend all the way to the edges of the screen. And Later versions of Windows followed this rule as well.

Having the start button centered means that it becomes less accessible to mouse users, particularly since it will bounce around based on how many other items are present.

Of course one can still opt to have the Start button (and other items) aligned left. But it concerns me that they would so blithely decide to violate decades of UX design research that went into DISCOVERING that "Law".

2. Start Menu is now disconnected from the Start Button. This is another UX Violation of decades-old rules. I have a Graphic design book about UX that is old enough that it uses the monochrome Mac OS for it's many examples, and one of the examples was of a poorly designed menu where the popout menu was not "connected" to the source of the menu, which was established as a rule- the source of a menu/flyout should be connected to the menu when it appears. Microsoft has decided to abandon this UX principle as well.

3. I find some facets of the new visual styles rather questionable in the same way. Most of it is fine- rounded buttons and textboxes have an unusual but not altogether invasive "highlight" line at the bottom. But scrollbars are I think bad UX. when the cursor is not over them, the arrows are completely invisible and the elevator is a thin line. When hovered over the elevator gets a little thicker and the arrows become visible. There is no reason for the arrows to ever be invisible, IMO.

Fundamentally it feels more and more that OS UX is being built by teenagers whose understand of building a User Experience centers around the crappy practices that go into designing WEB pages and "web apps"- it's all about ANIMATIONS and flash and pizazz and no thought seems to be put into the function part of things.

There is a massive deal breaker for me, actually. there is no UI-accessible taskbar setting for small icons, and you cannot turn on taskbar LABELS. I have turned those on ever since Windows 7 made the IMO ridiculous decision to have taskbar buttons only be a worthless, non-descriptive icon. If there is no way to address that I will probably be sticking with Windows 10 as my newest Windows OS on real hardware as long as possible.

I honestly found the presentation hilarious and boring at the same time. There was nothing remotely interesting displayed, but then you had Panos Panay basically getting all emotional (while reading a teleprompter...) about how windows was "coming home".Good idea too, download the small app from the site and see if your pc is (Check for compatibility) mine isn`t?

I have windows 10 version 2004 and have looked in my pictures, documents and have FOUND some but have googled on how to find all photos and videos and haven't had any luck. I'm worn down trying all the suggested methods. I thought I'd ask you guys/ladies.Checkout "Everything" is free and once get used to it will find all your pics etc. Link below can checkout before download if think will help you,good luck!

Link Removed...I downloaded it but it gives so many listings, it's like a dog chasing its tail. What should I look for?Do a search for *.jpg... That will list all pics on the PC.
Not sure of the vid extensions you USE but the *. method will work for that as well...I did the search and used the * with .jpg but it only showed a very small portion of pictures I had placed on my PC. I have all of my pictures on flash drives but they're supposed to be on my computer as well. I remember going to either pictures or documents and all were there but not there now. I guess I could TRANSFER my flash drives back to my computer?It is great that you still have them on flash drives... If you have already searched for them in the Living files, it is probably time to search in deleted files. I use a program called "File Scavenger" because it keeps the file names and folder STRUCTURE intact. However, in your case, I would just check the recycle BIN. If they are not there I would pull them back off the cards.I just finished pulling them off the flash drive earlier.

Already tried:
- Uninstalling and re-installing usb driver
- Checking the usb on other pc. Result: can be used
- Updating the usb2.0_crw
- Uncheck "allow the computer to TURN off this DEVICE to save power" SETTINGS, in the usb driver properties - power management
- Plug the usb in other PORT. Still not working
- Turn off fast boot
- DISABLING USB selective suspend feature
STILL NOT WORKING

I asked the tech to remove as just junk on the new PC making it look more efficient like WIN 7. I am thinking about splitting a HARD drive and wondering IF it would be allowable to BACKUP the system to another partition, just in caselHi
You have a great idea and yes it is easy to make a backup part (partition) on your hard drive. You will need to resize the present partition here is 3 methods explained here https://www.easeus.com/partition-master/resize-partition-windows-10.html

First step is to get the properties of the present partition i.e the space that is used. This will be the minimum size for the backup partition.

Then use todo backup from Easeus to backup the c drive and the small 200mb boot partition. You may also make a backup to an EXTERNAL pen drive or hard drive which is easy to restore should the hard drive completely fail.

