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lol the second one is like dissing apple

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http://windows.istheshit.net/

Dilbert, I think your own LINK is broken.

When i start up my computer it goes to a disk check saying it needs to check for consistancy. The type of file it says its checking is Fat32. While its doing the check, some things come up saying that some of my temperary internet files are cross-linked to units. If there is any way i can stop the cross-linking, PLEASE send me a reply at [highlight][emailprotected][/highlight]. Thank youWelcome to the CH forums.

Someone will be able to help you but first you must give some info about your system, like what your OS is, what your file system is, what your hardware configuration is, are you using a laptop or desktop, what manufacturer :-?. What are the exact error/advisory messages being displayed :-? What happened just prior to this condition appearing :-?

The more info you give the better chance of a cure.

The OS is Windows Xp Home Editon 2002 Version Service pack 2. As for the file system, if I understand what you're asking RIGHT it is an 18.6 gigabyte hard drive. Im not at all sure what the hardware config. is, because im not the best with computers (hence why I need help with this). This is a desktop PC, with different installed parts, build by my cousin build for my uncle. The message wasnt an error message, it just said that one of my "disks had to be checked for consistancy. The type of file is Fat32." We had just re-installed our OS for about the 5th time due to viruses put on here by phishing, and the computer started to freeze occasionally. At first I thought nothing of it, but as it started to freeze more often I tried clearing out some of the games and files that were unused and unimportant. But, the freezing continued. The thing I'm really asking here is; what is cross-linking and how can I prevent it in the future. Again my email is [highlight][emailprotected][/highlight]. Thnak you.Left click Start - My Computer

Right click on your hard drive (usually Local Disk C)

Left click Properties

Your file system type will be displayed - usually NTFS or Fat32

Cross-linking usually refers to links on web pages.

Did you delete the existing Windows folder prior to reinstalling XP or did you format the C: partition :-? Do you have more than one partition :-? Have you run any anti-malware programs such as Spybot or AdAware etc :-? Do you run any anti-virus program or firewall :-?

You're gonna have to tell us exactly what you did, when and why and what happened. Most important that you post the precise error/advisory message which is displayed.

It's not good practice to post a QUERY on a forum and expect a response via e-mail and it's certainly not good practice to post your e-mail address.

Unless you need more offers for *censored*, fake Rolex watches or sinancial opportunities from Nigeria. The file system is FAT32. None of the files,folders or anything else were deleted prior to the re-installation. We do not run anti-malware programs but we do use AVG anti-virus protection. The only thing we did, was notice that this computer had many, many viruses on it that werent being deleted from it, so we re-installed our OS. Upon doing so, we started noticing that the computer WOULD lock up frequently. After restarting the computer how it shouldnt be done, we got the message that one of our disks needed to be checked for consistancy. It said the file system was FAT32. During the check, some things it would find was temperary internet files were cross linked to units on my computer. Again, I dont know what that means but I would like to know at least how to keep it from doing so. As for posting my email on here, Its just about the only way people can get ahold of me. If you have an answer to this, please get back to me through either here or email, either way doesnt matter. It would be much appreciated. Thank you.Well, if you just reinstalled Windows on top of the problem you will still have the same problem. You need to run some antispyware software. An antivirus is not enough UNFORTUNATELY. If the machine is not clean, then all bets are off.

You also need to run the free diagnostics from the appropriate drive maker's site. The cross linked files may indicate a failing hard drive, improper shutdowns, etc. Running Scandisk in safe mode is another great idea.Okay. I thank you for you cooperation. I will try everything you just said, and if nothing works, I will post another answer of what it's saying.We'll leave the light on.

Quote

Maybe its the disembodied HEAD >.>

Patio:
Send it to MyRealName, Myaddresshere, mytownname, myareacode, mystate, USA

Great JOB, Doc!
You stay around in the Microsoft sections, right?

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Quote

Thanks for the advice, bro.

Yeah, giving what i've got still MAKES me high. It's the meaning of life.

8-)

Can I have £100 please?

Congrats, Doc!

Patio:
Send it to MyRealName, Myaddresshere, mytownname, myareacode, mystate, USA

Great job, Doc!
You stay around in the Microsoft sections, right?

Here is my problem. A while ago I had a vcr TAPE with a home movie on it. I wanted to load it onto my COMPUTER so I got some kind of card for my computer that allowed me to plug my vcr into it and save it to my computer. The proble I am now having is I am trying to burn it to a disc so I can play it other than on my desk top. The disk will play from my desk top but will not play on my lap top. What am I doing wrong. Is there a WAY to change the dvd format to SOMETHING else I can use?It's likely that the movie file you have on your computer is one that is only supported by the computer. Some earlier DVD players and even some newer DVD players cannot play DVD movies that are in a specific codec, ie: DivX, AviX, or any other special codec. You'll likely need to convert the movie file into a codec your DVD understands or convert the file into a DVD movie.

What is the file extension of the movie file (ie, does it end with .avi, .wmv, ETC.) and/or do you know what codec it is in?

emachines are evil abominations.. the only thing i would want to do is blow one up.

I use Windows 98 and have a dial-up CONNECTION. I only go online to read my email via Netscape. Lately I notice that when I try to open my email program it freezes immediately and it takes 25-30 seconds to "unfreeze." I barely have time to read EVEN one message before the screen freezes once again. This is quite disruptive. Any advice is appreciated.
Thank you.

jandal :-?PLEASE post your system specs, and what type of malware protection software you have.fffreak:

Sorry I was so vague in my description. Here is more information...I have an Intel Pentium 166 MHz w/MMX computer that uses Windows 98, 2nd edition and has 64.0 MB RAM. It is approx. 9 years old. I use my ISP (Earthlink) only for dial-up connection and read my email at Netscape (AOL). My email program freezes on me when I try to read messages but my connection is unaffected. If this continues I'll need to report the problem to EITHER Earthlink or someone else. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

jandal :-?This is to notify all of you that I have turned the problem over to my ISP.
Thank you.

jandal

Best of Luck to you Rob....hope it works out.Thanks, dudes. SORRY if I'm late, but congratulations, good luck and I hope it all GOES well for you.Quote from: Calum on April 03, 2007, 03:03:17 AM

Sorry if I'm late, but congratulations, good luck and I hope it all goes well for you.

Quote from: Calum on April 03, 2007, 03:03:17 AM

Sorry if I'm late, but congratulations, good luck and I hope it all goes well for you.

Shame on you for being late...deduct 30 web credits immediately...

Hi,
I have a data base that contains billing information and notes for each work ORDER inside an excel file. The billing section has some SIMPLE formulas to calculate costs and then I have a simple section that deals with notes dealing with that project. Each worksheet contains information on that project. The problem is that I have run out of room in that particular file. I can't add any more pages so now I have to start a new file. If I need to do a keyword search to find a project I have to now start doing the search on more than one file. I want to be able to search all the worksheets in all the files. How can I do it? I don't want to start an Access database. THANKS

billWhen you LAUNCH Excel and then click on the Open icon, the Open dialog PANEL shows a button called Tools to the top right. Click on it, select Search, and enter your search criteria. Will that work for you? Thanks man. It worked. I wish it worked better. When you are inside a workbook and do a search on a cell the list remains up as it goes from cell to cell no matter which page it is on. This takes a little more time to find the right file you are looking for, but it does work.

I use Windows 98 and have a dial-up connection. When I try to forward an email message I lose my connection and have to connect again. Sometimes I'm not even able to save the email I'm trying to forward. Any tips on what could be causing me to lose my connection?
Thank you. :-?

