Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Dave's theory is that the HDD could be corrupting pagefile contents, which go into memory and cause these issues.

I'm not convinced that is plausible, though.

1. all the failures are in dxgmms2.sys, and it seems very unlikely for arbitrary HDD corruption to cause that.

2. Disk Drives have error correction. If the data they read is corrupted, they won't actually send it as the result of I/O and will retry the operation. if they can't read the data without the ECC triggering they will eventually fail the read operation- At which point, I expect, there would be a BSOD surrounding the virtual memory manager.

Given your new information I think your assessment regarding the power supply could be correct. Removing drives would reduce the load on the power supply, and Graphics cards are the greatest consumer of Power in many modern systems. It could be the PSU just can't handle the system when under load and the Graphics card is the component that has trouble as a result.

(You don't mention what the current power supply is, by the way )

Hello all I have Hp Pavilion X360 LAPTOP, last night I update my windows 10. when windows update is COMPLETED, and restart my PC I pressed the windows key from the laptop keyboard. firstly I THINK this may be the windows error, I restart my Pc again and again, but my problem is not solved, can anyone help me to out this? Waiting for Your Help and Suggestions!
Thank You.Your laptop was supplied with a 120 gb Hard drive as the laptop is still quite new and the drive is electronic it is most likely the drive is full. If you try powering up the laptop holding the F12 key it should start to the safe mode menu. Then you can select command prompt. Then run DIR enter to check the used space and free space on the drive. If there is kb free windows won't be able to complete starting up.

You will need a bigger SSD drive, here is a video of how to change the drive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iR4wUmTjQI

if it isn't a HDD short of space then you could roll back the latest update. Copied this from https://sourcedaddy.com/windows-10/roll-back-updates.html

To use the Go Back To Previous Windows version in Advanced Startup, use these steps.

Boot to advanced startup options.( You can do this by powering down and up the laptop 4 times without loading windows then it will go into the recovery mode)
In the Choose An Option dialog box, click Troubleshoot.
On the Troubleshoot page, click Advanced Options.
On the Advanced Options page, if you don't SEE Go Back To The Previous Build, click See More Recovery Options if displayed.
Click Go Back To The Previous Build.
On the Go Back To The Previous Build page, select an administrator account and enter the password for this administrator account.
Click Continue.
On the Go Back To The Previous Build page, click Go Back To Previous.
Your computer restarts, and the EARLIER build of Windows now starts restoring.Thanks for the reply and sorry for the last response, I found the solution here: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-start-winpc/windows-10-start-button-not-working/765f193c-4c67-4b85-81e0-645dfd29836c official site of the Microsoft and https://techsherlock.com/windows-10-start-menu-not-working/ found on the Internet. i Follw the step provided in the Site. My Problem is solved now.
Thank You

I found it when I READ the manual for your motherboard looking for a way to get the power supply voltages without using a Multimeter. Is the power supply cool to touch ? I'm interested if the power supply fan is working correctly. The other computer temps look normal from the speccy report. Ok, now I have UPDATED WINDOWS to 21H1 Build 19043.985

Also - installed all MB devices, checked Device Manager for missing drivers - all updated, no more visible missing.

Here's report:
http://speccy.piriform.com/results/wOroRkkKMKq0n8MabuSal1J

MiroThe report looks fine, What about the other information I have asked for please. I was searching in manual and found keystroke to make screenshot - it is F12.

So, screenshots are here.

Miro

So, again - I was waiting if freeze will appear again and after ~36 hours it was here.

What can do this?
Really see not any problem - can do it any application running in background? Or virus?

But STILL I don't know if is software able to freeze PC that is not possible to use reset button and only one way is to turn it off...

MiroHi

The power supply isn't the best with the specs of the computer see about getting a decent power supply. Also consider a new SSD drive for Windows and try again a clean reload.

The concern about the power supply is the 12.56 Volts this is on the high side.
Ok, last Q I think is only one and then we can close thread:

I had the same CONFIG except PCIe to PCI adapter add-on board and never freezed in previous Windows 10 Pro installation.
This is first time Windows 10 Enterprise installation which i bought in low-price.

Miro

Hello there
Today i was trying to install windows 7 over windows 10 my dell desktop.
And it was going well on the iinstallation and i leaved it there go back to do other stuff in the other room .
But when i RETURNED it was showing this message .
'' dell a winpeshl file is present but no commands were successfully launched. this could be caused by incorrect formatting or an invalid executable name. please consult the documentation for more information''
please help me
ThanksYou are installing it on the same HDD as 10 ? ?...Bad idea.Not sure that is a great move as it is not supported... but the main thing I would look out for is the partition type for Windows 7 was MBR in most cases and Windows 10 is GPT in most cases so it will get quite tricky unless you go ahead and format the disk before you get started. That said I think it will be an uphill battle once it is installed because you will need lots of service packs and updates that Microsoft is no longer automatically serving up so you will have to do most of them manually if you need it to PLAY with any current software.It is NEVER recommended to install one OS over another one, even if these are Windows versions. Those, who do it, will always have the SYSTEM bugs, and they will get a bunch of trash and useless files on the computer. One system installed “from ZERO” is OK.Not sure what the you mean when you say you are trying to install Win 7 over Win 10.

Do you mean you are trying to install Win 7 on a Win 10 computer in order to be able to dual boot the 2 OSes? If you are trying to do that on the same disk, it PROBABLY won't work. It is only supported by the OS if you install the newer OS as the 2nd OS. You can install the older OS on a separate disk and then use boot options to select which disk to boot from.

If you are trying to replace Win 10 on an existing computer then you will need to do a clean install. You need to boot from a Win 7 install disk or thumb drive and then delete the existing OS partition and tell the installer to install Win 7 using the previously deleted partition.

If you were going to install Win 10 on a Win 7 computer then you could do what is called an in-place upgrade which would replace Win 7 with Win 10. Some people recommend against doing an in-place upgrade but I have done many in-place upgrades and have never had any issues with it. There is no such thing as an in-place downgrade where you could replace a newer OS with an older OS, it only works going forward.

These are all questions i predict will never be answered...

Hi there!
I have a PC and hv connected USB BT dongle and hv a BT HEADSET but on connecting it appears while scanning but on connecting it shows:
We didn't get any RESPONCE from the DEVICE. Try connecting again.
PC Bluetooth is connecting seamlessly with android phones and so is the BT headset with the android phones but They both don't seem to connect with each other at all!
Please help,
Thanks in ADVANCE!

I have an LG laptop (motherboard by LG Electronics, Model 17Z90N, Version FAB1) that is LESS than 2 months old. I’ve been using a Bluetooth mouse without any issues until yesterday after a Windows 10 20H2 update. I discovered the mouse wasn’t working. I checked Device Manager I discovered the Bluetooth icon was missing. Checking the hidden file option, I found the Bluetooth Icon with the listed drivers but was UNABLE to enable this device. I uninstalled the Bluetooth driver(s) thinking they would auto reinstall on a reboot. They didn’t, I tried downloading the manufacturer Bluetooth drivers (zip file with install) and the install PROGRAM failed to install the drivers. I’ve tried rolling back the Update, didn’t help. Tried rolling the computer back to an earlier date, no date was available due to the update. I called LG, they wanted me to reinstall Windows and see if that would fix the problem. I really didn’t WANT to reinstall all my programs so I told tech support I’d do a little research first and would get back with them. Tried the Google search option and the fixes didn’t work. I called MS tech support, they told me it was a motherboard, hardware problem and not due to their update. They recommended I return the computer… The computer was purchased at Costco so the return is not an issue. The computer seems to be working fine, other than not having a Bluetooth option and I'd rather not have to reinstall EVERYTHING if there is a simple fix?

Hello EVERYONE!

I'm new here so please excuse any mistakes made. I'm having some very weird issues with my gaming PC. Let me explain:

My PC was built in 2015. It always worked, except that I sometimes had to install Windows updates multiple times and that, when I hadn't turned it on for a day, Chrome tabs or games would crash until I got a bluescreen, turned the PC off for a minute, turned it back on and everything worked like a charm again.

