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*censored*, I will tell you the FULL story.
My PC -Accidentally- after booting (W10Logo) show a problem message (actually two), I TAKE a shot of them and will put them here in this post.
To bypass this message I press Enter and the W10Logo appears for half second and message pop again, I press Enter contionsly to successfully boot and open the W.
Today; when I OPENED my PC; PC shut down. After the W10Logo appear, and i am was in this loop.
So I decided to Setup the W again, I used same W CD and format C and setup windows in it, that is the same thing that I do when setup a W.
Now windows Setup complete "COPYING Files" and "get files ready for installation" and other tasks below it, and the W restart to complete the Setup.
After restart and W10Logo the ERROR messages appear.
WHAT CAN I SOLVE THIS PROBLEM!!!!
*sorry for my bad englishI thought you were going to post the error messages...

Ah hello, I've been having a recurring problem with my computer. From what I can tell, each time my computer wants to update (it's windows 10) it fails to update and crashes with a BSOD that has the STOP ERROR "Critical Process Died" (I think, I'm not sure exactly what it said). And when I restart my computer says windows failed to update and is undoing the changes and then starts up as normal. So while my computer is fine now... I think it'll keep happening each time it tries to update and I fairly certain I want my computer to update.What is make/model of computer and did it initially comes with Windows 10 or did you upgrade it to 10 or perform a clean install of 10 yourself?It's a CUSTOM gaming built PC I had payed to be built for me. So I don't think it has a make and model. But I have been using it for well over a year now and the only problem I had with it was the fans in it died and I had to replace them because it was OVERHEATING.... that was a long while ago and this isn't acting the same way as it when it was over heating.

As for the Windows 10 thing, it's always had it.It can depend on what the update is trying to do. Your hardware may not mesh with whatever update Windows in trying to implement. I always otp to download the updates only but I want Windows to ALLOW me to decide what updates to install. Not all updates are needed,windows security updates sure, but MS does not guarantee hardware compatibility.

I am embarrassed. 

I want to How to delete Windows 10 'orphan' system files.

Prelude:
Earlier I did an experiment to see what happens when you install Windows 10 64 bit on a partition that also has huge amount of photos in folders. I worked and  I decided to abandon the  Windows install. It is on a 500 GB hard drive.The partition is about 80 GB. So it would be nice to RECOVER the drive space.

Today:
This is not a critical issue. I have the option of just doing a quick format and destgroy the whole partition. But I would rather not go that far. But I just might.

Here is what happened. In an experiment I install Windows 10 64 bit onto a partition that has other files not related to the OS. Later I abandon this Windows installation in favor of using a smaller partition for the 64 bit Windows OS.

This results is some very large 'orphan' files on that partition. I would like to recover the space. Over 3 GB of system  files PERSIST because they belong the OS that I am no logger using. I don't know how to remove these files.
Move on BOOT did not work. The utility takeown can not force ownership. I am stumped. So now I am ready to format the partition and also destroy the other files that I would like to keep. (I have a backup.)

Also, I EVEN tried using Ubuntu demo mode to take control. Ubuntu did delete the folders, but put stuff into a special Linux version of a recycle bin.  So the files still take up drive space.  I don't know how to tell Ubuntu to not keep stuff in a recycle thing. Forget Ubuntu. Tell me how to do it in Windows.
 
Is this the right way to do it?Is there a better way to do this kind of experiment?
Just asking. I am curious.   

This is a triple boot stem with Windows XP, Windows 10 and windows 10 64 bit.  The system works fine. I would like to  recover  some drive space.

Thanks for any insight. 
Can you not extend the larger volume over the partition? Also,I wonder if whether or not diskpart would see that 80GB partition.

I picked up a USED Compaq Presario CQ50 laptop w/ Windows 10 rather cheaply but cannot figure out how to set it up for wifi. Everything else on it seems to work just fine.

I double click the Google Chrome icon on the screen and I get "There is no internet connection. Try checking the network cables, modem and router."  But the router is working because our other devices function just fine. How do I check the modem on this model?

Under Windows Network Diagnostics, it instructs me to "turn on wireless capability" but I don't know how.

Any assistance greatly appreciated!

Quote

I picked up a used Compaq Presario CQ50 laptop

Support for the following WLAN formats:
● Atheros AR9280 802.11a/b/g/n
● Atheros AR2425 802.11b/g
● Broadcom BCM4312 802.11

Under Windows Network Diagnostics, it instructs me to "turn on wireless capability" but I don't know how.

I installed a Seagate portable DRIVE to save data on. My pc SHOWS two drive letters for the same drive. I was told this is a registry issue by Seagate. Im hoping there is a simple fix?

ThanksWhy do you thin kit is a problem?
Did the documentation indicate that has only one drive letter?
If the boc was already open when you bought it, somebody ELSE had made it into two partitions.
It is not necessary to do any modifications either to the sea gate firmware or the Windows software. If the documentation indicates that the drive should only have one drive letter, then CALL the vendor ans ask for a rerun or refund.

Please provide the exact model number and somebody here, maybe me, will find the documentation and see what is normal for that product.

Some SeaGate drives do come with two partitions, but without the model number I am not sure about yours.


I dont get it...does it have more than 1 partition ? ?
Or are you saying it reports a different drive letter on different PC "s....


I suspect the latter.A screen shot would be HELPFUL please omit personal info in this SS.  Naturally if there is a partition such as a recovery partition then yes it will have multiple drive letters. My question is: is this your primary drive or secondary storage?He has yet to return and answer the other questions...

Just upgraded to 300MBPS DL 20Mbps Ul........I amgetting the 20mb upload but onky 85mb DL......I have plugged straight from COMPUTER to modem....changed the IP (i'm static) and I still am onky getting 85MB.
The ISP tech came out swappred out the modem, and rewired everything from the box to the modem. Still getting 85Mbps.....I have a dual band ethernet card so that's not the issue. On the ISP tech's equiment/meter he was getting the 300mbps. So.....evidently there is a setting that is wrong on my computer.....any help ??What is the make/model of the computer?

What speed does the computer say its connected at to the modem? A wired connection will be usually 100mbps or 1000mbpsCall the ISP back....BTW how did you change a static IP that's from the provider ? ? Quote from: Jim624 on March 07, 2018, 01:07:20 PM

I have plugged straight from computer to modem

....
I have a dual band ethernet card so that's not the issue.

Hi there! Hope you're all well.

So yeah, as the title states:

   

• Windows 10 Freezes about 1 minute after booting. It happens slowly; programs start up fine within the first 20 SECONDS, then it all grinds to a halt. If I leave it long enough it can say 'windows explorer has crashed' or even just cut to a black screen. It can also happen if I don't login immediately.
• It is, however, completely fine in safe mode with networking (typing this from the comp atm).
• I reformatted the computer as soon as this started happening. It was fine for a few hours, then started again.
•   I've tried booting with just one stick of RAM (tried each one), and I also took out the GPU, but the problem persists without these components.
•   I tried a windows resource protection scan - no INTEGRITY VIOLATIONS. I also tried checking the Event Viewer but I couldn't see any errors in either System or Applications. I also watched the task manager while this was happening - there were no crazy spikes in CPU or Memory usage or anything. Seemed normal.
•   I reformatted my comp a couple of months ago becuase I got a virus. Around the same time, I booted the comp up and it said my BIOS was corrupted - but it automattically restored a previous version and I haven't had the same problem since.
•   Around the same time (2 months ago) I installed a new SSD boot drive.
  
  

Earlier I tried to illustrate this and did not get it to be effective. This time I took screen shots of both Windows XP and Windows 10 on the same PC, a dell 755.

The screen shot below is from:
http://geek9pm.net/pix
(If it does not show, my site is down.)

Hope you can see it.
Now then, the pupae is to show the problem I have with Windows 10. I can hardly read the icon titles in Windows 10. variations in icon size do not help, Changing screen resolution makes only a small difference.

This is one of the reasons I still ha veto use Windows XP rather than Windows 10.

My vision lose cannot be corrected by eyeglasses. I ha veto have the fonts very clear and large. Notice how the Windows 10 fonts are fuzzy even for people with normal vision.
It is beyond me why Microsoft thinks fussy icon titles FARE good for you.

I have another Windows 10 computer and get the same thing. Fuzzy icon titles.

Is there some way to tell Windows 10 not to make the icon title fuzzy?   
 
They look quite good to these eyes. Have you tried Right-click on the desktop and SELECTING Personalize?The text is black in XP and white in Win 10...customise accordingly... Quote from: patio on March 14, 2018, 12:53:28 PM

The text is black in XP and white in Win 10...customise accordingly...

Hello

A question concerning Macrium Reflect. I have launched the software and selected the Windows option to clone Windows in case I ever need to recover it (attached).

This then loads another dialogue box. Am I right in saying that it is expecting a huge amount of Gbs in CDs to image Windows?

I am not too sure if I am going about things the right way.

Many thanks

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]It will "span" across multiple CD's DVDs, and will prompt you to insert another after each one until you have them all.

298GB GB's would require about 470 CDs and around 64 DVDs.

The idea of a backup image is to save the image to a larger external hard drive.MAXIMUM Reflect is a great program. It NEEDS you to pay attention.

Short answer:
Do not try to clone to CDs or DVDs. Carve that in stone.

Longer answer:
Here is what I do.
I have three or four 500 GB drives in my computer den. (One bit the dust.)
Using Maximum Reflect I clone the whole drive roan external unit using USB. It has to reboot to do this. Or I use the CD made by Maximum Reflect.

Making a complete byte-for-byte copy of a drive is called making a clone.

When don the right sway, the new drive will boot the computer after I first mount in in the same slot used by the original drive.

I just had somebody ask me about this elsewhere. Apparently the clone has to be external to make an exact copy. If it is inside the case, windows 10 becomes jealous and bites the second drive and cripple sits ability to boot.

OK, the is not the technicality correct explanation ...
- but it is logically y correct.

Rule. Clone you whole drive to an equal external drive.
Then swap the drives and verify the clockworks. Keep the original drive in safe place. You might never need it. But keep it. Use the clone drive until the next time you would like to make a clone again.

Can you understand why I have three drives? 

Does that help any?   