JandalAre you using Outlook Express for your email?Dear Fed:

I am using Netscape to access my email. I click a Connect To Internet icon on my desktop and then double-click Email icon, which takes me into Netscape. Recently the program has started freezing up on me when I try to delete a message and sometimes before I can even read it. The dial-up connection will disappear from the screen and then I am forced to connect again. I would appreciate any help anyone can OFFER me to solve this annoying problem. Thank you.

jandalSounds like an issue to raise with your ISP. Do you ever lose your connection at other times, i.e. other than when accessing your email?Soybean...
I only lose my dial-up connection when I am accessing my email. I do NOTHING else online. The problem is getting worse. Today when I tried reading my emails I lost the connection before I was able to finish. I am still hoping for a quick-fix solution or I may need to report the problem to my ISP and have them check the connection. What do you think?

jandal I believe the problem may be that your ISP does not have the capacity to serve all their customers without such interruptions. The fact that the problem is getting worse may be due to an expanding customer BASE without a corresponding increase in capacity to serve all those customers. I think you should contact them and complain about the disconnections.

If you get no satisfaction from dealing with them on this issue, I suggest looking for another ISP. I recently got my mother, who is on dialup, to switch to Earthlink's dialup service and she's pleased with it. If you'd like to see whether they have a tool-free dialup number in your area (are you in the U.S.?), go to https://myaccount.earthlink.net/cam/accessnumber.jspJust out of curiosity, is someone else in your household trying to use the phone while you are on line? If someone picks up an extension it will kill a 56K connection.I am thisclose to calling my ISP (Earthlink) to help solve this problem. I am starting to doubt that the trouble lies with my dial-up connection. I usually go online only to access my email but today I surfed the Web. The connection stayed on for the entire time. However, when I opened my email in Netscape the program froze for approx. 25-30 seconds. Then it unfroze and I was able to read a message. But this lasted only for a matter of seconds. This problem of the email program freezing and then unfreezing is very disruptive. Yet I do not lose my dial-up connection. Any thoughts on a possible solution? I thank you all for trying to help me.

jandalI have TURNED the matter over for my ISP to solve.
Thank you.

jandal

I run window xp pro, INTEL PENTIUM 4, 2.66ghz
The problem I'm having is whenever I watch a window media video or any video off the internet I lose my sound drivers and have to re-install them. Can someone PLEASE help me with this or at least give me some suggestions. Thank you.My suggestion is to post a LOT of information about your system and software.I run Windows XP Pro, Intel Pentium 4, CPU 2.66 GHz
RealTek AC97 Audio, 2 Gigs of ram, Asus motherboard
Radeon 1650 pro video card. I hope this info helps. I'm not really sure what other information you might need to help me with this. ThanksVirus and Spyware protection? Has it always been this way, or what hapened prior to this? Have you CHECKED for updated sound drivers on the Asus SITE?

Hi,

A person I know has a LAP top that just stopped working. The lap top is a little old and may have problems but I do not have the information to GET into details. All I know is that when an attempt is made to TURN on the lap top, there is a black screen and you hear:

BEEP....Beep beep beep...Beep.

And the screen remains black. Does anyone have any ideas as to some possible ways to get it working again?

Thanks in advance.No screen and beeps...perhaps the drive itself or one of the add on cards is not seated properly.

What kind of laptop is this and has it been dropped recently ? ?It's an IBM and hasn't be dropped.

I just realized that the beeps are apparently a code, I double checked and the code I am hearing is 1331, I believe.

It's actually:

Beep [pause] 3 beeps [pause] 3 beeps [pause] beep[url=http://From our Warehouse of Knowledge...]

I have an Intel Pentium 166MHz w/MMX that uses Windows 98, 2nd edition and has 64 MB RAM. To access my email, I click a Connect To Internet desktop icon, then an Email icon. This takes me directly into Netscape (AOL?) and I read my email messages there. A friend suggests that I should switch to using Outlook Express instead. Can someone tell me how to set up OE as my email program? Would this CAUSE any problems with my computer? I really need help. Thank you.

jandal :-/"If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Keep that in mind before you decide to USE OE.2k_dummy:

In a way, I think "it is broke" because Netscape (AOL?) has been freezing up on me lately when I am trying to access my emails. A friend says changing is as simple as opening OE, going to Tools, Accounts, then ADD, Mail, and following the Internet Connection Wizard. Have you had trouble with OE? If so, what other email program would you recommend? I hope someone can help me because this is a real problem.

jandal Just my personal opinion here. OE SUCKS! Netscape mail has had problems ever since AOL bought them out. Can you set up a POP3 account or use a different mail provider?A second opinion:
OE is the program I use, and I think its fine.

If you want to use Outlook Express, you need your POP3 or STMP settings.

Once you get those, go into Outlook, and click Tools, Accounts

In Accounts create a new POP3 account
and load it up
and your doneQuote

2k_dummy:

In a way, I think "it is broke" because Netscape (AOL?) has been freezing up on me lately when I am trying to access my emails. A friend says changing is as simple as opening OE, going to Tools, Accounts, then Add, Mail, and following the Internet Connection Wizard. Have you had trouble with OE? If so, what other email program would you recommend? I hope someone can help me because this is a real problem.

jandal

I am NOT trying to circumvent any form of copy protection. I am just trying to make a copy of a disk for my own personal use and as a backup. This is not commercial software that will be copied.

The problem I am having and need help with is. How to make copies of a read only DVD memorial disk from the wake/funeral of my mother. The funeral home does give you the first copy, as part of the funeral costs. Then they sell copies, but that is costly. The disk contains old pictures/photographs, printed documents, LETTERS sent to her, etc. And has a music background. The disk does not play on the computer, but plays fine on DVD player. It has two folders on it one is AUDIO the other is video. I have TRIED diskcopy, copy E drive, various copying programs, some being, DVD Fab, DVD shrink, Ashampoo Burning Studio. But all seemed to come up with a read error of one kind or another. And will not allow me to make a copy. I look forward to someone being able to give me some kind of answer that will allow me to copy the memorial disk. Any help I can get would be very much appreciated.
Quote from: edwardmc47 on August 28, 2010, 08:56:08 AM

I am NOT trying to circumvent any form of copy protection.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on August 26, 2010, 09:12:10 AM

Microsoft Encarta is wrong- or at least, inaccurate to some degree.

Sorry, I have made a mistake.

[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(2)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Dosl" /fastdetect
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(1)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Windows XP Professional" /fastdetect
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Windows 7" /fastdetect


That should help you out now

Sorry, I have made a mistake.

[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(2)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Dosl" /fastdetect
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(1)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Windows XP Professional" /fastdetect
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Windows 7" /fastdetect

That should help you out now

Okay, I really need some help.

I play a lot of the GAME, Sims 2 and it does go into full screen when you open it.

I also write a lot on my laptop.

The problem is, every time I go into full screen mode on games or youtube, my computer takes me BACK to my desktop. Same THING with typing. I'll be in the MIDDLE of typing a message, and the cursor and TYPE bar on the screen will just disappear.

I am quite good with computers, and I have checked everything that would be related with this.

Can anyone please help? Quote from: kzcynder on August 21, 2010, 05:50:06 PM

The problem is, every time I go into full screen mode on games or youtube, my computer takes me back to my desktop.

h,mmm.i know im being really reckless but i cant help it.i watched this VIDEO "know your meme:Weegee"anywyas it wasnt in the video but i saw ANOTHER LINK to another video.it said if i WATCH it ILL get a computer crashing "weegee" virus.i guess what im asking is if this thing is real and is it realy that bad.It's doubtful. What website is it?There's no such thing as the "weegee virus". It is just part of the "meme".

Hi there. At one point, I could actually see my IPHONE listed when I WOULD click on My Computer, and could have saved my PHOTOS to my HARD DRIVE, but now it won't show up at all. Any ideas? Thanks.

