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Hi!

I own two domains and want to leave part of space for users to upload my selected filetypes.
I'm owner and domain admin and owner.
I want to allow users register by specific mail and then give them password ALLOWING them to upload files or auto-update existing files to specified folder.
My webhosting this supports not, I need application to use it, best with SOURCE code to adapt it for myself.

Really I'm lost and don't know what type to search over the web.
Can anybody recommend me any application? Best with source code and free?

Thank you for help, reply or comments.

MiroHi,

To be honest I think your best way would be to move you domains to Office 365 or Google as would fit your needs I believe.  I manage a domain of 1500 users and I'm currently moving file STORAGE to Office 365 using OneDrive and SharePoint Online.

Cheers,
KarlOk, I try Google - it's free, I own not license of Office365.
My domains cannot to be moved, I'm using it for my own websites, not for ul/dl - this I wanted only.

Can you tell me any advice where or better to say - how to begin?

Thank you very much.
Mirotechbeard was under the misconception, I think, that you were talking about *corporate* domains involving a large number of computers connected to a domain controller, rather than Internet Domains.

The domains aren't relevant here, though. They just give you the domain name eg. (www.example.com) and you can set what IP Address it goes to. That is what web hosting is for. You'll want to look for Content Management systems, I expect.Really what I' mtalking about:

I'm developer of OS for 8-bit Commodore retrocomputers.
It will support networking.
I want provide small app "E-Note" to upload notes of registered users and then write small app also for modern OS.
E-Note sync will be possible only for registered users and provided will be also password.
I have enough space on my domain 'cause it will be not able to sync LOT of data - limited for many reasons.

So, I need application which allows to manage registered users ACCESS and data. Nothing less.
My webhosting provides it not.

MiroVery wrong reason?
I'm not sure...
Miro

Hello Everyone,

Have a situation, would appreciate your valuable support and answer on this.

I have a small office environment with a Windows Server 2012 STANDARD edition in place along with 6 Windows PCs connected to a basic network system, wherein which non of the clients are connected to the server via active directory but WORK as individual workstations. The dhcp and dns is provided by the router itself.

Now the Server has a tally server software running, along with the clients running the tally client software on their systems respectively.

We have a couple of folders on the server that needs to be shared on the network in order for the client PCs to be able to access these folders for the tally to work properly.

The server already has active directory installed on it with some users created for that domain, now the necessary users have been given full privileges to access these shared folders.

However, when we type in the \\ and server IP to access these shared folder we get an login page, then when typing that full privilege user's name and password, we get the access denied message, which happens to occur via my network places, etc. But for some reason depending on the moment or time, the PC suddenly can access these shared folders via my network places and can be mapped after typing in the username and password, so then tally works.

Although typing in the server IP to access these shared folders never goes in, and says access denied again.(even though we can access those shared folders during that moment)

Now I don't think this is a windows 10 issue, cause its the same problem with other versions of windows as well.

Appreciate if you can help me out.

Thank YouAre you using both the Share and NTFS security permissions? If one contradicts the other its possible to get odd interactions at times.  I recommend opening NTFS permissions up to everyone but restricting the Share security to only those 6 computers in a group, if that's the case. 

There are other suggestions and an actual resolution to a problem similar to yours at this link: https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/windows/en-US/b58a08ee-7d7c-4d73-a8e3-587a89f0d67a/domain-users-recieve-access-denied-errors-for-folders-they-have-permissions-to-access?forum=winserverfilesHi,

I would recommend doing it the other way AROUND, set the permissions on the share to everyone and then restrict the NTFS permissions, this gives you a stronger level of security as even logged in to the server the permissions are RESTRICTED.  This is how it's done in most companies and institutions.

Cheers,
Karl

Hi.. Dunno if anyone encountered the same problem as me. I have a 2TB hard drive by WD. I use it to connect to my Smart TV (watching movies and listening to music) and also onto a MAC at work and Windows Laptop at home. It recently went corrupted and I was unable to access the files on any of the computers plus was unable to see it on the Smart TV. But I partially resolved it with Command Prompt. Now it's working on Windows OS. But still invisible on the Smart TV and MAc. Any ideas?On a MAC? On a PC? Same drive?   

How valuable is your time?
My best advice to you is to get another portable mass storage device and put your movies on the new device.

My reasons? Any attempt to repair a corrupted huge portable HDD USED by two disparate systems is a real can of worms.

Here is a general reference about the issue here.
https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/how-to-share-external-hd-mac-windows/
Quote

A less obvious, but possibly the best solution to using a hard drive with both Windows and Mac without the use of third-party software would be to create two partitions on the drive, on for Windows and one for Mac. This essentially tricks the computer into thinking there are multiple hard drives connected to the computer at once despite there only being one.

EDIT: Anybody can now buy a good 256 GB USB thumb drive for under $35.

restore my w-10. how can I restore my w-10 back to when I started it from w-7Info is at the PC manuf. site...it's called Factory Restore.I'm confused.
do you want to go back to Win7 or to the first Win10 version (1507?) you installed when upgrading from Win7 or fresh install the latest Win10 (1803)?I think he/she want to go back to windows 7, it must be a driver availability issues which not available on windows 10 on the manufacturer site driver, you can restore it back by using the restore back-up.Rather than guess what the OP wants (and it's unclear to me too), I think we're better off waiting for his or her response.+ 1I was thinking about GOING back to out of the box w-10. But can I go to a fresh w- 1803
or does that cost me ? thanks for your answersif you already upgraded from Win7 to 10, then you already have your DIGITAL ENTITLEMENT and can reload Windows 10 again and it will auto-activate.
during the install process when it asks you to enter the Product Key, tick the box "I don't have the key right now, ask me later" and Windows will continue to install, then activate itself when you go online.

get Windows 10 1803 from here - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
save the ISO to your PC and burn it to a DVD to use then in the PC you want to reload Windows 10 onto.Mark.
Nice POST and link.  I don't quit understand the last PART of your answer. Do I have to do that last part. I guess I don't know how to do that. Thanks for the good information.

save the ISO to your PC and burn it to a DVD to use then in the PC you want to reload Windows 10 from the link in my post, click the Download Tool Now button.
the will download the Media Creation Tool, run that and select the Create installation media option when prompted.
select your Language, Edition and Architecture then either create an ISO file onto your PC or create a bootable USB flash drive with the image on it.

either method allows you to then use that ISO image (when burnt to a DVD) or that USB stick to install Windows 1803 onto other devices.

Email message not going with my email. It sends but It forgets to send the message.
The subject is there.  Many here are reedy to help you with your problem.
However, some DETAIL is needed. Do not GIVE you e-mail meme, but tell us what service your are using.

Also, are you running a Windows computer? Now if you are using a smart phone or a tablet computer, gibe us some details.

When I want to test my mail service, I send a message from my computer to my smartphone that has a different account. Almost ALWAYS the mistake is MINE and not the service.   

There is not any problem with one person having more than one e-mail
Look at this:
https://www.lifewire.com/top-free-email-services-1171481
Quote

You don't have to settle for the email service that came with your internet or web hosting and you CERTAINLY don't have to pay a ton of money to get a great email service; you can be picky. And when you are, your chosen email service will reward you with plenty of – possibly unlimited – storage, effective spam filtering, a fast and productive web interface

I recently bought a new (reconditioned actually, but new to me) COMPUTER which came with Windows 10. 

I've been shutting it down each night.  Each time I boot it again, the Device Manager pops up.  EVERYTHING looks normal on it.

I know that some programs that aren't completely shut down will reboot on rebooting the computer.  But those are listed under the inverted caret (show hidden icons symbol) on the RIGHT side of the task bar NEXT to the 'people' icon.    But I don't see anything there that looks like the Device Manager.