Now I moved and the strangest issues started:

> I was able to use the PC for browsing the web, but Chrome tabs OFTEN crashed
> I got bluescreens more often, until the PC started to crash WITHOUT even showing a bluescreen
> I could play old or simple games (Assassin's Creed 2 or Stardew Valley for example) but when I tried to launch newer games (Borderlands 3, Fallout 76, Assassin's Creed Odyssey) the PC crashed again. Not in the menu of the game but only when I tried to load a save.

At first I thought it would be a software problem. I tried to reset Windows which didn't work out ("there was a problem trying to reset Windows"). I installed Windows again from scratch but that didn't change anything.
Meanwhile the crashes got even worse. Usually the PC booted, crashed right when I entered my password, booted up again, crashed and I was only able to log in at the third or fourth try. No bluescreen, just crashes.
Since installing Windows again didn't help I had a friend (who works in IT) check the hardware. He tried everything and couldn't find any issues. He installed Windows another time, updated my BIOS, installed all Windows updates and drivers and said it would work out again.

As far as I have checked surfing the web, listening to music or watching stuff works out better than before. I didn't have any crashes while doing that.
But now comes the weird part - whenever I try to launch one of the games I mentioned earlier the computer still crashes. I was able to play 3 minutes of Fallout YESTERDAY before it crashed.

I have absolutely no idea what's wrong. I'd be very grateful if someone had any idea on how to help.

The bluescreens I had (when I still got them) were: System Thread Exception not Handled, Memory Management and Kernel Security Check Failure.

Please help me out, it would be much appreciated I'd use memtest86 and make sure your system RAM is completely healthy. You might be getting lucky in running smaller memory applications as they dont touch the upper memory address area where the problem is and when you GET a game that uses the flawed memory address you then get crashes.

Other thing to do if it passes memtest86 is to download and run Passmark Benchmark and see what test causes the system to crash. If its when its doing the GPU testing then it could be a power supply that is borderline that is dropping out and reporting as a memory issue, however usually its a Kernel Power error when looking in Windows Event Log.

Hello everyone! so I am currently in Europe and I had my desktop computer mailed to me from the USA. When I try to boot it
it up, nothing is displayed on the monitor besides "no signal". I thought maybe the HDMI cable was loose but it was not.
I thought that maybe the graphics card was not seated well but it was seated in all the way. I then tried using a VGA cable
to see if I could see anything on the monitor but still no luck. I tried reseating the RAM and all the plugs/connections and
no luck still. Then I tried to to reset the motherboard CMOS by taking out the battery and still no luck. I connected my laptop
to my monitor so I know the monitor is working.

Now, based on all the troubleshoot videos I have seen, there are three things that can be the problem. I will order them from least likely to most likely, here we go.

1. I still have not tried booting the desktop without the graphics card installed, but somthing tells me that this is not the issue.

2. there is hardware damage due to the mistreatment of my desktop on its trip from the USA to Europe.

3. the desktop is not getting enough power to boot, only enough to turn the fans on, etc.

I say this because I am using a European to American power adapter. the adapter I am using is a "type C" adapter, and
on it, it has written "10A max 250V~"

my desktop is an HP compaq from 2015 and on the power supply it reads "AC input 100-240 V-/4 A,50-60 Hz" then "DC output
shall not exceed 240 W"

and on the actual power cord to the power suppy reads "10A 125V"

I bought a new European powercord but it reads " 10A 250V" can I still use it?

What do you guys think is going on?

*one important thing I should note is that my desktop SEEMS to take a little longer to start up than usual and it is working harder and louder than ususal but no bleeping noises or anything coming form it*
Hi
You can use the new European power cord without the voltage converter. The if the computer has "AC input 100-240 V-/4 A,50-60 Hz" it is universal world wide and auto switches for correct line voltage.

Please check the monitor is plugged into the graphics card not the motherboard. If you want to test you could remove the graphics card and use the onboard graphics. Just as a test.

If the drive is taking longer to boot it MAY have been damaged in transit so when you have the computer displaying you can go into the bios which you will need to do to reset the date and time.

If you are in the setup and there is a "test hard drive" available then run that to test the hard drive.

thank you for responding lisa. I have tried plugging the VGA to the motherboard without the graphics card installed and I have also tried using the HDMI cable with the graphics card installed and still no luck. I can't see anything on the screen at all, no BIOS and no setup, NOTHING! I may need to buy a new comuter now. I did perform a factory reset before packing the computer, but that should not be the issue right?The factory reset shouldn't have caused this problem. Have you tried a new cmos battery, normally a CR2032 battery. Or if you have a Multimeter to test the battery voltage it needs to be over 3 V Can you CONFIRM there is no voltage switch on the Power supply? I'm sure you would have seen it when looking for the label, but never hurts to confirm. I imagine powering up a PSU on 240V when it is SET (if it has a switch) to 120 could very well cause damage to the PSU.So I just took the computer to the repair shop and all they did was reinstall windows and now it works . and there is definitely no switch on the power supply. some other guys told me that my power supply can handle the new power cord as it will acutomatically ocnvert the voltage. thank you all for your replies!!I have no idea what the problem is/was, but I can ASSURE you that reinstalling Windows has absolutely nothing to do with the "No Signal" message you were getting at boot. That message is displayed long before bootloader even tries to load the OS. Having said that, I'm glad your system is operating properly now.

I RECENTLY bought a new laptop and i am having a strange problem. I have hundreds of photo's saved as .jpg and i had no problem opening them on my old laptop. But on the new one about 5% of them won't open in any program. I get a message saying it apears we don't support this file format. I THOUGHT MAYBE they had become corrupted so i tried them on my old laptop again and they open without any problem. Both laptops are windows 10.Are these files unusually smaller in file size than the other JPGS that open?They are about the same size but when i click properties the ones that won't open say things like this

Size 17 bytes
Size on disk 128kbThose are not the files...those are shortcuts to the images...I put all the images in a folder and scanned it for viruses but they are clean. They all open on my old laptop but on the new one i get this 17 bytes. It doesn't happen on the old one.This is getting really annoying now. I have a photo that opens on my old laptop. I put it on an external USB drive and it won't open on the new laptop. I saved it as a jpg and also a png but none of them open. I have also noticed some files are DISAPPEARING. I put them in a folder called notopen and they vanished overnight.

hello EVERYBODY
i would like to explain to you my issue
one of my clients has this problem:
on an Older ASUS Laptop (will be back to let you know the exact model) i try to boot up Windows 10,
Windows logo is displayed correctly,
after boot, screen turns black and it's impossible to do anything
note that the laptop is not turned off. it just displays a "black screen"
i thought it might be a Graphics Card and/or screen issue, so i connected a separate monitor via the HDMI port
Windows was displayed correctly, but only on the EXTERNAL monitor
so i thought it was a Windows/Graphics Card DISPLAY configuration issue
tried every possible combination of settings (duplicate screen, extended screen, etc) without any effect
so thought it might be a driver issue
forgot to mention : AMD drivers
so booted into safe MODE...image was displayed correctly on the laptop screen
so uninstalled all drivers (amd official driver uninstaller tool)
rebooted computer into NORMAL mode and voila image was correctly displayed on laptop
so went to Windows update to download graphics drivers
as soon as the drivers were reinstalled, the screen turned black again so was forced to connect my external screen
so i though the issue came from Windows 10 OS (corrupted drivers, registry, etc)
therefore i installed a brand new copy of Windows 10 on a different SSD
Windows installed correctly, drivers were installed correctly, everything was running smoothly
so i did the same thing for my client's computer
installed all Windows updates so i don't have any surprises
everything was great
all this was two weeks ago
yesterday the client calls me to let me know the issue came back
do you have any suggestions?
will get back to you with the exact laptop specs
thank you

I am running Windows 10 Pro on my desktop PC. I recently cloned my 250GB SSD to a BIGGER 1TB SSD using EaseUS SOFTWARE. I then disconnected the 250 and installed the 1TB and the PC booted with no problem and all my things were there. I then tried to CREATE a recovery drive on a USB thumb drive and I am getting this error message.

