Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I like to place an account such as checking in the right portion of a Windows 10 Pro split screen and Quicken Deluxe in the left portion. That scheme worked well for years and still does USING Internet Explorer. However, starting with the advent of Edge, Quicken takes over the entire screen in the spit-screen mode.

I complained to Microsoft about Quicken and Edge not PLAYING nicely twice. The SECOND time I complained Microsoft responded with a NICE message saying the problem had been found and fixed. Unfortunately, the problem has not been fixed, and the Chromium version of Edge has been released.

I also complained to Quicken about the split-screen problem involving Quicken and Edge. The support person listened to my issue and promised to have the issue investigated. There has been no further word from Quicken, and the problem still exists.

So, I'm using Internet Explorer where necessary to work around the split-screen problem. Chrome causes the same split-screen problem, possibly because it and the current version of Edge are derived from Chromium.Try FIREFOX.

Hi,
I got  a BK Predision oscilloscope no.1478.
I don't use a grd wire I just use the positive and it gets ac signal
and a SQUARE wave from my signal gen.
But I cann't get the volt from a dc battery.I just can't find a display
on it. I don't know how to set it. I set the volt to 10 volts and trying to
display it on the oscilloscope and nothing.Hi

If you want to measure a DC voltage on an  oscilloscope you NEED to use the ground wire and the center of the probe. If you don't use the ground wire how are you going to get the return path for the voltage.
Also the input COUPLING needs to be set to DC By default it is set to ACThis is a hardware question.
Here is a Google SEARCH:

how to use oscilloscope to measure dc voltage

You will find videos and other links.
In order for ANY measuring device to measure DC voltage, it needs to have a reference to ground so the ground connection is absolutely needed.Thanks all, I got it figured out. My a channel won't put a display line on computer.
The b channel will and I can measure volts dc while I'm on both channels.
But they both seem to work on ac cycles and square wave ok.
It took me a day to get aquainted. You were a great help.

The computer I'm on has 1903 and except for aggravating multiple pages to go through on awakening from sleep mode, it's doing OK. The other PC of mine has the 1909 version and it has given me fits and have just now gotten it to act somewhat normal.

My question is, I'd rather not have to go through the problems I had if I go to version 1909 which is supposed to be an improvement over 1903. I think I would be pushed over the edge if I had to go through the personalization process if 1909 changed my settings. I see where it can be rolled back to an earlier version within 10 days but you know how that stuff works sometimes. Are any of you having trouble after GOING to version 1909 in windows 10? You can only delay these updates for a certain length of time or am I wrong about that?To delay upgrading to windows 1909 -- have a look at the following link: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-delay-windows-10-19h2-update-while-still-getting-updatesI will delay installing Windows 1909. I’ve heard that many many folks are having issues with OFFICE Outlook email. some work perfect while others you have to try open, then try open again and select SAFE mode then chose outlook profile, it will not maintain your pass for System LOGIN, nor will it hold profile. so one in safe mode do not close all day, just let it minimize then next boot SOS.Thanks for the responses, the only thing I was worried about was it changing some of my settings. I don't use outlook so that's not a problem anyway. I just wanted to get some opinions from anyone that has updated to the latest 1909 version and had more problems then it was worth, plus if their settings were changed. I blocked the updates until I get input from more folks on here.

I am using current version of Windows 10.
I have a dual monitor thing with my old Del 745 PC.
Works good for me. My one issue is the backgrounds.
Look here.

Google has some images for dual monitors, but I do not understand how to do the setup. Please point me in the right direction. Show how I GOT lost. 
I USE Ultramon I have 2 different size monitors & use different backgrounds on each.

Hey all. Looking for help with a the creation of a Batch file.  I have MULTIPLE (100's) of FOLDERS that i have placed a *.ICO (each one is different) file that I would like to use as the folder icon.  I would like to create a Batch file to put into the folder and, when double clicked, would change the icon for that folder to the one I placed in the folder. Any and all advice would be appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.Sorry, I do not have a neat answer.
Here is an item of interest:
https://gallery.technet.microsoft.com/scriptcenter/Set-FolderIcon-0bd56629
The above uses Power shell instead of PURE batch. 
 
EDIT: The program is not trivial, it requires additional effort to make it do what your want. I would guess that pure batch would not be any better. Maybe I am wrong about that.  Hi 
You can take a look at this batch script : Customize_Icon_Folder.bat Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 01, 2020, 11:47:16 AM

Sorry, I do not have a neat answer.
Here is an item of interest:
https://gallery.technet.microsoft.com/scriptcenter/Set-FolderIcon-0bd56629
The above uses Power shell instead of pure batch. 
 
EDIT: The program is not trivial, it requires additional effort to make it do what your want. I would guess that pure batch would not be any better. Maybe I am wrong about that. 

Hi 
You can take a look at this batch script : Customize_Icon_Folder.bat

My daughter has an HP laptop she bought last year and when we first set it up it gave her the option of having WINDOWS 10 in 'S' mode, which is a mode that forces you to only use apps and programs through the MS store as a security measure.  You were supposed to be able to switch out of S mode at any time (though once you did you couldn't switch back).  Problem is when follow the steps to switch out of S mode, I go into the settings, under activation, the store link there takes her to a page that says she can upgrade for $99.  If I try to install an app not available in the MS store, it tells you you can't and there is a 'learn more' link that takes you to the same upgrade page but this time there's a 'Get' button but it's greyed out.  Her account is listed as the administrator as well, just FYI.

I THOUGHT maybe I could do a reset of windows, but in the control panel under 'backup and restore' it says 'backup and restore Windows 7' which is odd as Windows 10 is definitely the OS and like I mentioned she just bought the PC last year. 

Suggestions?  I've been Googling for over an hour and read numerous tips that supposedly solved the problem, but so far no luck.I recently helped my sister switch a laptop she purchased out of S mode.

From the Microsoft support website (Pay attention to the part in bold below):

• On your PC running Windows 10 in S mode, open Settings  > Update & Security  > Activation.
• In the Switch to Windows 10 Home or Switch to Windows 10 PRO section, select Go to the Store. (If you also see an "Upgrade your edition of Windows" section, be careful not to click the "Go to the Store" link that appears there.)
• On the Switch out of S mode (or similar) page that appears in the Microsoft Store, select the Get button. After you see a confirmation MESSAGE on the page, you'll be able to install apps from outside of the Microsoft Store.

I've posted this question on the ThinkPad forums with no useful answers.

I have a new ThinkPad P52 Xeon E-2176M, 32 GB MEMORY, NVMe SSD Samsung 970 EVO. Pretty much the fastest laptop you can currently get. The setup was redone from scratch (not the Lenovo image) with the x64 1809 master image. Hibernation is DISABLED. Turn on Fast startup is disabled.

The problem is that when I close the lid, it takes on average 5 seconds from the time the lid is closed to the time the system is asleep (when the ThinkPad red led starts flashing). AND the reverse is also true. It takes 6-8 seconds from the time I open the lid to the time it prompts me for my password.

My 8-year-old MacBook Pro goes to sleep and WAKES in less than 1 second.

Does anyone know why and is there anything I can do to SPEED up these actions?The first thing I would do is update Windows to version 1909. Just run Windows update and go through the whole annoying process until there are no more updates to install.

If the problem is still there, make sure you've installed any updates from Lenovo specific to your laptop. For example, power management updates might directly address this issue:

https://pcsupport.lenovo.com/us/en/products/laptops-and-netbooks/thinkpad-p-series-laptops/thinkpad-p52-type-20m9-20ma/downloads/driver-list/component?name=Power%20Management

My older computer has Windows 10 1809 version and while copying and pasting one flash drive to ANOTHER, I find the error "this app won't open' or something similar.  When trying to open PICTURES which is all that's stored on the drive. I took the flash drives to my newer computer which has Windows 10 1903 and everything opens just fine on both. I've tried running troubleshooting methods to no avail. What to do?Quick answer. Use another flash drive.
Alternative. Try DVD instead.
I could do that but am curious why one computer will copy and open flash drives and the other will only copy them. Quote from: jbubb on February 21, 2020, 05:03:54 PM

I could do that but am curious why one computer will copy and open flash drives and the other will only copy them.

hello all,

IF i can remove win 7 from my pc, can i replace it w/ win 10 ?

easy QUESTION - extremely hard to do for me...


happy new year !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Why would this be a hardware question. Clearly it should be in the Windows forum. Please use some common sense when posting. I'll move it this time.If you bought your windows 7 then you should be able to upgrade to windows 10 free.If you do an upgrade, you can choose whether or not to preserve all your installed programs and data.  If you remove Win 7 first (you'll NEED to format your disk to do that), you'll start with an empty disk and after installing the OS, will need to reinstall all of your programs.

In either case, you need to download the Microsoft Media Creation Tool to install Win 10: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10allan,

i assumed i would have to erase the hard drive/motherboard to start anew...

there used to be a site that offered to download win 10 to win 7, but i can no longer find it.dear prejorative,

i saw a site that offered to download win 10 free, but that was a LONG time ago.
is it STILL available and legit ?

thank you.See Here...thank you sir patio genius !
Yes, you can. You upgrade from Win 7 to Win 10 for free. Quote from: myming on February 23, 2020, 05:12:30 PM

thank you sir patio genius !

I would like to a create a macro that changes three sentences of text into three different styles – for example the
The article titles should be style ‘Heading 1’ – sentence one
The AUTHORS of the article should be style ‘Emphasis’ – sentence two
and the pagination of the article should be in style 'Intense re...' - sentence three

(Please note I’ve used these styles as an example. Actual styles being used are in-house created ‘styles’)
So, I’ve ‘recorded’ this action (see below), when running the macro it is only changing the first sentence to the requested style, my other INSTRUCTIONS are ignored – so BASICALLY the Macro does not recognize my other instructions – which should be that after each carriage return there is a new sentence which should be ‘STYLED’ accordingly.
Is this something I’m able to do with a macro or am I being to ambitions? Please note - I cannot dictate what the format of the original text is, as I’m BRINGING in data from various sources.