Is it trying to tell me something?  Is this an error message of some sort?You can use a program like Autoruns (or something simple like Startup Control Panel https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/startup_control_panel_standalone_version.html) and see which entry is calling for device manager. Then UNCHECK it.

After using an XP computer for 14 years, I was thrilled to find Frys Electronics offering an
HP Elite 8200 SFF.  The Googling I did before the purchase assured me I could run most old software on it; so did the 13 year old salesman.  ;-)   

At home, I tried loading my software on it.   Nothing too exotic or challenging:  WordPerfect 11, Microsoft Office 2000, Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0, Nero 7 Essentials.   I have too many files in those formats to just dump them.

Nothing runs.

Windows 10's old software function doesn't run them.  Excel 2000 looks like it runs, but Word 2000 shuts down in the middle of a document. 

Googling pointed me at Virtual PC 2007, but that won't run either.  An article offers a procedure to fool Windows 10 into thinking it's running, but that involves changing the name of the program in multiple places, replacing certain files, and making a number of elaborate changes.   Feels like diving into ice water.

Then the article mentioned Hyper V, which, if I understand correctly, is the Windows 10 version of Virtual PC.  Then why are there so many articles about Virtual PC 2007?  A link took me to Virtualbox and other possibles.

I have no CLUE which way to turn.  Which alternative is better?  Pros/Cons?  Are there others that might be better?

Can anyone offer some wisdom?



8200 SFF Intel i7 that runs at 3.4 gig, has 8 gig RAM and 2 Terabyte HD under Windows 10 Home.

For Wordperfect 11, find the executable file and go the compatibility tab under properties in the right-click menu. You want to set the compatibility mode to "Windows 95" (not Windows XP as you might expect), check off "Run as Administrator" as well as "Disable Display scaling on High DPI Settings".

For Office, the 2010 releases are the earliest version that is supported on Windows 10. However, earlier versions can be made to work going back to Office 95.

For Office 2000 this claimed it was doable by simply clicking ignore during some setup prompts, and Outlook 2000 required a compatibility mode.

From what I found, Photoshop Elements will not run if you have more  than 1TB of Free disk space.

I cannot find many details on Nero 7, but one forum thread I found suggested using "Windows XP" in the compatibility tab for the properties of the *installer* file when installing the program, as well as after installation if it didn't work.

Virtual PC 2007 isn't compatible with Windows 10 to begin with so I don't know what articles might have pointed you at it. They may have been intended for describing how to run older software on Windows Vista or Windows 7.Microsoft’s free virtual machine software is only available on Win 10 Pro.


Have been using it for a few months now when VMWare and VirtualBox VM’s both stopped working on 1803 release.  and the solutions to get them working was harder than just getting Hyper V setup.Setting up a virtual machine is probably your best bet for what you want.

I use both VMWare and VirtualPC on Windows 10 (build 1803) without issue, not sure why they stopped working for Mark. I didn't need to make any changes to accommodate them. Both are free to download and are usable on both Win 10 Home and Win 10 Pro.

Since you are new to virtual machines, do you realize that you must install an OS into the virtual machine first, prior to installing your software?  For your use, you will need an XP install disk.  A virtual machine works very similarly to a physical machine, the difference is that it is implemented only in software.

Your original question asks, "How can I run very old software under Windows 10?".  I have Virtual Machines running many OSes under Windows 10 such as DOS, Win 3.1, Win 95 and XP so it's definitely possible.

A possible alternative is to find newer software that is compatible with your old files.  For instance, Office 365 would be able to read/write your Office 2000 files.   LibreOffice (which is free to download) can read/write Office and Wordperfect files. 
From dictation.
For what it's worth, I also use WordPerfect 11 **and I have a valid reason for doing that. I have some important legal documents that were created in WordPerfect 11 eachyear.
Now I  have no intention of going back and re-formatting years of legal documents. In fact, I believe that would make the documents invalid. So I have to keep a working copy of WordPerfect 11 in order to be able to read tea those documents and their original FORMAT without any changes. And I have no reason to experiment with something else. For my intended purpose WordPerfect 11 works, so why change it?

And yes, Windows 10 does not do a perfect job of working with older software. My personal solution to the problem was to create a dual-boot machine that has both Windows XP and Windows 10 on the same hard drive. I've done it many, many times and have found that it is always a challenge but not impossible. Just very annoying.

The preferred way to dual-boot a desktop computer is to have two separate physical hard drives. But with a small form factor machine is very hard to find a place to PUT another hard drive. One way to get around that is to buy a 2 1/2 inch laptop hard drive and find someplace inside the small form factor case where you can stick a 2 1/2 inch hard drive.

The machine that the original poster bot looks to be a very attractive small form factor desktop. Here is a video from an Australian who BOUGHT one used and is very satisfied.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NSocVEYPJE
Looks like there mightbe a place to put a small drive inside. 

** Thee is a service pack for  Wordperfect 11.
Quote from: strollin on August 03, 2018, 07:39:45 AM

A possible alternative is to find newer software that is compatible with your old files.  For instance, Office 365 would be able to read/write your Office 2000 files.   LibreOffice (which is free to download) can read/write Office and Wordperfect files.

I really like the feature of Snap where if you drag down the title bar of a maximized Firefox window, the window HALVES in size. However the auto-maximizing of smaller windows I find a real nuisance. Is there a way to have the feature that I like, without having to SUFFER the irritation of the other ? I thought maybe a SNAP confined to a program of choice - like you can do with 'Always on top'. Does anyone know ? I run Win10 32bit v1803 on a PCI can leave SNAP disabled to avoid unwanted resizing, and resize Firefox by means of Win-Up and Win-Down hotkeys.The options that are provided within Windows itself are somewhat limited, but the internal settings, which are stored in the REGISTRY, might provide the additional granularity you want.

Code: [Select]HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Desktop has a "DockMoving" value which as I understand it corresponds to the feature where moving a window to the left, right, or top of a screen will attempt to dock to either side, or maximize when dragged to the top. If you change this value to zero, you MAY be able to have it so you can drag maximized windows and have them auto-restore, without having them maximize if you drag windows to the top.

There are no program-specific settings as far as I can find.

Adobe is up to DATE but a large amount of videos will not play on Lenovo 310 Win 10 laptop.
Driver is Intel HD Graphics 520.
It is supposed to be the most up to date available, although there is a little red SPOT beside it.
Have no idea how to replace it if necessary.Sounds like a driver issue...where did you get them from ?Sorry, I am not sure that I understand the question.
Drivers are listed in Device Manager and came installed.
There are indications that it could be a video LOADING issue.Sounds like a video codec issue to me.  The default programs on windows aren't built to play all kinds of video files.  I strongly recommend downloading VLC https://www.videolan.org/vlc/index.html and WATCHING your videos on that.  It comes with pretty much every codec you might need which allows you to watch all the major video FILE types and most obscure ones.Seems to be working better.
Thanks.

I watch a bunch of streaming tv and netflix. Sometimes for no apparent reason, EVERYTHING is in slow motion, the picture, the audio, everything. I can shut down the computer for several minutes and then start, again, it will work fine the rest of the evening. Is there any WAY to fix this? I use internet EXPLORER, windows 10. My computer is hardwired to tv, I use hdml cable. thanks.Do you mean the video plays at 50% speed or the video is buffering slowly?No, it isn't buffering, just slow motion. I went to Microsoft site and asked the question, it said to use software rendering instead of the what it was set for. I tried it, the picture was far worse, went back and reset to original setting, worked ok after that.
 If it starts that slow motion business, I shut off the computer and go read for a while. Then turn computer back on and the streaming works fine, the rest of the evening.Twp things to try. Maybe three. These may help find the thing that does this.
Try another computer or mobile device on the same local network.
Boot your r computer with a "Live" Linux CD and watch the same stream.

