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Hello all.

I've got this laptop which is getting too hot (CPU gets near 60°C sometimes and other components get 73°C constantly.. way too hot and unpleasant to rest your hand palms on).

Now, I thought, OK let's go buy a laptop fan so that this heat at least cools down.
Then I looked at the dBA rating (decibel) of the fan and I said to myself "is this loud enough to be disturbing?",
so I went to look it up and here are the ratings:

10dBA - Normal Breathing
20dBA - Mosquito or Rustling Leaves
30dBA - A Whisper

The particular fan I'm interested in is this one:

http://bit.ly/9Y2Q4D

specs:
# Sound 23.8 dBA - 27.1 dBA
# Speed 400RPM±150 - 600RPM±150

Here is the fan listing of the shop:

http://bit.ly/d1ps6x


So my questions are:

- Can someone recommend me a good fan out of that list?
- Is the sound of the fan I just posted too loud or disturbing loud? Need some advice on that.


Thanks

unless yoy know exactly what your doing, i dont recommend taking apart laptops you might open up a 'pandoras box' that you cant get closed again

oh and they have pads you can put them on to cool them off i believe

I don't think you understood my questions but that's fine.
I was looking for laptop coolers. The ones you place under your laptop.

Current CPU temps: 75°C each. Too hot.

I just read that most good coolers lower the temperature up to 5°C lower..
that still would mean 70°C hot laptop..

I don't know what to do here.

Couple more questions:

- I've read from benchmarks that most fans cool laptops up to 5°C. That's not really enough for me.
I want it to be 50°C, not 70°C.

- Are there notebook cooler out there that cool my machine more than 10°C cooler?
yeah i think they are called 'cooling pads' simply referring to them as 'fans' can be MISLEADING since there are indeed 'fans' inside the laptop on the motherboard but oh well no harm done as long as you know what your talking about thats the important thinglol.. 84°C cores... that's it I'm buying the cooling pad lol.The temperatures you describe aren't necessarily dangerous or a CAUSE for CONCER, depending on the laptop/components in question. I do agree though that a hot laptop is no fun to USE, a cooling pad should help with the external temperatures at least.
Be aware that manufacturers always lie about decibel and airflow ratings for fans - one manufacturer's fan may claim 60cfm at 10db, and another 10 cfm at the same db, yet neither might be right.
Just wanted to add that info, I've never used a laptop cooler so I can't recommend anything specific.Is it a problem to run the new laptop fans at the same time as the internal laptop fan?
Also if I turn off the internal fan it will probably fry the laptop.nothing you can do will turn off the internal fans besides place your laptop on a blanket and block the vents

sure go for the cooling pad they are cheap enough and if it works GREAT i just spent $35 for a leather case and silicon keyboard protecters for my notebook i love my baby Cough, cheap in the US. I paid 80 euros for mine.should be cheaper for europ coz isnt euros at a higher rate than dollars?Yes it is.
I just bought the best fan. =)

How to use Msconfig.

Click Start>Run
Type Msconfig
Click on services tab.
Check Hide all microsoft services.
Click on Disable all button.
Click on Startup Tab.
Click on Disable all button.
Check the anti virus and Internet program.
Click on Apply and Ok and Restart the computer.Quote from: mansur2010 on June 30, 2010, 11:11:35 PM

How to use Msconfig.

Click Start>Run
Type Msconfig
Click on services tab.
Check Hide all microsoft services.
Click on Disable all button.
Click on Startup Tab.
Click on Disable all button.
Check the anti virus and Internet program.
Click on Apply and Ok and Restart the computer.

I have a gateway dx4300-01h
Features: 2.6GHz AMD Phenom II X4 Quad-Core 925 Processor Genuine Windows Vista Home Premium 8GB 800MHz DDR2 SDRAM memory 1TB 7200RPM SATA hard drive ATI RADEON HD 4650 graphics with 1GB discrete video memory Blu-ray disc reader 18x DVD+/-R/RW

I'm not sure why it shuts down but when it does its when i'm playing a COMPUTER game like sims 3 or minecraft.
I just recently uninstalled a bunch of junk wich definetly seemed to make it run smoother. I also opened it up and cleaned out the heat sink, after doing so it is much quiet but it didn't seem to improve performance at all. When it shuts down (on its own) it was getting really loud, but since i cleaned out the heatsink it doesn't give me any warning before it shuts down (it doesn't get loud)
I don't know what's happening, maybe i need a better heatsink FAN, maybe i need a new graphics card, maybe a better power supply???