Question? Is this bc of the clone I did? I have the windows installation CD. Do I even need a recovery drive if god forbid I ever need to do fresh install of Windows 10 Pro. ThanksWhen you make a recovery drive it contains the latest windows files with the UPDATES. As we get more and more updates it is possible your original install media files will be out of date.
I doubt it was the clone you did. Did you clone all the partitions on the 250 GB hard drive to the 1 TB ?

If you are getting that error things to try.

Check windows is activated if not you need to activate it.
Make sure your Windows 10 has all pending updates installed.
Run SFC /scannow from and ADMINISTRATOR prompt and fix any windows file errors.

Please keep us posted

Hello all,

My mate Alex has an FTP server setup at his house. It is all set up how it should be, however I cannot CONNECT using either the PRIVATE or public IP. The server is set up in IIS, and Alex lives about 200 miles AWAY from me so there is no way to be able to go down to his and my only form of communication is via the phone.

I've tried in cmd, file explorer, chrome and iexplore but have had no luck.

Every TIME I try and connect, I get the errors attatched.

Any help? Last time I had a FTP Server my ISP did a port block for FTP and I ended up having to set it up to run on a non traditional port in ORDER to get around my ISP's FTP Port blocking. Have you tried to set up the service to run on a port like 7777 instead of port 21 which might not be blocked. You will have to set up port forwarding on the router to allow for the traffic to pass through to the system that is hosting the FTP service. Additionally whomever connects to the FTP needs to specify the IP: Port Number to connect to it at a different port number otherwise whatever means your using to connect via FTP will default to port 21. Firewall exception also would be required to allow traffic on the port.I think he needs to get the proper FTP address on the other end alond with you suggested Dave...

Hello, its my first post here,
Please excuse my newbiness and ignorance..
We have a family HP laptop , and Ive had this confusion for a while now.
Everytime I power it on, it starts from boot, however, all the applications that have been running
previously are still open, as it was. So I think it was actually hibernating..
But then when I’m all done, I want to put it to HIBERNATE too, but I don’t see any option in the
Start menu for that, only sleep and sign out.. I am aware there are tweaks to enable hibernation,
but i am not interested in that.. I want to know how to hibernate it the same way the others have, without tweaking or cmd ...

Thank you for your time...It should hibernate when you close the lid or you have the option on the Start button to sleep.I checked battery options and it is set to sleep on close lid and on power button pressing ..
Im frustrated because i know it wakes up from hibernation not sleep..How do you know that? In the root of c: drive is there a large file named hiberfil.sys?To enable hibernation in Windows 10:

Select Start , then select Settings > System > Power & sleep > Additional power settings

Select "Choose what the power button does", and then select "Change settings that are currently unavailable". Under "Shutdown settings", select the "Hibernate" checkbox (if it's available), and then select "Save changes".

Now you’ll be able to hibernate your PC:
Select Start , and then select Power > Hibernate.Quote from: Allan on March 14, 2021, 06:06:14 AM

How do you know that? In the root of c: drive is there a large file named hiberfil.sys?

Checking for the hiberfil.sys file only proves that the laptop was hibernated before at some point, as you can have both hibernate and sleep set at the same time.

I didn't say it was disabled - the original question stated that the option to hibernate was not available in the start menu power options.
The poster hosa wants that option in the start menu - I provided instructions on how to do that.

It doesn't mean it isn't already enabled in the power settings in control panel (or Settings > System > Power & sleep > Additional power settings > Choose what the power buttons do / Choose what closing the lid does), as there are separate options for these two occurrences, and you can have one set to hibernate, the other to sleep, or both to sleep..... are you getting it yet?

I didn't say it was disabled - the original question stated that the option to hibernate was not available in the start menu power options.
The poster hosa wants that option in the start menu - I provided instructions on how to do that.

It doesn't mean it isn't already enabled in the power settings in control panel (or Settings > System > Power & sleep > Additional power settings > Choose what the power buttons do / Choose what closing the lid does), as there are separate options for these two occurrences, and you can have one set to hibernate, the other to sleep, or both to sleep..... are you getting it yet?

Hello

I am having bad PERFORMANCES is most games... and what i mean by that is that i always have a low GPU usage and that causes the FRAMES to dip below 60...in some games like squad,my cpu is at a CONSTANT 30/45% usage and my gpu 40/60%... it does not go any higher than that...When i got my pc around a year ago,i had this problem and it was even worse...i fixed this problem by updating my os from windows website... and for around a month, my pc ran perfectly... squad was using around 70/95% of my gpu and i was getting very good frames... and this affected all games, i am just using the game squad as an EXAMPLE...while i was downloading an addon in microsoft flight simulator...my screen went black an rebooted to the bios... it asked me if i wanted to change any setting or keep the settings...oof course i selected to keep my settings,then i booted back into the pc and launched a game,and ive noticed the performance went back as before, low gpu causing horrible frames, can anyone please help


My specs
GPU: GIGABYTE AOURUS 2080s 8GB
CPU:I7 9700K OVERCLOCKED TO 4.1 GHZ
RAM:2x8 Hyper X RAM 2166 Mhz
PSU:850W COOLER MASTER
MOTHERBOARD: B365M PRO-VH (MS-7C31)

Forgive me as i did not understand where to post the topic.

I have a dell latitude E5510 which got updated to windows 10. Messing around with the drivers I accidently bsod the computer. I did have a back up made but I see no options to access it. I have tried to acess windows automatic repair but that also didnt work (not sure if i did it correctly, but i tried power off with the power button 3 times at the dell screen). I have legacy mode enabled but my brother whipped my recovery drive. Is there any way to open this thing in safe mode? Or another way getting around it? Upon turning on the laptop i get the dell logo, then i am immediately sent to a screen which says "power wattage and type cannot be determined" followed by;

To continue press f1 key
To change setup OPTION press f2 key
To run onboard diagnostics press f5 key

This however is not the issue, as my computer runs fine as long as the charger is plugged in.

When i press f1 then i am sent to the bsod which is the error code 0xc000014c File:\Boot\BCD.

When pressing f12 i a prompted with these options

Legacy boot:
Internal HDD
CD/DVD/CD-RW Drive
Onboard NIC

Other options:
BIOS Settup
Diagnostics

Thank you.
Would my backup be found in internal HDD? I just didnt wanna fool around to much more, and create anymore complications.Hi

Your Laptop appears to have been supplied with a 320GB mechanical drive I suggest you run the bios diagnostics built into the laptop.
Here's how to access bios diagnostics.
Restart your Dell PC.
When the Dell logo appears, press F12 key to enter One-time Boot Menu.
Use the arrow keys to select Diagnostics and press Enter key on the keyboard.
Follow the on-screen prompts and respond appropriately to complete the diagnostics.
If the test fails, write down the error code and validation code.

Just run the short test on the hard drive if you get an error code it normally means you need to replace the drive.

If everything tests ok then try the power down as you did 3 times but you may need to do it 4 times. then select repair problems starting windows

if it can't fix the problem you will need a copy of windows 10 to do a repair install.
ALREADY have done I got
Msg: error code 2000-0146
Msg: hard drive 0 - self test logs contain previous error(s), give to technical support blah blah blah.

What do you mean by machanical drive? Im sure the computer works fine if i only had my usb to restore itIgnore accidentally quoted*unless.. Somehow I fried it.
What about if you moved the laptop when it was on, Over heated the hard drive or any number of things which may have happened. What about as an idea the hard drive is over 5 years old in a laptop 5 years is a good life.

The last thing to try is setting the hard drive mode in the bios to SATA and see if the computer boots or if you run the diagnostics again do you get the error?

If so then you need another drive.
Well the hard drive actually already got replaced once about three years ago, but it was given to me in that condition. The fan is on the bottom so MAYBE overheating was also possible. Though i believe I know what caused it ultimately, and mainly is due to my own stupidity. Is it possible to use a usb drive to restore it without REINSTALLING a new hard disk? Or is it inevitable?I did a full diagnosis and found no other errors besides the 2000-0146 But the bsod does say I need a recovery disk or usb to restore.