Guyz can you give me a EXAMPLE of a copyleft software other than Linux?.
Maybe atleast 3 examples. Do we get a grade for your homework too?It's not for my homework but I have my report on it...Quote from: padz535 on September 02, 2010, 06:18:22 PM

It's not for my homework but I have my report on it...

Are you doing this at home?

This may sound like a dumb question but I have to ask anyway. If you own an OEM desktop COMPUTER like Gateway, Dell, Acer, whatever, and you want to upgrade the motherboard in it, are you allowed to install an OEM copy of Windows onto it, if you purchase a new copy?

With a new/different motherboard, it's pretty much a new-build, isn't it ?http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/235074-34-attn-difference-vista-retail-license

Don't know if it applies to XP but I'm fairly certain it is the same for win7.

IE: the OEM license you already have is non-transferable. If you can get a "fresh" OEM disk then it will have a different key that is not yet tied to anything.

Strictly speaking, there are really several different kinds of Windows Disks. For windows XP, at least, there is:

You've got Full, Upgrade, OEM Branded, OEM unbranded

Full Retail: most EXPENSIVE, can be moved from machine to machine. (just MAKE sure you uninstall then reinstall, and re-activate. You may need to call Microsoft for re-activation)!!

Upgrade: Requires a previous Windows OS, such as Windows 98, NT4, or 95. Can only be moved from machine to machine as long as the previous OS you "tied" it to (I don't think it actually remembers, but it's a licensing thing) isn't used. For example, if you have a copy of Windows 98 and a copy of windows 95, and you want to install Windows XP from an upgrade disk, you can use either one of the disks to "validate" the install (to allow you to continue) but ti my understanding the XP upgrade is more an amendment to the EULA for the original OS- that is, you could now use either the windows 95 copy or the windows 98 copy, but you couldn't use both, because legally the upgrade is "using up" the copy of one of them you own. (you could install using the windows 98 disk, and then later use windows 98, and then "legally" you still are fine because you have a copy of the also-eligible windows 95).

OEM Branded. Comes installed with a new BC (Branded OEM). Functionally identical to unbranded OEM (excepting of course the preinstalled crap that comes with a branded install). Can only be installed on One machine, after that, even if you have a fire or a complete system failure and need t oget a new machine, you'll have to buy a new copy of windows, as well. Of course you cannot "move" the install either (which would be difficult anyway since most OEM branded installations are actually recovery disks)

OEM unbranded is pretty similar to OEM branded, except it isn't associated with a specific- well, brand.
thanks, I think I found what I was looking for... from here:

http://arstechnica.com/hardware/news/2007/01/8730.ars

Quote

OEM software is also tied to the motherboard it is first installed on. Unlike the retail versions of Windows which can be transferred to a new computer, OEM versions are not transferable. What about upgrading hardware? Microsoft says that anything is fair game, except the motherboard. Replacing the motherboard in a computer results in a "new personal computer," which the company considers to be SYNONYMOUS with a transfer. It's not permitted with an OEM edition of Windows

Hoe can I BACK-up all the information on my computer including the OS. I am GOING to install vista on my computer but if i change my mind later i need to be able to go back to WINDOWS 7 and have all my files and stuff still there.You need disk imaging software.I use and recommend Acronis True IMAGE...but it's not Free.

For a Free solution i would recommend Macrium Reflect...Quote from: patio on September 02, 2010, 06:50:07 AM

I use and recommend Acronis True Image...but it's not Free.

For a Free solution i would recommend Macrium Reflect...

Does anybody know what a "nuke" is when talking about hacking\website ATTACKS? I've been threatened by somebody and i need to know what it is and how to block it. please Not sure, but I assume it's a DOS attack.Quote from: stewie0888 on August 30, 2010, 03:14:08 PM

Does anybody know what a "nuke" is when talking about hacking\website attacks? I've been threatened by somebody and i need to know what it is and how to block it. please

I'm sure your fine. Nobody who calls it that can do anything.

I agree with kpac and BC, but just to be safe, make sure you firewall and av program is up to date.

If it's against a website is known as a DDoS (Distributed denial of service), setting up a number of bots on varies other people's computers (victims) and remotely or automatically having those send requests to the website in order to overload it and cripple it.

'Nuke' could be this DoS or attacking via PHP, Javascript, etc, and exploit inherent limitations of networking. The name is used mostly by scripts which 'bomb-bared' a website or computer with requests, packets, injections or loopbacks.

Black Ice Firewall is old protection, but can bounces the attack back at the bots (not the actual hacker), in turn crashing the victim's computer rather than the server.

Varies other firewalls don't believe in affecting those who might be stupid and unaware of what their infected computer is doing right under their noses, so simply temporary block the IP addresses of those computer(s). Normally any network attack attempt will be blocked for 30-60mins, then repeat if continues, leaving the server rather unaffected by the issue.

Packet rules are added to prevent easy attacks like endless echo reply loops, DNS rewrites, etc.

Websites have one or more '.htaccess' files on their server, you can write rules in to block out Common Exploits and Bad User Agents, etc.

Keeping your virus scanner, ensure you have a good firewall, and updating your operating system with the latest patchs helps block these exploits.

How to be an administrator when we have a limited account???Can't.
Talk to the Owner of the machine...How to be a puppy when all we have is a pet cat???And with DOS?Quote from: HP2 on September 01, 2010, 03:49:58 PM

And with DOS?

And with DOS?

Puppies aren't DOS compatible.

And bears?

maybe, with a patch installed:

Everytime I run a scan its tells me I have over 500 registry errors. Every registry clean software I download only fixes a few errors and wants me to buy the software to fix the rest. Does anyone know where I can download a good safe totally free registry clean that will fix all my errors? Thanks............No such thing as a good registry cleaner. Just stop running scans and find something else to worry about Ok, I was just checking everything because my computer is beginning to run slow. Got worried when I seen all the registry errors and they said my computer was at a high risk. I shouldn't worry about all those errors then?Where did you see those registry errors and what was exact message?Programs like that are nothing but a scam.
Read here: http://miekiemoes.blogspot.com/2008/02/registry-cleaners-and-system-tweaking_13.htmlQuote from: Allan on June 13, 2010, 04:29:49 PM

No such thing as a good registry cleaner.

That's the typical response from almost of the experts here, and I'll take their word for it, but it makes me wonder why can't someone develop a registry cleaner that really works?

but it makes me wonder why can't someone develop a registry cleaner that really works?

Actually, I'll be willing to bet, a high percentage, if not the majority of average computer users don't even know the registry exists.

End BC registry rant #.. what is it now? 5?

But there are times when you need to go into the registry and change something.

There are many registry fix programs, but free ones are seldom seen. I use the one at hxxp://www.registrycleaner-free.com/
If interested, you can have a try.

That's because someone at WOT probably tried that reg cleaner.

That's because someone at WOT probably tried that reg cleaner....

This not breaking news, so I put it here.
Quote

Alex Williams
May 28th, 2013
Microsoft is MOVING its botnet protection group to the cloud to provide NEAR real-time information about known malware infections starting to SURFACE. Microsoft is making the NEW program available to Internet Service PROVIDERS (ISPs) and computer emergency response teams (CERT) who are responsible for monitoring malware and other threats in their organizations.

Once again you have confused the context of another news story...

Not very many, if the following quote is true.
Quote

Who is still using windows 98
In 2007 it was 1%. In 2008, the last year reported, it dropped to 0.1%.

Every NHS hospital, doctors surgery, dentist i've ever been in, in the UK

Hi

When I download videos from Youtube using REALPLAYER downloader, most recently the Miley Cyrus VMA video, the sound quality is great, but the video is FUZZY especially around the faces. I am running Windows Vista, what can I do to improve the quality of the videos?