Before i cleaned it out the noise was from the fans, not sure wich though.

Why does my computer shutdown?CPU or GPU is overheating. Monitor temps with HWInfo 32 for Win7-32bit or HWInfo64 for Win7 64-bit.
http://www.hwinfo.com/Ok, i got the software.
My cpu was about 40 celsius, or 104 fahrenheit
And my gpu was about 110 celsius- 230 fahrenheitQuote from: jaqattack on October 10, 2011, 04:53:28 PM

Ok, i got the software.
My cpu was about 40 celsius, or 104 fahrenheit
And my gpu was about 110 celsius- 230 fahrenheit

The card I'm using is the XFX HD-587A-ZNF9 Radeon HD 5870
When I bought this card I got it for both the sheer power, but also because it supports 3 monitors. I've seen pics of people running 2 of these vid. cards in Crossfire mode utilizing 6 monitors. I however am only using 1, because 1 alone nearly over HEATS my NZXT zero case and its 18 fans. I'm using Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit and a Asus Crosshair III motherboard. I've tried using both Windows' default video graphics settings and the vid. cards Catalyst CONTROL center to get all 3 monitors to work.
I can only ever get 2 running as 1 must always be DISABLED, yet both Catalyst and Windows RECOGNIZES all 3 monitors it just won't extend the screen between the 3. I have my main monitor the 24" 1080p widescreen (DCLCD DCL24A) attached to the HDMI port and set as main display. My secondary monitor a 1080p 19" square (LG L1933TR) hooked up to one of the 2 DVI ports; Both work fine. Unfortunately when I try and get my (Dell 1503FP) hooked up to the secondary DVI port the computer and video card recognize it, but the screen stays black. When I try to extend video between the 3 It says I have to disable a monitor and when I do the 19" shuts off the 24" switches it resolution to what the 19" had and the 16" dell then turns on.
I can't for the life of me figure out how to get all 3 to work simultaneously.
Any Suggestions.
The technology for three monitors is "eyefinity" yes?
I havn't had the CHANCE to look at it...I have an HD 4870 so I don't have it but make sure it doesn't need to be enabled first.I'm sorry, but I got lost at the 18 fans. The stock NZXT case has eight fans, which is a lot, and you added ten more?Quote from: rthompson80819 on June 30, 2010, 06:30:15 PM

I'm sorry, but I got lost at the 18 fans. The stock NZXT case has eight fans, which is a lot, and you added ten more?

I just upgrade it my pc from window xp to window 7 and my pc doesn't start up and not EVEN in safe mode, I changed the boot to start from cd drive and

then from hard disk and not responding and the pc run for hours with window start. Now I can't even downgrade to xp ANYMORE as it not running the from cd.Before installing W7 did you check the Windows Upgrade Advisor and HARDWARE COMPATIBILITY?

hey!

i got an old but in very good shape T2000 SX and i wanted to ask: how much is it worth?? i would like to sell it!

THANK YOU!http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-TOSHIBA-T2000SX-386-NOTEBOOK-LAPTOP-COMPUTER-WORKS-/260844291461
truenorthIt would only really be worth anything to a collector, but then again they might not offer you much for it. If it's all in working order, you might get a bit of money for it, maybe $20 or something. Unlike some other old and ANTIQUE things, old computers and parts aren't worth anything to many people. You COULD TRY THROWING it on Ebay, but like that Truenorth listed you probably won't get much.

my monitor sometimes changes COLOR. my display sometimes gets dark or dull...
what sld i do..
iv E also re installed driver...Quote from: japneet on June 27, 2010, 01:43:40 AM

my monitor sometimes changes color. my display sometimes gets dark or dull...
what sld i do..
iv e also re installed driver...