My Macro reads:
Sub BulletinStyle()
'
' BulletinStyle Macro
'
'
    Selection.Style = ActiveDocument.Styles("Heading 1")
    Selection.Style = ActiveDocument.Styles("Emphasis")
    Selection.Style = ActiveDocument.Styles("Intense Reference")
End Sub


Any help is appreciated
Regards,
Wilma

I use Windows 10 Pro - 64 bits and I have the following problem: the welcome screen changes the expression "Welcome" to "Preparing Windows", then, after a LONG time, my desktop appears totally uncharacterized as if it were your first use, even without normal access to the DOCUMENTS, Images, etc. folders. The problem RETURNED almost always, so I formatted the HD and reinstalled Windows 10. After two weeks of normal use, to my surprise, the problem reappeared. Any solution?Hi
If you run speccy from here  https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy
Run the program
Go file publish report
And then copy the link to the report in your next post
I suspect you have a problem with your Hard drive which the speccy report will show Sounds like your User profile is corrupt...

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/14039/windows-fix-corrupted-user-profileYou may wanna try this:

• Boot you windows in Safe MODE and see if you are still facing this issue.
• Now go to Run Command
• A dialog box will open type “msconfig”
• Locate and select the Boot tab and select Safe with Minimal as option.
• Restart Computer

I've been doing searches for info, changing passwords and trying different things all day and made things worse instead of better. I was attempting to try and get my COMPUTER to auto sign me in without a password. It has always asked for a pin BTW, I now get the wrong username with the message saying your username or password isn't correct no matter what password I use. with an OK box below it. I click on OK and two usernames pop up in the bottom left corner, each a bit different than the other and after clicking on the top one, it asks for my pin and is happy when I enter it. How did I go from getting the correct username asking for a pin to having to click on another username (one of two) in the bottom left corner asking for a pin? I guess I should be glad I can still sign in period.OK. I think I may have stumbled on an answer to my problem but it kind of shook me a bit. In this article, it shows you how to run as admin in order to change things and when I finished the procedure, where there were two separate login names on the lower left of the login screen was an admin name. After clicking on it, it started acting like I was opening up windows for the first time and I shut the computer off with the power button to stop it. I had already sweet talked Microsoft and McAfee into re-installing their programs and not too lonh ago and didn't want to take the risk of losing them again. I don't believe they would go for it the second time around. Listed is the article.

https://www.logeshwaran.org/2017/01/fix-incorrect-user-name-in-c-users-windows-10.htmlAn update on my situation, I did click on administrator which I was skeptical of and was right. It erased a document on my desktop and began the process of establishing the parameters of windows 10. Fortunately, I had done a system restore point and restored everything back to where it was. I'm still thinking about doing it again just to see if it boots using the right username. All I lost was Chrome's speed dial which wasn't very populated and that document that didn't have anything important in it. I can always do a system restore and go back if I don't like it.Create a new user.
I think I've tried that which led to multiple issues but I may have not done it right. I looked up how MANY user accounts I had and it SHOWED two, both admins but one with my email address. There are two more that show up when first starting up and I haven't found a way to rid them. I'm amazed how a person can go from an aggravating situation to a more than an aggravating situation BTA, I could screw up a BALL bearing.

Let me explain the full situation of what's happening. On startup, my PC shows  my name,and a password box and above them saying that this is an incorrect username or password. After clicking OK, it shows another name which I added and a password box. On the left bottom of the sign in page, it has Administrator two times and one showing my name and email. After choosing the latter, it asks for a pin which I enter and it signs me in. Originally, when starting up it showed my name and asked for a pin. All I wanted to do in the first place was to get automatically signed in when starting up. I have had to spend way too much time on this mess which should have been resolved with the procedure that dictates allowing one to be signed in without a password having to be entered.

Setup: two recent high spec laptops, both Win 10, both using Windows Mail.

Microsoft Home and Business 2019

One works correctly.

The other has always had intermittant poor screen handling in the mail text WINDOW, occasionally missing showing words or part words, sometimes this corrects itself in SECONDS, or when further typing, other times I have had to force a screen refresh. This issue is ONLY with Windows Mail. other text handling (like typing here or in WORD) is perfect.

Now it has also stopped printing mail when requested.  The mail if copy/pasted into Word prints OK. The printer "jogs" as it does when it is receiving a file, but no print and print queue is empty when checked.


The other laptop has no issues showing or printing. They are the same VERSION,

Mail Version 16005.12430.20136.0

How can I repair/reload Windows Mail without affecting any other prog/app please? If the accounts are not imap then BACKUP the mail first.

In windows 10 you can repair most programs by going to Add remove programs, Apps , Select mail and Calendar , select advanced options,  Select Reset this will reset mail to the default settings.

Hello,
Don't ask me why, but some STUPID reason we decided that we needed a new Microsoft USER account.
We created a user and an administrator account.

My husband puts all his FILES under C:, Users.
I put all my files under "Documents".

His survived.
Mine didn't … all my folders and documents are gone.

I've tried:
*  LOOKING in the recycle bin
* Looking in hidden folders
*  looking under DIFFERENT users
* searching for files under windows explorer.

I believe that windows did not make any updates to make this happen.

Please, if you have any suggestions they will be very welcome

Jennifer

Hi,
I am using windows 10 on my laptop.
For the last 15 days, I am having trouble using it. As SOON as I open any file it automatically gets DELETED. If I download any thing online, upon opening it gets deleted instantly.
I have used many antivirus scans, malware bytes, windows virus and threat feature but no luck. What can I do to solve this problem.
Ur help will be appreciated,
THANKS Quote from: Noman Ahmed on February 05, 2020, 06:18:15 AM

Hi,
I am using windows 10 on my laptop.
For the last 15 days, I am having trouble using it. As soon as I open any file it automatically gets deleted. If I download any thing online, upon opening it gets deleted instantly.rentacar hosterpak ctrentacargirlshostel
I have used many antivirus scans, malware bytes, windows virus and threat feature but no luck. What can I do to solve this problem.
Ur help will be appreciated,
Thanks

I am getting bsod critical process died . I tried everything to fix it. Now when I boot it says  no operation system installed. My HDD is SHOWN in bios and was wondering if HDD or motherboard is failing.Any suggestion would GREATLY help. I also reset bios to default.   I updated windows 10 9 days ago and it started to be very unresponsive 1 day ago .when OneDrive loaded I noticed that windows wasn't responding properly.. When I end tasked OneDrive computer worked fine. One day ago the computer started to become very slowly so I proceeded to sign off and back on . The computer became black and I had to turn it off. After I started computer again I GOT the bsod critical process died. I tried everything up to few hours ago I got no operation system installed.Sounds like the HDD is failing...
RUN the diags from the HDD manuf. site,Can't boot into windows no OS found.The diagnostics run from a bootable media you create... info on doing so will be at the drive manuf. site.

Hi,

1) W10 won't allow ThunderBird to install, red pop-up APPEARED.  Made a screen capture, W10 would not let me save it.  Is there a solution?

2) While copying several GB- 4-6000 files & W10 gave me an error stating "a FILE to long to copy in the ORIGINAL folder.  That  may look easy to find...not if you have scores of ORIGINAL scattered thru-out approx 6000 files.  One would that 40 yr after we put a man on the moon & returned him safely software engineers would be able to add a few lines of code of the 47,632,568,702 files in W10 saving it to the DOWNLOAD folder or the desktop, whichever is EASIER. 

Regards,

Neither method worked??

klxdrt

Is this a bash on Windows ? ?...title states you couldn't install TBird...now it turns in to a man on the moon episode...

Hint...when moving / copying large amounts of data do it in increments as there are OS/RAM freespace limitations etc.
BTW they went to the Moon with less power than is in your cell phone.

I've looked up and tried every method I can find and it still won't work. I dislike very much having to push the power button on my tower to bring it out of the sleep mode. I know this may sound like a wimpy,  puny or lazy EXCUSE but my tower is behind my monitor and besides being a nuisance. is uncomfortable to reach. You can search Google and find this is a common problem.
In some cases there is not solution you would like.
Here are  videos found On you tube:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=wake+up+computer+with+keyboard

Does that work? It does not for me.  I haven't found much that I haven't tried but tried some things I hadn't seen yet but still no luck in getting them to take. I think I'll look at my other PC and see if I can find some little SOMETHING that's different. One thing I noticed though that was different on my PC was when using the Command Prompt. After typing cmd, instead of asking to run as admin, it went straight to the prompt and showed my user name instead of system 32 as in the video. I proceeded to enter what was required to allow sleep wake up but it said it couldn't perform it because of an error. I started to enter system 32 as in the video but haven't yet. Kind of getting discouraged.To get Admin level on cmd go to Start /Accessories /Command prompt...rite clik it and select run as Admin...

PS... to speed this up you can pin a shortcut to cmd on the Start menu...thats what i did.Thanks, I'll give it a try. Just tried it, no accessaries on my computer?Start/All programs/Accesories/Command prompt...I'm on 10 and you're on 7 which is different I guess. It's windows accessaries on mine but you still have to type in command prompt which takes me back to my username and not run as admin or system 32. OK, here's the scoop. I wasn't paying close attention to the video that goes through the Command Prompt. It's click start and then type in cmd,  right click on cmd and run as admin and things go as it should. I've restarted my PC, we'll see if it works.It finally went to sleep but still wouldn't wake up with the mouse or keyboard. The thing I've noticed is that my mouse (optical) isn't lit until the PC is powered up, my other PC has a wireless mouse and fires up as soon as you move it. I changed the PC I'm on to a wireless keyboard a while back with a wired mouse which shouldn't matter I would think. Both PC's keyboards and mice are attached to the computer by hub or direct USB slot. I'm worn out messing with this stuff.Are you still looking for a solution to your problem?
You said the reason you want to do this is because you don't like reaching around and hitting the reset button. That sounds like your lazy. But I could be wrong, it might be that you have some physical limitations that make it difficult for you to reach around and press a button. If that is the issue, there are a couple of workarounds you can do.
One solution requires that you get some help the somebody that is familiar with working on personal computers. The power reset button is really a low-voltage low-power pushbutton that is powered by a special circuit in the power supply that I was a small amount of power to be fed to the button. This is how the button is able to activate the system when the power is off, because the power is not completely off because a small amount of power is being fed to the pushbutton assembly.
The simple way to solve your problem would be to extend the pushbutton using a piece of ordinary bill wire and another pushbutton. You can find parts suppliers that will sell you a replacement power button, connector and wire for under two dollars. But the wire is not quite long enough for what you want and you have to add another section of bill wire to it or any kind of twisted-pair wire that you might have around. To do this you need to have some familiarity with opening up the case and locating the place where there is a connector for the pushbutton wire. From what you said I don't know if you have ever got into the inside of a personal computer. If not, find somebody in your area that knows how to do it. It is not a hard job.
There is another option that is used by some people with disabilities. This is where they control the power on with a power strip that has a power switch on it. But you'll need to have some specific instructions on how to use the power switch on an a power strip to turn on the PC when it is been shut down.
My reason for posting this is it other people read these posts in might wonder if you ever got the situation resolved and they would like to know how you did it. If you found a solution that works for you; please share what you learned with other people who are reading this thread.