Also, did yum try logging in with another user account?

My most WILD guess is you have a really odd hardware malfunction. If so, it would show up on downloaded videos as well. 
I agree with Geek, it seems like a hardware issue.  How much memory (RAM) do you have on your computer? Perhaps your system is paging the video on your DRIVE? 

Also since you are on windows 10, download the official netfilx app from the microsoft app store and see if anything changes.

Hey guys,

I BOUGHT this pc and used it for 2 years with no problems. Just recently in the past month, I've been having frequent blue screens. The first blue screen I encountered was WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR. Soon after, I did the a reformat that is implemented into WINDOWS 10 which removed all FILES from my SSD(holds windows installation). After I reformatted, I've been getting a new BSOD: CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED. This BSOD has been occurring real often especially while I'm playing Fortnite Save the World.  I am not sure if it is because of my SSD or my graphics card or neither. I've run Crystal Disk Info and it said my SSD is still at 93%  health. I tried stress testing my GFX card and it ran fine. I am currently at a loss, any help would be greatly appreciated.


Computer Specs (Speccy):

Operating System
   Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
CPU
   Intel Core i7 4790K 4.00GHz   38 °C
   Haswell 22nm Technology
RAM
   16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 665MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
   ASRock Z97 Extreme3 (CPUSocket)   33 °C
Graphics
   SyncMaster ([email protected])
   Intel Microsoft Basic Display Adapter (ASRock)
        Nvidia Geforce 770 **Taken Out for the moment due to a POSSIBLE cause of BSOD**
Storage
   119GB Corsair Force GS (SATA (SSD))   30 °C
   1863GB TOSHIBA DT01ACA200 (SATA )   31 °C
Optical Drives
   HL-DT-ST BDDVDRW UH12NS30
Audio
   Realtek High Definition Audio

edit: I also get random CMD Prompts pop up and disappear extremely fast.I have no idea what this means:
Quote

t said my SSD is still at 93%  health.

Windows Update 1603 keeps failing on Toshiba Windows 10 Laptop.
Was originally a Windows 7 machine but was force upgraded.Assuming you have plenty of FREE space for the update to take?

Curious how it was force upgraded? ( Did you have product key ISSUES or something else )

 Did you not go through the normal Windows 10 installation?

A clean install of Windows 10 might be the FIX and you shouldn't have to force its install.If he has another PC nearby, he can do these steps:
1. Make a "Live" Linux CD that has has a partition manage.
2. Boot up the CD and USE GPARD **to resize the partition.
3. Prepare a USB or DVD with current version of the 1803 build.
4. Install new copy of Windows 10 in the free space.

This does not violate EULA. The old install has the information that validates the re-install of Windows on the same machine.

** An alternative is to make a bookable CD with Easeus partition manager.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2XHW5HYkzM
what error message/code do you get when the update fails? Quote from: DaveLembke on July 31, 2018, 11:44:35 AM

Assuming you have plenty of free space for the update to take?

Curious how it was force upgraded? ( Did you have product key issues or something else )

 Did you not go through the normal Windows 10 installation?

A clean install of Windows 10 might be the fix and you shouldn't have to force its install.

If he has another PC nearby, he can do these steps:
1. Make a "Live" Linux CD that has has a partition manage.
2. Boot up the CD and use GPARD **to resize the partition.
3. Prepare a USB or DVD with current version of the 1803 build.
4. Install new copy of Windows 10 in the free space.

This does not violate EULA. The old install has the information that validates the re-install of Windows on the same machine.

** An alternative is to make a bookable CD with Easeus partition manager.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2XHW5HYkzM

what error message/code do you get when the update fails?

Hoping someone can help me here.

Built a NEW pc.
i78700k cpu.
WD BLACK M.2 nvme ssd drive as C: drive

I do not know if it's windows 10 or the M.2 drive, but i can't seem to install the FOLLOWING software.

guru3d - get this error :
*An error occured, The system cannot find the file specified*

RealBench - get this error :
Kdsoap1.dll
Cannot load library.

Is there a problem with m.2 drive ?  or is there something up with Windows 10.
Kind of bummed, did not expect to have issues like this with brand new pc.

Thanks for any replies !!!
Before you tear up that  PC,TRY other software for doing benchmark testing.

Example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYhWaSl8S-0
Thanks for your 2 cents.
Will google those issues, see what i can find.
And yes, will try other software, thanks!

The last W10 update seems to have caused a real problem for me. It created a 'pseudo' or phantom user ID (account name). That is to say my original user ID is John and now I have a second user ID called John.heritagerd (it appended my street name to create the second ID) which seems to have become my default ID.
The system seems to have initially physically duplicated all my files so that every file that was in user John at the time of the W10 update  was copied to user john.heritagerd.  I would like to delete it but although the john.heritagerd ID shows in c:/users it can't be seen anywhere in any 'settings'.  I definitely I log on to W10 using ID john with the correct password the other ID seems to be the default user. The system will not allow me to delete C:\Users\John.HERITAGERD. Any idea on how I can remove this ID or at least stop it from being the default.
A Win update will not create a phantom account...especially with that much personal info...

The account must have EXISTED at 1 point in time.can you start an elevated command prompt and type in this;  powershell "get-wmiobject win32_useraccount | ft Name,Status,Disabled,{name='Password';e={($_.PasswordRequired)}}"

that will list all the user account on the PC.attach the screenshot.
I hope I've attached a screen shot of the powershell run, once under john & once under john.heritagerd.
Hope this helps - I am most grateful for any help you can provide.
JAfrom that, you do only have the one User Account called John.

but from your description, and proven by your CD commands, your have a John and a john.heritagerd user folders.
the way heritagerd is capitalised reminds me of when Win7 (or was it XP) did repairs and auto-created new user profiles.
also, it isn't unheard of that when your user profile gets corrupted, WINDOWS will make a new one, usually a temporary one, and it'll show a message during log in TELLING you.although I personally haven't seen a corrupted profile under Windows 10 yet.

I would create a brand new user login account, log out of the current one and into the new one.browse into the old two (c:\users\john and c:\users\john.hertigaterd) and transfer folder contents (pics, docs, music, emails, favourites etc) to the new user folder.
once you're happy everything has come across, remove those two profiles.
That'll TAKE some doing but I'll give it a try.  Get back to you in a few days.  Thanks Mark.

Has anyone recently purchased a HP Laptop Computer Model - Micro-Edge-WLED-Backlit..etc.  It has a 15.6 inch screen, 256GB SSD, 8GB RAM, and a CPU speed of 2.4GHz.  I am very INTERESTED in buying one myself but I need to know with the Windows 10 OS on it if it's possible to go into the BIOS and change over from the UEFI boot mode to the LEGACY mode.  It is quite possible with modern Lenovo LAPTOPS I recently discovered.  It appears almost impossible to get through to HP to ask questions like this!

My COMPUTER is taking forever to boot, I'm TALKING like 5 minutes to boot and is super slow but eventually after waiting like 20 minutes it starts to go back to normal. This happens every time I get on it. I did a CDI report on my SSD which Windows 10 boots off of and it says it still good. Any suggestions?The fast answer is to shut down your computer as seldom as possible, but I know that's an UNPOPULAR OPTION and doesn't solve your underlying issue.

Press ctrl + shift + esc together to access the task manager and select the startup tab.  If there are many programs that have a 'high' impact on startup, that may be why it takes your computer forever to get to a usable STATE.  A common culprit for slow booting is anti-virus software like Norton.  You can turn off the auto-scan option on your anti-malware and anti-virus software on boot up, and instead run it when the computer is usable by you.

Hope this helps.Try Reset PC.  It worked for me.

