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I am BUILDING new pc. Never done before. Got windows 10 usb. Installed, then screen went black. Took hours to try to find ANSWER. Couldn't find any help. Rebooted bios. Had system only boot windows boot manager. It worked! Windows 10 continued the setup (choose region, location service, privacy settings etc). Windows 10 up and RUNNING. Even went on internet. I get a notification saying 'need to reset to install updates'. I SELECT restart now. screen goes black (same fashion as before). NOTHING. Cannot get windows to start again
 
I cannot find an answer and this is driving me insane. Please help. I have no idea what I am doing.

When I click on it it goes to the taskbar and has the small pictures of above taskbar
but won't enlarge. I don't GET searchI would recommend resetting the browser first. If that does not help then TRY reinstalling

https://www.groovypost.com/howto/reset-microsoft-edge-default-settings/or, unless you have some SENTIMENTAL CONNECTION with Edge, why not TAKE the opportunity to migrate to another browser, say Firefox or Chrome or Opera.

Hi I have a Lenovo ideapad 100s with only a 28.6GB of memory I checked my storage and found system and reserve using 26.2GB of memory which means I can't download any new updates can the system reserve be reduced safely APPRECIATE any help guys I'm a novice many thanksStorage is HDD space...memory is RAM....which one are you having issues with ? ?System Reserved Partition: https://www.howtogeek.com/192772/what-is-the-system-reserved-partition-and-can-you-delete-it/
That partition is not available for your use, so it has NOTHING to do with how much space is available

How large is your HD? You can use an app such as treesize (free) to see where the space is being used: https://www.jam-software.com/treesize_free/Nice catch Allan...i'm readin too fast again... NP

Greetings.
I had numerous photos on my PC and decided to move them to a flash drive. Transfer took a while but it got done. I am now having difficulty viewing my photos. A lot seems to have disappeared or unable to be viewed. Prior to the transfer, all were well. Now, when trying to view the photo, I get a notification stating that "we cant open this file". I move a few back to the pc, and I am still unable to view the photos that I COULD have before the transfer. Any idea how this could be CORRECTED. Thanking you in advance, Hennessy. How many photos were transferred?  (File Size) Also, how long have you had the flash drive and what is the brand? For me flash drives last about 3 years and I start having problems, but I usually lose them before then. I don't know of any way to recover the missing ones but you could try and open the file on another computer. It's always a good thing to make sure the transfer completed successfully before deleting files off of your pc. Maybe check the recycle bin? Hope everything works out!Are these photo's from a phone perhaps ? ?
If so have you tried usin the phone's software to view/open them ? ?
What file extension is listed on them ? ?to get you started on the recovery path if you can't find those photos ELSEWHERE, you could try a program called Recuva to scan the PC with and one called PhotoRec to scan the USB stick with.

My laptop is a Windows 10 Dell, that seems to be having a hard time staying connected to the internet. Once a day I see the little yellow triangle over my internet icon. I would blame it on internet service, but there are two other computers in this house, on my floor and on the bottom floor, but no one else has experienced the same problems on their computers. A couple of times when I lost internet access I found out I couldn't print anything while it was gone. Every time I lose internet all the networks disappear, leaving me with 'no networks found.' Since November 2 of 2017, I have lost internet access 64 times, many of these were multiple times a day. I got this laptop new in the summer of 2016, but didn't start using it until SEPTEMBER of the same year. Here's what I've tried:
A few times I have been able to 'enable wi-fi' and get it back, but I can no longer enable it now.
Every time I troubleshoot it tells me to check my ethernet CABLE (I do not have one. The modem is downstairs, my laptop is upstairs). When I checked for a diagnosis it said 'troubleshooting could not identify the problem.'
I've done a disk cleanup, a de-frag, and I've done a full scan with anti-virus.
I've done the ol' turn the wi-fi off and on again. I can turn it off, but never on again.
The only thing I can do is either restart my computer or shut it down and turn it back on again to get internet back. Every time I restart my computer, it will load for a few minutes, then I get the blue screen with the big frowny face and the message: "your PC ran into a problem and needs to restart. We're just collecting some ERROR info, and then we'll restart for you." Every time I try shutting it down, it will go black with the fan still running for about five minutes, before turning to the Dell logo and back to the log-in. I've been having this internet problem since I got the laptop, and moreso since I moved. Sometimes it's severe, then the problem goes away for a few weeks, then it comes back. It's now worse than ever. I worry that this is something in my computer causing the problem. If not, do I just need something like a signal booster? An adapter maybe? Please help. I would try facotry-resetting your wireless router, and connecting to it with default wireless settings. If it is still happening, you know it's not the router config/hardware problem with the router.

If that doesn't work, I'd go to Device Manager, find your WiFi NIC, and check for a driver update.

You can also try going to Dell Support for your laptop model, and looking for updated network drivers for Windows 10.Too bad it's out of warranty, but the wifi card has probably gone bad. They are easily replaceable, just like RAM.You can pick up a USB wifi adapter for pretty cheap that are better. You can aim them whichever direction you need it. I have one and it PICKS up more networks than the PCI one built in.

Hello.  I have an ASUS Desktop PC Series CM6870.   It has an Intel Core i7-3770 CPU, 16 GB RAM and runs Windows 10 at 64 bits.
My problem concerns the partitioning of my internal hard drive.  The internal drive is 2TB but was partitioned into two by the manufacturer.  The "Windows (C:) drive was only allotted 149GB. The rest constitutes the "D:" drive and is 1.65TB.
Over the course of using the computer, the C partition has become full. I don't download or store anything on that partition. I haven't installed any new software but all my program files are on the C drive.  The amount of remaining space on that partition seems to fluctuate several GB per day but generally gets smaller.  I have done what i can to try to locate what is taking up all that space. the C>Windows folder takes up about 55GB of space.   The C>Users folder takes up about 25GB.
I tried to increase the size of the C partition. I used Partition magic to create a new partition from the D partition. I can't seem to now merge the new partition with the C partition.
I would appreciate any help with this problem.
ThanksAFAIK you can't do it with built in Disk Management (WIN+X, click Disk Management). All you can do is the standard way, resize C: so it can contain everything from D:, move everything from D: to C:, delete partition D:, resize partion C: to include the unallocated space.

However it looks like there's a free tool that can merge two partitions "magically" although it's not partition magic. I haven't tried this so please do so at your own risk, but here's the doc on the software website

https://www.easeus.com/partition-manager-software/combine-partitions-windows-10-free.html

best of luckyou could RELOCATE things from the C drive to the D drive, like User files and pagefile.

User files, like Docs, Pics, Music etc you right click on and hit Properties > LocationSee if this is helpful. Let me know if any questions

https://www.easeus.com/partition-master/partition-magic-windows-10.htmlHI
[/quote]
I tried to increase the size of the C partition. I used Partition magic to create a new partition from the D partition. I can't seem to now merge the new partition with the C partition.
[/quote]

When you want to increase the size of a partition it needs to have free space. It seems you have created another partition where you should have deleted the D partition and left it un allocated and then resized the C Partition including the free space. Windows Disk manager or any of the tools others have suggested can do a resize . It is always best to Backup the drive first then if anything goes wrong you can restore the backup making the C partition larger. 
If he deleted the D: partition all his data is gone...not a good choice.

He needed to create a new partition from free space on D:...then merge it with C:...
From dictation.
Here are some general observations about using tools such as the EASUS PartitionMagic or similar tools for altering partition size on a Windows based system.
First of all, the user should have a backup plan already in place before making any attempts to change partition size or the number partitions.
Next, the disc drive should be diagnosed with at least the check disk utility that comes with in Windows. If the check disk utility reports errors on the drive, any attempts to partition the drive may result in errors.
An option is to also try using the defragmentation utility. It might not be necessary, but it might make it easier for the disk partitioning software to resize or move any partition.
If the partition to be altered or removed is also the same partition used to boot and operate the operating system, it might be necessary for the partitioning software to reboot the computer and start the partitioning task before the operating system is loaded.
Based on my own EXPERIENCE here are some problems I think might be relevant.
Every time something happens to increase the possible drive space that can be allowed on a disk drive, that turns out to be some kind of hardware or software problem that interferes with larger disk size. Even with the newest methods in use, there still is a problem when you get to extremely large drives. Specifically, over 2Tb there is a BIOS issue taht can not be fixed with just the any disk partitioning software.
Windows 10 and a few programs do not really take up a lot of space. The space REQUIRED is usually less than 100 GB. If something is using up an awful lot of space for no apparent REASON, it's possible there may be some kind of mall where present on the system that is trying to propagate itself. But I don't know how to prove that. Nevertheless, using some type of virus scanner should be a frequent practice of any user that ever gets on the Internet.
In the worst say case scenario, you have to erase everything on the huge drive and then partition that as desired and after the partitioning is done install the operating system from media such as a DVD or a USB device with Windows 10 installation software.
Trying to move or repartition of very large drives is very time-consuming. Especially if the drive is near full. In fact, if the drive is very close to being full in may be near impossible to change the partition size at all. There has to be some wiggle room for they partitioning software to move files around. If there is a very large file that needs to be new move and there isavailable for that large file, the partitioning software has to figure out some other way to make adjustments to the partition. In some cases it may not be able to complete the task because there is one or more files that are just too large to move.
An empty drive is much, much easier to partition. The software does not really have to move any data around, just change the size of an empty partition. He can actually take less time to do a backup, erase the drive completely, partition the drive, and copy the operating system and other software back onto the newly partitions Drive.
The maker of the drive partition software should have a knowledge base that deals with issues involving very large drives and partitions that are nearly full.