Thanks!


-cinque8
There is no way to improve the quality of any Miley Cyrus video...Quote from: patio on August 28, 2013, 12:13:35 AM

There is no way to improve the quality of any Miley Cyrus video...

By the way, what is "twerking"?

A random collection of letters? It almost looks like a word...

This is what my Twitter homepage has looked like through my home network for about the PAST 24 hours since the recent Syrian hack on the website. My desktop (Windows 7, Chrome), laptop(Windows 7, Chrome), and Wii all look the same through my home network. Other networks I've tried like my university look just fine. My internet is provided by AT&T U-Verse High Speed internet and I have tried cleaning my registry and browser cache as well as resetting my router.

[recovering disk space, ATTACHMENT DELETED by admin]Have you tried a browser other than Chrome?Quote from: Allan on August 28, 2013, 03:26:59 PM

Have you tried a browser other than Chrome?

Was looking at labor day deals on newegg and this AMD Radeon 64GB RAMDisk got my attention. I thought that AMD created their own RAMDisk from scratch and was going to buy it to try it out, but first decided to check it out and look to see what google had on it as to if it was good or junk software with problems, since AMD has versions for 4GB, 6GB, 32GB, and 64GB RAMDisk creation.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832385001

To my surprise AMD is promoting software written by DataRam. I have already used the RAMDisk software from DataRam, the free version with a 4GB limitation, and its really sweet in how fast anything in this RAMDisk can Read/Write. But my most powerful system only has 8GB of RAM, so I decided not to buy it because its not a completely different RAMDisk software, its the same as DataRam's RAMDisk, just unlocked or a different version to support creating RAMDisks up to 64GB in size. Had I had a system with more than 64GB of RAM, then it would be a sweet deal, but with only 8GB of RAM, I am going to continue to use the free version with limit of 4GB RAMDisk allocation size a little longer.

Had it been AMD's creation, I probably would have picked it up to check out its features and save it for 4 or 5 years from now when I can afford, as well as make use of a system with greater than 64GB of RAM to allocate a large chunk of it to RAMDisk purpose and have games that load in say 1 second vs 10 seconds ETC. *Personally my new build with 8GB RAM has plenty of memory even if a 4GB block of the 8GB is allocated for RAMDisk with just 4GB of DDR3 left for Windows 7 64-bit and games etc. Its too bad that the games that really need the RAMDisk for speed 99% of them wont fit within 4GB so I haven't been able to use my 4GB RAMDisk as much as I would like to for gaming.

AMD's link below

http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_4.0.php

is same software as

http://memory.dataram.com/products-and-services/software/ramdisk

Just with AMD's name (seal of approval) on it.RAM disks are a waste of RAM.+ 1...Quote from: BC_Programmer on August 29, 2013, 04:45:50 PM

RAM disks are a waste of RAM.

+ 1...

Couldn't disagree more, personally...Windows does a generally good job of caching reads and writes using RAM, but a RAMdisk goes way beyond that.

Even with a decent SSD, loading files or programs from a RAMdisk at say 8GB/sec speeds is a vast improvement.

Well, first, you've got two huge problems. The first is that a RAM drive will always be blank when you create it by definition; and the second is that everything on a RAM drive is lost the second power is cut from the system. No backups, no recovery- they just dribble away. In terms of Running Programs off an SSD, this means that you will usually need to install or at least copy the installation of the program from a hard disk before you run it from the RAM Drive. if you change configuration options, That application better be saving it's configuration onto the hard drive. In fact it ought to be storing most of it's persistent data on the hard drive. The only benefit you get from a RAM drive is that code and data segments load from the Executable and any Libraries it uses, except for Windows Libraries.

You get very little benefit from this.

The only gain would be if the Actual Data that said application loads; for example, levels, textures, etc. from Disk, were on said RAM drive.

First, you need ALL that data to be on the RAM drive. You cannot only put a part of it on there because you would need to move the entire installation folder over. using Crysis as an Example, that's a little under 8GB of Data you would need; which means you would need at least a 8GB RAM Drive. 4GB would be useless, because you couldn't fit the entire installation on it; and if you didn't use a full install, it would be accessing the DVD for that data making the parts you use the RAM drive for entirely offset by the slow Optical Drive access times. Also, Because of the way most games work, you will need to actually Install them to that RAM drive, or at least install them once, make an image of that RAM drive, and restore it each time you start the system.

What this means is that the RAM pages occupied by the RAM drive are discardable- and can get swapped to the pagefile! That completely defeats the purpose, and basically just turns the RAM Drive into a special superfetch cache that only works for some files and only when you access them on a specific not-real drive letter.

One common usage for RAM drives is to make a RAM drive of some size, and them redirect %TEMP% and %TMP% there. Hooray! Super speedy temporary file access.

OK, so if you have something to copy data to the RAMdisk, work on it, then move it back...problem solved?

Steam Mover creates symlinks to the folders it moves, so I could move a game to the RAM disk, play it, all the temporary data and anything contained within that folder is saved to the RAM disk, then when I'm finished with it, Steam Mover can move it back.

Apart from the massive read and write speeds. Fair enough, you still have to do one read and one write from and to the normal storage medium, but in between those, you have huge speeds.

This is what would make sense - the entire game or program folder loaded into the drive, rather than bits and pieces.

Again, Steam Mover resolves this, you can install the program anywhere you like, use Steam Mover to move it, then move it back when you don't want it on the RAM disk any longer.

Also, several RAM disk suites let you save the RAMdisk to an image file, and restore it, automatically. It'll load the image at startup and save on shutdown, some even write the changes as you go along and can do incremental images, so it's fully automated. Again, yes, you do have to deal with one read and one write.

Why not dedicate 12GB to a RAM disk, enough to store most games or maybe even a couple, and still have more RAM than you'd ever realistically use for anything else? 16GB is fairly common nowadays, halving that to 8GB gives you a RAM disk big enough for a lot of games and 8GB left over, which is plenty.

I used to run a RAM disk when I had 16GB of RAM. I played a lot of Battlefield Bad Company 2, which had a folder around 11GB in size. 4-5GB was adequate to run the OS, background programs, and the game, which by the way loaded levels in a matter of a few seconds rather than 30-40 seconds. I had the software save an image at shutdown and load the image at startup, and I sued Steam Mover to move the game back to its original install directory when I fancied playing something else.

Again, I'm not saying a RAM disk is essential or even useful to everybody, I'm just saying that in some situations, with the appropriate software and if you understand the potential drawbacks, they can be very useful indeed. I do intend to run a RAM disk when I get my desktop up and running.

As far as the RAMDisk that I have used from Dataram the free version with the 4GB limitation, whatever you have for files in your RAMDisk is stored to the C:\ HDD or SSD as an image, and when the system boots, it does cause a slower boot to the desktop as it is reading from the drive and pushing this image to RAMDisk. Shutdowns are also slower as it has to write all that data to the image.

Personally the only application I have found so far for this RAMDisk software is when it comes to my one server that runs mySQL Database and when I run scripts on it that perform many read/writes which use to cause the HDD to run constantly for about 3 minutes building off the information that it is feeding from the info from the database performing calculations within the script and repopulating other tables from for a report, with the RAMDisk, each time this process is run it is completed in around 25 seconds on a Core 2 Duo, and would be faster on newer hardware, but 25 seconds is sweet vs 3 minutes of HDD read/write solid LED lit excessive HDD access in which you can hear a light chatter noise.

if you ask me the problem you solve with the RAM disk is probably that your queries are performing Cross Joins. I brought my workplace PostGres DB Server to it's knees while working out the query to use for a particularly complex report- my inexperience with advanced SQL caused me to perform Cross Joins across 4 tables containing several million records each, which basically crashed the server. (it didn't help that when I said "hmm this query seems to take a long time to process" in skype to a co-worker they ran the query in pgAdmin as well "so it does"). We worked throguh the SQL and ended up with an equivalent query that did what we wanted and finished in a few seconds.

