Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I've been googling this and haven't been able to get an answer yet. I like the scrolling direction mimicking the touchscreen scrolling on my SurfaceBook 2, but when I "invert" the scrolling to match it also flips the left/right scrolling, so that, for example, if I swipe left on my trackpad my browser (Chrome) registers that as a forward command. Vice versa, I swipe right, it wants to go back. I customized three-finger gestures to swipe correctly but I was thinking, since two-finger is default to do browser navigation like that, why not use three-finger for some other functionality? So with that said, how can I have touchscreen-STYLE vertical scrolling on my trackpad but retain left-right/back-forward style navigation as well? I get why it's DONE (as if I was navigating in space on a TABLET) but in desktop MODE I almost never scroll left/right in that manner and find the workflow, for me personally, would be better if I could do it the way I described. Quote from: Aplam on January 20, 2019, 02:09:24 AM

I've been googling this and haven't been able to get an answer yet. I like the scrolling direction mimicking the touchscreen scrolling on my SurfaceBook 2, but when I "invert" the scrolling to match it also flips the left/right scrolling, so that, for example, if I swipe left on my trackpad my browser (Chrome) registers that as a forward command. Vice versa, I swipe right, it wants to go back. I customized three-finger gestures to swipe correctly but I was thinking, since two-finger is default to do browser navigation like that, why not use three-finger for some other functionality?  Showbox Tutuapp Vidmate So with that said, how can I have touchscreen-style vertical scrolling on my trackpad but retain left-right/back-forward style navigation as well? I get why it's done (as if I was navigating in space on a tablet) but in desktop mode I almost never scroll left/right in that manner and find the workflow, for me personally, would be better if I could do it the way I described.

Hey everyone, I have a DELL laptop that uses an AMD E2 graphics chip. Anyways, I had some trouble installing the graphics drivers for it, and when I got them it worked fine. When I go and click on my icon tray in the bottom right, there are five AMD Radeon ICONS there normally. If I go into task MANAGER, I see five instances of Radeon Settings: Host Application running at the same time. If I end all of them but one, nothing happens. But if I end the last one, they all COME back. I'm at a loss as to why multiple instances of the same program are running, especially graphics. I'm usually good with finding why THINGS like this happen, but I only see one instance of the program on the hard drive. Any help would be appreciated.

Just sharing this here in case anyone has an older computer with say just a 40GB Hard Drive or 40GB SSD in it and was wondering how Windows 10 64-bit fits within the 40GB of space.

First of all, a clean build of Windows 10 64-bit Home with no updates, no extra software or drivers left  [ 22.2GB free of 36.6GB ]  ( Corsair F40 - 40GB SSD )

After all updates and latest Firefox 64.0.2 browser added it now has  [ 17.3GB free of 36.6GB ].

One might question ... why not just install a larger drive into the system vs bothering using a small limited capacity 40GB drive?

WELL the user of this computer just uses it as a computer for web surfing and e-mail, so no games beyond that of browser flash based games that dont require any installations and they dont run any large software packages, so the 40GB SSD works out fine for this users needs and it is STILL a very fast drive. 

One thing to consider though is that if your computer has a 40GB Hard Drive its not going to perform as well as a 40GB Solid State Drive. And its not just the simple fact that SSD drives are faster than HDD's. The issue you run into with a small hard drive is that your looking at 50% of the drives capacity being CONSUMED just to have the computer functional for a system that surfs the web, and with the data on a 40GB drive SPREAD out among a lesser density per drive platter than that of say a 1TB Hard Drive the drive has to spin more revolutions to assemble the data that is being FETCHED from it and so the 40GB drive is lesser efficient than that of a 1TB hard drive because more revolutions are needed to assemble the data that needs to be read into memory, whereas the 1TB hard drive with a greater data density on the platter may be able to assemble 20x or more data per revolution of the drive depending on drive fragmentation.

However with a (SSD) solid state drive no matter the size of the drive and how little capacity may be left remaining the benchmark results of the read/write speed is pretty much a constant speed between a drive that is mostly empty and one that is almost full. The only catch to performance being in that Windows requires drive space for virtual memory swapping and so if a computer is lacking adequate space for virtual memory also known as paging or swap space, the system would run less efficient and a bottleneck to performance would happen as memory is limited.

The only issue I could see happening down the road with this build is that it only has 17.3GB free space and a major update of Windows 10 before I have seen require 16GB free on an Intel Atom Tablet that I have with onboard non upgradeable 32GB SSD. Because it only has 14GB free space its unable to update and is currently version locked at an older Windows 10 build which makes it potentially bad for security. One trick i will probably have to do with this is to create a symbolic link to a Micro SD Card so that Windows thinks the drive is larger than it is and then see if it would be able to be brought forward that way. I should have spent the extra money and got a tablet with 64GB but I didnt see this problem when I figured if I needed extra capacity I could just add a Micro SD Card to it.

So in closure to this. I wouldn't recommend installing Windows 10 onto a small drive that it can fit on, but it can be done. I would suggest a system with at least 120GB Hard Drive or SSD so it allows Windows 10 to grow on the drive as updates and software and personal data is stored. However if you don't need lots of data storage capacity and just use it as a computer for surfing the web and e-mail its plenty and if you ever run into a situation where a Windows update is not able to be installed because not enough free space, there is the option of downloading the latest Windows 10 build from Microsoft and performing a clean installation and being able to force the system to be securely patched. Unfortunately the tablet that I have does not support booting off of a USB stick otherwise I'd go that route with it to just blowing away the out of date build and installing latest and greatest Windows 10 build to it.

I have stacks of hard drives and SSD's of larger capacity, but when my wife nuked her system and it needed a rebuild, I saw this 40GB SSD figured I might as well have fun with her rebuild and see how a 40GB SSD would hold up in her system and so I  put a 9 year old Corsair F40 SSD to use and will have her burn up the last if its Read/Write life in a system that extra space is just wasted in. I'd rather toss away this 40GB SSD when its spent and no longer functional vs keeping it around and giving her a new Intel 545S 256GB drive that most of its extra space would be wasted. Additionally I don't like to throw away good parts I like to use them until they fail, or are lagging and not realistic to use anymore, or no longer supported by newer hardware and I no longer have a use for them. 

Windows 10 updates have hit me hard. No I can not suet off the PC. And only one user account has administrator level. I don't understand how this happened.

I WANT to go back to 1809 before the updates. So I did a download of the ISO.
Somehow the ISO was not in downloads. And the media creator wants to ha NET framework 2. 

Anyway, I finally got things together. I forgot how hard it is to use the free tools MS makes available. Why does burning a ISO have to be so hard?

But here is my question: If I do get back to 1809, how to I prevent windows updates for making my computer life unstable? I am on the insider program and I think I better jump off pronto.   

Any Advice? Please?   do you mean back to 1809 build 17763.1 ?   (latest being .253)
I downloaded a new image file using the MS Media Creation Tool a week ago and that image gives to 17763.175 (or there-about)
I am on the insider program. Which should tell you I am not very smart. 
I downloaded a new copy of what they call 1809. The version is totally  confusing and I have not idea what t means. 
Common sense would indicate that its not a complete build.
The build number is 18290.1000 and I was told in school that you never put trailing zero on a decimal friction, unless it is currency.

Anyway, I am ruining it.  Something must be wrong with it.


 18290.1000 is an Insider Preview Build.A special program I like will crash on the insider. The vendor does not have a fix.
But it used to work on earlier versions of Windows 10. So I got a new coy of 1809 and so far it does not crash. So maybe it is OK now. Or not.

How cam I get a recent build that is not the insider? Quote

I downloaded a new copy of what they call 1809. The version is totally  confusing and I have not idea what t means. 

The build number is 18290.1000 and I was told in school that you never put trailing zero on a decimal friction, unless it is currency.

Everything that was simple to with windows 7, share E: drive turn file SHARING on in option and remove password... voilà
I find e: drive on my other PC, my android phone's file explorer, can acces my pc's ip address with foobar2000 controller on my CELLPHONE and choose what is playing from my pc in another room, i could also easily find my pc as a server and use Unified Remote as a remote control .....
None of the above are possible since i switched to windows 10.

Please help me, my pc does not have automatic wifi cause its a desktop, but it has a rooter (d-link dir 822) I have tried many steps but i really want my pc to be seen my other devices and thing works so farby the way the unified remote and foobar2000 was solved within minutes, I figured out that i was on a guest wifi network

The shared PC DRIVES on another PC are STILL not findableRecreate the shares...not SURE why Win 10 borked them...but i'm not suprised....Of possible interest, some routes have a USB port will allow sharing.
Look at this:
http://www.dlink.cc/d-link-router/how-do-i-access-the-usb-media-that-is-connected-to-d-link-router.html
It is said to work with Mac and Windows

I am trying to setup my oculus rift and it needs the main hdmi DISPLAY port to work, I also need my monitor plugged in to complete the rift setup. I have a DVI port and hdmi port along with a display port on my graphics card, twin freezer gtx 760 MSI, The main problem is my when I plug my dvi cable in to the card to my monitor it doesn't recognize it but it works just fine with my hdmi cable, The weird issue is when I start my comp with the hdmi cable to my monitor it works and shows all icons and desktop windows that are opened, if I plug my dvi cable in then I just GET a blank desktop and all the icons disappear and all the windows that I had opened disappear as well.