I hope you'll reply.In answer to part of your response, I'm not as lazy as much as being aggravated because it won't do the same as my other PC. The instructions on how to accomplish this fail to remedy the situation and that tics me off as well. The procedures are straight forward enough but don't seem to work and I am the type that is like a dog chewing a bone, I put way too much time chewing on that bone before giving it up. If I find something that works, I'll gladly share it.Thank you for responding. 

Let me out line some of the REASONS why you're not getting answers from other members. The first thing is you have not described accurately all the equipment and resources you have available to you.

First of all when you know the exact model number of the computer you wish to power on without reaching down and hitting the power switch button.
Next, it would be helpful to know what is the other computer that the works the way you expected to. Again, the exact make and model are needed.
Why is this? Because the manufacturers don't always stick to the accepted standards in the industry and even the same manufacturer may make variations on established designs used by that manufacturer. This drives everybody crazy trying to figure out why some hardware does not have certain special features.
There are a set of established protocols for power control. One of the specific features has to do with power interruption. If the power from the main circuit of your house or office becomes interrupted, the PC goes dead and this might result in some damage. Or maybe not. In either case, there is a protocol for what to do when the power comes back on. Not all desktop computers have this feature. With a laptop it would not be a matter of concern, because the laptop will automatically switch over to battery power and run on the battery until it becomes discharged.
With a desktop PC the only internal battery runs the clock and it does not have enough power to run ANYTHING other than just the system clock. So when you turn it back on it will have the correct time and date.

Now if you're hardware does have complete set up for this kind of thing, it provides another way to turn the computer on after it has been turned off. There is one setting where computer will turn back on if the power is restored. However, the default setting usually is to leave the computer turn all even when the power is restored again.
The difficulty here is the lack of standards among the computer manufacturers and even the use of standards even among computers of the same brand. So that is why we need also specific information about your hardware in order to tell you what's going wrong.
As I mentioned earlier, most desktop PCs, maybe I should say all desktop PCs, have some way of supplying a small amount of power to the reset button. The reset button is a momentary button, it does not latch into on or off position. It is like a doorbell. It just gives a momentary impulse and that is enough to start the computer up. But that only works if there is a standby that provides standby power for the reset switch. I to the said power switch. Wait, I should said power button. One thing that is confusing is picking out the right name is for the different components. I think the proper name is momentary power button. It is not really a switch that goes into a nonphysician or to an authorization and holds the in one of those positions. That kind of pushbutton is called unlatching button and has some kind of mechanical way of holding the button in one position or another. It is kind of like the mechanism used in a ballpoint pen to extend or read track the point of the pen.

Using the search YouTube and find how to replace or repair the power button. Using that information you could create an extension cable for the power button and put it where you want. This is a hardware solution that, I think, works on any modern desktop computer. I believe the power control is now always a momentary pushbutton that connects to the motherboard which connects to a special standby connection from the power supply. Anyway, you can extend that connection and put another power button connected to the same terminals on the motherboard. For just and will the power button and extend the wires over the long enough to where you can reach them. The voltage level on that power button is very low and does not present any kind of hazard. However, to make technical, it violates some of the standards for desktop computers. You're not supposed to have unshielded wires coming out of the computer. Not that it was liable for the computer, but the computer will cause interference to standard radio stations.
Anyway, that is the easy and sure fire hardware method of doing what you want to do. Just extend the power button outside of the case and find a location on your desktop for you can put the power button.
Yes, in theory your supposed to be able to do it with the right kind of software set up and the right kind of hardware set up. The problem is that not all computers have the right kind of hardware for doing power on from the keyboard or the mouse. You can do power all, but you can't do power on if there is no standby power. What I'm trying to say is some desktop PCs do not provide standby power to the keyboard or to the USB connector. So you have to know something about the design of the motherboard. If it does not supply standby power to the keyboard, this not much you can do. The keyboard communicates with the computer only through software. There is no hardware switch on the keyboard that directly ties into the power supply.
I hope this try to clarify what the problem here.
EDIT: Here it is on You Tube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOTC9zEcATIOK, here goes. Both are HP Pavillion, one came with Windows 10 and one (5 years older) was upgraded from Windows 8 to 8.1 and finally to 10. Each has a different version of Windows 10? I replaced the hard drive in the older computer last year with an almost identical drive that was removed. The newer one is maybe two years old. Both have an indication of standby power, one in the top front above the power button, the newer one on top which is the power button. Neither comes back on after a power interruption.  The newest one is a 3.0Gz 64 bit, Intel core i5, the older is a 3.3Gz 64 bit Intel core i3.
PS: The newer one has windows 1903 build 18362.592 and the older one is Windows 1809 build 47763.173 if that helps.The options you need to adjust are in the BIOS area.
Otherwise, look at the You Tube video about extending the power button to another place. That will work on any model.I'm sorry Geek9m but the replacement of the power button isn't my problem. I can reach the one I'm having trouble with fairly easy. It's why I should have to do it is what's bugging me. Both computer towers are at the same level as their monitors. I placed them that way for easy access to the CD?DVD drives and also easier access to all the attachments. I used to have the older computer on the floor sitting on a piece of particle board but found that aggravating if anything needed to be unplugged or changed in some way. Besides that, I felt it's a cleaner environment not being on the floor. My modem is on the floor which I wish wasn't but my router is on my computer desk. I appreciate the advice but doing the power button location change is kind of a waste considering that it would take away more space on my desk than it's worth. I'll just deal with it until I find out what's up. Again thanks for your responses and being so patient dealing with my petty complaints.

i have been trying to install win 7 on my pc, wich allready have win 10.
First i tried to make a new partition on my m.2 drive, in the hope that i COULD install win 7 on the partition, but win 7 couldn't see my m.2 SSD, no matter what drivers i tried to put into the Boot Usb, so i gave up.
Instead i tried to install it to an old SSD. so i formatted the SSD MADE my bootable usb, and it worked. now when i boot my pc, i can PRESS F12(boot options) and choose to boot from the SSD with WINDOWS 7 installed.
when i do tho, it says one of my disks needs to be checked, and it will GO through the checking process and restart, i can then press F12 again, and it will check it again.
I can still boot my win 10 without any problems, but i need win7 for an old program.
If anyone have some advice to this, i'd love to hear it.

Motherboard       - auorus x470 gaming 7 wifi
m.2 SSD            - Corsair Force MP510 M.2 SSD - 960GB
SSD with win 7 i - 500 GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD

if you need more info, just ask and i'll find

I was going to try it out and my preference for storage was a USB drive. It said a CD, DVD or a 3.0 USB drive could be used. My question is, can a 2.0 USB be substituted for the 3.0?Yes it can but at around 20 MBs, backing up more than say 20 gb of data would take a long time on USB 2.Thanks Lisa, I appreciate your reply.While your probably all set, just wanted to state that I USE Macrium Reflect and connect 2 drives to the SATA ports and clone that way for fastest clone from 1 drive to other.  If your running a LAPTOP it cant be achieved like this unless you have an eSATA port or a laptop with 2 hard drive bays and USB 3.0 then would be best option.

For all my desktop builds after they are built up completely, I add a 2nd drive into them and clone the original drive to the 2nd drive of equal or larger capacity, and then I shut down the computer and disconnect the original drive and it remains in there as a master working drive so that at some point in the future if I wanted a clean build again I could connect it and push a clean cloned images back to the 2nd drive and then shut it down and disconnect the 1st drive again. After a period of a year, I would even reconnect the master original drive by itself and PERFORM all microsoft updates etc, so that each time in future that the drive is used to clone to another it doesn't have to get like 97 security updates because, its brought forward to stronger and stronger security with each time I bring up the original drive by itself and only thing i do is all updates and then shut down and unplug the original drive and connect the 2nd drive only to SATA Power and SATA Communication.

* I would backup my personal data to cloud storage or external media before overwriting the 2nd drive too as a precaution for anyone who decides to go this route like me as it will wipe the 2nd drive clean and replace its contents with the original drive each time a drive to drive clone is performed. So if you want your data, you will want to back it up to external media or cloud storage first.Wow, Dave, that's some heavy duty lifting. Me and the wife backup anything worth saving via flash drives. I was TAKING the advice of Allen by trying to use Macrium Reflect but I'm in the coast down mode in my life and just trying to hang on to life's shirttail. I just didn't want to buy EXTRA flash drives if it wasn't necessary. Thanks for the in depth reply anyway."coast down mode"...i kinda like that concept.

Tried running CGminer on my second desktop and after 10-15sec I get a message saying that it's stopped responding and will close. I'm using the same batch file I use on my primary desktop, just without the custom switches tossed in. the OS is windows 7 home PREMIUM on and intel i5.Post the batch file...
Mining COINS on a home PC is a good way to waste money on the ELECTRICITY bill, unless Mom and Pop are paying it, and that might change if it takes a big hike from mining.
Just SAYIN a batch file won't be the same for 2 different PC's

Hi Guys,
I am running Windows 7 home 64 when windows 10 upgrade came out as a FREEBIE I upgraded but did not like it so went BACK to 7 does this mean I could reupgrade now  and would Microsoft recognise my previous activation or have I missed out ? also LITTLE CURIOUS about windows 10  software discs I can buy from amazon for £70 approx. but looking at PC World theirs is £115 are they both the same or is cheaper inferior.
Thanks in advance
JabbaIf it's still the same PC Win 10 will recognise the activation.

Quote from: Oshey on January 19, 2020, 09:57:59 PM

Dd u notice any weird change in the Windows date and time after you discovered this issue

Hello CH! Been awhile!

