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So I was on the phone with a engineer from a international automation company that I cant specify here, because I dont want to bash the company name for what I feel is a engineer who might not know what he is talking about. While I myself do not know everything, the conversation I had about a problem with software with statistical reporting from sensors throughout the entire automation machine seemed wrong.

So the conversation started about me asking if there was any known bugs with the error reporting software that keeps statistics on the entire machines hundreds of sensors which record a run log as well as tach speeds, and ms delays between objects traveling between light barriers and what caught me as wrong, but maybe this engineer is correct is that he stated the following:

Windows is horrible for that machine because Windows OS ( XP ) can only handle a maximum of 10 interrupts at a given period of time to record up to 10 pieces of data sampled per sample interval, and yet he claims that Linux is better because it can handle a maximum of 1000 interrupts at a given period of time to record up to 1000 pieces of data from the various sensors. And so if you have your machine screaming at you from more than 10 locations with data reported back, it has to consolidate the errors as general error codes vs specific error codes, meanwhile if the machine was controlled by Linux OS, it wouldnt be overloaded and it would be able to handle say the 20 items at the same interrupt interval.

To me this 10 interrupt per sampled interval seems very small, and I would think that better programming is needed really which I was being blown off with the 10 interrupt smoke screen that others with less computer electronic and OS experience would just go with as it came from an engineer and so it must be true.

I would think that if you had such a limitation in how many pieces of information that could be reported back at a given period of time, that you would engineer a buffer of some sort either in programming code to store it locally or an intermediary device that is a data logger that communicates say serially to the PC. This data logger then can consolidate or spill its entire run of error logs and statistical information about speeds of  tachs and delays in ms etc.

BUT, the fact that the Hardware itself IS capable of handling all this info and it comes down to the difference of Windows XP and Linux OS in which there is a claim that the Windows XP OS is acting as an information gathering bottleneck basically, just had me shaking my head while I was on the phone like... ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! ?

To me it seems like they have some coding issues and they are just TRYING to sell us on the Linux version vs fixing flaws in their statistics portion of the software. Unfortunately while I do like Linux personally better, the business I work for is not going to be swapping out Windows XP for Linux based systems on their isolated from internet secure LAN automation machinery.

But for the fact that I do not know everything, I figured I'd ASK if anyone knows about such an Operating SYSTEM related bottleneck of Windows XP vs Linux in ability to gather information using exactly the same hardware between OS's?It sounds like their XP version is simply crappier. Neither XP nor Linux have any control over how frequently interrupts occur, gathering information from sensors would not entail trapping interrupts anyway. I agree that it was a smokescreen- make up some gobbedygook and hope you go away.

Quote

To me it seems like they have some coding issues and they are just trying to sell us on the Linux version vs fixing flaws in their statistics portion of the software.

An IBM compatible Desktop PC is NOT well suited to  get time-sensitive data over a network. Unless the data itself is "smart" and has time stamps embedded in the data.

Here is a general reference about the hardware interrupts for  an Intel system.
http://retired.beyondlogic.org/interrupts/interupt.htm#2

System software may disable interrupts for unspecified reasons.

Linux kernel can be customized for a specific application. It is not the same as a typical Linux distribution.

End of my two cents. 

So I was going to place my wifes HP Pavilion a6010n onto wireless and found an interesting issue that i am trying to resolve. Her system is the same as this system http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883107360  , although I upgraded her to a Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4Ghz with 4MB Cache CPU a few years ago since the 1.8Ghz was laggy when gaming.

Up til now she has had no problems with this system and I also upgraded her to Windows 7 32-bit Home Premium about 2 years ago and installed 3GB of DDR2-667Mhz RAM as ( 2 x 1GB + 2 x 512MB )

I went to install this linksys USB wireless NIC http://support.linksys.com/en-us/support/adapters/wusb54gc and installed the driver before inserting this USB NIC, and all was looking good.

Within the first 5 minutes I noticed that there was a problem though as for I went to play World of Warcraft and I got disconnected from the server. So I tried again and got bumped off again. So I checked signal strength and its a solid 4 of 5 bars and claims to be communicating at 48mb/s with the wireless router. I then did a ping www.google.com -t to see what my latency looked like and most of the pings were 40 to 50ms although when moving the mouse around the latency would climb to around 100ms until i STOPPED moving the mouse around. I figured that the bandwidth of the USB port may be competing between the mouse and the NIC so I didnt think anything much about it, but with the ping running, I launched WoW and then noticed that the pings would cut out and then come back. With this game running it would have about 8 to 15 successful pings and then a delay and missed pings. When I closed the game, the issue just about went away.

So I figured it seems as though when the CPU is loaded up to about 60% for both cores or so, the wireless adapter is falling behind with its communications and dropping out.

- I went to see if there was an update to the USB driver for the motherboard and there is none for Windows 7 for this board.

- I checked the power supply voltage and all looks good.

- I ran a ping at the same time from a netbook to the router and that had no problems at all, so I know its not the router.

- I have no other wireless networks in range of my new home and so I know its not a radio frequency conflict

- I took out a spare computer running a Athlon II x2 215 2.7Ghz with 2GB RAM and Windows 7 64-bit and installed the drivers and this NIC and the communications have no problems although WoW lags on this system with the integrated AMD Radeon 3000 GPU, the CPU cores are around 50% with wow running and no lost pings.


So I know its something to do with my wifes computer, but not sure exactly what, other than it seems as though the system struggles to keep the handshake with the wireless through USB.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to check out to diagnose further?

In the meantime I have a Cat5 cable run across the floor to her computer, but she would like to be wireless. Also her system is free of malware/virus's and idles at like 3% to 6% CPU usage, also the CPU is set to speedstep throttling to run cooler at idle and be more green and so its a 2.4Ghz Core 2 Duo E6600 that idles at 1500Mhz. Then when the system needs more processing power it ramps its CLOCK back to full speed at 2400Mhz. I dont think that this enabled would cause the problem as for if it needs more processing power to maintain the JUGGLE of keeping the handshake, it should run at 2400Mhz when needed etc.

This system runs flawlessly when connected hard wired to integrated NIC with Cat5 cable.

Here is a LINK to her motherboard: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00864946&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en



Have you tried a PCI or PCI-e wireless card in that PC ? ?

The issue sounds like the USB connection to me...have you tried it in the rear USB ports ? ?

Funky issue for sure.Wireless USB adapters are very low cost. If you want low speed.
The new ones are pricy. Here is a review of the new 'Gigabit'  devices.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2090556/tested-we-push-six-802-11ac-wi-fi-usb-adapters-to-the-limit.html
Tested: We push six 802.11ac Wi-Fi USB adapters to the limit

His tests gave mixed results.

EDIT:The new 'gigabit' Wi-Fi  is 802.11ac
Thats what he's currently using Geek...I inserted the USB NIC into the motherboard direct at the back of the computer. Its too wide to fit in the front slot with the way that HP made a I/O plastic door that can open/close access to the front ports. Tried a different USB port as well on the rear of the computer which is direct to the motherboard with same results with the drop outs.

I have a PCI Wireless G card in storage. I suppose I could try that and see if the problem goes away. Very strange though that everything ELSE works fine in USB ports both front and rear, and this Linksys USB NIC works fine in a different computer build. Kind of wish I had another Windows 7 32-bit build though to test to see if its something driver wise with regards to Windows 7 32-bit and the Linksys as for my comparison was a 64-bit Windows 7 system, but also the hardware was way different too. I suppose if I wanted to troubleshoot that advanced into this matter I could swap out the SSD that is in it with a 120GB IDE HDD that I have since this motherboard has a ATA100 for up to 2 drives and install Windows 7 64-bit to my wifes system on this 120GB drive and just dont activate the key since its trial basis only to test this NIC with 64 bit Win 7.

If I can find that Wireless G NIC that is PCI I will try that route to see if I can get it to behave I guess. I also have an oscilloscope and can look at the USB port to see how clean the 5V is etc.... maybe the 5V is dirty, although generally if you have issues with power and USB you will have devices disconnecting and reconnecting on their own with the da-dunk sound or a message about exceeding bus power etc.

The problem will go away when you use a different wireless adapter.

My husband set up xubuntu for me SEVERAL YEARS ago, and I have NEVER been able to view my videos. Now we want to switch to a different Linux system. Any recommendations for someone who wants to edit home movies, photographs and some writing. Also want to be able to download music off of cds in a form that will work on cd players (not wave format). Any suggestions?Curious as to what you are running for hardware specs?

Depending on what you have for hardware there may be limitations to distros etc.


Most people I know using xubuntu are running it because they are running older Pentium III generation and early Pentium 4 generation systems that have MEMORY limitations to MAX supported RAM. And xubuntu is a lighter weight distro than that of the ubuntu os to work better with systems with lesser RAM and CPU processing power.

This error message continues to pop up too many times. I have a Samsung Galaxy S 3.  Any help would be appreciated.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]This isn't hardware more than likely, but software or a carrier ISSUE. LOOKS like you're not GETTING a 3G/4G signal. Are you on wifi/do you get cell signal?Thanks for your response. The problem was the Yahoo Mail APP. I uninstalled and REINSTALLED. No more error pop ups.