Now I know that most of you may be angry at me for even mentioning this but please bare with me.I am building a pc on a budget and I really need the extra 100 dollars plus the store (and other stores)when I mentioned installing windows 10 they just told me that they would install a pirated version so please if you can answer me.I believe the only way of having a genuine windows 10 is through the media CREATION tool from the microsoft website which microsoft does not recognize as non genuine but if the guy (who would build my pc)would download the os with a different method (because I didnt ask him how he would download it exactly)then what could I do to ensure that microsoft would never be able to know that I dont have a genuine pc?I know microsoft collects data anonymously when for example I download something so are there some security settings which I can disable so that microsoft cant COLLECT data thus they cant FIND out that I dont have a genuine os?or are there other THING I could do.Topic Closed...

Hello everyone,
my desktop PC cannot boot WINDOWS10, when I turned off automatic repair I got message saying 'arcsas.sys' missing (or corrupted, not sure, it's been a time).
So I came here seeking for help, what could possibly help me? Should I try reinstalling windows? Will it work with USB installation illegally downloaded from internet? (since it's been years I last saw installation CD)
Thanks in advance!To address an arcsas.sys error you could try changing the SATA settings in bios to PATA/IDE compatability mode. (Do you have a RAID setup?)

Do you have a valid Windows 10 product key? You can legally download a Windows ISO from Microsoft and install it, but it won't be activated until you supply a valid product key.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10

Using a "pirate" Windows ISO is a great way to have malware on your system before you even start using it. Only use a genuine ISO from Microsoft. Don't use one from any other site, and DEFINITELY don't use one you got from filesharing / Torrent sources.


My windows is legally on my PC (bought) but I no longer have such number, or at LEAST I don't know where i could find it (if it's easily available within writing some command in command prompt I'm sorry but I'm not that skillful)
I've chosen 'Troubleshoot' and went one by one:

• System Restore - no restore point
• Go back to previous version - We ran into a problem and won't be able blah blah...
• System IMAGE Recovery - no SIR on this computer (I even have USB stick with usb installation on it to start recovert-doesn't work)
• Startup Repair - image inserted LogFile: SrtTrail.txt error: https://imgur.com/e8j7Lzm
• Command prompt - THE ONLY THING WORKING

Command prompt - THE ONLY THING WORKING

• I've typed in command 'wmic path softwarelicensingservice get OA3xOriginalProductKey'

• To you previous post, I've checked SATA options in  BIOS but so far i found only this (top of the screen: IDE) https://imgur.com/gallery/x3ysEgD

Just to note: you can always download windows 10 straight from the official microsoft site here if you ever need or want a new copy:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

If you upgraded to Windows 10 during the free period, you don't have a product key,

Edit to original post: MirEso, your right. If you upgraded to Windows 10 (for free)during the free period, you don't have a product key, though you do have a digital license that you can access by signing into your Microsoft Account on a new computer.
EDIT:
When you did the free upgrade, you did not get a new 5x5 key for Windows 10, but your PC was assigned a digital license. If you need to reinstall Windows 10, simply start the install and you have an option to skip entering a key if you are reinstalling. Your PC will automatically activate after setup completes and you connect to the Internet; assuming your motherboard has not been swapped.

I want to SET up my pc to boot from my existing SSD in a newer COMPUTER and move most of my programs and data to a new 1TB standard HDD.  I need to know how to set it up.
Thanks in advancewhat am I missing here....

isn't it as simple as putting that SSD into the other computer, setting it as the primary boot device, and installing Windows onto it?
or do you want to keep the OS as is which will depend on what sort of installed OS you have, OEM or retail purchased.
then you want to decide if you just re-image the OS or install from scratch.
maybe more details will help. 
Thanks for the reply...Yes, if possible I have a digital license for win 10 on the ssd.  I just don't know if I have to install windows on the slave drive for my programs to work on the replacement pc...If you already have a license on your existing SSD, and all you want to do is transfer programs to the new platter drive, it may be best just to backup your files for your programs, reinstall the the programs onto the platter drive (usually D:/) and then ASSOCIATE the backed-up data to the relevant programs.charlie,
program (software) cannot be copied and pasted.
so anything you want on the platter drive would need to be reinstalled from the original source; CD, web download etc.also, if your Windows OS was purchased from a retail outlet, once the new PC boots up with that SSD from your old PC, there's a good chance Windows will then go "new hardware found PLEASE wait" and depending on that may want the OS reinstalled anyway.
There is no shortcut to doin this...as stated above all your apps would need to be re-installed after the clean Win SSD install is complete...maybe 10  % of them would run without registry POINTERS bein created...but i doubt even that #...Thanks for the replies...
Just for my info, I need to make sure when I reload my programs to the platter drive that the data files path is correct...How can I make sure?
Question 2 is a dumb question but;
when I copy my data, docs and pics from my failing platter drive to put on a 1tb new platter drive, do I need windows on that drive for the programs to work?Question # 1...If installed correctly the apps path will be correct...

Question # 2. No...the storage HDD does not need Win installed to access all your data...Thanks for all the replies Good Luck...keep us posted...

P.S.  ...don't introduce the 2nd HDD til the SSD is fully up and runnin with Win.

I can't believe I've NEVER worried about this before...

I have an external, portable USB drive. What's the best way to keep personal data safe?

I do use VeraCrypt for some things, and am OK with it - but I see where I would get irritated with mounting times. (Phrasing!)

What are folks' opinions on using BitLocker on an external drive?

Or a third (or fourth) option?

Thanks,Anything super critical I burn to DVD-R's, otherwise I replicate data among multiple drives and so if data gets corrupt on one, I still have copy of it on other drives vs losing it all. Also use 15GB Google Drive space.I'm more worried about protecting my data from falling into the wrong hands then having a copy.... (I have plenty of backups).Who's watching you ? ?You know... people.You never know who might be watching.

On a related note... Does anyone have any recommendations on how to secure data on a portable drive? You know, in case it's lost/stolen, etc.?

Use BitLocker....or there are 3rd party tools as well

NOTE: If you ever lose your password yer screwed...Thanks. I've been LEARY about applying BL to my internal HD as well... Don't know why, though.

Anything I need to watch out for while setting it up (besides the password issue)?

I Quote

On a related note... Does anyone have any recommendations on how to secure data on a portable drive? You know, in case it's lost/stolen, etc.?

I have been using an OLDER version of Winamp for about 8 years (5.666 the last official release, thought it was older but I was mistaken) primarily because I use a bunch of plugins for game music like PSF, SPC, and VGM that have plugins that do not work on any more recent media player of any sort. Up until now, I had no problems, but now that I have a new computer and Windows 10 pro, MIDI files have stopped playing. No matter how I open them, Winamp will not plauy them. MICROSOFT says "use Windows Media Player", but that will not PLAY my other files and I do not use garbage players like WMP anyway as it has almost no functionality and tons of adware. What is the issue here? What did Windows 10 Pro do to stop MIDI play functionality? This is really upsetting since NO media player released in last 15 years comes close to Winamp's ease of use, and no other player actually plays all, the video game music rip files as above. Not only that, but the new version of Winamp is literally vaporware now. What is going on? Were MIDIs phased out or something? How do I get the ability to play them BACK? This same player does work on Windows 8 and Windows 10 HOME, and my Windows 10 Pro is a fresh clean install with zero bugs. ONLY MIDI files don't work. What gives? What did  they do to disable MIDI playback outside Windows Media Player and how do I fix their crap?MIDI files play fine for me in Winamp on Windows 10.

Check that you have the MIDI Input plugin in Winamp.