I hope this is good is of some help.   
 Microphone off

EDIT: Here is a link taht might be relevant:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/help/2581408/windows-support-for-hard-disks-that-are-larger-than-2-tb
Quote

In order for an operating system to fully support storage devices that have capacities that exceed 2 terabytes (2 TB, or 2 trillion bytes), the device must be initialized by using the GUID partition table (GPT) partitioning scheme. This scheme supports addressing of the full range of storage capacity. If the user intends to start the computer from one of these large disks, the system’s base firmware interface must use the Unified Extensible Firmware Interface (UEFI) and not BIOS.

I'd suggest making a second partition but not merging it with the C Drive. The more that gets put on a partition the slower it becomes. I have different partitions for music, videos, programs, phots etc.

for OS Build 16299.192 on W10 1709 will not install on my PC. It tried last night and hung my PC. Had to restore from a backup image. Tried to install again. LOOKED like it installed ok but got an error message saying it did not. What should I do? Thanks.

Just found this - exactly what happened to me with my old Athlon processor:

http://news.softpedia.com/news/windows-10-cumulative-update-kb4056892-meltdown-spectre-fix-fails-to-install-519238.shtmlInteresting ... I have a few systems with the Athlon 64 x2 PROCESSORS.

None of them patched yet as they are offline. Its good to know that this could render them broken if I have them update. One of them is running Windows 10 64-bit Home from the free 7 to 10 upgrade path they had, and other 2 are Windows 7 and Vista.Don’t understand why MS stays mute. Many speculate they will declare affected processors obsolete rather than repair patch. This will not make me happy but I wish they would make a statement one way or the other.The patch was not very well tested. It seems to utilize processor features during it's setup process which don't work on older AMD processors.

The Meltdown patch only affects Intel processors anyway so applying it to AMD chips doesn't actually fix anything anyway, and Spectre, the other discovered flaw, affects All x86 compatible CPU chips save a handful of exceptions since the PENTIUM Pro, and there is no "patch" or "fix" for it because it is part of the elementary design.

You can use this Troubleshooter to hide the update.Thx BC. I found the troubleshooter earlier today and hid the update. Restarted PC and it did not try to install so I hope all is well for now. I hope MS understands what you posted.Looks like MS understands issue and is working to get it resolved.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4073707/windows-operating-system-security-update-block-for-some-amd-based-deviThat's pretty funny. They rushed the patch, apparently didn't bother to give it any proper testing, but of course it is somebody elses fault because they weren't told it wouldn't work. Would be even funnier if the documentation they are referencing was provided by Intel.Yeah, I’m sure AMD appreciates being hung out to dry on this one. Of course, maybe they did give MS incorrect info. Wonder how many people lost everything? Probably most heavy and/or sophisticated users had recent restore points or backups. However, I bet many (thousands, millions?) around the globe got screwed.The patch has been pulled... Quote from: patio on January 09, 2018, 08:56:00 AM

The patch has been pulled...

See Here...

Hey guys,



My PC hangs after I load my gpu for a while. For example, if I'm GAMING or running a blend torture test with prime 95 my entire pc freezes and there's no input (mouse/keyboard doesn't work) or output (sound). The only fix is a hard reset. I've attached two administrative event LOGS and a pic of my device manager. All my drivers are up to date

Here are my specs

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/QXstm8



Hope you guys can help, without being able to game buying this pc was counter productive

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]Find your CPU Here...  then check if the RAM you bought is on the QVL list... Quote from: patio on January 11, 2018, 07:23:22 AM

Find your CPU Here...  then check if the RAM you bought is on the QVL list...

The photos I put in my "Pictures" folder usually show up in their natural colors.  Now, suddenly they appear as if they have been tinged with a light blue color.  How to remedy this?

I use Photoshop CS6.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Joe Busuttil Guzeppi, Do other PEOPLE notice this problem? Or is it only you?

As a test, try this. Mail some photos  to a nearby FRIEND or relative as an ATTACHMENT in your e-mail. And ASK them if the photos look alright. I

f the photos look alright, you might have an issue with the graphics settings of you video card. Or maybe a wire has broken in the cable that goes from the computer to the monitor. You are using a Desktop PC, - Right?


My mother once told me that all the people who worked for the BBC were looking very sick, and it turned out to be the tint control on her TV.
          

What a hoot...

When i turn on LAPTOP after a couple of minutes I get blue screen SAYING "Your computer run into a problem and NEEDS to RESTART.We're just collecting some error info,and then we'll restart for you." And under that VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (atikmpag.sys)
What should I do?
You need to re-install the vid DRIVERS from the laptop manuf. site...
Re-boot after.

Have lost the ARROW which is used to open the Start MENU in Windows 10.  How to
 retrieve it, please?

Many thanks in advance.

Guzeppido you mean the mouse pointer???
have you rebooted the PC?

but for your particular problem, hitting the Windows key on the keyboard will also bring up the Windows 10 start menu (if you haven't installed a 3RD party start menu replacement software).
then you can use the keyboard to navigate to whatever you were after.Some LAPTOPS have a "hide the mouse pointer" feature which is toggled by a function key or keys which you may have pressed accidentally.. Toshibas may use F5, Asus may use FN + F5. Tell us what machine you are using. The key may have a picture of a mouse with a LINE through it.

It is very annohying. A browser bar shows up with no invitation and no option to delete. Is it a Trojan? Whay is it there? I never asked for it. It confuses me.

How do I get  rid of it?Hi 
Can you provide us a screenshot for this bar ?
I recommend you to scan your PC with Adwcleaner and RogueKillervery good chance it is not any sort of malware infection but a pre-installed program.
go to Control Panel, Programs & Features and remove something called WebBar Search or WebSearch Bar, something like that.
it would be bloatware that CAME with your PC.
This thin showed up with no warning. I do not like it. It makes it very hard to see what is going on. It confuses me.
Attachment below.
I PUT a big arrow to show you where it is. It is at the to of the screen. I have no idea of where it came from.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Did you try Mark's suggestion? From what I can find it is the Google Chrome Web Bar. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 26, 2017, 12:42:54 AM

Did you try Mark's suggestion? From what I can find it is the Google Chrome Web Bar.

• Unchecky automatically unchecks unrelated offers, both saving you mouse clicks and making it less likely to miss a checkbox of an unwanted offer.
• Installers often try to sneak additional programs as a natural part of the installation. Unchecky warns you when you try to accept a potentially unwanted offer, which makes it less likely to be accepted accidentally.

The WebDiscover browser seamlessly integrates your favorite Chrome features and settings into one CONVENIENT tool to search the web... all from the comfort of your desktop.
Just type into the bar to access search results, your favorite web sites and more. Search powered by Bing.

I logged into my computer this morning and it said my user profile has been corrupted. Could anyone tell me how to FIX this ISSUE, as the DATA in my user account was very important.good news, all your data is still there, under the user profile you used to log in with.

when you get the message 'your profile is corrupt', does it log you in with a temporary user?
if so, you can go to Settings and create a new login account to log on with.

the theory is, once you log in with a new account, you copy the old accounts DOWNLOAD, Docs, Pics etc folders over to the new user.

I'm using windows 10 and I cannot get the Windows alarms to stop on its own, it GOES on literally forever until you click "Dismiss".  I cannot find anywhere to change it to a timeout, but there must be a way, EVEN if it's a registry ADJUSTMENT.  Thanks for any help.Which alarm ? ?
The alarm that COMES with Windows; you click on the tile "Alarms and Clocks" which has a picture of an alarm clock on its face.rite clik / disable...reboot
astrose,
you aren't alone, others here with same problem; http://www.howto-connect.com/windows-10-configure-alarm-app/
looks LIKE if you don't stop it, it just keeps on ringing.

I have win 7 and 10 on one hard drive. at bootup time i get the option of PICKING one or the other. Recently i have had minor problems with Win 10 after the recent update. The other day as i booted up to win 10, i saw an option asking me if i need to repair it. So I thought, why not...it might straighten out my Cortana search problem...( it does not work ). well it really MESSED up my boot up options after that. I could only go to Win 10. Win 7 is no longer shown in my boot box. I want Win 7 back, more than want win 10...anyone have an idea of how i can get the computer to acknowledge win 7, EVEN at the cost of losing win 10?It seems windows update has recreated the Boot configuration Data file, loosing the windows 7 boot option.