It is only news because it is still going on. An it has recently hurt many important people. Think about NAKED celebrity photos. 

Like 'In what city were you born?'
More people are born in large cities. Duh! About 300 major ciresi are listed by the US census bureau. Metro cites would WIDE are some 700 or so.

Like 'What High School did you graduate from?' Duh! There are in 2001 some  26,407 public high schools and 10,693 private schools in the United States

It has been estimated that the VOCABULARY of English includes roughly 1 million words. Some would say only a quarter of that are true English  words. Still, that is a lot of words.  So I would have better security using a long word from the Oxford dictionary rather that from a list of major cities or schools.

Look at these RECENT items:

http://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2014/09/time-to-kill-the-online-security-question.html
It’s Time to Kill the Online Security Question

http://www.washingtonpost.com/news/the-intersect/wp/2014/09/03/this-is-how-easy-it-is-to-hack-someones-icloud-with-their-security-questions/
This is how easy it is to hack someone's iCloud

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2741106/Apple-outraged-admits-iCloud-security-questions-WERE-blame-leaked-celebrity-pictures.html#ixzz3DjVQGOc2
Apple admits guessed iCloud security questions WERE to blame

Please! Somebody tell these people to stop using security questions

We have about 400 XP workstations at our facility, so our corporate office sent a "Migration Team" to install Windows 7 for us to lighten the load. Part of that migration was to adopt some new security policies. yay  We've now went into a dual monitor obsession and we're having to install video cards in many machines. Workstation #1: After installing the card, I TURNED on the machine only to be prompted by bitlocker, telling me to enter a security key(Standard security procedure-Hardware Change). After sitting on hold with the service desk for 23 minutes, I gave them my ID and they SAID that the user wasn't AUTHORIZED on that drive(Standard security procedure). We tried mine(local facility admin) and any user I could think that actually used that machine in the past....Nothing. Her advice was to REFORMAT THE MACHINE!(Standard security procedure). I finally came across an ex-employee ID that let us in. Great! I logged in and downloaded the video card drivers. I couldn't run the EXECUTABLE without admin credentials(Standard security procedure) sooo.... The local administrator account wouldn't work for some reason. I tried my personal admin credentials which let me launch the setup. I soon found out that all local administrator accounts had been renamed.(Standard security procedure) The setup started copying files over to the C drive and ACCESS DENIED(standard security procedure). I had to copy the drivers from the network location I'd downloaded them, to the local desktop only this time, the local admin account worked, and my admin account wouldn't.  REBOOT TIME!..... BITLOCKER STRIKES AGAIN! (Standard security procedure) Back on hold I go... She told me I had to go into the control panel, suspend bitlocker, and leave it like that until it re-writes it's configuration(or whatever). I'm finally back into Windows and not much to my surprise.... no dual monitors, so I go into the display settings to activate the other monitor...It's not there. Soooo I go to the device manager to see what's going on and it shows the other display adapter with an exclamation mark on it. I tell it to check the INTERNET for any driver changes and of course...MICROSOFT is a blocked download site. So I basically had to hack the registry to let me download from Microsoft until the next Big Brother GP update was forced upon me. That allowed for Windows to search for an updated compatible driver (Not sure why the OEM driver didn't do it) and the monitor then activated and I went on my merry way.

1 workstation down, 207 to go.Sounds like the migration team are a bunch of jerks, and also your IT department.
Not funny but you sound like my daughter and the team she works with.  Quote from: Dadair on September 17, 2014, 03:39:48 PM

Not funny but you sound like my daughter and the team she works with.

If you live down under, you already know what this is.
This rest of us have never heard of it. Although Comcast and others have been making promises for some time. That's another story.
Quote

The National Broadband Network (NBN) is a national wholesale-only, open-access data network and is under development in Australia.
Fixed line and wireless broadband connections are sold to retail service providers (RSP), who then sell Internet access and other services to consumers. The NBN was subject to political and industry debate for a number of years, before construction actually commenced.
The 2013 Federal Election and subsequent change of GOVERNMENT from Labor to the Liberal National Coalition prompted a strategic review to be commissioned to determine the ideal infrastructure mix to deliver fast broadband ACROSS the COUNTRY as quickly as possible. The review commenced in October 2013 and is due to report to government in December 2013.[1]

Approximately 93 per cent of the population was planned to be serviced with fibre to the premises (FTTP)

I am trying to create an email distribution LIST in Yahoo Mail from an Excel document.  I've converted it to a csv document, but it will not import into Yahoo Mail
It appears that you NEED to have a header row in your csv file and the header must match Yahoo's name for that field.  For instance, in my csv file the first 2 fields were named Name & Email ADDRESS.  When I did the import, no records were imported.  I then changed the headers to say LAST Name & Email, ran the import and got my contacts imported.

You can see Yahoo's field names by clicking on "Add a contact" and noting what each filed is LABELED as.

In New Zealand this is big NEWS. 
For the rest of us, it is of some interest.
Quote

Cyber CRIMINALS blamed for three-day DDoS.
New Zealand's largest telco and internet service provider Spark suffered a three-day long outage over the weekend, as its Domain Name System (DNS) infrastructure became overwhelmed in what the company said was a "dynamic cyber attack".
The outage meant customers were unable to browse the web and utilise other services requiring name service resolution though Spark's ALLOCATED DNS servers.
Read more: http://www.itnews.com.au/News/391808,dns-attack-affects-nzs-biggest-isp.aspx#ixzz3CpZzC0VI

As the problems continued over the weekend, Spark advised users via Twitter and the web to switch their automatically allocated DNS servers to others such as Google's

So I flew home from Oklahoma to Manchester, New Hampshire yesterday... and on my flight from Atlanta to Manchester, NH, I decided to connect to the Delta Airlines Gogo wifi that they turn on after they reach greater than 10,000 feet elevation. I figured I'd connect to it from my netbook. Sadly they seem to have a OS requirement to connect to their wifi, which is stupid.

I turned the netbook on and because it has a SSD was quickly at my desktop of Windows XP Home SP3. I then connected to the unsecured wifi that was the only wifi on the plane. I launched Firefox which is running the latest version 32 and was brought to the Delta home page.

When selecting to get a free wifi connection vs paying $5 for 30 minutes of internet access or $14 for 2 hours ( or something like that ) with options going all the way up to like $449 for unlimited access for a year.  I was then presented with a message on the next page when trying to SELECT a sponsor to select for advertising to pay my way for internet access with " Sorry your computer does not match the following requirements"

It listed Mac OS VERSIONS,  and Windows versions 7, 8, 8.1 as a requirement as well as listed browser requirements in which Firefox, CHROME, and IE were listed.

To me it was like why have an OS requirement since if you have the latest Firefox which is what I use for my browser that should be the only requirement to support the scripting etc that their web page and advertising junk need to operate.

There was no requirement to install any software to SURF, but because my netbook was Windows XP with Firefox and not Windows 7 or newer with Firefox it wasnt allowed to do anything on their network.

Just thinking of the others out there who might have a portable Linux computer or XP or Vista instead of 7 or newer for OS or older Mac OS that supports the latest browser of choice that meets the requirements for the browser, but yet is not a match for OS requirement... Its just stupid.

Anyone know "why" they would have an OS version requirement to connect to their free or paid for wifi when the browser is a match to the requirements, and should be the only requirement is that the browser be a specific version or newer?That does seem pretty ridiculous.  I can possibly see them wanting to block unsupported OSs for security but Vista is still supported.  Not only that, but if the network is set up properly then this shouldn't be an issue as individual clients should be isolated from ONE another.  I also wonder what would happen with not only Linux, but devices running iOS and Android!

Was this only on the advertising supported version?  I'm wondering if in order for the advertising to work you need to install special software on your PC that will display the ads.  Of course this is a wild guess but this sounds like a possible reason. Quote

Anyone know "why" they would have an OS version requirement to connect to their free or paid for wifi when the browser is a match to the requirements, and should be the only requirement is that the browser be a specific version or newer?

With the appropriate add-in you can always change your user-agent to report a supported OS. I doubt they have much reason to actually have it set.

Saw this here on facebook today and thought wow, thats a great idea for use of old bread tags, or grabbing a few extras from stores that have them out in the open in the bakery section with pick your own donuts or bagels etc, in which you could buy some food and grab some extra tags   

My system that I use for knowing what plug end goes to what with the many systems I have uses colored zip ties. I have color coded them by for example if I have 20 plugs to account for, and I have 5 colors of zip ties to pick from I will start the first 5 cords using just 1 zip tie each at the plug end and the other end that is plugged into the device. So for example my computer has an orange zip tie from looking at the cord going into the power supply, I can look in the mass of wires plugged into multiple UPS's and see the one out of the many black power cables that has the single orange zip tie and know that that is the one I want to unplug or verify that its plugged into the battery backup side vs just the surge only side of the UPS. For the cords beyond the first 5 that are single color, I use color combinations at each end of the cord such as pink and blue, etc to make the color code of them unique to the other cords I have.