Okay, so some background. I've had this PC for only a couple years, 3-4 maybe, pre-built from one of those companies that prebuilds for you (can't remember name, dad suggested it). For note, here are the specs:

MSI X99S SLI Krait Edition motherboard
i7-5820K 3.30GHz 6 core
16GB Ram
GTX 970

From what I remember, it ran decent enough in the beginning but I vaguely recall some complaints. Still as time has gone it's gone down hill and it's incredibly sluggish compared to the beginning, and even worse during games and such. Over the past couple of months, I've been researching guide after guide of tweaks and addressing the poor performance and also a 100% disk usage problem that I had noticed. While I've had some improvement, overall it's still slow. It boots up slow, transfers data slow, updates slow. I can still play most games with good framerate, although some stutter quite a bit and loading into maps and matches takes me forever.

I've watched my cpu temps under load, and I've never seen them being way too hot.

As I mentioned previously, disk usage has been a problem of regularly hitting 100%. I have spent a lot of time researching that specific problem and have had minor improvement, but not enough and not without some sacrifices that shouldn't have to be.

Pressing start/windows key sometimes doesn't work properly or often takes very long. Right clicking for context menu is the same and file explorer goes non responsive as often as nuns pray. I even have had times where loading UAC takes very long. In times where I've had super low performance, I've opened resource monitor and just watched under the disk section and and I find often that when I have some disk writes (particularly Chrome to the cache and System VOLUME Information) is when performance is slow, and when those finish, things SEEM to noticeably better, but never as good as they were in the beginning.

I do make sure my PC is often updated (I'm on version 1903) and I've reset my PC a few times over the years now (for one reason or another) and it's never seemed to have helped. I have run chkdsk and DISM, I have checked S.M.A.R.T. status using command prompt, it said my drive was OK. I have used Windows Defender to do scans, have never found anything and that doesn't surprise me, I am quite careful. I have only ever updated my graphics drivers though and none else (besides when they do via Windows Update).

All this is what's made me wonder, could I just be in desperate need of an SSD at this point? I plan on buying one this weekend for the improvement regardless and because I need the space, but I wonder if this is what's bottlenecking my PC and why it would do this after 3 years? This PC currently runs off of a single 1TB mechanical HDD that I've had SINCE day 1. If not, is there anything you could recommend? I have tried almost everything ever suggested and had no luck.

I've posted this thread to other locations but almost all the replies don't bother reading and just tell me to buy an SSD and my problems will go away. Others have said that buying an SSD will only degrade it faster and mask the issue, not fix it, but weren't willing to help further investigate and try to resolve.

So I come here to the place that helped me when I was a panicked kid with a dying PC and a million QUESTIONS in hope we can finally find a resolve to this. Sorry for the long post. Please let me know if I need to run any diagnostics or provide any more info that I may have forgot. I really appreciate any help I can get and hope we can get my PC running great again.Reading your post, here are some things to do.
1) Do a defrag with your hard drive. Use diskspeedup. Turn off windows 10 built in defrag. With diskspeedup, at the main menu, go to tools, priority, high priority. Go to options. In the general options section, uncheck everything except for stop vss. Go to defrag, uncheck everything. Go to schedule, uncheck option to run. go to optimize, check everything. Run software, allow at least 2 to 3 hours to complete task. After everything is done, go to boot time defrag, checkmark option, and then under method, choose everyday boot. Before rebooting your computer, turn off any screensavers that you have or power down options under power settings. Reboot computer, and then turn off boot time defrag in diskspeedup.

2) You could upgrade to an ssd drive, but the cost is quite a bit as 1 tb size ssd drives are well over $100. I don't think that the price is worth it when you could get a mechanical drive for a fraction of the cost.

3) Download ccleaner and go to tools and then STARTUP. Here you can choose what programs start up with windows 10. Only use ccleaner if the program in general doesn't have an option to start with windows 10 under options or preferences.I forgot to add, when using diskspeedup, after applying options, use the analyse button to scan the drive and then use the black arrow next to the defrag button to defrag and optimize the drive.You said:
I've posted this thread to other locations but almost all the replies don't bother reading and just tell me to buy an SSD and my problems will go away.

Right. A good SSD is rather privy and it requires some skill to integrate it into your Windows OS. You don't have to do that unless you like the idea.

A good idea is to buy a replacement HDD for what you have.  Install the O S again and install programs on the new drive and compare performance. It costs less than taking it to a shop.

I have noted that a fresh full install on a clean drive can help performance. 
Quote

and also a 100% disk usage problem that I had noticed.

This PC currently runs off of a single 1TB mechanical HDD that I've had since day 1.

So on MAY 1st, Microsoft forced an update that apparently added a bunch of features and ended up causing my computer to freeze soon after restart and after troubleshooting straight up crash at the login screen.

Needless to say, I reinstalled the OS with the option that keeps your files and went about my business, reinstalled all my stuff and downloaded files from my back up.

Then a day later I had the same issue again. I installed Malwarebytes, CCleaner, did scannow, did a bunch of maintenance and again I had a couple of days of this not being an issue.

Now it's started up again with more and more frequency, and I'm afraid it might be a hardware issue. for a stint I thought it had to do with Discord which seemed to EXACERBATE the issue until I turned the accelerate hardware option off, but then the client ran like *censored* and it crashed when running a video in the client.

Now it's doing it without Discord open, with the second to last time happening when Firefox was running a video, at which point I unplugged my old external and ran check disk on my SSD and HDD, and the last time it happened right after I ran the check disk on the HDD and opened CrystalDisk. The only thing I think these things have in common is that they were working hard resource-wise, which doesn't really narrow anything down.

I'm scared, I LOST my place in the Camp Fire half a year back and this machine is one of the few things I was able to save. It has become my main source of income as I do drawings and DATA entry FREELANCE while trying to find work in a flooded job market. I cannot afford replacement parts.

I'm hesitant to do anything more than Paint Tool Sai and Microsoft on here at this point because I'm concerned that the next crash will be my last. I appreciate any help in trying to figure this out.

I was running Windows 7 PRO on my Dell OPTIPLEX 780 x64 bit and recently did the free Windows 10 upgrade. But now the PC is running incredibly slow. Before downloading and installing the upgrade I checked to make SURE the system was compatible and able to handle it.
Was told that it might be because the Windows 7 operating files were not deleted and the Windows 10 upgrade is running "over" the old Windows 7. ()
Does anyone know the solution / fix to this problem? Has anyone else had the same experience? Quote

Was told that it might be because the Windows 7 operating files were not deleted and the Windows 10 upgrade is running "over" the old Windows 7. ()

Not sure if I'm in the right place for this question, but I was looking through my photos and I see that all of my videos have been "whited out" (RATHER than blackened out) and I don't know why. I clicked on one to play it and you can hear stuff in the background, but no picture. I haven't done anything, changed my computer in any way and last time I looked, about two weeks ago, everything was there. I have a Dell Inspirion, i5-4460 CPU 3.20GHz  3.20 GHz, RAM: 8.00 GB, 64-bit operating system, running Windows 10. Some of those videos were important to me as I did them a year before my dad died and it has a lot of him on there. I do have an external Seagate drive that I backup pictures to, but I haven't done it in a while and am afraid those videos are not on there. Besides that, when I plug the Seagate in, I don't really know what to do with it.  I know, I shouldn't even be operating a computer!  But if anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it!
Since you can see an icon representing the video and when you click on it you hear sound, it's obvious the videos are there.

Do you know what application is assigned to play videos on your machine?  Maybe something got corrupted in that application.  You could try reinstalling that app or installing a different app.Maybe the Windows Media Player got damaged .
There are many alternatives to the Windows Media Player
https://www.techradar.com/news/the-best-free-media-player
Many like VLC Media Player as an alternative.
It is free.
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/
 I wouldn't think that anything is damaged. I did get one video to play.  I have two photo programs. One is Photo Gallery and the other is Windows Photo that came on the computer.  Neither program is playing the videos.
Just wondering two things: 1. When you try to play videos, do you see any error message or does the video just load to the player you're using and just stutter?

2. What FORMATS are the videos in? (Don't think it really matters, but just curious anyway)


And also, I like the klite codec pack. Choose either the basic pack or the standard pack (only difference is that standard pack comes with a media player with the pack that you can try but otherwise no difference. The others have more than what you need for playback and isn't needed anyway). It installs the major codecs needed for most (if not all) common video filetypes.

Good luck, let us know how things go
When I try to play videos, I see no error message, the screen is just white and I can hear the talking in the video. What do you mean by format? I don't know. I'm somewhat computer stupid.  But...I just HAPPENED to notice I have ArcImpressions and I have three videos on there. All three played just fine. I'm thinking something with an easy fix has happened. Tomorrow, I plan to call the people that work on my computer, tell them the problem and see if they can fix it remotely. They've done that a lot for me and they are VERY reasonable with their charges.
Quote from: debby on December 23, 2019, 02:56:37 PM

What do you mean by format?

Please let me know if these questions need to be posted elsewhere.
 I have an older laptop with Windows 8, and my intentions are to update to Windows 10. Im not savvy with computers and/or the terminology used, so please bare with me. Due to my lack of knowledge Im somewhat skeptical and paranoid about computers.
 I use my laptop, with the internet, for very basic functions compared to most Im sure. Some of the following I use are;  Wordpad, emails, information searches, just a few forums such as this one, news updates (including some video clips), also sometimes I will plug my phone up to put pictures on my COMPUTER for various reasons, and thats about it. I dont do any constant videos, games, MUSIC, etc...
I WANT to first create an original backup of my Windows 8, and everything with it using a usb flash drive, then I want to completely wipe out everything and install a version of Windows 10 as basic as possible.
1) Does it sound like Im on the right path so far...suggestions ?
2) Does someone offer a completely safe, and very basic version of Windows 10 ?
3) Is it more safe to purchase/order a physical backup of windows, rather than download from the internet ?
4) If possible, I dont want to download any versions with several advertisements, or other applications that I will never use, hence question 2.
These are all of the questions that I can think of for now, but Im sure there will be more.
Thanks A full backup of Win8 to a flash drive or an external is a good idea...i've SEEN many people wipe their drives saying "oh there's nothin i need"...then regretting it later.
I would suggest Macrium Reflect or Easus to go for the backup...both have Free versions.

After that just use the Media Creator Tool to get the latest ver. of Win 10...it's still Free also so anyone who says you have to pay don't listen to.

After the backup has been done there is no reason to wipe the drive...just run the Win 10 setup...

Best of luck and let us know how you get on...Just wanted to say that If you have a PERFECTLY valid windows 8 key, you should be ale to clean install windows 10 for free with it.