Also idk it this means anything but when i press the power button power immediately cuts off very quickly, no delays.Okay so i got to borrow someones computer, i made a recovery usb with built in windows 10 features. I spammed the f12 then loaded the usb with new option that appeared.

Legacy boot:
USB Storage Device

Gave me windows logo and loading circle dot thingy and...... Nothing, black screen.

So i instead tried,

UEFI Boot:
UEFI : INT13(USB,0x80)

Gave windows logo and blinking "|" symbol at top... Waitng, waiting, and im in, I choose keyboard layout US, then this appears.

Choose an option

Recover from a drive>just remove my files>Unable to recover your PC. The system is to small.

Troubleshoot>starup repair>black screen windows logo "diagnosing your PC">Startup repair couldn't repair your pc.

Troubleshoot>system restore>*To use system restore, you must specify which Windows installation to restore. Restart this computer, select an operating system, and then select System restore* -tried this there is no such option.

Troubleshoot>command prompt> Sysreset -factory reset, but gave me the message "There was a problem resetting this pc

Also tried
bcdedit /set {default} safeboot minimal
But no safe mode :/

There is also system image recovery option but idk if i should be messing around with that.

Basically none of those things worked. Did i format the usb wrong or does this mean the hard drive is toasted? Sorry im not a guru.
The hard drive is toast install a new drive and reload windows.

Is there a recommended WIN 10 book for seniors? I don't have a local tutor and just turning on the pc, wants me to just turn it off. I tried to remove BING no luck. Before taking it back to a local tech, I would like to try making changes myself to get a nice almost blank screen with only items I put on. I would just perform Google searches for each thing you want to do. For example, if you want Windows 10 to look more like Windows 7, do a search for that ("make windows 10 look like windows 7). Downloading and using "Open Shell" (formerly Classic Shell) is the first thing you should do and should make you feel much better very quickly.

I don't know what you mean by "removing Bing". Bing is a search engine. If you don't like it, just use Google instead.

If there is anything specific with which you continue to have problems, just ask and we'll do our best to help.
Hey there,

I found this link. Its a video guide to Windows 10 for beginners. There is a yellow circle with the little arrow, just watch where they MOVE it along the screen, as the PERSON is using it to show you different things. As Allan said on here is full of people willing to help, so if you get stuck just make a post and you'll get help pretty quickly.

https://www.google.com/search?q=windows+10+beginners+guide&oq=windows+10+beginners+guide&aqs=chrome..69i57.12845j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_yNeqX9aeGY2M1fAPzsKgoAw12

Hope this helps! Reading books will never work if you do not practice. Open Google and simply ask questions that interest you. Besides, you can do much yourself. Just ask Google to give you prompts about turning off UPDATES, unnecessary programs, etc.Thanks for the way to start. I came from one site and it was emphasizing to set up a local account at start up, not MS, but I never was asked about that when I turned the pc on. What is a local account? i will access the other suggestions as soon as possible. You can buy a paper book in the book store. They say, the information you get from the paper (not from the screen of your device) is remembered better. It will be better to spend 10 bucks (or even less) to know everything about Windows 10.Over a few or more years I have found the various "For Dummies" manuals put on the market to be excellent manuals for all sorts of things related to this industry and I just WENT and checked and they have a third edition out for Win10 and it seems to also focus on the senior folks of the Net citizenry.

I believe this is the proper website for those folks, but if I am in error, please forgive the mistake. It looks correct.

https://www.dummies.com/computers/operating-systems/windows-10/windows-10-seniors-dummies-3rd-edition/

And I did a quick check on Amazon's site and they seem to be listing that at about 20 bucks, so that gives you a range of about what it might cost when you go into your local brick-and-mortar style bookstore, if you don't trust Amazon. I didn't check to see if the "For Dummies" folks sell directly from their site.

But they have garnered a good reputation over the years.

From time to time I create shortcuts to folders on an external HDD. When I move the shortcuts from the external HDD to the DESKTOP of the second monitor, very often they auto-place themselves in the primary monitor. Why would that be ? - or more importantly, (how) can I ensure that the SHORTCUT takes its POSITION where I PASTE it, rather than having to relocate it there after PASTING ?

When I am on bios I can hear fans are very quiet (as it was usually) in idle.

When I login into Windows, I got fan SPIKES to the max (for at LEAST 20 sec) and then back to normal (for a bit), and then back to the max and again back to normal. It happens all the time.

Before I reinstalled the windows fan was to the max all the time (that's the reason why re-installed windows).

It was working fine for a week but now I have this issue.[/li][/list]


-Realtemp screenshot (TEMPERATURE seems fine) https://i.ibb.co/V9mxtGy/image.png
-The task manager doesn't show any strange PROCESSES in the background.
-PC scanned with all possible TOOLS, cleaner, Malwarebytes and Spybot-S&D, nothing was found.
-Laptop - GL702VT

What could be the issue?

My login was done with the Hello PIN option, native to Windows 10. Inexplicably, this option disappeared from my account login options, even without being able to configure Windows Hello, only appering the options with PASSWORD, security KEY and password with image. Version 20H2.Quote from: hmartinsfilho on December 06, 2020, 05:37:49 AM

My login was done with the Hello PIN option, native to Windows 10. Inexplicably, this option disappeared from my account login options, even without being able to configure Windows Hello, only appearing the options with password, security key and password with image. Version 20H2.

Greetings!

Have a cute little ultra book (Sony SVT13115FDS) that i have been bringing back to life. It has been in storage for about 4-5 years and after SOURCING a POWER adapter i found the SSD would no longer power on. That is the least of my issues however. My main issue, is that the H2 BIOS has no UEFi boot option despite the laptop being a third gen i5.

After installing WINDOWS 10, i see it installed in Legacy MODE. So i tried creating a Win10 USB in UEFI and the system refuses to boot from that. So i decided to check Sony's website for a BIOS update. YAAY there is one! but the file downloaded is corrupted. and refuses to open. The link to my failed attempt is here: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/svt-series-svt1311-series/svt13115fds/downloads/W0008109

Either its corrupt or it just refuses to download. i got it to download ONLY on my mac under SAFARI. Under windows it just refuses to download.

So I dont have UEFI, nor can i get a dang BIOS update. Can anyone help?

Specs are

Sony SVT13115FDS Ultrabook
4gb onboard ram
Intel i5: 3317U @ 1.7ghz
120Gb SSD

Years ago! Going into the registry was never a bit concern. I always backed it up ust in case. Now with WIN 10 I do WANT to do that to remove BING fro,m the pc and it seems fairly straight forward with the print out I have. Any special cautions that I should TAKE would be appreciated.I would create a system restore point. Then if windows won't boot you can use the recovery consul to restore from the changes.
You also need a complete registry...Windows fails in this regard as it leaves out KEY components...
I use ERUNT for this...

From what I understand windows 10 retail copy can only be installed no more than three times where the OEM copy can only be installed one time.

So in other words if you hard drive dies you cannot install windows 10 on OEM computer but a retail copy you can install no more than three times.

Like what is the point of OEM copy of windows 10? Is that why when you buy a computer they do not ship you the DVD or USB stick of OEM of windows? If the hard drive dies well NOTHING can be DONE but getting a retail copy to do is reinstall.Both can be installed over and over again on that same device with no activation issues.
OEM is meant to be tied to a specific device, the first one its activated on.
Retail can be transferred from device to device, but only EVER activated on one device at any one time.
It's a bit more complicated than that but that's the short answer.
And as far as I know, the install media created via the Media Creation TOOL will accept Retail and OEM product codes.

I hope this helps!
Leo Clarke

HP 8100 TOWER, i5 660, 8 GB RAM, 500 GB Sata, Windows 10, MS office, Chrome, foxit reader, imagestone viewver.

PC is restarting. Checked ram one by one, put thermal paste on processor. It is still resarting. It restarts when I open programs. I checked processes and disk usage goes 100%. after sometime it restarts. When I stop working on windows, usage goes down to 0 to 10.