Dear Guys, May my post FIND you all good in Health.

I have got a problem. I encrypted some data (Right CLICK on file or folder properties, Go in advance tab and then enable encrypt option) in my P.C. After sometime I installed new window x.p and found that now I also cannot access my data even logging via ADMINISTRATOR. PLEASE give me some solution so that i can recover my data back.

Thank You

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]No NEED to double - post...

Topic Closed.

I have some questions regarding my NOOK and how the wi-fi system works. Is this a place where I can get some help? THX, MicromosDid you just now buy one? Take fit back.
It is a e-book, not a computer.
One pundit called it JUNK and a reader responded:
Quote

‎I've had a Nook Classic for almost a year. My daughter has had one for six months. We love it and take it everywhere we go. Never had a problem opening books.
It's your money and you can certainly do what you want but I can't fathom such a waste.

Question: I've heard that e-books expire. Is this true? Also, can I share e-books that I purchase with friends?
Answer: In most cases e-books don't expire. However, libraries have started lending e-books. When the lending period is up, you can't read the e-books any more. As for sharing e-books, this isn't possible in most cases. That's because most stores use digital rights management to prevent piracy. Some e-readers do have a lending feature, though. For example, the Nook has the Lend Me feature. It lets you lend books to friends for 14 days. You can only lend a book once. And a publisher can disable this feature for certain e-books. So, this may limit the feature's usefulness.
...

it is not a computer.

tin·ker
[ting-ker]
noun
1. a mender of pots, kettles, pans, etc., usually an itinerant.
2. an unskillful or clumsy worker; bungler.
3. a person skilled in various minor kinds of mechanical work; jack-of-all-trades.
4. an act or instance of tinkering: Let me have a tinker at that motor.

Sorry, I didn't know. Are the rules available for viewing?

Yes, I hear ya....never drop your laptop. But I was in bed, reading a very interesting ARTICLE and before I knew it my laptop was on the floor. Basically it all works FINE more or less, the only problem is that the screen flickers from time to time. Sometimes it does it so frequently that you actually can't work on it...just wondering if anyone else had that problem? Or knows how to fix it? I don't want to get another laptop, I want to keep mine! The cable to the screen is probably loose or damaged. What laptop do you have? On some, it's relatively easy to open them up and check, but if you're unsure I WOULD probably RECOMMEND taking it to a shop to have them take a look, because if you're not careful you can run the risk of damaging the cable further.I've got a Toshiba Satellite U940...I think I could open it up and see if I can fix it, but I don't want to run the risk of damaging it further. I don't trust myself ENOUGH to open it up so I think I'll probably take it to someone who's an expert on this. Thanks for the advice. In that case I would definitely take it somewhere just to be sure.

Please can you HELP i need to no which one of these is best to buy
please can anyone help?
I need to know which is the best tablet from these two:
PINK 7 Inch Tablet Android A13 Multitouch panel WiFi Camera PC Netbook Ipad Q88
NEW DOUBLE CAMERA 7" INCH CAPACITIVE MULTI TOUCH ANDROID ALL WINNER TABLET PC

please can you help me DECIDE?

I have the coax end in the room I am moving to.

Need to connect additional piece of coax to it.

Looking for some ideas on how you would approach this. Basically my great aunt would like to get on the net, she's never used a computer and doesn't really want to, but she would like to be able to buy things online. My initial thought was to get her an Android tablet of some sort, preferably a 10" one because the larger screen size should be easier on her eyes, along with a stand and a keyboard. There's little she could do to mess up the Android OS, and the danger of getting a virus or other malware is almost nonexistent. The browser should work with most mainstream websites, and shouldn't restrict her too much.
My second thought was, I have an older laptop going spare, and perhaps either a LOCKED down install of Windows or some variant of Linux might work - I'm sure I've seen some installs out there which are basically like a kiosk, with just a few icons and no way to install anything. I need it to be as simple as possible, as resistant to accidental tampering as possible, and as secure as possible. The laptop has the advantage of a larger screen, and the ability to connect a separate screen if need be, plus I've never used a keyboard on a tablet (touch screen would not work for her) so I'm not sure how well they work. Also, can you even use a mouse on a tablet? If not, a tablet is no good really. Stupid questions perhaps, but I've never used a tablet beyond a little light web browsing and general playing around, I'm familiar with Android but not in terms of any additional hardware.
Any thoughts?A Bluetooth keyboard works fine, if the Android has Bluetooth.
Some, like Google PlayStation, are cheaper even than and old laptop. So you might sell you laptop and get enough to bu a low end Android. But make sure the thing will work with the Bluetooth keyboard. Buy it from a walk-in store where they will let your TRY before you buy.

This is NOT a recommendation. Just for information only.
http://www.nextag.com/keyboards-for-android/products-html
I recommend you buy for a local store where they will help with your project. If they don't help, walk to the next store. Everybody is selling this stuff nowadays. Well, here in California they are. In the drugstores. Hobby stores. Toy stores.I know a Bluetooth keyboard is an option, I'm more asking if a mouse would also be possible, and if a tablet would be suitable for someone who's never used basically any modern stuff before - no smartphone, no PC, nothing like that.
Cost isn't the ISSUE, I can pick up a tablet and accessories cheaply anyway, or I can repurpose the laptop. Makes no difference to me.
I can return items bought online if they don't work anyway, I won't be buying from a walk in store as they're all way too expensive for what they offer, would rather get a better product at a better price.Not sure about using a mouse on a tablet, even if you could get it to work it wouldn't be ideal as things like swiping between screens and zooming would be cumbersome if not impossible.

What about putting Chromium OS on the laptop - It'll just BOOT straight into the Chromium browser so that should be really easy for her to use, and almost impossible to break. http://chromeos.hexxeh.net/You can tell I haven't put too much thought into the tablet side of things hah, that's an excellent point.
Chrome OS could be worth a look, I'll put that on the laptop and see what it looks like.
She's basically only going to use the browser and possibly viewing some photos from her daughter & family in Canada, I can't see her doing much else really.Transferring the laptop to her seems like a better idea to me than the tablet. I think she'll like the larger screen more than a 10" screen. And, using a mouse with a laptop is an easy setup. I would also show her how to disable the touchpad. I have taught classes on basics of using Windows to senior citizens and one comment I've heard from a few students is that the touchpad is very sensitive. If you're typing on the keyboard, the slightest accidental touching of the touchpad can send the mouse pointer moving in unintended directions.

Regarding choice of OS, I'm not familiar with Google's Chrome OS so I can only concur that it might be a good option based on your evaluation. However, the following points might be PERTINENT. Do you anticipate yourself being her primary informal tech support person? Or, might she also have some interaction with other relatives, or friends, who are familiar with Windows but not with other OS?

If you decide to stick with Windows, I'm sure you'll be installing some protection apps. Although many of us experienced computer users may prefer free protection apps for personal use, I sometimes think paid versions are the better route for inexperienced users due to some added features that are available with paid versions. And, consider installing TeamViewer on the computer before transferring to her. Having it available in case she calls and asks questions might be very helpful. Quote from: soybean on September 05, 2013, 07:08:57 AM

Transferring the laptop to her seems like a better idea to me than the tablet. I think she'll like the larger screen more than a 10" screen.

I would also show her how to disable the touchpad. I have taught classes on basics of using Windows to senior citizens and one comment I've heard from a few students is that the touchpad is very sensitive. If you're typing on the keyboard, the slightest accidental touching of the touchpad can send the mouse pointer moving in unintended directions.