This for me has worked for about 10 years in knowing what plug goes to what device. And even though I saw this bread TAG method, I am going to stick with the zip tie color code method because the tags wont fall off or have to be relabeled later when cables are repurposed.

Prior to this late 1980s to early 90s, I tried using the paper tags with the small loop of string in which you write on the paper tag what it is, but they would somehow get damaged or disappear from the cords.

In the early 90s I then switched to the idea of printing out a list of cables to identify and cutting out the text as thin strips and applying the strips of paper along the length of cord near the plug and wrapping that paper with wide clear packing tape to BOND it to the cord. The problem I ran into with this was 3 problems. #1, the tape I bought after a few years was starting to yellow the ink from the dot matrix printer that printed the paper seemed to bleed with the gum from the tape and so it turned yellow and blurry after about 4 years. #2, the tapes adhesive would lose its bond with the cable because the gum adhesive has aged and is breaking down, so the label with ring of clear packing tape was able to slide on the cable and when it moved and you touched the cable, the cable was all tacky to the touch. #3, when a piece of equipment was disposed of but yet the cord remained, you had to relabel the cord or else there would be confusion when looking at all the plugs ( yes I did this to myself once and had to track the cord all the way back to figure out which one it was.)

So I decided to finally come up with a zip tie color code method that works no matter where that power cord would me moved to when repurposed later. The colors at each end would remain the same, zip ties last a very long time, and because its a color code identification method there is no need to have to remove text and correct for what it was now powering.

When I was working as a system admin at my prior job we bought a cable label maker and this worked great for the network cables to identify them among the hundreds of same colored patch cables etc. And this label maker method is good if the cables will not change identity in which you need to relabel them or set yourself up for FUN when only 1 end of the cable was labelled correctly and the other end still has the old label affixed to it.

 I had an intern working with me at my last job that I gave the label maker to and gave him the fun of identifying and labeling all the patch cables in our network closet IDF's which came from the MDF in the basement. This was just a job to give him something to do to pass time on days that we had a light load of work and I couldnt have him sitting around getting paid surfing the web waiting for a help desk call, and it was a much needed tedious task to be completed. I am not faulting him for the mistake, but when looking at a mass of same colored patch and network bundles in a closet it is easy to start with 1 end and try to track it through the spaghetti of cables and end up with a different cable at the other end because it just happens when not extremely careful. I showed him the tug method to know that you have the same cable at both ends of your hands when the cable is INTERTWINED with the mass of others and for the most part he got all cables correct except for 2 cables out of the hundreds that he had to identify and label ( * or we never moved others that were labelled wrong while I was there, that someone else had to deal with later or will have to deal with at a future time ). When the HR woman wanted to move to the other office with a window view to the outside world and a door to close for confidential discussions from that of prior a small cubicle space which wasnt private enough, I went in and had to move her patch cable for her VoIP phone to another jack so that her phone would work in the new office. The VoIP network was not the same network as the corporate network and so I ended up with a VoIP phone that was dead when plugging it into the jack. The reason for why the phone was dead was for 2 reasons, it required PoE ( Power over Ethernet ) + It required to be on the Phone Network to function with the Shoretel System.  I plugged my laptop into the port and it was live, so I made the mistake of assuming that there must be a wiring issue with the pins used for the PoE and thats why the phone is dead. What I should have DONE is taken a look to see what network I was on as for if I looked to see what network my laptop was connecting to on that jack I would have realized I was on the wrong network and so the patch cable was wrong. I got my patch cable tester and stuck the loop back on the rack for that jack and rung out the cat5e cable from the office jack to that rack and it came up healthy with all 4 pairs correct. I then thought maybe the patch cable is damaged somehow and so I went to replace it, and when I replaced it I noticed that the labels mismatched at both ends. I also realized that the other end of the cable in the IDF was plugged into a Cisco managed switch and was not plugged into the 24 port PoE switch, and so I knew that I found just the beginning of the problem. To not get confused as to what cable was what since I didnt have the label maker with me I ended up grabbing a red cable I had out of my laptop bag and using that as a temporary patch cable to get the HR womans phone back up and running. And then I was on the hunt for the other cable that was labelled wrong. I started at that 24 port PoE switch because I knew that the cable she had been using prior must still be plugged into that and sure enough there it was. So i then grabbed another cable from my computer bag which was a 50ft grey cable and used that as a temp cable to get her computer connected in the new office. Then after hours when she left at 5pm, I went back in there with label maker and replaced the 2 temp cables with 2 normal patch cables that were labeled correctly.

Figured I would share this here in case there are better methods etc or other info from others to share on this, as well as this might help someone who needs to manage their cable identification which they either dont already have in place, or are looking for a good method.

https://www.facebook.com/MOJOOutdoorsTV/photos/a.166982872594.131393.158931732594/10152130129337595/?type=1&theater



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]When I worked as a "prototype wireman" in the 1970s among other things I used to make up patch leads for a military contract and we used to identify them using heat-shrinkable yellow sleeving, and special no-fade, no-smudge marker pens. The unshrunk sleeve was big enough to go over an already attached connector if necessary, and then you just blew on it with a hair dryer and watched it shrink tight. 3M make a range of tubing called GTI-3000 in various colours and sizes from 1.5 mm to 39 mm with an original to shrunk ratio of 3:1. In fact there are lots of products of this type and you can buy packs of tubing/sleeving on eBay and you can even get printable types and desktop thermal transfer printers are available, or you can get pens (that one in the picture looks very much like a Sharpie)






Neat ... didnt know about heat shrink for labelling.

I AM TRYING TO FIND OUT HOW AND WHY MY COMPUTER TRACKS AND KEEPS LOGS OF JUST TWO OF ABOUT 20 BUDDIES ON MY BUDDY LIST IN AIM.  FOR EXAMPLE THE LOGS WILL READ:  [email protected] SIGNED ON 2:00PM, [email protected] WENT IDLE 2:15PM, [email protected] CAME BACK FROM IDLE 2:30PM AND [email protected] SIGNED OFF 2:45pm, THE OTHER BUDDY NORMALLY SIGNS OFF AND ON WITHIN MINUTES {10 TO 15} OF THE 1st BUDDY.  THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR MONTHS,  IS IT A COINCIDENCE OR ARE THESE TWO BUDDIES ACTUALLY CHATTING, THEY SAY THEY AREN'T.

I keep trying to download Wanko to Kurasou Soundtrack from media fire but for some reason I am STUCK in an endless cycle of the me clicking download, the page refreshing, and nothing happening.  I have EVEN gone as far as changing my ip address via proxy nothing works. If it helps i am using google CHROME and have tried internet explorer as well as downloading on my kindle no device works help PLEASE.  Also it is not just this download it seems that it is mediafire in general does not work for me and I have tried using fire fox as well.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/fa5ahz5k1k1k5xf/%5BFuwanovel%5D+Wanko+To+Kurasou+Original+Sound+Track%2B.rarNo need to double=Post...

            Topic Closed.

Can a virus get into yhour BIOS?
Yes.
This is not new information. This is an abridged summary of a a Wekipeadia article.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BIOS
Quote

Security
EEPROM chips are advantageous because they can be easily updated by the user; hardware MANUFACTURERS frequently issue BIOS updates to upgrade their products, ... more recent BIOSes use a "boot block"; a portion of the BIOS which runs first and must be updated separately. This code verifies if the rest of the BIOS is intact (using hash checksums or other methods) before transferring control to it. If the boot block detects any corruption in the main BIOS, it will typically warn the user ...

There are at least four known BIOS attack viruses, two of which were for demonstration purposes. The first one found in the wild was Mebromi, targeting Chinese users.

The first BIOS virus was CIH, whose name matches the initials of its creator, Chen Ing Hau. ... It was able to erase flash ROM BIOS content. Often, infected computers could no longer boot, and people had to remove the flash ROM IC from the motherboard and reprogram it. ...

Modern systems are not vulnerable to CIH because of a variety of chipsets being used which are incompatible with the Intel i430TX chipset, and also other flash ROM IC types. ... all modern operating systems such as FreeBSD, Linux, OS X, Windows NT-based Windows OS like Windows 2000, Windows XP and newer, do not allow user-mode programs to have direct hardware access.

As a result, as of 2008, CIH has become essentially harmless, at worst causing annoyance by infecting executable files and from antivirus software. Other BIOS viruses remain possible, however;[22] since most Windows home users without Windows Vista/7's UAC run all applications with administrative privileges,...the Linux kernel also prevents this direct hardware access by default,...

The second BIOS virus was a technique presented by John Heasman, principal security consultant for UK-based Next-Generation Security Software. In 2006, at the Black Hat Security Conference, he showed how to elevate privileges ...