If the computer has a SSD drive installed, it is better to backup to an external drive and keep as much free space as POSSIBLE on the SSD drive.
Thank you!As my brain ages, I no longer assume I can do everything on apc without checking first.In the past (before SSD's were cheap) I used Parted Magic (an amazing and free-ish tool) to move the current partition to the end of the drive and create a new one for a clean OS at the front. However now I just buy a Samsung 860 Pro or 970 Pro (depending on the computer support for NVMe) and simply set aside the old drive untouched. That way you get the benefit of a really fast computer AND keep your old OS fully intact.

PS.
I don't recommend the Samsung EVO drives as about 10 of them out of 100 died on me before I stopped using them. with Pro's, I think I have lost maybe 2 out of 500

PSS.
The Samsung Data Migration Software if you need it is amazing and free with the drive. Just note you need to fix the System Protection as it keeps pointing at the no longer present C: so you have to remove it and re-add it on the new C:Quote from: mathis.ws on October 26, 2020, 05:25:46 PM

PSS.
The Samsung Data Migration Software if you need it is amazing and free with the drive. Just note you need to fix the System Protection as it keeps pointing at the no longer present C: so you have to remove it and re-add it on the new C:

Then use todo backup from Easeus to backup the c drive and the small 200mb boot partition. You may also make a backup to an external pen drive or hard drive which is easy to restore should the hard drive completely fail.

If the computer has a SSD drive installed, it is better to backup to an external drive and keep as much free space as possible on the SSD drive.

Wife was on her W10 laptop and a message came up "critical alert" call windows support at !888 984 7576. I turned off the computer for a couple of minutes thinking the message would be GONE, not so, same message came back. Where do I go from here?It's a BS scam alert...run your PROTECTION SCANS...BTW which ones do you have ? ?Do you mean like MalwareBytes? I finally just shut it down and when I booted up again it was gone. Should I do anything further?Probably not, but if you want our Malware specialist to walk you full a complete CHECK feel free to post in our malware FORUM.

I am an authorised REPRESENTATIVE for an ELDERLY gentleman whose Gmail has stopped receiving emails forwarded from Telstra. [The forwarding was set up because Google spam/trash filters are so much better than Telstra's]. Gmail account HISTORY shows five 'alerts' saying "AUTHENTICATION error. Server returned error 'invalid user name or PASSWORD.'" The elderly gentleman is NOT involved in this error, because forwarding is automatic. I have checked and seen that his Telstra account is still receiving emails, so it's the forwarding that is at fault. Could I please have detailed steps to rectify this ? It turns out that in the Telstra webmail, the option to forward the mail to Gmail had somehow become unticked.

Hi, I lost the key for bitlock drive and my question is can I EXCHANGE the drive only to a new one so I don't have to buy a nre pc? YES sure you can. Just install a new drive and RELOAD the operating system. You can also wipe your present drive and re use it. BITLOCKER is software so is not linked as other encryption systems to hardware.

Whenever I NEED sound on my all-in-one HP PC, running under Windows 10, the volume slider shows a very low value, typically between 2 and 4. So I have to keep increasing the volume every time I need sound. I have tried Settings > System > Sound and set the volume to 22. This works until I shut the machine down. However, when I boot up the next day, sound levels have gone right down again. How do I get it to keep the default sound level to 22?When you go into Task MANAGER and Performance Tab and look at the "up time" of the computer, what does it say?

Wondering if its not saving your session and reverting to an old session vs last session. Thinking the "up time" would be an indicator of if this is what the cause is. My system even when rebooted the up-time keeps going up as the session is saved to disk for the system to be faster at boot from previous session.

Is this computer a clean build or a used computer that you purchased that may have a corporate policy setting applied the value low after reboot?

Attached is a screenshot of my system up-time which shows: ( 17 days 18 hours 41 minutes 13 seconds ) even though it has not been running for that long and has been rebooted or shut down since.
The 'up time' seems to be 4 days. I have attached what it does show.

It's a brand new computer.
Does your HP all in one have volume buttons ? if so this over rides the windows Volume setting each boot. Try increasing the volume with the volume buttons.There are no hard volume buttons. There is just a loudspeaker icon at the bottom of the screen and when you click on it, it gives a slider control for the volume. So I can adjust the volume that way. However, it's a nuisance having to adjust it every time I boot up. Is there a way of getting it to adopt a default volume?
Might be able to alter it using PowerShell and set as a Local Group Policy change.