If you have a look here it explains how to recreate this file as well as how to back up the file if this happens again.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-rebuild-the-bcd-in-windows-2624508

I am getting a new pc with Win10 on it and want to transfer important files to it from my win7. I have COPIES of my pictures and music and documents but what else is important to transfer? Settings? profiles?
Also the easiest way to do this is? I see win10 no longer has the easy transfer function and MS seems to want you to use LapLink.
I have an external Drive that houses my pic/music, what else should I put on it?

ThanksPersonally, I only care about the data (pics, music, docs, etc...).  In more than 30 YEARS of moving from OLD computers to new computers I have never bothered with trying to transfer settings, profiles or installed software.  I like to start out fresh with a new computer with a fresh install of the OS and software.  Others may feel differently but that's the way I've always done it.Thanks, I like that idea too. I just wasn't sure if there was something I was missingCouldn't agree more with strollin...about the only thing I would add would be your browser settings, and emails/contacts.
obviously if your email client is web based, you can ignore that.
as to browser settings, I refer to bookmarks, passwords, history, and the such.
if you want them, go to your relevant browser profile folder, sort the list by DESCENDING date and the ones you want will be the top most few (changes slightly depending on your browser)Technically, everything you need except for operating system.
After you back to Windows 7, settings can be reconfigure yet the files you created cannot. Windows 10 can still use Windows Easy Transfer from Windows 7. If you put easy transfer onto the external drive and then run it from there on windows 10 it will transfer from a windows 10 to windows 10 or other versions of windows from 7 up, to Win 10.
Also I would download a password recovery tool and printout passwords stored in browsers, your email settings and passwords. Nirsoft has free tools for this.
I would backup my email using kls mail backup for RESTORE to the new computer.
A product key finder is also handy if you have software you will need to reload.
 

Hi.I just got my new computer an IdeaPad 320(this computer isn't my main) i want to delete my windows 10 os and leave my computer having no operating system,well because im going to use this computer for tor browsing only on a bootable tails os usb. How do i completely delete this windows 10 os?If you wanna run of a bootable USB OS and apps it's not neccessary to wipe the HDD...

I don't get it.Hared to understand what he wants.
He has aLenovo IdeaPad 320 notebook with:
[quoe]
Specifications
Ram size: 4 GB
Hard drive size: 1 TB
Display size: 14 inch
Display type: LED
OS: Windows
Dimensions: 13.30 inch (H) : 0.80 inch (W) : 9.80 inch (D)
Weight: 4.60 pound (2.09 kg)
Colour: gray · Onyx Black
[/quote]
That notebook will not do Internet without an Operating System. 

Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 06, 2017, 03:25:03 PM

Hared to understand what he wants.

Ok remove the HDD,does the ideapad 320 have an HDD?And will the bios still work and function without the HDD?

So the oddity is that after the recent update of Windows 10, both the picture at logon changed where you enter password and my desktop changed to where I had gadgets working under 8gadgetpack installed, and the update wiped out that feature from my desktop and in its place was a shortcut on my desktop giving me the ability to restore the 8gadgetpack back to my desktop.

I ran the shortcut and 8gadgetpack was reinstalled to desktop and the shortcut automatically deleted itself from the desktop which I have never seen before. An interesting trash clean up routine vs having a shortcut not beneficial remaining after gadgets restored.

So question I have is... Does Windows 10 on updates install a completely fresh install of Windows 10, but import installed programs and personal data to a clean build of itself or does it still just patch like prior Windows versions as for after this update it feels like a clean build but my data merged to it?

Reason why it feels like its a clean install of the latest 10 with merged data is because its acting faster now after updates like it did when it was installed clean and shortly after the update and reboot .. maybe an hour later it popped up with a message in lower right corner stating that i could free up hard drive space if I chose to delete the old Windows installation. Given the 500GB HDD in it had only 7GB free because I have almost my entire Steam Game collection installed, I decided to delete the prior Windows install to get that space back. That's a helluva good question.  Since the last update or so my login picture keeps changing to anything but the one I want, I also noticed that after updates part of my music library has to be reloaded - I don't know if that has anything to do with the updates or if it's another 'undocumented feature'
This would have to do with how you got to Win 10....updates as far as i know do not create an Old Windows...only an install does this...
For example if it was a Win7 PC updated to Win 10 that would be created...and/or if you did a repair install.I played around with it during the free upgrade for about a week, but I'm on the test system right now.  I think it might bet the new one - I know the Fall Creators dealymoohickey - but it wouldn't activate on the first one I'd tried, I don't think it was installed long enough.  So I used an extra Win 7 Pro key

Not sure if that answers your question or not
Major Windows 10 updates are effectively an upgrade install- like upgrading from Windows 98 to Windows XP type of deal.

The Major updates are when the Windows version changes. Version 1607 to 1703, or 1703 to 1709, etc.

It SEEMS that SOMETIMES these major updates are not offered directly via Windows Update, however an "update" will be delivered which installs the Update Assistant and creates a scheduled task which is designed either to update your system when you aren't looking, or avoid interfering with the use of the PC, depending on who you ask.

These "Upgrade" installs will typically create a Windows.Old folder as a result.Okay, that makes sense - I wondered where that icon came fromDo you mean an update which changes the build number? Like Creators Update (Build 1703, April 2017), or the Fall Creators Update (Build 1709, September 2017)? With that update type, you can choose either an upgrade install, where your personal files, apps, settings are preserved (as much as possible) or a clean install, where what you are getting is, as you ask, a new install of Windows. In either case a large number of system components are changed for new ones, and you may well notice changes in performance. The SIZE of the download ISO is around 4.4 GB with minimum options, which gives you some idea of the amount of software being deployed. The Windows.old folder, in line with this, will be multi-gigabytes in size. The Update Tuesday monthly releases are patches however.

[EDIT] I see that while I was typing this others have got there first!


The odd thing about this was that, it all started with shutting down the computer and it gave a choice to perform an update & restart. So I let it do its thing. I didnt do any manual install of a newer version of Windows 10 so it did everything on its own as a normal update would.

The good thing is that the system is running better after this, and I was able to undo what the update broke very easily given that there was a shortcut added to my desktop to restore and re-enable what Windows disabled and that shortcut removed itself when complete with this process.

When I get home from work today I will see what the history shows for versions and patch history to share more on this.

As per what Quantos said Quote

Since the last update or so my login picture keeps changing to anything but the one I want, I also noticed that after updates part of my music library has to be reloaded - I don't know if that has anything to do with the updates or if it's another 'undocumented feature'

Either set the background to Spotlight, which means basically that Microsoft chooses your picture, or you can set it to a specific picture or a slideshow.

how do I change windows to 7For starters you need a legal copy of Windows 7. Then hunt down all drivers you will need while you have that connection through windows 10 to make sure proper drivers exist first and download them to a thumb drive. Next when you know that the computer is supported by 7, install 7 and install drivers. Then a bunch of security patching and you should be all set.Did you have Win 7 previously ? ?Link that might be relevant:
How to Downgrade From Windows 10 to Windows 7 or Windows 8.1 
However, that is an old link. The rule may have chnged.
Hee is a more recent article that claims you can do it legit.

5 Ways to Downgrade from Windows 10
He sahys it is easy, then he goes on to say taht if you never had Windows 7 it is not so easy. What he then offeres seems to be boraderline    Quote from: patio on December 20, 2017, 01:48:37 PM

Did you have Win 7 previously ? ?

Geek i've been thru this before with you ....Win7 for 30 Bucks is NOT legit...no matter what you think google will or will not allow.

Last time i'm reminding you.

So it's PROBABLY a stupid question, but before updating to Windows 10, I could close the lid of my LAPTOP, it would go to sleep, and then when I would open it and sign in again, all of my programs would STILL be up and running. Now, upon rebooting my laptop, everything has been closed out of. If PHOTOSHOP or another program had been opened, it is now gone. I even have to restore all of my tabs on Chrome, as though the laptop had unexpectedly restarted. Is there any way with Windows 10 to set it to where all my programs remain up and running, even while the computer is closed? THANKS. https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-other_settings/win-10-computer-wont-lock-or-sleep-when-lid-is/d1214504-d926-4fac-a914-4e4e5d2b1605?auth=1


Have you tried this?

I have an HP 350 G1 Laptop running Windows 10 Pro, and recently have noticed that my Start Menu no longer opens when I click on the Windows icon in the taskbar.  The Windows Store icon doesn't work, either.  I've already tried entering the following commands in an administrator-level powershell window:

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
(The System File Checker said it didn't find anything)

sfc /scannow
(Didn't find anything)

Get-AppXPackage -AllUsers | Foreach {Add-AppxPackage -DisableDevelopmentMode -Register “$($_.InstallLocation)\AppXManifest.xml”}
(This just STALLS and never completes)

I would love some help to get my start menu back, if possible.  Thanks in advance for any help!Is this Windows 10 a legally installed Windows 10 or one that was acquired though a download other than Microsoft which is flawed?

