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I have an HP 15.6" Laptop with Windows 10, DVD Player/Writer, Bluetooth/HDMI/Ethernet - 1TB Storage (15-db0031nr) that won't recognize Sony MDRXB950b1 extra base headphones. I tried contacting Sony and they said there's nothing wrong with the headphones. I bought a Bluetooth adapter and that didn't work. I tried uninstalling Bluetooth, STARTING and stopping Bluetooth services, using a different USB port, TURNING bluetooth on and off, ENABLING Bluetooth, making PC discoverable, upating windows, tried event viewer and making sure Bluetooth support service worked. Nothing worked. I really need HELP!https://helpguide.sony.net/mdr/xb950b1/v1/en/contents/TP0001176166.html

Can you pair any other device? If yes, the procedure with sony is problematic, if no, bluetooth on your laptop acts strange Quote from: ngc2392 on January 25, 2022, 10:42:51 AM

https://helpguide.sony.net/mdr/xb950b1/v1/en/contents/TP0001176166.html

Can you pair any other device? If yes, the procedure with sony is problematic, if no, bluetooth on your laptop acts strange

Ok, here's what's happening.  When I hover my mouse over any bar, the bar moves as though I were scrolling the mouse wheel down.  This includes volume bars, start menu, settings menus for windows, the volume tab on YOUTUBE VIDEOS, but strangely it doesn't automatically scroll me up and down on WEBSITES.  When I RIGHT click, it flickers out as though something interrupted the right-click menu. 
To be clear, I have replaced both the mouse and the KEYBOARD to see if it was a hardware issue and changing out mouse and keyboard individually or together did nothing.  Same issue.

Any ideas as to what's going on?

Windows 10 Home
AMD Ryzen 3 3100 4 Core ProcessorI apologize, I was incorrect.  It does automatically scroll on webpages, it scrolls left to right.  I didn't notice because not all websites have a left-to-right scroll bar.

The COMPUTER crashed twice and had an error saying it was a graphic PROBLEM. So i went to amd's website and downloaded their automatic driver searcher and sure enough there were DRIVERS to be downloaded. So I downloaded them and got into a restart loop. I then tried reinstallling windows 10 but when i did that everytime i got to my motherboard's splash screen it would freeze. Now my I have updated my bios, unplugged ram and hard DRIVES to see if they were the problem but still have no luck. When I TRY to boot off the hard drive that has windows 10 on it, it freezes too. Please help.Well, you don't have much options really 
I would go to bios and restore it to default settings. And then try booting up. Because the simptoms suggests something is wrong with bios...
If you reinstalled Windows then ALL drivers especially MBoard need to be reinstalled...

Good morning,

I recently purchased a refurbished dell pc.   At first everything loaded fine and was going through the steps to set it up but couldn’t get internet as it was having errors with NETWORK adaptors.   While trying to troublshoot that via following online advice and help pages it did a restart and now will not load.  It comes up with error 0xc0000225.   Trying to troubleshoot that and it seems the only way to fix it is by having the windows 10 software disk (which I don’t have). Any other advice on a fix besides BUYING a new windows 10 software?

ThanksWhen you TRY to start your computer, you'll notice this error code. It's displayed by Windows with a message that says "Your PC needs to be fixed" and some other useless information. There has been an unanticipated error. It may also state that a required device isn't connected or accessible.

When Windows can't find the correct system files for booting, it displays this error. Boot Configuration Data, or BCD, is the name given to this crucial information. When you turn on your computer, BCD instructs Windows on how to properly boot.If you have laptop with installed system (windows 7, 8 or upgraded from previous ones) you don't NEED to buy another windows. Just download it from ms site (look for media update tool) and then create bootable usb or dvd.
And, I would also check for disk errors (hard drive or ssd) and MEMTEST

Hi!

I want to tweak Windows 10 File Explorer.
Exactly:
1.
How to open last closed window content (directory) when I CLICK on Explorer icon/shortcut or execute it.
We all know that always is by selection opened Quick Access or This Computer.
2.
How to hide or Show directory and quick access links tree?
3.
File Explorer has hidden UWP version - how to cut or copy and paste in it?

Please don't recommend me Explorer alterntives, I want to apply it directly to Windows 10 File Explorer.

Thank you for help, SUGGESTIONS or reply.
Miro Quote

Please don't recommend me Explorer alterntives, I want to apply it directly to Windows 10 File Explorer.

How to open last closed window content (directory) when I click on Explorer icon/shortcut or execute it.

2.How to hide or Show directory and quick access links tree?

3.File Explorer has hidden UWP version - how to cut or copy and paste in it?

Please don't recommend me Explorer alterntives, I want to apply it directly to Windows 10 File Explorer.

My computer update history shows this update INSTALLED successfully on 2/13/18.  However, it also shows that the same update requires a restart to finish.  Every night the computer restarts, attempts to install the update, fails and then removes the update (see attached). 

MB: ASRock X370 Tachi
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800X
Memory: G.Skill TridfentZ
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Gaming
Storage: Samsung 960 Pro 512 GB PCIe NVMe M.2


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]You can manually remove the failed updates and run Windows Update again. PITA, but this has worked for me.

You can also try the Windows Update Troubleshooter, which I've had mixed results with, depending on the situation: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4027322/windows-update-troubleshooterI've gone ahead and uninstalled the update and blocked the update from installing in the future.  I'm going to wait for the next update and see how it performs.  Thanks.

Quote from: xkexk8 on March 01, 2018, 08:20:15 PM

I've gone ahead and uninstalled the update and blocked the update from installing in the future.  I'm going to wait for the next update and see how it performs.  Thanks.

Having same problem. How did you block future attempts to install?

Ran MS troubleshooter which identified and corrected several problems. Restarted but problem updates still did not install. Ran troubleshooter again. It took much longer, identified and corrected more problems but said there were configuration errors which could not be fixed. Did a restart anyway and got same result - problem updates did not install. Later in the day I had a message from MS saying updates were available to install. Did a restart and it took a long time (30-45 minutes with several restarts) to install updates. Turns out it was the big 1803 installation.everything installed successfully including Adobe flash. Looks like whatever problem(s) I had preventing updates were corrected with 1803.

Hello I TRIED everything to update to KB4103721 with no problems but when I FINISH the installation and RESTART my COMPUTER my keyboard and mouse stops working in Windows but I can USE it in BIOS so everytime I tried it I had to use system restore. Does somebody know how to fix this because I have no idea anymore and I want to have the newest version.

Hello!

My brothers laptop (about 5 years old) that  is running Windows 10 started freezing all the time recently. It is an Acer Aspire v7-582PG with a Intel Core i5-4210U 1.7GHz, 8GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM, GeForce GTX 850M and a 1TB HDD and a small SSD as cache.

It sometimes freezes just on the desktop but it usually freezes every time we try to start any application, but it freezes to a point where the mouse MOVES but you can't click anything and pressing CTRL+ALT+DEL doesn't do anything.

I went through it and made multiple tests. So far I've done SFC Scan which found and fixed corrupt files, DISM Restore Health which didn't find anything, MemTest86 which found no errors and I deleted all temp files etc using the Disc Cleanup tool. I also ran the Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool which resulted in that the laptop shut down at about 6%. I tried that twice but I got the same result both times. During MemTest86 the CPU goes to about 90C.
 
That made me think it was an overheating issue so I ran Prime95 and it got to 95C and started throttling, but it never shut off during the 2 hours I let it run. One thing I can mention is that the fan has been very NOISY lately but during the torture test even when throttling it didn't go below 2GHz clock speed.
I also checked CrystalDiscInfo which said that the drives are healthy.