Things I have tried ofcourse plugging dvi after and before windows boots, along with making SURE the right input was on

I have also updated drivers, tried EVERY combination of plugging the hdmi cable in then the dvi or dvi first or dvi last after windows boots, it just never accepts that there is a dvi cable plug working,

I have tried the ports above the card as well hdmi and the dvi ports near the top of the desktop don't work.


is there ANYWAY to check if my dvi port died? (see images as an example of me plugging the dvi cable after everything is booted and working on the hdmi display)this is that other image showing the windows disappear after the dvi cable has been plugged it. I also tried this then removed the hdmi selected the dvi input and still not showing a display image.

Hi,

 

I recently was struck with a side-by-side error for when I open the majority of programs. This was all from when my PC automatically updated a few days ago. It isn't ANYTHING to do with any C++ programs, because the issue is different in the event log. Here is information from the log:

 

Error event 33 - Activation context generation failed for "System Default Context". Dependent Assembly Microsoft.Windows.IsolationAutomation,language="*",PROCESSORARCHITECTURE="x86",publicKeyToken="6595b64144ccf1df",type="win32",version="1.0.17134.471" could not be found. Please use sxstrace.exe for detailed diagnosis.

 

I've TRIED sfc /scannow, but to no avail. It says Windows resource protection could not start.Sxstrace.exe doesn't even open. I tried fully resetting my PC, but it says 'Windows could not be restarted'. In addition I've attempted to install a Windows 10 ISO and restart it that way but to no avail. Apparently I don't have any restore points to go back to. I previously had the same issue, and used a restore point to go back before the update and it was OKAY for a few weeks. Firefox still works, settings, file explorer - all the usual programs, just not spotify, steam, blizzard app etc. Any help would really be appreciated because it's very frustrating for me. I just need any good recommendations because I have tried every solution I could find on the web.

 

The version of my Windows 10 Home is 1803, with an OS build of 17134.471.

 

Thank you in advance, Jordan. Quote

all the usual programs, just not spotify, steam, blizzard app etc

In addition I've attempted to install a Windows 10 ISO and restart it that way but to no avail.

Genuinely got no clue. Will probably contact Microsoft as a last resort, if not I'm going to be building one in the near future so may have to persevere with it for now 

Hi , there I'm Jeremy.
วิธีดูราคาบอลufabet
I have someone help me okay
How to turn off the software update when shutdown and start the machine on win 10. This made my machine really slow down a lot! HOPE someone will help me, i am currently using win 10 home version!!!

Thank in advance.What make/model COMPUTER or what are the system specs?

First thing that comes to mind is that you might have a system with less than 8GB RAM. I had a issue like this with a system with 4GB RAM running Windows 10 64-bit with all RAM in use and constant hard drive activity as it was paging a lot in Virtual Memory on the Hard Drive. I upgraded to 8GB RAM and the system ACTED like before the update nice and quick.

When you refer to software update I am assuming your meaning Windows Updates.

Disabling the Windows 10 updates will make your system vulnerable to exploits and other security issues due to not being properly PATCHED, so it might be better to find the cause of the sudden slowness and fix that vs just rolling back to previous Windows 10 and version locking it.

Additionally if your system is running on less than 8GB RAM and this issue is happening and you cant upgrade RAM or dont want to upgrade the RAM, then you could try disabling the Super Fetch Service which would make Windows 10 not fully populate your systems memory all the time with frequently used DATA and the only stuff that will be in RAM is what needs to be vs what windows thinks you might need fast access to. https://www.technipages.com/windows-enable-disable-superfetch

I have a HP stream laptop model 11-y010wm that I have forgot the password to. I TRIED factory resetting it but it then displays a MESSAGE that says ADDITIONAL space is needed where windows is installed free up some space and try again. Do you have any suggestions? I followed what a YouTube video told me to do with the factory reset and it's not working. And I can't free up space because I can't log in to do so. ThanksWith laptops if the password is forgotten it needs to go to an Authorised Service Center...
Be prepared to show proof of ownership or they won't do a thing...
Good Luck.

Note: I just re-read your POST...is a Win password we're talkin about ? ? If so what Win ver. ?

Sorry Lisa_maree - that wasn't much HELP to me because I know nothing about computers...just trying my best.  My question is at this point, can I install drivers for my printers?  If so, where do I go?
lisa_maree provided some instructions on how to print out a test page. I'd suggest you follow them to print out a test page. if the test page(s) have the same issue then it has nothing to do with drivers or your computer.I'm going to do what Lisa_maree suggested...having been hit by a bug, so I'm under the weather.  Will do it ASAP.  Thanks!
If this is a USB printer it's a 3 step process....Remove the printer by rite clickin it in device manager....remove the printer software in Add/Remove programs...Re-boot and with the printer NOT connected via USB to the PC and re-install the printer software....it will prompt you when to connect the USB cable...

Best of Luck !I finally got around to doing the checks on both printers.  The HP is printing light.  The EPSON looks fine, but still won't print dark like if I used Word to print a document.  Funny thing though, I have been fooling around with both of them a bit and they would not print the wording very dark until the last LINE of a PARAGRAPH, and at the top and bottom of pages, it will type dark (i.e., page numbers, something printed on the internet with a bottom line).  This is confusing.  I have the disks for both printers, if it is the drivers, would they install it from the cd if I were to uninstall both printers?

I thought I'd ask if anyone with Windows 10,  has a problem seeing the greyed out wording displayed on screen?

I'll try to add a screenshot for you.

I don't have any problem. It's grey, sure, but far from invisible. Have you tried playing around with contrast an brightness SETTINGS on your display?
Yep, I have Salmon Trout, resolutions, brightness, etc. Firefox, Google, IE all seem to be very much the same.
As you say its not a big problem, just annoying more than anything.

I do NOTICE that if I am further away from the screen ( & the angle of the screen changes ) it becomes more clear/darker.

Im thinking its more to do with my screen than anything else actually. If I adjust the screen angle to be further angled away from me its acceptable. It just looks funny having the laptop that far open.

I've put up with it so far, so maybe if I win the lotto, I can afford to buy an upgrade. In the meantime I'll just INCREASE the screen angle a bit & wear my glasses. LOL.Windows whatever, I don't think that is the issue. You can play around with the TrueType settings and maybe see some difference. Sounds like you are noticing the LCD screen viewing-angle problem. Unlike CRT screens, the image on an LCD screen is only viewable when the eye is within a certain angle, vertically and horizontally. Some makers give angle information e.g. 170/150 which means 170 degrees horizontally, 150 degrees vertically. The ideal spot for the eye is right in the middle of these angles, and as you go off centre things can degrade. Things like brightness and contrast (especially) degrade until right at the edges the image can vanish or look really weird. Some maker's viewing angle figures are kind of hopeful, and a 160 degree angle may be only about 50 in REALITY. You can go into a lot of research on this, but basically bigger is better, newer is better, and cheaper is worse. You pay more for a better display. I viewed your screen grab on a 24 inch Hanns-G HL231 desktop monitor, which was mid-range when I bought it 2 years ago. On a personal note, I have to say that I hate using laptops. I have to wear glasses, and I am forever having to move my head, fool with the angle of the screen, etc. I have a Dell "business laptop" about 5 years old, and it is awful! As for a laptop 'looking funny' with the screen at a wide angle, well, the CORRECT angle for you is going to depend on the height of the laptop compared to your eyes, and that will depend on its horizontal distance in front of you, and the height of whatever it is on (desk, table, etc), the chair you are on, and so forth. There is no single correct angle, which is why you have a hinged screen that you can adjust.I think you've hit the nail on the head there Salmon Trout. I've noticed viewing angle is a big part of selling television sets.
Sellers display them in the optimal position so they look fabulous when you come in to the display area.

When you get you $5000 Television home.. its nothing like the unit you purchased from the displayed units.

I think its  just a case of having to modify my viewing angle.

Guess I'll just have to keep moving the screen up & down depending what I'm doing.

I dislike windows 10 because is has so many issues windows 7 never had, but win7 can't see more that 2tb on 3tb and bigger drives, and i recently replaced my three 2tbs for two 4tb and one 6tb and tried to make it look as much as possible like win 7 with classic shell and all.

I tried the latest update to see if it corrected the LAN folder sharing issues (cant detect my shared drives or folder or pc from other devices (cellphone) or pc) and once 1809 installed, my E: drive disappeared and can be only seen as Local DISK (E:) as a RAW drive in Disk Management.
This happened once, and I reinstalled windows 10 without 1809 update and the disk was there like nothing had happened.