That's very helpful and perfectly understood. I like the part about Win 10 getting jealous 

Many thanks!As others have said it isn't practical to use cd's or dvd's to backup 296 gb of data. If you backed up to a 1TB usb drive you could FIT 3 backups on the one drive. I'm not sure if Maximum Reflect does this.
Certainly Easeus Todo backup does. A tip is to use the password option on the backup.
This will stop cryptolocker should you ever have it encrypt your drive doing the same to the backups. Also todo allows you to save some backups and then over write others. For example  backup 3 times, then keep the first backup and then over write the 2 last backups. If you do use Easeus Todo backup make sure you make a recovery disk or pen drive from the program.
 Guess I will never fully understand the answer to this question - why clone instead of image?Clone is for when you want to use the copy. if you want to upgrade your systems boot drive, you clone your existing one to a new one and then swap that new one in place of the old one.

Image is for when you want to back up a drive's contents, like make an image of your boot drive and save it.

I suppose a clone can also serve as a "backup" for a boot drive that you can recover by just swapping it in place, which seems to be the method Geek-9pm described.

Thanks BC_Programmer

I meant to use the CD, when it has copied the engine-room of my PC tower, as a recovery-disk in case of system failure.

Thanks again. Quote from: BC_Programmer on March 22, 2018, 03:51:10 AM

Clone is for when you want to use the copy. if you want to upgrade your systems boot drive, you clone your existing one to a new one and then swap that new one in place of the old one.

Image is for when you want to back up a drive's contents, like make an image of your boot drive and save it.

I suppose a clone can also serve as a "backup" for a boot drive that you can recover by just swapping it in place, which seems to be the method Geek-9pm described.

Or install your backup image onto a new drive. Seems like the biggest advantage for a clone is that it is a ready to go spare drive although it seems just as easy to install a bootable image as it is to swap out drives. Sorry for the hijack...won’t do it again.

I know there has been some discussion in the past, re: Bulk Renaming (e.g., Converting huge swaths of JPGs from a camera into "Birthday 1", "Birthday 2", etc.).

Here's what I've got to do:

• I have about 256 files that have been named with Alpha names (e.g., "Tony Stark Sales Q117.xlsw", "Tom Brady Products 2019.pptx", "Bruce Springsteen User Comments.docx", "James Bond Weapons Inventory.mdf").
• I need to put them in a SPECIFIC order (unfortunately, not chrono by save date).
• I figured I should just append the file NAME (i.e., the above COULD be "2 Tony Stark Sales Q117.xlsw", "1 Tom Brady Products 2019.pptx", "4 Bruce Springsteen User Comments.docx", "1 James Bond Weapons Inventory.mdf")

(You say 'exists in [my] brain' like it's a bad thing...!)

Hi everyone,
So I wen't to buy a big TV screen and I paid top dollar for one particular TV, because they told me it is actually capable of a TRUE 200Hz REFRESH rate (not just some backlight to give it an "EQUIVALENT").

I took the TV home, plugged it in to my computer, opened up the display settings all excited to change it to 4k 120hz, but then I find that no matter what the RESOLUTION is set at, I still cannot get above 60hz...

So I called the TV manufacturer thinking "damnit they lied and gave me a TV which has a fake refresh rate advertised".
The manufacturer said that the TV is in fact a 200hz TV, and they suggested perhaps my graphics card does not support a higher refresh rate than 60hz.
When I told them my graphics card DOES support higher refresh rates than 60Hz, they suggested that I would need a HDMI 2.0b cable, and that might be my problem...

So I went out, bought myself a brand new top of the range HDMI cable, and still the refresh rates cannot go above 60hz...

So I contacted the graphics card manufacturer, and they told me that yes the graphics card is in fact capable of supporting a refresh rate of 60hz, but perhaps the TV doesn't support it....

Being sick of going around in circles, I checked online forums, and I'm seeing mixed opinions,  that HDMI cables don't support refresh rates above 60hz, but others saying it does...

Whats the REAL answer here??
I loaded up a linux based OS recently, and it was set at 70hz, so whats the go here??
I'm at a loss here, because I have no idea what the real answer is...
Why can I not get above 60hz on my windows 10 OS, but a linux based OS was running the display at 70hz?
 What is the actual video card make/model and what is the actual TV make/model so we can see the whole picture of what you have. Additionally if you can provide all computer specs if you have those too as well as is it everything capping at 60Hz or just a game etc.

Lastly I am guessing you have the latest driver installed for your GPU and not using the default driver that Windows associates with it?Sorry I should have included that information.

GPU: GTX 1060 running in overclocked mode via ASUS GPU TweakII.
CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 Overclocked and stable.
Operating system: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit.
Monitor: Samsung 4k TV - Model no:UA55MU8000W
Here's a link to a page with the TV: http://www.samsung.com/au/support/model/UA55MU8000WXXY
Yes I uninstalled the Graphics drivers and reinstalled with an automatic NVIDIA Geforce updater today, still no joy.

I have tried setting it in the display settings (right clicking on windows desktop, clicking to change resolution etc), and I have tried forcing the refresh rate through the NVIDIA control panel, but when I try to force it, the TV turns off.

If you look on the specs on their WEBSITE, it actually doesn't tell you the refresh rate. It only specifies that it has the backlight thing to smooth blurring.
I had to call the manufacturer to ask them if the TV actually has a real refresh rate of 200hz, and they initially said it doesn't when they looked at the specs online, but I told them the retailer told me it was definitely 200hz, so they checked with their tech people and they said yes it is actually a 200hz TV.

I read somewhere that you can't get above 60hz with a HDMI cable, and that you gotta use a DVI cable or (display port).
This TV only has support for HDMI...If you check the manual here
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/201801/20180123105059723/ENG_KTMDVBADL-3.1.2_171206.0.pdf

Page 119 Read Before Connecting a Computer (Supported Resolutions)

It shows the native resolution is 3840 x 2160 at 60Hz with the HDMI UHD Color set to On. The native resolution is 3840 x 2160 at
30Hz with the HDMI UHD Color set to Off.

The highest refresh is 72Hz at lower resolution, which i suspect Linux would have used with no Nvidia drivers loaded.
This is a HDMI limitation as well as the TV's so if you want higher refresh you would need to use the display port and a monitor.

Basically what you are saying, is that the retailer lied to me, right?
Because first the retailer said "this is a 200hz TV, and YES it WILL work on your computer for gaming.
Then when I called him later and asked him why he recommended this TV if it only has HDMI compatibility, and so can not get above 60hz, and he said something to the effect of "it doesn't matter what the signal is coming through. if the graphics card sends information at higher than 60 frames per second, then the screen itself will display it with a refresh rate of above 60hz.

So... I'm still confused. Did the retailer lie to me?

I specifically told the guy it was for gaming and that I wanted to get higher refresh rates in gaming, so he recommended this expensive TV becuase its a 200hz TV.
I mean if I cant get above 60hz in gaming from my PC because this TV doesn't have the right display ports for it, I feel like I've been duped...
Google search:
Quote

Today's Ultra HD 4K TVs are all marketed with "motion," "action" and "clear" numbers that start at 240Hz and go up from there. They're all basically made up. Here's the real story.

So... I'm still confused. Did the retailer lie to me?

This weekend I am playing with the  Gateway SX 2110G given to me by a friend.
It has  have a 400 GB hard drive that I have PARTITIONED as a MBR type.
First I reinstalled windows XP sp3 pro  32 bit. After that, I install Windows 7 pro 63 bit. and it works. But it keeps getting updates. It is working  OK.
Now I am stumped. I made a USB device using the MEDIA creation tool from Microsoft.  It has 64 bit Windows 10. I do not know the build of version. It does not say.When
Here is the problem. When the PC starts to boot, I press the F12 key repeatedly untill I get the boot menu. It is rather confusing. Th USB device is called 'Kingston', the band of the USB device. There are two entry points  of interest:
Kingston UFI
Kingston
If I pick the first, it goes through a lot of  steps and then tells me it can not install on a MBR disc.
The other choice sends be to the Windows boot manager, which just shows what I already have, windows 7 and the older system. No joy.

This has me thinking that the Media Creation Tool will not let me create a Windows 10 package the can install on a MBR.

This is not a critical thing. I can live without an explanation. Just wondering what did I not see in the instructions. I know that I have installed 64 bit from a DVD. I have yet to try that again, but I do recall I did that LAST year. I think. 
Any comments welcome.  You have to turn off any and all UEFI modes within the system BIOS. If you can't, then you cannot install WIndows 10 on an MBR disk.Right.!   
I taught I did that. I first made a MBR disc using another tool and then install Windowsd 7 64 bit on the MBR dis. So I thought I was ready for Windows 10 64 bit. Apparently I did something wrong.

I had used the 'media creatio0n tool' for setting up a USB device.
Right now I am doing a download of the ISO for Windows 10 64 17025 insider build. Then I will bypass the media creation tool and burn it to a DVD.

My guess is the DVD will work the way I except it to. The DVD  setup  will  bring up the 64 bit INSTALLER and it will install on the MBR drive I have prepared. I hope.

This is the only way I know of to get Windows XP onto the same disk with the 64 bit Windows 10. The Windows XP loader can not work on a GPT drive no way Jose.
Bu there is an article on Tom's hardware that says that issue was resolved years ago.
It seems they mean that XP and read a GPT with some help. But  it will not boot from GPT.

However,  If there is enough space inside the box, I could put another hard drive inside. The BLIOS firmware   does allow that. I think.

Do you know anything about that?
Update.
Got it to work. Yes, you have to turn off anything related to UEFI ** to get Windows XP to boot. And then then you have to make sure the USB stick will not be UEFI.

The Gateway firmware on the SWX2110 is strange.There is some documentation, but it is hard to understand. So trial and error was used.

** UEFI -  Unified EXTENSIBLE Firmware Interface.
By default the Gateway SX2110 is set for UEFI mode, which means the hard drive can not be MBR.  It has options for legacy mode. However, it is not just one simple switch. If the hard drive is MBR and the USB device is not, Windows 64 bit will not install. No explanation.

Anyway, it now works.

So I’m not really sure how to word this..

I recently got a PC and am very new to PC gaming and everything on PC in GENERAL and I USED NEXUS mod manager to get a few mods, my problem is that when I download a file now the prompt in the bottom left HAND corner is now forcing me to use NMM, it’s really frustrating. I’m using Windows 10 if that helps. The location of the file is fine, just when I click on a download link it lets me choose where to save it but it makes me download it through NMM. Please help!! See Here...

I've opened Outlook, as usual, today but FOUND that I can only see the last three days of email. I normally see loads (going back some years!)

I'd like to find them. Can anyone help?

