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Watch this video FIX Page Fault in Nonpaged Area Windows 10 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1-ayuDXP3c. This video very helped to me

When I'm running gmail in google chrome, I get a beep every time an EMAIL arrives. I've SEARCHED in vain but can't find how to turn off this notification. I don't know if it's coming from chrome, gmail or windows.

   Click the Chrome menu button in Google Chrome and choose "Settings" from the menu. Click "Extensions" in the navigation pane to view all extensions installed in Chrome. Click the "Enabled" check box to the right of the Chrome Sounds extension to disable it.Thanks for input but when I opened extensions in Chrome I didn't see a Chrome Sounds Extension which is odd as that should be something you wouldn't have to add. Sound must be coming from somewhere else.    .  Here is a LINK that might solve  your problem. 
How to Add a New Mail Sound for Gmail
Quote

When you are on Gmail.com, new messages don't TRIGGER a sound notification. There are a couple of ways you can go about getting a Gmail notification sound, but the method you choose DEPENDS on how you access your mail.

Hi!

I got from giveaway Ibik Aster software.
In description is written that it is software to use single computer like multiuser station.
Part of text: You can connect monitor, keyboard and mouse, microphone... and 2nd user can work together.

It is for me unclear, so I tested software on virtual machine and there is at workspace creation in option login message for one user and for second etc...

What I need:
Single computer for 2 users which can work simultaneously (at once) with SEPARATE desktops, keyboards and mice - and of course access restriction.
I'm USING PC with 3 monitors and have not problem to connect else one keyboard and mouse (or more).
But where I see problem and it is for me unclear how can two users work without clash of work, even two mouse pointers etc.
I need it 'cause friend needs computer and we have no money to buy else one and also I don't want to restrict him use to time when I'm not at computer.
I know that also other software exist - MS MultiPoint, SoftXpand, Betwin, Userful.
But I think prices are higher than single computer.

I have Aster from giveaway and it can open me door to allow work together.
But really UNDERSTAND it not correctly.

Is it possible? Even, if, can anybody to explain me how to set options and avoid mistakes?

Thank you for each word.
MiroI suggest you use https://www.ibikcolombia.com as your support and LEARNING vehicle.  Get to know the site and use any support/learning offered there. Thank you!

I found there links also to other webs and helped!
Miro

what cause this error (hardware or software)? This error event appears every minute and i got over 20000 error. First, i really want to know where it comes from? I've searched thousands of materials on internet but none of them give me a cause, they just show step by step solution to solve this PROBLEM, but all of them is mess, even harmful for my computer .  So anyone PLEASE give me a cause of this problem first, before flood me with any solution. Here is my logs:

A corrected hardware error has occurred.

Component: PCI Express Root Port
Error Source: Advanced Error Reporting (PCI Express)

Bus:Device:Function: 0x0:0x1C:0x4
Vendor ID:Device ID: 0x8086:0x9D14
Class Code: 0x30400

The details view of this entry contains further information.Wrong MBoard drivers or failing MBoard...vendor ID is Intel, device ID is for their Wireless-AC 3165 CARD. (which is a laptop card from what I can tell and would therefore usually be part of the provided chipset/motherboard drivers for the system as patio mentions)

I'd second therefore that either the device itself has failed or the driver being used is incorrect.Someone told me that this is problem with my graphics card, should i TAKE it off ?

Today i started my computer, everything was fine. Until i tried to play something at youtube. The sound was very low and it was distorted. I opened up the speakers and searched for any wires that are not connected, every transistor, every capacitor and even the transformer and nothing seemed that exploded/burned. I even tried to reinstall windows 10 but the sound worked only for like half an hour and again started being distorted and low volume. I tried a lot of google searching and troubleshooting but nothing seemed to work. I even reinstalled the drivers and installed the latest ones but no difference. Windows notifications and musics from games seem to sound just fine. But when i go to listen something to opera (my default web browser) it works fine playing music but when someone's talking its very annoying. So i would be happy if someone responds... though i didn't tried to install other web browsers... I don't even know are they permanently or temporarily like that but i hope they aren't...

I tried even to turn off sound effects. When i try to turn off the "Other applications can take EXCLUSIVE control of this DEVICE " option but it gets on again...
I posted this problem on other forums and some people think that its because i use the latest windows 10 version and that version has the sound broken and that.. if that is the case i would like to know how to get the older version of windows...

So i ALWAYS need to punch them to work and then after some time it would do it again...

I tried plugging them to my old computer and they were not working..

I use Windows 10 Pro 64Bit version and Realtek audio drivers...

Does anyone recommend these speakers if i need to buy new ones? : https://www.links.hr/hr/zvucnici-rampage-rms-g7-falsetto-2-0-rgb-6w-plavi-100503567 (sorry for weird language or currency, its KN (Croatian currency) the euro currency is 12€, 13.99 USD)

Also i had once a same problem with the same computer

So i have this Zalman computer with Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4460 CPU 3.20GHz, 3201 Mhz and 4 Cores, and i have AMD Radeon R7 200 Series graphics card. This happened long ago... So i wanted to start my pc, but i accidentally turned off the electrical cord. So i turned it back on and it the computer just did not want to start. I pressed the cord like 1000 times but it wont turn on, my solution that only worked once was that to unplug the cord, turn off the power supply and let it be like that for 3 hours, and then it would work again! But this time i did that again but it did not work. so i drived to the nearest computer fixing store and told them my problem, tommorow they told me that the graphics card was the problem. They said they tried to boot the computer without the graphics card and that it turned on without any problem! So i want to know why does graphics card sometimes not let my computer turn on..Hi

I see from your description there is 3 or more problems with the computer. First lets get it starting so you can GIVE us some more information easily.

First with the power turned off at the wall or back of the power supply, can you remove the AMD Radeon R7 200 card and use the on board graphics. if windows boots then download and Run Speccy from here  https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

After the program runs select File,publish report and copy the report link to your next post.

Can you please tell us the make and model of power supply in the computer.

The speakers you linked, if you like the look of them are fine. I doubt this is a problem with your present Speakers thou.


Then

I've been having problems with my computer for the past six months. I have one HARD drive that sometimes doesnt register on my computer and when it does, my computer to freeze pretty regularly. Another one of mine isn't letting my computer connect to the internet and when it is connected, it runs at a snail's pace compared to the other one. What can I do to resolve this issue?From your post, it would seem that almost anything might be the problem.
Here is my wild guess. Crazy wild off the wall shot in the dark.

It is your CD-ROM drive! 

REMOVE both power and data from the CD-ROM drive and see what happens.
I don't have a CD-ROM drive, unfortunately. Unless I do and I just don't know it. There isn't a place for me to insert CDs.Hi

It's possible all the symptoms you describe are related to failing hard drives. With any drive you can test it's health with a program called HD sentinel a trial version is available from here 

https://www.hdsentinel.com/

Awesome! I'll try it out and get back to you with what I find.