I have also tried all fixes mentioned below. It is still restarting by doin all one by one, and still 100 disk usage.

Disable SuperFetch service.
Update device drivers.

Update windows 20H2
Perform a diskcheck.
Reset Virtual Memory.
Disable Antivirus Software temporarily.
Fix your StorAHCI.sys driver.


Then I removed HDD, insert one ram of 2 GB, and connect another old HDD with installed Windows 10. So PC was not resarting with this HDD, but it also goes 100% disk usage.

What do I do? Do I install fresh windows or any other fixes is there to do? I need to use the 1st 500 GB HDD.

Kindly help.I did it and resolved the issue by doing the following.[/B]

Go to Device Manager > Display Adapters > "Properties" of the Device > Select "Uninstall Device" from "Driver" Tab

Check this "Delete the driver software from this device", press OK and RESTART the PC.

Afer restarting it automatically detects the driver and worked fine. As well as disk usage decreased to one percent.


Thank you everyone.

PS: If someone try this above procedure and does not detect driver automatically then make sure you have backed up or downloaded your display device driver from the authorised RESOURCES.

My DAD gave me his pc and it cannot in any way install Realtek HD Audio drivers and it was the only way I KNEW how to have a equalizer console with the possibility of lowering bass because I have a set of speakers and subwoofer that has no bass control and it's always way too powerful.
Anyone knows a way to do it, i would be really grateful.A couple of questions: Does the sound work now and did you go to the RealTek site for the drivers?no upgrade since and yes the drivers from the realtek site, tried others from a site suggested to resolve this issue on youtube didn't work either https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oPEPdUG0YAPlease post a speccy report for the system. These days it is unlikely to have any other sound chip than Realtek it COULD be some other sound chip.

Speccy is available here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

When you finish download and running the program
Select File / Publish snapshot
Then COPY the URL link in your NEXT post

Hello Team!

I'm experiencing a really frustrating issue on my Windows 10 PC.

I lose internet access randomly during the day on my WIRED connection (Wi-Fi works just fine).
When this happens, the internet icon in the lower right CORNER remains the same, shows "Internet Access" and I get no error messages.
But when I try to open a website in a browser, it just hangs and after a while shows the following error: https://prnt.sc/11wuumx

I've tried this in several browsers, including Firefox, Edge, Chrome, Brave and Vivaldi. No browser works, but Firefox is the only one showing an error message after a while - the other ones just hang.

One interesting THING I have noticed is that whatever game service I have running and downloading stuff when this happens, it can continue to download without issues. Most of the time this issue happens randomly, so regardless if I have any programs open or downloading anything, but for example if I'm downloading a game through Steam or Battle.net, I am able to pause and continue that download even after this issue happens. Interestingly enough, if I log out and try to log back in into any of those programs, I can't.

I've recorded the whole process with all the symptoms and error messages visible and uploaded to YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7M2OmggW4o

I tried using the ipconfig commands in CMD to fix this, namely release, renew and flushdns, as well as commands like: netsh winsock reset and netsh int ip reset, but these did not make any change.

Under Device Manager > Network Adapters I found my network adapter (Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller), clicked on Properties and disabled the following: Energy-Efficient Ethernet, Green Ethernet and Wake on Magic Packet (as suggested in ANOTHER post I found online). Again, this did not prevent the issue from happening.

I'm on Windows 10 Version 10.0.19042 Build 19042
My motherboard is: B450 TOMAHAWK MAX (MS-7C02)

I removed the network driver completely while in Safe Mode without network and installed the latest network driver and chipset driver from the OFFICIAL website for my motherboard, which is a B450 Tomahawk Max, and this did not change anything as well. I also tried the Windows built-in feature "Update Driver" and let Windows automatically install it's own driver after removing the old one, to no avail.

Finally, I tried using that same wired connection on my Linux powered laptop, using Pop OS. I've used the laptop for 2 days without disconnects.
This might mean something, but I want to point out that there have been periods when this issue did not happen for a few days at a time, but lately it's been happening 3-5 times a day.

When this happens, I'm able to access my router settings at 192.168.1.1, so I'm guessing communication is being established correctly there. Also, Wi-Fi works all the time, which makes me thing that there's nothing wrong on my ISP's side.

The only thing that fixes the issue is if I:

a) restart my PC
b) go into the Device Manager and then disable and enable my network adapter.

I've spent weeks browsing all kinds of different forums and pages trying to fix the issue, but could not find anything that solved it for me.
I also called my ISP and they sent over a technician who tested everything out, concluded there are no issues on their side and replaced my router with a brand new one, for good measure.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Please let me know if I can provide any further information.

Thank you so much!

- Olat



I have a newly BUILT PC with Windows 10. It has an SSD boot drive for the OS and an SSD data drive. My old rig's [Windows 7 Pro] data drive is a physical HD. I would prefer to plug my old physical HD into the new rig so I can have access to the data rather than TRANSFER everything to the new SSD data drive.

What steps do I need to take to add the old physical HD as an additional drive in the new PC? Hi

What is the new PC, so we can check what connections you have and mounting available. If these check out OK then you will need power and a data cable. In new PC's the computer will always boot from the Windows 10 drive so booting isn't a PROBLEM. Also can we have the make and MODEL of the old drive you are installing.

I don't like the drivers that come with the HP PC "High DEFINITION Audio Device" because in the Enhancements tab i don't have an equalizer option to reduce the bass.
Tried to install the Realtek Drivers in every way possible and it never works EVEN after REBOOTING, any way to FORCE the Realtek drivers over High Definition Audio Device ones?

I have a WIN 10 pc but can't use it. My WIN 7 works great on the small tv which I NEED to switch from the OS to a viewer for the visually impaired. When I turn on the WIN 10 pc connecting it to the TV, everything is too large and off the SCREEN. It WANTS me to log in at times and since I am not registered ? as a WIN10 user, I GO nowhere fast I can not find a screen resolution area where I can make everything smaller. Is it just impossible on WIN 10? Is this a HOPELESS pc? It also has BING on it which I hate.

I DL'ed an installation FILE - an .exe - and when I try to launch it, I receive the message "Windows cannot access the specified device, path, or file. You may not have the APPROPRIATE permissions to access the item."

• I am the only User AND I am the Administrator on this machine.
• When I look at the file's Properties=>Security, I am allowed on everything except "Special Permissions". Ditto for the folder it's in (except for "Special Permissions", which isn't listed for the folder).
• I have moved it to a different folder, and same thing.
• I have tried downloading other installers, same thing.
• I did a System Restore to go BACK before my most recent Windows Update, same thing.

My laptop came with win8, then i did the free upgrade to win10. However, i am in the middle of replaceing the bad drive in my laptop with a new 250gb ssd drive. here is the issue... Where do i download win10 from microsoft for free for my new drive since i had all ready paid for win8? but the drive with win8 is bad.. Im kind of stuck.

thanks.When you upgraded from Win 8 to Win 10 for free, Microsoft issued your computer a Digital LICENSE for Win 10. After you install Win 10 from the following link, the first time you access the Internet your edition of Win 10 will automatically AUTHORIZE. During the install when it asks for a product key click the selection "I don't have a key".

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10I have Dell Inspiration 15 with by default windows 10 license version.. Now i am going to install windows 7. Tiles consuming the internet data.
I can't install windows 7. It is showing windows fatal error. Please help me.There's only one completely legal and legitimate way to download Windows 10, and that's via Microsoft's official Windows 10 download page:
VISIT the Windows 10 download page on Microsoft's website.
Select Download tool now.
Open MediaCreationTool.exe when it's finished downloading.
I hope this helps!
Leo Clarke

You can't run Windows on USB but you can install windows on USB device. Hi Miro

If you have already installed linux on the 2.5" sata drive and it is booting ok. Then it seems strange Windows isn't installing and booting. You haven't said the model of Laptop is it a Dell?
Some Dells default to raid mode in the bios for hard drive access. When in this mode windows install won't see the hard drive. You will need to change to IDE or ACHI. ACHI is preferred for Windows 10.At least one reply without contempt.