I have Windows 10 version 1703, build 15063.540 64 bit and I'm running Outlook version 14.0.7194.5000 32 bit.if you logon to e-mail provider through something other than outlook ( such as through their WEB browser interface ) you might still have access to them. There is a setting in option for outlook to set how long e-mail remain before deletion.Thanks for the reply Dave. 

I've gone onto webmail and there is a similar LOSS of email, which sort of suggests that this is an issue for my ISP as I've not deleted email from my webmail account. They are now looking into it so I hope, at worst, that they have archived it and can restore it.  HOWEVER, it's a little worrying that the email downloaded to my PC's Outlook account in the past has gone as well!  I should be able to find it!  I've not knowingly deleted any emails from my PC and there are none in my recycle box.

Thanks for the INFO on deletion times in Outlook.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find it in my version of Outlook.

Which version of outlook do you have and one of us can point out where the setting is for you to check on it? Quote

There is a setting in option for outlook to set how long e-mail remain before deletion.

Hello,

Here’s my brief backstory:  I’ve been confined to a wheelchair and unable to speak since suffering a stroke in 2006.  It left me with enough capability to operate a laptop COMPUTER, which I use all day, every day. 

Problem:  Since I can’t speak, I don’t EVEN own a cellphone, much less a smartphone.  My wife has a Galaxy S5, on which she has the ‘Shazam’ app loaded.  It’s great!  We use it fairly often to identify songs we HEAR on the radio, on TV, etc.  The problem is that I have to rely on her presence and it involves me asking her to drop everything and look up a particular song quickly before it quits playing.  Whereas I’d like to just be able to look up a song myself with my computer.  I google’ed around the internet looking for a ‘Shazam-like’  program for my PC for about an hour, but came up empty-handed. 

Question:  Does anyone know if there is something like this out there that is for a PC and NOT a smartphone? 

Thanks,

Jim B. 
Shazam for PC was discontinued in 2017. You can still find sites that appear to offer it, by doing a Google SEARCH, but Google Chrome blocks them all on my system, saying they are potential malware sites. If you have Windows 10, Cortana has a music recognition system, although I have not tried it. This is how I saw its use described: "Tap Cortana and then the little music icon, or just say "hey Cortana, what's playing?" (or "what's this song" or "who sings this song", etc.)". Of course this presumes you have a system 1. running Windows 10, 2. with a functioning microphone. There is a Windows app called Soundhound that may be worth checking out. Quote

Of course this presumes you have a system 1. running Windows 10, 2. with a functioning microphone.

and 3. The ability to speak

The game was working smooth just yesterday but today as I decided to complete the pending system/driver updates now WHENEVER I open the game it only loads a black screen on its start up MEANWHILE I do can hear the BACKGROUND audio and gradually it AUTOMATICALLY crashes and send me back to desktop. How do I fix it guys??I SEE three choices;

• check for any patches for the game
• re-install the game
• uninstall the driver update

Curious what the best plan of action is here other than doing away with Windows XP. I have an older gaming rig that is Windows XP and I decided to make a share on it for my new Windows 10 system to have access to a shared folder so that I can download UT99 custom game map files using the safety of Windows 10 and up to date antivirus and then copy them after scanning them for malware to the shared folder on the Windows XP system. However I went to access the shared folder at say \\192.168.100.14\share$ and instantly Windows 10 popped up stating that the connection is insecure and Windows 10 by default doesnt support SMB1. It then has a URL in the pop up message, but you cant CLICK on the URL in the pop up message to follow the link as well as you cant even highlight text in this message to copy/paste it into browser.

Looking online I see a mess of people showing tricks on how to get Windows XP and Windows 10 to talk, but not sure what the best approach is. Some have where your adding an allowance for SMB1 for Windows 10 which weakens the security of that Windows 10 system. Others have an intermediary system which is Windows 7 which 7 will talk via SMB1 and SMB2 and that acts as a bridge between XP and Windows 10, as well as using a 2008 Server was a communications bridge between both. I was hoping there would be an ability to add SMB2 to Windows XP Pro SP3 but I havent found that option yet.

So looking for advice on how to solve this issue where I want my Windows 10 system to be able to access a folder share on my Windows XP system.... Is it as weird as making a local LAN VPN tunnel for both systems to communicate via a common protocol that both support or some other means? To me a VPN tunnel locally for both to talk and share a folder just seems overkill but maybe its the only way. This is the first time I EVER heard about SMB1 and SMB2. I have made shares between XP and Windows 7 for years with no problems, but Windows 10 I migrated over to vs using Windows 7 all the time and it came to be that I found this issue when trying to share a folder on the XP 32-bit system with the Windows 10 64-bit system. 

The Windows XP SP3 system I have the firewall shut off and it has a static IP Address with no gateway set so its offline from the internet and can only communicate on the local LAN.

Currently saving the files to USB stick and moving them to the XP system that way but sneaker network is just stupid when there has to be a way to set this up over network share of some kind.I have a  Windows XP desktop (Custom Pentium 4 that I've mentioned) and a Laptop (Thinkpad T41) and both have no trouble connecting to my main Desktop and accessing file shares and copying files back and forth. You have to turn SMB v1 on in the Windows Features. I had it disabled for a while after that Wannacry thing since that was where the VULNERABILITY was but changed my mind.

1. Start->Run "Control"
2. Switch to Category View if needed.
3. Choose "Uninstall a Program" in the "programs" Category.
4. Turn Windows Features on and off
5. Turn on SMB v1.



I'm not sure if not having it with an active gateway could cause problems. Mine both get Internet Access and are visible on my LAN to all other systems.Thanks for sharing that BC...

I was slightly fearful of switching to SMB v1 on Windows 10, but looking further into it, as long as a router is in place SMB v1 should be good to go on the local LAN and only threat for problems would be if something was brought in on the local LAN and executed there that targets devices using SMB v1 I am assuming. My router doesnt have any port forwarding to this Windows 10 system so assuming all should be safe.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Server_Message_BlockReference:

Image result for what is SMBv1
Server message block (SMB) is an application layer network protocol used typically to provide shared access to files and printers. ... Windows Server 2003, and older NAS devices use SMBv1 natively. It is a very inefficient protocol; Microsoft have advised all customers to stop using SMBv1.May 18, 2017.  ...

How to Detect SMBv1 Use on Your Network Using Traffic Analysis

Sounds complicated.

After 15 minutes of use, the internet slows to almost non-responsive. After re-start, I get a window with 9-10 TABS. Please let me know how to post computer basic info. Thanks very much.For starters we NEED some more information.

Make/Model of computer ( Plus any upgrades you have done since if its an off the SHELF brand model, if its a custom built computer all the SPECS )?
Do you have a antivirus and are the definitions up to date and does it scan with no problems detected?
Have you run Malwarebytes on it to verify that the browser hasn't been hijacked?
What browser are you using?
When did this problem start ( such as any other useful information to help target the cause of your issue such as the computer was dropped or it was infected but is clean now etc )?ALSO - you say "on restart" you get a "window" with 9-10 tabs. I assume you mean a browser opens. If so:

Restart of what - the browser or the computer?

If the latter, do you mean the browser opens on its own?

What is in the tabs?

An old program I need runs in Windows 10 in compatibility mode.
But that is not the issue. But it is sort of related.
In that program I can not BRING up the help file. From prior experience I know you can open a Help file without its program. So I thought.

Windows 10 will not let the old program READ the help file, nor will Window 10 read it. However, there is a nice help thing that come sup and explains there is a help reader for other versions of Windows. I am confused. Why do I want a reader for some other version of windows? OK, think maybe thy mean that this will help me now. So I try to load these alternative help readers and they ill not install in Windows 10 32 bit.

Weill, that is just one of the reasons I can not stop using Windows XP. I will have to boot Windows XP, read the help file and maybe convert it to a format Windows 10 likes better.

Just checking to see if others have had this kind of problem. You have a program that can run in Windows 10, but the help file is not allowed.  Very strange. Those older 'HLP' files date to Windows 3.1 and have a rather complicated history. Suffice it to say that compatibility was more or less removed from Windows for those files starting with Vista. There is no "conversion" except to literally remake the help files yourself using HTML help.

It's possible to use those hotfix files for Windows 7 (or 8/8.1, probably) and force them to install on Windows 10.

I put the files together Here. It's a ZIP file download. The "install.cmd" file performs the installation (it has to run as admin- be sure to review it's contents!) I actually took that from elsewhere and fiddled with it a bit so that it would work on Windows 10. Fundamentally it copies a few files and then sets a few registry flags related to the Windows Help system, so you can use it from older applications. Before I applied it, double-clicking the helpfile for Visual Basic would take me here. Afterwards, I'm able to use the help file pretty much as EXPECTED:



Thank you for you work, BC.

Too bad MS did not make the Help format  system clean and simple from the start.The lessons learned from the design of the original Windows Help system informed the design of the HTML Help system that came later. I don't think they could have made it "clean and simple" from the start anymore than you can realistically build a house from the top down.

The original setup was more or less before hypertext was a big thing on typical systems, so it was designed in a vacuum. unfortunately the design is a bit of a mess. You had a Help Project File, the various bitmaps and a few extra file format's as well as rtf files which had markup inserted using footnotes and arbitrary RTF features, all of which you compiled to a .HLP file using a Help Compiler.

the CHM (Compiled HTML) format that came later was practically dead-simple to use by comparison. And I don't think it's prudent to have two help systems around. As much as I'm a PROPONENT of "use things that work" you have to dump legacy stuff at some point. I imagine they've started stripping it out starting with Vista because even up through Windows XP, software was still being distributed with old-style Help files. Removing the Winhelp program definitely doesn't help users but it at least encourages DEVELOPERS to move towards something that is more compatible.

I have opportunity to purchase a computer that has been upgraded from Win 7 to Win 10. This computer is a Dell Optiplex 390, with an Intel Core i5 Quadcore and has a fresh install of Windows 10 Professional. The guy that has it buys them by the pallet from the local Universities when THEY do upgrades, wipes them clean and does a fresh install. I got the computer I am using now from him and am quite happy with it. I had been using XP for over ten YEARS so, updating was a big step for me ... Lol.
Anyway, my question here is this, will this be a bad idea, as generally speaking, putting a newer OS on a computer designed for an older OS will bog it down and cause it to be slow and lag a lot. I am asking here because, I am confident, the well seasoned members will have the right answers.
  I've been shopping for another  computer for a COUPLE of weeks now and have considered having one custom built so, in my ventures, visited a few local shops that do custom builds AND repairs. While doing these visits, I kinda pick at the techs brains ... They've all upgraded Win 7 or 8 systems to 10. I asked THEM the same thing I asked here. Their answers were all about the same and that was that Win 10 doesn't need or use near the resources that 7 or 8 does and should perform quite well. Quote

putting a newer OS on a computer designed for an older OS will bog it down and cause it to be slow and lag a lot.