A VERSION of Group Policy called Local Group Policy (LGPO or LocalGPO) allows Group Policy Object management without Active Directory on standalone computers


https://superuser.com/questions/984459/windows-10-registry-setting-for-volume-controlPerhaps the Boot/BIOS options of the system have an option that sets the volume at startup? It would be an odd option, granted, but I've seem strange options in the BIOS that I wouldn't expect.Dave Lembke: thanks for your reply. However, your solution seems a bit complicated for SOMEONE with only my knowledge of computing and I don't want to risk inadvertently upsetting something on my PC; so I think I'll LIVE with adjusting the volume each time sound is needed.

When I try to import seaborn the import GIVE me the below error message:
I have tried the below steps to INSTALL:

pip install seaborn
python -m pip install seaborn
!conda install seaborn
%%BASH pip install seaborn
pip3 install seaborn
conda install seaborn
sudo pip install UTILS.....and then install seaborn again
pip UNINSTALL scipy and then install scipy package again.
These are the solutions i found, I closed the iterm and started again. nothing is working.

I have a Windows 10 64 bit OPERATING system running on an Acer Aspire ES1-571 laptop. Now the problem is since the last three DAYS it has stopped going in sleep mode on its own when being left IDLE.

I have already changed the setting to put the computer to sleep on both battery and when plugged in , by going to change advanced power settings, power options, multimedia settings and when sharing media.

I also opened CMD and TYPED the comand - powercfg -devicequery wake_armed to check if anything is enabled to wake up the computer, but I got the answer "NONE".

Can you please help me with this problem. I will be waiting for the help. Thank You. I solved my problem of my Windows 10 laptop not being able to sleep on its own. I did the following thing -

1) I went in "safe mode".

2) Opened "Run" by right clicking on Windows logo then typed "regedit" to OPEN the "registry".

3) In registry I went to - Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run - You should be deleating file "tappi.loc" but I did not have it. All I had was "Realtek audio" and "SecurityHealthSystray.exe" files.

2)In registory I went to - Computer\HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run and check for the file - "DAEMON Tools Lite" but do not delete it. But I did not have this eather. All I had was "OpenDNS Updater" file here.

3) I then open "Edit" drop down menu on the top and go to "Find" then type %temp% and then delete everything in the "Temporary Files" folder.

That is it. This solved my problem. My laptop can now finally go to sleep automatically. . You can also watch the whole YouTube video to solve this simelar problem here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6lbosIEqJc&t=114s



The 4th step is to "restart" you computer and is very important to solve this problem.

I also suggest after you have finished following the above steps you restore your computer to a previous point in time with a "restore point" to a time you feel everything was working properly.

I am wondering if there is a way to copy files while they are in use by users . We are trying to copy the users' homefolders to Windows server 2019 using robocopy.
Note: our source is (windows 10)Why not do this at the end of the day when users are logged off and resource that is in use no longer in use?

If you have Shadow Copy active it should fix this issue as well as it can copy files in use.

Employees should be saving data to a data location that is server side vs local systems. Only exception would be laptop users who work offline and need to reconnect with the corporate NETWORK and then update their data with the server location.

https://www.osradar.com/how-to-enable-shadow-copies-in-windows-server-2019-2016/copying the folders in use is a business needs , it is not just one user , it is near 100 users (opened files) or more , so I am searching for a way to do this !!
Is Shadow Copy paid or free ?You can accomplish this using One Drive, Dropbox, or any other file syncing tool (just make sure not to use shared accounts unless it is for the same user)

Almost every environment I am aware of has either Office 365 home or a flavor of Office 365 Business. If this is the case, use your 1TB of One Drive storage to get the job done.

All you need to do is open One Drive, connect to the user's account (you can let the wizard set up the Desktop, Documents, and Pictures if you want).