Regarding choice of OS, I'm not familiar with Google's Chrome OS so I can only concur that it might be a good option based on your evaluation. However, the following points might be pertinent. Do you anticipate yourself being her primary informal tech support person? Or, might she also have some interaction with other relatives, or friends, who are familiar with Windows but not with other OS?

If you decide to stick with Windows, I'm sure you'll be installing some protection apps. Although many of us experienced computer users may prefer free protection apps for personal use, I sometimes think paid versions are the better route for inexperienced users due to some added features that are available with paid versions. And, consider installing TeamViewer on the computer before transferring to her. Having it available in case she calls and asks questions might be very helpful.

So I picked up a 3TB External Samsung HDD for $99.99, marked down from $159.99 at newegg post labor day special, and I am hoping I am one of the lucky ones to get a good one that will last.

Looking at reviews of drives that are 3TB and larger lately I see lots of people having troubles, some people troubled by 2TB barrier of some BIOS's and others with drives that work great for a short while and then bite the dust.

I saw that this Samsung External has a Seagate HDD inside it and some people stated that Seagate moved drive manufacturing from Thailand to China and ever since then there have been many issues with the drives failing or making strange noises and still working etc.

I looked and saw that Toshiba also makes a 3TB HDD which was $10 more, but only a 2 year warranty and they too had issues with the drives such as one person who claimed to buy 4 of them for a RAID array and 2 of the 4 were DOA and others stating that they worked fine for 2 weeks died, sent back RMA and got a replacement and that drive died 2 months later and having to send it back in again.

Some people were stating that the drives with 1GB per platter were better than some earlier made ones in which they had 2 platters with 1.5TB per platter, but that the drive that is in the external that I bought COMES in a mix of 2 and 3 platter builds under the same part number.

Looking at at the negative info out there on drives 3TB and larger for WD, Seagate, Toshiba, Hitachi, etc it makes me wonder if the drive manufacturers are just getting sloppy in quality to make them quickly and cheaply or if they are starting to reach a physical limit in the capacity with current technology, which will be cured at some point in the future when technology meets making 3TB+ capacity drives which will last.

I almost didnt buy this drive due to the 3 eggs average rating and many many people reporting issues, but for the fact that this massive storage 3TB drive has a 3-year warranty and is priced at just $99.99 with free shipping and I have had good experiences in the past with shipping drives back to Seagate that were troubled under warranty and the replacement drives are still working years later with no troubles, I figured I'd pick it up. I havent been burned yet by Seagate, hopefully stating that doesnt set me up for a bad experience.

For the fact that 1/2 of the 3TB will be used to replicate my 1.5TB drive, storing on it is low risk for data loss, and the remaining 1.5TB can be used for lesser importance data. Given the feedback though I wouldnt use it as the only drive for storing data though as a single point of failure.

When I get it I will run it through a test period burn in process before I use it for data storage, if it passes the burn in without failure then it should be ok as for most hardware failures if there is a defect show up early on or under HEAVY use vs later on if the drive is well taken care of and left in a stationary location with no vibration to float a head and crash it. I learned a while back that excessive vibration (via loud low frequency) would kill a hard drive when I was playing "NIN - The Downward Spiral "loud and the subwoofer was on the floor under my desk with the computer tower down there off to my right side and I got the blue screen of death right in the middle of playing the CD and when I rebooted the system the hard drive had the clunk of death as for the vibration must have caused the head to strike the platter. Later I kind of laughed at the fact that I picked up on the fact that there were 3 songs on this album called Ruiner, Eraser, and Hurt that directly reflected the damage to that drive..LOL I now keep the computer away from the woofer as well as dont crank it that loud anymore.

But this issue with drives 3TB and greater with many negative feedbacks from many manufacturers reminds me of a similar issue that happened many years ago around the 4.3GB to 5GB drives in which many of them were failing from many manufacturers in the 1990s and at some point something changed with the density of the data on the platters I think and they released 8.4GB, 13GB, 20GB drives and they were now lasting vs crashing like the 4.3GB and 5GB drives that seemed like the drive manufacturers were pushing the drives beyond what they were capable of in design or quality took a dive for quantity!

Soon the cost of big drives will come way down. The industry is driven by cost and quality issues to the EXTREME. They have new technology that is much, much better, but the existing stuff represents a MAJOR investment. So they push the limit on what they already have.
Here is a bit of news.
WD upgrades NAS-friendly Red drives with 2.5-inch versions and 4TB desktop model
Quote

The existing 3.5-inch range now includes a high-capacity 4TB drive, and every new Red model ships with NASware 2.0 technology that should improve reliability.

Right now I have an Alienware M17x R3. I have been having problems with it, and just looking for a good gaming laptop. I want to stay away from Dell (and Alienware) and from the reviews, Toshiba gaming area. What options do I have? Also I want a strong laptop, not something in cheap plastic like Dells. What's your budget, and WHEREABOUTS in the world are you located?
I wouldn't want to buy an Alienware myself as they're usually very much style over substance, and the "style" is questionable at best.
I picked up a Dell L702X for my girlfriend recently at a very good price, it's not a hardcore gaming laptop but it handles most games and it's very solidly built indeed. That's not a RECOMMENDATION, as the L702X is older now, just to say that models within manufacturers' lineups can vary, so unless you've truly had a horrific experience with Dell, Alienware and Toshiba support or something, I wouldn't rule them out entirely.Quote from: Calum on September 06, 2013, 07:17:51 AM

What's your budget, and whereabouts in the world are you located?
I wouldn't want to buy an Alienware myself as they're usually very much style over substance, and the "style" is questionable at best.
I picked up a Dell L702X for my girlfriend recently at a very good price, it's not a hardcore gaming laptop but it handles most games and it's very solidly built indeed. That's not a recommendation, as the L702X is older now, just to say that models within manufacturers' lineups can vary, so unless you've truly had a horrific experience with Dell, Alienware and Toshiba support or something, I wouldn't rule them out entirely.

Is a desktop not an option at all? You'll get more for your money in terms of performance, reliability, upgradeability and usability.
If not, I'll take a look for you, but I don't know US retailers all that well, so if you or anyone else might be able to suggest some that carry a decent selection, that would be a great help.
I would agree that Alienware build quality is usually lacking, at least from the models I've had experience with - hence my comment above, they seem to be more style over substance.

I FEEL stupid for asking this QUESTION, but I've searched through all the help files, and searched the forum, and cannot find a SOLUTION to it.

How can I search for, and find, every post I've ever made to this forum?Click on your USER name on the left side of your post and then select "show posts"OK, Thanks.

God, I hate it when I'm looking for something, and it is right in front of my face, but I can't see it.

It's like looking around the whole house for your car KEYS, only to find out they were in your coat pocket the whole time.

Thanks again.No problem.

Quote from: Helpmeh on June 14, 2012, 02:19:54 PM

What about Windows Vista? I know it's ONE of Microsoft's larger mistakes, but some people actually use it.

Has anyone tryed the windows 8 preview
8 seems very promising

Isn't. Vista just a prettier version of ms xp?

Why is it a mistake?

Didn't I already post this?

whereas in Win7, it is turned off by default.

Windows® 7 introduces two intermediate UAC settings for Protected administrators, in addition to the two from Windows Vista. The first is to notify users only when a program is making the change, so administrators are automatically elevated when they make a change themselves. This is the UAC default setting in Windows 7, and it also makes use of the secure desktop.

No, UAC is enabled- they just added a new operation mode so there would be fewer prompts.
Source is here

Still, I think that's why many don't like Vista & decided to downgrade to XP, don't you think?