Edit: The program says that my HDD is perfectly fine...now I have no idea what to do.
I posted this problem earlier and when I built this computer I just took that hard drive and put it into this one. Then someone said that that was the problem because it has all different drivers and I need to adjust them for the new computer. Could that be what the problem is? I tried to figure out how to UPDATE the drivers but I got nowhere.Yes... thats the issue...travel to the MBoard manuf. site and grab all drivers...install chipset drivers 1st...then re-boot...then all othersI installed the drivers and will let you know if that solved the problem. Thanks for the help!
I previously thought it was the HDD manufacturer's site to download the drivers and not the motherboard's. I really appreciate the assistance!It didn't solve the problem but that could be because the motherboard driver that I couldn't install wasn't compatible. I think it could be because in BIOS I have it set to AHCI and WHENEVER I switch to RAID it just reboots back to BIOS and the driver has RAID in the title, but other than that I don't know.The MBoard drivers should take regardless of what mode is set...U sure you grabbed the right ones ? ?My motherboard is a B350M Gaming Pro and there were 4 drivers given on the site.
The four were: Realtek PCI-E Ethernet Drivers, Realtek High Definition Audio Driver, AMD Chipset Driver, and AM4 RAID Driver.
I installed the chipset driver and then rebooted, as per your instructions, and then the remaining THREE but the last one says "system configuration is not compatible for RAID drivers or applications installation."

Hi, I have an 1TB SSD with THREE partitions each running windows 10 home edition. One of the partitions wont boot.




I have a (GAMING partition) that boots into windows fine, a (Fallout 4) partition thats boots into windows fine, and a (Skyrim partition) that wont boot into windows when I CHOOSE it in the "Choose an operating system" screen.
 
When I chose my Skyrim partition in the "Choose an operating system" screen my motherboard logo appears and at the bottom it says "Preparing Automatic Repair", then goes to "Diagnosing your PC", then to "ATTEMPTING repairs" and then to a blue screen STATING "Automatic Repair couldn't repair your PC".




This one partition just wont boot. Im thinking somehow the boot information may have been deleted or corrupted. When I log into my gaming partition and go to "This PC" the Skyrim partition shows up and is assigned the letter E:. When I open the Skyrim (E:) all the information is there and I am able to look through all the files in the partition.

Does anyone KNOW how to STOP the annoying pop-up ASKING if I want to try Chrome? It appears every time I open a Google app. I TRIED turning off all push notications in Win 10 Settings, but that did not stop it. Thanks.    Click on the menu icon (three stacked dots) on the top-right of the Chrome screen.
    Click “Settings”.
    Scroll to the bottom and click “Advanced”.
    In the Privacy and Security section, scroll down and click “Content Settings”.
    Click “Notifications”.

Hi!

I'm not sure if I hadn't post this in DOS section, so please FORGIVE me.

I need to transfer data between my PC (Windows 10.1903 x64 Pro) and notebook with MS-DOS 7.10 (also Windows 3.11 for Workgroups - but without Win32s)
I want to use SERIAL port 'cause DOS is not so FAMILIAR with USB.
I know that serial transfer was possible even on my hobby computers - Commodore 8-bits.

But what a software to use for Windows and for DOS?
Also - can anybody recommend me important THINGS LIKE timing etc?

Thank you for help.
Miro

Hello all

I am having an issue where it appears that the NEWEST Nvidia driver is causing issues for me with multi-monitor setups in ANY GAME. If I run a game at 1920x1080 or lower resolution, it displays on my secondary monitor which natively runs at x1080. My PRIMARY is at 3840x2160. No matter how many times I select 'display 1' in whatever game or program I am using, it still uses the secondary monitor for some reason.

The only workarounds I have found are upping the display resolution or running the game in windowed mode (can't do fullscreen as it just defaults back to secondary monitor for no reason.)

Bonus issue: If I disable the display in Windows, or otherwise unplug it - any game I try to run afterwards doesn't work at all!

Is there any way to fix this issue so that I can get software to properly run on my primary monitor without changing the display resolution? This has really been bugging me and so far nothing has worked. Help? 

I am running Windows 10 Pro (64 bit) with a 980 GTX if that mattersRun a driver that works, Nvidia has a LIST for them for your model card.Did the previous Nvidia driver work as expected? If so, was there some specific reason you upgraded? If not, roll back to the previous version. Drivers should only be updated if absolutely necessary or if the new release offers a feature you "must have".

I get the following Error log when trying to reinstall windows 10 on my HP SLIM desktop. Any idea whats causing the hold up? Solutions? Text DOC ATTACHED below
Reinstall from USB drive or a restore/refresh from within Windows?Hi

Reading the report it may be you have bad memory.

RAM Defects
-----------
identifier              {badmemory}

GLOBAL Settings
---------------
identifier              {globalsettings}
inherit                 {dbgsettings}
                        {emssettings}
                        {badmemory}
Your HP has memory diagnostics built in, when you start the computer press esc and select system diagnostics to check the system. If you have memory errors it doesn't mean the memory is faulty all that may be REQUIRED is with the power turned off at the wall wait a few minutes and then try removing and inserting the memory a few times to clean the contacts. Then run the memory diagnostics again. Until it passes.

It do no work for me. It USED too, I think. 
I can not do this:

How to Create Desktop Shortcuts on Windows 10 the Easy Way

What is wrong?  Until you tell us what yer doin we cannot assist...
C'mon Geek...you been here long enuff to know the drill.OK. I will sow pictures. Here they are.

Kohn.jpg        my current desktop, my shortcuts are missing.
Maxine.jpg     my sweet wife's desktop
MyStype.jpg   LATER, after play with above, got this, but not sure how I did it.

Question:
How to get the last style to be my desktop. (I am Kohn.)
Thanks for you kind help.
(Meanwhile, my family is has COMPLAINED about Internet failures.     Not how I want to spend a Sunday.) Looks like your desktop icons are hidden.  Right-click on your desktop, select View->Show desktop icons.

This is actually discussed in the article you linked to in the SECTION titled "Working With Your Shortcuts". Strollin,
You are so right!
THAT WORKS

My laptop is an HP i3, relatively NEW. The internet disconnects usually at coffee shops but sometimes like today at the public library. I UNINSTALLED the drivers and updated the software. I thought the problem disappeared but today again at the library discovered twice it needed to be reconnected. Last hour or two no problems.

Any knowledge on this? Where are the updated drivers from ? ?I read online to uninstall the drivers and Windows will REINSTALL them automatically. It did. This morning I was at a Starbucks and the internet refused to connect after rebooting several times I left for the library.

Should I try an earlier version on this laptop? No, more likely you have a hardware weakness.
You can get a Wi-Fi USB dongle in some stores  under $15.
Or buy on at Amazon for under $9 with free shipping.

Google USB Wi-Fi adapter

Disable the laptop wi-fi and let Windows install the new device.
Thanks - - you're the best. I was thinking EXORCISM but you have the better idea.  Never ever let Windows install drivers...Get them from the laptop manuf. site only...
Re-boot after install.Check either HP's website or the your wifi card manufacturer's website QUOTE from: 2x3i5x on August 20, 2019, 04:29:59 PM

Check either HP's website or the your wifi card manufacturer's website

Hi!

I turned on File History in Control Panel.
It allows to exclude folders from there and it is easy.

I have separate partitions by CONTENT and disks from C to O.
I want to include some partitions or folders only.
When I exclude some folders it always backup not wanted - I don't know how the order of backup works.
I want to PREFER for example partition D to backup and maybe other folders only.

I found no way how to include partitions/folders, only exclude.
Is possible to customize it by this way? No matter if by Control Panel or Settings or other way.