So I decided to upgrade my one spare system to Windows 10 64-bit using the free Windows 7 64-bit  to 10 64 bit upgrade path. Everything seemed ok, and so I launched World of Warcraft and started playing that. I then loaded up Fraps and decided to see if there was any problems with that and found out that while Fraps does launch when I tell it to. The hot keys to start recording the video game dont function. I cant record video or screenshots using fraps. Tried using different hot keys and nope. That didnt fix it either. Went to Fraps website and the version I am running is the latest version but I noticed that they dont advertise it as being compatible after Windows 7. 

Even tried just taking screenshots of desktop which fraps otherwise would never have a problem with with under General Tab box checked for "Monitor Aero Desktop (DWM)" in Fraps software.

Is Aero Desktop Environment Gone from Windows 10 and maybe thats why Fraps is broken? Or is there something else I need to enable or disable to get this to WORK.

http://www.fraps.com/download.php

I guess until I work out this issue, I am going to be recording game events for our guild on my main system that is still on Windows 7 64-bit.

It would stink if Fraps is not going to support any OS's after 7  See Here...

Apparently you aren't the only 1 ...and Beepa is working on a patch...

Meanwhile some have had success installing the latest KLite codec pack and getting it to run.I just installed FRAPS (the trial presumably) on both my Windows 10 systems, and it works fine on both. Don't have any games on them but the counter appeared in FurMark and I was able to record a video from FurMark as WELL on both systems ([email protected], 8GB, 9800GT and a Athlon 5350 with 4GB of RAM using the APU for Video). It also works on my Windows 8.1 system.

Only suggestion I can think of if FRAPS was installed before the upgrade, you could try reinstalling it.Thanks for the info.

I Tried a reinstall of Fraps 3.5.99 and still non functional. I guess I will stick with Windows 7 on my main system for a while until Beepa can solve the issue with Windows 10 in a newer release.The "Windows 10" issue being addressed is that the default Video player can't play FRAPS videos. I'm pretty sure that isn't the issue you are having.Yah my issue is I dont get the FPS counter and no hot keys for video or screenshot work. The program LAUNCHES but is non functional basically. Worked completely fine under Win 7 build. Even checked the path for the files when trying to make video or  screenshots and  no files are created. 

Pic shown with my registration name and password blanked out so no one can assume to be me with licensed copy activation.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Got a response from them on my support ticket. This is what they shared.

QUOTE

Dear Dave,

    Thanks for your inquiry.  The current 3.5.99 version of Fraps will work fine with most games on machines running Windows 10, you just won't be able to capture your desktop because Windows 10 does not use Aero.

    Our developers are currently working on the next version of Fraps (3.6.0) which will include official support for desktop capture in Windows 10 as well as other minor bug fixes and improvements.  Unfortunately I am unable to provide you with a release date, however we do hope to have it available for download from our website as soon as possible.

    If you are having trouble using Fraps with a particular game, could you please let me know the title and I will investigate the problem further.


Regards,
Chris Van Graas

Got a response from them on my support ticket. This is what they shared.

Can anyone help me fix that problem? I have been trying for a long time but nothing WORKS at all I want to reset my PC and delete all files.I assume Windows 10...?
if the ASO (Advanced Startup Option) menu isn't working, time to get the OS as an ISO using the Media Creation Tool.burn that to a BOOTABLE DVD or USB stick and reload from that.
if you want to completely remove your all data and completely reset your PC you NEED to FORMAT system

On my Windows 10 system, I really like the images that Microsoft provides on my lock screen. And I wanted get a copy of one of the pictures there to make it a background for one of my other computers. Well interestingly Microsoft has these sort of HIDDEN without FILE name extensions so when using a TOOL like agent ransack looking for all image file types on the system you will find everything BUT those images.

Went looking on google and found a solution as linked here: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/find-windows-10-lock-screen-pictures

Instead of just grabbing a copy of largest file sizes, I took a copy of all and placed it into a folder at C:\win_lock_images
I the launched command shell via CMD at Cortana
With command shell open I performed CD\. then CD win_lock_images
Now at C:\win_lock_images I performed a wildcard rename to all files at that location by running rename *.* *.jpg
Now all files there have the .jpg extension and they have association as JPG images and now can be viewed for what they are.
Select whatever images you like and save them in another folder and delete the ones you dont want at say C:\win_lock_images if you used the same folder NAMING as I did.

*Microsoft changes these images from time to time and some images I saw a while back are gone. Not sure why they hide them like this under no file name extension and buried in app data of a user profile. They have the feedback system on these images where they will ask on the lock screen if you like these images and would like to see more like what you see etc and answering to that you can get a whole new group of images. 

Image attached shows the long alpha_numeric image file names that Microsoft uses, and with thumbnail view I was able to see a sample of all and sort by file size largest to smallest in size. The image I want is the one in top left which is greater than 1MB in size.  Yea many of the lock screen images that Microsoft provides look beautiful (Windows 10 Spotlight I guess is what that FEATURE is called)

Lot of them are good to use as standard desktop wallpaper too.Made a copy of them elsewhere in case Microsoft wipes them out and replaces them with new ones. Wonders now if there is some location at Microsoft where you can look at whats available to pick and chose. So far they have been a surprise as to what I will get next. Thanks for clarification on that its Windows 10 Spotlight for feature name.

Hi!

I know how looks my Q, but I'm writing it 'cause I have not so high skills with NTVDM and really want to be sure that this option is possible or not.

NTVDMx64 on my Windows 10.1803.17134.112 Pro X64 uses MS-DOS version 5.00.500 (got it by typing VER in NTVDM console),

It can be pretty good to upgrade MS-DOS, I know that if is it possible it NEEDS very big configuration changes and even it can harm NTVDM totally.

So, is it possible?

THANK you for answer.
MiroThis is you;re 2nd TOPIC on this issue...did you try all the suggestions in the 1ST topic ? ?

I Was reading about the ability to run your personal copy of Windows 10 on any compatible  PC you happen to be working on at different job sites - all, conveniently, from a portable USB backup drive.

Is this true?

1) If yes, how would I accomplish this (install files currently on flash drive)?
2) Am I correct in saying that I couldn't clone from my PC to the backup drive if I am running the PC with 2 hard drives (one with the OS and the other with apps)?

Thank you.Windows is only licensed to be with 1 computer, non transferable.
USB will not allow this. Microsoft has detection that PREVENTS installation to external drives.

Linux Live Distros will allow what your trying to do. But not Windows!
Enterprise and Education Editions have "Windows To Go" which allows this.


I found This as well. However, I'm not 100% on EULA violations here since in many ways it's pretty much the same as "Windows To Go".Interesting that they now allow this after years of blocking people from doing this sort of thing. Bart PE was the only thing I knew of to have a "Live Windows" environment with "bent EULA usage".

Looks like not all software is compliant with this though:
Quote

The applications that you want to use from the Windows To Go workspace should be tested to make sure they also support roaming. Some applications bind to the computer hardware which will cause difficulties if the workspace is being used with multiple host computers.

Warning
Using a USB drive that has not been certified is not supported

Windows is only licensed to be ...non transferable.
USB will not allow this. ...
Linux Live Distros will allow what your trying to do. But not Windows!

It’s making a kind of ooooooo noise. It’s a used Latitude E6330 running Windows 10 (Dell), just bought it used at an auction. It started last night, I got a BSOD last night, sound worked, today, tried to watch a movie on YouTube, volume on 70 percent, no sound. Then it crashes and went into a boot loop, tried to enter BIOS but couldn’t, it gets slightly warm on the left side but not very, increases very slowly, not fast. Plugged into charger today when used, EVENTUALLY got into startup repair menu, mostly unresponsive, very slow reaction to touchpad buttons, touchpad buttons worked fine earlier. Now it won’t respomd to touchpad buttons in startup repair menu and is in a freeze. Please help!What did you pay for it? Did the vendor make any remarks about condition?
If you bought it from Amazon you WOULD have got a warranty.
On eBay you can get one for parts real cheap...   