Has this system been infected with a VIRUS that would attack this part of the OS to prevent removal of malware?left field approach...

install ClassicShell to at least get a Start Menu you can navigate with.
(it's about to reach end of SUPPORT but fully functional for a while yet)
you can then uninstall it and see if that process resurrects the Windows Start Menu.To answer the first question:  I'm not sure if it's a legitimate copy of Windows, as I purchased the laptop USED with Windows 10 pre-installed.  How would I check this?

It has not been infected with a virus any time recently, to my knowledge.

And I tried installing Classic Shell (which made the start menu work only while it was installed), but got the following errors during the installation: 

WARNING 1946.  Property 'System.AppUserModel.ID' for shortcut 'Start Menu Settings.lnk' could not be set.
Warning 1946.  Property 'System.AppUserModel.ExcludeFromShowInNe wInstall' for shortcut 'Start Screen.lnk' could not be set.

Any further help is much appreciated.I'd backup your data to a thumb drive. If your unable to do this in the current state that the system is in then get a live distro of Linux such as ubuntu or mint installation DVD or a bootable USB stick and boot to Linux. Then copy your important data to an external drive. When done with this then reinstall Windows 10 clean. You may or may not need a Windows 10 key to do this. The key might be on the BIOS in which none is needed.

Basically a reinstall is my suggestion at this point. If you dont have any important data to save them skip the Linux stuff and just install 10 clean.

I have going through a very bad situation in windows 10 my spotlight isn't working stuck on a same picture i have tried every solution googled everything but nothing worked i really LOVE the windows 10 spotlight i was using window spotlight perfectly on my enterprise edition then i decided to install windows 10 pro edition after INSTALLING i linked my Microsoft account and now i am stuck with this PROBLEM for permanently i have send feedback to Microsoft and i hope when another windows update come there will be a cure for my problem and i have messed i have deleted some things from my spotlight folder but i think there is a way to fix my problem i need Microsoft.Windows.ContentDeliveryManage r_cw5n1h2txyewy folder from a working windows who is using window spotlight perfectly thanks.







Windows specifications,

Edition Windows 10 Pro
Version 1709
OS Build 16299.125

Processor. Installed memory (RAM): System type: Pen and TOUCH:
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E7500 2.93GHz 2.93 GHZ 4.00 GB (3.21 GB usable) 32-bit Operating System, x64-based processor No Pen or Touch Input is available for this Display


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]We should chat then.  I keep trying to get mine to not change the picture

  How many pictures do you have in the folder that it points to? 

How can I update drivers in w-10 without paying a fee?
I need a howtoDrivers are free...Post as much info on the PC as you can and we will assist...

NOTE: Do not use any advertised driver finder apps...they are all garbage.My computer is really slow.I was ordering from Walmart and I couldn't go to checkout.
It takes so long to go to sites. My email stuff works ok.I tried to restore back a month
and it won't successfully do it. I get an error 0x80070005.I cleaned up my computer with
tempory files and a bunch of other things but didn' help.here is what one site TOLD me was bad.
I think it was sims.Which charges you.
high precisin event timer
system devices       bad drives
realtek high definition audio
sound ,vedio and game controllers
memory controller
system devices
motherboard resources
system device
pci-to pci bridge
system
pci express root complex
intell(r) management engine interface
realtek pcie gbe family controllerI meant PC hardware info...not error messages...

Are you saying WalMart is charging for drivers ? ?...if so they are more EVIL than i ever thought...No not Walmart,I think the site wanting to charge is Sims .Do NOT send them a dime...
Post your hardware info as i ASKED and we'll hunt down your drivers...How do I get that info you need to analize my computerJust provide the make and model of your computerjOHNSON-HP
processor INTEL(R) CORE(TM) I3-2120 CPU 3.30ghz 3.30 ghz
Installed ram 4.00 gb
Device ID c7498bed-9c6a-4b93-A3e6-A433434Db96b
Product ID 00326-10000-00000-AA848
system type 64-bit operating system,x64-based processor
Pen and touch input is available for this display
Which HP ? ?...what MBoard ? ?
Thats where the critical drivers are...

I can access hotel main hotel sites (same as Agoda) but my browser won't open any further to individual hotels.
My screen just flashes and stays on the home page.

This is not just on hotel sites but any site where there is an option to select more.

I am using Chrome but would prefer Internet Explorer.

Any help/suggestions appreciated.OS and Build?
Chrome version?
any extensions installed?

have you TRIED other BROWSERS when SURFING "an option to select more"?, like Firefox or Opera?
I was considering uninstalling Chrome as I don't really understand it. Yes I did have 2 extensions and maybe I should remove those first.

I FOUND out yesterday that I don't have Internet Explorer via Edge which is what I've used on all my computers since for ever. Priority TODAY is to try and find that.

Dunno where to find ''an option to select more''It may be the site...Post a link and we'll check...

Hi everyone,

I've recently purchased an ASUS GL702VM ROG Strix laptop (just 2 weeks ago) and it's been working fine until this morning. Now one of the keys does not respond properly (the number 1 key in this case). Whenever I click it, it produces a long string of 1s (like what you'd expect if you hold down a key). If I hold it down, nothing happens. Sometimes it begins typing a string of 1s all on its own (but SEEMS to stop after you insistently hold down backspace). From what I can tell, it's the only button with a problem.

I'd like to point out that I've been very careful with this laptop - haven't spilled anything on it, didn't get any crumbs onto the keyboard. In appearance the key is perfectly fine - feels fine as well. To try resolving the issue I've run a virus scan (all clean), restarted the laptop and attempted to update and uninstall the keyboard drivers (nothing!)

Any ADVICE would be greatly appreciated, thank you!111111111111111111111111111111111111111 1111111111111111111I would return it immediately under warranty...demand a replacement...not a repair. That is well within your rights.That would be a last resort, of course. If there is a way to fix it then I'd greatly prefer it though, as it would save me a lot of trouble. So I'd like to explore my options before giving up on itThe option i mentioned is your best course of action...
What if you fix it...and the issue re-surfaces 6 days out of Warranty ...which is COMMON for PC's...what then ? ?sounds like a hardware problem, so a hardware solution would be required, that is, a replacement.You should really pay attention to what Patio said, you paid for a working laptop, use the warranty that you paid for

Hello! First off I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to computers, so bear with me:

I was playing in my 5 years old computer when a Windows (10) Update started downloading and slowing my computer down to unbearable levels (opening a folder could take up to 10 seconds when it would normally open smoothly in under a second). I decided to leave my computer downloading it all night and the next day I was required to reboot my computer in order to apply the update, upon doing that my computer entered in a forever REBOOTING cycle where it starts booting showing those BIOS options, then it proceeds to show the windows icon with those rotating balls implying it's loading, and then it goes black and back to the BIOS settings, etc.

I've tried reseating RAM as it was pointed to me it could be the problem, after that the PC now sometimes completely powers down and up again, but only sometimes (I tried holding the power supply cable while it was booting and that seemed to make the whole POWERING down better) but it still goes into the infinite reboot cycle...

I'm sorry for not knowing exactly which details are important to point out, but I'll gladly give you any system specs that I can, or any circumstances that might be relevant!Welcome to the forum.
Some of us hafe used Windows for years and are having a hard time with Windows 10 updates. At this point, you can try to do a recovery. But they is a catch.

The catch is that you need to install DVD or some other method to repair the computer. From what uu describe, it had gone beyound that point.

Do yu have the DVD used to install Windows 10 ?
If so, boot it up and look for a place where issays you can repair you computer.

But if you do not have the DVD or USB stick used to install winwos 10, you hare going to find it more difficult.
Look at this Goolge search  answer:
Quote

Search instead for how to repai Windows 10
Search Results
Navigate to the Windows 10 ADVANCED Startup Options menu.
    Once your computer has booted, you'll want to select Troubleshoot.
    And then you'll need to click Advanced options.
    Click Startup Repair.
    Windows will take anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes to attempt to fix the problem. ...
    Click System Restore.

When online, I need to upload some photos or artwork to my web page. But in Windows 10 I can not SEE any thumbnail view and I have to try and remember the name of the photo or graphic I want. 

That is on of the main reasons I still use Windows XP.  For  me, Windows 10 is a retro back to the days of console input. I can not see anything graphic. Maybe I am missing something. There must be some way to see a thumbnail view of all the files in my media directories. Right? 

So, my question is, how can a make Windows 10 into a real Graphical User Interface?
Specifically, How can I see a little thumbnail for each image in a directory?