The third BIOS virus was a technique called "Persistent BIOS infection." It appeared in 2009 at the CanSecWest Security Conference in Vancouver, and at the SyScan Security Conference in Singapore. Researchers ... demonstrated how to insert malicious code into the decompression routines in the BIOS, allowing for nearly full control of the PC at start-up ..."We can patch a driver to drop a fully working rootkit. We even have a little code that can remove or disable antivirus."[24]
...
In a December 2013 interview with CBS 60 Minutes, Deborah Plunkett, Information Assurance Director for the US National Security Agency CLAIMED that NSA analysts had uncovered and thwarted a possible BIOS attack by a foreign nation state. ...  The segment further cites anonymous cyber security experts briefed on the operation as alleging the plot was conceived in China.[28] ...

You should hang out in our Malware Forums and see how many instances are listed in the last 10 years before sounding a sheep's call...

It is very, very hard to verify the pretense of malware in the BIOS. This was a topic in the 2013 Black Hat  thing.

http://www.blackhat.com/us-13/briefings.html

I have average computer skills at best. Be very careful of freeware sites. I only trust one ( Snap FILES ) . A couple months ago I went to freeware site, don't know the name. Anyway as SOON as I clicked on this site it started to download something. I reached up really fast and clicked computer off ( hard kill ) with my WIFI with no wires, maybes theres other ways to disconnect from the net. Maybe airplane mode, since I GOT windows 8. Luckily I was ok.
I go to You Tube many hours and watch computer video,s. I didn't realize there,s so many fakes.
The most faked I see is Adobe Flash Player a computer tech from Britec shows how to get rid of it. It,s on You Tube ( Brian of Britec ) . Also another good video on You Tube, go to there site search type in,
( messin with fake AVG 2011 ) you must see this. Thanks, ChuckChuck racer,
Take a look at posts on this forum and find reports  of the kind of things criminals do to take your money and waste your time.
There are reports of:
 - Fake Security Software
 - Fake PC Cleaners
 - Fake Java Updates
 - Faked Job Offers.
just to name a few.
Here is RECENT warming from Microsoft:
Watch out for fake virus alerts
Quote

Rogue security software designers create legitimate looking pop-up windows that advertise security update software. These windows might appear on your screen while you surf the web.
The "updates" or "alerts" in the pop-up windows call for you to take some sort of action, such as clicking to install the software, accept recommended updates, or remove unwanted viruses or spyware. When you click, the rogue security software DOWNLOADS to your computer.
...

Please advise when I plug in the USB Flash Drive to the computer, before I open the content how to scan whether the Flash Drive has Virus or not. Also how to remove the Virus if found. THANK you.
JohnDo you have anti-virus software INSTALLED? Usually, you can just right click on the icon of your flash drive and select the option to scan it for viruses. Most anti-virus programs make this option available. Also, many a-v programs also let you choose to automatically scan any new devices detected.

This is not news. Just a heads up. Some forums report the problem is real and there is no fix. Here is a quote for one of a few:
Quote

Remember that fundamental USB security flaw that a pair of researchers unearthed back in July? You know, the one that ALLEGEDLY affects every single USB DEVICE in the wild for which there is no fix for. While they did publically demonstrate the flaw using a piece of MALWARE they created called BadUSB, the duo elected not to release the code. A couple of other researchers, HOWEVER, decided to throw caution to the wind by posting code for a similar attack on Github. During the RECENT Derbycon hacker convention, researchers Adam Caudill and Brandon Wilson revealed that they were also able to reverse engineer the USB firmware that Karsten Nohl and Jakob Lell spoke of a few months ago.

I just LANDED on a page that was not working and Google Chrome GAVE me an "Aw, Snap!" error page. I didn't realize it was a Google error until I clicked the "Solutions" LINK. Google developers show their humor in geeky ways...

Here are a few Google HELP pages I just discovered.

• "Aw, Snap!"
• "He's Dead, Jim!"

We have a Emerson DVD Player, an SEEMS like the original remote has failed too it, I tried new BATTERIES as well.  Trying to USE a Universal Remote, URC-R5 too use it.  I went through all the codes it seems an won't work supposedly.  Also, It's hooked up to an Emerson TV locked

I found this site I want to share with you.
Arduino Uno vs BeagleBone vs Raspberry Pi

Here's a brief summary:
All three are very small single board  computers you round fit in a beer mug. (Without the beer, of course.)

Arduino Uno is maybe the most popular at a price that is less that the parts alone if you went out and got the components off the self. It can be called a 'micro-controller' rather that a computer. It is slow and does mundane talks using  several I/O Ines. Requires. knowledge of C or related language.

Raspberry Pi is a better choice it you want to play with a small box that acts more like a very small computer. It has  TV output and enough RAM to run a stripped-down version of Linux. Only cost a few dollars more. About $35.

BeagleBone is overpriced but has more stuff. Still, the TV output is not included in the standard package. 
Here is an image the represents the general size of all three.


For much more information, read the first  the link above.
Or do a Google search or the keywords:
Arduino Uno, BeagleBone, Raspberry Pi

Myself, I have of of the  Arduinos,  but so far have not found a use for it. I would make a home security system, but we have a good watchdog already.  I have read into them, but havent bought any of them. Mainly because I feel very limited in the application of them and have no application that needs one.

The nice thing about them is that they save electronic hobbyists from having to create an interface from scratch, you can simply use this as a place to start without having to reinvent the wheel and the price tag doesnt hurt the wallet for the Raspberry Pi etc.

The last project I had that needed controls and an interface was back in 1998 when I decided to use a computer to control 8 relays through Parallel port to make stuff trigger in my yard that were driven off of the relays for a halloween setup. I had a strobe that was controlled on one of them with the PC speaker making thunder and other scary sounds etc, and had solenoids that would fire and make loud pop noises by home made fake coffins, skulls that had jaws that would open up quickly and the pc speaker would make a scream etc and an off balance motor in a dummy that would shake that was suspended etc. I also drilled small holes through some candles and ran fishing LINE through them  to suspend them in the air and had a few of them lit in which people would walk up to them and see that they didnt have a base and LOOKED like they were floating in mid air. The fishing line was strung between house and a tree. And with the night that one night being very still air I was able to light candles and have them lit and appeared to be floating etc suspended by the fishing line.

This was back when i had plenty of time on my hands and some money to spend on this stuff... now days i have not much time and I cant see wasting the money, but also in my area there are no more trick or treaters, all the kids now go to a fire house where there is a big community event etc and so halloween is dead in my area so no sense going all out when all the kids hit 1 event location and then go home after that. 

Here is that relay controller that was through parallel port: http://www.electronics123.com/kits-and-modules/computers/PC-Printer-Port-Relay-Board-kit-version-2.html

Looks like its still available 

Quote

Do you have an old PC lying around the house which absolutely no one wants? Then you can convert it into a dedicated controller. Communicate with the real world via the parallel printer port on your PC. Simply connect printer cable from computer to Centronics CONNECTOR on relay board. There are 8 relays each capable of switching 12VDC/10A or 240VAC/5A. Each relay has an LED to indicate when it is operated. We provide two sets of COMPLETE, stand-alone software to control the relays: one works under DOS so you can write your own batch files to control individual relays, the other under Windows 3.1. Needs 12VDC center positive 2.5mm power supply. PCB Size 6.75" x 2.75" (version 2) (CPS74)

I have Open Office and have downloaded 2 templates from Avery. They are blank templates of full sheets of labels. When I download individual labels I can't find them because they didn't go to Open Office. Help please.What do you mean by "individual labels"? How do you download them? Have you looked in your Downloads folder?

When I look at the available templates on the Avery website, there are templates for MS Word, ADOBE, Google Docs, MS Publisher, etc... but NONE for Open Office.  The OpenOffice website has a BUNCH of extensions you can INSTALL including templates.  Have you tried the templates from the OpenOffice website?  =field_project_application%3A2]http://extensions.openoffice.org/en/search?f[0]=field_project_application%3A2

Hi  -
I have my defragmentation PROGRAM done at 1 AM on each Wednesday.  I assume that the computer should be left on. Is there a BETTER way than just leaving it on, like sleep or something?
Thanks      BobIf your defragmentation is being done as a Scheduled Task, you may be able to edit that task's SETTINGS to enable it to wake the computer from sleep.

http://www.howtogeek.com/119028/how-to-make-your-pc-wake-from-sleep-automatically/

Salmon Trout  -
Thanks for your reply.  I will check out what you SUGGEST.   Thanks   BobI don't shut down/power off my desktop computer.  I have the monitor set to turn off after 10 minutes of non-use but I leave the computer on all the TIME.  Works for me.I shut my PC down when not in use...

While looking at the CPU support list for the Biostar MCP6PB M2+ motherboard in my older gaming system, a 15 Watt CPU caught my eye. The Athlon 64  2650E 1.6Ghz Single-Core with 128k L1 and 512k L2 cache.

Looked up benchmark info on this electron sipper of a processor and its just slightly better than a 10 year old Athlon XP 2800+

Looked at ebay to see if there was a cheap one to acquire for testing purposes and bought one for $5.48 as seen here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400481450025#viTabs_0

Decided to buy this electron sipper CPU out of curiosity as to just how horrible of a CPU it probably is for gaming as well as other applications like multitasking etc. 