To all similar - if you are not sure what you're writing and LOOKING at me like a moron, try it really. If I know anything by my experience, then I can write what really possible is or is not - then I can only give advice, not contempt.
BTW: The same way I was meaning that's not possible to boot DOS, Windows and OSX on single disk - and it works - try it! I provide help. It is only example...

Back to last reply:
I have currently installed Linux Mint on USB and runs fine.
Windows install works, but when I want to decide to which disk/partition to install - no disk ris ecognized. Similar way was problem with Windows 7 long time ago. I downloaded drivers (there can be selected at that situation) and it was WORKING. I meant that Windows 10 has these drivers.
It is laptop or better to say netbook. No any manufacturer name. Of course AHCI is only possible way in current systems.
I try to find driver and if I'll find, I provide link. Or if will work not, I will install it to HDD and then create RAW disk image and then copy it to USB.
I was busy, so please forgive me delay. I'll report soon.

MiroWhere is the contempt ? ?...are you mentioning my posts ?
I don't understand.Practically any processor capable of running Windows 7 or Windows 8 has this hardware feature, so that problem is likely to be that it’s been disabled in your computer’s BIOS. To re-enable this feature you need to restart your computer and go into the BIOS (Delete, F2 and F10 are common keys to enter it, but check your computer’s manual for FULL instructions). Every BIOS is different, so the exact instructions will differ from computer to computer.
Look for a section on your processor, such as CPU Configuration, which is likely to be in the Advanced section of the BIOS. Make sure that the Execute-Disable Bit is turned on, which may also be called XD or NX. Finally, make sure that you’ve turned on the virtualization option. Save your settings, reboot your computer and you should now be able to install Windows 10.

I hope this information will be helpful!
Leo ClarkeHe's been gone since April...

Windows 10 used to seem really stable.

Lately - last two weeks or so - I have been getting lots of weirdness:

• Office products hanging, "Not Responding" to things like F12 (Save As)
• Windows Explorer taking a lonnnnnnnggggg time to fully open a window ("Fully Open" = icons have correct thumbnails, LITTLE green bar in ADDRESS window MAKES it all the way from left to right)
• Windows Explorer "Not Responding"

hey everyone, my problem that MICROSOFT Store and all its related apps has been disappeared i don't take attention for that at first because i don't need them a lot ... But before two days ago i need to install some apps from the Store but the disaster was the Store not exist, i tried to google the problem to fix it, after some tries i successed on re install the Store but when clicking on it no things open or HAPPEN ... I tried alot of things like DSIM or sfc chkdsk etc ... Even i UPGRADE the OS but that don't fix the problem ...
Any help to LUNCH the Store without CLEAN install ?

I have a directory with multiple subdirectories, each with files and subdirectories of its own.

When I right-click on the grandparent and select Properties, the Black Box next to "READ Only" appears. I UNcheck it, tell it that it's OK to apply to subfolders, etc. and then... Nothing. Same Black Box. (That is, the Black Box that means not everything is [X] Read Only or [ ] Not).

I have clicked through to each individual file and subfolder, and NONE are ticked for Read Only. I have gone into Folder Options to "Show" Hidden folders.

I have not messed around with Security Settings.

I have gone into both PowerShell and CMD as an admin and tried "attrib -r +s" and "attrib -r *.*" and both times gotten the message "file not found *.*" .

Most vexing!Are any of the files in use or open that the attribute wouldn't be able to be changed until they are closed?

Have you tried rebooting system and making sure not to open any files in that tree path and then try again in case its some sort of temp file that is thought to still be in use by something?

Are any of the files "PASSWORD protected", which may make changing their attribute a problem.That blob in "read only" is nothing more than just that - a blob. It does NOT mean the folder is read only. Don't ask me why it's there, I don't know - it just is. Bottom line, don't worry about it, you can't get rid of the blob - but it doesn't affect anything.The checkbox is always indeterminate (the blob). It is intended only to allow you to change the read only attribute of files in the folder. It does not reflect the current state of files in said folder. Otherwise, simply showing the properties dialog would require it to go through every single subfolder and file to determine what should be shown in the checkbox.Well whether the Blob indicates FUNCTIONALITY or not, I was unable to batch edit the files within the folders. So I don't know what to say!

Dave: I discovered the issue trying to edit the file names in Ghisler's TOTAL Commander. So I don't know if something else "opened" the files before that or not. None were password protected, as far as I know. I deleted the Hidden files I didn't need, rebooted, and edited one-at-a-time the ones I did, so I can't answer your question with any more detail than that. This has happened in the recent past, with a bunch of files I DL'ed from work... So if it happens again, I will pay closer attention.

Thanks all.

I have Windows 10 64 bit v 1903 os build 18362.778 - kb4549951 - can I install a completely new version of Windows Media Player? I have somehow messed things up by uninstalling whatever WMP I had and now have no trace of WMP anywhere on my PC - just not listed anywhere. All online advice is about reinstalling by using "Turn features on or off" but there is no WMP listed so I'm stumped. I had thought that I could remove WMP completely and start afresh. Any advice appreciated.Windows Media Player is in "Turn Features On Or Off" under "Media Features" (click on the PLUS sign)I already tried that, before my post. On my pc There is no plus sign by Media Features and nothing happens when I click that FEATURE. That's what I mean - there seems to be no way to connect to get anything done via Windows 10. That's why I thought perhaps I could download WMP as a separate, new, program.See if this helps: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/14209/get-windows-media-playerThanks for interest and the link, Allan. Again, before my post, I tried that and WENT through all the settings list = Apps features, Manage Optional Features, Add Feature - then nothing - WMP not listed at all. I don't think it's going to let me get WMP. I used it mainly for music cd management - I'll try another media player.Windows Media Player is part of an upgrade or a standard Windows 10 installation. New installations (or new computers with Windows 10 installed) will also have Media Player installed too. So this will work in both situations.

To remove it, open Cortana and search for "Turn on or off Windows Features". You will see an option at the top:

If you select the top option, you will see a window open up. From here you can expand the "Media Features" section, and uncheck "Windows Media Player"

Then click OK. Media Player will then be removed from your system. You can add it back using the same method.

VLC media player is far better, VLC is the best CHOICE for many people across the globe, and it supports all types of formats and versions at large.

https://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.htmlThanks for further interest - I have now given up on WMP and now have VLC .Happy to hear it If you want to reinstall Windows Media Player, try the following:
Click the Start button, type features, and select Turn Windows features on or off.
Scroll down and expand Media Features, clear the Windows Media Player check box, and click OK.
Restart your device. Windows Media Player should be uninstalled.
Repeat step 1.
Scroll down and expand Media Features, select the Windows Media Player check box, and click OK.
Restart your device. Windows Media player should now be reinstalled.

I hope this helps!
Leo ClarkeYou are resurrecting Posts that are over 6 months old...

When I run the FOLLOWING command (as ADMINISTRATOR)
dism.exe /Online /Cleanup-Image /StartComponentCleanup

the PROCESS runs to a CERTAIN percentage and then gives the following message

Error: 5
Access is denied

I am a Linux user and I recently decided to log into Windows to play some games. However, once I logged in, after a few minutes, the system found the battery to be missing, and both my audio and internet was disabled. I went to DEVICE Manager, and found multiple errors of "This device cannot find enough FREE resources that it can use (Code 12)" across multiple devices, none of which I exactly remember.

Seeing this, I decided to restart which brought to me to an automatic repair screen. I tried startup repair, system restore, and uninstalling updates which all failed. Startup Repair couldn't identify the cause of the problem, System Restore seemed LIKE it was about to start and then abruptly crashed, no matter which restore point I used, and uninstalling updates basically just told me it couldn't be done because of an error (I love how helpful these messages are lol). I also couldn't enter any of the safe modes, all of which brought me back to the automatic repair screen.

I also did an offline scan of my C drive with sfc in the recovery cmd prompt and no integrity violations were found, however doing sfc /verifyonly reported violations. Doing sfc /scannow gave me the "Windows RESOURCE Protection could not perform the requested operation" message. This makes me wonder if the error only comes up when the system is online rather than offline. I also ran dism on the C drive and no errors were found.