He is offering a 30 day warranty ...

I am having an issue with when I LET my computer go to sleep (I walk away from it too long) that it changes the resolution of the SCREEN and MAKES it way to streached out to be viewed right. I was wonder if there was a way to fix this issue? I have a Windows 10 computer. I thought I had a screenshot the error if I find it I will add the screenshot to this information

On the MS site is has some info about this. But I have yet  to try it. I mean on this system. My other system seems to have that feature built-in. I am  confounded.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4026852/windows-create-a-recovery-drive
Is the above what I want?


With Windows 10, I have just been reinstalling fresh from installation ISO that they provided that they keep updating. Important data I have been storing on my google drive so that I dont need to recover data on a crashed system prior to reinstall.

There is always the option to repair the old install using this media too, but I havent gone that route with 10 yet as for I have only had Windows 10 64-bit corrupt on me once when I was messing around with trying out different video cards for benchmarking different ones on like hardware and Windows 10 didnt like the switching back and forth between NVIDIA and AMD cards of different generations where I think the problem was that I put in an older video card than that of the LAST driver version to where a driver too new for an older card was trying to run and I found myself stuck in a BSOD boot LOOP. I probably should have started with older cards first and worked my way forward with drivers.Start->Run recdisc will create a System Repair disc.

Otherwise, from what I can find, Windows cannot create a Recovery Drive on a DVD without additional software. You can burn the standard Installation Media through the Media Creation Tool to DVD though.Thank you both.
 Windows 10 is a work in progress. Some information seems to be not up to date.

One of the links I found lead me around and around and I ended up doing a download that I though would result in just a ISO file. But after that., it asked me to burn to DVD, which I did. It did make a 32 version of Windows 10, but I have yet to use it.
I an going to prepare a hard drive and see if it will install.

So, now it seems you can create a  a DVD install from Windows 10 in some process. Sort of. I will let you know if it works.  AdrianG001,
 Thanks.  That is the info needed.I will give it a try.  Who's Adrian ? ? Quote from: patio on February 23, 2018, 02:45:50 PM

Who's Adrian ? ?

Geek-9pm is referring to a spam post. I saw it before it was removed.

Overview
When you download Windows from Microsoft Store, you have two options: You can download a collection of compressed files, or you can download an ISO file. An ISO file combines all the Windows installation files into a single uncompressed file.
If you choose to download an ISO file so you can create a bootable file from a DVD or USB drive, copy the Windows ISO file onto your drive and then run the Windows USB/DVD Download Tool. Then simply install Windows onto your computer directly from your USB or DVD drive.

Geek-9pm is referring to a spam post. I saw it before it was removed.

I am experiencing problems on my Toshiba SATELLITE Laptop when TRYING to view VIDEO clips running windows 10

The screens are black but there is audio (You Tube however works OK)

I have tried re-installing Adobe Flash without success plus I have tried Adobe and Microsoft HELP sites again without my problem being resolved albeit some recommendations are far beyond my computer skill levels.

Any help/recommendations would be appreciated

Thanks

Woody

Since my update to 1709, I could never get Cortana to work, especially in the search depjartment. i've done considerable research and found that I am not alone with this problem. So far for all the offers of how to correct this problem have not worked. Personally, I don't care about the 'live chat' ...all i ask for is the old search box w henever i may have to get to a certain area. As of now, I do my limited searching by doing the Window + R, E routines, which is a pain. Am I too late in starting from scratch with a new win 10, or do i have to buy it? If i am not too late, could I get at least back to the 1709 version or not?You could try refreshing windows, or using "RESET Your PC" found in Settings. Though as you've not provided any specifics beyond "it doesn't work" who knows if that could fix it.

You could check indexing options and make sure the locations you want to search are being indexed by checking Indexing Options.


Also, if you don't actually utilize anything cortana specific, and just want the "old" file search feature from Vista through Windows 8.1 which searched your local files and shortcuts, you can turn off Cortana by creating an "AllowCortana" DWORD Value via Registry Editor at HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search.you can turn off Cortana by creating an "AllowCortana" DWORD Value via Registry Editor at HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search.>>>

I get as far as Windows and there is no  "Windows Search" shown.

You could try refreshing windows, or using "Reset Your PC" found in Settings. >>>

I don't know what version you have, but mine does not show anything that says "reset your PC" in my settings.

You could check indexing options and make sure the locations you want to search are being indexed by checking Indexing Options.>>>

i don't understand the above at all.
Personally, I disable Windows search and use "Everything" (https://www.voidtools.com/). It is lightweight, free, and provides instantaneous returns. Allan, thanks for the tip. 
Here is a review of Everything search tool:
http://download.cnet.com/Everything/3000-2379_4-10890746.html
Quote

Beta or prerelease software is not intended for inexperienced users, as the software may contain BUGS or potentially damage your system. We strongly recommend that users exercise caution and save all mission-critical data before installing and/or using this software.

Windows Search has always had a number of neat tips and tricks you could use, but it was never quite on par with the search features of OS X and Linux. And while Windows 10 did lessen the gap in a lot of ways, it’s still slow and imperfect.
If you find yourself constantly searching for files and folders throughout your system, you may be better off switching to one of these third-party tool instead. Windows Search is only good for basic and casual use.

I get as far as Windows and there is no  "Windows Search" shown.

You could check indexing options and make sure the locations you want to search are being indexed by checking Indexing Options.>>>

i don't understand the above at all.

I really have no idea where to post this, but they seem to have fixed an issue that - while not a bug, has been most vexing to me.

I had to rename some folders, and MOVE some files and folders around. But then when I went to Word's "Recently Used File List" and selected the file... It took a second... And found it automatically in its new LOCATION.

That's pretty solid.

It comes with some caveats, as far as I can tell:
* It only works with ONEDRIVE files
* OneDrive needs to finish all its syncing
* Excel is hinkey - it depends if it looks locally or on the cloud first... Which is an issue I've yet to get to be consistent

So it's a minor victory, I guess. But it's always annoyed me that "Recently Used Files" is really just "Files Used Recently That Are Left Exactly Where You Saved Them and Have Never Been TOUCHED Any Other Way".

OK, really minor. Quote

OK, really minor

My laptop sometimes gives error messages or page not found. when i troubleshoot the network adapter 'ethernet 2' it gave error "ethernet 2 doesn't have a valid ip configuration". i have try to change the ip address, gateway, dns, ipconfig, etc but it still the same. i also FOLLOW tried articles from the web to deal with this PROBLEM but still fail. PLEASE advise.more INFO is needed Albert.
like what are the IP values you are typing into the network settings box for ethernet2?
what is the IP address of your modem/router?
so you are typing in static values, have you tried setting it to dynamic and having the network card get everything automatically?

Is there a way to transfer a few photos  at one go (instead of one-by-one ) from my mobile phone to my laptop?

Sending them to the laptop individually takes up a lot of time.

Thank you beforehand for your kind help.

Joe Busuttil
If you can plug the phone into the laptop using a USB cable you may be able to view, on the laptop, your phone's camera pictures folder, in Windows Explorer or whatever it is on Apples. Then you highlight one or more picture file and do copy or cut and then paste them into a folder of your choosing.
You can also try syncing via Dropbox (or something like it). Don't KNOW that it's faster, but you COULD move them all into a folder, sync just that folder, and let it happen in the background.On an Android phone, when viewing picture THUMBNAILS in Gallery, or a file explorer app, you can select multiple items one at a time by long-pressing each one, then perform a share operation on the thus-selected group, like send by email, etc.
Do you have BLUETOOTH on your computer? If the phone is in a certain range (USUALLY 25-40 feet, around 30 usual) you can send the photos to your computer in the way Salmon Trout mentioned above.

I have a program that I have been running successfully for quite a while.

Recently it has started asking for permission to run: "User Account Control: Do you want to allow this app from an unknown publisher to make changes to your device?".

This happens if I launch the program from its icon or from an associated file.

I am the Admin for this machine. I have tried running this program As Administrator, and that has not helped.

The software itself has not updated, but I don't know if this changed relative to a Windows Update. (Not certain exactly what update I was on when I first noticed this, but I have been on 10 Pro Version 1709 Build 16299.192; I just received 1709 16299.248 and am still having the issue.)

Don't really care why this has changed, but would like to know how to make it stop.

Depends on the app. 

Apparently you have downloaded an app written by somebody who pays little attention to the need for security and did not register their business.

Why not tell us the name or description of the App.Where and how did you get it?

About half of the 'unknown source' programs are either malicious or harmful in some way. Such code was made by somebody who wants to hurt you. Or does not not care if he hurts you.


my solution has always been to set Control PANEL, User Accounts, Change User Account Control SETTINGS, slide to Never Notify.
you'll stop all UAC warnings then...  BUT BEWARE, you stop ALL warnings, but that's exactly how I want it.It's qBitTorrent, and, like I said, its version has not changed - but its behavior has (which leads me to believe it's Window's reaction that's changed, not the application). I don't want UAC to whitelist EVERYTHING, for the reasons Geek alluded to. Is there no effective way to change UAC for just one particular piece of software?Windows updates have not altered the behaviour of UAC inherently. Settings may have changed, I suppose.

UAC prompt appears when:

-You launch an application who's embedded manifest indicates that it requires administrator permissions and UAC is enabled

-You launch an application which has the "Compatibility" setting of "Run as Administrator" and UAC is enabled

-The application itself attempts to elevate. (Usually, the application checks if it has admin, notices it doesn't, then relaunches itself with the "runas" verb which ELEVATES it and in that process windows shows the UAC prompt if UAC is enabled.

-"Admin Approval Mode" is set to prompt for unverified executables and the signing certificate used to sign the executable has expired.

-The "Admin Approval Mode" Group Policy is in place and UAC is enabled. In this mode the UAC prompts require you to enter a password and I don't think they are skipped by the level of UAC.

We can eliminate the last option simply because it is so unlikely- unless you ARE being prompted for a password, that is! The second to last seems plausible but qbittorrent is not signed at all, so there is no certificate to expire.

That leaves perhaps you've accidentally set the compatibility settings in the program or perhaps some setting in the program that has been altered has it attempting to self elevate? Perhaps settings related to file associations?