My guess is that even paired up with an ok video card for the games tested against it, the CPU is going to bottleneck the performance a good amount compared to the Dual-core Athlon 64 x2 4450B which i have overclocked to 2.53Ghz and of which runs these same games ok with the same video card.

Given its low wattage of just 15 watts, I am curious as to if it is really just a Mobile Athlon CPU that is in an AM2 desktop PC socket chip layout.

 I have a curiosity with just how weak of a CPU can be used for certain applications and operate, when most people buy CPUs that are far above and beyond the current software needs for years of high performance until the software and OS eventually overcomes the CPUs abilities, I occasionally find an older computer or a weakling CPU to test out inexpensively with modern applications to test the extreme opposite of powerful, the old and the weak! 

Quote

most people buy CPUs that are far above and beyond the current software needs

Hi,I am wondering if someone knows how can I locate my phone - Samsung Galaxy S5 Zoom. It was STOLEN yesterday.  My google account is connected with my phone.  And I have IMEI number. First of all - Contact the police straight away.

Assuming you don't already have anti-theft apps installed, you may want to try this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lookout.labs.planb&hl=en_GB - It's designed to be installed from your computer over Google Play so as long as the phone is turned on and connected to your account it should install.  This will let you get its location.I have contacted the police almost immediately - an hour after I was robbed, but I am not sure that they could help. I am from Serbia and the police here is not as much bothering with stolen phones as they should- that is almost considered to be "small crime".

And about Plan B (that app) - I have downloaded it yesterday evening but it says:

① Install Plan B from the Android MARKET website (https://market.android.com/details?id=com.lookout.labs.planb) to the phone that you are trying to find
② Plan B will start automatically and send your phone’s location to your Gmail address
③ To locate again after 10 minutes, borrow a friend’s phone and text the word “locate” to your lost phone

I have done the first thing but nothing happened.

And person who has stolen my phone took out SIM card immediately - it was offline SINCE robbing.

I have tried with Android Device Manager but it says last time online: 01.11.2014. (that was me yesterday morning) and since nothing changes.
And yeah Android Device Manager cannot WORK WITHOUT my phone having wifi or internet connection.

So I have a bunch of movies that I legally own, and currently I have to navigate and select a specific file to watch. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions of tools out there that allow for this?

I was thinking of a way to do this with some custom programming, but was thinking someone out there must have already created a method to do this and probably far better than a program that I would draft up to accomplish this. But... I am not finding any leads on google to a solution that is a definite working method. Closest I found was this: http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=126418

If I were to create a program to accomplish this, I would simply place all the video files into a single flat directory, and then have a function read in from DIR and then with use of a random generator which is populated by the number of files that exist in this directory, pick a number from say 1 to 208 and say it PICKS 117, and then it launches the video file with a start instruction for VLC.exe "VideoFiletoPlay.MP4" in which VideoFiletoPlay.MP4 is the 117th file listed on the Directory ( DIR ) list alphanumerically.

But before I take the time to possibly REINVENT the wheel, I figured I'd ask around first.

I ditched cable TV and own a bunch of movies and tv show collections that I bought full seasons of on DVD etc, and the one thing I miss about cable TV is simply turning on the tv and the randomness of what I will find channel surfing. If i had a single video channel with some randomness in it which a choice to skip to the next random show or movie that would be awesome vs having to scroll through and make decisions on what i want to watch from many directories and which shows in seasoned shows to watch etc since I generally dont have enough time to watch a complete season of any show from beginning to finish but just want to watch something random for 45 MINUTES etc.  Good idea.
Rather that manipulate the order of the files in a directory, just use a playlist.
You can do  this. Create a playlist in your favorite media player.
Use a pair of dice to pick a number.
Quote

Create a playlist in your favorite media player.
Use a pair of dice to pick a number.

I just hope you'll have the option to delete your own POST. And EDIT your post without a time LIMIT.

Hi  -
Tonight I was WATCHING a rain STORM coming.  When I called up the radar that a local TV station was putting out the picture froze and I got the following message: "not responding due to a long-running script" and off to the side was "stop script".  When I clicked on "stop script" EVERYTHING was fine.  Can you tell me what was meant and what can I do to get rid of the  message?     Thank you      BobThere is a bug with the website you are using, nothing you can do to fix it.camerongray  -
Thanks for your reply.  This was not a big problem.  I will just continue to CLICK on the "stop script".   Thanks    BobGive WeatherUnderground a try...i use it.

Better than local as far as i'm concerned.patio  -
Thanks for your suggestion.  Sometimes a person can look out the window and do as well as anybody.  I have available 2 radar systems.  I only use them to track storms that are nearby.  Today I am watching a LARGE rain area that got here (central Texas) last night and looks to stay all day.  This is the largest rain area I have SEEN in the last 10 years.  We sure need it.   BobHere Ya Go...patio  -
That website sure has a lot of information.   Thanks   Bobcamerongray  -
I don't know what happened but my problem went away!!!  Stop when you are ahead!!!
Thanks   Bob

I am a java programmer and I KNOW to program java mobile phones such as Nokia, Samsung or like that.
I have already made three games in j2me.
My question is that can I make money by publishing such games into internet,
If there is any such website that offers money for publishing such games into their website or if there  is any website that would make my game popular please let me know ....
Thank you..
  J2ME is very out of date, I doubt it has a big enough userbase or enough users that are willing to pay  to make it profitable.

I'd recommend developing apps for modern smartphones such as Android (In Java), iOS (In Objective-C or Swift) or Windows Phone (In .NET languages like C#).camerongray is right.
Mobile DEVICES are now programmed in specific languages the are for specific platforms.
For more information, try looking at life hacker.com for information on writing programs for Android.
I Want to Write Android Apps. Where Do I Start?
Quote

Note: this is not meant to be a comprehensive guide on every detail of these applications and resources. In fact, such a guide could more accurately be described as a book. However, we will give you an overview of the different tools you can use and where to find more information. These tools require varying levels of experience and if you've never touched code before, you might want to check out our guides linked above. first However if you're ready to move from theory and syntax to actual development, here's what you'll need.

The last few years have seen an unprecedented number of people rushing to develop mobile apps for iOS and Android. But looking at the installed user base on each platform and information on the payouts made by the different companies, it appears that the vast majority of developers will find themselves with little revenue to show for. ...

By the way, if I master android programming then can I make money out of my apps??
Is there any such site?

I just BOUGHT a new windows 7 computer. I finally got the fonts for the computer and the desktop icons large enough that I can read them... Problem is the fonts in windows live mail...They are much to small. Is there any WAY I can make them larger with out messing up the rest of the fonts on my computer?? Windows live mail 11..  I ALREADY tried going to read and making the font larger there, but it didn't change anything....Did you SEE or read tutorial links such as http://email.about.com/od/outlookexpressrichedit/qt/Change_the_Default_Font_Face_and_Color_in_Windows_Live_Mail.htmThanks, but this doesn't address the problem with the font being too small.  The contacts list and mail received is so small, I can hardly see it...This article shows how to make the font bigger when composing mail, that is not what I am asking.You can hold down CTRL in any browser and use the scroll wheel to increase the page size...or the + button...Guess I am not doing something right. I held down the ctrl and scrolled, but nothing changed.. Quote from: Marjorie on October 26, 2014, 12:01:59 PM

... I held down the ctrl and scrolled, but nothing changed..

Do you add the received and SENT together to come up with the amount of DATA TRANSMITTED?I have a FEELING I MISSED the first part of this conversation

Hiya Guys!    Listen,  my rig has suddenly started to TAKE some time to load up and also shut down.   Like I can make a cup of tea!

Cam anyone tell me what to investigate here please???    Hard drive is my 2 cents worth.
Whats up with your Sig Gloops ? ?Hi ya fellas!  Listen, can somebody delete my signature for me please?   I don't know where this THING has come from!  I have been and deleted it TWICE now and it will not be deleted!   Can you moderators help me please?   I have some HD testers which tell me that my HD is "Excellent"  here???   So where the heck am I then?         Done...Patio you are a gentleman my FRIEND!   Many thanks here!     Oh, my rig has now gone back to behaving itself 

I do believe that our computers have some femme gender influence from somewhere ...  there are so many comparisons that one can make.!    (I am not attacking the female gender here guys... I love 'em all and I have a fantastic wife!).

I have an Epson Stylus PHOTO RX500 printer with a Mac computer and I used to be able to print perfect B&W photos. Suddenly,when I print on glossy paper, all the darker colours are tinged with green even though I have no colour controls set. However, I get perfect B&W when I print on plain paper. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is please. A print test page is showing no gaps in the result indicating that all the print heads are clean.Are you using genuine Epson Ink or a cheaper knock off brand?

Have you tried a different SOURCE of photo paper which may blend better?HELLO Hacker. I use Epson paper and have always used Epson compatible cartridges with excellent  results both for B&W and colour but things have suddenly changed. I wondered if it might be to do with the Mac updates. BrianAre you getting any messages such as one ink source is low?Old ink...replace the cartridges...Hello Dave, I am getting a message stating the magenta ink is low but the supply level bar appears to show plenty of ink left and a print test shows all full colours. Surely though, low magenta ink should not cause the green tint?