Your valid key would be converted into a digital key for windows 10 that is associated with your pc allowing you to reinstall windows 10 as many times as you like with said key.

See here: https://www.howtogeek.com/266072/you-can-still-get-windows-10-for-free-with-a-windows-7-8-or-8.1-key/ It's best to leave the 8 install in place...then the info is automatically entered...Just sayin.Thanks for all the help.
So hopefully soon Im going to try and perform a usb backup on my older Windows 8 laptop with all my saved favorites.
I dont know if this might help but I have a new laptop with Windows 10, and Im going to be starting another thread about that one, but was wondering if I would somehow be better off to copy the new computer Windows 10 to the old one, or if thats possible
No...get a fresh DLoad from where i said above...

My laptop is an HP envy 15 NOTEBOOK 15-q002la

The Bluetooth sometimes stop working UNEXPECTEDLY, all of the things that I have with Bluetooth just get disconnected.

In order to give you a little bit of context: I thought this was happening for a new Bluetooth keyboard I just install, but actually, this was happening before with my headphones. I look upon the internet and it says this could be caused by windows update but if that's the reason I actually don't know how to solve it since the solutions listed by Microsoft and other forums are just useless or too basic.

While trying to do something I just opened the hp help assistant and I check out there was a Bluetooth driver update, I installed but the problem still persist.

Another thing I tried is to disable the Bluetooth device from the device manager. this temporarily solves the problem(sometimes) because I can enable the Bluetooth again and connect the keyboard, but after a few hours: it stop working again.

The events registered by the event viewer are listed below in the same order:

1.- The Bluetooth HID device is out of range or not RESPONDING. Origin: HidBth, Event ID: 2

2.- Windows cannot store Bluetooth authentication codes (link keys) on the local adapter. Bluetooth keyboards may not work in the system BIOS during startup. Origin: BTHUSB, Event ID: 18

3.- The local adapter does not support an important low-power controller status to support peripheral mode. The minimum required compatible status mask is 0x2491f7fffff and 0x1fffffff was obtained. The functionality of peripheral role of low consumption will not be available. Origin: BTHUSB, Event ID: 34

Sorry I can't reply to anyone yet as I can't figure it out using Hope yet. That may take me sometime to do.

The most useful knowledge I got was that I can multi boot my Windows 10 stick and my Hard Drive and to go to the BIOS/CMOS
Setup and verify boot ORDER options, I didn't know you could multi boot.

The links provided by Geek were useful but as this is a Windows problem it would be better if they contained links that start with
HTTPS://  not URL or end in URL. That must be his Unix links format. I got some links for free software from his WIKIPEDIA link.
 
The Suggestion by BC_Programmer about going to BIOS/CMOS Setup to verify boot order options, I will attempt to do soon.

As for some of the posts I have already backed up my important files so the Windows 10 won't wipe them out. My XP won't
link to any other sites except Hope, but I don't care any more as to why as long as I can Install Windows 10 on my XP.
Fortunately my Windows 7 Laptop still works, some times, so I could go to   those Links. But I plan on scrapping that Laptop
and buying a newer Refurbished Laptop with Windows 10 already on it on Good Friday. That would only cost me $30 or $40
more + Tax and save me a lot of aggravation, worth it I think.

The main problem with all of this is Microsoft. They don't provide any Info when they sell you the Windows 10 software and
USB stick. Just a useless 20 or so pages booklet about different languages. Some useful Links or a couple of pages about
installing the Windows 10 software and using their stick and Multi-Boots.
Thanks to all posters, but some were ridiculous, I don't have a smart phone anymore as they are a pain. Just a push button.
Thanks again, Gable.
Whoops, I wrote about buying a newer refurbished Laptop on Good Friday and I meant this Black Friday. LOL.  This is from dictation.

I can give you a longer answer by using my speech to text program. Otherwise I make a off a lot of spelling errors because of my handicapped.
By the way; speaking of handicap you can get a copy of Windows 10 upgrade from Windows 7 if you are handicapped person that needs the accessibility features found in Windows 10. That provision is still available from Microsoft.
Now back to topic. As you can see from the Wikipedia article there are a number of different tools used for doing a multi-boat thing. Of the different tools you can get, one outstanding tool is called eEasy BCD. It is a commercial product that you can buy or you can use it for personal use for free. It can help quite a bit with figuring out how to adjust the Windows boot loader options. It is capable of booting both Windows and Linux using the standards that conform to Windows. However, it does not have as much power as the boot loader used in Linux.
https://neosmart.net/EasyBCD/

The best boot loader in Linux is the newest version of the GRUB boot loader. It is a free product and offers a great number of options, in fact it has too many options for most people even comprehend what it does. If it was possible to boot cricket Peter from a wet piece of spaghetti,  GRUB  would do it. It has all kinds of options that could hardly even imagine.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_GRUB

But you may prefer to use the Easy BCD program. Another free tool I have found useful is called n
it is called macriumreflect.
Here is the link:

https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree

The principal use of that program is to make backups of your hard drive by either cloning or imaging the drive. But it also has the special feature working can fix problems you have with the boot loader. I have used it a few times to help me with the problem with the boot loader. But I must admit it does have some limitations as to what you can do with it.
Presently I am only using Windows to triple boot between Windows 10, Windows 7 and Windows XP. MATTER of fact, I'm using Windows 7 right now to do my dictation because the dictation program is a commercial product that does not allow me to use it on several computers at once or on multiple instances on the same computer. So I only use it in Windows 7. Maybe someday all thinks that, but I'm not in a hurry.

Whenever I want to boot Linux I use a CD to bring up a version of Linux that I'm comfortable with. Often do that when I have trouble booting my computer I can fix it with Linux. I know that sounds strange, but Linux has a tool called GPARD that allows me to do some things with the hard drive that are hard to do in other programs. Specifically, it can guarantee there is an MBR that can be used by the Microsoft boot loader.

Another thing that needs to inventions is the fact that newer computers use a firmware that does not conform to the older standards used in personal computers. Specifically, the newer computers require a secure boot option to load up a operating system. Now you can defeat that, but is not always clear how that is done. It is a security feature and they don't really want everyone to know how easy it is to defeat that security feature, so that I can hard for people to figure it out. Of course, that the is and crooks will figure it out anyway. Somewhere inside of the BIOS firmware there is an option for turning off the secure boot feature. If you don't do that, some boot loaders cannot work at all because they don't conform to the new standard for secure boot. I guess you've already found that somewhere.
Here is the method I used for doing triple boot on my system. First thing I did was to make sure the hard drive I wonder to use was in good shape. So I would run diagnostics on it by using some type of an external enclosure or else hang the drive on the end of a USB adapter that allowed me to control the drive through the USB port. Anyway, I would format the whole drive and check it for errors make sure it was a usable drive.

And after that the NEXT step was to install windows XP from my CD and use my product key to make it a legal installation. After that, I would install Windows 7 on another partition and again use a product key to authenticate my installation.
After that was all taken care of, I would make sure there's enough room on the hard drive install another operating system. That means I would use some type of the disk partition software to move and create partitions. The one I most often use is called EASUS partition manager. It also is a product that you can use for personal use without the need to buy.

The last thing I would install would be Windows 10. This is a general rule for installing three versions of Windows. You start on a clean drive with the oldest version of Windows and then install the next version. I don't know what the limit is on how many operating systems you can put on one hard drive. You can even duplicate an operating system that you want and that is something I have done what I'm making test on something. At one time I had to copies of Windows XP on a system along with Windows 7 and Windows 10. At the time there are some can a problem I was having with XP and apparently I did solve the problem and now I forgot why I did it.

Anyhow, the basic recipe for a triple boot Windows system is to start with a clean drive and then install the oldest system first. That works for me.
Now the more difficult thing is try to recover old programs and data that you have on an existing drive. I never have been very successful about copying programs over unless they are that type of program. There are some programs that are called portable programs because they do not require a real installation. These are the kind of programs you can put on a USB drive and pull it out of one Windows computer and go plug into another Windows computer and it'll run just fine. One of these is Thunderbird portable, which I use for my email. That way I can check my email whether I'm inside of Windows 7 or Windows 10. Unfortunately, SUPPORT for Windows XP has dried up and there are a few programs that will still run with Windows XP unless they are themselves very old programs. You'll find that many companies now have stopped supporting XP and you have find out programs are available in the archives that will work on XP.
Another program that will work easily on different Windows versions is called Libre Office. It is compatible with all versions of Windows and it even has a portable version if you want to put it on a USB stick.

Another thing you need to watch out for when using very old computers is the limits on drive SIZE. This can be very confusing, because the computer will not speak up and say 'hey, that drive is too big for me.' Instead, you find out when you get everything installed and then things start messing up. It is a very bad experience to find out the firmware in your computer does not support the large hard drives now available. It can ruin your life.
https://www.linuxquestions.org/questions/linux-general-1/what-exactly-is-lba48-174457/

I have been using multiboot four years, mostly because I am such a slow learner that I'm just now catching up and figuring out how Windows 10 works. I spent in an ordinance amount of time learning how to diagnose and fix Windows XP on to find that I had to switch over to Windows 7 and then after that I had to switch over to Windows 10. Hopefully, Microsoft is going to stick with Windows 10 for a while. So they say.
By the way, another boot option is to have two separate hard drives on your computer. Almost all desktops have provision for a second try, but that's hard to do on a laptop computer unless the second drive is a solid-state device.
Of course, the second boot option has to be set up inside the firmware, that is the BIOS.

Okay, I think that's enough for today. Maybe this will be of some help to you 

How can you install .net 3.5 without internet connection or windows installation media. why is there not a full install package from Microsoft that doesn't use windows update to install the framework. There is ...DLoad it on another PC and run it...it's a standolone installation.
If it doesn't work yer doin something wrong...Here is a link to the download ( 231MB )

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=25150I'd guess OP is familiar with the installers. Their problem is because those installers *do not work* on Windows 10. This is because .NET 3.5 is now a component of windows itself.

If you run that standalone installer on Windows 10, you just get this dialog:



You can either download and install it via Windows Update- or not install it at all.

The only other option is to add it via Windows Features (Turn Windows features on or off) Which also requires either Windows Update, or some form of WIndows 10 installation media matching the installed version of Windows.