At this point the only thing that came to mind was to try to repair Windows which I did using the one that keeps personal DATA but that didn't HELP either. My brother would prefer not to do a complete reinstall and I'm out of ideas at this point.

Do anyone here have any recommendations of what I could do next to pinpoint the hardware/software problem as well as the component if it's hardware related?

Thanks in advance!the age of the laptop and the fact you found corrupted system files on it could indicate a failing/faulty hard drive.
dig out the SMART values will help verify that (although they in themselves are no absolute verification).and run a chkdsk c: /r as well.
also, it sounds like you can't 100% rule out some sort of infection/gremlin.
with the hours you have already spent, and the potential of hours remaining, and no guarantee you are going to fix it, if it was mine, I would be backing up my personal data and biting the bullet and doing a fresh install.
it's the only way you know the system (and any gremlins) are not part of the problem.
then from that clean slate, restore your data, reload your printers, Office, emails etc (yep, a PAIN I know) and hopefully, if the drive is faulty, all the activity will highlight any short comings.

you're still up for a couple of hours work, but the theory is you have eliminated a couple of possibilities.

Quote

with the hours you have already spent, and the potential of hours remaining, and no guarantee you are going to fix it, if it was mine, I would be backing up my personal data and biting the bullet and doing a fresh install.

Hi all,

In order to make my pc more secure I created a new Admin account, then I changed mine from Admin to Standard.
However, now my Taskbar will crash and restart every time I click any of its icons, except for the Sound control. The Sticky note I have showing, crashes along with it, and a second later both reload.
Fortunately it's not affecting other apps so far, it seems. Except for Files Manager. It crashes too.
Just in case, I changed my account back to Admin. But the problem persists

What should be my NEXT step?

Thanks guysNever mind.
This all may have had something to do with the fact that I had Parental Controls on the PREVIOUS Admin account (my own), but then I demoted myself to Standard (after I had created the new Admin). Also at that time I still had to dismantle the family I had SET up, to make the ACCOUNTS belong the family of the new Admin account.
Also, it helped to just stop the People button from showing.
Anyway, things are good now.Glad you got is solved --
But sorry to HEAR it broke up your family.

I restored my pc with the system recovery media and nothing changed, I still have the same problem.

(I ended up just doing a restore point, and it worked, sorry for inconvenience)

Hello! So I just got a new keyboard and I decided to update my drivers with driver boost while I was doing new stuff on my pc. After it INSTALLED my 5 drivers that were out of date I RESTARTED and now I am having bad mouse lag! I cannot remember what all it installed but I remember 2 - realtek sound and amd graphics drivers. I have tried most of this stuff, EXCEPT the LAN thing, on this site: https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/solved-mouse-pointer-lags-or-freezes-in-windows-10/ - it seems like it would be my RX 580 graphics driver to me, I have the latest driver for it now, I think thats what broke my pc, how can I install my previous one? I have tried rollback in windows 10.

I hope I can get some help about this as it has rendered my new pc practically unusable.

Thanks in advance!

my pc: CPU - intel 8700k
graphics card - amd RX 580
Running windows 10 Driver boost is garbage... un-install it.
Then go to Device manager and uninstall the keyboard rite clikkin it...Then re-boot.

If the keyboard came with a driver disc install them and re-boot. Quote from: patio on May 29, 2018, 05:09:17 PM

Driver boost is garbage... un-install it.

maximum path length in  windows 10 I've been EXPERIENCING this error and its irritating . how can I fix this one? I need it asap . Thank you Make a junction point (hard link) or a SYMBOLIC link that points to a location sufficently deep in the offending long path.

Or GO back to file management basics...
To me it makes ZERO sense to have files nested 5 or 6 layers deep...If you are on WIN10 Anniversary Update you can also enable longer paths by editing the registry.

in Key HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\FileSystem there is a LongPathEnabled Setting. You can turn this on.

However this will not work for all programs, only those which declare they can work with it. Which should include the programs included with Windows, but other programs might not be able to.

That all said this seems like a "Setup" for that spam for "*SPAM*". Quote

That all said this seems like a "Setup" for that spam for "*SPAM*".

Hi there,

Unfortunately, my windows hard drive has stopped working so I am going to add a new ssd with Windows on it..... However I have 2 HDDs mirror RAID using the Windows setup within the PC, is it easy to reconfigure everything without the RAID drives being formatted with the new windows install?Ok i have installed the new OS onto the new ssd when into disk MANAGEMENT and  both of the mirror hard drives said Disk Management Foreign.

if i right click it says Import Foreign Disks or convert to Basic disk. Which one should i click to keep the data on there?
FIRST question is.... do you have a backup of the data on these drives elsewhere before moving forward?

I have brought RAID sets forward before and its not ALWAYS a 100% guarantee that everything works. Converting to Basic would wipe out your data last I knew, and if Importing Foreign goes wrong it can foul up the data on those drives.

The best MIGRATION would be to have your data saved elsewhere than this drive pair, then build up the RAID fresh wiping them clean and having a fresh RAID set that was built on the same system that is using it with the same OS build etc. Then copy your important data back to the RAID drive pair and then you wont lose data.

If you dont have an external hard drive and need to move forward and willing to accept that you could foul up and lose your data then, Importing Foreign is the way to go. But I'd really get the data off those drives onto another drive thats not involved with the RAID first. This might require you to boot the system off of Linux such as MINT or Ubuntu off a Live Linux environment using a DVD-R or bootable USB stick and connect an external hard drive and then copy the entire contents of the drives to that. With a mirror you should have 2 drives that are exact for data so only 1 drive is needed to get your data to the external and the other can set off to the side. Definitely check to make sure all data gets copied to external though before wiping the drives clean or bringing them forward as a Import Foreign if able to do so.

*Note: If your using encrypted drives, the Linux option wouldnt work unless you had supporting software to match the encryption to decrypt them.

Hi

Do you KNOW how the raid disks were originally set-up. Were they hardware raid (which is usually set up before windows starts).
Or software which requires Windows to have the raid support installed normally from the motherboard CD. 

If you are not sure you can use Reclaimme Raid recovery free from here  http://www.freeraidrecovery.com/
This will run from your current windows drive Mount the 2 Raid drives and tell you how they are set up.

I.E Raid 0 / software and will scan the drives and allow you to copy the contents to another drive.

If you want windows to see the drives, post the above information and the motherboard details and it should be easy to set the drives back up.

Without the above information using Disk manager is likely to convert the raid to a single volume and loose all your data.

Can I ACTIVATE Windows 7 online using the Windows 10 ACTIVATION key?No.
You should have a key just for Windows 7.
 How did you get the Windows 7 install program?
Normally product key(s) are found on the case of the computer, or inside the box of a retail package. They look like this:
same answer as your post on Bleeping Computer.

Yes - if this Windows 10 key was the same key USED to upgrade from Windows 7.

I already posted a thing abut the Windows 10 April update.
This thread is specific to my trouble with Windows 10 update on my Dell OptiPlex 755 Desktop,,which I have used for many r months after buying it on eBay.

This Dell 755 Optiplex desktop is the third Dell I have owned in the 745 and  755 group. Presently I also have a Dell 745 SFF as an emergency backup, but I do not use it because it is not able to accept any PCI cards I hive. But that is  mot relevant here. What I am trying to say is that I have experience with these OptiPlex  desktops. My point is that I have INSTALLED Windows 10 many times  learn more about Windows 10.

Now about the current issue. I have tested over again my hardware. There is a known issue, but it does not relate to the problem. Windows  XP works fine, even with one hardware device not working right.  With early version of Windows 10, the 1709, it works find and does not report any hardware device not working.