THANK you for help, reply or comments.
MiroHi Miro

I sort of understand your question except you seem to have not told us what backup system you are using. It is normal to do the folder includes in the program not in windows control panel.

Thank you I'm sorry I meant that in Windows 10 it is for all versions common.

I'm using Windows 10.1903 x64 Pro.

MiroThanks
It's not a part of windows I have used.
Preferring to use "EaseUS to do backup" from here  https://www.easeus.com/backup-software/tb-free.html
Although i use the paid WORKSTATION version. 
Lisa, I'm not asking about EaseUs or other product, I'm asking for Windows 10 feature File History built-in at least LATEST Windows 10 version 1903.
File History allows also to use older versions from file properties menu.

I hope now you understand.
MiroYes I now do thank you you Miro

Hi all

I have just set up a Guest account in Windows 10 USING the Command Prompt instructions as listed on numerous websites such as here https://www.windowscentral.com/how-create-guest-account-Windows10 . I have read there is no Guest function in Windows 10 and as such this is the only way to set one up.

However, whilst the account works... when logged into this account (and logged OUT of main/administrator account) any search carried out finds the files that should be limited/hidden, such as all files on D drive, C drive ETC.

How can the Guest account in Windows 10 be set up so that a guest can use the PC, but be limited and have no access to search, files and folders in D, etc? Or is there a better way to allow a 'guest' account for limited INTERNET access without access to the rest of the PC?

Thanks in advance.

Quote from: chad on September 01, 2019, 07:38:22 PM

I have just set up a Guest account in Windows 10 using the Command Prompt instructions as listed on numerous websites such as here https://www.windowscentral.com/how-create-guest-account-Windows10 . I have read there is no Guest function in Windows 10 and as such this is the only way to set one up.

As you can see in the preview taken from the personalization page in SETTINGS, there should be a white border around the windows. The effect is that when I snap one to one half of the screen and ANOTHER to the other side, there is a small gap in between where the white border should be. Like when you have a WINDOW selected, it will be highlighted by the border to indicate that window is front. This happened when I tried out 1903 months AGO and is still present when I RECENTLY reupdated. This issue is not present in version 1803.

I have been having an issue with games constantly crashing to desktop or fatal erroring on me.
I recently upgraded my GPU thinking it was my old one causing the issue but the new one did not help with this at all.
I have noticed that the issue seems to happen allot when I am in a discord call, it will either crash out discord or the game or sometimes both.
I also sometimes GET a BSoD error when I keep trying to launch the game to often after the crash.

OS Version: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro, 64 bit
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3570 CPU 3.40GHz, Intel64 Family 6 Model 58 Stepping 9
Processor Count: 4
RAM: 16325 Mb
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060, -1 Mb
Hard Drives: C: 1862 GB (394 GB Free); E: 465 GB (429 GB Free);
Motherboard: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC., P8Z77-V LK
Antivirus: Windows Defender, Enabled and Updated Go to Device manager...any YELLOW !!'s ? ?when I ma playing games it seems to make the CPU go yellow, but it's odd cause these where games that I played not long ago with no problems, just suddenly within the past 2 months this isue has been happining.These are games I used to play liek a year or so ago on this same PC with the same OS ect... so it should not be crashing like this...

A white RECTANGLE, looks like a miniature blank page, appeared on my screen. It responds to nothing I can FIND; how do I MAKE it go away?
Thanks;
JOE b.Is this a laptop or DESKTOP?

So my wifes computer crashed as a result of my DAUGHTER accidentally unplugging the power cord out the back of it. When I went to perform repair it stated that it cant be repaired. So I popped in the Windows 10 DVD that has a build date of May 2019. During the installation process wiping out the SSD clean and installing Windows 10 clean to it one of the steps it goes through stated UPDATE. Wish I got a picture of it to share here, but my question is, does Windows 10 upon install run out to Microsoft to get the latest update to install from upon clean install with an internet connection present before the OS is completely installed to system?

Sadly the system needs more than just a clean install to the SSD as for it black screened on me through the install process and became unresponsive, so when I get home from work tonight I will be digging into why its doing that.

That could be SSD, RAM, or Power Supply I'm thinking. The SSD when I deleted the partitions and then went to create a new partition it gave me an error, yet telling Windows 10 to install to it without creating a new partition it appeared that Windows 10 was installing to it because it was showing the percentages for each step of the process. I then walked away to get ready for work and when I came back to CHECK on it it was black screen and no keyboard activity since caps and num lock wouldn't work.

First thing I am going to do is remove the Corsair Force F40 (40GB) SSD and see if its health is bad by use of my HEALTHY computer and a SATA to USB Dock. The good thing is her games and personal data I had her saving to the 320GB HDD, so if the SSD is junk it wont be a big loss and it ran a long life of many hours of use. I have a stack of laptop hard drives that are good used drives and so worst case scenario is add one of those to her system and build Windows 10 to that to be back up and running and then order her like a low cost but quality brand 128GB or 256GB SSD if she wants the fast boot. For the fact that her computer runs 24/7/365 she doesn't really benefit from the fast boot of a SSD and a HDD might be fine, BUT the swap space on a SSD does make a performance difference so we will see.Update to this is that the Rosewill power supply was the issue with  black screen the SSD tested out fine. Rebuilt the system fresh to the Corsair Force F40 SSD and nice and fast.

I supplied a picture from my phone of the computer monitor for updates listed in the install process 2nd to bottom. Guessing that during the install it runs to Microsoft to get all updates so upon install its all up to date vs having to update/patch after install?....

Yesterday, my screen went into "screen saver MODE", DARK, from too much time passing without a "key stroke".

When I "left clicked" my mouse to once again bring my pc back into the active mode, the screen lit, but my desktop with all its ICONS was gone.

What I had instead was about 15 brown squares, about 1.5 by 1.5 inches each, with various functions on them. I do not have a "TOUCH screen". I've spent over two hours today, trying to get my desktop, and its icons back.

Help! this is driving me crazy.Re-boot...I have rebooted many times. First thing I tried. STILL restarts with those Windows 10 brown squares.OK. I found it. Windows 10 has a "tablet mode". If it is placed in the tablet mode, all your little desktop icons disappear and the large touch screen icons appear. Take you pc out of the touch screen "tablet mode", and your desktop reappears. (Bring back WIN 7, please).

According to the 2 beeps, I have a parity error.  Mouse, keyboard, & monitor won't come on.  I have taken the Ram out & tried one at a time, STILL no luck.Has it EVER worked ? ?...more than 1 STIK ? ?....NEW RAM ? ?

More details.Quartz... hmmm....

I don't understand why my PC starts choking to the point of becoming totally unresponsive if I open too MANY tabs in my browser despite having ample RAM.

If the web browser under use (Firefox, Edge, IE, Chrome) start clocking up more than 10Gb of RAM use, it is to the point where it almost freezes. This despite these browsers allegedly being 64-bit as well, just like my Win 10 Pro for Workstations.

I am also running dual Xeon E5-2696 v4 CPUs and dual 1080GTX on six 1980x1080 screens. System disk (C:) is a Samsung SSD 960 Evo 1Tb with 226Gb free while personal files (D:) is on a WD Red 10Tb with 6Tb free. I am using no paging file for any of those drives.