Here is what you can try. Remove battery. WAIT a bit. Plug in power brick and try to boot into BIOS. Within BIOS there should be a diagnostic area.

Most likely the battery is gone and shroud not be used.

Failing HDD...replace it.I got the BSOD error MEMORY_MANAGEMENT, I suspect I might need new memory. Besides, I couldn't even get into the BIOS.Download and run memtest (https://www.memtest86.com/). Let it run multiple passes (several hours). Quote from: patio on June 17, 2018, 06:13:06 PM

Failing HDD...replace it.

Did you drink it? I did and my PC got very sick.

Mind you, I am bad about makings notes. But this is how I remember it.

I tried several times to put the April Windows 10 version on two PCs I own. It was a disaster and I got to thinking it must be my own fault. Surely Microsoft would not release something so buggy and unable to fix itself.

After a lot of effort, I did GET 1803 to work. Only to get a note that it was already out of date and had to be upgraded. Strange, how can a new version need an update?

The bad thing is that I did not write down the exact BUILD number. In a state of panic I got an old version called the 1709 and it worked just fine.  That night be what I had earlier. I am not sure, in my push to eliminate things I wiped a spare HDD and did a fresh install.

So now I am in June 2018 and installed used a version of Windows 10 from last year,  the 1709. It seemed to be stable. It got some updates and was working fine.

Guess what? Everything was fin on Sunday night. It said I am up to date.

On Monday I  turned on the PC  and after some surfing and shut is down. The I turned it back on and did some research and left the PC on while I took a nap. I had to leave the house for a netting, but could not turn off the PC because there was another update coming. A big one.

Well, when I came back home and checked my PC,it now has 1803. But a new build of 1803. Yes, while I was not looking Microsoft overwrote my 1709 with a new version of 1803. I was somewhat confused.

Now you tell me your story. Did you try 1803? Was it good? 
If you don't want the latest Insider builds, you should leave Insider Preview. You frequently complain that your system keeps getting upgraded but the only reason you would get "upgraded" beyond 1803 is because you are part of an insider channel.

Leaving the Insider Channel requires turning it off, then reinstalling a Consumer release of Windows. You've managed the latter something like 6 times but somehow you've seemingly overlooked the former each time, resulting in your system eventually being "caught up" with insider leaving you to your complaints.

I have 1803 on two computers and another two systems running the Insider Preview and all of them have worked more or less fine across all four of them.A couple of weekends ago I got the ISO image for 1803 and installed it on 4 of the desktops in the house, 4 laptops and 4 test rigs I have.
only mine gave me grief due to the unsupported Intel 600P NVMe SSD it has, so instead of waiting on either Intel or MS to figure that one out, I SWAPPED it to a Samsung EVO SSD and all went well.
so 12 PC's over two days without any installation hurdles, just one hardware incompatibility - pretty happy with that.
You don't have to submit to any Windows upgrade or update if you don't want to, I thought. Insider or not. You can adjust your settings, isn't that right?

1803 on 2 systems and no issues found yet and running a mixture of new and old hardware in the 2 builds.

- AMD Athlon 64 4450B 2.3Ghz Dual Core overclocked to 2.53Ghz and 4GB DDR2 800Mhz RAM with a Toshiba 120GB SATA II SSD with Biostar AM2+ motherboard and Geforce 9800 GT 512MB video card.

- AMD A8-5545m 1.7Ghz Quad Core with 2.7Ghz turbo 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz with Maxtor 500GB HDD and Biostar ITX motherboard with integrated GPU in the A8's APU. Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 27, 2018, 09:50:48 AM

You don't have to submit to any Windows upgrade or update if you don't want to, I thought. Insider or not. You can adjust your settings, isn't that right?

I would never have thought the Home version was less controllable.

only mine gave me grief due to the unsupported Intel 600P NVMe SSD it has, so instead of waiting on either Intel or MS to figure that one out, I swapped it to a Samsung EVO SSD and all went well.
so 12 PC's over two days without any installation hurdles, just one hardware incompatibility - pretty happy with that.
Modify message

This is the last thing Geek has to worry about...newer equipment...just sayin.

Hello,

I would like to format Windows 10, but I also have a partition installed with Kali Linux. However I do not care if Kali Linux is also uninstalled, but I do prefer to format only the Windows partition. I just want to know the right way to do it.

Best Regards,
Nicolas V.I would prepare a Gparted bootable CD and format the partition using that.

https://www.lifewire.com/use-gparted-to-partition-hard-drive-2205693

https://gparted.org/download.php
I'm assuming this Win10 partition is currently in use and after the format, you'll be reloading Win10?
if that's the case, why not just do the reload and during that process, Windows offers the option to play around with partitions.  (CREATE, delete...)
Just wondering if you could just pop in the windows 10 cd or USB, boot to it, and delete all the partitions and STUFF the win10 setup sees so that it's just one big unallocated space and install windows 10 onto it.

Assuming you would like to start from nothing.

On my phone answering sevice I got a message .It said it was from mocrosoft and that I had to renew my lease to keep windows.
I never heard anything like that before.
they give me phone numbers and stuff.
I thought maybe it  could be fake
QUOTE from: jacobixxx8 on June 23, 2018, 09:35:13 AM

I thought maybe it  could be fake

Hi!

I'm working on Windows 10.1803 x64 Pro with installed NTVDMx64.
All works ok.

I was searching for using it in fullscreen.
First I resized cmd.exe and NTVDM to 80x56 characters with raster font size 10x18 - it resized correctly to 80x28 - that's ok, works.
I TRIED to find solution for fullscreen mode.
In command line is possible make cmd.exe fullscreen after entering command WMIC click on maximize button.
But WMIC takes cmd.exe into any (for me) unknown mode and needs to enter EXIT.
Command line works, but not NTVDM - after exit it resizes to default written above.

Really also graphics are in default mode written above are bigger.
Q is:
Is possible to scale up NTVDM to fullscreen?
No matter if it needs any tool or so.
But of course SCALING by nearest neighbor (or pixel).

Or is possible to enter any other raster font in higher size than 10x18?
This can be enough, I need not real fullscreen - only bigger window for easier work.

I can easy browsing all programs, whole disks by setting path to Star Commander for cmd.exe in batch file and when appears cmd.exe, I can type only SC and Star Commander starts.
Star Commander is one of alternatives like Total or Volkov Commander...
Also mouse like support is available by using normal Windows pointer and clicking on controls of DOS programs - EXAMPLE Visual Basic for DOS.

Thank you for your help.
MiroIs it only the CMD screen you wish to make larger?
Cmd screen is possible even to maximize.
I mean NTVDM - I tried Consolas font, this resized NTVDM even more, but after close and next open it used standard size and standard raster font - even its size.
Is possible to save settings of that?
In case of raster font it saved properties, Consolas returns at new open defaults.

Miro
Sorry. 
No I see what you mean.  The NTVM does not do full screen, unless you do some things that are not very convenient. Are you wanting to use this as an application for a user who  would be confused by a screen not full size?
Many many answers govern elsewhere are fro Windows 7 and 8. Here is a recnt psot that IMPLIES it is near impossible in Windows 10.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance-winpc/why-does-windows-10-32-bit-say-ntvdm-doesnt/6b80bf1c-36bd-4b2d-9ff9-274579539395
Did you already see it?
Quote

The message just said that the system does not support full screen mode. Click Cancel to teminate and clicking it closes Qbasic without even asking to save. Ignore button did nothing until second click on it and closed it anyhow. Reliability told me about NTVDM stopping

Hi, I’m TRYING to INSTALL Windows 10 from an official DVD. I have also tried a USB stick and my own DVD burned from Microsoft’s ISO FILE. I am using a new Samsung Evo SSD to install onto. The bios is set to boot from the DVD.
Each time, I get a blue recovery screen. It’s as far as I can get.
This is my own BUILD, I’ve PREVIOUSLY installed Windows 10 in this PC with a different SSD but Windows became corrupted.
Any ideas please? Thanks in advance…Did you use the samsung utilities to prep the drive yet ? ?