BC_PROGRAMMER is correct. Hence my delima. I have not been able to find a offline installer package that does not require internet connection or using the dism command and pointing at the installation media. Did you try his last SUGGESTION ? ?
Yes, but im trying to find a solution that doesn't require windows update or installation media.
Quote from: scomputer on November 25, 2019, 07:46:43 AM

Yes, but im trying to find a solution that doesn't require windows update or installation media.

Why are you avoiding the update process ? ?...just curious.

Ways to install .net 3.5 on windows 10:
1. https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/dotnet/framework/install/dotnet-35-windows-10
2. https://www.dragonblogger.com/install-net-framework-3-5-windows-10-offline/

Seems like you're trying to avoid the ONLY WAYS POSSIBLE to install .net 3.5
(I'm not finding a fully offline installer that requires neither internet, windows update or use of DISM/install media either, if there is one, and I would've thought if one existed, it would be much easier to obtain and seems like many Microsoft Answers queries exist but only points to those two ways anyhow)...

I reset my XP bootup to use a USB, which is the one that came in my Win 10 and rebooted my XP. This seemed to work going through several steps upto a Link step or something. Then it failed because it could't find the operating system. I'm not surprised, because I didn't boot from my hard drive. How can you boot from 2 places at the same time, that seems stupid  to me? It appears that I'm somehow doing things in the wrong order. Shouldn't I boot from my XP first and then somehow boot from the Windows 10 USB key? If so, how do I do that? Can anyone help me?
I'm a newbie to the Hope system and tring to use it is confusing me searhing for posts etc. I hope I can find my post again, lol. Thanks, Gable. It works only if you follow the instructions.
In short, the boot up thing has three major steps.
1. Firmware selects a media device that has some boot code.
2. The media device loads more code specific to the OS.
3. The  OS loader completes the process and puts the whole OS into memory.
Reference:
https://computer.howstuffworks.com/pc3.htm

Linux has the most versatile boot loads, because the Linux users are very clever. And they like to share with others just to feel good.
Microsoft-is not motivated to help you boot some other OS.
Learning how the Linux loader works can take weeks, even months to master.

Or, just follow the steps yu are told. In the order given
Here is just one of many tutorials.

How to Dual-boot Linux and Windows (on a PC With Windows 7 Already Installed)
Quote

he purpose of this Instructable is to set up your computer to dual-boot Windows 7 and Ubuntu Linux. Dual-booting is a technique which allows a single physical computer to run two or more operating systems

I reset my XP bootup to use a USB, which is the one that came in my Win 10 and rebooted my XP. This seemed to work going through several steps upto a Link step or something.

This seemed to work going through several steps upto a Link step or something

Note: The column MBR (Master Boot Record) refers to whether or not the boot loader can be stored in the first sector of a mass storage device. The column VBR (Volume Boot Record) refers to the ability of the boot loader to be stored in the first sector of any partition on a mass storage device.

I think the OP needs to do some more reading.
Here is stuff he needs to look at:

https://www.thefreecountry.com/utilities/multi-boot-managers.shtml

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_boot_loaders

As I said earlier,  Linux has more options.

Hello,

I have a Dell XPS 13, i5, 256gb purchase in 2012. I'd like to know if I should purchase a new one, or if the current one still has life in it> Attached is a Windows perfmon report I ran today, but I don't know what it means.

Thanks for letting me know whether my system might fail and I should get a new one, or if it's not having problems and I should keep it until it does?You NEED to run a memory test.
https://www.raymond.cc/blog/test-your-ram-with-microsoft-windows-memory-diagnostic/

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Home » Software » 3 Ways to Test your RAM with Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic
3 Ways to Test your RAM with Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic
Raymond Updated 3 years ago ...
Unfortunately KNOWING when you have RAM memory inside your PC that has developed problems isn’t as straightforward as you might think. It can manifest itself in many DIFFERENT ways and problems with your computer which don’t seem in the remotest bit connected with RAM, could in fact turn out to be just that.
... Home » Software » 3 Ways to Test your RAM with Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic
3 Ways to Test your RAM with Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic
Raymond Updated 3 years ago Software 5 Comments

Unfortunately knowing when you have RAM memory inside your PC that has developed problems isn’t as straightforward as you might think. It can manifest itself in many different ways and problems with your computer which don’t seem in the remotest bit connected with RAM, could in fact turn out to be just that.

A computer that fires into life and then sits at a black screen and doesn’t do anything else is a common symptom of a bad module which needs taking out or replacing. A Windows install that keeps failing while unpacking files from the disc could also be due to a memory error. Even problems relating to disk read errors which sound the furthest thing from memory issues as you could imagine, can be caused by errors coming from the memory.
Testing your RAM for errors is something you can easily do because there are a few free tools around that can help you out, and all that’s needed is for you to run the program and let it CHECK all your internal memory. Here’s a few different ways you can test your RAM for errors.  ...
Microsoft’s Windows Memory Diagnostic  ..
This Microsoft memory testing tool is a bit old coming from 2003 but because the method of testing memory is the same today as it was back then, it still works.
/

I am a VERY basic novice about computers, so when answering PLEASE keep that in mind! 
I have a Dell Optiplex 780 desktop pc. It had 4GB RAM and a 64 bit Operating system. It currently has Windows 7 Professional on it. Since they are finishing up with Win. 7 in January, I thought that instead of buying another pc (I always buy refurbished ones), that I would buy and install Windows 10 and put it on it. However, I have NO IDEA what all I need to do! I don't know how to uninstall windows 7 (is it even necessary?) if I get Win. 10? Is it just a matter of just getting the Windows 10 disc and following any instructions or what? I hate to chuck my current pc as it is really a good one, but in my case, should I just retire it and get another used pc with Win. 10 on it already instally. HELP!
Thank you!
bc Quote

I thought that instead of buying another pc (I always buy refurbished ones), that I would buy and install Windows 10 and put it on it.

HP Compaq Pro 6300 Computer PC Core i5-3470 Quad-Core CPU (3.2 Ghz) 4GB DDR3 RAM 250GB HDD DVD-ROM Windows 10 64-bit

Intel Core i5 3rd Gen 3470 (3.20 GHz)
• 4 GB DDR3 250 GB HDD
• Windows 10 Home
• DVD-ROM
• 1 Year Warranty
• Intel HD Graphics

Windows 7 support will end on January 14, 2020. If you continue to use Windows 7 after support has ended, your PC will still work, but it will become more vulnerable to security risks and viruses because you will no longer receive software updates, INCLUDING security updates, from Microsoft.

I would personally avoid putting Windows 10 onto your current hardware.  Even though the minimum recommended RAM for windows 10 is 1gb, I know from experience that having less than 8gb tends to make the experience of using Windows 10 suck big time.

Now is a good time to grab a replacement.  Dell are doing black Friday deals on refurbs anyway.     If you can get a system with an SSD too go for it. it's worth it.

Asus laptop with Windows 10. As soon as I plugged it in, I was prompted to go through a lot of questions to set it up, etc. One screen I barely had time to read, it was to allow Microsoft (I guess) to be privy to everything I do on the laptop (I think). I accidentally clicked Accept because the arrow was hovering over it and when I tried to MOVE it to point at Decline, it just clicked. I've never had a laptop and find it almost impossible to control/use the "mouse". I absolutely do not want to be spied on so can I undo this mistake as it wouldn't LET me go back one screen and change my answer, so to speak. I know there are places to click Off and No for privacy settings so if I do all that will this undo my initial Accept mistake?If you ever come back to see this message again, 

Quote

I've never had a laptop and find it almost impossible to control/use the "mouse"

One screen I barely had time to read, it was to allow Microsoft (I guess) to be privy to everything I do on the laptop (I think).

One screen I barely had time to read, it was to allow Microsoft (I guess) to be privy to everything I do on the laptop (I think).

I know there are places to click Off and No for privacy settings so if I do all that will this undo my initial Accept mistake?

Hello everyone thabks for reading this.

I have an asus laptop as i mentioned above which it wont start or enter bios.

It all started with the laptop turning itself completely off not even showing the shutdown screen or something just turnin off. I opened it again and after 5 minutes it turned itself off. Then after 3-4 times of doing this it just wouldn't boot back.
When i press the power BUTTON the screen is black it wont even show the asus logo but the light of the power is on. By the way sometimes i mean 1 every 3 hours of trying it starts NORMALLY and enter windows and do everything normally. But ive noticed the ram is decreased from 8GB to 4GB. Then i restarted it and went back at 8GB then i restarted it again and went back at 4GB and it stayed there couldnt change it. After being in a while on my laptop i trurned it off and decided to open on the next morning.

It didnt boot and know i'me here trying to start my laptop. First i thought it was my mobo dying but the laptop is exactly 1 year old. Then i readed a discussion that the person changed it's ram and updated the BIOS and it worked but the thing is that i cant enter the BIOS.

Also just to mention my laptop's HDD died or broke 6 months ago i dont know how and i changed to to a ssd.

Also i forgot to mention that before all of this happened i had a dual boot with Kali linux and Windows 10 but when it started turning itself off the dual boot just disappeared and now i deleted the partition of kali linux just to make SURE it isnt interfering on something at boot.

Thanks for reading guys.

Laptop model :
ASUS X541UVK


What troubleshooting steps have you taken? Have you tried re seating the ram? Also unplug from power, remove the battery, HOLD the power button down for 1 minute then put everything back and try to turn it on.

I am having a desktop Windows 10 computer delivered, but I have no monitor.. just HDMI TV.
The problem is I wont be able to SEE the screen, so signing in and selecting output is impossible.

Will the PC AUTOMATICALLY detect and default to the HDMI display if that's the only one it can choose from?
If not I'll have to get hold of a monitor just to select TV output.

ThanksThe issue with HDMI is proper drivers need to be installed for it to work...so hopefully on this pre-built they did it proper and it should pick it up eith no issues...
If not you may have to switch to Plan B.
Best of Luck.I wanna suggest a plan C:
- Plugin the screen into the PC
- boot the PC up
- Wait a few minutes until you're reasonably sure Windows is fully booted. A good indication is that the HARD Disk Drive indicator has stopped flickering.
- Use the Winkey+P to pick an output screen
Winkey+P is a toggle key, switches between four modes
1. Just the PC screen
2. Duplicate screens, your TV and PC screen will SHOW the same thing
3. Spilt screens,  TV and PC screen will each show half is NORMALLY there.
4. Just the TV screen


Windows 10, and HDMI ....... is a good match. You might be lucky, provided your TV has the necessary drivers in order to work with your PC.
I wanna suggest a plan D: borrow someones laptop and use that screen to set it up.
Aint gonna work til proper vid card drivers are installed...