Any input would be most WELCOME Have you run memtest86 to make sure that all 128GB of RAM is happy?  I'd run it through at least 3 FULL tests.I have to say with your specs there's no excuse for that happenin... Quote from: DaveLembke on August 07, 2019, 06:58:55 PM

Have you run memtest86 to make sure that all 128GB of RAM is happy?  I'd run it through at least 3 full tests.

So I just GOT a new external SSD and I was wondering how I could know if TRIM is enabled on it. A quick google search did not really give me the answers I was looking for and typing
"fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify" in cmd prompt doesn't really tell me much because I'm not sure if the results from that command are also applicable to external SSDs.External how? e-Sata? FIREWIRE? USB?
There are 3 methods of finding out.

1.) Contact the manufacturer and ask them if the SSD inside their branded enclosure has TRIM.

2.) Install Crystaldiskinfo and look at the S.M.A.R.T information reported from this SSD there is a line that will show if TRIM is a feature of the drive. It will also give you other helpful info on health of drive and how many hours its been used and how many times the drive has been booted as well as some SSD's have a WRITE odometer that will tell you how many writes in TB the drive has performed. *** Only issue this software has with external DRIVES is that there are some USB to SATA controllers that do not support fetching the S.M.A.R.T data from a drive and so a drive sometimes has to be mounted internally to a SATA port to fetch this information directly from SATA controller drive information request.

3.) RESEARCH the Drive that is inside the enclosure looking up its exact model number and look at its feature for TRIM. If no information on it on the internet, you might have to open enclosure and write down the drive information and research it, that is if its a brand name drive within another branded enclosure. If its a really cheap external SSD then it could be a cheap knock off SSD board inside a cheap case and unknown. With no labeling for identification present the only method would be to connect this drive internally to have a direct SATA connection and use Crystaldiskinfo to fetch the S.M.A.R.T data.

So before bed me and my man have a 12 hour RAIN vid queued up for the night to help us sleep, and a download from a launcher ( that NEEDS to be on there for the game to run properly ) to the PC only for it to fail halfway through the night. hes never had an issue with failed updates or DOWNLOADS going throughout the night and suddenly its happened to 3 different games now. whats going on?Some games when idle for too long will log you out of their service. So thats one possibility.
Some ISP's perform MAINTENANCE late night/early AM and it can interrupt an internet connection causing update to fail.
In Power Properties I would be sure that your computer isnt going to sleep on you as your SLEEPING and interrupting the update as a result of the computer nodding off as well.

Here's a good question about a recent wifi problem we were having:  Background = We have about a dozen devices (windows computers, ipads, imac, smart TV's, and smartphones) connected to our home wifi network.  We have fiber optic in our neighborhood so our speeds are usually 90+ mbps.  A week ago, ALL 3 of our windows computers could not get a decent internet connection.  Sometimes the router's wifi name wouldn't even appear in the list of available networks.  If we could connect, it often took 10 minutes to load a page.  Again, this was happening ONLY on the 3  windows PC's. 

Here's the wild part:  The Imac, the ipads, the smart TV's and the smartphones all still had screaming fast internet speeds over the wifi.  It was ONLY the windows computers that couldn't get online.  They were all definitely connected to the same wifi network.  No question about it.

So...I rebooted the router, did a hard reset on the router, on the windows PC's I rebooted them, did a system restore on one of them, uninstalled and reinstalled the wifi adapters on all 3 of them... nothing made any difference.  Classic signs of a bad wifi signal right?

And before you suggest that perhaps a Windows update (or some other change to the Windows PC's) might be the culprit, know this:  2 of the 3 windows PC's I was using had been sitting in my closet for 6-8 months - not being used at all.  I only pulled them out so I could test my hypothesis (that my windows PC wasn't the problem).  So it couldn't possibly be any sort of recent update or other change that caused the problem, since those 2 computers hadn’t been connected to the internet for many months.

Logically, if multiple computers are having the same problem GETTING a good wifi signal, then the problem has to be either the router, or the internet signal coming into the HOUSE.  It can't be the fault of the computers if it's happening to 3 different ones.  But then why did ALL of the other devices continue to operate normally?

The AT&T tech was just here, he swapped out the router, and now everything is great.  But I can't stop wondering how in the world this could have happened. 

Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.  Thanks.
Quote

The AT&T tech was just here, he swapped out the router, and now everything is great.  But I can't stop wondering how in the world this could have happened.

Hi, I have bought a new laptop LAST week. Now i want to set up windows 10 and Linux OS in my laptop. I want to USE the duel mode. Is it possible? if yes, how I can set up both of these?First thing to do is create the system RECOVERY media which will require either a 16GB or 32GB flash drive.

Next you will need to install Windows 10 and then SHRINK the partition to make at least 20GB free space for Linux.

Then install Linux to this free space which becomes other partitions for Linux as well as Linux will install a bootloader which will GIVE you option at boot to select for Windows 10 or Linux distro of your choice that is installed.

If you crash the system badly, revert to the system recovery media that you created in step 1 and start over.

Hi!

I want to UPLOAD my Firefox bookmarks automatically to my domain in HTML and have them available in my mobile phone.
Phone is Windows 10 Mobile Lumia 550 and Firefox is not available.
I NEED to create batch which uploads bookmarks, then schedule task for each 1 hour to run batch.
But really - in Windows I know nothing about upload in batch.

Thank you for each help..
MiroThis reference might be what you need: https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/export-firefox-bookmarks-to-backup-or-transfer
No, I have not problem with bookmarks export.

I have problem with uploading them on my domain - to make them accessible via network.

MiroDo you have HTML files that you've uploaded to your web server?  If so, how did you do that?  Do you use FTP upload files to your server?  If not, I SUGGEST you use it. 

Are you using a paid web hosting service for your domain?  If so, see whether they offer FTP functionality via a user control PANEL. 

If you need an FTP client, i.e. software, take a look at https://filezilla-project.org/I have bought domain with webhosting and services.
I need to automate uploading favorites each 2 hours, nothing more nothing less.
I know not Filezilla and really prefer portable software to avoid fill system of unusable software.

For me ideal solution is to use command line batch.
But really don't know how to use and what a command use. I know there's anything, but there my knowledge ends.

Miro

Hi, currently having some issues here. I am trying to connect an old desktop hard drive to my laptop, but it does not seem to detect anything in my file explorer. (btw using a SATA-USB 3.0 adapter). I HEARD that the SATA mode can be changed from Intel RS to AHCI, and does that make my computer detect the hard drive?As far as these SATA to USB adapters go, generally they just work as long as the hard drive is healthy and not encrypted and as long as the computer connecting to the USB port has the right drivers. For the fact that you posted this in the WIN 10 section I am curious if the SATA to USB 3.0 adapter you have is Windows 10 compatible?

What do you see when you connect this to your Windows 10 laptop. No drive mounted at all, or in device manager a yellow warning about this adapter or red X that there is an issue with it?

Additionally what is the exact make/model of this adapter so i can look it up to verify info on it?

Does it actually mount the drive as a drive letter that can be navigated but some data is missing because protected? Quote from: DaveLembke on July 14, 2019, 10:14:55 AM

As far as these SATA to USB adapters go, generally they just work as long as the hard drive is healthy and not encrypted and as long as the computer connecting to the USB port has the right drivers. For the fact that you posted this in the Win 10 section I am curious if the SATA to USB 3.0 adapter you have is Windows 10 compatible?