Image result for when did MS make the WIN key?
1994
The Windows logo key (also known as Windows-, win-, start-, logo-, flag-, or super-key) is a keyboard key which was originally introduced on the Microsoft Natural keyboard in 1994. This key became a standard key on PC keyboards. In Windows tapping the key brings up the start menu.

Windows key - Wikipedia

So, the PROBLEM I am running into is that when my COMPUTER is running for an extended period of time (can't gauge the timeframe well. Maybe an average of 7 hours of uptime), I eventually run into insane slowdown. Of COURSE, I'm trying to end any high tasks in Task Manager that could be sucking up this much RAM, but that doesn't seem to be the culprit. I wish I could give you the reproduction steps to what gets it in that state, but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on why this was happening, what I need to be on the lookout for, and some ways to fix it. I can't tell if I have a memory leak, a malicious program, or something else.

A) When the slowdown occurs, I look at my Task Manager, and sort the Processes by the Memory % descending. I see it is calculating around 99% total usage. The first lookover is that a lot of processes are not using a lot of memory, so I don't know 99% of it is being used all of a sudden.
B) I basically need to power cycle my machine to return it to normal, until it happens again.
C) When I open the Resource Monitor and watch the Memory Tab. Even when I idle, I see the Physical Memory in use going up
D) Tried to look at some guides to see if they could address my issue:
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osKnDbHibig
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOaqpreXsBU
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oVyoxGJLFQ
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAxuGjdahd0
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRf-6E4LL2Y

Here are my computer specs:
- Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
- Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-9700K CPU 3.60GHz Processor
- 32 GB RAM (between two 16GB CORSAIR DDR4 RAM sticks)
- MSI PRO Z390-A PRO LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 SATA 6Gb/s ATX Intel Motherboard
- MSI RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G GeForce Graphics Card
- SAMSUNG SSD 970 EVO 1TB

Here are some things I did while I was attempting to troubleshoot:
1. Originally had 16 GB of RAM. Bought a new stick and replaced it to see if I had faulty RAM. It happened again, so I inserted both. That is why I now have 32 GB of RAM
2. Ran a virus/malware scan with Avast antivirus, Malwarebytes, and SuperAntiSpyware. No viruses or malware was found.
3. Ran a disk cleanup and fixed broken registries with CCleaner Pro
4. Disabled some startup programs
5. Modified the COMPUTER\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\Ndu\Start registry value from 2 to 4
6. Modified the COMPUTER\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management\ClearPageFileAtShutdown registry value from 0 to 1
7. Stopped & Disabled the SysMain service
8. Running the following commands in Windows Command Prompt
- Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth
- Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth
- Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
- SFC /SCANNOW
9. Enabled Google Chrome hardware acceleration (it was off)
10. In Google Chrome, turned off "Preload pages for faster browsing and searching"
11. Updated all drivers I could with CCleaner Pro
- This caused some issues, so I had to do a System Restore
12. Updated the graphic card's drivers in NVIDIA GeForce Experience
13. Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic to see if there were any issues (there weren't any)
14. Disabling "Automatically manage paging file size for all drives" via Virtual Memory

I'm also going to link some screenshots I managed to grab of the usage before I noticed the slowdown and eventual crash happening:
https://imgur.com/Tl65QxW
https://imgur.com/0O8aRUA
https://imgur.com/G6i0lUi

I have a Compaq Presario SR2002X computer.  Would WINDOWS 10 work on this computer?It says that my problem was solved but there is no visible ANSWER on the page.Here ya go...No sorry it won't. And you would need to BUY a copy of Windows 10. It would be cheaper to buy a used Windows 7 computer and upgrade for free or a computer running Windows 10.

Hi.  I have two questions. My first question is there any way I can my previous post? I had a similar problem and the answer may be there. Second question as you can see from the SCREENSHOT that the files are in the folder but I can't them. It is only showing ONE file. They are not hidden. I tried that already. Can you please tell me how to gain ACCESS to the them?Clik your Pic or User Name...select Show Posts...You copied the files from a backup onto a DIFFERENT system, so they are not "owned" by your user account. You will have to Take Ownership of the files you restored from a backup (as per your other thread).Thanks Patio. I was able to find my previous post and realized that it is not that the same situation.

Thanks BC_Programmer. My situation is a little different this time. Actually this time the folders are on an external drive. These are pics that I shot and downloaded them straight the drive. I had access to them before but I had to reconnect them to my Lightroom catalog and NOTICED that they are not showing up. I did however try what you suggested. I googled how to take ownership but I don't have a security tab as an option on my properties folder.

I THINK I have asked this before and if my memory serves me correctly most members think all updates are necessary.

This may seem like an odd analogy but this past week-end I watched a movie on Netflix called " OUTSIDE THE LINES " tHE MOVIE IS A YEAR OR MORE OLD BUT IT was curiously close to what happened last night with Russia attacking a sovereign province and SPINNING stories ( LIES ) about the land grab. The part of the story that makes me wonder about updates had to do with two characters. One was a drone pilot the other a type of cyborg. The cyborg TOLD the human a lie to get him to remove a failsafe chip that allowed him to GO rogue.

Knowing how the world hides truth from the little guys I want to know why MS disables my password memorizer, tells me that my user names are out of date and forces me to supply them with information that a normal PERSON my find suspect but I can't see so my newest PC is always down because MS WANTS more from me that I want to give.

Ask awaysigh

I installed a new hard drive, used my recovery disk and re-installed Windows 8. I proceeded to upgrade to 8.1 and then to 10. On boot up, I can't seem to get it to let me GO straight to the desktop without saying "the username or password is incorrect". I then have to sign in with my Microsoft password to get to the desktop. I thought I had it licked but it came back. Advice on how to correct this WOULD be much welcomed.Never mind, I finally figured it out.Sometimes just talking about something helps a lot.  And sometimes it's googling something 10 TIMES because of not GETTING a response from anyone.Your REFUND check is in the mail.Darn it! This means another pay cut, doesn't it?You guys crack me up.

I am EXPERIENCING a similar problem to this but in my case, my computer suddenly shuts itself down and then reboots itself. This happens once or twice every day. I don't lose any unfinished work but it is very frustrating to have this keep happening. Any suggestions that might correct it would be very much appreciated.
Please do not post questions in an existing thread - your post may go unanswered that WAY. I MOVED your post to a separate thread. Please do the following:

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded FILE and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in NOTEPAD, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Hi!

I configured File Explorer for using FTP too.
I entered invalid username or password and always when I click on FTP link in navigation PANE of Quick ACCESS it remains opening that FTP link.

So, Q is: How to remove username and/or password or MANAGE them?
Or - is enough to remove link and ceate new one? This I want not to fo 'cause order/sorting in Quick Access is by time/date added ITEM - or is possible to modify order/sorting in Quick Access?

Thank you all for help.
Miro

My Dell 755 is a multi-boot using the Windows 10 boot loader.  I have the 500 GB hard drive as a MBR type and it has about 6 partitions. Just now I made a Linux partition and install Ubuntu 18 on it.

So no GRUB, the linux boot manager, takes over and I have toit to load up Windows 10.

What I would like is to boot the Windows 10 boot manager first instead of the Linux loader. Because it is ugly and hard to read.

I have the free registered free version of EasyBCD to MAKE it easy to control the Windows 10 Boot Manager. But I have yet to learn how to get it to load the Linux system when I want.

Given enough time, I THINK I might solve it myself, but I am rather slow and have other things more important. Do any of you know how to do it?