Patio, none of the inks are very old as I am frequently printing colour photos and art work. QUOTE from: brbrown on April 18, 2016, 05:15:20 AM

Surely though, low magenta ink should not cause the green tint?

We have messages that go through Emarq and then we use Outlook as a way too manage them.  We have a client that is SENDING messages that we need as they have Spots or RATHER mp3 files that have content we need for the SUMMER.  She is getting a message back about it not being delivered but, don't have much else too go on.  I can provide the WHOLE thing LATER if it be of any real help.  Thing is that I tried too add her again into the Address Book and still have the issue.

I have a DELL (570) computer using Windows 10. Without any warning my you tube presentation looks like negatives. I need HELP to get back the COLOR. Thank you for your response.

Was given a HP Compaq DC5800 with Core 2 Duo E4600 that was overheating after replacing CMOS battery. 

Prior owner was fed up with it and bought a new system and gave it to me for disposal. I figured initially that the heatsink must be clogged with dust. opened the case and it was surprisingly clean inside. Then removed heatsink to apply new thermal compound after removing old compound. Booted up again and quickly to 60C at idle and tops out around 72C. Didnt feel much airflow going past the heatsink. With speedfan installed I tried to raise the CPU fan speed from 35% to 100% and no change, still spinning slow.

Noticed the BIOS was 1.55 and there was a version 1.60. Flashed bios to 1.60 and went into BIOS to configure and thats when I found a FAN control in the BIOS with modes. I set it to 4 bars of like 6 bars for the mode which was a decent speed for the CPU fan. The CPU temp dove quickly to 48C and then came to rest around 43C.

Looked into the CPU support for this system and saw that the Q33 Express chipset supported the newer Pentium E5400 2.7Ghz that I had available from a dead eMachine. Removed heatsink again, removed thermal compound and swapped out the E4600 Core 2 Duo 2.4Ghz 2MB L2 Cache CPU for the E5400 Pentium 2.7Ghz 2MB L2 Cache CPU that has a better benchmark. Applied new thermal compound once again. System runs cooler with the Pentium E5400 than the Core 2 Duo E4600 at 38C at idle and when running Y-crunch multi-threaded benchmark it tops off at 52C.

Sharing this here as for someone else MIGHT run into this overheat by BIOS design problem with the DC5800 or other similar HP Compaq Models. I cant believe that HP Compaq would engineer a system that would remain at a slow speed for a CPU fan and allow for the CPU to run into the 72C range without the system ramping up the CPU fan speed to try to cool it. I shut the system down after I saw 72C to avoid cooking the CPU. I wasnt sure if it would thermal throttle to try to protect itself or if it will just cook itself to DEATH.

Not a bad FREE computer, and will likely give it to my daughter as an upgrade since she is running a Celeron D 335 single-core with XP.

Next time someone SAYS their system is overheating after replacing the CMOS battery, I know right were to point them! Fan Mode in BIOS in which default is the lowest CPU Fan Speed which is stupid!  I would think default would be 50% speed. I set it to 50% speed as for 100% makes it sound like a Server very NOISY and 50% you can hear the fan but its not that bad for fan noise.

Beginning dictation.
My personal experience with the new T mobile UNLIMITED data plan. Actually, it's my experience with TAG mobile and MetroPCS mobile. Both are now under the T mobile organization.
Here in the United States a number of cellular network companies are offering unlimited data plans over there t3G and 4G NETWORKS. As to may already know, watching a video over the set Internet work can use up a lot of bandwidth and a short period of time. The major attraction of the cellular net work is availability. No matter where you are you can stop somewhere and watch a movie or TV show on your tablet or smart phone. Yes, some tablets now are also equipped to be phones. My 7 inch tablet is also a phone.
And let me get to the point. Unlimited data is not what many people think it means. What it means is that you can watch Netflix and YouTube as much if you like on your mobile device without worrying about your data limit. But that does not apply to just ordinary web serving. Bear in mind that many websites offer video clips and other data objects that consume a lot of bandwidth. Does everybody agree on what bandwidth means?
Sometimes bandwidth is used to express the idea of speed of transmission in a short instant of time. For example if your connection runs that 8 million bits per second, you could say that you have a very fast connection and you have what can be called a broadband connection. However, the common usage now is for bandwidth to mean the amount of data that has been accumulated over a measure of time.
Most of the cellular network companies will charge you by the amount of data you use on a monthly basis. Normally you prepay for the amount of data you wish to use and at the end of the MONTH you cannot carry over the unused data to the next month. At least that's the way it is at the present time for most of the carriers.
Streaming video takes a lot more bandwidth than any other kind of data usage, with the exception of downloading huge program files or databases. You can do the calculations yourself an estimate how long it takes to watch a movie and how much data is involved. As a rule of thumb, a high quality video that runs over an hour will probably take up to a gigabyte of data. But that can vary by a whole lot. The common compression used today is in P4 and quite often streaming video is done at a resolution of 480 P. This resolution is lower than what you get on HD television, but pretty well represents what you expect on a standard TV.
Recently T mobile made some statements about other companies slowing down your data read or using a DIFFERENT compression method on your video. At one time T mobile accused AT&T of cutting back the 480 P stream to about 380 P. This means the quality of the video would be slightly less. Arguably, this is done to reduce congestion on the cellular data network.
Now that, my personal experiences are mixed. When I started in at the very low end of the data plan I found out that my data was very limited. Here's what happens. When you go over the set a limit you can still surf the net but streaming video will stop. About the lowest practical resolution for s streaming video is 280 P4 a small screen smart phone or. Even with my poor eyesight I can tell the difference. You can to, the lower resolution will cause you to squint your eyes.
If you wish to watch streaming video on your mobile device and you have an unlimited data plan from one of the major carriers, you will need to use the application program on your smart phone or tablet that helps optimize the resolution for the device you are using. Major streaming video sources, such as Netflix and YouTube, have android applications you can use to improve the overall experience. Also there are such apps for either Apple or Windows based mobile devices.
I have been able to watch some free video streaming on my 7 inch phone tablet by using an application I found in the Google place store. You need an application-specific to the service you are using recently I found an android app for the NBC streaming website. Using that app I was able to watch a lot of my favorite TV shows without overrunning my data limit.
Now about the limit on unlimited data. What they mean is that you can get fast Internet using the unlimited data plan until you reach a certain total data usage for the month. I had mine set at 10 GB and ran over very quickly until I got wise and limited myself to watching streaming video that is allowed by T-Mobile. That way I can continue watching streaming video even though I have gone over my data limit for the month.

I know this sounds confusing, but I'm telling you the way it really is. They call it unlimited data unless you use quite a bit of it that is not unlimited anymore. Unless you're watching certain streaming video sources.
If you have any comments or questions or suggestions please reply to this post.
Disclaimer. Other carries now claim their data plan is a good as T-Mobile.

I used too be able too run EasyBCD and tell it too add a name a Windows Drive that I WANTED too my Dual Boot Menu, when Windows started.  For some reason though I added, Windows 7, too the option menu but, when I select it not booting into it.

 I am getting this error, when I BRING up Win 7, Windows\system32\DRIVERS\oem-drv64.sys 0xc0000428, Windows cannot verify the digital SIGNATURE.....
 

Note that I am running both 64 bit versions of Windows 10 and 7 UltimateWe need to KNOW what exactly you did to setup this dual-boot...

BTW this is the 3rd Topic you started on the same subject...Can anyone help me?    Quote from: bob1286 on March 18, 2016, 06:26:36 PM

Can anyone help me?   

I own a small restaurant/bar.  We have POOL leagues along with weekly tournaments. What equipment/setup would I need to display our tournament brackets?  We would also like to stream live events from the internet that are not carried on regular tv channels (ex. UStream).  When the TVs are not in use, it would be nice to display a slideshow of our CALENDAR and other information.  We currently have 2 LED TVs that are available for this and would like to be able to have both TVs show the same information.

What equipment would I need to purchase and what is the best way to set it all up?

Thank you.Easiest thing I'd suggest would be to just get a basic PC/laptop and hook it up to the screens with HDMI CABLES.  If you are sure that you only ever want to show the same information on both screens, a simple HDMI splitter would be sufficient to hook them both up to the same machine.  You can then show anything you would normally show on a PC on the screens such as UStream, you could then simply use something such as PowerPoint or LibreOffice Impress to show slideshows on the screens.

Not sure what "tournament brackets" are but from a quick look online this looks like something you could build fairly easily in PowerPoint/LibreOffice Impress.Thanks for the advice!  I was looking at the Chromebox since its small, but I don't think I can load Microsoft Office on it if I want to PUT together a slideshow.  It might be easier to just go with an inexpensive small computer and find somewhere to mount it.Yeah, I'd go with a regular Windows PC - You can get things like the Intel NUC or Gigabyte Brix which are small and easy to mount hidden AWAY.  Of course it doesn't need to be mounted anywhere fancy - Hide it away and run long cables to the TVs.  Also bear in mind that HDMI cables tend to only go up to 15m in length so you'd ideally want the PC to be located within 15m of each TV.  Alternatively you can get systems that let you run HDMI over CAT6 cables (standard Ethernet cables) which are available in longer lengths, these systems work up to and beyond 60m.