Unfortunately there isn't a UAC "whitelist". Possibly fortunate because that would defeat the purpose and provide a relatively easy way for malicious software to elevate itself without displaying the consent dialog.


Quote

Apparently you have downloaded an app written by somebody who pays little attention to the need for security and did not register their business.

About half of the 'unknown source' programs are either malicious or harmful in some way. Such code was made by somebody who wants to hurt you. Or does not not care if he hurts you.

I'm stuck in a loop on the math, though - how do I calculate half of "innumerable"!? (Can I guess, though? Is "foobar2000" a bad one?).

Simply having the software installed has no chance or capability to infect a system. You have to explicitly download torrents and those torrents have to contain malicious items.

BitTorrent itself is highly unlikely to harm your computer.
However what you download using BitTorrent - well, that's a different story. Some caution is called for

Hello members!

Please refer to the enclosed pictorial description & help suggest on the following please !  :-

1) Is there a way to expand C: to ameliorate this low storage concern?

2) Why this 'system reserved' partition (G:) has started appearing all of a sudden ? It wasn't SHOWING up under 'My Computer' until yesterday!?

Inputs will be sincerely appreciated.
Thank you.

PS -
OS Name   Microsoft Windows 10 Pro
Version   10.0.16299 Build 16299


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]there are various options available to you.

be ruthless on C:\ and re-locate all your User folders (like Docs, Pics, Music etc) to another drive like D:\ or E:\.
this is done by right clicking those User folders and selecting the Location tab.
also free up space by RELOCATING the pagefile to another drive, DELETE the hibernation file, reducing Restore Points to 1% or disabling them altogether and reducing the Recycle Bin size.

but those are stop-gap measures, ideally you should backup the contents of D:\ and E:\ to some other medium, then delete those two partitions, that will combine those two 20GB's with the unallocated 830GB partition then you can expand C:\ to take up all that space.Hello Mark.

Thanks for the reply.

What about that 'System reserved' - G: ? It wasn't showing up before !? What made it appear all of a sudden?

& how to bid it a permanent goodbye?

& lastly, isn't there an innovative way to merge some portion of an already available unallocated space to expand C: ?

Yes I can tong a hammer on D: & E: quite easily to follow on what you suggested...but does there exist some innovative approach to achieve this purpose?

Thanks. I wouldn't worry about the System Reserved partition, just leave it alone.  I would pretty MUCH do what Mark. suggested, back up D: and E: somewhere else then delete those 2 partitions.  Instead of expanding C: to take up all of the now unallocated space, I would expand the C: partition to about 120GB, then use the rest of the drive as a D: partition.  Then use C: only for the OS and programs, use D: only for data storage.Thank you very much!

This turned out to be the 'Best' resolution indeed! totally effortless & convenient.

Thank you Mark. &  Thank you strollin for not making me go through some cumbersome process of any 3rd-party application!

Goodbye & all the very Best !

Topic Solved.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Glad to know.

Correct me if I am wrong, but when ONE gets the FREE win 10 update, it does not CREATE a RECOVERY partition as one does with an OEM computer? mine is a Build one, and I installed with a legal disk of Win 7, so I am assuming that my recovery partition is of Win 7, although I since have the free Win 10 version. So, if I want to reinstall Win 10, then I suspect that i have to create a recovery partition with the Mini tool. Is this correct?Correct

windows updates can not be installed because windows thinks it's a windows to go machine . it is not . this problem popped up RECENTLY after an windows 10 update . i'm so frustrated that i just want to use my recovery disks and start over . windows won't let me . there was a fix using regedit but the value to be deleted was not found . another fix , making the disk partition active won't work . and of course i can't just reformat the disk  . any ideas ?

i have a HP DV6 7014 . it sounds like you are intent of wiping and starting from scratch.
if so, use the Media Creation Tool and make yourself a bootable USB or DVD image.
then use that to reload Windows 10.
that will give you the 1709 version (the latest Creators Update) and 16299.15 build, then you'll need to do some Windows Updates to get to the latest 16299.192 build.

all the THINGS you have tried and failed, have there been reasons for the failures, like error messages etc.If it were me, I would install a fresh copy on a spare hard drive. Later I wold THINK about how to repair the original.

You can install Windows 10 on even a 40GB hard drive. Most desktop swill let you slave another drive. That way you can get your data.

From dictation.
It looks like I am at the point where  need to stop getting the Windows insider updates. I've had a catastrophic failure and was not able to repair my Windows 10 installation. Rather than RESTORING it from a backup, I opted to just install it all over again and install my favorite programs again.
Here is where you can HELP me. It is time for me to quit the insider program. It is just too much for me to keep up on which update did which thing and how to go roll it back.
Here is the name of the file that I used to install Windows 10 on my Dell computer.

Windows10_InsiderPreview_x32_en-us_17025.iso

So, what is the proper procedure to go into my Microsoft account and indicate that I do not want to have any more insider updates unless it is something that I really ought to have. It takes just too much of my time to try to roll things back or recover from a backup whenever something goes wrong. The last CATASTROPHE set my computer into an endless loop where there was no way to  repair it. Even with the USB device I was not able to do a repair of the Windows 10 installation on the computer. So that is why I opted to just wipe the partition and start over again.
As much as I like to experiment with things, it's time for me to act like I really am 79 years old. About twenty years ago I could do this stuff.
Thank you for any suggestions.
End of dictation.
Settings, Updates and Security, then "Windows Insider Program" in the left-hand navigation menu, then the "Stop Preview Builds" button. Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 06, 2018, 04:19:38 PM

Settings, Updates and Security, then "Windows Insider Program" in the left-hand navigation menu, then the "Stop Preview Builds" button.

I am absolutely stymied here.

I use Outlook 2016 (all updates current) on Windows 10 64 (all updates current) with my AOL account.

Today, between 10:12AM and 11:31AM, it stopped sending and receiving MESSAGES.

Outlook shows "connected", but I get a "Send/Receive" ERROR:


This happens whether or not I am connected to my 'home' ISP or tethered to my PHONE's T-Mobile account.

I am able to send and receive messages on my iPad, using its built in standard Mail app. On both WiFi and on its AT&T cellular service.

I am able to SEND messages via my Android phone's built-in Mail app, but I am NOT able to update my Android Inbox ,using either WiFi or T-Mobile. I don't receive an error message, it just eventually times out.

I just set up Thunderbird on my PC using same ports and AUTHENTICATION as Outlook, and it seems to send and receive just fine.

My Outlook sends and receives a non-AOL account just fine.

Checking mail on AOL.com appears to be A-OK. Using Outlook for WebAccess doesn't seem to do anything (no Inboxes, etc., update, and the test message shows in Sent but never did send. Then again, I don't know that I have ever been asked to provide my AOL password to OWA).

My AOL account on Outlook (on Windows PC) last received a message at 10:12 this morning. The next message in my iPad Inbox is at 11:31; it has not yet appeared in my PC Outlook.

I made no known changes to my Outlook configuration.

I attempted a System Restore, which failed - telling me my AntiVirus was interfering. I use Windows Defender, turned it off, and it still failed. (I have successfully used System Restore on this PC, with Defender running, in the past).

I am at my wits' end - it's clearly not an ISP issue (SINCE it doesn't matter what network my PC is connected to). I thought perhaps it was a port issue on AOL's side - but how does that explain the iPad is working fine?

So I am in a pickle. I don't know what to try, or even who to reach out to - AOL? But even then, what is the issue? I know if I reach out to MSFT it will be weeks of back-and-forth was I re-explain everything in this post.

Thoughts? Help?

(And no, "Stop using AOL" is neither an option nor is it helpful.)AOL is down, as seen here. Massive spike in issues.

Your iPad probably managed to connect at some point but your PC did not; not atypical if their servers are being spotty.Funny, I tried Googling "AOL Mail Server Issues" and "AOL Not Connecting" as well as "AOL Outlook Sync Issues" and never got that. I presumed AOL wasn't "down" (so I didn't Google that) because iPad, T-Bird, and www.aol.com were all being Fonzie.

It hasn't been sporadic - the devices that will not connect will NOT connect. The ones that do, consistently do. (i.e., the WIndows Outlook as not synced at all today. The iPad and Windows Thunderbird ALWAYS connect.)

So I don't understand, but will be patient....

Thank you,
Have you tried other emails cervices other than AOL?
Possibly AOL may soon undergone a radical change. If that should happen, you will want to have an alternative email company.
Here is a quick list of  firms you never knewt:
https://adespresso.com/blog/5-best-email-tracking-services-know-when-your-email-has-been-opened/
But IMO, you should stick with the big guns:
Gmail
iCloud
Outlook
Yahoo
Why am I negative about AOL?  Lookl here:
http://www.theledger.com/news/20171104/gadget-daddy-aol-announces-big-changes
Quote

You know it has had a profound impact on America when Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg eulogizes it this way: “AOL Instant Messenger was a defining part of my childhood. As part of the first generation to grow up with the Internet, it helped me understand Internet communication intuitively and emotionally in a way that people just a few years older may have only considered intellectually.”
Facebook and other services contributed to the demise of AIM. As one AOL vice president said, the end has come because “the way in which we communicate with each other has profoundly changed.”

On my Windows 10 Home 64-bit system I have noticed an oddity where if earlier in my computer use for the day I copy/pasted something off the web such as a URL TEXT to save along with some technotes as a reference to where I was in a document, and later I go to copy paste an image to drop onto a different document, it wants to dump the text from earlier to the document as if the picture wasnt selected for copy.

Whats EVEN stranger is that its almost like there are 2 buffers for clipboard where one contains text and other contains the image I found out as for if I use the right-click paste after first doing the same for copy, I get text from earlier pasted. However if I use the hotkey of CTRL + V it pastes the image that I want to paste correctly to the document vs the text that I dont want.

Are there two different buffers between image and text capture where right-click paste doesnt want to function to paste images yet CTRL + V will, or is this some weird feature of Windows 10.

I thought initially it might be something weird with images from google images ( copy protections ), so I opened up mspaint and selected a picture to open of my own that doesnt have any protections and then cropped an area to copy and then went to do it via right-click paste and still text from earlier pastes to document. If I CTRL + V however the image portion that I copied then pastes.