Why does this happen? Can I resurface my partition for free and correct the error using a hdd partitons or management software? Can i go back to win7 with no fear or loosing all my data on my 4tb+ drives? Any help for the windows 10 sharing issues?

ThanksWhat Partition type and file system was present on "E" drive?

Note that ReFS support was removed on non-enterprise/server SKUs in 1803 so if you are updating from something before 1803 to 1809 and use ReFS it will show as RAW.You are not alone. Windows update 1809 has caused data loss for many users.

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jasonevangelho/2018/10/06/microsoft-confirms-windows-10-update-mistake-was-your-data-lost/#73ea63e3665b

I have two machines that I updated to 1809. The first had no problem. On the second, I lost two logical ext4 partitions -- they were completely destroyed, as if their entry in the partition table was simply erased. Yet, another logical ext4 partition in the same EXTENDED partition was untouched.

When I finally got Windows booted after all updates were complete, many of the items in my start menu were renamed to include a "(1)" at the end, apps I never use (not even Microsoft apps) were given prominent new shortcuts on the RIGHT side of the Start Menu. Etc., etc. Who knows what other strange changes were made to the registry or my system disk.

So I went to Settings, Update & Security, View update history. Under 1809, I clicked "See what's new in this update." The tips app opened to the home screen, with no information of any kind provided.

There have been some truly awful Windows Updates, but this one is arguably deserving of a class action lawsuit. Just unbelievable.The partition is GPT and formatted in ntfs, I would really much go back to win7... win10 is nothing to me aside from less screentearing while watching videos on my poor graphic cardI was having a few problems with the previous build of Windows 10 (1803) including a 2 minute wait after desktop appearance for my start-up apps to APPEAR. I installed 1809 and they all went away. No missing files. Complete login in 30 seconds. A guy at work accused me of lying!

We all know that Visual Studio 6 can be successfully installed on 64-bit Windows 10.

Shandy,
You say you  are a new.
You should pass up Visual Studio 4 because it is not up to date and  may cause you trouble. If you have Windows 10, then get a recent version of Visual studio that works well with Widows 10. For personal and educational usage it is free.
Search 'Free version of Visual Studio' and find it.
https://visualstudio.microsoft.com/vs/express/

There are free tutorials available.

If a software is not installable natively on windows 10 but is installable thru a virtual machine, does that count as still being installed on windows 10? 

Hello All,

Hope someone might be able to help with this.
My HP Pavillion g6 laptop, whenever i try typing anything the cursor goes to the left and back to start of line.
for example, if i type home, it comes out like emoh. to login i type the password backwards to get it right.
Tried plugging in external keyboard, makes no difference. if i try to go to device manager to check drivers. everything just collapses and cursor goes all over the screen.

tried the troubleshooter with no issues. This is a new install of windows 10, i upgraded from windows 8.
Not sure what to do next.

Thanks.So this issue happened immediately after upgrade but wasn't happening prior to upgrade?

Do you happen to have the Windows 8 INSTALLATION media to downgrade back to Windows 8 if needed?

Did you get this Windows 10 installation media using the Microsoft Windows 10 media creation tool which downloads this installation image from Microsoft and creates the bootable USB drive or burned DVD? Or did this Windows 10 install come from a non direct download that MAY have been tampered with.

Hello Dave,

No, this problem already existed in windows 8 before i upgraded. I used USB with microsoft creation tool with microsoft image.See if "snap to" is enabled for both the keypad and/or mouse...Checked all settings for touchpad and usb mouse.
I disabled the touchpad, to use usb mouse/keyboard.
When i boot the laptop for example and go into bios
the screens are uncontrollable, jumping everywhere, same when i try go into device manager.What happens exactly when you're in bios?

If it's happening in bios then hardware is the issue. Perhaps the controller on the mobo, the CONNECTIONS, or the keyboard is knackered.When in bios, it's like watching the laptop in auto pilot, it like using the tab key and constantly tabbing through every screen in bios constantly.
The keyboard is knackered, i have it disconnected and out of laptop. I'm using a usb keyboard.
Like i said earlier in a post, i can't get to do anything in device manager, because the same happens there.
I've never been INSIDE a laptop to be honest.

How is the keyboard connected to the board? Does it mention USB on the board itself around the place where the keyboard plugs in? Just thinking it could be an issue with the USB controller on the mobo.

Long shot but have you tried to a CMOS reset on the mother board? To do this remove the round silver battery fitted in the board for around 30 mins and then put it back in and see how it goes. Not sure it will help, you could be looking at a physical issue with the motherboard. Hello,
Keyboard is connected with a ribbon cable inside laptop.
Will try taking out the cmos battery, not a big job and see what happens.
But i was thinking it might be physical problem with motherboard.
Thanks for your help. Quote from: pfn100 on January 07, 2019, 02:10:52 PM

Hello,
Keyboard is connected with a ribbon cable inside laptop.
Will try taking out the cmos battery, not a big job and see what happens.
But i was thinking it might be physical problem with motherboard.
Thanks for your help.

If you follow Chromebook development news the WAY hot-stove baseball fans follow the latest trade rumors, you know Google is WORKING on bringing Windows to Chromebook.

If you have that one Windows APPLICATIONS you must run, Google has been working on MAKING it possible to dual-boot Windows 10 on Chromebook since July 2018. This is not the same as Google bringing Linux to Chromebook. With the latter, you can run both operating systems at once. With the former, you can run one or the other, not both, simultaneously.

This new dual-boot mode will let Chromebook users with Intel processors and a minimum of 64GB of SSD and 4GB of RAM run Windows 10. It also appears as if Dual Boot, the offspring of Google's Project Campfire, will enable you to run other operating systems.I don't BELIEVE it!

My Win10 went wrong and I just wanted to reset it by using the RECOVERY TOOL that is already in Win10.
The system is so corrupted that I can't even complete the reset process, I have searched for numerous solutions on the internet but none works.
I have a ZedAir notebook and it is impossible to reinstall Win10 or any other Win using a USB or a
CD/DVD.
I have tried using the Media Creation Tool (MCT) and choose  "Upgrade this PC now"  OPTION but I come up with this error

At boot try pressing F9 and see if it will give you a boot selection. Then select USB boot device with the Windows 10 installation media on the USB stick. It should then allow you to INSTALL Windows 10 fresh on the laptop. The laptop might have a different key for boot select but its most commonly F9, so right after the logo or at the logo just start pressing F9 repeatedly and you should see a boot menu for boot options with the USB stick INSERTED to be able to select it.For the Zed Air you press F2 to be able to select your boot menu.

Hi!

I created shortcut of original file (simple LNK).
When I'm opening file directly (no matter if is executable, it is also in case of TEXT file) all is working ok.
When I'm opening file by shortcut, it displays always security warning:

Want you to open this file?
Name: xxxx.lnk
Publisher: Unknown
Type: Link
Source: X:\xxxx\xxxx.xxx
[Open]               [Cancel]
Files from internet can be useful, but this file type can damage your COMPUTER. If you don't trust this source, don't open this file.

I know that it causes unknown publisher, but really don't know how to set publisher in file properties.
BTW: Nice comment or item in properties can be Downloaded from - and location there...

How ti disable this security warning?If you set it to "RUN as administrator" under advanced shortcut properties of the shortcut does it still do this?Yes.

Some files (shortcuts to EXECUTABLES) working properly after setting "Run As Admin" in compatibility and/or advanced properties.
But most (or all) links to other files (TXT, etc.) are blocked even if is this set.
The same behavior like with LNK is also with URL shortcuts.

Miro

I have 8GadgetPack installed in Win10ProV1809x32 on my desktop, and the Shutdown/RESTART gadget works well. I have likewise installed it in Win10ProV1809x32 on my laptop, where it does not work. How to fix ?The 8gadget pack is not now a Microdot product.
https://8gadgetpack.net/Feedback.php
What have your already tried?
Did you see this?
https://www.tenforums.com/software-apps/113719-8gadgetpack.html

Maybe somebody else has a good answer.  Sorry. 
THANK you for those LINKS. I have sent the inquiry to the FEEDBACK mechanism; and will EXPLORE the suggestions in the other.  A merry remainder of Christmas to you.After trying yet again, it now works - both the Restart and the Shutdown - PROBLEM solved !Sometimes just talking helps.  Gadget Paks and Windows addons have a long history of borking a perfectly good Win install...

hi sir/madam
i need to type tamil name in a web page. The name is akshaya it shoud be like this in tamil அக்‌ஷய. if i type it is like அக் ஷய or
அக்ஷய which is wrong. no COPY and paste option is enabled on the website. how to do it on the browser. i need the solution and can any one suggest some solutions.
THANK youJust wondering:

What operating system are you using? on my windows 10 machine, I can install language packs via the control panel to add the language you want to type in so I can use my standard U.S. keyboard and type out what I want to say in the other language. Don't need to worry about copy and paste that way.

Thank You for reply. I use windows 7. And I too tried with language PACK instaled. And also I tried via word document. But it doesn't work. And I directly tried in browsers no use. Suggest me some other ideas possible
Thank You
In you email program, specify use of HTML.
Then use the HTML CODES.