I tried Google and all I got was a reference to Expression 2, which in not included in Windows 10. Or is it? 
EDIT This was found.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/176882/how-to-enable-the-thumbnail-view-for-folders-in-windows-explorer
But I don't understand it.   
It depends on what dialog is being USED to display the files for upload.  For instance, if I use the file upload feature of this forum, I get the dialog shown below and can easily display images by selecting from the dialog settings.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space] Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 21, 2017, 11:40:02 AM

So, my question is, how can a make Windows 10 into a real Graphical User Interface?
Specifically, How can I see a little thumbnail for each image in a directory?

In File Explorer, go to the folder with your images, then along the top menu of File, Home, Share etc, click View and pick one of the icon views.
is this what you were chasing?

I do not know if I am on the right forum or not but I thought I'd start here.  I am having trouble with Windows LIVE Mail 2012 trying to send an email.  I was on the phone for an hour with Comcast trying to get this straightened out and they made it worse.  When I open Live Mail, all the mail from my Xifinity goes right into it.  It will not do that now.  If I try to send an email, I get a message that says:  An unknown error has occurred.  Server smtp.comcast.net, Windows Live Error ID:  0x8007007A, Protocol SMTP, Port 587. 

So I call Comcast and the girl had me change my port numbers, and we would try some things...long story short, I now have about five email accounts with the same email address.  How do I get rid of them?  When trying to execute getting mail, a box pops up to tell me what the email is doing, and it goes down the line of emails and tells me it is trying one, then says that failed, then tries the next which also fails, etc., for 5 times.  I know that is not right but it comes from her trying to get my email working again and repeating the same steps over and over, hence all the email accounts even though they are all the same email address.  I can USE Comcast's mail, but there are times when I want to send pictures to someone and for some reason, I cannot do that with Comcast mail, which is why I use my Windows Live.

Now, before this all started, I would be on Windows Live Mail, finish what I'm doing and X out of it.  After I X'd out, a box would come up saying Windows Live Mail is restarting, and then it restarts.  I do not know why it is doing that when it never did before.  I have changed no settings on my Live Mail.

So, did I give you guys enough information to help, or do I need to give you more?  You all know I'm not all that computer savvy and explained it as best as I could.  Oh yeah, I have Windows 10 if that makes a difference.
Quote

there are times when I want to send pictures to someone

Now, before this all started, I would be on Windows Live Mail, finish what I'm doing and X out of it.  After I X'd out, a box would come up saying Windows Live Mail is restarting, and then it restarts.  I do not know why it is doing that when it never did before.  I have changed no settings on my Live Mail.

My desktop background color is light blue, but when I hover over to any desktop icon the said icon color turns to black.
What's more annoying is that when I OPEN the icon, the background color of the page thus OPENED is ALSO black.
I am on Windows 10.

Is there a simple and straightforward method to SOLVE this problem, please?

Many thanks in advance  for your patience and help.

Guzeppithere are lots of ways to customize Windows 10. See the following for some examples

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-customize-your-windows-10-experience

Microsoft has a new (some months old) PROGRAM(?) to download and run for you to get the better experience for Windows 10.  It will help my Cortana to be used better(?) and overall helpful for me.  Is this so?  I am not sure what it does (okay, you guys already know I am not computer savvy from previous posts over the years) and if I need it.  I keep telling the daily reminder to Just Snooze!  Should I install this on my computer?  Is it necessary?  And if not, how do I get rid of the daily reminder?  I don't like messing with my computer anymore than I need to as I would probably screw things up and make it worse and not be able to get out of my mess, and then I'd have to be on here again asking how to fix it!  Whew! 
Sounds fishy to me...

Post the link from the popup.I think she may be referring to the Fall Creator's Update (1709) or even the previous Creator's Update (1703).I didn't get the notice today, but I will try to send it when it pops up again.  I don't know if it's an update or a new thing. I was assuming it was something new to enhance my "experience" with Cortana.  Apparently they think our "experiences" with Windows 10 is not enough...so they made Cortana better!!!???!!!
It could be as strollin stated above...to be safe though lets wait for the link...This item from Wikipedia has been recently update and has some 400 plus references about Windows 10 updates or related things.

Windows 10 version history

Quote

Version 1607 (Anniversary Update)

Windows 10 Mobile Anniversary Update, or Windows 10 version 1607, codenamed "Redstone 1",[204][205][207][404] is the second major update to Windows 10 and the first in a series of updates planned under the Redstone codenames.[207][405][406] It carries the build number 10.0.14393. The first preview was released on December 16, 2015. It was released to the public on August 2, 2016.[210][211][212] The Redstone 1 release of Windows 10 is supported for users of the Current Branch (CB) and Current Branch for Business (CBB).

am currently using windows 7,, and i have got another HDD to INSTALL windows 10,, i DONT known the neccessary requirement for windows 10,,, i have 6gb ram, HDD 200GB 32bit,,, Google is your friend: https://www.google.com/search?q=windows+10+hardware+requirements&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Allan is correct the first result of that search will tell you what you need

in my experience 6GB RAM and 200GB HDD is PLENTY for Win10 to be HAPPY. I've never run the 32-bit version but I think it's safe to say it will run fineThe follwing link will help you to check if Windows 10 will run on your pc.

http://www.zdnet.com/article/will-your-pc-run-windows-10-use-this-well-hidden-compatibility-checker-to-find-out/

I noticed Windows 10 had a small NUMBER of updates to install. Just malicious software removal tool and things like this. Nothing that I would have thought would take much time.

When I last shut down my computer the message came up: "getting windows ready, don't turn off your computer."

When I next went to the computer, 12 hours later, the message was still there. I tried restarting multiple times but the message still shows up and I can't get past it. I booted to the advance boot options menu and tried getting in through safemode but no luck. It just returns to the getting windows ready screen.

I have read that this could be caused to some KIND of corruption with windows update and that deleting the files in the software distribution folder and starting over can solve it. The only problem: I can't get into my system at all to do this.

Does anyone know how I can bypass this screen and access my desktop again?

THANKS for your help.It does not take 12 hours.
If a windows instal is taking more taht one hour and there is no apparent reason, you have to start over. Assume there was a hardware compatilility issue and make some shange in your first  hardware environment.

Example: A user tries to install Windows 10 with a new video card. Windows 10 can not install the card and can not give a suitable error message. The user has to stop the install.
Next he removes the video cafrd and tryks again using only the video on the motherboard. This time Windows 10 installs, but with the built-in vidoe card. Now the user follows thi instructions of the maker of the card and the card is soon working in Windows 10.
Th instructions of the make sspecified to install ony after windows is already installed. The user somehow thought taht did not APPLY to him.

Now that might be your case. Maybe it was anothe issue. Perhaps you have a defective hard drive. Are you installing a SSD? You may have to start witha plain HDD install and then migrate to a SSD.

Otrhers have had problems like this.
Windows 10 Ver 1709 won't finish install

If in doubt, install Windows with athe least hardware needed to do the install and then add in the better hardware after you get a perfect install.

Does that help any?    To be honest only time i see this is when Users interrupt the update process...is that what happened ? ?I would recommend performing the following as first steps to try and repair. Let us know if this works or not.

1. Go to Start and type in cmd
2. Right-click on the cmd icon above, and click (Run As Administrator)
3. Type each of the following commands separately after each one runs
sfc /Scannow - hit Enter key
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth - hit Enter key​4. RESTART and run Windows update

Hello! I've tried to research all over the internet to solve my problem for an entire week, but I failed to fix it.

Here's the problem: My laptop screen freezes every time I move my mouse.

I am a digital artist/animator, and I must be very precise in my art. However, with my computer pausing every other second, it makes my line work jagged and uneven. When I do a long stroke, and my computer freezes, my mouse skips from one place to another, causing a weird straight line.
This happens when I move my mouse. When I draw, I use a Wacom Intuos Pen Tablet.

However, this doesn't only occur when I draw. It occurs when I do normal things, such as surfing the web and looking through social media, but only when I move my mouse.

My computer does not freeze when I watch a video;it is smooth. However, if I were to move my mouse around while watch the video at the same time, the entire computer freezes.
However, my audio is different; does not freeze even If I move my mouse.

I use my laptop's mouse pad to navigate, and experimented by also trying a USB mouse. It still pauses every other second with the USB mouse. Also with my pen tablet. Since they all serve the same purpose; to navigate around the computer, they all act the same way.

My computer details:
Dell - Inspiron 3541, BOUGHT in the early autumn of 2015. Windows 10.