So I had a laptop that was recently acting as if I thought it was infected. But it wasnt. In the end it was found that it was Windows 7 update service in background.

Laptop is an older Celeron M 1.6Ghz single-core with 2GB RAM.

CPU would peg to 100% at boot and sit at 100%and everything would be slow to respond. Looking in task manager at what is using up the CPU it shows percentages of use that add up to only about 20% used. Select show processes by all users and the task manager window will vanish for about 2 seconds and come back in which you would think it should now show ALL USERS processes. Yet it doesnt show what is eating up the other 80%. Instantly I'm thinking GREAT a Virus or Malware! Those hide themselves! 


Installed AVG and Malwarebytes and ran both with quick scans and nothing detected. Shut it down and rebooted it about 3 times and finally decided to give it a full scan vs quick scan and both came up with no problems however the AV scan TOOK forever to run with a CPU that was bogged down so I left it running overnight into the next day and it was finally complete.

Frustrated with the laptop that I was going to have to perform a reinstall of Windows 7 to it because its messed up somehow, I look and the CPU is no longer at 100% but now 60-80% in use. I go to shut the laptop off and during shutdown it starts to process 34 updates. These 34 updates take about 2.5 hours to complete at shutdown.

I come back to laptop and its off. I turn it on and it boots. Once desktop is up and services loaded the CPU's single core comes to rest at about 18% in use. I start to use laptop and it runs FINE. No more lag. I shut it down and reboot it again and it once again boots fine.

This laptop is not used MUCH and was probably not used for last 2 months. I was thinking initially how in the world could it be infected, but I had to run the scan when it was not acting correctly. The last thing I ever expected was Windows Update Service in background to "Hide Itself" when trying to see processes from all users to try to figure out what was bogging the CPU down.

Figured I'd share this here in case anyone else ends up with a computer ( likely a weak CPU like mine ) pegged at 100% that makes no sense and virus/malware scans come up clean that it might be Windows Update running in background and leaving it running for a long time and then rebooting it might fix it when all of a sudden it completes the updates at shutdown.

Next time I see this behavior I guess I will just be patient and let the computer run for like 24 hrs and then perform a reboot. 

Additionally its telling me to take the Free Windows 10 UPGRADE but when I attempted to do that it then states that this computer cant take the Windows 10 upgrade because the 915M chipset is too old. Yet microsoft doesnt have a routine to make the Windows 10 upgrade disappear from trying to get you to upgrade when the computer clearly cant run it. So I have to tell it to go AWAY with the X (close window) when it pops up telling me how great Windows 10 is and that I should upgrade to it. See Here...Thanks Patio.

I tried the method of uninstalling KB3035583 before and black flagging it as unwanted before and it comes back, so I have ignored the Win 10 annoyance on some other Windows 7 systems. I could just keep uninstalling it I suppose and flagging it as not wanted, but Microsoft is pretty insistent at pushing 10.  I use GWX Control Panel after running updates to get rid of the Windows 10 icon if it reappears.Gonna try the control panel method tonight.

Hi  -
I have Windows 7 in a Lenovo tower.  I use IE  11.  I am planning on buying a new keyboard and I want a smaller ONE than I have now.  I have checked Ebay and others.  Some of the keyboards list they have Bluetooth.  I don't understand what Bluetooth does.  Give me some direction and advice.  I don't play games  but use my computer for the SIMPLEST things.  Should I buy a keyboard with Bluetooth?   Thanks for any input.     BobShort answer: No. You don't want it.

Longer answer: Maybe. If you need it.
Bluetooth is for any computing  device  that can no take a standard keyboard. Such as a Smartphone or a Tablet. You regular desktop or laptop will let you have a keyboard suing any free USB port.

Bluetooth uses microwave to connect without wires. It is like the Wi-Fi used to connect to your network. But Bluetooth is suited for keyboards, mice, headphones and microphones. Or almost anything you need to connect without wires. Normally Bluetooth is for things that do not need high speed and long range.

EDIT: Maybe you want a mini keyboard that has normal USB wire.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Mini-USB-Keyboard-Black/dp/B000BSLU28
Notice there is no number pad. Geek-9pm  -
Thanks for your reply.  It was just what I wanted to hear.  I do not need high speed or long range.  Your suggestion was what I have been looking at except I want it to be wireless.  There were some on Ebay and I have yet to look at my local Best Buy.  Thanks again for the information.    BobBluetooth is short-range wireless. You can have bluetooth keyboards, mice, headphones, etc.
Why is the short answer " No...you don't want it" ? ?
Just curios Geek...
Quote from: patio on March 30, 2016, 04:17:28 PM

Why is the short answer " No...you don't want it" ? ?
Just curios Geek...

I have Windows 7 in a Lenovo tower.

Not that I'm excited to be Geek-9pm's advocate, but from the sounds of it the OP has a Tower PC which likely doesn't include bluetooth capability.

So a good friend of mine bought a laptop May of last year. She contacted me that her system was stuck in a boot loop and unable to get Windows to boot as well as unable to get to the system recovery via hot key. Additionally she did not create a system recovery set and so she needed to get a system recovery set from HP support.

She contacted HP support and initially some support guy in India just stated that we already supplied you with it, its on your hard drive and you need to pay us $36 for a REPLACEMENT recovery set.

She contacted me about this because her system was under warranty and I told her that under warranty in the past HP has no questions asked sent out the recovery media while the computer was still under warranty for free.

I got her systems serial number and part number and inquired on her behalf to support to see if maybe just contacting a different support person would yield better results. Sure enough I expressed that the laptop was still covered by warranty for another 24 days and I was told same story that she got that sorry your system is crashed but you will need to pay I was told somewhere between $30 and $50 for the recovery media.

My questions then were, why cant you give me a set price?

Can I use Paypal because I dont have a credit card?

Why do I need to pay for this when my system is still covered by warranty?

And I shared a fact that is truth which is that my friend lives in a nursing home and the nursing home gets all of her money except for $20 a month in Ohio.

The response back was that HP only accepts Major Credit CARDS and does not accept Paypal.

So I started telling them that there is no way for her to pay if they dont accept Paypal and that she has bought HP products in the past and this not covered under warranty is rediculous. I said how can I get the recovery media that i need to get my system up and running if you wont even accept paypal and I dont feel that I should really have to pay for this when my computer is still covered by a warranty. I said maybe I should have lied and told that the computer is completely dead and then you would have to send her a full replacement for free under warranty. I said this makes no sense to CHARGE under warranty terms still active.

I was then told that this is going to be handled over to their manager and the manager would give her a call. They asked what time was best to call her and I gave them a 3 hour window to call her and supplied her name and phone number.

That time window came and went. No phone call. I thought she was getting blown off. The following day I was going to contact them again on her behalf, but I got busy and didnt get online to do it. She finally got a phone call from them in which some manager guy was very apologetic and he confirmed with her her address at the nursing home and told her he was sorry that it was so difficult to get the system recovery media mailed out. She should receive the system recovery media over night delivery and receive it tomorrow.

So I wanted to share this to inform all that read this that it appears that under warranty. At least 2 support Techs INSIST on payment for the system recovery media while the computer is still covered by a valid warranty. Maybe this is their policy now and the warranty for the system does not cover the system recovery media, but in years past I ran into a similar situation where a netbook was still under warranty 5 years ago and I contacted the same support with serial number and part number/model # info and it was no problem. They sent it out right AWAY. This recent encounter with their support suggests that its quite possible that they no longer offer the system recovery media for free under warranty terms and that they were kind enough to make an exception for my friend in the nursing home to get the recovery media to avoid bad publicity since she is truly unable to purchase the media with their lack of accepting paypal.

I have always looked up to HP as one of the leaders of good computers and good support. This latest experience left me questioning just how good a warranty is, and if I ever had a computer with a simple problem of just needing a system recovery performed to it, should I completely LIE and say that the system is DEAD and have them mail out a replacement laptop for free. I am very glad that HP did finally get her the system recovery media though for free under warranty. But the insistence of having to pay for it when under warranty by 2 support employees makes me feel that they are using the recovery media as a cash cow even for people covered by warranty.

I will still buy HP products, but I will be more careful to tell my friends, family, and clients that I support to make sure that they create that recovery media on Disc's or USB stick as for its a gamble if HP will come thru for you under warranty and give you the media you need for free.

The good thing is that her hard drive is just corrupt, it sounds like the laptop wasnt plugged into outlet and it ran out of battery when performing system updates. I had her daughter create a live USB stick with Linux Mint on it and I showed her how to check the hard drive health in which the SMART data on the drive showed healthy. Once she gets that media from HP she will be all set and until then she can use the USB stick to surf the web with Linux Mint 17.3 Cinnamon 64-bit.