Here is what I have DONE this past week. Iremovedthe500 GB drive from the 755 and found an older 40 GB SATA drive in my junk box spare parts bin. That 40 GB had good copy of 1709. So I let it update Windows 10. Well, it apparently did not update to the latest, but it works just fine. Time to try something else. 

I make a new DVD with the 17127 Windows. I got the ISO from Microsoft.  I have an account, so i ti is  legal and has a digital license. So far, so good. I have an 89 GB drive in the parts bin. I let 17127 use the whole things. To get to the point, it installs well. OK, now for the updates. Guess  what?  It has trouble. 

The trouble is with the login. It hangs after I give my PIN. The little circle keeps spinning and then just STOPS. But the system is not frozen. Finally, after a re boot and another attempt at login I somehow get into the desktop.

Are yu following me? I had a working Windows 10 more that once or twice on this 755. But now it STALLS on the login and after I bang on some keys it gives me the desktop. So I recall something I had observed before. I need a local user account. So I make one, no password required. Viola! Went I start up the 755 and select the local user with no password, it pops right into the desktop with no hesitation a tall. All I have to do is select the local use account, then just enter a blank  password. I mean no password,just hit enter. 

So how can that work?  Anytime administrator permission is needed,  Windows 10 asks for my password, the password for my registered Microsoft account. An it works.

I can see there are many new features in Windows 10. So it must be the April Update. But it does not say it is the April update.  Maybe it is too embarrassed to admit it.   

Again, this  is on my Dell Optiplex 55 with the 43 bit 17127 running after update yesterday. I have yet to install any software until I am sure the Windows 10 update is good. So far it  worlds just fine. But I dare not login with my Microsoft account. 
Comments?Until you give up the ghost on those old aging HDD's i'm done with this issue...

You are simply repeating the process you went thru for 4 days a month ago...which is the definition of insanity...keep doin somethin over and over expecting different results...

Good Luck.The way for an idiot to learn is to try again.   
keep doin somethin over and over expecting different results...
Which is how I found the issue was my Microsoft account, not the hardware.

Now I can turn on my old 755, let it come up with the local user selected and I jut hit enter and I am in. The trick was to have a local user account.

For what it is worth, this  Windows 10 update flow has been documented.
Search for:
Windows 10 hangs at login screen after latest update
Most recent decent answer:
https://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/stuck-loading-screen-fall-creators-update.html
Quote

After updating to the Windows 10 Fall Creators Update, numerous users get trapped in the "Windows 10 stuck on loading screen" issue. The Windows 10 flashing screen always shows up the blue Microsoft logo for a long time with the spinning dots below. Users can't boot into the login screen until they force their laptop or desktop to reboot.

In tghe harware tghing, there is no indication of a b ad driver. I am using the direvers taht Widows 10 installed for this PC.

Fix for system freeze on systems configured with multiple monitors and Windows 10 Spring Creators Update
On systems configured with multiple monitors and the Windows 10 Spring Creators Update, when launching ZoomText 2018 or Fusion 2018 the system would freeze with black screen. This problem has been fixed.

It was a disaster for me. What about you?
(I herein call it the W10AU.)
Just now, LATE in May, some publications are saying bad things about the W10AU
Here a re a few of the recent comments:

The Register
About to install the W10AU? You might want to wait ...
https://www.theregister.co.uk/2018/05/22/windows_10_update_woes_redux/

ZDNet
Microsoft steps up its business push with its W10AU with hololens
https://www.zdnet.com/article/microsoft-steps-up-its-business-push-with-its-windows-10-2018-update-for-the-hololens/

TechRadar
The W10AU is causing problems with some Microsoft Surface devices
https://www.techradar.com/news/windows-10-april-2018-update-is-causing-problems-with-some-microsoft-surface-devices
Comments?Every time some portion of the userbase encounters issues with an upgrade or update, the tech press comes out of the woodwork with articles about how terrible it is. And those articles are rife with comments about how "it was never like this with Windows Current-X! where Current-X is some previous release.

But that's nonsense; because it was always like this. Some small portion of the userbase is unfortunately going to be afflicted by rare issues. It's been the case pretty much with every version of Windows ever released.
I've so far done the v1803 upgrade on 4 PC's in the house - no worries at all.
went to do it on mine only to discover my Intel SSD 600p has a known bug and if the upgrade had of worked there are chances of the system not restarting.
so I even liked the hardware check Window 10 upgrade does first saving me all that potential bother.both Intel and MS are working on a fix for the known issue.
couldn't ask for more than that.
I also installed the update on three desktops and two laptops at home with no issues at all. As is the case after every such update, I had to reset the system environment variables for temp folder locations to my personal preference, delete old system files, optimize the drives, and create images of the system partitions (pre and post installation). Because of the process I choose to follow the upgrades took several hours each, but as I said above, no issues encountered.It should be noted GEEK was havin issues with Win 10 waay before the update was rolled out...just sayin...
Absolutely no problems whatsoever, just like I never had any problems upgrading to Windows 98, 98SE, 2000, XP, Vista, 7, (skipped , 8.1 and 10 (all updates). My old Dell D-830 laptop has, since 2015, taken Windows 10 12 Insider Builds so far with no problems. As for Geek, a Windows update won't fix your flaky hardware.


Quote from: patio on May 23, 2018, 06:10:57 AM

It should be noted Geek was havin issues with Win 10 waay before the update was rolled out...just sayin...

I never had any problems upgrading to Windows 98, 98SE, 2000, XP, Vista, 7, (skipped , 8.1 and 10 (all updates).

The problem PC is my Dell 755, which I got refurbished on eBay .

Hi!

I'm using more than one Windows File Explorer replacements and I'm searching for any tabbed filemanager with built-in lite webbrowser. Something like Mailbird has INTEGRATED Chrome extension which opens links directly in mail client (I'm using it)...
I'm using also tabbed Explorer extension Clover which opens also control panel items in its window.
Exist any? Or if not - is possible to integrate e.g. Internet Explorer into File Explorer?
Also for me new was referring that Windows has built-in File Explorer as UWP application...

I know this is strange Q, but each word can help me and I'm thankful.
MiroHow much searching have you done? 
Try: Best Free Alternative File Explores.
Here is he Yahoo search:
Best Free Alternative File Explores.(Yahoo)
Lots of choices.
BTW: A web browser can also read the local machine. Look in the Google Play Store for a Chrome add-on. Most of them I know and no one has built-in webbrowser.
Only one is interesant in case of tabbed extension for Windows Explorer - QTtab - looks very like Clover, maybe even better, I'll try it.

When you're talking about GooglePlay - I'm not Android user and have no account associated.
I know that each webbrowser can read near everything about computer - simple PROGRAMMING can do it...

Really - no way with webbrowser?
Or possible integration?

I have no access to GooglePlay and I'm Windows user and programmer (maybe not so good programmer) and using Windows 10 on desktop and the same mobile version in phone.

I'm using currently:
Clover
XYplorer
Xplorer2
Q-Dir
Tablacus
Explorer++
and Cubic Explorer...

My best is XYplorer but has not integrated webbrowser....

But thank you for help.
MiroRe Clover Chinese app on another forum...

Quote

Have an Admin friend that was just looking at setting this up in his environment, and after doing some basic testing he is removing it from his network.  The Clover installer .exe was infected with malware and that was just the beginning.....  The software also exhibited behavior of "phone home" "telemetry" info gathering about the network, and the system running the software.  He worked with the software provider to fix the problems he found and was met with friendly techs at first, but it quickly changed to the old "hold while i transfer you to the correct team" and then being disconnected.