Here are many things I've already done but failed:
- I tried to use different types of navigation: my laptop mouse pad, a USB mouse, and an intuos pen tablet. They all equally caused the computer to freeze every other second when I use them. | This means that the type of mouse I'm using isn't the problem.
- I removed many unnecessary applications, photos, videos, etc. They all amounted to around 6 GB, but it did not do anything to ease the problem. My computer still has "338 GB free of 455 GB" according to the OS (C:) thing. | This concludes that computer space is not the problem.
- I performed an anti-virus check on my computer (using a free AVG application), and it is free of viruses. It is very easy for me to remove virus-causing things, so there is definitely no viruses.
- After all of these, I reset my computer.  Although I allowed it to keep my files (I still have many animation/art projects to complete), it removed all of the applications, and made my computer start afresh.
This reset, however, did nothing to fix my problem. My computer still froze every other second for a second whenever I moved my mouse.
- I troubleshoot my computer on the Dell website, taking a Diagnostic test.
I passed every test, and it said that there are no errors detected.
- I checked if my drivers are up-to-date, and yes. they are up-to-date.
- Yes, my computer is up-to-date. The time that I saw this problem was a few hours BEFORE I updated to the most recent update. I updated, and the problem is still evident.
- I have no warrant for my computer, especially since it was from 2015, so I can't really send in my computer.

Extra information: If i played games, such as ROBLOX or a Steam game, my computer works perfectly. It does NOT pause at all, and is smooth, even if I move my mouse a lot. If I were to move my mouse from the game screen to the Taskbar and moved my mouse around in that AREA, my computer freezes; in other words, my computer freezes whenever I move my mouse, but NOT when I play games.
This is interesting, and I am unsure why this is.
I am desperate to solve this problem, because I need to complete my animation as soon as possible.

If you have any tips or suggestions, I would sincerely appreciate your help! I will take any response!

Thank you so much!


 I would check the HDD health with the free diags from the HDD manuf. site...and after you try that, I would restart the PC into Safe Mode and see if it happens there as well.
if not, then it's SOFTWARE that is getting loaded normally that isn't loaded for Safe Mode.
mind you, pinpointing that software is going to be trial and error.

when did this first start happening and does that tie into a software/hardware change? Quote

I am a digital artist/animator, and I must be very precise in my art. However, with my computer pausing every other second, it makes my line work jagged and uneven. When I do a long stroke, and my computer freezes, my mouse skips from one place to another, causing a weird straight line.
This happens when I move my mouse. When I draw, I use a Wacom Intuos Pen Tablet..

The list time the external pen worked flawlessly was when Bill Gates was interested in it back in Windows XP days ...

For the first four months of a Win10 version's initial release, users are actually working as unpaid beta testers for Microsoft on the not-yet-stable version

You might try a prior version of Windows 10 and Not allow any updates.

How can Windows 10 users stop updates?

Hi there,

I have created standard user account to a PC and was wondering how I can give that account permission to allow to download from the internet?Are you using Windows 10?

What browser are you using?

What message does the user get when he/she tries to download a file?Does he have any connection to the Internet?
When you set up the network, did hyou use settings for a home sustes, a business system or for use on a public system?
In a Business setup, there may be restrictions that can only be set by the person named by the company ans system administrator.
Otherwise, in a home system there should not be any RESTRICTION. He will have download priveliges. But the Anti-Virus program might stop some downloads from some sites.

Do that ANSWER you r question? 

If not, this may be what you need to know:
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd919180(v=ws.10).aspx
Quote

The standard user account type in Windows 7 provides a limited set of permissions needed for most non-administrative APPLICATION scenarios.

It worked fine before I updated to the latest windows version, Iv'e RESTARTED the computer and monitor to no avail. The boot SEQUENCE of the computer displays correct colors and the settings menu in the monitor ALSO has correct colors. try booting the PC into Safe Mode.
if Windows 10, hold Shift down when clicking Restart will achieve this.
if the colours are OK in Safe Mode, chances are it's your video card.
first thing to try would be to visit its website and DOWNLOAD the latest DRIVER.

Hey, I know Windows and Computer in general wear down by time, but I had this "not too bad" computer BOUGHT only a year ago and it already feels like 4 gb Windows XP I had many years ago. The issue of it basically that usual everyday processes on the computer became not just longer, but they take a lot of power. For example just by opening Chrome browser with some links opened, it takes 80% of memory, not even talking about playing games.
I often see some random files with random names popping up asking to close them and in Task Manager, and my assumption is that I've got some kind of a virus and I don't know what to do, reinstall Windows or just UPDATE RAM or processor, I really don't know.
It's not just the internal problems, my monitor goes to sleep when I shut down my computer, but the computer still is on for another 5-10 MINUTES. It's very loud when I turn it on COMPARED how quiet it was a year ago, and I'm not a tech guy either, so I would be extremely thankful if someone from forum would advice me, thanks )

Here's some SPEC of mine
https://imgur.com/a/1PhaX

Why is it that SOMETIMES my inbox g-mails are deleted automatically when I am sure i have not deleted them?
And is there a way to retrieve them?  Have tried ALL MAIL, but no success.

Thank you beforehand for your help, particularly as this matter is driving me crazy!

JOE BusuttilWhat other devices connect to this gmail and what are their rules set to for e-mail?

Could it be possible that someone else has your password and is just DELETING them on you? (CHANGING password and security reset QUESTIONS might fix it is thats the case )Are you using it as an imap server. If so, any device that deletes an email is automatically deleted on all devices.

Hello, I have a laptop running the latest public update for Windows 10. As I turned it on yesterday I got four different error messages for four processes which included IAStorIcon.exe, TOASTER.exe, and DropboxOEM.exe. The messages read as follows:
 
IAStorIcon.exe - Assert Failure
Expression: [mscorlib recursive resource lookup bug]
Description: Infinite recursion during resource lookup within mscorlib. This may be a bug in mscorlib, or potentially in certain extensibility points such as assembly resolve events or CultureInfo names. Resource name: Arg_ExternalException.
Abort/Retry/Ignore
 
I get these messages and the computer won't let me do anything else, no matter which option I click on the messages the computer won't do anything else. I can move the mouse around and click on stuff but no programs open, the start menu doesn't open, Ctrl+Alt+Supr does nothing, right clicking does nothing. It basically only lets me move the mouse. I tried to boot into safe mode and the first time it gave me a blue screen of death with the stop code: CRITICAL PROCESS DIED. It loaded all the way up to 100% and then it STOOD there for half an hour, until I forcefully shutdown the computer. Next time I was able to boot into the blue screen that lets you use a restore point but the time of restore point was from after this problem started so it did nothing. What can I do and how can I do it? My computer is PRETTY much unusable after signing in so that COMPLICATES things a bit.
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.Sounds like a very serious problem, I would perform a system restore.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12415/windows-10-recovery-optionsMost likely malware/virus. Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 14, 2017, 11:12:01 AM

Most likely malware/virus.

I have an Acer Aspire E 15 6GB DDR3 L Ram, 1GB HDD and an Intel Core i5-4210U 1.7GHz with Turbo Boost up to 2.7GHz.  My computer runs very very slowly, and someone suggested looking at the Resource Monitor.  Then I found this (refer to screenshot attached) - only 2MB of free RAM.  What?!?!! How can I increase my free RAM, and is this what is causing my computer to be SLOW?

Thanks in advance,
Jokniserous

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]2144MB is actually available. So your not out of memory.

Computers can run slow when they run too HOT. I would check into system temperatures using speedfan or another tool to see if your system is running hot and as a means of avoiding melt down it might be thermal throttling which kills performance as the CPU will be driven lightly to avoid creating excess heat since there is a problem getting rid of heat.

Windows should have had added to it a thermal throttling warning to warn people that their computers are running too warm and so the system is throttling to protect itself which impacts performance. But they DONT unless a 3rd party program or you monitor and look for throttling with other tools.

If the CPU is running over 70C then its likely throttling. To correct for this you need to remove dust, or add a cooling pad, or have new thermal compound INSTALLED, or new heatsink if heatsink failed, or new cooling fan if its not spinning to 100% speed causing reduced airflow.

http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php

Also guessing you meant you have a 1TB hard drive vs 1GB in your description

Here is a video showing how to check for thermal throttling with a tool AIDA64 Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fY33oFBY_wJust so you know...every tab in Chrome takes up resources...this was their magic fix to speed it up so to speak...

I use Process Explorer which is a bit more advanced to check running processes etc...i believe there is still a Free ver. available. Quote from: DaveLembke on December 09, 2017, 10:57:06 AM

Windows should have had added to it a thermal throttling warning to warn people that their computers are running too warm and so the system is throttling to protect itself which impacts performance. But they dont unless a 3rd party program or you monitor and look for throttling with other tools.

I have an Acer Aspire E 15 6GB DDR3 L Ram

There appears to be a bug in the resource monitor.  It's true that in that one place it shows 2MB free but in other places on the screen it shows Free memory as 2146MB which is 2GB not 2MB.

The fact that you have 2GB of free memory indicates that a shortage of memory is NOT the cause for your computer to be running slow.  Can you post screenshots of the CPU and Disk tabs of the Resource Monitor?