Alright, so I'm doing a major upgrade for a friend, but he is on a strict budget. The problem is the POWER supply. His power supply is not in the recommended range for the VIDEO card. I have a year-old cheap Sunbeam 580W power supply to put in for him, but it has very limited connectors, and no 6-pin VGA. It is more than enough to power the rest of his hardware, but I don't believe there will be 2 4-pin connectors for a 4-pin to 6-pin adapter. Is there an adapter to keep his current PSU running as a VGA only supply? I could just USE a 4-pin to 6-pin for it, but it obviously does not run with just being plugged into the wall and the video card. Thanks for any help.Quote from: jwelch7200 on June 17, 2010, 09:13:11 PM

Alright, so I'm doing a major upgrade for a friend, but he is on a strict budget. The problem is the power supply. His power supply is not in the recommended range for the video card. I have a year-old cheap Sunbeam 580W power supply to put in for him, but it has very limited connectors, and no 6-pin VGA. It is more than enough to power the rest of his hardware, but I don't believe there will be 2 4-pin connectors for a 4-pin to 6-pin adapter. Is there an adapter to keep his current PSU running as a VGA only supply? I could just use a 4-pin to 6-pin for it, but it obviously does not run with just being plugged into the wall and the video card. Thanks for any help.

Hi;

I have a Verbatim 1TB external USB HDD which I have had for a couple of years. Its partitioned into 1 x HFS for backing up using Time Machine for my 2 x Macs and 1 x FAT32 as external storage to share between my 2 x Macs and my variouWindows XP and 7 PCs.

Just lately it has been having problems being recognised and looks like SOMETHING has become corrupted. i.e I'll power it up attached to my Macbook and the HFS is not visible and the FAT32 shows up but as empty and not formatted. I just BOOTED into XP on the Mac using Boot Camp and the FAT32 is visible as are the contents but I cannot read or write to / from the drive.

Any ideas how I can fix this or retrieve the data and replace the drive, when trying to copy FILES to the Drive I recieved a Data Error (Cyclic redundancy check) erro message. When trying to read file such as a film VLC simply said that the file was corrupted.

Could it be the HDD or the USB contoller in the casing?

Quote from: JonnyAlpha on September 25, 2011, 05:45:16 AM

Hi;

I have a Verbatim 1TB external USB HDD which I have had for a couple of years. Its partitioned into 1 x HFS for backing up using Time Machine for my 2 x Macs and 1 x FAT32 as external storage to share between my 2 x Macs and my variouWindows XP and 7 PCs.

Just lately it has been having problems being recognised and looks like something has become corrupted. i.e I'll power it up attached to my Macbook and the HFS is not visible and the FAT32 shows up but as empty and not formatted. I just booted into XP on the Mac using Boot Camp and the FAT32 is visible as are the contents but I cannot read or write to / from the drive.

Any ideas how I can fix this or retrieve the data and replace the drive, when trying to copy files to the Drive I recieved a Data Error (Cyclic redundancy check) erro message. When trying to read file such as a film VLC simply said that the file was corrupted.

Could it be the HDD or the USB contoller in the casing?

Hi,
Has anyone any IDEA where I can get the above utility. I've spent quite some time trying to find a resetter but each time I GO to a site the utility does not include the P50 printer

regards,

DaveDave... when all else fails YOUTUBE!
this is suppose to be universal
seems all but a few of the fix it vids T50's are all in Spansh

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iJqLDfAOys&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHKmHILAP_c&feature=related

here is the app to download and 2 of the keys

http://inkreset.com/

the reset keys

unikey4224
or
unikey2011

hope this HELPS you out
Jim

I need some advice. I have an old analogue Samsung HDD TV Recorder (PVR). Its functions have gradualy been GOING wrong lately and it is due for replacemet with digital model. It does still have several programme recordings that i am reluctant to lose. The machine has a DVD-R drive which no longer works and I have been using a Video grabber DEVICE to copy programmes to my PC to burn on DVD. This has proved time consuming and unsatisfactory.

I read somewhere that you could take out the HDD unit from a PVR and connect it directly to a PC but i do know know what other hardware or software i might need or even if it is possible. Can anyone help me here? I dont have the hardware specs to hand at the MOMENT, but i will look it up and post them if this helps.

ThanksWith most of them the HDD NEEDS to be UNLOCKED for a PC to recognise it...
Find some Forums that deal with the specific hardware as it is different between Brands.