Furthermore, I ran the system with boot logging enabled and saw that a bunch of drivers were not being loaded. The ones that striked me the most were the AC adapter drivers. Personally, I believe its a driver error on Windows part since everything works fine for me on Linux but then again I can be wrong.

Also I want to stress that I don't want to reinstall Windows as that is the advice that is most often given when dealing with these errors. I'm willing to take as much time as NEEDED to get to the bottom of this.

Dell Laptop (Alienware Area51)

OK, this issue ALWAYS starts with a warning box appearing during use saying "USB device not recognised" and the Logitech wireless USB Mouse ceasing to work. Then you find the on board laptop keyboard is not working either. Sometimes but rarely this will correct itself while FAULTING. (The mouse works with no issues on another laptop).

Sometimes the Mouse will not reconnect by removal/replacement of the USB dongle, sometimes it will. The laptop pad works without issue all the time.

Sometimes the keyboard will not work again, and only rarely will it restart on a reboot.

More and more frequently the keyboard and mouse are ceasing to work and not recovering on reboot.

While the issue is on, going into the BIOS and moving around menus shows that the keyboard hardware is OK even when it will not work in Windows.

I get out of the issue by using the laptop's keypad and plugging in a remote USB keyboard to get back in past the PIN screen and uninstall the keyboard drivers.

It then will work OK for sometimes many weeks.

For completeness I should add that I run a USB device sometimes (MAYBE once a month) that will not work to the "Better USB Driver", I have to revert the driver. This device and the whole machine then work perfectly OK, but the next Windows Update always changes the driver back to the "Better USB Driver" again. I'm pretty sure that this is not the cause, as the issue can arise regardless of which USB driver is in use.

I'm writing this on that laptop using the onboard keyboard and the mouse after yet again being forced to get back in and remove drivers, and its working perfeectly again.............. for now!

Is there anything I can do on this laptop to better investigate and stop this recurring issue please?

Quote from: bravedan on April 06, 2021, 01:03:24 AM

Dell Laptop (Alienware Area51)

OK, this issue always starts with a warning box appearing during use saying "USB device not recognised" and the Logitech wireless USB Mouse ceasing to work. Then you find the on board laptop keyboard is not working either. Sometimes but rarely this will correct itself while faulting. (The mouse works with no issues on another laptop).

Sometimes the Mouse will not reconnect by removal/replacement of the USB dongle, sometimes it will. The laptop pad works without issue all the time.

Sometimes the keyboard will not work again, and only rarely will it restart on a reboot.

More and more frequently the keyboard and mouse are ceasing to work and not recovering on reboot.

While the issue is on, going into the BIOS and moving around menus shows that the keyboard hardware is OK even when it will not work in Windows.

I get out of the issue by using the laptop's keypad and plugging in a remote USB keyboard to get back in past the PIN screen and uninstall the keyboard drivers.

It then will work OK for sometimes many weeks.

For completeness I should add that I run a USB device sometimes (maybe once a month) that will not work to the "Better USB Driver", I have to revert the driver. This device and the whole machine then work perfectly OK, but the next Windows Update always changes the driver back to the "Better USB Driver" again. I'm pretty sure that this is not the cause, as the issue can arise regardless of which USB driver is in use.

I'm writing this on that laptop using the onboard keyboard and the mouse after yet again being forced to get back in and remove drivers, and its working perfeectly again.............. for now!

Is there anything I can do on this laptop to better investigate and stop this recurring issue please?

I have two Ethernet networked HP LAPTOPS running side by side, both of which were UPGRADED simultaneously to 20H2 with all updates via in-place installs from an ISO created with the Media Creation Tool, copied to both desktops, then mounted and used to do the upgrade. After that was finished, which was accomplished WITHOUT any problems, I the used the same registry script on both machines to change my system font. Here is the script, which I merged into the registry on both machines:

WINDOWS Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Fonts]
"Segoe UI (TrueType)"=""
"Segoe UI Bold (TrueType)"=""
"Segoe UI Bold Italic (TrueType)"=""
"Segoe UI Italic (TrueType)"=""
"Segoe UI Light (TrueType)"=""
"Segoe UI Semibold (TrueType)"=""
"Segoe UI Symbol (TrueType)"=""

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\FontSubstitutes]

"Segoe UI"="Comic Sans MS"

I know the script is good, because on one machine my changed font is working properly everywhere (this machine has other problems after the install which I have asked for help on in another post. On the second machine however, the font substitution doesn't work properly (it worked fine before the upgrade). It changes the font on the desktop OK, but does not change the font in File Explorer. Moreover, I am running the Microsoft Newsbar on both machines, and the one with the font substitution problem changes the font back to Segoe UI as soon as I minimize the Newsbar. If I redo the merge, and either restart or shut down and reboot, the font on the desktop (but not in File Explorer) changes back to Comic Sans and if I minimize the Newsbar the problem reoccurs. I have looked at the Registry Key for FontSubstitutes on both, and both appear correct and identical.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why this happens on one machine only, or suggestions for a fix? This machine doesn't have any of the problems that the other machine suffers from, namely some Gadgets that worked fine before the upgrade won't work now (even though they still work fine on the machine with the font problem) and the notification area COLLAPSING as soon as I attempt to look at a notification- I have set my Show Notifications for to five minutes).

I have Windows 10 and it seems I get an update every few weeks. The update three updates ago did something to my computer and I cannot MAKE it go into sleep MODE. I went to control panel and redid everything, still sleep is not working. What can I do?
The ISSUE is occurring due to outdated or corrupt graphics card driver.

You may also update the graphic card driver from Device Manager manually and check if this helps.

Press (Windows key + X) and click on “Device Manager”.
Expand “Display Adaptor”.
Right click on the graphic card driver and select “Update Driver Software”. Once this is done, restart the computer and check, if it works.

Dear Users
My laptop has biscuit HARD disk it is dead I cannot find it in market. Can I install WINDOWS in SD card provided in my laptop as card reader??It can be DONE but why would you, If the drive is no longer available is there not an adapter you could use or perhaps put an ssd in the DVD drive bay. I have yet to find a drive INTERFACE that is so custom you can't find a replacement.Installing Windows on an SD card in a reader would result in abysmal performance. SD cards are entirely too slow to use as an OS drive.

You would also need to jump thru some hoops to install Windows since the installer will not install the OS on a removable drive.

I've Just been reinstalling windows every few weeks or so for the last several months, but I'm kind of tired of resets and now it wont even boot the first time I restart after installing. I literally just got a 240GB SSD, put it in, installed and updated, and windows ran into an error and cant continue. I often end up running a live Ubuntu flash drive because I don't want to deal with windows. Does it have to do with secure boot or something? Maybe there's a way to factory reset my HP bios? I'm beyond frustrated right now, as this is one of many computer issues i'm having lately. Various linux distros run fine.

HP Elitebook 840 G1
~Any Windows 10 .iso I boot from USB or DVDI'd swap out that SSD with a HDD or another SSD if you have one and build it fresh and see if the problem is related to just that 240GB SSD as it might have failed.

Also what is the Eternal Death Slayer links you have on your webpage? And they appear to be all broken when checking out the links.Hi can you go into the bios
Security menu:
Administrator Password (remove the password)
Power-On Password (remove the password)
Intel Software Guard Extensions (SGX) (turn this off until you GET windows loaded and booting.)
TPM Device: Disable the TPM device, you need to clear the TPM entries first.
TPM State should show disabled
Clear TPM: Clear the TPM entries

In boot options disable secure boot you may need to turn off uefi boot first

In a Laptop like your one if the TPM security is enabled the hard drive is encryted and the laptop will only work with devices you add to the TPM list. So when you put a different drive, it will detect ok but won't be able to load windows. You can re enable the tpm and secure boot Intel Software Guard Extensions (SGX) after windows is loaded and working.