I would AVOID this "HELPER app" like it had the chicken Pox  or Mumps or some nasty UN treatable STD

It is a add-into Chrome.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/local-explorer-file-manag/eokekhgpaakbkfkmjjcbffibkencdfkl?hl=en
It is a Windows compatible add-in.

When I change the FONT size in WORD 2016,  the cursor or the font number pops up on the left of the new size chosen, thus not allowing me to type my text in WORD.

I keep getting the warning "This is not a valid number".

This is FRUSTRATING.   

Can anyone help, please?

Thanks in advance from an elderly pensioner.

Joe BusuttilDo you actually type in a number or do you select from the drop-down menu?I select from the DROPDOWN menu.

JoeDid you TRY typing in a number?After picking a font/font size, you have to CLICK back in your document so that it receives what you type.

I know these questions are dumb and dumber but with my present state of mind, everything seems shaky. I'm WANTING to make a recovery disk/flash drive for the new computer recently purchased. I looked up how to make a recovery drive but didn't see the need to because someone has already filled up drive "D" with one. All I really need to do is just copy it right?

While we're at it, I'm getting ready to run a recovery flash drive on a computer with a new hard drive. My question is, there seem to be several folders on the recovery flash drive, is there a particular one you select or do you open them all in sequence?You need to use the utility that came with the computer to create that. Its not as simple as copying contents to a USB stick. Some computers only allow you to create this recovery media once, and after its created you cant create a new set. If you blew your 1 chance at making recovery media then I would contact the MANUFACTURER of the computer to order a recovery set. If its covered by warranty they might provide this for you for free under warranty terms however most will charge you for this.Not 100% SURE what you are chasing, but here are some options.
First up, the partition (sounds like D:\ in your case) on a drive called Recovery is usually made by Windows and used to repair Windows.
Although some manufactures create one too.  But the bottom line is there is nothing in it for you to play with.  Leave it alone.
As to creating your own recovery media, I would personally use a free PROGRAM called Macrium Reflect.  It'll do a system image of the PC for you that can then be used if the need arises.But as you must have Windows 10 on the new system, it has an inbuilt utility for also creating a recovery drive.Simply type recovery into the search bar and you'll see an app called Recovery Drive.  It requires at least a 16GB USB stick.
Thanks Mark and Dave, I followed the procedure on the Windows 10 computer and it finished a little while ago. It's been a while since I made one for the Windows 8 computer and time will tell if I did it right. Should you use CD or DVD as a recovery disk?
To make your own recovery disk for HP laptop running windows 7 should you use CD or DVD as a recovery disk?

What is file size? Will it fit on one disk or would you need two or three DISKS or more? How big is file size?

Also should you use R disk or RW disk? Use Macrium Reflect-Free to perform image backups. Quote

Also should you use R disk or RW disk?

Hey guys. I have a problem that I hope that you can me with. Please help. Thank you in advance.

My sister is having a problem with her computer being really slow. First thing I did was check to make sure that her security updates and realize that her computer had not been updated since 9/17. I checked to see if the automatic updates were on and it was but for some reason it stop updating. I tried to run the updates but it failed. I tried running the Windows Assistant several times. It has gotten as much as 97% installed and stopped.

I thought it MIGHT be a virus so I ran all kind of anti-virus software; Norton Anti-Virus, Norton Eraser, ESET, Malwarebytes and Spybot.


I found these instruction on Microsoft and tried them.

Method 2: Run the DISM Tool.
If the issue PERSISTS, I would have you run the DISM tool to check the system health and will try to restore the files.
Click on 'Start'.
Enter 'Command prompt' in the Search box.   
In the list of results, swipe down on or right-click Command prompt, and then tap or click 'Run as ADMINISTRATOR'. 
In the Administrator: Command Prompt window, TYPE the following commands. Press the Enter key after each command:
DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Scanhealth 
DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth
To close the Administrator: Command Prompt window, type Exit, and then press Enter.
Note: The tool might take 15-20 minutes to finish running, so please do not cancel it.

I tried the following. The scanhealth said it was repairable but the restore health froze and wouldn't complete.

Please see the SCREENSHOT, I tried to manually reset the Windows Updates Components and these are the errors I got. I'm not sure whether is wuauserv is stopping properly and I can't rename the softwaredistribution. Any advice or help?

Thanks again in advance.






 


Just a remote possibility: Do you have room on the hard drive for the updates?Yes, plenty. Thanks!

received this error message when sending mail: "There is no e-mail program associated to PERFORM the required action. Please install an e-mail program or, if one already existed, create an association in the Default Program Control Panel.have you gone to Control Panel, Default Programs and checked you have an associated program tied to your email software?
what is your email software?, OS?
what has happened between it WORK normally and this new error message? any software/Windows updates?
hi Mark,

I did, I put AOL (my e-mail server) as my default e-mail. STILL can not forward files.Yes, I did  have a Windows update.I'm not aware that you can specify a browser as your default email, it wants a PC based program.unless you have installed some sort of AOL 'man in the middle' software.
when exactly do you get your message, when you in are in your email system and try to send something you have just written or when you right click on a FILE, say a picture, and try to 'send to email recipient', or click a mailto:: link or something like that outside of an email program?
are you Windows 10?

Hey guys, really hoping one of you can help me with this issue, since I've tried everything and can't seem to find a solution.

I wanna clarify, I run an Asus ROG G55 laptop that had no issues up to now whatsoever.

Now, yesterday windows asked me to apply a major update, ran it while I was sleeping, turned my laptop on in the morning only for him to start asking me what language I want my keyboard in (not a good start), then not being able to run windows, only through menu with second latest "OS version" I make it to the user password menu (where my pic is still showing) but once I enter the pass it goes through the entire process of 5 minutes of preparing APPS etc..you know the DEAL, after which it loads me a blank black desktop with only recycle bin with nothing running. Can't run explorer without getting the error "an attempt was MADE to reference a token that does not exist" along with some shell error, something similar to the error it shows me when entering at first. Nothing shows up and I don't know what to do, I'm desperate, and from searching for OS files through the startup menu I know everything is still there, and I'd rather keep it that way. Anyone have a solution? I've tried launching cmd, which works, but none of the commands, either through the desktop or startup menu have fixed anything.

Thank you so much...Was it on A/C power or battery ? ?...which update ?The NEWEST update. The update is the culprit. Seeing as I'm checking forums, I know I'm apparently not the only person with this. The only solution unfortunately is RESETTING. This option wasn't available for me however, because I had to first manually through command prompt, reset the C: drive as primary. Then, the reset option became available again, and was able to fix it...See Here...

You may want to sign up there...one of the best Win  10 resources out there with great Tutorials...

I recently purchase Windows 10 Pro to upgrade from Windows 10 Home.   During install I removed all existing partitions to start new. I do NOT recall it asking for a new password for built in Administrator.  I don't recall that is force me to put a password on the ONE user that would have admin rights. (It's my wife's COMPUTER.)  She at the time opted to just use a PIN to login. 

Now she doesn't want to use that either but to take it off she is prompted for her user password & GUESS what she doesn't remember it if she did have one.  I have found many sites hint to do a reset of her computer not looking forward to doing that.  Another site has a free trial but then they want to charge you to use their software.  Not crazy about paying for that.  I recall using a boot-able media (Linux) and then running some commands to get it changed.  This peeks my curiosity and sound like something I'd like to try.

Does ANYONE have any pointers on how I can get her computer straightened out?  Properly with a local administrator account known password that I could then hide once her account is setup the way she wants it.

Is it possible to have a Windows 10 Pro without being forced to use a password / pin or does my wife need to get use to it?