Maybe I need to get back into the groove of using the CTRL + X,C,V but I'm quicker at the right click where one hand is needed vs two hands to pull off the CTRL + V function. I have only resorted to the hot key combination when right-click paste doesnt work as wanted such as now. But usually its other reasons why only the hot key works vs right-click. But in this situation its something to do with Windows 10 I'm thinking because I dont have any added snipping tools added etc... maybe I need to add a tool to get around this weird issue.  As far as I know, it's the user software, not the operating system, that places image data in the clipboard. Is it POSSIBLE that the program you're in when you press CTRL+C isn't properly copying images to the clipboard? Or does it work sometimes in that program, and other times doesn't?

Other users have had success using nircmd to copy an image file's data to the clipboard from the command line:

https://superuser.com/questions/372602/how-to-copy-picture-from-a-file-to-clipboard

But I'm not sure if that solution will work for you, if the image data is not already saved in a file.I have had the same issue, rather sporadically... I always presumed that it was because there was something about how that PARTICULAR image was embedded in that particular environment that made it un-clickable (whether you were right-clicking or left-clicking/Ctrl+C'ing), perhaps because of (c) issues or just coding. I know that doesn't help, but I never considered dual buffers...

On an almost completely unrelated note, my Android phone, if you paste an image in a text, automatically fires off the text to the recipient (withOUT waiting for me to hit Send) as soon as the image is pasted. So, in the opposite of the OP, if I *think* I'm pasting text into an SMS but have an image in my buffer, it will paste the picture - and then there is nothing I can do to stop it from getting sent! Thank goodness I'm not a representative from New York or a former Green Bay quarterback!You reference "A Document" and "The document" repeatedly but never mention the software.

The Clipboard can contain multiple different pieces of data. It's intended to allow a program to add different formats for data so that whatever program you paste can use the richest VERSION. For example copying text might include a richer version that has text formatting, as well as plain text. Programs are supposed to clear the clipboard before adding data but it's possible a program doesn't do that- if you are copying images it's not going to dump the various text formats, and only replace/change any image formats, and then when you paste the program will choose whatever format it finds first.As far as documents go, I have seen this happen with OpenOffice Writer, as well as when copy pasting stuff within a browser environment to a form. It would be easy to pin it to just one culprit if it was just one program or application that has this issue.

One of the most critical of mishaps was when I had a long password stored from earlier when copy pasting it from a notepad text document that holds passwords for websites in which I didnt want to type the complex alphanumeric with special character password and I was going to share with a friend on facebook an easter egg within a VIDEO game we were playing that I had a screenshot of, but didnt want to send the whole screenshot but just the item of interest as I selected a smaller section of an image that I opened in mspaint, selected to copy this via the right-click copy. Then went to facebook to right-click and paste and it wanted to drop my long password from being used earlier.  I tried this over again and same results 3 times, I then decided to use CTRL + V and it sent the image instead of the password to facebook messenger window.

I had sort of ignored it until most recent when a password almost went broadcasted out onto facebook because the buffer is doing this oddity.

Maybe I just need to avoid the right-click of copy/paste and force myself to using the hot key combinations for CTRL + C and CTRL + V ... but I dont quite get why there is a difference between using your mouse to copy/paste or using keystrokes to copy/paste. I thought its the same function, but this weirdness is pointed out that there are differences in whats called from a buffer of stacked items where you can have text and an image there at the same time and if you right-click and paste your getting old text from earlier and if you use CTRL +V your able to get the latest image to paste.

Windows 10 is the only system that does this. I dont have any special clipboard or screen capture programs installed, its a pretty bare bone install of 10 with just Steam added to it so that I can play my games on it. All other computers that I own that are Windows 7 or another OS other than 10 dont have where the buffer acts like 2 separate buffers. I've never seen a recall ability in a buffer before other than at command prompt you have use arrow keys to bring back a list of what was entered earlier but that has nothing to do with the buffer for copy/pasting. The minute print screen is used or copy is used on all other systems I have it wipes out that buffer space and places the newly captured information either a screenshot or text and when using either hot keys or right-click for copy/paste your getting the newest information pasted and not something from earlier.

I am going to mess around with this more tonight when I get out of work to see if I can discover anything else about this that points out why its acting this way.

Lastly the browser in use is Edge.. just in case that rings a bell for some feature in edge that I am not aware of as the interaction of the copy pasting is mainly from the web to local document or from local document to the web, BUT I have also seen this happen when working between two local environments where an area of an image was selected as cropped and right-click copy and then open the Open Office Writer document and right-click paste and its dumping text information from earlier instead of the latest image selection copied. However if I avoid the right-click copy/paste or right-click to copy but complete the pasting process using CTRL + V it will paste the content correctly that I want.

So I know how to get what I want pasted by using CTRL + V instead of Right-Click Paste, but its annoying that the mouse controlled Copy/Paste and Hot Key function to do the same thing should be doing the same thing I would think and it isnt.

I've had my PC since 2015. The machine has been great, but sluggish recently with things like Photoshop, so I decided to UPGRADE my RAM from 16GB to 32GB.

I've installed the new RAM and run into a lot of issues, listed below. I'm not really too familiar when it comes to the technical side of computing, so my knowledge is quite limited.

Issue:

• Installed two new 8GB sticks and getting "installed RAM: 24GB (16GB usable).
• All 4 sticks in my machine are 8GB each (should be a total of 32GB). So the Computer is cutting two of the sticks in half in terms of RAM.
• BIOS doesn't seem to have the OPTION to access the RAM/Memory area to make AMENDS (mentioned in trouble shooting).
• Can't update BIOS as it's already up to date (according to Gigabyte site with the last update being 2013).
• This was before trying new RAM. The computer randomly restarts. No notification from Windows before hand, it just shuts down and boots back up. (plugged directly into the mains rather then a multiplug).

• MOBOS: Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 (rev5.0)
• CURRENT RAM: Corsair DDR3 16GB (2x8GB)
• New RAM:Ballistix Tactical 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 UDIMM (recommended by Crucial scan)
• Processor: AMD FX-6350 Six core Processor 3.90Ghz
• OS: Windows 10 home 64bit

• I've tried sorting it out through boot (msconfig > boot > advanced options) and unchecked the "Maximum Memory" option.
• I've tried the new sticks by themselves without the old RAM and it's saying they are 8GB each (16GB in total).
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvI4ZIgTmoI&t=1s This is the BIOs Screen that comes up and I can't seem to find options mentioned in other sites on there (such as this one here
• I've been trying to install the Gigabyte UEFI as well, but can't seem to find out how to actually download or install it.
• I've tried the new RAM separately, and both sticks are telling me they are 8GB each, along with a combination of the old.
• They have also been positioned in the correct ports (new in 1 & 3, old in 2 & 4, as well as swapping them around).

Dictation again...
Here I am back on Windows XP again.
Even after several attempts my Windows 10 installation on this same computer is not stable, in fact it won't let me do anything for more than three or 4 min. before it acts up and locks my mouse and starts to do funny things.
But a backup a bit. For the past week I've been trying to get the updates for Windows 10 and at one point it got so bad I had to go back and install an older version of Windows 10. For some reason I was able to get it to work and it was working fine until Windows decided that I should get a newer version of Windows and it proceeded to upgrade me to 1709. Okay, it looked like it was going to work, but it did not.
Well, I then downloaded the 1709 version from Microsoft and put it onto a USB stick. Three times I've tried installing it from the USB stick and trying to repair that installs, but it just keeps getting worse.
This is too hard for me to understand. I have another machine with Windows 10 on it and I'll use it when there's some work I need to do on Windows 10 that I cannot do on Windows XP.
Meanwhile, I cannot do anymore work on this computer until I get some rest.
Could it possibly can be not just me that is having this much trouble with Windows up states?   
It could be caused by a number of things. A system that freezes up though I would verify that the RAM and Hard Drive is healthy. Memtest86 to test the RAM, and use crystaldiskinfo to look at the hard drive and make sure its not flagged yellow with an issue.

I had a laptop a ways back that would install and run Windows 2000 Professional with no problems. I upgraded to Windows XP and it started having issues freezing up. The issue ended up being that the hard drive was having issues and for some reason virtual memory was getting corrupt causing it to freeze up. I swapped the hard drive with another hard drive and installed XP clean to the laptop and problem was solved. *Back then I didnt check into S.M.A.R.T data and if a drive worked it worked and if it didnt it usually was something more severe than only acting up when virtual memory was in use.

Windows 10 is more memory intensive than XP and so I feel its probably something memory related or virtual memory related. If you have a spare healthy hard drive kicking around you could swap the drive out and build fresh to that and see if that fixes it if you are unable to get it to run long enough to look at S.M.A.R.T data for drive health.

I had a 3 year old quadcore system running Windows 10 64-bit on 4GB of RAM and the RAM is eaten up quickly by Edge. There were times when the 4GB was all used up and then it went into a memory compression phase where it starts to heavily rely on the hard drive and things started to lag. Increasing to 8GB RAM by adding another 4GB stick made things better.

If your running 32-bit Windows 10 because the CPU doesnt support 64-bit, or the system has a low RAM count, I havent messed with this version to know how well it manages 3GB or less RAM. I played with 32-bit Windows 10 back in beta on a Pentium 4 3.0Ghz HT with 2GB RAM but its performance wasnt the greatest and so I gave up on testing further with it.Thanks for the insight.
I have not tired 64 bit Windows 10 on this machine.
But It has been working with Windows 7 64 bit.
Th estrange behavior almost lookalike somebody want to ruin my day. 

I will download another copy of 1709.
I will  try it on a smaller drive.

 BTW, do you know of any list of MB5 hash for a Windows 10 ISO?

I get my Windows 10 ISO's direct from Microsoft. If your getting them elsewhere then this could be why your having troubles. I wouldnt trust any from anywhere else. Microsoft has a tool to download and then you launch that and then select which version you want and then it then downloads the version you want. There is a question of for this computer or another computer, and I CHOSE for a different computer.

If your system has a 64-bit CPU, then i would use the 64-bit version unless your system is running on 2GB or less RAM in which the 32-bit would probably make more sense.

Here is the tool: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10You may wanna post the system specs...are you SAYIN your runnin Win10 on an XP PC a/ a/
That may be why your havin issues...just sayin.Just now I got 32 bit version of 1709 up and running.
 Downloaded my favorite app from the Windows store. Works great.
It must bee the hard drive. This spare drive works good.
This install is just Windows 10 on a 80 GB drive
 Intel core 2 duo 2.99 GHz
RAM is 4 GB, two stick of 2 GB

EDIT: Forget to mention.
This version is British version of 1709,
 - not the USA version.   ok so 32-bit version so your getting use of 3GB of your 4GB then. * 1GB is not used unless you have integrated graphics tapping into that at the BIOS level skimming off the top maybe.To my knowledge, this system does not do shared memory.
Anyway, some kind of problem SHOWED up. Looks like the same thing.
So, another try and format a drive and let Windows 10 have  on it. It makes its own reserved partition.
At his moment, I am using MS Edge inside a new install of Windows 10  1709 on a Dell 755. The system reports 3.24 GB usable.