Here are ten simple passwords for kids.
dizzyworm80
hoteye59
palejam32
lumpylamp52
fathand95
cutedime81
swiftbike13
bigparrot84
uglyname93
wackytime43
These are from the site http://www.dinopass.com/
You can get more simple passwords easy to renumber and hard to guess.
No, don't use the ones given above. They are just samples of what the site does.  However, you can take  the concept to make your own. You make a list of words that kids can remember and  put them together. Bu putting the NUMBERS on the end the passwords become are hard  to guess.
What do you think?Its good to start out early teaching kids the concept of complex but simple passwords. My daughters for example is our dogs name followed by numbers and a special character at the end like $.

One thing that goes outside of this subject but important to state is that for user accounts on computers that kids use, its best to have them set up and running as a user and not as a power user or system admin.

My daughters Celeron D 2.8Ghz system running Windows XP Pro Sp3 with Geforce 6200 256MB AGP video card, she is set up as a user. She cant install any software, I have to perform software installations. I am hoping to teach her in the next year to only run as user and hand over the admin password to her and get her use to running with lesser privileges and only raising her privileges when she absolutely has to and then when done lowering them to teach her responsibility in protecting her system on her own.

Getting back to password subject its also best to teach kids not to use the same password for everything as for if you register with a website and the site is dirty they will run that password against everything and anything along with e-mail address you provided etc, and it wouldnt matter how complex the password is at that point its out and all the sites registered with that password and e-mail address combination are then easy targets for criminals.

There are 2 ways to deal with this:

First method a friend shared with me in which he has 3 passwords. One that is for registering with sites in which if someone ever got a hold of the password, the worst they could do is register as him to PLACES online. The second password being less used, possibly for e-mail and other personal sites. The third being one used for banking etc.

Second Method which I use is most secure. Each and every registration and account online has a unique user name and complex password. This way if any of the passwords get leaked/sniffed/stolen somehow, then they only have access to that one site as me, and no others. I also refuse to link Facebook and other accounts to online registrations. I also keep a small notebook with user names, passwords, and aliases registered under since its no ones business who I am, my BIRTHDAY, my address, and all other questions asked for websites that never need this truthful information to work for you, and so I lie when legal to do so. For sites that I register with in which I want to see if they sold my information to others I will GIVE my real address and then misspell my last name etc, and then when junk mail shows up with that unique typo in my last name I can contact the site that i registered with and turn them red faced when I caught them selling my information to others.

The only problem with having it this secure is that I cant remember all of the aliases and passwords and so if the notebook that its all written down it disappeared I am in trouble. So since i have accidentally misplaced this notebook within the home and GONE crazy looking for it, I created a exact copy of it and placed that other notebook into another fixed location so that if the notebook that is used primarily is hidden under a stack of books as was the case when I lost it last time in my office, I still have the other. I then about once a month bring both notebooks together and update them to make them both the same.


Geek's Post count on password advice is up to 75.... I have used a program called Keepass to handle my passwords. It has an encrypted database to hold the passwords user names etc... It lets you copy the password in a hash and paste it into a site. This takes stuff like key loggers out of the mix. Also if you don't paste it in fast the program clears the clipboard. Over all it is a nice program for this type of stuff.

http://keepass.info/

 

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May you enjoy the ANNIVERSARY of your exit FROMB the womb.....

Have a Great One...Happy Birthday BCP - HOPE you have a great DAY!!!  Happy Birthday and have a great day!

Would be nice to have a modular board as long as it wasnt expensive to do so. So many times in the past I have simply had to toss out boards that were functional but lacking features such as the motherboards with integrated video and no AGP or PCI Express SLOTS with weak integrated GPUs, as well as boards that only have 2 memory slots yet the system could support up to 8 GB RAM but only 2GB per slot, so that maximum RAM is really only 4GB when if it had 2 more slots it would be 8GB.

Most boards tossed out where lower end system boards from eMachines and Acers that lacked upgrade paths, although I did get burned 13 years ago with buying a HP Pavilion 2.0Ghz Pentium 4 tower that when inspecting the motherboard it had a location for a AGP slot, yet it was never stuffed with an AGP socket to take a gaming video card. Since I needed this system most importantly for gaming and PCI slot video cards were so lacking compared to AGP cards for performance I was forced to take a $300 loss on this selling the computer to someone else who wasnt a gamer. Looking back I probably could have just upgraded the motherboard for $100 moved CPU and RAM over, but at the time I just got rid of it and got a Compaq S6030NX instead for $549 at Radio Shack which came with a Athlon XP 2800+ 2.08Ghz CPU and it had a 8 x AGP slot to accept the Geforce FX 5200 128MB AGP video card for gaming.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/msi-modular-motherboard,31532.htmlModular Motherboards were already done in the early 90's. The idea was that as technologies changed (ISA, PCI, VL-Bus, etc.) you would swap out parts of the motherboard. Computer Chronicles COVERED ONE product that did this:
here (shortly after the 16 minute mark).

over-modularization simply doesn't work in the longer term. Components become more expensive, there are more failure points (More card-edge or pin connectors to connect all the components) and the interconnections have to be designed with some assumptions going forward, and eventually a new technology will break those assumptions.It's an interesting idea but as far as I can tell it would be impossible from a technical standpoint.  For example, it's hinting at just replacing the IO shield or PCI slot area to customise the interfaces AVAILABLE which totally ignores the fact that it's not the connectors themselves that defines what is available, it's the rest of the motherboard, namely the chipset or other controller chips themselves.  Not to mention that motherboards are now so cheap that something like this would be almost impossible to price competitively.

It me a bit of the NLX form factor (That I coincidentally made a video about a couple of days ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTlQF35p9_I) where the idea was that motherboards have a standardised card edge connector that goes into a slot on a riser board that provides all the I/O and card connections.  It totally falls flat when new standards come out (e.g. SATA, PCI-E) where the card edge connector would have had to have been updated to carry these signals.Your NLX Video was what I was thinking of with regard to new technologies breaking assumptions. When it was designed there was no way to design it to be forward thinking enough that SATA capability could be added onto it.

Now, my more direct thinking with regards to a modular motherboard was the sort of idea where you would practically build your motherboard out of different components; There would be different "modules" to support different expansion options, Memory, CPU sockets, and I/O. So you'd swap out a DDR3 memory board for a DDR4 memory board; an I/O Board with EIDE support for one that supports SATA; a expansion board with one PCI-E 16x slot for one that has two to support crossfire/SLI, etc. At first glance it sounds like a great way to make a forward-compatible system but the way those components work together don't make them particularly upgradable; SLI/Crossfire would depend on chipset support, which also determines I/O support as well as CPU support, and CPU support determines Memory Support, and so on.

While SEARCHING for information about the Wi-Fi BANDS, this link was found.

Wi-Fi / WLAN Channels, Frequencies, Bands & Bandwidths

Quote

- Wi-Fi / WLAN / 802.11 channels, their CHANNEL frequencies and bandwidth allocations around the globe, spectral MASK and summary of which channels can be used together for WLAN solutions

Coworker today told me that his HP Desktop failed to take the Windows 10 free upgrade from 7 because the integrated GPU wasnt compatible. So he bought a cheap video card that is Windows 10 compatible and installed it. He goes to TRY to upgrade to Windows 10 since his system now meets the requirements and he is told he has to wait 30 DAYS before he can upgrade. There is a 30 day hardware CHECK lockout for Windows 10 upgrade.

I have never heard of such a thing, but I also have very limited exposure to Windows 10 upgrades. Anyone know anything about a lockout period in which you have to wait 30 days before you can upgrade to 10?I have a hard time imagining that's true. This is certainly the first time I've heard of it, anyway. And a quick Google search doesn't result in any related hits.I tried google too... figured I'd check here though.I found ONE comment on an article where somebody had this problem, it was related to how recently the version of Windows that was being upgraded had been activated, from what the commentor described.

until saturday, my dell keyboard was working alright, i went to where all the devices are on the computer
there is a keyboard on there but it has some kind of YELLOW symbol on it

further investigating, and here is what i found

there is a problem with the driver for hid keyboard device. REINSTALLING the driver might help.
i tried three keyboards on there, and i tried all the PORTS

i tried the keyboard in another computer and it workedYou have done the basic things.
Every time you turn off  the computer and turn it BACK on, Windows swill again look for the keyboard. So KEEP trying different ports, each time turn off and on the computer.
New keyboards are not expensive. You can get a generic USB keyboard for $25 or less from mail order firms. Even at a local Walmart some are prices at $12. So rather that spend more time, just get a new one.

I just read a post by By Alexandra Blackshaw  on Smarter Web Life .
Sounds like she wants to blame Microsoft for the weakness in Internet security.
She asserts that May 5 is the deadline to fix Internet security. Or else.
Or lease what?
Here is her rant:
Not To Go Online If You Live In US
Quote

Earlier this month we saw thousands of people across the US get their hands on the the latest Online ID protection from SaferWeb, after yet another increase in identity theft and web-history monitoring.
We have however been advised that because of its unexpected popularity, availability is very limited and is now on a first come first serve basis.