I have windows10 Installed on my SSD DRIVE. I want to update it, but I can't. Every time, the same PROBLEM occurs: my system restarts and after taking a long time, and in the end says "windows 10 can't complete update undoing changes". I've tried using Microsoft's "Windows 10 Update Assistant" and also updating the windows manually with CMD, but the same issue happens every time.

I've READ many answers on this issue on reddit and other websites and they didn't work...

I would appreciate if anyone could help me get rid of this problem.No, I do not know the best answer.
Do you have another copy of Windows 10 on yu PC?
If so, have you tried  this:
Disable or remove the SSD.
Set BIOS to boot from HDD.
Tun PC on and boot Windows from HDD and then try the update.

The objective is to find if the SSD installation prevents updates.

Elsewhere a few SAY they can not update using SSD as boot drive.
From Microsft:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-win_upgrade/windows-10-upgrade-and-ssd-boot-drive/fc6af58b-ec9b-4a18-8d74-2c3e0b765a49
Really?
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance-winpc/windows-10-creators-update-crashes-ssd-boot-disk/40f1a26e-ff5f-4809-80b1-e0f3496d675a
I can not verify the above.  cared to share your solution - it may help others.

Hi!

I was searching for CMD.EXE alternative and found some tools:
1.
Command Line C#
- allows to run C# code in comand line
Exist anything similar for C/C++ code execution?
2.
In Insider preview is CMD.EXE with zoom available.
Is possible to extract it from Insider build and apply it (separately or REPLACE) to Windows 1803?
3.
Insider preview has also Linux Shell
Is possible to extract and apply to Windows 1803 too?
Extraction of many programs is possible, but I did it yet only with programs from older Windows versions.
When I'm talking about older Windows extraction, it was possible to get Media Center into Windows 10.1507 or Build 10240 - is it yet possible to do the same for later builds?
4.
I found also notes about CMD.EXE evolution that will be supported in CMD Unicode buffer - is it rumour or reality?

Thank you for all suggestions and replies.
Miro1. The Unix/Linux C shell (csh) can be installed on Windows, either using Cygwin, or there is a port called tcsh you can get by using Astron's packaged exe (x64 and x86) files here

ftp://ftp.astron.com/pub/tcsh/beta/

2. Nope. I tried it.

3. You can just install WSL in Windows 10 pro, or else install Cygwin and you get bash, zsh, csh, etc. Don't know about Media Center but see here:

https://www.ghacks.net/2018/10/08/windows-media-center-for-windows-10/

4. It's in 1809.

"If you’re running Windows 10 October 2018 Update (build 1809), you’re already running this new buffer!"

https://blogs.msdn.microsoft.com/commandline/2018/11/15/windows-command-line-unicode-and-utf-8-output-text-buffer/



Regarding "alternative shells" generally for Windows, you have always got Powershell, which I personally have never used much. As for alternatives to the cmd.exe console, I think I have tried all of the free ones like Cmder, ConEmu, etc, and always went back to the standard Windows console pretty quickly. There is an alternative-language thing called TAKE Command, which is supposed to fix all the things wrong with cmd.exe, but still be familiar syntax-wise. You have to pay for it, but there is a free version called TCC/LE (it used to be called 4NT and was around for years). It's like cmd.exe on steroids (111 commands compared to 40). Again, I noodled around with it but SOON went back.

https://jpsoft.com/products/tcc-le.html

To me personally these alternatives are all very well if you like noodling around with consoles, but if you want to get anything done, cmd.exe is what most people use so I stick with that. There is one thing I have installed that I like, a console enhancement called Clink...

https://mridgers.github.io/clink/

This is handy because it remembers your command history after a reboot, and you can do some custom things (e.g. coloured prompt). It injects itself into cmd.exe at launch, you can enable and disable it.


 For correction - I'm searching not for cmd.exe replacement and tried mentioned.
I want to have extended cmd.exe with C/C++ code execution and magnifying and I see that CLink is great enhancement of cmd.exe itself.
I will play with later, but from webpage it looks great... thank you for suggestion.
Even CLink is possible to extend - dream is to add C/C++ code execution, but my time is small for this, maybe knowledge too.

Miro

Hello yesterday I was using my pc and I got a BSOD with The error code memory_management the pc reset and it went though the bios screen fine but once it starts up windows I get a black screen with a under score moving around and flashing, no windows at all not even the advance option after multiple fails.

I thought it was a hardware problem with the ram and so I tried multiple memory configs, I downloaded the windows installer and ran that as boot PRIORITY. with that up I tried to do everything from start up repair, system restore, system image RECOVERY uninstalling updates I then went into the command promt and tried to follow the article "How to Rebuild the BCD in Windows" from lifewire (https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-rebuild-the-bcd-in-windows-2624508) I got to Option 1

"Scanning all disks for Windows installations. Please wait, since this may take a while... Successfully scanned Windows installations. Total identified Windows installations: 0 The operation completed successfully."

witch if I am sure means my storage is most likely corrupted along with the windows installation so I followed it more until I got to "attrib c:\boot\bcd -h -r -s" in witch the pc told me there was no c:\boot and so in my frustration I just tried to reinstall windows 10 I then tried to format the ssd and the hdd partitions using my windows installer and then install it to my ssd and it still doesn't work I think I might have to get some new storage but I am not sure if that would work.
So does anyone have any ideas, it would be very appreciated.

Specs
Motherboard: PRIME X370-PRO
CPU: Ryzen 5 1600
RAM: 2x HyperX HX424C15FB2/8 FURY DDR4 8 GB RAM 2400 MHz DDR4 CL15 DIMM
GPU: vega 64 sapphire nitro+
SSD: Kingston SA400S37/240G SSD A400 240 GB SSD
PSU: Seasonic 550W
HDD: 1 TB internal hard drive
Sound card: Xonar AE

Did you get this Windows 10 Installation media from Microsoft using their tool to create it?

Your hardware list doesnt show a HDD yet you stated ( I then tried to format the ssd and the hdd partitions using my windows installer ) did you mean SSD partitions or do you have a hard drive installed but its missing from hardware list?

If you have 2 drives in this system, remove that drive that Windows is not going to be installed to. Then install clean to that single drive. See is that works better for you.

Note I have SEEN before where a system has the Windows installation on a drive that is connected to SATA 1 and a drive that has a troubled install of Windows on a drive connected to SATA 0 and so you end up installing to SATA 1's drive but upon reboot it try to boot off the other drive at SATA 0 which is not bootable but it has remnants of a boot record causing the system to try to boot off it but it never succeeds and it will cause you to go crazy trying to chase it down.

However the BSOD prior to all of this could mean one of your drives might not be healthy as well. I had a SSD fail once with a BSOD and upon reboot Windows wouldnt load. Troubleshooting further by plugging the SSD into a External SATA to USB drive dock and connect it to another system of mine to connect to it as an external I ran crystaldiskinfo against it and it was flagged with a warning in the S.M.A.R.T data. Upon trying to format the drive however it got worse and eventually would allow me to create a very small partition in disk management but when trying to format that partition Windows would CARTWHEEL and the format process would crash trying to format it. It was a 6 year old OCZ SSD drive that had heavy use, but they can fail at any time.

Hi there , My name’s Tida.

I have a Microsoft Lumia 535, running Win 10
When I ENTER my storage I should be able to chose where I save items.
On mine there is either no DIALOG/ Chinese / or GIBBERISH in the check box.
Can anybody help ?

Any suggestion WOULD be greatly appreciate.
Thank in advance.
ยูฟ่าเบทThis is your phone:
https://www.gsmarena.com/microsoft_lumia_535-6791.php

Are yu surfeit has Windows 10 ?
So you updated to Windows 10. Is that what you did? Was it working normal before that? Have yu let it update? recently?

Hello, So my COMPUTER's ram is used up to 50%. ALTHOUGH no process uses that much! (7GB!)



So basically my Computer is always on 50% Memory use. let me show you a screenshot :



Could Anyone HELP me PLEASE?



Computer type: PC/Desktop

System Manufacturer/Model Number: Aurora 7 by Dell

OS: Windows 10

CPU: Inter(R) Core i7-8700 3.20ghz

Motherboard: Alienware

Memory: 16GB

Graphic Card
Nividia Gefore GTX 1060 6GBYou can view your system resource usage in greater detail with Process Explorer:

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/process-explorerAs I responded to you on another forum, there is nothing unusual about a system utilizing half of your ram. Unless you are having some specific problems with your computer, don't worry about it.Allan is correct...this isn't the old days...since Vista came out unused RAM is basically wasted RAM.Read Up On SuperFetch ... http://www.osnews.com/story/21471/SuperFetch_How_it_Works_Myths

win 10 dropped windows live and went to outlook and I LOST my hot mail acct.
What can I do to get my information back?Not sure if Microsoft themselves are any help with this... I lost my hotmail account a few years ago. Stopped using it and they tombstoned it on me. Last I heard hotmail was DEAD too. https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/hotmail-no-microsoft-outlook-email-services-explained/I have  e-mail with both services:
HOTMAIL.COM
LIVE.COM
Both of the above behave as standard POP3 services. So I USE Thunderbird as my local e-mail client on my Windows systems.I use the portable version, which lets me use it on different versions of Windows.
Here are some settings.
pop3.live.com   port 995 using  SSL/TLS   standard password.