My fearis that sohme how somekindofbad thingcomesdownthe intgernet and ruins my install. I am goingtouse the scannernowandseewhathappens.

Instead of Ethernet,this time I am using wirfeless in tghe hopetghat adiffernt provider might  give me a better firewall. At this moment I am using T-Mobile andmy smartphone. It has a hotspopt.

The Ethernetis unpluged and I am not using the wirelessfromtherouter. I wantto make sure the issue is not from my local networkorf my ISP.

So FAR everythingisgood. But I have not logged into Microsoft with my creditials,  Maybe taht might give me a bit more protection.

Befaore this, ona earlier test,  when I try tolog in with my outlook account it stgarttsto hang up and stgalls. No sure why. Anyway, I am now "Frd Frog" and have no crfeditinals . Computerhop is the only place I have looged into.

Now Iwilltry to get an trusted applicationfrom the Windopws Store. But I am not sure ifitis sdafe to login.

First, I am goingto make a system check point ora recovery drive.
 
Four days later. Everything is find now.
Windows XP is working. Windows 10 is working.
All updates are in place.
The preset hard drive is now a tested Seagate unit from my spare parts treasure chest.

Looking back, this issue might have been due to a bad combination of hardware failure and windows updates at the same point in time. One of those things that are hard to duplicate as an experiment.

Now if the old drive is subject to testing, it will pass, That has already been done more than  once.Modern hard drives are designed to hide failures.
Reference:
https://www.extremetech.com/computing/170748-how-long-do-hard-drives-actually-live-for
Quote

For more than 30 years, the realm of computing has been intrinsically linked to the humble hard drive. It has been a complex and sometimes torturous relationship, but there’s no denying the huge role that hard drives have played in the growth and popularization of PCs, and more recently in the rapid expansion of online and cloud storage. Given our exceedingly heavy reliance on hard drives, it’s very, very weird that one piece of vital information still eludes us: How long does a hard drive last

I set a restore point last night before reinstalling Office.

I instantly started having issues with a site in IE that uses Java.

Can't imagine how the Office reinstall could have an impact, but after fiddling with a few things (including installing and running MalwareBytes), figured I'd roll BACK and see what happens.

Then the fun started.

After System Restore ran, it gave me an error message:
Quote

System Restore did not complete successfully. Your computer's system files and SETTINGS were not changed.

Details:

System Restore could not access a file. This is probably because an anti-virus program is running on the computer. Temporarily disable your antivirus program and retry System Restore.
An unspecified error occurred during System Restore. (0x800700005)

You can try System Restore again and choose a different restore point. If you continue to see this error, you can try an advanced recovery method.

• Disabled Malware Bytes and tried again
• Uninstalled Malware Bytes and tried again
• Tried an earlier Restore point
• Went into services.msc - Started "Volume Shadow Copy & Task Scheduler & Microsoft Shadow Copy PROVIDER Service" and set it to Automatic Startup and tried again (from Googling the error code)

Is thnis Surface Pro still in warranty?

Have you tried running System Restore from Advanced Startup?

Settings -> Update & Security -> Recovery -> Advanced Startup -> Restart Now.

At "Choose an Option", select Troubleshoot -> Advanced Options -> System Restore.

Longtime Microsoft reporter Paul Thurrott on Sunday published a memo that he says, was sent internally at Microsoft. The memo, which was leaked to Thurrott by an unidentified source, says Microsoft’s Surface Book and Surface Pro 4 suffered from “some quality issues” that have since been addressed in subsequent updates.

Have you tried running System Restore from Advanced Startup?

Settings -> Update & Security -> Recovery -> Advanced Startup -> Restart Now.

At "Choose an Option", select Troubleshoot -> Advanced Options -> System Restore.

Good evening.  Am having trouble getting my inbox headers unclipped.

As you can see from the attachment, many of the headers have been truncated, as the  wording on the right of the header is incomplete.

When I open  any one of the headers, I can see the complete header and the complete text in the message, so NO PROBLEM THERE.

However, it is annoying to open the inbox and find that there are clipped headers in the list of gmails received.

In my attempts to find a solution online I did not get anywhere, presumably because I wasn't making myself clear enough. 

Could you kindly help?

My usual thanks for your patience.

Joe Busuttil (Guzeppi)

P.S.  I am on Windows 10, I sue a laptop, and Gmail.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]GMAIL
• Log in to your Gmail account.
• Open the message you want to view headers for.
• Click the Down arrow next to the Reply button, LOCATED at the top right of the message pane.
• Select Show Original.

However i think you're already aware of this...
I found no option to make the Inbox headears expanded....shame on Google.I guess Google assume there is enough of the header info shown for the user to make a call on whether they want to open that email or delete it.
If you cant widen that column, what about decreasing the zoom factor.
Hit Ctrl and - a couple of times and see if you can LIVE with smaller text.  (Ctrl & + zooms in)Doesn't change amount of text shown...Ah, there you go then.
Typical Google. As i said...shame on them.Confusion here, I thinK? In email terms, those aren't "headers", they are "subject lines". Gmail doesn't know what font size your browser is set to. You will see more of the subject lines if you adjust the browser zoom level (hold down Ctrl key and press - and + keys, or hold down Ctrl key and roll the scroll wheel on your mouse backward or forward). Or you set the browser fonts size in its options.





Thank you again, not least for your prompt reply, and for letting me know the correct term for email "headers".

Your method worked well when I used the Ctrl button and the mouse wheel.

It would appear that I had been making the mistake of highlighting the Subject Lines when using the Ctrl button and the mouse.

If you don't mind, I am ATTACHING three images to CLARIFY my problem further.

Image 1  shows the Subject Lines shrunk to size and showing the whole text of every line. But how to enlarge the font size to make the wording more comfortable to read?

Image 2  shows what happens when I very slightly enlarge the lines by scrolling. (On the right of the line the wording is clipped).

Image 3 shows the reply you sent me, where the problem mentioned above does not OCCUR.  I can zoom in and out of this image without losing anything of the text.

Kind regards.

Joe Busuttil (Guzeppi)


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

As the title says suddenly I cant select text by either dragging or double-clicking it in  Poker software I USE (Bodog), it works FINE if I press "Num lk" the grey highlight turns blue and It works but that has to be done for every instance, meaning when the "bet box" goes away and re-appears as its my turn to act I cant select the text again.

Recently it didnt recognize the keyboard so I had to reinstall the drivers (It is a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate) and also contacted the poker company and they told me nobody has reported this and I feel the issue is on my side and keyboard/settings related.


anyone?I'll chime in to get the ball rolling, although I'm still not sure I understand the issue.

So highlighting text works fine in all other programs, but not in this poker software?
if so, then that would strongly suggest the issue is with that software.
bit it does work if you press (or hold down?) Num LOCK?

is this a desktop or laptop?
OS VERSION?The Application looks to be heavily skinned and probably re-implements basic Windows controls itself, making it IMO rather DIFFICULT to diagnose except by whomever wrote it.

The selected text highlighting gray for example isn't a Windows thing so it's hard to know what it means. It could mean the textbox doesn't have the focus but has a selection, for example. it could mean that $20 is higher than some other setting or maximum that is part of the game.

it seems like perhaps they have some special functionality based on Num Lock as well.

If you can select text correctly in other applications, then it is 100% on this app. Also, they lied when they said nobody had reported it, since you did!I tested it on my laptop and it has the same issue so yeah apparently they broke something in the last update and are probably lying bout no reports v.v, thanks anyway guys

I recently purchased an HP Stream laptop with 30G of hard drive storage space. This has quickly filled up and now there is no longer any space in order for Windows 10 updates to be implemented. What I don't understand however, is that hard drive space seems to have been eaten up by pretty much nothing but OS data! I have 0 pictures, 0 documents, 0 videos and 0 downloads on the hard drive. And only a handful of songs in my music folder. When I have run software to identify what is taking up all of the space on my hard drive, it states that Windows is occupying the most space at 23GB! This seems to be far too high? The remaining space is taken up by several small programs. I have inserted a 32GB mini SD card into my laptop to act as additional storage, however I can't move Windows or any other OS data onto this. It doesn't seem to recognise the SD card as an additional drive. When I have attempted to remove Windows incase that is the problem, I am informed that there is insufficient space to do so as it temporarily requires approx. 5GB to do so. As a result, I am stuck with a laptop which has only 232mb of storage left on the hard drive and no apparent way to increase this or remedy it. Grateful for any assistance that you can provide! Thank youmy Windows folder (Win10) takes up 25.5GB's, so your 23GB is about right.
the the 3 Program Files folders add to 10.5GB.

so there's your 30GB blown without even thinking about anything personal let alone room to grow.

look into turning off or reducing your pagefile, hibernation file, Recycle Bin size, Restore Points allocation etc.
check you have no Windows.old folder, if so, remove it with the inbuilt cleanmgr program from an elevated command prompt.
get and run CCleaner from here; https://www.piriform.com/ccleaner/builds [/font]and see how much space it reclaims.

but in short, 30GB was NEVER going to cut it and you would have eventually been in this predicament at some time.Wheredid yhou get a HP Stream laptop withonly 30 GB of driv e space?

Anyway, you can get a 250 GB hard drive at a very low price.
Bestoption is to get a replacement drive and 'clone' you currrent drive.
Quote

Wheredid yhou get a HP Stream laptop withonly 30 GB of driv e space?

Thats what they ship with Geek...

And it may not accomodate a regular HDD.

Hello. I have been having this problem for about 3 months now, I already tried to fix it in the past without success, but right now IM determined to fix this no matter what.

My issue is that whenever i play a game(happens in almost all GAMES, mostly graphic heavy) and there is a loading screen, there is a big chance that my pc will shut down completely and turn itself back on.

I can replicate this with 100% efficiency by going into main menu in Rocket League, start searching for a match AND browse through the menu while its searching for a match. THATS a 100% reboot.
(Video of this as Video1)

This also means that it is definitely not caused by high temperatures, since i can replicate this right when i start PC.
I tried to do a stress test, my PC didnt crash during that.