There appears to be a bug in the resource monitor.  It's true that in that one place it shows 2MB free but in other places on the screen it shows Free memory as 2146MB which is 2GB not 2MB.

in other places on the screen it shows Free memory as 2146MB which is 2GB not 2MB

HP HP Pavilion Desktop PC 570-pOXX.
Windows 10 Home (X64) Version 1703

This is a new computer and the first I've had with UEFI. Until today I could not boot to usb or dvd. After considerable research I found my WAY into UEFI setup and disabled fast boot and boot security, and changed the boot order to usb/dvd/hd. No satisfaction. Desperate, I found HP Support and the agent suggested I make a usb repair drive USING MS RecoveryDrive.exe. It took an hour to complete but to my suprise it booted! (Not directly, there was a menu offering the usb or the hard drive.)

My question is, what did MS do to make this disk boot that no other burning process did? (I have an unbootable Macrium Recovery disk and Win 10 ISO disk burned with BurnAware.

Also same PROBLEM with dvd. I assume that whatever applies to usb also works for dvd.Really, I don't know.
Bear in mind that Intel and others did a lot of work on the UEFI specs.
Unified Extensible Firmware Interface
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Extensible_Firmware_Interface

You can go to You Tube and search for
USB Boot with UEFI
Here is one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRxVt_Zd3qo
There are a lot of video on this. 
Quote from: tcebob on August 28, 2017, 08:01:10 PM

HP HP Pavilion Desktop PC 570-pOXX.
Windows 10 Home (X64) Version 1703
...

My question is, what did MS do to make this disk boot that no other burning process did? (I have an unbootable Macrium Recovery disk and Win 10 ISO disk burned with BurnAware.

Also same problem with dvd. I assume that whatever applies to usb also works for dvd.

Hello

I use my Win XP PC as a back-up for my Win 10 files and folders.

I use SyncToy to do that. Recently, I have had to reset my network connections and I can't remember the Win XP path I need to copy the Win 10 files to.

In Sync Toy, my Win 10 PC wants to copy files from C:\Users\Steve\Documents\Visual STUDIO 2013\ but how do I get the correct path to that XP folder? The XP PC is called SteveXP and the folder to be transferred should be pasted over the folder here:
D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013.

Thank you.


         



I have a couple of questions/concerns first.

I don't trust SyncToy.  I first came across it about 3 years ago when someone was using it and there were issues.
upon comparing the SOURCE and target locations, we discovered files that were not being backed up and could not find a logical reason.
if you can't completely trust your backup software, time for it to go.

and why are you copying system files, over a network, to another PC as your backup methodology.
don't get me wrong, any sort of backup is better than none, but realise only data can be backed up, software must be reinstalled.
you mention backing up your Win10 files and folders, you're not going to be able to 'copy' them back from your XP PC and magically restore Windows.

sounds like you could kill two birds with one stone if you switched over to a system imaging software, like Macrium Reflect Free.

I'm also confused as to your issue, you mention the source folder and where you want to put it, so what's the problem, does it give an error message or something?Hello Mark

Thanks for your SPEEDY reply.

The 2 PCs are on the same desk in front of me and use the same wireless router.

The XP PC has about 300Gb of spare hard drive and can afford to bear the task of carrying an extra load, so to speak.

I imagined that if my Win10 crashed irretrievably, I could at least access the WinXP PC and rescue the necessary files (even though I cannot use them on XP). In other words, I use it as a CD/DVD disk.

Well, SyncToy asks me to browse to the folder on my Win 10 machine, which I do, and it gives the correct path. Then it asks for the path to XP and where I want to copy the files to on the XP PC.

In XP, I would like the folder to be copied to: D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013 (D is my hard drive on the XP PC), but I need to use the name of my XP computer before I can give SyncToy the full path - something like: SteveXP\D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013, but that doesn't look right.

I will look up Macrium Reflect Free, thanks!Having more that one backup is a conservation idea.

May I make a observation.
You are using directories that are system managed. That is, the structure of the OS wants those directories to be under the direct control of the system.

Here is what I do, using two computers with disparate OS.
On each computer I create a new partition that is only used for either documents or portable programs. And I set the folders to hide system files that have to be in the directories for some reason.

So each computer has a drive D: that is only for documents and other thigns that are not integrated into the operating system file structure.

I would NOT use
D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013

Instead, something that is not a part of the default file structure.
Like maybe:
D:\MyJunk\BackupImage
Which is easy remember and is not manged by the OS.
The backup image contains fines created by Maximum Reflect. For personal use the is not issue having it installed on more than one PC. At any time you can ask Maximum Reflect to mount a image file and it will let you see your stuff in a virtual drive. Normally you would  not use the virtual drive to do things. It is meant to be a way to peek into the backup archive to recover something you might have ruined. It happens.

I hope this might help some. 

EDIT: For me, it is easier to work with drives rather that deep directories. I break my hard drive into a lot of  partitions and use a partition for a special project I want to be separate from other things. No idea why that app would need the PC name if the correct destination path is given...can you recheck that and try again ? ?Hello Patio

Because the PC name (the name of the XP computer) is part of D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013.

When I typed in to SyncToy that path above, only like that, it gave me an error because the D drive on Win 10 where SyncToy is installed is my CD/DVD drive. That is, SyncToy needs the name of my XP PC before it can arrive at D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013 (on the XP PC, the D drive is the main drive and not any CD/DVD drive), of you see what I mean.

With putting the name of my XP PC before any path such as D:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\Shared documents\Visual Studio 2013, I was asking it to send a letter to 7, Charles St without naming the city or country - hence the error.

Anyway, I have now downloaded and installed Reflect and will take a look at it - there's a fair amount of documentation to digest!

Thanks again.


Hello Geek

From what I understand, you create partitions as kind of safe-houses, hidden away, so to speak?If you only back-up files that are not OS dependent, how do you back-up files that are system dependent on different OS?For the Os itself, I make a 'clone' of the  whole  drive. Maybe once a month. More often, once a week, I make images of the places where I store my data I use.
Maximum Reflect is very veritable and is, IMO, the best free backup program out there. Look here:
https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/7363/macrium-reflect-is-a-free-and-easy-to-use-backup-utility/
In the above he warns you about how some of the built-in backup methods of Windows might fail you when you need it the most. An excellent feature of MR is the ability to crate a 'rescue CD' before you need it. The CD has a bookable version of the Windows PE **  so that you can find the backup device and restore the lost  partition or drive.

** Windows Preinstallation Environment (Windows PE) 2.0 is a minimal Win32 operating system with limited SERVICES, built on the Windows Vista kernel. It is used to prepare a computer for Windows installation, to copy disk images from a network file server, and to initiate Windows Setup.

Notice that Maximum Reflect has a learning curve issue. You have to practice on snuff that does not matter until you get it right.

But I also use Sync toy to update my work SPACE. Sync toy does a good  job  of updating just the things that have changed in my data files. 

Sync Toy Download:
http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/File-Management/SyncToy.shtml

Sync Toy requires some run time libraries from the .NET stuff.

As for bookmarks and passwords, I save them in a different way. I have two methods of saving passwords. But that is another topic.    Quote

When I typed in to SyncToy that path above, only like that, it gave me an error because the D drive on Win 10 where SyncToy is installed is my CD/DVD drive.

Can anyone recomend, please, a site where to acess online for free  some of the great classical films, e. g. My FAIR Lady; Gandhi; A man for all seasons;etc?

At age 79, I am becoming nostalgic about the past.

 Thanks beforehand from a grateful  GUZEPPIThose films are copyrighted and not available for free on online.Netflix donas not stream 'My Fair Lady'.
However, there is a DVD version available.
Netflix wants about $11 a month and lets you RENT DVDs via US mail service.

On Amazon you can buy a DVD version for about $10, if you have PRIME.

But it is NEVER free.

I will be 79 next month. 


Becoming an Amazon Prime member might be worthwhile for you.   I am a member and I see that My Fair Lady is available for free online viewing for Prime members. By online viewing, I mean WATCHING the movie on your computer and in your web browser.

I was recently given a HP 360 Pavilion with Linux Mint. I don't know how to use this. I have a flash drive with the windows version I want. How can I change this laptop back to Windows 10. Thanks in advance Michael.make sure you backup onto external medium any data you want KEPT first.

but if you plug in your USB stick with Windows on it, and have told the BIOS to include USB as a boot option (or press F12 or F9, can't remember the exact key to bring up the boot choices during STARTUP) then that start the installation straight from the stick.

make sure you have your Windows key handy and the USB stick needs to be set have a bootable ISO image on it, not just simply coping a Windows version to it.Be prepared to chase down drivers maybe too. If the laptop initially came with 10 and your installing 10 back on it you might get lucky and not need to chase down drivers. Drivers are best downloaded from the manufacturer of the laptop. But if unavailable from manufacturer then you have to chase them down from the chip maker such as RealTek Audio drivers etc and knowing which chip it is etc.

My daughters laptop recently I installed Windows 10 32-bit Home EDITION to it and it was missing Network and Sound driver support from Dell. I had to chase down drivers which was a pain since it was made initially for Windows Vista. I chased down Intel Driver for Network Adapter to get that working, but for sound I had to add a USB sound card which was driver SUPPORTED to Windows 10.