What do you see when you connect this to your Windows 10 laptop. No drive mounted at all, or in device manager a yellow warning about this adapter or red X that there is an issue with it?

Additionally what is the exact make/model of this adapter so i can look it up to verify info on it?

Does it actually mount the drive as a drive letter that can be navigated but some data is missing because protected?

Check Disk Management. It may be detected but might not be assigned a drive letter.

Hi
It will only work with some laptop hard drives not desktop hard drives. There isn't enough current available from a usb 3 port to power a desktop drive. Also there is no 12 V power on the adapter you have  which a desktop drive needs to run the motor. Please see below of a suggestion .

Get an external enclosure with an A/C power plug...it'll work.

I'm using this-- https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/
It supports 2.5"/3.5" SATA HD's.

I am RUNNING an up-to-date Windows 10 install on a high res dual 3820x 2160 monitor setup.
When I log into [RDP] my clients Windows Server 2012v2 machine the icons on the desktop are HUGE. The program menus look sort of OK (I can work with them) but icons internal to the programs are tiny tiny. It won't let me change the resolution from a REMOTE session.
Is this a problem with my setup? If so please give any guidance. I've tried to muck around with the RDP settings and can't seem to get to anything that works.
Or is this more likely problem with the SPECIFIC program I am using not being able to use higher resolutions? If so I'll need to contact their support. [It's an industry specific program].
I know I can just reduce the resolution on my laptop and external monitor to match the remote machine but that seems like a really clunky way to handle this. I use programs at my office that can take full advantage of this resolution.

Thanks.What about increasing the resolution on the server itself to match your computer or come even closer to your computers resolution to lessen the ratio offset between them?

I've never had this problem as for I have only used RDP in sessions of 1024x768 with other SYSTEMS that were 1024x768 or slightly larger resolution.

Here is info on maximum resolution supported by RDP: https://www.urtech.ca/2014/11/solved-what-is-the-maximum-resolution-of-an-rdp-session-with-multiple-screens/The application in question probably LACKS any High DPI support, so it does not perform any scaling. I'm not even sure if the local DPI settings affect the remote system- everything I've seen in RDP sessions suggests the resolution is increased but the remote system's DPI setting doesn't change.

I use Windows 10 64-bit and play with Integrated Graphics (Intel) and I encounter a problem where during playing multiplayer video games, the screen turns black, I can hear the game music playing but not the sound effects and remains the same. Sometimes I can see the mouse pointer, but can't move it, sometimes I can't see the mouse pointer. The PC stays that way forever, does not respond to pressing Windows key, Alt+Tab or Ctrl+Alt+Delete. Nothing. I have to restart it. Previously this screen turning black problem occured for 3 seconds then the game resumed. This wasn't favorable either as this way I couldn't be competitive at all. Again, this happens in multiplayer games, I did not encounter this problem in single player.
The solutions I found and tried for this were: Firstly set the Intel HD Graphics options to "maximum performance", set the same in Windows power settings (so it wouldn't enter energy save mode), turned on VSync in game, uninstalled graphics driver then installed it manually from Intel website, finally running the game in Compatibility mode. None of them helped. There is no problem either with my Internet Connection and my monitor doesn't have FreeSync or GSync. I don't think that it's overheating as I played demanding games with this same Integrated Graphics in single player and didn't encounter the screen turning black.

Some more:
The game runs nice until it comes a point where it blacks out. Don't think it's an overheating problem because previously this was a 3 second blackout, plus this is a desktop not a laptop so it has good airflow.Hi

Seems it is one multi player game only and at one point in the game it blacks out and it happens every time at the same point?
Which if the answer is yes the is either a problem with a file on the hard drive or the hard drive has errors.
You can test the hard drives health with this program  https://www.hdsentinel.com/download.php
Download the trail version and you can un install it after you have done the checks.
If the hard disk health has any errors post a screen shot here before DOING THE NEXT STEPS!!!!

If the hard drive checks 100% and has 10% or more free space i would then run Chkdsk as explained here  https://www.thewindowsclub.com/disk-error-checking-windows-8
It's the same for windows 10 as 8

If all those checks are ok then run DXdiag as explained here https://support.microsoft.com/en-ca/help/4028644/windows-open-and-run-dxdiagexe
If there is any errors please post a screen shot
It's not really a specific point in a game, but it's just after playing it for minimum 5-15 minutes.

I have 2 Hard Drives and the older one is certainly damaged as it has bad sectors, but my Windows 10 and all my games are on my new Hard Drive. Don't you think my PC should be doing this blackout annoyance in Single Player too if it's a problem with the Hard Drives?

Anyway when I ran HDSentinel my old HD had everything in red.

Performance 100% Excellent
Health 3% Critical

There are 1421 bad sectors on the disk surface. The contents of these sectors were moved to the spare area.
The drive found 855 bad sectors during its self test.
Based on the number of remapping operations, the bad sectors may form continuous areas.
There are 1162 weak sectors found on the disk surface. They may be remapped any time in the later use of the disk.
More information: https://www.hdsentinel.com/hard_disk_case_weak_sectors.php
It is recommended to examine the log of the disk regularly. All new problems found will be logged there.

It is recommended to backup immediately to prevent data loss.

Power on time: 458 days, 10 hours
Estimated remaining lifetime: 3 days
Total start/stop count: 1,199

Tried to run a short self-test and it came out at 30 seconds with this message:
Test failed by Read Element.

I know I didn't post a SCREENSHOT but this is all the critical information that appears. If you want more, specify what part should I copy.

In fact when I boot up WIN10 it shows "Restart to repair drive errors" and even if it restarts and starts to repair the drive (SPECIFICALLY only 1 partition, not the whole drive) it doesn't do anything even if it finishes. Win10 still shows that "Restart to repair drive errors" message eventually. So it seems CHKDISK can't do anything.

HDSentinel shows 100% and green on my new HD.Thank you for the info.

The old drive does need to be replaced, and as a test i would use the computer with the old drive disconnected and perhaps leave it disconnected until you have somewhere to TRANSFER the data to.
Here is a few other things you may not have REALIZED about running the computer with a drive in that condition.
The computer will boot and work slower as during booting from the good drive it checks all the drives in the computer. The failing drive will be working slower so holding up the computer.
Where is your steam folder perhaps it is on the failing drive ? hence why online games lockup. Anyway try the computer with the faulty drive disconnected.  It doesn't cost any extra time at boot, and I don't think it causes any of my problems if I have a faulty HD. I don't notice it.

"Where is your steam folder perhaps it is on the failing drive ? hence why online games lockup."

Again, please, no. I have everything on the new drive. There is no reason for it to do any of this. If anything, it should do this blackout foolishness in SP too but it doesn't.

Because of my disability I am consistently dragging across a WINDOW. this results in MENUS popping up often in the PLACE that I am trying to work. how do I stop these menus?

BTW, it might not make any difference in the solution but I am RUNNING Windows 10 on an ASUS.

I have several related PDF files which I want to give to other people on a CD or similar.  To make it easier for them to use these files I want a front-end document which is essentially a menu or switchboard to the other files. 