I do not get any BSOD or Minidumps.

Event viewer lists this as Critical Error Event 41, Kernel-Power, Category 63

This NEVER happens to me while playing CSGO.


There are some things going on with my PC that MIGHT be connected so i will INCLUDE them:

Whenever i start my pc, windows boots normally, then all devices power out for a second and it boots for the second time (Video1, after reboot, 1:30)
  -->Weird thing is, if i UNPLUG my PC, plug it back and then start the PC, it boots normally.

PC is making a weird noise when booting up (sometimes when loading something) (Video3)




PC Specs:

CPU: AMD FX-6300
GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce GTX 660
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-78LMT-USB3
PSU: Corsair VS450
RAM: 1x8GB
Windows 10 x64

Video 1: https://youtu.be/BQIsKJLhQNs
Video 2: https://youtu.be/0jYae6NhIUs
sorry for potato quality..
Update(Potentional fix):

Hello, so i tried many things to fix this problem, including:

• Unpinning google chrome from taskbar
• Installing new version of ViaHD audio drivers
• Reinstalling chipset driver(same version)
• Lighty blowing into a random pile of dust in my pc
• Shutting the pc down while holding Shift key

I would expect the solution was one of the drivers you reinstalled. Cleaning  out the dust didn't hurt but you already eliminated overheating and typically that manifests as a BSOD of some description from an overheating card.

I removed some programs, but it didn't free up any space.  I'll add another disk when I get one but I'm confused by the report that there is 0 free space left on the disk (according to windows) and 50% left according to MiniTool.   My system seems to be working properly but I don't like that "0 Free" message.  The system has been rebooted several times and so far it seems to be working normally.   Next trick will be to add a bigger disk, but I would prefer to get an answer on the current setup.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]When did you last check the disk for errors?
Have you tried running Disk Cleanup on the drive?to:  strollin --  They want $50.00 for the product -- that's out of my price range - got a free product you'd like to recommend?
to:  Salmon Trout - I have run all my diskchecking programs - do you have one you would like to recommend?

I saw someone ELSE had a very similar problem - I might look a bit deeper, perhaps it's a problem with Windows 10 - maybe I should switch to another operating system. Quote from: DeckHazen on January 26, 2018, 02:10:45 PM

to:  Salmon Trout - I have run all my diskchecking programs - do you have one you would like to recommend?

to:  strollin --  They want $50.00 for the product -- that's out of my price range - got a free product you'd like to recommend?

I have TRIED restarting my laptop and changing the resolution but none of it works.What Make/Model and when did this all of a SUDDEN happen was there windows updates or you went to make a CHANGE to SOMETHING or added software or?

Some old PROGRAMS are 16 bit. Maybe you have one or two that you would like to use, but Windows will give you an error if you are using a 64 bit version of Windows. And it is not just Windows 10 64 bit, even older versions of Windowsd do not let you run an old 16 bit program.
Unless you really try hard. Very hard. 
See this  thread on  answers.microsoft.com
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-windows_install-winpc/is-it-possible-to-run-a-16-bit-program-on-windows/50497e46-707e-42b4-af7f-539037f5d0a0?auth=1
Quote

If you have a compatible version of Windows the application works with, see instructions how to setup a virtual machine.

1 question...why do you need to ? ?
Just curious.

I now have 2 machines running Windows 10 on my domestic LAN, and I sign in to both using my Microsoft account. I usually work from one of them, and if I need to administer the other one, I log in to it using RDP. I decided to have different theme and console background & foreground colours, at least partly so I don't get confused about which machine I am operating! Imagine my puzzlement when the settings I had made on one machine mysteriously appeared on the other and vice versa. I had skipped Windows 8 and didn't realize that if you sign in using your Microsoft account, all your Windows 10 machines will have certain settings (things like your desktop theme, browser settings, and passwords) synchronized provided that SYNC is enabled on each machine. (It is enabled by default). I wonder if anyone else has been surprised by this?
My only SURPRISE was that the sync occurs across different versions. When I originally changed Windows 10 to re-add coloured title bars via a tweaked theme FILE, I returned to my Windows 8.1 system to find that it had synced the theme file and said theme file didn't work so well on Windows 8.1.Hello trout, now you are able to use different themes on your machines having sync settings enable. However windows 10 has an universal toggle for the Sync your settings but also provides additional option like "theme", "password", "language preferences" ease of ACCESS and other windows settings. So simply Turn on the universal setting and disable the theme synchronization. You can also take help from here:-


How to Customize Sync Settings on Windows 10

My hard drive DIED in my homemade 5 year old desktop. So I gutted it went to frys and bought a asus board the matching amd processor 16 g of memory a 2 tb seagate hard drive and a new power supply.
I downloaded windows 10 on a flash drive and it installed fine. It asked for a password and I used the same one I always use. It made me type it twice to be sure. It wouldn't let me install avast so I turned it off and would get back to it later.

I restarted and it will not except my password. I tried every variation, capitals, no capitals, no password etc. So I want to just start over. How do I do this? I played with it for a long while and cant figure out how to delete windows and start over.

Also I worried that maybe I ended up with a bad processor as when I opened the box it had already been in satalled but decided to take the chance.

How do I proceed?  I'd return that CPU ASAP and demand an unopened replacement...

As to the Win 10 issue a quick phone call to MS support...Free will get you back up and running...tell them you had to replace the HDD.Thanks Patio for the help.
I took the cpu back and exchanged it for a brand new one. Now this is weird I have another problem. The computer will not start at all. I traded to my old power supply and the same thing. A couple of leds light on the board but that is it. I checked my WIRING and everything is plugged in. What would cause this? Couldnt be the cpu again could it?Was thermal paste applied proper ? ?....4/6 pin CPU power connected ? ?
What else did you change when you did the swap ? ?Yes the paste was already on the heatsink so you just push it on to the cpu ans LATCH it down. All the wires are connected the only thing I saw was the hd led cable had came loose and I reconnected that but everything else looks fine.
I seem to have bad luck buying parts at Frys.are all the front panel cables connected to their right spots on the mobo header?
when you press the power button, is that when the lights come on or are they on as soon as the power cable is connected?
do you hear HDD noises and see fans spin when you try to turn it on?

maybe a screen shot could shed some light?Yes I made sure all the cables are connected in the right spots. The leds are on as soon as you HIT power. One of them is at the cat 5 connection. When you try to start the system nothing happens at all. I am going to pull the board  and go back to frys and get a replacement. Not sure if I should get another cpu or not. I thought you got a new CPU....
When you installed the MBoard did you remember the standoffs ? ?
Also is this a new or used PSU ? ?...make and model # ?

My SYSTEM's mouse pad puts the system on SLEEP mode forcefully while TRYING to use it to scroll up/down and it just started four days ago.
Please i need help to fix it. Thanksare you referring to the laptop's touchpad?

have you tried uninstalling the current drivers and rebooting.
that should make Windows detect it as new hardware and reload the inbuilt drivers.
then if you want, DOWNLOAD the drivers from the touchpads website for full gesture customisations.Also travel to Device Manager...rite clik the touchpad select Properties...in the Advanced Tab uncheck "allow Win to turn this device off to save power"...

Dumbest Windows default setting EVER...

having either flickering green screen or black screen.only help is ctr+shift+win key+b.problem start occuring 2 weeks ago, since win10 fall creators update.tyvm for some advice






What is make/model of computer or if custom build the specs of it so we can see what you have for hardware?i5 6500
16gb ddr4 hyperx
asus gtx 1050
ssd samsung evo II
win 10 64 proOne thing you can try is remove ALL power to the system and remove and re-seat the vid CARD...
Has the PC been MOVED recently ? ?...how old is the card ? ?You may also wanna re-install the vid card drivers from the card manuf. site...i have seen Win 10 updates OVERRIDE vid drivers... Quote from: patio on January 20, 2018, 03:34:41 PM

One thing you can try is remove ALL power to the system and remove and re-seat the vid card...
Has the PC been moved recently ? ?...how old is the card ? ?

You may also wanna re-install the vid card drivers from the card manuf. site...i have seen Win 10 updates override vid drivers...

One thing you can try is remove ALL power to the system and remove and re-seat the vid card...

May as well do the RAM while yer in there...

Guess what? A relative gave me a Gateway SX2110G Desktop  to in good condition.

If has Windows 10 home 64 bit.

I have LET it do the updates.
Now I want do a factory reset. I want to do a clean installation of system using wherever thin they use for that.

I can not find anything that is self-evident. But it does have recovery partitions. I just don't know how to make it do recovery.

Anybody know anything about the Gateway SX2110G Desktop


From the Source...Thanks Patio, I will do that.
 If it fails you can order recovery media from them....or if you dont want the pre-installed junk just use the Media Creator Tool...  for a clean install of Win 10...
NOTE: If he registered Win 10 proper than no key needed...yer good to go.OK. Using the Gateway, I went to the Microsoft link.
I now have Windows 10 on a USB stick. It is 64 bit Home version.

Next I will try first the reset built-in on the Windows 10 gnome running on this Gateway. If that works, Will be good.
If that fails, then  I will have to use the USB stick.

Here it GOES.... KABOOM!    

OK. The gateway just now came back from the restore. So it did what it should.
Now it wants to get the updates. Apparently, a reset ruins the updates. But it still has the user and the user password. That seems to be reasonable.
It looks LIKE some apps will ha veto initialized again. Is that the way it works?

Yes...welcome to update heaven...if i were you i'd leave it RUN all nightOh? I thought twas done.  the ISO from MS gets you 16299.15, latest is .192 and from memory it can't update in one foul swoop, it goes to .129 (from memory) then starts them all again to go the final jump to .192 Quote from: Mark. on January 24, 2018, 10:00:13 PM

the ISO from MS gets you 16299.15, latest is .192 and from memory it can't update in one foul swoop, it goes to .129 (from memory) then starts them all again to go the final jump to .192

I am using Windows 10 Fall Creators UPDATE 1709. The USB 3.0 root hub and xtensible controller 3.0 0.96 microsoft doesn't SHOW up in device manager. Remains grey when I look for HIDDEN devices. Hence I can't use the ports. USB 2.0 starts. I do not have this problem before. Sometimes it showed up after few reboots but most of the time no.

I have updated the drivers in device manager but to no avail. In windows update there was nothing related to update either. I also TRIED other methods as suggested in the internet but failed also.

Thank youI moved your TOPIC...The FAQ section isnt for general questions...