For sending mail I use the settings for my local ISP. They require that i not use any other. However, the  user sees my Microsoft address and my e-mail.

Most e-mail servers will let you use a local e-mail client for pop3 stuff.
Consult the Thunderbird documentation for more information.


Quote from: Harry72 on November 28, 2018, 07:59:55 PM

win 10 dropped windows live and went to outlook and I lost my hot mail acct.

Hello,

 

I've been building this quite high end PC for a few days and have finally finished it.

There were some ups and downs but I made it happen.

 

SPECS:

 

CPU; Intel - Xeon E5-2650 V4 2.2 GHz 12-Core Processor

CPU Cooler; Deepcool - CAPTAIN 240EX RGB WH 153.04 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

Motherboard; Asus - X99-DELUXE II ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard

RAM; G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory

SSD; Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

HDD; Western Digital - Red Pro 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

GPU; Gigabyte - GeForce GTX Titan X 12 GB Video Card x2

PSU; Cooler Master - V1000 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Operating system: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit

Case; Lian-Li - PC-O8WX ATX Mid Tower Case

 

I have installed windows and made it completely up to date.

 

Now the problem I am having is that I CANT seem to make it run properly.

Something is wrong with my PC and I cant find out what.

 

 

First off:

When installing some programs (not even big ones) my PC just freezes, I have to force quit the program in order for it to function again.

Which means I am never able to install it.

The freezing happens quite often.

Second:

My benchmarks are good, but can be much better.

As I have said I am still kind of a noob at building PC's.

I am pretty sure I have installed EVERYTHING properly, temperatures are fine and drivers should be up to date.

Third:

When I try to use GOOGLE Chrome, It SAYS that I am not connected to the internet, while using others browsers at the same time these seem to work fine.

Tried reinstalling it multiple times, ran it in incognito mode, deleted all extensions, but nothing seems to work.

 

 

I hope you guys can help me figure out these problems.

If you need any more info, I would be so happy to provide this for you.

Since I have contacted my local PC repair shop.

And they asked 85 euros only for diagnosing the problem and 50 euro/hour for fixing it.

 

Feel free to reply on here or pm me.

I will respond ASAP, because I want to fix these problems fast.

 

Thank you in advance for trying to help! I have checked your build list and see a few red flags.

Asus says: Intel Xeon Processor Family is designed for servers. Some features may not support when installed on X99 series chipsets. For more details, refer to ASUS support site at http://support.asus.com.
 
Checking the website doesn't say way this is the case. Also you need 0202 bios version or higher to fully support the xeon processor.

An I7 processor would have been more stable running Windows 10. Lisa_maree is right.
X99 series chip sets are for the Core i7 thing.
https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/feature-understanding-intel-x99-high-performance-computing-platform

Hey,
 
I recently did a hardware upgrade to my pc and it started freezing sometimes, I can't even move my mouse around. I tried updating DRIVERS, BIOS, checking disk for errors, memory test, reinstalling windows and nothing helped so far. Event Logs show no errors aswell.
 
 
MB: Asus Prime Z370-A
 
CPU: Intel i5-8600K
 
GPU: MSI GTX970 GAMING 4G
 
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8GB
 
SSD: SAMSUNG EVO 850 250GB
 
OS: Windows 10 Pro 1809
 
Additional information:
 

• Task manager and other programs don't show any indications of power drops or spikes.
  The freezes started happening after changing my hardware (MB, CPU, RAM)
  Power Savings are disabled and on High Performance
  Tried increasing virtual memory to no avail
  When computer unfreezes I hear HDD working sound for a few seconds (only movies are on hdd, so that was strange because I haven't even opened the disk and I've also noticed it only once because it was the first TIME that I decided to "listen to the system" when it unfreezes).
  Freezes happen once every 1-2 days

• Updating/Downgrading/Resetting BIOS
  Changing virtual memory size
  Upgrading chipset and other drivers
  Disabling hardware acceleration on Chrome
  Using another browser itself (as I thought Chrome was the issue)
  Re-seating CPU/GPU/RAM into same or different slots
  Trying different SATA cables
  Trying another SSD
  Unplugging HDD
  Unplugging GPU
  Memtest 2 times, one with 4 and another with 8 passes
  Checking temperatures (they are fine)
  Running stress test on CPU/RAM and GPU (no issues)
  Disabling Power Savings
  Disabling C-Steps
  Updating SSD firmware

I installed Windows 10 MULTIPLE Editions 64-bit (student Imagine) on new Asus laptop. Wireless did not work so I installed driver from Asus website. Now internet works very slow and sometimes it does not open a page correctly (shows just text, no pictures...). Some people said to me, that I need to do updates. I tried Windows update, but it never moved from 0%. What should I do? Go to https://www.asus.com/support/Download-Center/ and download all drivers or use SDI full from https://sdi-tool.org/ ?New Laptop... and you already have had to install Windows 10 again ( multiple editions )?

Is this new as in a new-used computer?

Please share the model # of this laptop so we can see what exact ASUS laptop your having troubles with.ASUS VivoBook 15 X540UA

It had Linux, but I needed Windows, because of work. Quote from: solap9 on DECEMBER 09, 2018, 08:17:53 AM

ASUS VivoBook 15 X540UA

It had Linux, but I needed Windows, because of work.

If it's still under warranty i'd return it immediately...

Hi,
I have a 4Tb Seagate Expansion Portable Drive.

My Windows messed up so I (stupidly) USED the portable drive to save the Windows recovery files to.

However, this wiped everything (mostly recovered now) but no matter what format I format it as (NTFS,FAT32 etc), the space available after is a fraction of what it was (now just 31.9gb). How do I reset it back to what it was please?Step 1: Connect The Drive
Step 2: Hit the Windows Key and R at the same time.
Step 3: When the "Run" box pops up, type in diskmgmt.msc
Step 4: Find your portable drive from the list, you should see all of the partitions on it currently. BE SURE IT IS NOT DRIVE 0!
Step 5: Backup the files you would like to keep that are currently on the drive. (You will lose your files!)
Step 6: This is important, delete all of the partitions that have the color blue on them. To delete, simply hover over the box (Partition) you want to get rid of and right click it. When the menu pops up, select delete partition. Be sure to delete, and not format.
Step 7: After doing that, should should be left with a long box that has a black line on top.
Step 8: Right-click on the box with the black line above, and select create partition.
Step 9: Complete the wizard without touching any of the settings, and you should be left with a hard drive that is as good as new.

If you are unsure of how to do this, refer to this video. Be wary, this guy is using the hard drive that windows came installed on! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIWh5sFdtcwHere is another thing to consider.
At one time there was an issue with using very large hard drives.
Look here:
https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/windows/en-US/5b26c3bf-a4ae-4604-944d-cd1b53bfaecf/windows-7-doesnt-recognize-all-of-a-4-tb-drive
Above is about windows 7.

https://www.aioboot.com/en/partition-4tb-hard-drive/
The above is about windows 10.
Quote

Windows limits 2TB to MBR disk. This article will GUIDE you how to partition a 4TB Hard Drive with GParted for use on Windows 10.

Step 8: Right-click on the box with the black line above, and select create partition.
Step 9: Complete the wizard without touching any of the settings, and you should be left with a hard drive that is as good as new.

If you are unsure of how to do this, refer to this video. Be wary, this guy is using the hard drive that windows came installed on! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIWh5sFdtcw

Greetings,

As the title states, i have a PC that claims no internet connection from the Microsoft store, updates, news ETC. while it connects just fine to the internet and through Firefox. im running the latest version of windows 10, downloaded and installed sunday night.

any help offered is greatly appreciated.
I just did a clean build today with latest Win 10 Home 64-bit and no problems with store connection. Maybe reboot MODEM and router to make sure nothing strange going on with traffic. My hulu acts up occasionally where no connection and a reboot of broadband modem and router fixes it. Its weird that when this happens everything else works fine and its not just the roku because even going to hulu at a pc cant get there. But after reboot of home NETWORK it comes back into it and works.My recent internet problems are like what DaveLembke said above.
My Internet is with Comcast and they have had some issues because of the recent  fire here in northern California. They indicated that the system is under stress. Partly because they offered free hot spots for people that had to lease their homes.

Of course, each area can have it's own n issues with connectivity. And the browser might not have the exact cause of the trouble.