Thanks In ADVANCE 4 the HELP!
SWUBYes you can have Win10 (any version) not require a password to log on with.
We (this forum) do not give out hints on how to bypass Windows login security for obvious reasons.
My RECOMMANDATION would be to reload Windows again (sucks I know).
Make sure you have all your data backed up, but since you can’t log on anyway, this probably isn’t an option or necessary.We where able to login with her PIN but to remove the PIN you needed the PASSWORD.  She was going to keep using the PIN.  Found a solution.  Clean re-install is best suggestion...

Care to SHARE your solution ? ?I found this solution & followed it carefully.
https://pureinfotech.com/how-reset-windows-10-forgotten-password-regain-access-computer/

In another thread I was to I  ought to fix my damaged user profile. I am no sure of theright wayh to do that. Some links seemto be confusing.
https://windowsreport.com/corrupt-user-profile-windows-10/
https://www.techbout.com/fix-corrupt-user-profile-windows-10-9139/
Is either right?Oristhere a better way? I have not yet tried anything other tahtn create a new user account. The damaged account is still in the system and I can USE it, but it seemsto be missing some parts.

I do not want to edit the registry. Please don't; tell me to edit the registry.
Any recommendations please. have yet to experience this in Win10, but for all previous OS's the THEORY was to;

get into Windows any way possible, either Safe MODE or from the temporary profile it creates for you.
then make a new User Account.
reboot normally logging into the new profile.
bring up File Explorer and browse to the old profile and copy your folders to the new profile.

where in that list are you getting hang up on?
Quote from: Mark. on May 15, 2018, 01:08:03 AM

have yet to experience this in Win10, but for all previous OS's the theory was to;
...
where in that list are you getting hang up on?

Hello,

I am experiencing a quite long time to boot into Windows 10 on my Samsung SSD and I am frustrated trying to solve the issue as windows takes about 2 ~ 3 mins to log into Windows. I tried many things that did not work such as deleting drivers or software (Nvidia, steam, Samsung magician..etc), stopping services and startup progs, virus check with Malwarebytes but still no solution.

I have ANOTHER version of Win 10 running on the other OCZ SSD and that version boots right away without any problems. But on the Samsung it just does not.

I have come  across a post here https://superuser.com/questions/594625/how-can-i-analyze-performance-issues-before-during-the-logon-process and tried to figure out what process is taking so long to load and it seems that they are so many! I am not sure if I am reading the analysis correctly or how to proceed on solving the issue since most are system processes . Any help is appreciated.

System specs:

Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2 // Amd FX-8350 black ed // Asus Geforce GTX 1070 Strix OC 8GB // Kingston hyper fury 16G 1866Hz // Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB // OCZ Trion 150 480 GB // Windows 10 PRO version 1709 Build 16299.431 I'd run crystaldiskinfo on the SSD to see if it has any SMART warnings. Some SSD's slow as they start to fade out to FAILURE and if this was a heavily used drive it could be slowing itself. Other thing to do would be to see if there is a firmware update for the SSD's drive controller. But before running this backup your data to another drive so that if the drive is formatted in the process you don't lose your data.I have ran the test and it seems there are no issues. I am not experiencing problems inside windows actually as programs and games run fine even the games installed on the SSD. The issue is only what Windows is doing before it boots into desktop. I have also checked for firmware update using Samsung magician and it is all up to date.Is Fast Startup enabled?

https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/speed-windows-10-boot-timeThat is CrystalDiskMark Not CrystalDiskInfo. Quote from: DaveLembke on May 11, 2018, 12:20:44 PM

Is Fast Startup enabled?

https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/speed-windows-10-boot-time

That is CrystalDiskMark Not CrystalDiskInfo.

At this point knowing its narrowed down to just that Samsung SSD and other SSD in system is fast, I'd say try a reinstall of OS clean to Samsung SSD that's acting slow and if that doesn't fix it then avoid using that drive as a boot drive and be careful not to use that drive for important data storage if all of a sudden it fails to work completely.

It's not the drives...somethin is hangin/slowin down boot...

All proper drivers installed ? ?...check device manager.
Also list all external devices being used.

So I started getting these crashes about once a day out of nowhere by the time I come back to my computer recently. I tend to use my computer all day every day, and it runs completely fine during when I'm using it for gaming, video editing/rendering, and YouTube, no issues at all. But then, while I am sleeping or away for many hours (5-10 hours AFK), I guess something happens, and I come back to find that either there is a blue screen error, or the monitors have no display input, and I have to hit the reset button on the computer for it to work again.

I always leave the computer on, but not the monitors anymore. Last time I left the monitors on, I came back to a blue screen error, and I was worried it would burn in on the screen, so I started turning them off. But now, when I turn them on after I come back to the computer, they just have "no input" messages like they aren't plugged into the computer, and I can't get anything to work until I reset the computer.

I have the Ribbons screensaver that runs after 10 minutes, but it's always running fine when I look at it before going away. I don't have sleep mode enabled, and I don't have my computer lock itself. I would hate re-entering the PASSWORD every time.

I have made no recent hardware changes prior to this, but I did try default clocks and voltages on everything and updating my video card driver with GeForce Experience, which did not HELP.

Here are related bugcheck errors I found in Event Viewer:
4/26/2018 8:09:26 PM: The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck.  The bugcheck was: 0x0000000a (0x0000000089e8d180, 0x00000000000000ff, 0x0000000000000000, 0xfffff8027b20fd56).
4/28/2018 7:27:24 PM: The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck.  The bugcheck was: 0x0000003b (0x00000000c0000005, 0xfffff80d49daeb12, 0xffffee8f83fe0cf0, 0x0000000000000000).
5/2/2018 3:53:34 AM: The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck.  The bugcheck was: 0x0000003b (0x00000000c0000005, 0xffffa88f33bfb9b3, 0xffffa5887e3390e0, 0x0000000000000000).
5/3/2018 7:51:49 AM: The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck.  The bugcheck was: 0x0000004e (0x0000000000000099, 0x00000000005f79b5, 0x0000000000000004, 0x0000000000000001).

Can anyone help quickly determine the cause of this issue?

Computer stuff:
OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit
Motherboard: ASRock - Z97 EXTREME6 ATX LGA1150
CPU: Intel - Core i7-4790K 4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CORSAIR - H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Drive 1:  Samsung - 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Drive 2: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX
Power Supply: XG-H800 Extreme Gear 800 Watt ATX 80+ Bronze

Yes, this was reported to Microsoft about three years ago.
Apparently some users still ask about this issue.
https://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/lock-screen-ask-for-password-twice-windows-10.html
Quote

After they type into the lock screen password first time, there will be a rotating circle, and then it will back to the Windows 10 lock screen and ask for the password again.

Here is my solution ...Just enter the password twice.

ABACAB...great Genisis Tune...

Look up on the wall, there on the floor
Under the pillow, behind the door
There's a crack in the mirror
Somewhere there's a hole in a window pane
Now, do you think I'm to blame?
Tell me, do you think I'm to blame?

... You entered your password twice, you are to blame!

The is my first day width e April Windows  10.
Not a good experiences.
It locked up after login.
It had to be reset.
And it will not let me use the emoicons. So YHOU can not see how sad I am.





Mine has been fine.
Ditto...may be user error...It is running now. I had it repair itself.
At the moment it is running a full scan in the background. I suspect that somehow a bit of MALWARE got in.

Earlier I was setting up Windows XP on this old PC as a dual boot system. Ibid wipe the hard drive, but I might have infected it when I did a download of Power ISO.  Somehow a roue version of CHROMIUM got ton board the Windows XP system.  Hard to remove.