Thank for any help.

Here is a link I am trying to understand.
Boot Linux with EasyBCD.
I think it is the wrong idima. Windows 10 boot manager won't boot Ubuntu (Linux).What was installed 1st ? ?...this is important.

Full INSTRUCTIONS...

It's for Vista but applies to all Win OS'es.Thank Patio.
It will take me some time to digest the article. It looks like it will work.

As I recall, years ago we could bot Linux from a floppy that would in turn either start the CD or boot into the hard drive. Back then that was how you did it.

Using EasyBCD yum make a loader that can start on Linux and put it somewhere. The BCD thing will point to the Linux loader and TRANSFER control to it. It is all there in the details.  You still need Grub...Easy BCD or not.Got it to work. But not hey way I wanted.
After hours and days, I deleted both Windows 10 and Linux.
In the end, I had to revert to Windows 10 1709.
The April version refused to install.
I am not going to spend more time on this.   

Hello! So basically, I have a laptop with a ddr3 2GB ram and I found out that I can use a USB as RAM. I have a 16 GB USB 4.0 so it's BETTER. I went to the USB drive's properties and chose READYBOOST, but was surprised when it said: "ReadyBoost has been disabled by a Group Policy SETTING. An administrator can change Group Policy settings."
I am the administrator of this laptop and I don't know what policy I must edit. I checked all group policies (on gpedit.msc) and all of them were on "Not Configured". I HOPE someone can help me with this. Thanks!

hi,
I searched a lot on Google but found NO answer to this subject.

in Windows Media Player (WIN10), The playlist can not be expanded, so if the title of the song is long, it simply cuts it.
Is there a way to expand this area so I can see the name of the full song?

I would appreciate any HELP or guidance.
Thank you

*Please just do not tell me to expand by dragging the area, because I dragged to the end... LOL 

I just gave it a shot and-

I have no idea. It's a seemingly obvious feature to allow users to resize columns so it's absence doesn't make any sense.

Only way to resize the columns is to make the playlist area itself larger but it seems  that it only allows up to a certain size.

I LIKE how the "Help with playlists" option takes you to a generic Windows 10 Help page that doesn't give you any information about Windows Media Player let alone playlists. To be fair it's not as if they've been developing software for 30+ years, they are just a startup with 2 dev... oh, they have and they have HOW many employees? nevermind...Dear BC_Programmer,
LOL... That's pretty much what I thought 

First, thanks for trying to help. I really appreciate it ...
Second, I will try to ask in their official forum.
And lastly, if someone can find a solution, I'll be HAPPY to hear.

Thank you allupdate:
I got an answer from Microsoft's support,
And this is the answer of the product expert: "The product was designed like this and can not be changed."
What you can do is give FEEDBACK and hope they will improve it in the FUTURE.

Update KB5010342 ran YESTERDAY evening, and today there is no network connection on that LAPTOP (1).  The one I'm typing on (2) works.

Tried various things so far but cannot re-establish a network connection over wireless (it usually connects via wireless)

Adjacent working laptop 2 was updated to this 10/2/22 but is ethernet connected.

So, have connected an Ethernet cable, and after thinking about it for over a minute, its connected to that and Network/Internet is working.

Wireless networking IS working, checked on oldest third laptop (3, which has KB5010342 done)

Obviously reluctant to risk losing the connection I have on laptop 1 (which happens to be the newest), so:-

1. Has anybody else EXPERIENCED this loss of wireless networking with KB5010342?
2. Any ideas on a little or no-risk to do "cure" please?   Not so much with the KB5010342 update but other windows updates have required driver updates for devices which STOP working.
If you have a main stream BRAND laptop then use their tool to get the latest driver . You sure it's turned on ? ?

I have a Seagate 1TB external USB drive that I keep music, videos, and photos on. I occasionally plug it directly into a TV or Blu-Ray PLAYER's USB port to watch video (or listen to tunes).

Recently I plugged it into a hotel television - you know, one that has all the added "On Demand" and "Guest Services" interfaces plugged into it. I've done this before and suffered no consequences. (And, truth be told, there's no reason to presume that the teevee had anything to do with my issue - it's just how and when I discovered the problem).

The drive never mounted, so I unplugged it and plugged it into my Windows PC. Several directories - including all of my videos, and personal files, and a work backup - were missing. I ran whatever the automatic system check and repair is (I don't remember if that's Scan or Check), and those three directories reappeared, all intact. So, yay, I could watch The Spy Who Loved Me before my animal fries and double double got cold.

I noticed that one directory - where I download installer files - was missing. I ran Recuva to look for it, and didn't find it. Recuva turned up over 100,000 files - most overwritten - from every other directory but that one.

Today I actually noticed an additional directory ("Live Music") is missing. (It may have been missing since that first discovery, and I just didn't check it). It, too, does not show up in Recuva.

What's interesting is, both directories appear as zero-byte files in Windows Explorer. Their "Date Modified" date, though, does not match the last time I wrote or read from those files.

I noticed the directories all missing on May 1. I know I last wrote to the Live Music directory on April 26 (I emailed a file from that directory on that date).

It's just odd to me that they show up as zero-byte files - leads me to believe there may still be something there. Neither of these are absolutely crucial, but I do have some live music I'd love to be able to re-recover.
I tried double-clicking on the zero-byte "folder" and opening with a few different programs. No luck.

One thing that was interesting - to me. I noticed my "explorer.exe" file was modified on April 11 at 1634. One of the facacte folders - the "Downloads", not "Live Music" - was also modified on April 11, at 1107. I can't find anything different, odd, special, or unique about April 11 compared to other days - my Windows Update "View Update History" only goes back to May 15.

Quote from: rjbinney on May 16, 2018, 03:23:45 PM

I have a Seagate 1TB external USB drive t...
Recently I plugged it into a hotel television - .... there's no reason to presume that the teevee had anything to do with my issue - it's just how and when I discovered the problem

The drive never mounted, so I unplugged it and plugged it into my Windows PC. Several directories - including all of my videos, and personal files, and a work backup - were missing.

I thought once you'd initialised a HDD on the TV your PC wouldn't be able to see the data. That's what my LM960 manual says. That being the case it suggests you can only use if for recording and playing back. I'd also like to be able to move files to and from.

I have "recent folders" (or whatever the heck it is turned off), but I DID have a bunch of key folders pinned to my Quick Access in Windows Explorer. I just noticed they're all gone, replaced with the "stock" folders (e.g., "Desktop", "Downloads", "Pictures") AND something CALLED "Google Drive".

I don't BELIEVE I've ever saved anything to Google Drive - maybe unintentionally on my phone, but never on my PC.

So, three questions come to mind:
1. Did Google (or something Google-adjacent) just hijack my file system?
2. Is there a way to find / restore my old settings (I'll eventually be able to restore from muscle memory, but what a pain). and
3. Anybody have any guess as to how this happened?

I just noticed this morning, haven't used the PC much since Friday, and I don't know that I would have noticed since Wednesday - last time I created / saved a bunch of NEW documents.

You can revert to defaults view in explorer if that is the case. Sometimes some programs like ccleaner "removes" that settings also. Google drive itself I doubt that can CHANGE that settings.Thanks. Don't want "defaults" - that will start piling up "recently used" folders and, I don't remember quite why, I liked the way Win 7 did that better.

It's just so weird that everything would disappear, and Google Drive would suddenly appear (the only things uploaded are hiking maps that I saved on a work PC in Milwaukee in 2015), at apparently the same time.

I had Windows problems and had to REINSTALL. I have been having all kind of problems since I RESTORED my backup. I have fix this problem so I can get a SCREENSHOT to show of my REAL problem. Why am I get this message and how can I correct it. FYI, I am the ADMINISTRATOR.