Ether way in the Onedrive you need to make these folders (Desktop, Documents, Music, Pictures, Videos, Favorites)

Then go to C:\Users\"USERNAME"\ and right-click on each of the home folders that are mapped there (you will notice they have the fancy graphic ICON if it is mapped)
- Select Properties -> Location -> Move -> Select the matching folder inside the One Drive -> Click the Ok(s)

Once you click Ok make sure the last dialog sowed that you are not mapping to the wrong place (this can be messy lol)

Ta-Da all your users are BACKED up live as they work

Oh, and if you have a user with more than one computer you use the same account for both, and the computers will stay in sync with each other.

Thanks,

MikeSorry got sucked into other projects, when you are late in replying to me, I did a SEARCH for similar requests and I found GsRichcopy360 on the Spiceworks forums, I am OK now No problem, this method is not super quick to set up (so I am sure that would be a better step one) but it does serve people very well when is done :-)

How do I keep my desktop icons from moving around

I would appreciate any help
Thank youJust right-click on the desktop and chose how you want to arrange them.You need to switch-off auto arrange to keep the icons still on the screen.If you use Remote Desktop to access your COMPUTER with a monitor USING a different RESOLUTION, you will want to use auto arrange and set it in a way that makes sense to you or it can MAKE a mess each time you switch.

Thanks,

Mike

I'm having trouble with my laptop running slow. I have an Aspire E 15 with Windows 10. I have Malwarebytes and AVG installed. I'm not completely computer illiterate, but i'm not all that bright, i guess. Anyway, i know why my internet is slow, and i can deal with that (i live way out in the country) but my laptop is very slow to respond most of the time, if at all. There are times for instance, that i push ctrl/alt/delete 2 or 3 times for the page to come up where i can click on task manager. Same with trying to start weatherbug or itunes, just to mention a couple. Sometimes i have trouble closing programs too. I'm seriously thinking about doing a system restore (? the one that takes it back to factory settings) because i'm getting so frustrated. If i do indeed decide to do that, should i save files and photos to a flash drive so i don't lose everything? Thanking all in advance for any help you can offer, and for bearing with my lack of knowledge.
just a side note: i was concerned about privacy and found an article by microsoft or possibly firefox(?). It had links to install certain programs so i have CookieAutoDelete, Privacy BADGER, HTTPS Everywhere and Ghostery installed as well.
Just a side note, i have clicked on PREVIEW twice and its not responding to that. I'll try clicking on Post and see what it does.
The quickest way to give the helpers here all the information they may need is to run speccy from here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
After you run it select file , publish snapshot. you you recieve a url link to the report please copy that url here for review.

If this is the model E15 I see specs on the internet for it shouldn't be running this slow. AVG is a resource hog and should be uninstalled. Windows Defender which comes with Windows 10 is adequate.+ + 1...Lisa, is this what you were looking for? http://speccy.piriform.com/results/EUXtpfXStq3tU0VCfSsHhh3What the others said about AVG. The more pressing problem is the warning on the Hard drive. The sector re allocation count is to high and there has been several times the laptop has been moved to activate the g force sensor. With the amount of data on the hard drive I would suggest getting a crucial 256GB SSD drive. You may need to take it to a tech to have it fitted. Here is a video on how to change the hard drive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqRXHRyrrF4Quote from: vickster on May 10, 2021, 08:26:52 AM

I'm having trouble with my laptop running slow. I have an Aspire E 15 with Windows 10. I have Malwarebytes and AVG installed. I'm not completely computer illiterate, but i'm not all that bright, i guess. Anyway, i know why my internet is slow, and i can deal with that (i live way out in the country) but my laptop is very slow to respond most of the time, if at all. There are times for instance, that i push ctrl/alt/delete 2 or 3 times for the page to come up where i can click on task manager. Same with trying to start weatherbug or itunes, just to mention a couple. Sometimes i have trouble closing programs too. I'm seriously thinking about doing a system restore (? the one that takes it back to factory settings) because i'm getting so frustrated. If i do indeed decide to do that, should i save files and photos to a flash drive so i don't lose everything? Thanking all in advance for any help you can offer, and for bearing with my lack of knowledge.
just a side note: i was concerned about privacy and found an article by microsoft or possibly firefox(?). It had links to install certain programs so i have CookieAutoDelete, Privacy Badger, HTTPS Everywhere and Ghostery installed as well.
Just a side note, i have clicked on Preview twice and its not responding to that. I'll try clicking on Post and see what it does.