Comcast users in the USA can check with this ink:
https://www.xfinity.com/support/status/

Back in June they had a mayor issue on the east cost
Comcast Deals With Major Outage Nationwide

Other services should have a page that reports outages by region. Call the 800 support number service of your  provider. Quote from: DaveLembke on November 28, 2018, 10:34:45 PM

I just did a clean build today with latest Win 10 Home 64-bit and no problems with store connection. Maybe reboot modem and router to make sure nothing strange going on with traffic. My hulu acts up occasionally where no connection and a reboot of broadband modem and router fixes it. Its weird that when this happens everything else works fine and its not just the roku because even going to hulu at a pc cant get there. But after reboot of home network it comes back into it and works.

What protection apps do you have and whens the last time you updated/scanned ? ?

What you described in the original post- being unable to use any Internet features from within any Store apps or the Store itself is entirely consistent with the results from the sort of software you described.

Barnacules Nerdgasm is indeed an ex Microsoft employee. This does not, however, preclude the possibility that he has no idea what he is talking about.

Ive used his stuff

Perhaps there's some truth to that, perhaps there isnt. He is at least offering a solution to the spying that windows does, instead of saying people don't know what they are doing.

I asked for a second opinion because this is the first time I've had an issue with any of his tools, as when there are issues, his main followers provide feedback.

Malwarebytes flagged it right away as a PUP for that spybot antibeacon... stopped when I saw that . I was going to check it out but Malwarebytes jumping in means it is likely not clean. 

I either get to big or to SMALL. It's to big and then I use the magnifier
to go smaller but won't go smaller. In my email to it is the same way.
I want to set it so it's just right to view.When I go to settings and ease of access and display where you change text size is
grayed out.What operating system are you using?

You can find this out by pressing the Windows key and the letter R at the same TIME (WIN+R) and typing (don't include the quotes) "winver".w-10 1803 versionClick on Start
Click On Settings (Gear Icon)
Click on System
Click on Display

Your text and scaling settings should be right there.Mine says 175 but it is grayed out and when I click on
the arrow to change it won't work.Try doing the same steps as before, but clicking on advanced scaling settings, and typing in a custom scaling size.

https://imgur.com/a/BcSOzOSThanks I have set it there before but I changed it from 169 150 and also turned the magnifier off. I think it will be OK now. I don't quit KNOW why that one is grayed out though and why their are two places to do that. Maybe the grayed out one is for the icons or something else. So I take it your issue is solved!

Have a GOOD one!
Anthony
Yes it's ok.

I just got a new windows 10 computer, and wanted to make sure I updated all the drivers, so I got some freeware that would do it all for me.  It had good reviews on Cnet, so I went ahead and downloaded it. 

I ran Malwarebytes, and it identified this program as a PUP. I quaranteened all the alerts.  I then did the scan again and it found a couple more.  At this point I just decided to reset windows, getting rid of all my apps and files.

The reset gives you the option to also format the harddrive, but I wasn't sure what this would do-- if it would get rid of windows on the MACHINE altogether, or if I'd lose any software that CAME with the computer.

So I elected to not format the drive.  I reinstalled windows after the reset, installed AVAST and Malwarebytes, and they found no issues (except Avast did find a network issue, strangely, but didn't tell me what it was; just said it was now resolved). 

What should I do? Is it worth formatting the drive for a PUP issue? If I do, will I be able to get Windows 10 Pro back?Pup's are relatively harmless...THINK of cookies on STEROIDS...PUP = Potentially Unwanted Program. They are programs that are sometimes installed by other programs without user consent, and are typically (not always) of questionable quality or integrity.

Hello all, I usually don't post on these tech support forums but the problem I have is driving me crazy, and I don't have the luxury to drop off my laptop at a repair place for 1+ week.

The problem is basically what I said in the title. I'm using an Asus Q525, Windows 10, and whenever I play any kind of sound on my laptop, either headphones plugged in or not, there's this really annoying cracking sound that sometimes is bearable because it's soft, but sometimes it's really NOTICEABLE and I can't listen to anything. I know it's a laptop problem and not my headphones because my headphones work just fine with other devices.

I tried pretty much all of the troubleshooting tips I already found online. Since I'm no techie, I really don't want to open up my laptop to find out the hardware issue. Here's a laundry list of things I tried:

- Updating my audio driver
- Changing sound format to 16 bit DVD Quality
- Disabling sound enhancement
- Uninstalling Realtek High Defn Audio from device manager and installing High Defn Audio (not Realtek)
(I had to give up on this one because no sound refused to play after I did this, so I reverted BACK to Realtek)
- Changing power settings so that the min processor state is set at 100%.

Literally nothing works. When I did the 4th bullet point (after I reinstalled Realtek), the problem actually seemed to go away but it came right back after 5 mins or so. I'd very much appreciate any help.The problem might be in the BIOS, check the settings or update to latest BIOS for the said laptop. If all else fails get urself a usb sound dongleYou can also try reverting your BIOS to default settings, just make sure to set them back the way you want them. If that doesn't work, you could try refreshing windows. It keeps your files, bust basically resets most settings and reinstalls windows. That might keep your audio settings, so if that doesn't work, I personally would  go though the wizard to reset windows to factory settings. (You will lose all of your data if you do this, so I don't recommend it, unless you know how to back up your files.)

It could be something simple too like updating your BIOS, theres always that. 

Cheers!
Anthony Quote from: modobo on November 05, 2018, 02:29:18 AM

The problem might be in the BIOS, check the settings or update to latest BIOS for the said laptop. If all else fails get urself a usb sound dongle

If you're like me and you're staring at an annoying "Activate Windows" watermark today, you're not alone...

Apparently Microsoft is aware of a problem with Windows 10 machines becoming incorrectly deactivated and is working on a fix.

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/windows-suddenly-deactivated/fe9a4ecf-2e2a-491d-a43e-b010c316d1c4

People with Pro versions have been downgraded to Home versions...the latest update is a nightmare...

Amazing how bad they are borking things...I wish that were the case with my newer Core i3 Dell Inspiron 15 ( 3000 series ) Laptop. Looks like I am GOING to have to do factory install on it.

The latest update caused my laptop to boot to a logon screen, then enter my password and black screen with cursor and nothing else. By USING CTRL + ALT + DELETE I can bring up task manager window while the desktop is still blacked out. From that I was able to RUN CMD.EXE and perform a SHUTDOWN /S and get it to shut down.

But on every boot now after the latest Windows 10 update its the same brings me to a non productive state. 

More on it here: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-update/black-screen-with-cursor-after-windows-10-update/5eab5aa8-6881-4701-8411-0a846693fc9b

My other computers running Windows 10 went through the update without any issues. Good thing this laptop isnt the only computer I own.  I'm running Win 10 on multiple machines, I encountered this on one of my machines YESTERDAY.  Noticed the watermark in the lower right corner.  Went into Settings and clicked on "Activate", activation failed.  Clicked on "Troubleshoot" got a message that Windows was now activated. 

Nothing more than a minor annoyance for me.Yesterday the troubleshooter failed for me, this morning the problem magically disappeared. Another day of EXCITEMENT and adventure in the magical world of Windows 10.Microsoft says that any "deactivated" installations will "reactivate" within 24 hours. Alternatively, you can use the troubleshoot option strollin mentioned.Abd it doesn't work...my re-activation still has me stuck with Win Home...Worked for me (W10 Pro)

Hi!

I have installed NTVDM x64 on 64-bit WINDOWS 10 allowing me running 16-bit DOS software.
Some programs have PIF what was used also in Windows 3.x. Also if I want to create LNK to EXE, it always creates PIF.
I know that's in NTVDM normal, but OUTSIDE NTVDM it works not and displays message that program is not compatible with current Windows and cannot run.

I tried to create links to them, but it always copies PIF FILE in selected location.

I want to ask if is possible to create simple LNK (link/shortcut) file to any DOS program or LNK from PIF. Maybe it is possible to create link to DOS program by calling NTVDM with command line options, but don't know how.
Is it possible?

Thank you for all.
Miro

Hi!

I need to notify some actions of my batch files scheduled in time - notify about success/failure.
It's easy to notify by window - but it remains on screen until is closed.

Is possible to send notification to action center from BAT (batch) file?

Thank you for all suggestions.
MiroAre you willing to install an app, or must it be entirely Windows native? I personally use Growl for this; it can even show notifications from other computers on the LAN, using Windows, MacOS, or Linux, provided they have a Growl sender installed. Today, the official site seems to be down, but there is a Github branch

https://github.com/MartinSGill/growl-for-windows-branched

Official site:

http://www.growlforwindows.com/

Another similar alternative is Snarl

https://snarl.fullphat.net/



Or you can create notifications with this app

http://www.l2adv.com/_32BitProgs/L2ToastNotification.zip

Hi!