Can it jump track and get into Windows 10?
Reference to Chromium:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tObo4n-Gn1Q

But now the Windows 10 seems to work fine. 
And the emoticon now works.    I spoke too soon.
Windows 10 has ceased. No recovery.You would be better served with a seperate HDD for Win 10 as i suggested months ago.I are right. The case is small and it is hard to get another HDD inside.
Also, this things ought to have four SATA ports,  but I  only see two.

Right now it is running on a old copy of 1607 and is trying to do a massive update.

Oh, Oh, it just now says I have less than two minuets to get outta here.

Maybe I will be back after the reboot.......

Again. After the updater it went back to the same mode. It goes into a crazy loop after I log in. Maybe I should change my name?
Next, I will try an old 1709 and this time refuse updates. 

Now up again on old copy of 1709 on an old 40 GB HDD. I disabled other drives, even  the DVD drive. There is not third SATA connector, so I put it on the DVD cable and set the BIOS to use the 40 GB HDD.
Also, did not sigh in as Geek9pm. Instead I amd now just Fred. Almost forgot the password. Maybe there is a some kind of contract price on my user name adn they are out toget me.

This old drive has abarebones coletionos stuff. But it works.

Today is May 5 and I now have Windows 10 working good and not crashing.

This is the 1709 version and I am not allowing updates. This DVD was made back in February this year. And I have not installed my old software. I think my old software might have messed up something.

I have lost count of how many times I had to install it over again. And I can not use my Microsoft account. If I use my e-mall ADDRESS, the system will crash on the nest login. So I have created an off-line account with not e-mail account.

At this point I am not intrested in explanations. It is just too much work. Windows 10 does a poor job of lettingthe user know what went wrong when things really go very wrong. If yu can not log in, yhou can notg see the error log. MS needs to provide a way for tghe user to get error messages when the login fails. Apparently the login is a weak secusrity area and the security things makes the login spin around and around for never. 

This post waswrittn in Edge on Windoss 10 pro 32 bit 1709 at 9:15 AM on May 4.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 03, 2018, 10:33:20 AM

The is my first day width e April Windows  10.

Umm, what does "e April Windows  10" mean?  Were you trying to say, "The is my first day with the April Windows 10."?  If so, is "April" a version of Windows 10?      

started about 3 days ago.. My CURSOR will freeze and sometimes DISAPPEAR every 2 seconds or so of inactivity.. I so far it can be brought back with one or 2 CLICKS of the left mouse button or roll the scroll WHEEL.. I have not made nor do I know of any changes made to my computer in quite some time.

Thank You for any help.. very annoying and is not correct..

Windows 10 Dell desktop.
Have you tried a difference mouse?

One of my e-mail accounts is a Microsoft account.

In Windows 10 I can not sigh in with my Microsoft account.

I have been using Windows 10 for some time, I think I started back in 2015. Anyway, I am not a new user just now using Windows 10.

On another machine I can use my wife's MS account. Works fine.
But this is my machine and when I use my MS account it will hang at the login.

Here is what I have DONE so far.I can log in by using the F8 options and selecting safe mode. There is no Ethernet connection and it lets me in, but the screen resolution is very low. So I made another account. I know from prior  experimentation  a non MS account will work. So I created the non-MS account. Just a simpler user and password, no e-mail.

So I do the reboot and pick the new user and sign in. No Problema! Apparently there is some kind of hassle with the SECURITY check that hangs the login.  My suspect ion is that something in the One Drive stuff is messing up my PC. But I don't know how to fix it.
Right now I am using Windows 10 as I type this. I logged is as the new user that does not have a MS e-mail.

Here are my questions:
Has this kind of thing been reported by anybody else?
How can I disable my One Drive forever?

EDIT: Is this relevant?
https://support.office.com/en-us/article/fixes-or-workarounds-for-recent-issues-in-onedrive-36110213-f3f6-490d-8cb7-3833539def0b
Sounds like a corrupt profile maybe.

I'd create a new "admin" account on that computer, copy the old profile contents to a USB stick or another place on the drive, and then delete the old profile contents while using this other admin account, but leave the ability for that user to LOGON to that SYSTEM, then log back onto this system with old profile username/password and have it build a new profile fresh. If you need any content back from old profile navigate to the old profile data and copy paste mydocuments ETC to the newly created when logged on profile.Thanks. With time and effort I was able to create a new account and sign in with administrator privileges.

So now I have three users accounts on Windows 10, but only one is usable. I am not even going to try and find out what happened to the other two accounts.

And i will never, ever use One Drive again no will I ever recommend it. 

On Home, You can set the startup type to "disabled" for the Windows Update Service in Services (START->Run "Services.msc"). This will disable Windows Update altogether which means you cannot check for updates either- You'd have to turn it on again first.

Just try to delete the browsing data from WIN Edge for the first time. There is a message SAYING that all data can not be DELETED and RETRY. Repeatedly TRIED but still have the same message. How can I determine which data is not deleted? Also, how can I know this is a privacy / security issue?
https://www.google.com/

Hi
I have no INTERNET on my acer v5 laptop...the internet is working in my home but i have the YELLOW exclamation point at my wifi icon..COULD SOMEONE help me TROUBLESHOOT this? ....thanks

I would LIKE to check the status of the fans or the internal temp, but forgot how to do that.

Regardless, I do not have any working hypothesis as to why this is happening. The COMPUTER seems to FUNCTION okay otherwise, but it is very noisy.

Please advise.speedfan should WORK. temp and fan SPEEDS

+ 1

My Dell Inspiron Model 1545/PP41L laptop  came with Win7 Home Premium - the volume control used to automaximise. It got upgraded to Win10 Pro v1709, other things came right, but the volume still automaximises. It is out of WARRANTY so Dell will not offer any free advice. Device Manager says that the audio driver is optimal. How can I gain control over the volume ?What is  automaximise.
A word like that is used in Microsoft documentation for something ELSE.
Quote

1.    Please go to “Control Panel - EASE of Access Center”.
2.    Go to “Make the mouse easier to USE” and check the item “Prevent windows from being automatically arranged when moved to the edge of the screen.”.
3.    Then go to “Make the keyboard easier to use” and uncheck the item “Prevent windows from being automatically arranged when moved to the edge of the screen.”.

I'm trying to help my sister fix her computer.

She was doing what a call a "factory reset" on an HP laptop running Windows 10. Midway through it, the computer shut down. Afterwards, she couldn't log onto Windows.

I checked the computer. It boots just fine, gets to the Windows GUI log-on screen and automatically logs on. Then, there is a HP Recovery Manager window saying that "The restoration did not complete" and it gives you three options, "SAVE log", "details" and "retry". Also there's a command prompt in the BACKGROUND with a few lines of text saying "The system cannot find the DRIVE specified."

My best theory is that some OS files are missing or corrupted. So far, I have tried to redo the "factory reset," but it would say that it cannot be completed every time. There's no restore point I can go back to.

Interestingly, I can get past the aforementioned windows after doing a Ctrl+Alt+Del and signing out, which brings me to the Windows logon screen again, but this time lets me choose the user (Administrator). It then lets me logon as usual, without any problems, which is baffling ---some GUI features, e.g. the "ask me anything" box may not work though. So, this only happens when I first turn-on the computer and log onto Windows.

Since you think OS files might be missing or corrupted, if you can logon to windows I would go to command prompt using run as administrator mode and do the dism command as shown in the screenshot below and wait until it's done.




Once that gets done do the sfc/scannow as shown in the screenshot below:




These should check system windows files to see if they're ok or not. Just to eliminate one more source of potential errorI did what you suggest. System files look fine.