If laptop initially came with Windows 10 you can ALSO use the original installation media. If this is unavailable you can contact the maker of the laptop and get the media to install it clean like new. If covered by warranty this is usually free if not covered by warranty there is usually a fee of around $35 for them to mail you the discs or thumb drive to install from.

My PC is hanging for less than a second every few minutes.  It happens regardless of the load.  It started when I installed my new cpu, and I've already replaced it to no avail.  I have attached my specs.
 
MOBO: A320MA-M.2
AMD Ryzen 3 1300X Quad-Core
8gb ddr4 2666 ghz RAM
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Tigo into Control Panel, SYSTEM, Device Manager, is ANYTHING coming and going as this 'hanging' thing happens?
any audible prompts?

If a PC (Bios 2011) appears not to support hot-plugging, is some remedy available short of replacing the motherboard ? [By hot-plugging I mean connecting a SATA hard drive and having it detected and accessible without the need to reboot the PC]Shot answer, Yes.
Long answer has some complications. You may 'Hot" swap a SATA  rive that has the hardware and software stuff needed. Such a drive might be called a eSATA.
Perhaps this might help:

Five eSATA Drives Reviewed

Quote

...because today, we’re watching the much more modern USB 2.0 port, as a data conduit, reach the end of its life. As a connector for peripherals it’s fine, but after you read this report, you’ll realize that external-serial ATA, or eSATA, is the future of the external hard drive connection.

I have Windows 10 with the latest update (1709 for x64) on my desktop computer. Recently, when I try to shutdown my computer, it begins the process and when it gets to the blue screen saying 'Shutting Down'... the computer freezes. I then have to do a 'hard' shutdown by pressing the POWER button on the tower. I have a feeling that the problem was in the recent major Windows Update.
I do not wish to continue to do hard shutdowns as I've heard this is not good for the computer.

Any suggestions for this issue?Why hard shutdowns "could" be bad is that if the hard drive or SSD is written to at the same time that it goes into a hard shutdown you can have a partially written file which makes for corruption and/or data loss. If no data is being written to the drive during the hard shutdown then your only at risk of whatever work you had open that wasnt already saved disappearing. If you perform a hard shutdown and the system is truly frozen without a write process happening then no damage will become of this.

That said however you never want to hard shutdown and then push the button on right away to boot. You will want the hard drive to spin down and come to rest first if there is one and wait about 10 seconds then boot the system back up if needed etc. If your system has a SSD you can wait 5 seconds and then reboot which gives the circuitry time to drain properly to avoid information from the prior run instance making its way to the next run instance of the system operation.

Event Log for the system might point out what is failing causing the hung state. Most of the time your looking at having to perform a Repair Installation of Windows or wipe the system clean and clean install of Windows to fix this.

There is a small chance it could be caused by a hardware failure such as a RAM STICK that has an issue to which memory is addressed on shutdown that it becomes hung. Other possibility is that the hard drive or SSD itself has an issue and trying to write information on shutdown hits this bad drive area.

It could also be caused by a driver update that came along with the Windows update, however most Windows 10 updates that driver problems occurred with, it affects the driver for whatever device was changed and it affects operation of say the Network Adapter for the whole time that the system is running the latest Windows 10, however prior editions of Windows 10 ran fine.

Backing up your data to a cloud storage or external and then clean install of 10 is usually the path most take to solving this. However I would suggest running Memtest86 on this system first just to make sure that its not a RAM issue on shutdown causing this with the writeback to drive from RAM which happens during the shutdown process. Let this test run for about 5 full tests. Anything that shows up in RED means you have a problem with a memory address and a RAM stick is the likely cause. https://www.memtest86.com/Thanks for your advice Dave.
I was unable to get the memory test to run, so that just leaves me with a complete Windows re-install. I hate to have to do that as I have a slow Internet connection, and that would take a very long time. Oh well.....    my two cents....

since it only happened after the WIn10 update, my guess would be perhaps some background SOFTWARE is not termination correctly when told to by Windows as it shuts down.
eg: your AV software, audio driver, cloud storage...

I would try running Secunia Personal Software Inspector and let it inform you of any outdated software.
may come to nought but hopefully avoids a fresh install of Windows.I haven't used Secunia for many a year now. Time to give it another try... thanks for the suggestion, Mark.    another test to support my theory would be to start the PC in Safe Mode and see if it shuts down normally from there.
if it does, that may lend a bit of credence to my logic.  Well, that's interesting. I can't get to change the settings so that the computer will boot into Safe mode. When trying, the computer gives me a blue screen saying that there were errors encountered and it will try to recover. It then restarts in normal mode. I've tried different methods.. getting the same result.   
For now, I'm simply not shutting it off at night.  don't know what you have tried but 3 ways I know of to get Win10 to start in safe mode.

1) hold down Shift key when you click Restart.
2) go into msconfig, Boot tab, and tick Safe boot and Restart.  (remember to untick once in Safe Mode or you'll always start in Safe Mode)
3) as Windows 10 starts, force it off by holding in power button, repeat 2 or 3 times and it'll pop up something like "failed to start, preparing Winodws" (or such) and it'll show the Advanced Startup Options menu.I tried your first suggestion and it worked! Yea.

I was then able to boot into Safe mode, and then I shut down the computer successfully. After it booted back up into normal mode, I again tried to shut down. This time, instead of freezing like it did before, a blue screen said that it had found errors and would try and re-start... which it did. So I still can not shut down UNLESS I do a 'hard' shutdown. sadly, one successful shutdown from Safe Mode may be too little to prove that point just yet. 
I would do a few and if successful then start believing we are on the right track.

since you got that slightly helpful message about 'repairing', let's go down that rabbit hole for now.
I would be doing 3 things next, start normally and from an elevated command prompt do

sfc /scannow
and
chkdsk c: /x/r      (ps: either of those switches implies /f so no need to include it)

once they are done, shutdown and cross your fingers, if it hangs, I would do my step 3 in how to get into Safe Mode and go into the ASO menu and do a repair of Windows.  (the one that says reload Windows but keep my apps and files)Just curious....why the /x switch ? ?
Quote

I would do a few and if successful then start believing we are on the right track.

Does anyone know how to copy text from an image USING one NOTE windows 10

example I will copy an image of snoopy with a text message. How can I copy the text and place it in WORD?
Thankyou
Rite clik image...select Save as...select DESTINATION...

For the text hold down left mouse button and highlight wanted text...Ctrl+C =copy...then when you have it Ctrl+V =paste...to wherever you want...
You can't cut and paste text from an image.  You could edit the image and crop it so that you only get the text but it's not possible to paste it into Word as text, you would need to insert the cropped image into Word.

You might be ABLE to run OCR (Optical Character Recognition) software against the image and it MIGHT be able to extract the text.  OCR software often comes packaged with a scanner so if you have a scanner it may have included OCR software.  If not, there are free OCR packages dfor download or even websites that you can upload the image to and run an OCR scan.  Use your favorite search engine and search for "OCR software".

Hi there,

So suddenly one day, my current laptop - lenovo yoga 510 (4gb ram, i3 processor, 125 gb ssd) started to work really slow. So I did fresh windows install, but the problem STILL persists the same. What could be the problem? I have done clean with the ccleaner, check task manager nothing suspicious. Any ideas?I'd check the HEALTH of that SSD with a tool like CrystalDiskInfo.  I had a SSD suddenly act sluggish and then it died on me.

I'd check the temperature of the Core i3 processor with SpeedFan to see if the system is running slower because the CPU is running too hot and is thermal throttling itself to stay alive where the CPU slows itself to avoid melt down.I have made a screenshot for that. What do you think ?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]First of all, I do not PRETEND to understand how solid state drive  WORKS.
But that program says the thing is good.
That all looks good for SSD Health and Temperature, at least the SSD is reporting healthy so it should be...

Is the laptop slow all the time or just specific stuff run on it? More info helpful.

Have you run any virus scans on this system?

If its just video choppy, I'd make sure that the video driver is up to date from Intel. Windows 10 has been known to kick out drivers and replace them and a generic graphics driver could make for a lesser performance with video and games.I guess it's slow when I am using chrome. In past, I didn't have this problem. I will try Firefox to see if the problem still persists.  I have done a fresh windows installation, so no viruses (including check with Malwarebytes and defender). Let's say even if I open a folder it takes a LONGER time to open (same speed as if there would be simple HDD).Did you remember to re-install ALL Lenovo drivers for Win10 ? ?
I guess I didn't, as I thought windows 10 did that automatically. Now I am lost, actually I can't remember if I did install or not, is there a way  how to check?No Windows version does it automatically...it loads generic drivers...

DLoad them from the Lenovo site and re-install all of them.
Chipset drivers 1st...then re-boot...then all others.I installed all drivers but it still was the same. Then I went on power option and clicked on 'high performance' now even processing go pro video, my small laptop works really fast. Would be that a case or just a luck (windows stopped installing updates)?