I was searching net and found really nice not require any program, here's:

Code: [Select]call :notif "{The title}" "{The message}"

:notif
::SYNTAXE : call :notif "Titre" "Message"

set type=Information
set "$Titre=%~1"
Set "$Message=%~2"

::You can replace the $ICON value by Information, error, warning and none
Set "$Icon=Information"
for /f "delims=" %%a in ('powershell -c "[reflection.assembly]::loadwithpartialname('System.Windows.Forms');[reflection.assembly]::loadwithpartialname('System.Drawing');$notify = new-object system.windows.forms.notifyicon;$notify.icon = [System.Drawing.SystemIcons]::%$Icon%;$notify.visible = $true;$notify.showballoontip(10,'%$Titre%','%$Message%',[system.windows.forms.tooltipicon]::None)"') do (set $=)

goto:eof
It SENDS notification to Action Center.

Also command line allows to notify by window:

msg {username} "{message}"

Thank you for all. Hope this can help also others.
Miro

I COULD very much do so with Windows 7, the latest Medieval Cue Splitter 2.1 is win 10 compatible but HORRIBLE and not working.
I'm pretty sure if I can't put this software and my personnal default tool, many people should have similar ISSUES with windows 10. Any workaround?

Please can anyone explain the boot up procedure for Win 10, 8 and 7. I do not think they are the same. Im also trying to find out why when I choose a flavour of Windows from the boot up menu, instead of the computer to go straight to the selected Windows it restarts the computer.How much detail do you need?
what is the objective?
How much do you already know?

The low-level code of Windows is not PUBLISHED.  So it might be a violation of the Microsoft license if I, or anybody,  gave you the annotated source code.

Linux is open source. You can study well documented files.Of course if is not the same as windows. The full source code of Linux is available.

Before going further, please respond to my questions. That can help me and others here provide the best answer. 

Meanwhile, here is a link about how Windows XP does boot up.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/79335-45-explain-boot-process
Look it over, no quick answer was given.  Thanks for your response Geek-9pm. I dont know anything about the start up procedure of  Win 7 8 10, Im old school, I only know BIOS and Dos stuff. The computer Im working on does not use old BIOS, I think its UEFI they call it now.

The objective is to design my own boot up code and put it on usb. I dont like the way Windows have done theirs. When I choose  say Win 7 from the boot up menu on selected drive, instead of it to go to Win 7, it restarts and goes back to UEFI, I dont like that.

On my computer I have been using the uEFI  boot manager to choose the drive that I want. I got 5 independent drives with different partitions and diff os.  On one of the drives with 7 and 8 I got win 10. So what happens is win 10 just wont play ball even if set as the default OS. If I last logged out of win 10 then the next time I put on the pc and select that particular drive, I would not get a windows boot menu, it will simply go straight to win 10. Though it goes to my account and I log in, the desktop would not be my desk top or where I left off. I have to restart and go through the bios boot manager again, choose the drive again and sometimes I have to repeat this 4 times before I get a windows boot manager for that particular drive. Only after going through the windows boot manager and choosing win 10 would I see my own desktop.  There is only one account on that win 10, no other. I dont know what is causing this or where the ghost desktop is coming from.

Anyway I don't want to bore you will all the other issues Im facing on my setup but I feel that if I can make a usb boot drive then the boot up menu for all the partitions can be programmed onto it.  The problem I am facing is that if it were dos, I could have used something like EasyBCD but that wont work on current windows os like 8 or 10, I dont think its compatible with uefi. All the examples of multiboot stuff on google and youtube are for those trying to install an os.  Nobody is designing a bootable usb for choosing which os u want to boot  into.

This is from dictation. There may be some errors.

Okay, now I have an idea of what you're trying to do.
There are a number of different free boot loaders available out there. But only a few of these have source code available. And of these, I think there is only one that would be useful to you. I am thinking about a version of GRUB used by the Linux community for booting both Linux and Windows on one computer. It is called GRUB 2 and here is a link on Wikipedia that covers all the major boot loaders in COMMON use.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_boot_loaders

If you have not already done so, please look over this article very carefully. It has the information you need to help you write your own boot loader, if that is what you want to do.
Also, note that some boot loaders are not scriptable. When they say scriptable, it means the boot loader can be programmed with a script that gives it the behaviors you want to load the operating system you want. That is a much better option than trying to write everything yourself from scratch. The script adds very little overhead to the total size of the boot loader and has little impact on the speed of the book loader. The boot load speed is mostly a function of the size of the system and the speed of the hard drive and not a function of how big the script is.
Another alternative would be to purchase one of the commercial boot loaders that have been designed to handle both Windows, Linux and the new firmware now in use on personal computers.
This is the best I can do for you. I've used boot loaders for many years and have LEARNED how to boot different versions of Windows and Linux. But trying to boot from another drive gets to be an issue. The computer firmware wants to boot from just one device. If that device is not available, it tries the next device in the list.
Microsoft has made some adjustments to Windows so that you can now boot Windows from a USB device. With older versions of Windows that was not possible.
I hope this is of some help to you.
And yes, it is possible to use GRUB to boot to either Linux or Windows or even an operating system on another drive. Somewhere in the documentation it's there, but I was not able to find it myself and I ended up needing to use the firmware to switch to another device.

End of my dictation.Hi Geek, thanks for the INFO, I will start investigating GRUB2 right away. I will let u know how its going and how it goes, with xmas approaching, I wonder when I get done learning GRUB2 but the tortoise always REACHES its destination. Hi

Perhaps check out this boot loader http://www.rodsbooks.com/refind/

There is a lot of information on the site regarding why the program is needed and how to get the best from the program

And there is a ton of info here https://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/beyond-bios  Wow, good work Lisa, thanks

Hi!

I was searching for utility which can scale (magnify) and RESIZE SINGLE SELECTED window.
I found utility ZoomIt and I'm using 3 LCDs with my computer.
Its benefit is that magnifies only actual desktop, not all.
But Q is: is possible to zoom single window only? Or other tool can do it?

Thank you for help.
MiroNo idea?
MiroI found solution today.

It is Window Watcher.
Works fantastic, you can select window from running applications - important is to start it as admin - and then it SHOWS new magnified window which is possible to resize, zoom in/out and MOVE. But for example command line editing (using commands) - work window - must to have focus.

Very recommended.
Miro

Hey everyone, I recently upgraded to Windows 10 Pro and in the process I just fully cleaned out my hard drive as I had absolutely nothing of value on it. So, I then installed Windows 10 Professional and activated it, and got to using it. I hadn't looked much into any new settings other than BitLocker recently and when I went to go manage it, there was a bar at the top saying, "For your security, some settings are managed by your system administrator.

Now, I have full control over the laptop, I have UAC control and can do anything I want, there are no packages installed in TPM Administration,  and there seems to be nothing in general controlling my computer. I have scanned with an anti-virus but there is nothing that it picked up.

So my question is, is that normal or should I be concerned? Is there any action that I should be taking?

Thanks a bunch!
AnthonyJust curious if you wanted BitLocker Encryption on the drive?

I see this as a general message. Microsoft has been known to have some confusing messages in places from time to time. If your ABLE to go in and make changes to everything as an admin of the system and this Windows 10 Pro was an ISO downloaded from Microsoft, and activated against their servers as genuine then nothing to worry about other than loss of access to your DATA if you lose the encryption key to access it.

Myself I dont bother with encryption on my systems because nothing to hide from anyone else on it. However since this is a laptop and could be stolen it makes sense to use it if you fear your personal data getting into the wrong hands etc.

Yes, I did want BitLocker on the drive. I as well have nothing to hide but I just don't want anyone getting access to my accounts that I am currently signed into on my browsers, family pictures, etc.

Thanks for the reply!I bet when it chuggs to a halt bitlocker lasts less than 2 weeks...

And yes that is a generic Win message...PATIO, what do you mean by it chugging to a halt?You'll see...That's nice. I ask a question on a form like this and I get "You'll see."

I want to know so that way I can take action immediately, I don't wanna be left with "You'll see." and then I'm suck with a problem. Come on. Be sensible.Hi Anthony

If you check on the screen shot you posted there is the option to make a key recovery I would make 2 because you will need these. Bit locker isn't without it's problems. And repairing windows 10 is more difficult with encryption.
So I would RECOMMEND making sure your drive is healthy a program called hd sentinel monitors this in real time. And also do regular full backups with say easues to do backup workstation.
I think what patio means given the speed loose and the need to either have the usb key or put the security key in each time you start windows most people give up and remove it.


 Yepper...Thanks Lisa for the proper reply.

I'll heed that advice and remove BitLocker. This laptop already has the issue of turning off spontaneously if you move it the wrong way, I don't need a crappy startup either. I'll settle for a Hard Disk password instead, and a BIOS startup password.

Thanks again Lisa!It's ironic how fast the drive decrypts itself. Considering that I have had the drive encrypting itself for two days, the friggin' thing is already at 96 percent in less than three minutes!

Hey everyone, I have a Dell Inspiron 5555  with a One Terabyte HDD and I upgraded to windows 10 Professional because I knew about BitLocker and wanted to use it because I take my privacy seriously. So, today I only went to school for a half a day, so I started the process at around 10:30 AM and then went to school and went through a Driver's Ed class. So I came home at around 7:00 PM. I knew that encrypting the full drive would be the best option as it is not a new installation. So, I thought that at the minimum it would be at 75 percent complete because of the size of the drive and it being a smaller form factor.