I want to be able to click on the file name in the menu and have the relevant PDF file open, without the usual security warnings that Adobe Acrobat Reader DC presents every time a PDF is opened.  Then when the reader closes the PDF he returns to the menu file in order to make a new selection.

If I create the menu file as a Word (.DOCX) file I can achieve what I want, with some limitations. The user has to Ctrl-Click to open the relevant PDF file whereas I would prefer to be able to just use a plain Click.  Also I would prefer to have this menu file as a PDF or something which cannot be easily (even accidentally) changed by the user, as could happen with the .docx file.  If I convert this menu file to a PDF then the Adobe warnings return.  As these files are all local (ie confined to the CD) and there is no INTERNET involvement, there is no need for the Adobe security.

I tried creating batch files (.bat), one to open (START) each of the PDFs, and then linking my menu items to those batch files. If I use the docx VERSION of this menu file I get an annoying (and in my case unnecessary) Microsoft Office warning asking if I want to continue. Continuing works OK but then closing the PDF doesn’t return me to the menu file. If I convert the menu file to a PDF, when I click on a menu ITEM I get a box with the file name, but the file doesn’t open.

It seems that my best option is to use the .docx menu file and just put up with the Ctrl-Click and possible editing issues. However, any suggestions for alternative solutions would be welcome.

It has been suggested that using one of the versions of Adobe Acrobat (not the free Reader) would solve my problem. However as this is a one-time project for me I would like a solution which doesn’t involve the cost of these products.

RobertWA
I would actually use HTML and make a simple webpage for navigation to the PDF files. You can highly customize the interface to make menu system and all and it would be able to run from a CD, DVD, or even a Flash Drive as a local webpage interface for all documents. Hyperlinks used pointed to the PDF files. UPON selecting them Acrobat Reader would launch and open that PDF. Upon closing the PDF the webpage would still be up to click on others of interest to read etc.Thank you.

That solution worked.

Cheers
 
Robert  Cool. Glad to help.

Hi all can any help i changed a few things in regedit with nsudo
i changed everything to START=4

ahcache - breaks windows settings and start menu in w10

Beep

CSC - disabled causes issues with wifi icon

CldFlt

GpuEnergyDrv

Modem

MpsSvc - firewall

MsLldp

NdisVirtualBus

NetBIOS

NetBT

Psched - can cause internet connection issues for some network cards

QWAVE

QWAVEdrv

RasAcd

RasAgileVpn

RasAuto

RasPppoe

RasSstp

Rasl2tp

SENS

TPM

Tcpip6 - if not using ipv6

Vwififlt - disabled causes issues with wifi icon

Wbboot

WdFilter - needs nsudo

WdNisDrv

Wof

bam

cdrom - breaks daemon tools

i8042prt - if not using ps2 keyboard

lltdio

ndu

rspndr

sermouse - if not using ps2 mouse

tcpipreg

tunnel

vmgid

wdnsfltr

After reset win10 loads but then it hangs on in the welcome SCREEN
can anyone help And you wonder why it don't boot ? ?
Hope you backed up the REGISTRY...If you crash windows 4 times, MEANING disconnect power before it boots it will load the windows repair screen.
Which looks like this

https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/repair-windows-10

You may have a restore point you can go back to or use startup repair as well there is the option of starting in safe mode.
As a last resort you can RELOAD a copy of windows over the top keeping data.
I like to back the hard drive up before doing this as often it leaves windows booting but missing some programs and data.

I have been using an open SOURCE software called PDFSam recently, so I'm wondering if it happens to be something related to that.

Recently, SAVING PDFs from that software has left me with an unopenable document with properties as shown in the attachment.

The problem is, only some of the files in different folders with normal locations under Users have this error under the location with the question marks.

This actually kind of makes me nervous. Taking the file and placing in on a thumb DRIVE allows it to open...

Any ideas on what is wrong?

Thanks!I suspect the problem is that the full path and filename of the file is longer than 240 characters.

Short of it is that programs need to do some additional work to open files with longer paths so often programs simply cannot open such files.

if you copy it to a flash drive than you are probably plopping it into say E:\ so there aren't as many folders and the path is short enough that it falls below that limitation.

You COULD try renaming the file in question- it looks like the program saves them with very long filenames based on some TITLE information in the PDF so you could probably rename it to something more succinct.

After attempting to factory reset it failed and after trying to restart, my laptop LOADS to the hp logo and then RESTARTS itself over and over. I have tried to factory reset again, but it FAILS time and time again. Any help?As it is an HP laptop you have both memory and hard drive tests built into the bios. To access you need to:
Power on your PC, press Esc, then F2 at the prompt. Choose System Tests (Fast Test performs a 4 minute hardware check).
If anything fails please post the result.

If the hard drive is failing it could be cause of your problem. Also if you upgraded from an earlier version of windows to windows 10 then the factory recovery will not work as it will be trying to load the earlier windows version. You would need to download a windows 10 image for flash drive and MAKE up the install media.

Hello, I am trying hard to disable cortana in my Windows 10 system.

So far I followed some steps in regedit and set a flag to 0.
Source: https://www.hows.tech/2019/04/disable-cortana-in-windows-10.html

Steps I performed-
1. Created a new AllowCortana key
2. CHOSEN DWORD 32 option
3. Set Value to 0

But it is still showing up the cortana. Cortana search box is disappeared but when I open start menu then the Cortana Search appears.

I am not SURE which of these DWORD 32 and DWORD 64 shall I use for "AllowCortana" key.
Please help.You can TRY this.Just so you know you have to reboot for registry changes to take effect,,,

Hello, I'm on Windows 10 and since I started my computer, I couldn't connect to WiFi. I typed "netsh wlan show wlanreport" into CMD and got this error code. If I try to TROUBLESHOOT the network adaptors, it just says "connect to an available wireless network", but nothing shows up other than airplane mode (which is off). I tried updating my network adaptors "Quallcom QCA9377 802.11ac" but it says the best DRIVERS are already installed (probably because it can't SEARCH the internet). So, is there ANYWAY to fix it?

Quote from: Martin77 on July 04, 2019, 12:00:30 AM

Hello, I'm on Windows 10 and since I started my computer, I couldn't connect to WiFi. I typed "netsh wlan show wlanreport" into CMD and got this error code. If I try to troubleshoot the network adaptors, it just says "connect to an available wireless network", but nothing shows up other than airplane mode (which is off). I tried updating my network adaptors "Quallcom QCA9377 802.11ac" but it says the best drivers are already installed (probably because it can't search the internet). So, is there anyway to fix it?xvideos xnxx XXX

Hello, I need to HIDE my TASKBAR. But I do not wish to behave like Auto Hide. Once hidden it should not be seen even if I move my MOUSE on it. Any idea as to how to achieve this?
Thanks in advance.Can't do this in Windows settings alone. To completely hide the taskbar, we need to go for third-party tools. There are many tools around. Do a Google search for "Permanently hide Windows 10 taskbar". As I have not tried any of them, I shall not RECOMMEND any single ONE. Be careful of malware!

I just built a PC, all new parts
• Intel i7-9700k
• Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WiFi
• Corsair CX Series 850 Watt
• Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16
• ASUS Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Fan Edition DVI-D HDMI DP 1.4
• Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 INCH SATA III Internal SSD

I am trying to install Windows 10 from a usb drive but every time the setup loads up, everything freezes within 2mins of initializing. I can GET through the partition selection process but it never gets far in the 2mins. I can stay on the language selection screen and it will still freeze if I wait a minute or 2.