My User Account Control in Win7 is set to "Never Notify". Don't remember if I set it that way or it came that way.

windows 7 all the was actually, windows 7 is the best windows Microsoft ever made

That gets said about every new version of Windows that gets put out (with the exception of Vista and Me).

As the tittle, i am LOOKING for PAY per click SERVICE that cheap.
I read some review that adfly cost around $0.4 & can get about to 4000 clicks, not SURE about it yet.

Please share your opinion.
JEFF

Portable Apps, in this context, means a USB PROGRAM that can GO from oen Windows PC to another. No need to install the program n each Windows PC you use.

They have made some cool updates. Over 90 free programs available for Windows. Here is the video just released. Take a look:

PortableApps.com: Portable Software/USB
I have been USING Cameyo for making apps portable that otherwise are not: http://www.cameyo.com/

I was tipped off to check it out on a www.hak5.org weekly technolust episode about a year or so ago. Works well!

Will try this other one that you linked to see what it has for FEATURES, and maybe I will LIKE it better than Cameyo

So everyone knows that USB 2.0 is maximum of 480 M bits/s. ( Which converting to bytes is 60 MB/s. )

Looked online for my internal DVD ROM which shows figures in Mega Bytes/s of 22.16 MB/s when reading a DVD Disc at 16x speed and CD's at 7.2MB/s at 48x. As referenced here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136259R

I have 2 of these DVD-RW drives in my one system in which if both were reading data off of DVD Disc, the maximum bandwidth would be 44.32 MB/s combined leaving 15.68MB/s open.

Now the question is, that while there appears to be plenty of bandwidth for the data stream to the 3TB External Hard drive over USB 2.0 with nothing else on the USB 2.0 bus except for an optical mouse, how much of the bandwidth is used by Windows 7 to process the handshake and create the files/folders and verify they are created at the destination since it is not just a constant stream of data that is unmanaged.

*Reason why i am asking this is because I have a 3TB external hard drive that I am just starting the long process of going through stacks of backups to place all the data onto this drive as an archive to find data quickly when I am searching for someting from say 2006. Currently its a process of trying to remember when the data may have been used and then search the backup discs from that time period to find that one file or project. Its a big mess!

I wrote a program in C++ that can process the Discs and place their data on this external drive using the XCOPY routine and it increments the folder names and keeps track of the last one processed by writing the info to a data file. It creates folders at E:\> such as Disc1, Disc2, Disc3 etc and works well, however it took almost 3 hours to transfer 11 DVD's and I have hundreds of them to transfer to this drive at a maximum of 4.7GB per DVD most 4.5GB and smaller per Disc as well as many CD-R's with data backed up from before the DVD-R backup era.

So if both drives can transfer to this external at the same time, I will edit my source code to have an even and an odd version of this program and so the Even Version would create folders named Disc2, Disc4, Disc6... and the Odd Version would create folders Disc1, Disc3, Disc5... and this way data transfer will not step ontop of the other directory structure and data is kept seperate.

However I have concerns over whether I may not really have the bandwidth that I think I have doing the math because of the unknown of what Windows 7 uses to manage the creation of the data structure at the destination, and I am not sure if this could be problematic having two xcopy data streams to the single external at the same time in which the USB/SATA controller could be overworked and cause issues with data coming from more than one source?

** I was thinking about cracking open the external to installing this 3TB drive internally in which bandwidth concerns would be gone over SATA II communications, however I dont want to void the warranty on this brand new drive and want it to be portable vs mounted in a computer tower.

This is the external that I went with for $99.99 labor day deal: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152408You are really taking on a big project.
Do you know about external SATA? Why not use it.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=extrernal+sata+drive+kit&qpvt=extrernal+sata+drive+kit&FORM=IGRE

Or even eSATAp

Also, maybe you need to read up on database management.
You don't have USB 3.0, right? In regards to Geek-9pm's
Quote

You are really taking on a big project.
Do you know about external SATA? Why not use it.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=extrernal+sata+drive+kit&qpvt=extrernal+sata+drive+kit&FORM=IGRE

Or even eSATAp

Also, maybe you need to read up on database management.

Yeah, I tried it on two machines. I don't like it. It is nagware and hard to uninstall. Well, for me, it was hard. Not a simple install, it asks questions and makes it more than one step thing.
Besides, Lava Soft wants to put on their own toolbar. I don't want any other tool bar.

Now the worst part. They want my full name and address, my date of birth and the last four of my SS#. And my phone number. Hard to believe!

Do you like the new Ad-Ware from Lavasoft? *

* ODD name. Lave is only soft when it is about to suck you in.
Since your spelling LEAVES something to be desired i'm not sure what app your talking about...BTW...Ad ware and Adaware are 2 different apps... 1 of them is pretty good...the other one suxx.Right. I mus spelt again.
The product name is:
Ad-Aware Free Antivirus by Lavasoft

And the spell checker does not like Lavasoft either.

The program is ad ware.
See above...The program I got claims to be from Lavasoft. If it was not, then Lavasoft has some body out there trying to ruin the business. It asks too much information for registration of the free version. That is not appropriate, IMO, for a company seeking consumer trust.



Not only can your spell-check not work...you can't read what's been posted in your Topic...
ad Ware is not Adaware...i don't care if it's from Lavasoft ...or not.
Once again...see above.LavaSoft Ad Aware


I got no prompts for information when downloading. However, it did force close all my web browsers with no prompt, install a "security add-on" and change all their homepages to their "safe search" which I'm sure only by coincidence is a partnership with Yahoo.

I didn't LET the installation get far enough. between it forcibly closing all browsers without prompting I wasn't enthused with it. It didn't even cancel properly- I had to manually uninstall the "security add-on" at which point it opened IE and said how sad they were but also said "Uninstallation Succesful".

it seems like ad aware is definitely a form of adware. It forcibly closes all browsers, inserts itself into all installed browsers without a prompt, and essentially hijacks your home page.

Just noticed: even though I cancelled the installation and forcibly removed the parts that it didn't actually cancel, it still installed a shortcut icon on my desktop to "resume ad-aware installation".Tanks, BC. Sorry my spelling makes for confusion. The program from Lavasoft, WHATEVER it is, does cause confusion by its 'hijack' behavior.

I give it a thumbs down. Yes, the extras are hard to uninstall.I haven't used Adaware for years, it used to be pretty decent IMO but it WENT way downhill with addons and toolbars and who knows what, and if I recall correctly it used to like prompting you to upgrade to the paid version.Thanks Calum,
A quick search shows maybe Adware was the name of a specific program, but I can not find the source.
Anyway, the program I used was from Lacasoft. It sucks in its new version.

It was Lavasoft AdAware when I used it.

Had some fun yesterday on my day off. Powered up my computer from cold start and it started loading Windows and then it hung. Waited for about 30 sec and it was froze right up. Held power button in to shut system down. Turned back on after 10 sec for everything to wind down and it posted and then came up with:

DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER

So I thought oh great, the C: drive crashed. Great, I havent performed a backup since the 3rd week of August and I have some projects that I didnt back up to anywhere else out of being lazy that I probably lost.

What tipped me off to power supply was the following:

About 2 weeks ago I added a 3rd hard drive to this system using an available IDE connection to add a 160GB IDE HDD to make room for some games since the 500GB was getting full and taking a performance hit with less than 60GB free. I moved some large games that are played less frequently to the IDE HDD and this opened the 500GB drive up to running more efficient with more free space. The power supply in this computer is rated for 400watts and I figured it was plenty and 2 mechanical hard drives and 1 SSD would be fine on top of the normal power needs of the motherboard & CPU, fans, and ASUS ATI Radeon HD5450 video card.