But I checked it, and was only at 26 percent!

Now, I set my computer to stay on while plugged in and to not go to sleep or display the lock screen, so there could be no chance of the drive sleeping. Forgive me if I'm wrong but it should not be taking this long. Is there something I am doing wrong? (That rhymes!)

Thanks for any advice, as it will eventually complete, but I just WANT an explanation. Thanks!

By the way, only about 80 gigs are being used currently, so that shouldn't have an effect either. I have never used Bit locker.
Does the documentation have any INFORMATION about how long it takes?

Here is what I would do if I ever wanted to use Bit locker.
I would decide the drive into partitions.
I would use bit Locker on each partition, one at a time.
Does that seem REASONABLE?

Here is a link:

Encryption Takes a Long Time.
Thanks geek, but I prefer just one main partition, but thanks for the reply, it has since moved up slightly. I guess it has something to do with the fact that Windows WANTS to leave the computer usable, and since my drive is slower, it needs to give more data control to the user than something like an SSD.

Makes Sense!If this is taking this long imagine what it is going to be like using the laptop.
Expect windows to take 8 or more minutes to boot, opening programs is going to be so slow.
I wonder if you considered using a hard drive password instead?. Which wouldn't have any effect on the load times.
Now you have started you will need to just leave it for a few days to finish and then maybe remove bit locker. The GOOD news is it is faster to remove than to do the encryption.     Lisa, I think I will be alright. I would rather have my data better secured with actual encryption that is way harder to break than a hard drive password.

Thanks for the reply!Another consideration regarding encryption though perhaps not helpful for your original problem- I personally use an encrypted drive via VeraCrypt for data I wish to remain secured. It basically creates a large file that you can mount using the Veracrypt software. Even with Bitlocker it can be useful, as you could use it on an external or flash drive and move it to other systems, where you can mount it via the VeraCrypt software as well.

IM SEARCHING MP3 FILES ON AN EXTERNAL SSD ,BUT AFTER TYPING THE NAME OF THE FILES IT DOESNT FIND ANYTHING ,IT USED TO WORK FINE AND VERY QUICK ...Hello Maico

Can you see any files on the external drive ?  If not then you may have fallen into a trap a lop of PEOPLE do with putting a SSD into an external case as a external drive. This is fine providing you can correctly disconnect the drive each time . An ssd does a lot of back ground tasks which if power is suddenly lost can cause total or partial data loss (a bit like in the days of mechanical drives loosing power when doing a defrag.). If you can't see any files and the drive is showing as the correct size then sorry to be the BEARER of bad news but the files are gone.
I KEEP copies of all my ssd's on old mechanical drives. I love the speed of an ssd but don't have a lot of faith in the long term data retentive of  ssds.

Hi!

I need to use Unicode text editor in command line.
I found Micro editor and there is active UNIX encoding - in help I found not any encoding change.
Exist any editor with Unicode or multiple encoding support?
Even maybe 16-bit for DOS?

Thank you for help.
MiroNo idea?
Miro Quote from: MIRKOSOFT on November 20, 2018, 10:15:31 AM

No idea?
Miro

I am TRYING to import STICKY notes of window 7 to window 10. here what i did

• %LocalAppData%\Packages\Microsoft.MicrosoftStickyNotes_8wekyb3d8bbwe\LocalState
• created new FOLDER Legacy
• copied Stickynotes.snt file
• renamed it to Thresholdnotes.snt
• open the sticky NOTE app
• nothing SHOWS up.

Hi!

I installed NTVDMx64 succesfully and all 16-bit applications, even games are working, but few have exceptions:
I tried to start one of app (64HDD Pro) and it REPORTS that direct disk access is not allowed.
I need this application and really don't know how to enable direct disk access in Windows (no matter which NT version).
I'm using Windows 10.1803 Pro x64 and I know that DOS has other accessing disk and many other in current OSes not supported features.
So,
is possible to allow direct disk access for 16-bit programs (or not all - only selected)?

Second application collection CTOOLS reports that it cannot to be executed - really don't know why - in Windows VISTA x86, 7 x86 and 10 x86 (after installing NTVDMx86) works.
Where can be problem or what a tweak it needs?

Thank you for each word!
MiroNTVDMx64 is a poor and LOOSELY weitten app that has zero support...Good Luck with it...especially on a 64 bit OS.You cannot ENABLED direct disk access for Virtualized MS-DOS Programs under any release of Windows NT.

Quote

Second application collection CTOOLS reports that it cannot to be executed

Hi!

I installed NTVDMx64 succesfully and all 16-bit applications, even games are working, but few have exceptions:
I tried to start one of app (64HDD Pro) and it reports that direct disk access is not allowed.
I need this application and really don't know how to enable direct disk access in Windows (no matter which NT version).
I'm using Windows 10.1803 Pro x64 and I know that DOS has other accessing disk and many other in current OSes not supported features.
So,
is possible to allow direct disk access for 16-bit programs (or not all - only selected)?

Second application collection CTOOLS reports that it cannot to be executed - really don't know why - in Windows Vista x86, 7 x86 and 10 x86 (after installing NTVDMx86) works.
Where can be problem or what a tweak it needs?

Thank you for each word!
Miro

Hi!

I installed in new WINDOWS 10.1803 Pro X64 again NTVDMx64.
All is working correctly except:
sound - I installed VDM Sound, Gravis Ultrasound - not working both (only SW using speaker produces sound)
IO ports - I have Port Talk driver, but don't know how to register DLLs - always reports not correctly registered
direct disk access - I know that in current OSes it is not allowed, but exist any trick how to allow it?

THANK you for help.
MiroNo IDEA?
Miro

I turned it on today and it was fine. When I went to shut it down it asked about completing updates. I clicked yes.
Upon turning it on again, it took ages to boot up then add password.
Once I did all if my desktop and documents have gone. Its saying no network hardware and you cant get on the internet.
You click on windows button and it does nothing.

It will only allow me to right click and go into task bar for which its limited to whats there.

I tried to go through the security, user, program files to see if I can work out whats gone wrong. My created folders are there but nothing in then and I cant even get on the internet.

It said at one point, attempt was made to ref a token doesnt exist.
It also said create association in default apps from the settings PAGE but you have no way of getting to that option.

I have only had it for a month and tried everything by going through the menus in turn
It has got windows 10 on it

I have turned it back on again and it took ages to boot up and now says unknown hard error ?
Is it still under warranty? If so, you should definitely use that to your advantage.

This sounds like it might have been caused by a virus or something happened where a large amount of files were corrupted. If you have KNOWLEDGE of computers you could try and use the Windows Media that came with your computer and repair your installation that way. This is rather strange and this has happened to be before on an old laptop of MINE. It was my fault because I connected the laptop's hard drive to another computer and I tried to run a file recovery wizard and then some data got corrupted and then the whole operating system started to fail. It sounds EXACTLY like what you are describing.

Since I work in computers, I just re-installed windows onto the thing since I didn't have any VITAL files on it that I needed.

Hope it all works out.
Anthony

Not sure if this is hardware or software... or if there are any programmes to check to establish what the exact problem is?


My partner has a Packard Bell Desktop - it has had some slow loading, OPERATING and shutting down issues but it seems to have resolved itself - or nothing obvious. The Recycling Bin had a file in it seemed to cause one issue and the recycling didn't want to empty (but has now emptied).

There is a now a problem where intermittent and continuous beeping starts... carries on for a few minutes... and then stops. As this evening - we weren't even using the computer - it was switched on - and it suddenly starts beeping - in fact more like a squeaking-beep - not the same as a start-up beep. and continuous beeping without any pattern of a number of beeps. Then, just as it starts - it stops.

 
Cannot see anything obvious in the task manager.

 

I fear it is a precursor to a greater problem - for the moment it is simply annoying... but trying to get to the bottom of what is causing it...

 

The computer is
System Packard imedia S3800
Motherboard - Packard FIH57
Memory 0.5 GB free of 3 GB 1.3 GHz
Display 1366 x 768 - 32 Bit colors
OS Windows 10
BIOS DATE 20091223
 
anyone?Well for one, the BIOS date is wrong. 

The first thing I would do would be to install Avast! anti-virus and do a full scan of your computer to determine if it is a virus or malicious PROGRAM causing this issue. If there is nothing, it most likely has SOMETHING to do with the hardware side of things.

Be sure to post back here if there was any results!

Try opening up the computer's BIOS settings so that way you are not in any operating system environment, so that way there should be no sound coming through the attached speakers. Leave the computer in this state for a while to make sure that no beeps can be heard. If you hear beeps while the computer is idling at this BIOS page, it is most likely something hardware related. If you don't then it probably something to do with your Windows Installation.

Hope everything works out!
Anthony

P.S. This is off topic but that computer seems to be getting a little dated. If your partner is using this for their main driver, I would be LOOKING to upgrade if you had the capacity to! Would make a great gift!