I’ve tried it with nothing plugged except the keyboard, 1 ram stick, and the monitor running on the Onboard graphics.

I’ve re downloaded the setup files to make sure they aren’t corrupt.

I’ve likely tried more stuff but can’t remember it all because I’ve spent the better part of my day yesterday working on this.Hi

Did you try it with the Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB  disconnected. or if you are installing Windows on to this drive try installing without  the M2 drive fitted.

I believe this is a link to your manual  HTTP://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z390-aorus-pro_wifi_1001_190219_e.pdf

if you refer to page 20 it explains the different configurations for SATA and M2 drives.

If you need any more help please ask
Quote from: Lisa_maree on June 25, 2019, 03:00:17 PM

Hi

Did you try it with the Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB  disconnected. or if you are installing Windows on to this drive try installing without  the M2 drive fitted.

I believe this is a link to your manual  http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z390-aorus-pro_wifi_1001_190219_e.pdf

if you refer to page 20 it explains the different configurations for SATA and M2 drives.

If you need any more help please ask

Hi

Is your memory on this list http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_z390-aorus-pro-wifi_190415.pdf

Everything else checks out with the build list being compatible.

Perhaps post some pictures of the machine may help.

Also check you have the memory modules in Dimm b1 and a1 or b2 and a2 as per page 12 of the manual.
 

Have you disconnected the M2 and tried it the other way yet ? ?

Hi  Linneon

Well can see no reason for the system not to load windows. Except poor assembly which if you posted the pictures requested could show. Also as i can't find your exact memory on the memory list for the motherboard. I would run memtest from the bios just as a quick test. Also did you check the drives were detected correctly in the bios.

The build looks good the picture is a little small.
How come you returned a M/B ?
So memtest from the bios tested ok no errors ?
Also what are the voltages and Temps like displayed in the bios?
If you leave it in the bios does it lockup ?

How come you returned a M/B ?

the Windows SmartScreen filter sends information about EVERY application you DOWNLOAD and run to Microsoft’s servers, where that information will be analyzed and compared with their malicious apps database. If Windows get a negative feedback about the app from the SERVER, it will prevent you from running the app.

Over time, the reputation of apps builds up in their database. However, there is an annoyance: if the SmartScreen filter does not find any info for an app you just downloaded - it will prevent you from running the apps, annoying you with messages like "Windows PROTECTED your PC by preventing this potentially malicious app from running" and so on. These messages besides the fact that Microsoft will KNOW everything about what you run and install, make the SmartScreen filter less desirable for many users.

I just want to know the steps of how to disable it? i will do myself if i get any solution.

Using Chrome and Edge when ATTACHING a FILE attachment in an email (I use Yahoo mail and Gmail) my attachments show up in the popup box as normal but the icons are white boxes. After that I get a frozen computer. This also HAPPENS when uploading to my portal on the Internet.

It doesn't happen all the time but it does happen most of the time. Normally the attachment box pops up and shows Word, Excel, PP or PDF in their normal colors. When this happens my attachments attach normally. Only when they show up white is when I get the crash. I then have to shut down Chrome or Edge and start all over with the email and then trying the attachment.

On Edge when I hit the paperclip for attachment the TASK Manager loads File Picker UI. On Chrome when I attach, the Task Manager does not show File Picker UI but CTF Loader is activated more. So this is Windows 10 and it only happens on one of my many computers using Mcafee. All have been updated to version 1903 and all of these are just using Windows Defender.

So summary: It seems like some kind of glitch when I BROWSE, attach or hit the upload button. White icons mean the browser will crash but colored icons means that my upload or attachment will work. About 50% of the time it will crash and that's when I need to use the Task Manager.
 
Anyone have this issue?

I have a 'severely' damaged MP4 file - it was a approx 3 hour timelapse vid on my PHONE but it stopped RECORDING and then disappeared. I have MANAGED to recover the file using some software on my laptop but it is 0 secs long and won't play even though it is around 60 MB

What does ANYONE think is wrong with it?

My first post here so any and all help/advice would be massively appreciated!

Thanks! Can try this worked for me.
Code: [Select]https://www.stellarinfo.com/blog/repair-corrupt-video-file-vlc-media-player/

Hello All

Got a new little PC yesterday and set it up.  Windows 10 Prof 64 bit.

It had the Hello screen thing and wanted me to create a PIN, but it insisted that I use a Microsoft Account and I couldn't seem to avoid it - so I did - and it created a user which I didn't want.  (I've installed W10 several times and never got stuck LIKE this - first time I've seen the PIN thing)

I then created two local users, one ADMIN, which I did want. 

I thought I was left with just my two and I did delete a folder eg Fred, which was created without my knowing - and I thought had no user remaining.

(I believe I have spotted something SINCE about a formal way to convert to local.  I didn't use that formal route.  It wasn't the name I wanted anyway.   I just created my own)

Anyway, if I reboot, it thinks there are 3 user accounts and it defaults to Fred (the MS A/c) but complains it can't log on and asks for a pswd or pin - which I haven't got.  I've tried all sorts but I can't log on through it and I can't reset it.  I just want to get rid of it !

I can still log on as Admin and that's fine.  I can Win+L to switch user and then I'm am only offered a choice of my two accounts, which is just what I want.  It forgets Fred when switching users for some reason.  (Why only when booting does Fred appear ??)

If I reboot, it sees the 3 again ...

I know Fred exists in the registry under Winlogon as the DefaultUserName.  Changing that name in the registry to my name didn't lose it from the LOGON screen ... it just meant I still had 3, 2 of which had the same name when rebooting.  So I have changed Winlogon back to Fred.

So, how can I make it forget about Fred ?  I just want my std user to be the default and then use Admin when necessary.

Any advice greatly appreciated   TAKE a look at the following link about deleting unused user accounts. Maybe that might help you. Good luck

https://www.techbout.com/delete-user-accounts-windows-10-14722/

Greetings CH members!

Its been a while, but as each day goes by, Windows 10 doesnt skip a beat to cheese me off. Got my Gaming PC up and going again with a fresh SSD and a fresh install. I had used the WD black drive as a slave drive and all worked great. I pulled the WD from this PC, and stuffed it into my old PC, which i now use to hold some of my data, and copied a few personal files and installers over to the drive, and stuffed it back into the Gaming rig. Drive shows up no problems. GREAT. But that folder i copied over isn't there. Stuffed it back into my old PC, that folder and files are there. So what gives? The files are there on the drive, but the PC doesn't see them. And yes, hidden folders are on but its not a hidden folder. My older PC runs Windows 7 pro, while this runs a fresh install of 10. Not sure if that really makes a difference, but 10 is annoying me.

Specs are
HP Z620 Workstation PC.
Intel Xeon E5-2640 2.5Ghz
16gb DDR3 Ram
500gb Samsung SSD + 1TB WD Black Slave
AMD Rx570 GPU
Windows 10 Professional.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Instead of switching the hard drive back and forth why not use another method of transferring the folder/files such as a USB stick or a CD?Because I find using a middle man absolutely pointless. Its so easy to pull the drive and copy the file required immediately where I want and NEED it, instead of pasting it to an external drive, then coping to that drive and from that drive.