I bought about 20 new 702 MB CDS and they have ruined 4 of them for saving or writing anything on them. They always eject the CD from the drive when FORMATTING them, saying Windows was unable to complete the FORMAT. Now my Win7 reformatted an old CD that I managed to copy 4 files to, leaving only the old original file on it. I SUSPECT that it has made that CD and my 4 new CDs into write PROTECTED. I hate Win 7, it does what it wants. Anyone know how to make them writeable again let please let me know, I'm supposed to be retired but I've spent 2 full days trying to resolve this problem. Thanks, Gable.      Many players have issues with certain brands of media...borrow a few of another brand to test...Thanks for the INFO. I spent at least 2 days trying to resolve this problem. So, I gave up and bought a new USB for the Winows 10 I  just bought. I just posted my problem somewhere in Sotware. Thank, Gable.

I'm installing  W10 (Pro 64b) but have the W10 HDD from old system in my new build. Thinking I'd get option to overwrite (I have a backup). I think a "fresh install" is best, but it's asking if I want to 'Upgrade' or 'Custom' install. Says Upgrade will copy my files, appls, etc.

It would be nice to just switch the key and anything  w/ recognizes the new hardware. It can't act like an "Upgrade install" from W7 or W8. Only Windows on this HDD has been 10. New mobo, cpu and ram. If it overwrites W10 files it sounds like same files written as during a fresh install.

What are any downsides to choosing 'Upgrade'? Also, do you think I'll get to choose between build 1903 and 1909, released today?



Thanks for any input,

Mac Hi
I would first see if the drive boots to the windows desktop on the new machine and you can activate windows on the new hardware. If you can then things may work out. If NOT then you will need another Windows 10 licence key.
If it does boot to the desktop you can do a reload or refresh of windows from  "Reset this PC"  you have the option of a clean install of windows and it will be with the latest service pack.
If you are not doing the clean install make sure the drive has at least 3 * the space used in the windows and users folders free, as copies of these folders are made first by the windows installer.

What you can do all hinges on if you can activate windows automatically on the new hardware. If it was me, I would go buy a replacement hard drive and save the old as a easy way to revert back to what I had. Hard drives prices are now lower that ever, especially for older model in overstock.
Example: A new 500 GB standard drive is about $25 for reputable vendors on eBay. Think about it. What's you time worth?

Well 1) already have a complete HDD as BU, that will boot. 2) This HDD does boot to desktop on the new hardware. But I want to besure no MS routine or future update hoses me, like my personalizations.

From my research it appears a clean install gets you two things besides wiping appls & files. A pristine registry and since all appls are WIPED you have no PROGRAMS at startup. You could fix that using config.sys so the main plus = a clean registry.

I'm going to try the Upgrade install for once. Mainly b/c I want to change my key, lock it to this hardware. I have read, however, that you can often get the old drive to boot on new hardware AND it will update drivers. Then run fine. But I'd rather be kosher w/MS. Don't want anything to later mess w/my MS application installs.

Should be good either way. I can always reinstall clean if I want to.


Thanks vy much for the feedback,

MacIf you use the rest this PC to factory I'm going to re sell the pc option it is the same as a clean install. If windows is activated on the new hardware then you are fine with the licence.Noone has mentioned he is violating the EULA putting it on a new PC...
But hey...there's lotsa ideas bein thrown aroundIf it is a retail copy of Windows 10 then it is transferable as long as there is only one copy using the licence key.
If it is an OEM copy then there is a breach of the end user licence agreement if you use it on different hardware.
I suggested using the repair option as if the op installed a different version or version with a different region  then the Licence could become invalid even if it is a retail copy.This is a custom build, switching the key means I've purchased a new license. Sorry if that confused anyone. I'm not interested in using the old license/W10 in my new system.

Just as I was about to try "Upgrade" someone on another forum related that he's used that a handful of times and it always goofs up something. For instance, later. So he then has to do over, using clean install. Good to know. I'm wiping the HDD and will clean install. Move all my appls, re-config everything : (

My take is 'Upgrade', at least how it's described on some sites, is about as useful as Windows' backup routine. It appears to be touted as a 'Reinstall' that allows you to INSERT a new key & it will overwrite all MS files, giving you a completely new registry. Like clean install. But apparently not so. Old hardware & drivers still exist, are 'greyed out' in device manager and you need to manually delete.

Sounds like Windows, even W10 in this day and age, isn't so smart. For anyone else's edification I have read the .old folder of previous Windows files that gets created is deleted in 10 days.

Thank you all for the feedback. I'll go with the tried and true. I do like to cover all bases but it's time consuming. I will say for anyone who reads this in the future don't skip the UEFI and fast boot/secure boot info.



You are confusing upgrade with  "Reset this PC"  you have the option of a clean install of windows and it will be with the latest service pack." they are very different. Using the latter does create a new registry and there is no user files or programs left on the drive. It's the option you use if you are selling the computer and want a clean install.

This site explains it https://www.howtogeek.com/132428/everything-you-need-to-know-about-refreshing-and-resetting-your-windows-8-pc/

Quote: Sounds like Windows, even W10 in this day and age, isn't so smart. For anyone else's edification I have read the .old folder of previous Windows files that gets created is deleted in 10 days.
This is wrong there maybe a setting in windows to do this but it is not done automatically.

If you are able to boot to windows and there's something wonky about the way windows performs, you could always try an 'in place upgrade'.

Basically, run the installation setup within windows and there should be the upgrade option and setup would just install a brand new copy of windows but with your personal apps and files should be left alone (make sure Keep personal files and apps is the option selected in the setup if not defaulted)


Some vendors offer cheap OEM license for Windows 10,

Here is a screenshot below.I wonder when Microsoft will copy Apple and allow reloads of windows from the internet. I would save lots of problems making bootable pen drives. They are doing it now with Office so shouldn't be a problem adding the boot from network/internet into the windows reload options. Then slip stream the lastest windows build onto the drive with the drivers it backed up before the reload. Anyway dreams are free.
This is relevant.
Install Windows from a USB Flash Drive
Also, you can even run Windows from a quality USB device,.
https://www.pcmag.com/article/352209/how-to-run-windows-10-from-a-usb-drive
Now hat might be an option. 
Lisa_maree: I can't confuse 2 things when I'm only aware of the 1. AIUI, from this (and other MS pages): https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12415/windows-10-recovery-options#section2  any settings would be lost if I were to boot the old W10 and find this "Reset". 

I'm thinking it's highly probable Reset would have similar issues like 'Upgrade' install and will trust only clean install at this point. It would be nice if either option worked so I could keep my files, appls & settings but I can't find out during a busy week that I can't trust/need to re-do all those. As far as the .old folder I'm only repeating that I read that.

2x3i5x: Unfamiliar w/In Place Upgrade as well. But I sure would like any of the 3 we're talking about to work 100% on my hardware and know that for certain in advance as I'm GETTING an error from the clean install now that apparently refers to usb file corruption. Have to dwnld, verify and try again. (Wish 1903 would fit on DVD 'cause I have a lot of those left.)

Geek-9pm: Right.

Additionally, various "how to" 'clean' install webpages mention disable secure boot. Although I haven't been able to so far, it seems that deals w/not being able to boot from usb. I can do that. The process gives error 800703EE (w/points to various problems unfortunately) later. I get through partitions, so I presume it's formatted those NTFS.

Hopefully re-writing the usb = good files and this installs.


Thank you all.Hi first you need to make sure you are making the windows install usb drive on a UEFI COMPATIBLE drive not some 8 gb drive 4 years old OR turnoff  eufi and secure boot in the bios. Boot the pendrive on a USB 2 port this avoids the need for any drivers other than the default windows 10 usb drivers. Also as i said above if you want a clean install i suggest you at least delete the boot and windows partitions from custom option, and let windows installer recreate the partitions the error you are getting could be because you haven't deleted the boot partition and the windows install is not able to re write a new boot record with secure boot enabled.

Are you sure the motherboard, CPU and memory are compatible. I only suggest this as it has happened to me that a computer upgrade was running ok, but windows would not reinstall without a bios update.Also if the new memory has an error it could cause this error. Some bios's have a memory test built it which you could use to test the memory.

Also as your link       https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12415/windows-10-recovery-options#section2
has 4 options for Windows 10  recovery the one you should have used was Remove everything with Data erasure Off
Which is a total clean install of windows all data is deleted (just not erased) erased being when the data areas of the disk are completely over written. Hence why it takes longer.

I have almost succeeded in getting my Samsung SCX-4100 printer/scanner, which has been running for years in Vista, to work in Win 10.  But I need advice to complete the job.

I've installed and uninstalled countless Samsung drivers and utilities without SUCCESS (Easy Printer Manager, Win_OCR, Universal Scan Driver, SmarThru4, etc.), so please don't offer untested software suggestions.  No offence meant, but what would be most helpful would be to hear from someone who has succeeded in doing this, or else who knows for sure that it can't be done.

The device is connected by USB to my Win 10 laptop, using the same cable that I use to Vista.  Whenever I try to run the installer from my old CD in Win 10, it tells me "Device is not connected or power is turned off."  The installation can be made to go ahead to completion, but then a scan SAYS "can't connect to device".  Attempts to scan using VueScan also report that the device is not connected.  Many of the utilities I have tried can't see the device.  And I notice that plugging or unplugging the device's USB does not produce the normal beeps.

But whatever is causing these messages, the device is most certainly connected and powered.  As a printer, it works perfectly.  And, after downloading and installing SCX-4100_Win7_Scan.exe, I have actually been able to scan — but it uses a crude interface called "[Samsung Twain Driver] Version 1.10 (2004)".

So I'm almost there (despite supposedly being not connected or powered).  I would be happy if I could upgrade this Samsung Twain Driver to the much more refined Version 2.02.17 (2006) from my old Vista machine.  But I don't know what file to copy — perhaps someone does know? (There are files on both machines called oem*.dll but the dates are all the same, all 2006; they apparently relate to ScanThru/SmarThru, a more elaborate interface which installs in Win 10 from my old CD but does nothing.)