I'm thinking of creating a system recovery disc or image on another computer and then trying to fix the BROKEN one.

Do you have any other SUGGESTIONS?

Just bought one of these tablets specifically because it has an x86 Intel Atom Z3735F 1.33 GHz with Intel Burst Technology up to 1.83 GHz CPU in it to have command shell functionality in a tablet form and I was able to bring up command shell and get to the prompt but then, the tablet has no smarts in it to know that you just opened a command shell and so a keyboard should be brought up on the screen to be able to give instructions. 

Was WONDERING if anyone knows of a solution to this for Windows 10 tablets where people want to enter information in command shell?

I have a bluetooth keyboard that I got connected to it and then I was able to use a keyboard to run instructions in the command shell but other than that, i am not sure how to summon the touch screen keypad/keyboard to be able to enter stuff into command shell window...

Tapping on the shell window and on the border of the window etc DOESNT give any options. I guess MICROSOFT never thought that people with tablets might actually want to enter stuff into command shell window -or- they assumed that people would just connect a bluetooth keyboard. 

Here is the tablet I bought for $68 on amazon with my prime membership and a discount.
https://www.amazon.com/NuVision-High-Definition-Touchscreen-Quad-Core-Processor/dp/B01N6HD4IE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524237828&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=nuvision+10.1+tablet&psc=1&smid=A3JS2199GQLB8L

Of the 32GB STORAGE there is 6GB free which is tight, but I am going to add a 64GB microSD Card to it to extend the storage capacity of it. Its not the fastest device but thats to be expected of a tablet running Windows 10 that only cost $68 and Intel Atom CPU's aren't fast anyways. Its not as sluggish as my $30 Emerson brand Android quadcore tablet though. The biggest reason for getting it was that i wanted x86 execution portability in tablet form as well as a low power consumption Windows 10 environment which it is. But it would be nice to not have to lug a keyboard along with it as for if I was going to do that I would have bought a tablet with a folding or detachable keyboard.You should be able to set an option to have the on screen keyboard icon display on the taskbar so you can tap it whenever needed.  Right-click on the Taskbar and check the option "Show touch keyboard button".Return it for this one.
https://www.amazon.com/NUVISION-10-1-inch-Touchscreen-Processor-1-84GHz-Bluetooth/dp/B01MRWNQ96/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524260440&sr=8-3&keywords=nuvision+10.1+tabletThanks Strollin that fixed it 

As per returning it for the other model that computer_commando suggested, price was too good to pass up at just $68 with a discount that I got, and the other one you have linked here is about $130. I have a laptop and a netbook that I can use if I need to type a lot etc, but just having an x86 tablet that can run programs I wrote and other Windows based stuff is all I really need, and now that the command shell. At some point I will learn to write apps for android etc, but the command shell of windows and ability to run a vast variety of scripts and compiled code for me is much more powerful than the limitations of android ARM processor tablets and phones.

My computer:  Dell Intel i-5-4460
                       CPU 3.20 GHz
                       RAM 88 GB
                       64-bit

I play a game on Facebook called Bejeweled. Every now and then I buy coins from them to continue to play.  They have a 1/2 off sale on Fridays, and this Friday I went to buy some coins and when I clicked on the little PLUS sign, a box comes up and says "Waiting for Server Response".  It would never let me buy coins.  So I emailed the Facebook or Bejeweled people and got a response that they were having TROUBLE, however, some people have corrected the problem by emptying their history, so I did that. No difference.  Now they are telling me to do this and before I do this, I wanted to ask if you guys thought this was a way to fix the problem.  I'm a little skeptical.

Start - misconfig
Go to System Configuration
Hit Services Tab
Click box Hide All Microsoft Services, Disable All
Go to Startup Tab and click on open Task Manager
Click each of the Startup Programs in the list and click Disable Button
Close Task Manager
Click Okay on  System Configuration and restart my computer.
Then get on the game and see if that worked.

Seems to me (and you guys know I don't know computers) if I disable all on startup, I will get nothing when my computer restarts.  Should I do all this?
Except for the task manager part (which makes no sense if you're rebooting), they're asking you to do a selective startup. There's no harm in doing so, but you can just as easily either boot to safe mode with networking or, even better, try a DIFFERENT browser.Yeah, I've tried GOOGLE Chrome and I even "fixed" my laptop to see if it was doing the same thing.  They are doing the same thing.  So I am assuming it is a problem with the people that have that game on Facebook.  Comcast is my server and I have a friend who got through and could buy her coins with Comcast, so I guess my server is not the problem.

My laptop with Windows 10 hasn't had an update since 2016 so today I decided to see if there were any upgrades. I found one update and it installed and then shut off the computer. When I restarted the computer I received the message that it was restoring to my previous Windows 10. What's going on here?That was likely the Fall Creators update that glitched for whatever reason...is the KB # listed ? ?

Also it does a few re-boots on it's own to complete...you may have powered down prematurely...Just an update. After it did the restoration the only thing new I could find was the Windows 10 Update installer so I ran it for about 10 hrs. and it was stuck at 99% so I shut it down. I opened the laptop this morning and version 10586 is still there so I'm trying another download. Will report what happens next.Just a heads up that I had one computer that was failing to install an update for Windows 10. I finally got it to take by forcing it through a clean install using a newer Windows 10 ISO provided by Microsoft. Only pain was having to reinstall everything again after wiping the hard drive. The good thing is that this path of re-installation didnt involve driver MADNESS. Just 3 key pieces of software that i use on a regular basis.

Here is the Tool that I used to create a newer up to date ISO to get past the update that wasnt taking: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Note when it asks what computer it was for I stated other, this way it creates a more universal ISO that i can use for other systems as well as for it might look at hardware and build an ISO specific for your build and no others if that question is still there. It also will ASK what version of Windows 10 you want. I went with Windows 10 Home edition.When you run the new DLoad make sure all your protection apps are off...

P.S. 10586 is the Build #...not the update #.Just an update. I successfully downloaded the new update in about 2 hours and everything seems to be working a-one. I now have version 16299. Kewl Beans...glad yer fixed up DAVE... Quote from: patio on April 17, 2018, 05:03:59 PM

Kewl Beans...glad yer fixed up Dave...

Just an update. I successfully downloaded the new update in about 2 hours and everything seems to be working a-one. I now have version 16299.

Dear All,
Thank you for reading this.  Hope you can help me.  At present, I have a problem with my Asus laptop.  It is not starting properly.  I have used it for 2 years, without a problem.  This is what happens when I would start up. 
1.    I switch the Asus laptop on.
2.   I see the Asus logo, and wait.
3.   A blue box comes up, SAYING ‘Enter PASSWORD’.
4.   I enter the password, as required.
At this point, the laptop usually goes onto the Windows Entry Screen, showing me the picture of a window in Windows 10.  I can then usually go to my account  in Windows 10. 
Now, however, I do not get to the Windows Entry Screen.  Instead, I see a red box, saying the following:
(at the top)       Secure Boot Violation
(TEXT)           Invalid Signature Detected.  Check Scure Boot Policy
Once this message is shown, I get no further. 

The last thing I did was to update Windows 10.  After this, I saw the red box.  Does anybody have any suggestions to get around this problem, please?.
See Here... Quote from: patio on April 07, 2018, 03:10:32 PM

See Here...

The Windows 10 updates have been installed and all is running well. The only thing that concerned me was the message that "Support for Windows 10 would end in April 2018." If this is the last version of the last OS then support should never end.Windows 10 releases have a lifecycle like Previous Windows versions (or service packs). The lifecycle has a much faster cadence than previous Windows versions as well, which is why some versions of Windows 10 are losing support even before Windows 7.