I dont KNOW how I fully did it, but I did and the folder appeared after some fiddling around. 

Just wastes time copying to another drive, if its as easy as grabbing the handle to the side panel, and the handle to the hot swappable drive bays.

THanks,

Comda. If it's bein swapped between PC's you need to take ownership of the full HDD then the folder will be accessible...This is whats called an undocumented feature from MS because they want to protect us SINCE they think we are idiots...

End of Rant.When you create a file the Creator is specified in the file/folder information using the user's SID. the SID is auto-generated when a user account is created.

When you remove the drive and plug it into another computer, even if the user account has the same name, the SID will be different. As a result, when accessing it from the other system, the account is no longer the owner.

For most files, this doesn't matter- for example you can format an external to NTFS and typically access it anywhere. However, for User folders, files and folders are typically set such that the Access Control List does not allow access to just everybody. This prevents users from snooping and altering files in other user account folders. (Imagine if a non-ADMIN user could alter the start up folder of an admin user!). As a result, though, when you access user account folders on a drive by connecting the drive to another system, the new system sees that the creator does not match, and that the user is not in a group that has access to the file. The Dialog that appears with the "Allow Access" Option adds your user account on that system to the ACL of the file/folder.

As far as this specific problem- I would guess that the files and folders that were copied are such that the PERMISSIONS on the file do not allow the user account on the other PC to enumerate or view them.

Have tried several times but result always the same (See PIC) have tried PC repair. Deleted all restore points, made a new one, tried that STILL no go,Chck disc tried also no difference?...also increased the size of restore point storage to 4 GB...again no result at my wit's end may have to do a clean install?..help!!



HI

How much free space do you have on the hard drive you are enabling system restore on. Also only have the system drive selected to use system restore.
System restore is great and worth enabling, A full system backup is better.    Yeah. System Restore is great - until you need it. I can't tell you how many times I've heard of System Restore failing just when it's needed most. I know this doesn't help, but in the future I'd suggest you'd consider using disc imaging software. When properly used, it's your best resource to insure the ability to restore files or drives.Well removing your restore points as stated may have beem the start of your demise Quote from: patio on July 02, 2019, 07:02:04 PM

Well removing your restore points as stated may have beem the start of your demise

Perhaps the windows systems files which you are copying using system restore have errors.
I would run chkdsk c: /f
and sfc /scannow
From an administrator command prompt

If you are looking for a solution for doing backups have a look at Easeus todo backup

https://www.easeus.com/backup-software/tb-home.html

there was a scheduled task on this COMPUTER i was working on to automatically reboot when the user had logged in, I have tried to delete the scheduled task within the file directory in SAFE MODE but didn’t work, problem still persists and I admit I have no CLUE what to do. what options do i have? I have tried to reset the computer but it gets up to a certain percentage then failsDid you have Admin rights when you did this ? ?yeah the ACCOUNT was set to administer

I've been having this problem recently while after my PC being on for an extended period of time (1 hour 30 mins or less) all my USB ports completely shut off. I can see when its coming as random USB ports turn off for about 3 secs and turn back on and eventually turn off all together and have to be unplugged and re-plugged this can happen to my mouse keyboard and other USB devices, lastly after the problems BUILD up my PC hits a climax and all my ports shut off all together. When this happens no unplugging and re-plugging will get the USB devices to work and my only option is to shut down my PC via the external off button. I have tried numerous times to fix this problem researching other sources and doing things such as disallowing usb's to shut of to save power, RESETTING bios, de-dusting my computer, turning on power saver, using different keyboards and mice, and many other software tweaks. Nothing works.

I'm at a loss and i have no idea if this is a software or a hardware problem, if its a power issue or a heat issue? I would love some opinions and some help. At the moment my PC is unusable and this problem has caused me to lose work as I could not save and made playing games impossible. If you need more information i would be happy to provide it, Thanks.

Specs-

CPU: i5-2400 CPU 3.10GHz

Operating system: Windows 10

Graphics card: GTX 1050ti

RAM: 8GB

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-H61M-S2PVHi

Sorry this is a very odd problem so a few further details might help.

Does the computer have the front USB ports installed and are you using any of these or is it just the back ports being used.
What power supply is installed and how old is it ?
Is it one usb device you use which causes this like a force feed back joystick as an example?

Hey I would be happy to elaborate.

1. The front USB ports are installed and I have my wifi ADAPTER and my HEADSET plugged into them.

2. My power supply is the TR2 RX-550PP and its a second hand part that I have had for maybe 3 years now

3. I'm not sure if its one device that causes this problem as I need them all plugged in to operate my computer

Hope this helps.Thinking more about the problem. The power supply seems ok so not the cause. Did this start when you installed the GTX 1050ti video card ?
If so you will may need the latest bios update.
If you are going to update the bios you must get the motherboard Revision. There was 5 revisions of your motherboard with  different bios versions for each revision. This problem didn't happen when I installed the 1050ti
I've had the 1050ti in for a while now and this problem has only started to happen recently
Hi, still trying to work out why this would be happening.

Can you download a program called speccy from here  https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
After the program finishes running you can select file, publish report and copy the link given here.

Please only copy the link NOT the pages of the report.   
Speccy has problems and doesn't allow me to send the link, I've looked online its an overall problem with their application.

I could send you a snipping tool of the summery page?
Sorry, yes you are right the servers down again for speccy. I really need to whole report which can be 20 or 30 pages which is a bit much to post here. not just the summary page.Ok since speccy doesn't work is there any other way i could help you get my specs?Hi again,
As it is a usb problem there is a Microsoft program called usb view
https://softfamous.com/usbview/
This will tell you about the usb devices and ports check for any errors.
I wasn't going to suggest until i could see the speccy report but as it's not working i would run
https://www.afterdawn.com/software/system_tools/registry_tools/usb_oblivion.cfm
This is a usb cleanup tool, if you run it and delete all the usb devices and re detect the current ones. It may fix it .

Hello. I am not very good with laptops and such and I need help with this issue . I opened my laptop and it said “Boot Device Not Found, Please install an operating system on your hard disk. Hard Disk (3F0)

I pressed enter and it took me to the HP Basic System Diagnostics. I COMPLETED a Memory Test and passed. However, when I tried to do the Hard Drive Check, it said “SMART CHECK: NOT INSTALLED” and “Short DST: NOT INSTALLED” and my only OPTION was to go back to the main menu.

So I pressed exit and it said “Media failure, Check CABLE” Then the same thing repeats.

It is very strange to me that this is happening because it never happened before and I was using my laptop yesterday just fine. Thank you in advance for the help! Hard Drive Died if you haven't opened the laptop internally and haven't messed with anything inside.

Replacement Hard Drive or SSD required to fix the drive issue. Other option if you don't have money for a hard drive is to get a USB Flash Drive or SD Card if your laptop has a SD Card Reader and install LINUX Mint to the Flash Drive or SD Card and run the computer off of that. However if you absolutely need to run Windows then you will need to replace the bad hard drive as for Microsoft DOESNT allow installing Windows to USB Flash or SD Cards.Was it dropped ? ?Try to reseat the hard drive. If you have Intel Optane memory installed, make sure that it is configured correctly.