I'm hoping someone has been down this road.
An update on this saga of the two scanner user interfaces for the Samsung SCX-4100 on my Win 10 machine.

I installed another application (FineReader Pro 5) which supports twain scanning, and this one shows my preferred Samsung interface (v 2.02.17).  Meanwhile the ORIGINAL application (IrfanView) continues to show v 1.10.  Following a hint elsewhere on this site, I installed InspectorTwain, and it shows v 2.02.17.  So clearly both interfaces are present on the Win 10 machine, and it depends on the application which one you get (although I always got v 2.02.17 in IrfanView on my old Vista machine).  I will ask the IrfanView people about this.

It seems that these user interfaces provided by scanner manufacturers are held in files with extension .ds, in windows\twain_32 or a subdirectory thereof.  I have two such files in windows\twain_32\Samsung\Samsung SCX-4100 SERIES — SCX4100.ds (2004-05-27, 876kb) and OEMDS.DS (2006-12-07, 276kb).  I think these can be identified with v1.10 and v2.02.17 respectively.  I cannot find where applications STORE the name of their chosen .ds file, if they store it at all.  I have not found a way to make an application use a different .ds file.  If I get an answer elsewhere, I'll let this forum know.

An extra piece of information: installing 20070816143225781_Smarthru4_SCX-4100_Vista.exe allowed the scanner to work, but using the Samsung SmarThru interface, yet another one though not my preferred one.  But it's not bad going for a scanner that much other software declares to be disconnected  or unpowered.

A word of warning: if you are testing, you may try temporarily renaming a directory or a file, to see how an application handles its unavailability.  But don't do this with scanner software!!!  It seems to remember that things are unavailable even after they have been returned to their original names.  It can take a system restore to get things back to normal.

Hi,
hope you guys can help me. I let the computer do the updates last night and since then the computer has been slow and losing it;s internet connection. I have tried to uninstall the updates but I am having problems. I get to the uninstall  updates utility and can uninstall one of the updates but the other will not uninstall where it has the organize and uninstall the second one does not have uninstall. And I don't kn ow what to do please help
Thank you
Sandra
The first THING that came to MIND: if you have System Restore ACTIVE and you have a system restore point, then you MIGHT want to try using it to go backwards in time just to before you installed the updates or to an earlier point in time depending on what you have and would like to use.
hi,
I tried system restore but I hadn't set it up. this computer isn't very old but I still should have set up system restorethe one which I cannot uninstall is
Security Update for Microsoft Windows (KB4524569)
I have seen that I can POSSIBLY do it through the cmd prompt but I'm a little scared to try it. ( that happens as you get old) But the computer is terrible the way it is I have to do something

I'm using the command:
C:\Users\CTStudent\Downloads>move *.pdf C:\pdfs
in order to move all the pdf files in my current directory to the pdfs directory. I was able to accomplish this MOVING 1 file:
C:\Users\CTStudent\Downloads>move CramSheet.pdf C:\Users\CTStudent\Downloads\pdfs
but for some reason when I use the wildcard it doesn't work. What am I doing wrong?I don't see anything wrong with your command, that should work for multiple files, even if they have long file names

what is the output of the move command? is there an error message?it's *.* to move all...
TRY that*.* specifies all files, whatever the extension. To specify all files of a particular extension, use an asterisk, a dot, and the extension, for example *.pdf.

E:\test>move *.bat d:\test
E:\test\testme0001.bat
E:\test\testme00010.bat
E:\test\testme00011.bat
E:\test\testme0002.bat
E:\test\testme0003.bat
E:\test\testme0004.bat
E:\test\testme0005.bat
E:\test\testme0006.bat
E:\test\testme0007.bat
E:\test\testme0008.bat
E:\test\testme0009.bat
E:\test\testme20001.bat
E:\test\testme20002.bat
E:\test\testme20003.bat
       14 file(s) moved.

E:\test>dir d:\test
 Volume in drive D is SATA-2TB
 Volume Serial Number is 9ABB-F028

 Directory of d:\test

10/11/2019  09:11    <DIR>          .
10/11/2019  09:11    <DIR>          ..
07/02/2019  20:29               820 testme0001.bat
09/02/2019  10:05              1469 testme00010.bat
09/02/2019  10:44              1352 testme00011.bat
07/02/2019  20:44               838 testme0002.bat
08/02/2019  18:58               957 testme0003.bat
08/02/2019  18:23               897 testme0004.bat
08/02/2019  19:02               929 testme0005.bat
08/02/2019  20:00              1004 testme0006.bat
08/02/2019  20:06              1078 testme0007.bat
09/02/2019  09:44              1112 testme0008.bat
09/02/2019  09:57              1278 testme0009.bat
09/02/2019  20:09              2001 testme20001.bat
10/02/2019  09:24              1963 testme20002.bat
10/02/2019  09:47              1456 testme20003.bat
              14 File(s)          17154 bytes
               2 Dir(s)   1192898379776 bytes free

So the command should work, if you typed it CORRECTLY, unless (for example) there are no PDF files in the source folder, or you do not have write permissions to the target folder, or it does not exist, or the files are in use, or a number of other things. If there was such an error, you should see an error message, but you just say it 'doesn't work'. That is the bane of HELP forums, and on Stack Exchange might get the question closed for 'lack of information'.

I've recently started to send emails to someone I met on a forum. When this person sends me an email, the text is in landscape rather than portrait. Initially the person I'm sending emails to used a Yahoo mail address I suggested he should use GMail which I've been USING for years which I was hoping would have resolved the issue.

Tonight I received an email from him via Gmail. HOWEVER, the text is still in landscape. Is there a setting in Windows where you can SET landscape or portrait orientation, as I feel this may be the reason why all his emails are in landscape. I've checked my own email and can't find anything to do with orientation.  He needs to correct on his end...otherwise you have to EXPORT it to a word app and re-do the image...
It's on him.

Whenever i click on a video after 5 seconds i often get a bsod, sometimes the PC just restarts and sometimes the monitor just turns black. When i get a bsod the stop code is VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE and it says that atikmpag.sys has failed. So far this only happens when watching a youtube video, it doesn't happen during gaming or when browsing the internet, but it's a new computer and i haven't tested everything on it. Although when i watch SOMETHING on internet explorer it seems to work just fine, but on chrome and edge it restarts. Also my drivers are updated and the gpu that i am using is AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Where did you get your drivers from ? ?I got the drivers from the official AMD site and it also downloaded the software radeon settings i think it's called, i downloaded the recommended 1.9.9.2 version but there is also an optional 1.9.10.1 version, i tried both versions and it restarts on both of themI would revert to the drivers that shipped with the card...newer drivers ain't always better drivers..
Best of Luck.I was using the OLD drivers for some TIME before i updated them and it was giving me a bsod when watching videos. I tried disabling hardware acceleration a few days ago and it seems like it worked, i did not get a bsod and my pc wasn't restarting. COULD this be a problem with the gpu?

Was wondering if these two overlap in any way. Eg, let’s say I use these two apps to set-up my new PC. I can use the Sync On function for all of my personal settings such as wallpaper, Edge favorites, etc. Then I can use File History to restore all of my files. Will these two apps work well together or will they conflict? Thanks.Have you read some articles about the topic?
Like this?
https://www.ubackup.com/windows-10/sync-laptop-and-desktop-windows-10-8523.html
Quote

It is quite common that one user owns both a laptop and a desktop. Each device has its merits. A desktop has a good cost-to-performance ratio and it’s easy to upgrade a CPU, GPU, or motherboard in a desktop while a laptop is much more compact and you can use it anywhere with the portable power source.

If you have both a laptop and a desktop, you may want to sync the two devices for following reasons:

    Use the same settings on two computers without spending time manually entering theme customizations, browser options, etc.

    Keep frequently-used files up to date on two PCs without the repetitive work of COPY and paste.

Have you read some articles about the topic?
Like this?
https://www.ubackup.com/windows-10/sync-laptop-and-desktop-windows-10-8523.htmlDoes that apply to you? 

If your goal is to transfer all syuff from the old beast to the new PC i would suggest cloning the HDD...
Macrium Reflect and/or Easus to do can do this...

When you purchase Windows 10 does it come in a box with discs or do you get a download card as I did when I purchased Photoshop Elements.



I think what you do is you go to the website where you download the software at the same time you are given the serial number.

After I'd downloaded the software I found it wouldn't accept the serial number after a few attempts I went to Adobe support where  they have someone you can chat to. I had to give this person proof I'd purchased the product. I scanned my receipt and sent it via email.

Some few minutes later this person I was chatting to informed me that she had registered my Elements Software.  After we ended the conversation I tried again to install Elements, this time I had no bother with the installation.

I'm considering purchasing Win 10, but I don't want the hassle I had with Elements.  You want the whole world to see your Photoshop Elements serial number?
image deletedThanks for deleting the image I never gave it a thought.  I have installed windows 10 many times.
It is easy to install, jut time-consuming.
And Microsoft will let yu use it for awhile before you activate it.
Here is a recent article about how to get Windows 10:
How to Try Windows 10 for Free for 90 Days
Try it! 


QUOTE from: Geek-9pm on October 13, 2019, 01:28:53 PM

I have installed windows 10 many times.
It is easy to install, jut time-consuming.
And Microsoft will let yu use it for awhile before you activate it.
Here is a recent article about how to get Windows 10:
How to Try Windows 10 for Free for 90 Days
Try it! 

If you have a good Internet connection, the download is a good thing.'You can gt the checksum for the download and test it to see if it was good.
Both Windows 10 and Winnows 7 have a Built-In MD5 Checksum Calculator
https://onthefencedevelopment.com/2017/08/15/windows-10-builtin-md5-checksum-calculator/
Also, you could have a friend download it and put it on a USB thing.

Bear in mind,  the DVD version may not be as up to date.

Thank you. I intend to purchase Win 10 rather than download any trial version. I'm not worried about the installation being time-consuming. I've installed Win 7 often enough. I'd be more happier to know when you purchase the product, it comes on an installation disc, rather than have to download it from Microsoft as I did when I purchased elements from Adobe.

Are you going to install Win 10 on a newly built machine?  That's when you need to purchase Win 10.

If you are installing it on a machine that originally had Win 7 or Win 8 then you can legally upgrade that machine to a full copy of Win 10 for free.  You can download the Media Creation tool from MS which will allow you to create an install disc or an install USB drive.