And when the system booted with the side cover off of it, the CPU fan was spinning slowly instead of fast at power up and then it would spin down to a point that it was no longer spinning. When I saw this I thought why is that CPU fan not spinning anymore and so I gave it a light push with my finger to see if it was bound and it spun free and went a little bit as if its getting a weak voltage output and then slowed and stopped again. Multimeter read 4.81VDC at the power connector which is way low, and it should be .2V higher. Surprisingly the system did not shut down for the fact that that CPU fan was no longer spinning and I shut it down myself to protect the CPU from cooking.

I removed the 3rd hard drive that was recently introduced and then tried to boot the system and the system now booted with CPU fan 100% speed and then winding down to its normal speed, the mutimeter still connected to the P-connector now read 4.92 VDC cool this may have solved it to limp along until I can get a new PSU, but at post it came up yet again to:

DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER

Hmmm ... Maybe the C: drive was damaged by writing to itself during a low voltage condition. Ok time to dig out my Windows 7 Repair Disc. Tried to boot off this Disc and it wouldnt boot off of it. Checked this disc in my wifes computer and it booted fine in her system so the disc is good. I also noticed though that the Biostar Logo Splash screen was no longer showing at boot, so I looked in the BIOS and everything was set back to defaults and DVD ROM is still primary boot device before HDD, so why is it not booting from the DVD ROM. Maybe I NEED to unplug the IDE cable from this drive in addition to the P-connector that I unplugged, so I did this and now it booted off this Disc, but the Disc didnt find my Windows installation to repair, rebooted again and went in ans say that my SATA 0 port is connected to my SSD and SATA 1 is connected to the 500GB HDD so I needed to change the boot order to make the HDD the first on the list of drives as for the system was trying to boot off of my SSD instead of the HDD.

Biostar controls to change boot order shows ( - or + ) to move drive up /down on list. Ok no PROBLEM held shift and pressed the + key which is the = key if you dont use shift and no change... hmmm ok lets try shift and - ok, still no change... is the PSU so weak that the BIOS is not responding to change requests yet I can navigate to and from this config page... ok lets try the + and - keys which are part of the keypad, YAY those keys work and so I cant use shift and - + on the regular keyboard, I have to use the specific + and - keys which are part of keypad oh well, configured correct boot order and was going through other pages to confirm all is well and saw a typo on the main page ... instead of DEVICE every DEVICE was spelled DEVCIE. Hmm. Surprised I never seen that before. Ok time to save changes and see what happens.

Saved changes, removed the Windows 7 Repair Disc and yay Windows 7 is booting and I logged on and the first thing I did was grab my 500GB external and plug it into the USB port and its an externally powered external drive vs the smaller ones that are powered off of USB power and backed up everything that was important.

I then noticed that my multimeter was still connected to the P-connector and on and it now read 5.06VDC after its been running for about 2 hours. Left it running and gamed last night the games that are on the remaining drives with no problems.

I then just before bed decided to check out my CMOS battery because its very strange that the BIOS set itself back to default. So I carefully measured the CMOS battery with the 2032 battery still inserted in the button cell holder and it read 3.04volts so the battery is good. Ok now to test that the computer still boots to make sure I didnt accidentally clear the CMOS BIOS settings when poking around to find the voltage between battery and the CMOS reset jumper pin. System booted with no problems so settings remained.

*** So lesson learned... "Backup Frequently if not using RAID!!!", and dont always suspect the hard drive as crashed when you get an error of:

DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER

Ordered a new Corsair CX500 500Watt PSU, so going to limp along until it comes in, and frequently save to a USB flash drive for anything important because its running on weak PSU that seems to strengthen when warm and it could cause more headache before new PSU arrives. This is not what I wanted to do on my day off




QUOTE from: DaveLembke on September 10, 2013, 05:31:26 PM

...
When I saw this I thought why is that CPU fan not spinning anymore and so I gave it a light push with my finger to see if it was bound and it spun free and went a little bit as if its getting a weak voltage output and then slowed and stopped again. Multimeter read 4.81VDC at the power connector which is way low, and it should be .2V higher. Surprisingly the system did not shut down for the fact that that CPU fan was no longer spinning and I shut it down myself to protect the CPU from cooking.
...
Ordered a new Corsair CX500 500Watt PSU, so going to limp along until it comes in.

Hi there,

I am having problems with my PC. I had it at school and it worked flawlessly when connected with high-speed. But its the DIAL-UP that is causing us some problems at home! I checked with the ISP and everything is fine and even the OLDER computer works fine with it. Here's the facts:

- Connects to the Internet no problem.
- Internet EXPLORER works- slow. but works.
- MSN ( Windows Live Messenger) signs in SOME of the TIME.
- iTunes does not recognize internet connection.

- When I use Trouble shoot with Windows Live Messenger, it says theres a problem with the DNS. What is DNS? Is there problems with the settings? PROXY server?

I keep reading articles on how to help and what to do but I don't understand what DNS or Proxy server is!?
Please help, this is so frustrating!
Thank you very much!

- PICKLE Paradise

Go Start>Run
Type in:
cmd
Hit Enter.
Command Prompt window will open.
Type in:
ipconfig /release
Hit Enter
Type in:
ipconfig /renew
Hit Enter.
Close the window.
See, if that helps.

hey there Im currently building a pc. And before I go ahead and buy could you please tell me if everything is compatible and if theres better parts i should get for AROUND the same price from NZ websites www.pricespy.co.nz thats to look for parts from nz websites and the currency im using is the nz dollar thanks.

My computer parts [incl gst and shipping

Intel Core 2 Duo E6750, 2.66GHz 72 prices $305.66

http://www.nzoczone.com/product_info.php?products_id=4310

Seagate (ST3320620AS) Barracuda 320GB SATA II SATA, 16 MB Cache.$146.75

http://www.dragonpc.co.nz/p.aspx?76689

Corsair (TWIN2X2048-6400C4) 2 x 1Gb DDR2-800 *XMS2-6400 $184.80

http://www.dragonpc.co.nz/p.aspx?79426

Raidmax Smilodon Gaming Tower Case, 520W ATX2.0 PSU $220.15

http://www.dragonpc.co.nz/p.aspx?82690

Gigabyte (GA-P31-S3L) LGA775 Motherboard *1333FSB *4 DDR2 667/800 slots $149.63

http://www.dragonpc.co.nz/p.aspx?102193

Dragon (HBC-030) 3.5" VR Rheobus 4 CHANNELS Fan Speed Controller, Black $33.24

http://www.dragonpc.co.nz/p.aspx?96577

Legend NVIDIA Geforce 8600GTS 512MB GDDR3 PCI-E 16X TV-out Graphics $335.75

http://www.nzoczone.com/product_info.php?products_id=5433

Asustek DRW-1814BLT Lightscribe SATA DVD-RW Black 16X DVD ± R SA $57.15

http://www.nzoczone.com/product_info.php?products_id=3767

And if anyone could tell me how many gig of ram can windows xp read or use please as some guys at school think 2 and others think 3 and others think 8?

so any help will be appreciated and thank you in advance.



Quote from: gamemar link=topic=43915.msg275349#msg275349

And if anyone could tell me how many gig of ram can windows xp read or use please as some guys at school think 2 and others think 3 and others think 8?

Hi all: I have tried twice to download FIREFOX and each time it appears to have completed the download but I get a msg saying something about not being able to complete because of something to do with a firewall. So...What do I do?
This is the message I get:
The proxy server is refusing connectionsFirefox is configured to use a proxy server that is refusing connections.
* Check the proxy settings to make sure that they are CORRECT.
* Contact your network administrator to make sure the proxy server is
working.







Quote from: pasta on October 10, 2007, 01:14:12 PM

I get a msg saying something about not being able to complete because of something to do with a firewall. So...What do I do?