As of right now, it is working. The steps I took are:
-In BSOD>Other Options>Troubleshoot PC>Reset (basically clean install)
-Turn off updates (for as long as possible, likely to be permanently disabled)

This may not be a proper fix, as it will not update (btw, does this include critical security updates?). I will be following lisa's instructions later on today.

I installed my must-have software, CLONED the 240GB SSD to a 500GB HDD using a 2-bay dock, and switched them (HDD in the laptop, SSD in an external enclosure for a portable edition). Still so far so good.

As for a little CLARITY how this started, the device was abused and the original HDD failed. I replaced it with a new HDD and it was fine. I set up an ubuntu dual boot (likely a big factor), and after windows updated again it would only hang at the spinning circle, or just as "welcome user"/login screen appears. Since then the only way it seems to remain functional is to have updates turned off. So yes, the problem persists with all of my HDD's as well. That's not why I ordered the SSD, but I did think to try it out before any other files were put on it.

Eternal Death Slayer was a text-based batch file RPG I began about 12 years ago. I was 16, .bat's were still alive, and I wasnted push to see how big I could make an RPG using CMD Prompt. Worked on it for 2 years, but unfortunately it's been lost here and depricated from all of the free file servers it was uploaded to. If any old members here have ancient hard drives with random trash and would please send me a version, I'd be absolutely delighted... by the end of my time developing it, had about 5 towns to visit, multi-colored screens with primitive text based graphics (using ctext.exe), theme music and a few sound effects(forget what .exe that was, i found it when playing another batch rpg about a time-cop?), and I think i was beginning work on a farm-type aspect, where you come back every 6 hours or day or whatever to collect money from your farms to help buy better equipment. I was also trying to figure out how to use a ftp to upload a text file to some simple ftp server, and download other text files from the server, probably 30-60 second intervals. This would enable simple online multiplayer. That was beyond my skill level then.

EDIT: Yuck, just read some of my old posts and cringed half to death... even the ones from this year.Hi again,

At least your elite book has USB3.0 and a charging port which should run the SSD ok in an external case. Not a great idea to use on a USB2.0 port and DON"T just unplug it without using the safe to disconnect.

Most SSD's draw over an amp at 5 Volts which is right on the limit of USB power. Also laptops often put the USB to sleep to save battery, this can be when the ssd is doing miniatous and cause data loss. If you want an external SSD then you are better to use one manufactured as a USB drive not one you assemble yourself.

If you want to run other operating systems along side Windows 10 consider running them as Virtual machines.

Windows 10 pro 64bit has Hyperv to handle this
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/virtualization/hyper-v-on-windows/about/
Shortly after my last comment, my 1TB internal drive died :/ So the SSD is now probably a permanent fixture in this laptop. Going to try to buy mostly SSD in the future, hopefully grab another M.2 soon too. I can disable USB sleep features in the BIOS right? Im thinking thats what I did, or my powered hub keeps it on long enough to close...

Any cautions on running a Windows to Go on a flash drive? SD card? Or doing backups of important data to either? I like the idea of having an array of 256GB or 512GB MicroSD's as either PRIMARY or backup locations.

I am hoping to get started developing drivers for Windows 10. I can START working on them now, but in order to be able to debug them, I understand that I need to be using a checked build of Windows.

There has been some discussion on this:

Where can I get Windows checked build? - Answered 2010
Where can I find the debug symbols Windows 10? - Answered 2015
Where can I get checked builds for Windows 10? - Answered 2016
These answers all seem a bit outdated. I say this, because they all mention an absence of a checked build released by MICROSOFT. However, the MSDN article on installing the checked build -- which is updated more recently than these answers -- EXPLAINS (or at least tries to) how to get the checked build.Quote from: Franciscos on May 18, 2020, 10:36:49 PM

I am hoping to get started developing drivers for Windows 10. I can start working on them now, but in order to be able to debug them, I understand that I need to be using a checked build of Windows.

There has been some discussion on this:
mykfcexperience MyPrepaidCenter
Where can I get Windows checked build? - Answered 2010
Where can I find the debug symbols Windows 10? - Answered 2015
Where can I get checked builds for Windows 10? - Answered 2016
These answers all seem a bit outdated. I say this, because they all mention an absence of a checked build released by Microsoft. However, the MSDN article on installing the checked build -- which is updated more recently than these answers -- explains (or at least tries to) how to get the checked build.

Checked builds were available on older versions of Windows, before Windows 10 version 1803. USE tools such as Driver Verifier and GFlags to check driver code in later versions of Windows.

I'm not quite sure I'm in the right area but here goes. My wife's PC (HP) keeps continuously loading after starting up. The PC started out with windows 8, then to 8.1 and now the latest version of 10. It's been upgraded to 10 for several years so what has changed has me puzzled. I can access the net and surf OK but the PC continues to peck away staying busy. I'm talking never stops, not just a long time.Does it stop when you're just OPENING programs with no internet connection?Quote from: SUPERDAVE on March 31, 2021, 05:05:46 PM

Does it stop when you're just opening programs with no internet connection?

Where or how do I find the Update SETTINGS. I want it CHANGED to update only when I tell it to do so.What updates ? ?My goof up. I want to control WIN 10 updates.Hi
The first part of this webpage explains how to control windows updates https://www.windowscentral.com/how-stop-updates-installing-automatically-windows-10
Thank you Just what I needed.1. Click the START button.
2. Click the Settings button on the left side of the start menu.
3. Click Update and Security.
4. Click Advanced Options.
5. Make SURE Automatic is chosen.

Is it ok to restart Windows 10 while the update in the settings app says "installing: 58%" for example? Wondering if maybe its STUCK or something cause its been a while and if restarting would help, however, computer 101 is dont restart obv. FIGURE, though, that in this instance it might not be bad since restarting windows natively while its updating in the background. COULDNT find relevant INFO online.Yes, it's okay.

I've just STARTED using my new rig with Windows 10. I'm coming from a Windows 7 Pro PC so I'm still getting used to the new interface. I'm setting my PC to save my data on a SEPARATE D: drive. But what about new apps. Is it suggested to save those on the C: Drive with the OS files?Mostly it's a personal preference but I install all my apps to the C: drive for several REASONS. First of all, my C: drive is an SSD (D: is a spinner) so my apps will load faster. Also, even if you install apps on the D: drive, some of the required files for the app will still be installed on the C: drive. There will also be registry entries made (registry exists on C:). That means that your apps are actually installed spread across 2 drives. I would rather have the apps contained on a single drive. As strollin said, personal preference. PERSONALLY, I have multiple partitions on all of my systems and try to keep C: drive only for the OS, my AV, and ONE or two other "key" apps. Everything else is installed on other partitions. I prefer to keep they system partition as small as possible. But hey, that's me - there is little if any advantage to one way or the other.

Hi there.

I recently purchased a refurbished HP 8300 pc that has a new 120GB SSD DRIVE with Windows 10 on it and a 500GB HDD drive.

Thus far I have only downloaded Zoom, Skype and LibreOffice and created a few documents.

This PC shows Local Disc C and new volume F.

Novice questions: Can I/Do I need to PARTITION the C drive to separate the operating system from future downloads? Can I/do I need to back up the operating system to the HDD drive and if so do I need to partition it first?

Thank you.well, it's always a GOOD idead (if you can, of course) that you separate os partition and data partition. if something goes wrong, you just format/replace system but data remains on other partition/disk.
In your case...i would just redirect the user folder to be on f disk (500 gb) or just redirect documents/picture folder to f disk. and backup that folder(s). It is option to backup image of system but you must do that PERIODICALLY (on 1 week) because if you do it just occassionally, sometimes the image gets "old". When you restore the image, it may need some time to download all the new updates, drivers etc etc.
There are many free programs to do just backup of folders or backup of system drive completely. I USE easeus todo free. Mainly to do daily / weekly backups of my documents/pictures folder to NAS drive.

For the second time I have been ABLE to boot normally after a BSOD, if I chose the proffered Safe MODE option first. What magic can Safe Mode be applying ?Why are you starting a 2nd TOPIC ? ?...there are replies in your 1st one.

Topic closed.