April 10th 2018 is end of support for the Windows 10 Anniversary Update (1703).I'd say that's pretty "accelerated"... Quote from: SuperDave on April 04, 2018, 11:47:08 AM

The only thing that concerned me was the message that "Support for Windows 10 would end in April 2018." If this is the last version of the last OS then support should never end.

I wonder if there was a miscommunication? I understood you to mean that you wouldn't provide malware removal assistance to somebody who refused to run an AV, but I can see how it might have been understood as saying you would never help somebody anywhere on the forum if they didn't use one.

Hi! I’ve never posted on this forum before and I couldn’t find any previous posts similar to my issue, so I wanted to say thanks up front for any help that can be provided. I've also EXTENSIVELY scoured the internet for suggestions. I consider myself a fairly decent PC guy, but this problem has me baffled to no end.

Any program I attempt to use that requires OpenGL crashes almost immediately upon OPENING it. Occasionally, OpenGL works, but 90% of the time it just crashes the program. This issue is repeatable in Cinema 4D, Cinebench, OpenGL Extension Viewer (when trying the rendering tests), browsers when OpenGL is being used, and various other 3D applications.

My system:

• Windows 10 Home Edition (Version 1709/Build 16299.371)
• AMD Threadripper 1950X
• Gigabyte x399 Designare motherboard
• Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2A2666C16 (64GB across 8 sticks)
• EVGA 980 ti hybrid (x2)/EVGA 980
• EVGA 1300 PSU

• Installing the latest Nvidia drivers (using DDU to remove the OLD drivers)
• Rolling back the Nvidia drivers to two different versions that were considered stable (using DDU to remove the old drivers)
• Updating BIOS to the latest version
• Updating the chipset drivers to the latest version
• Removing all GPUs and trying them one at a time in difference PCI slots
• Confirmed the memory is compatible
• Testing the memory
• Testing the monitor cables (I knew this wasn’t it, but I figured it couldn’t hurt)

I would revert back to the original drivers on the CD that shipped with the card...

I accidentally unplugged the laptop from power (laptop didn't have the battery inserted) and now the laptop is trying to RESTORE the previous version of windows in a permanent loop. How do I fix this problem?What version of Windows? (E.g., Windows 10)See Here... Quote from: NIL on March 19, 2018, 09:54:23 AM

What version of Windows? (E.g., Windows 10)

Once  again, I have to install Windows 10.
I doubt that is is just a common hardware issue, Windows 7 works just fine. And tests of the RAM and Hard drive do not SHOW any problems.
So I think my old Dell 755 is just not suitable for the insider preview. I need to install a STABLE version of Windows 10. (32 bit pro)

Any suggestions would be helpful. 

Not sure what you mean by 'stable version'. Or why you think you have a choice of versions, unless you mean Home/Pro/Enterprise. You do know that you have to pay for Windows 10 now? That is, you can't get a free new install via the Insider program.


In addition to what ST said, you always want the most current version of whatever OS you are using.In fairness, I should admit that I only found out the other day that, although I have been in the Windows Insider Program for 3 years, and have a Dell D830 laptop that has been getting builds all that time, that does not mean I can download the latest Insider build and install it on another machine, that never had it before, and expect it to be activated, even if I sign in via my Microsoft account. That option went away quite some time ago. To activate, you need a valid license, Insider or regular build. There is plenty of information on the Web about what this means. There are quite a few differences from previous versions of Windows in this regard.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 06, 2018, 11:48:21 AM

...I need to install a stable version of Windows 10. (32 bit pro)...

So I think my old Dell 755 is just not suitable for the insider preview. I need to install a stable version of Windows 10. (32 bit pro)

I have all my setting set so that this doesn't happen (pictured) so I'm going to describe my system and issue, and hopefully someone knows what to do. 

I have a laptop running Windows 10, closed and docked with dual monitors plugged into the dock.  I have the Power Options/System Setting for closing the lid/sleep set to do nothing when the laptop is plugged in to a power source and to turn off the screen after 1 hour when plugged in. 

Yet my COMPUTER GOES to sleep after 2 minutes and 30 seconds of inactivity.  The monitors go black and I'm forced to wake it up and log back in.  Please tell me how I can fix this.  The laptop doesn't have the issue when used undocked.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I found a thread where users were reporting a similar problem to yours - "windows 10 laptop goes to sleep after 2 minutes..." some of them said the method recommended in this thread worked:

https://www.tenforums.com/performance-maintenance/17899-monitor-turns-off-after-2-minutes-inactivity-3.html#post441903

Might be worth a shot.Thank you so much!  This worked for me, I was hesitant to edit the registry but gave it a shot and everything works now.When suggesting anything involving registry edits i always mention a good backup tool...

My PERSONAL preference is ERUNT.

Many people find out the hard way that if you USE Windows registry backup it is incomplete...and pretty much useless.

Glad your'e fixed up.

So basically I have a Windows 10 Laptop. It is good for most of the THINGS I want to do but it isn't very fast. I want to be able to render things faster, load things faster, etc. I was thinking that I could get a new, much better beefy computer then somehow connect my laptop to it.

The general idea is that I want my computer to be faster, I am not completely sure how I would do this.

If you have any clue on how to do this, who I should ask, or what this would be called please reply.

*(I am not looking to transfer my current computers info to a better computer, rather I am looking to transfer the computer power of a better computer to my current laptop.)*
Knowing what you have for a laptop make/model would help, as well as SPECS if you have upgraded anything to be different from when it was purchased? Additionally what games do you want to run and what frame rate expectation do you have?

Some laptops you can replace their CPU's with a better CPU buying used mobile CPU off of ebay and as long as the TDP is similar and other models using that same main board support the better CPU you can sometimes upgrade.

RAM amount INCREASED can also make faster as well as a SSD upgrade to replace that old slow 5400RPM Hard Drive.

But as far as GAMES go.... Unless the laptop supports adding a mobile video card as an upgrade path, the frame rate of games isnt going to be much better.

Laptops generally have short life cycles for gamers as for the GPUs in most of them are what causes them to get set to the side and a newer laptop replacing it. So a desktop computer is always better for people who game and have a tight budget as for you can get a $40 video card for a desktop computer and make a 10 year old desktop computer play some modern games pretty well.

Most people find themselves having to replace the laptop because it doesnt meet the system requirements for whatever software or games they want to run. And while you can optimize a system to be more efficient to gain performance with exception to load times quicker for games on systems running with SSD drives, editing a systems services etc to minimize wasted CPU cycles and memory might only give a 5% performance boost. So someone who is running benchmarks and looking to get a higher score than others with same make/model laptop might go in and reduce the amount of stuff the computer has to run to make it less loaded down to be slightly faster.

But speed and memory cant be just downloaded to a computer. There are limitations to all hardware and systems, as well as most laptops dont have ability to overclock them to push for 10% better performance etc. Quote

(I am not looking to transfer my current computers info to a better computer, rather I am looking to transfer the computer power of a better computer to my current laptop.)*

Basically looking for a external buff CPU for my laptop.

Hello

As I start my PC, I get a message pointing me to this file:

C/Windows/Temp/BitDefenderThreatScanner.dmp and the message advises me to CONTACT the creator of it - I don't know who that is. It is a Dump File of 0KB.

Can I delete that file, please?

Thanks As I understand it there are patches for this issue. Usually following a BD update. Do you indeed have Bitdefender installed?Looks like your infected with something pretending to be bit defender and they want you to contact them so that they can infect you further and possibly get your credit CARD. Install MALWAREBYTES and perform a full scan. I have a FEELING your going to have some PROBLEMS detected that it should clean up!