HELLO COMPUTER GURU

I HAVE ONE VIA MOTHER BOARD IN THIS NO MONITOR DISPLAY I CHECKED WITH OTHER RAM , SMPS, AND RESET THE CMOS ALSO THEN ALSO I DIDN'T GET THE DISPLAY IN THE MONITOR. THE MOBD IS FELL DOWN FROM THE CHAIR. AFTER THAT THE DISPLAY IS GONE. SO PLEASE GIVE ME THE SOLUTION FOR PROBLEM. WITH THE MOTHERBOARD DIAGRAM I WILL BE VERY THANK FULL TO YOU .




BY KHALID With the limited information it will be difficult to help but here goes.

When you say the MOBO fell from the chair I take it had the mobo out of the PC?

Do you get a POST beep and does it sound like the PC is booting up OK?

Are you using a graphics chip BUILT into the motherboard, if so you could try using a Graphics Card (borrow one if you don't have a spare one laying around.

Whats the model number of the motherboard?

Hi,
Recently, my 3 month old HP Pavilion Entertainment dm3 hard drive became corrupted and was replaced under warranty. However, as I lost my camera around the same time, i am desperate to recover 6 months of TRAVEL pictures from the old hard drive!
As i don't have tech insurance, the guy on the helpline suggested i buy a HDD Docking Station and that I would be able to extract my files through this interface at minimal cost.
I purchased Win-star Communicator C1 SATA HDD Docking Station. However, now that i have it, I am unsure how to extract the files. the instructions with the device are for new devices that need new partitions. Intitially, my corrupted hard drive showed up in the Disk management window as Disk 1, but INSTEAD of being unallocated, it was the same as the top one (Disk 0). It said that it was healthy and primary partition.
So it tried to simply open the disk drive but it said it needed to be reformatted. i did not want to proceed any further because i didnt want to risk losing the photos, so i turned the computer off for a while.
i've now decided to have another attempt, but now the corrupt hard drive isn't showing up at all in the disk management window.
can someone please explain to me in layman's terms what i am doing wrong and what i need to do?

many thanks!
Quote from: bea on June 29, 2010, 05:32:13 PM

...hard drive became corrupted and was replaced under warranty....but now the corrupt hard drive isn't showing up at all in the disk management window...

...Although Windows may not be able to read the lot, there is a program made by the same people as CCleaner called Recuva(Recover)
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
The program can scan the partition data (Or what is left) and recover the files one by one from the drive.
I have used it to recover whole drives, with good results...

...Recuva does work on drives without complete partition information, because I have used it for the same purpose.

Hola señoritas

I run the Nvidia 275 Core XXX edition and I use a HP wide 20"-screen and I have been running this since summer last year.

As always I have been running the 1680x1050 resolution but today I noticed my screen had changed resolution to 1600x768 and I cannot find my desired resolution in the list (1680x1050).

I tried downloading a new Nvidia driver but that didnt work so I'm fresh out of ideas of what the problem might be.


Any ideas?I resolved the ISSUE however why this happened is still odd.

It was removed from the resolution list in nvidias control panel,

I was however able to get it back with some searching but I want to know what the cause of this was...so please post ideas Sometimes SOMETHING similar happens to me, and I atcually have to change the DVI port I'm using in order to resolve it.
I'm still unsure whether the issue is my card or my monitor though.The DCC of the monitor is probably being reported incorrectly at times.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Display_Data_Channel

Quote

The Display Data Channel or DDC is a collection of digital communication protocols between a computer display and a graphics adapter which allows the display to communicate its supported display modes to the adapter and adjust monitor parameters such as brightness and contrast from the computer host.

even though I solved it in the computer's reso, I cant change it in games e.g. Anyone know what this is? I'm going to try with a different cable.

it seems that anytime i use my graphics card the computer restarts. It only happens with games, sometimes dvds, new versions of firefox that use OpenGL, and when i run a demo for the nvida graphics card. Im running Windows 7 that came with a Geforce G210. The drivers are up to date, and here is the problems description after it restarts. There is no actual blue screen when the computer restarts, it just turns black.
Its an HP p6350z with, AMD Athlon(tm) II X2 240 processor 2.80 GHz, 4gb ram, 64 bit. the PSU is; Liteon, model number; PS-5301-08HA. However i bought the computer refurbished and it seems as if its had this problem since IVE gotten it.

Problem signature:
Problem Event NAME:BlueScreen
OS Version:6.1.7600.2.0.0.768.3
Locale ID:1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode:124
BCP1:0000000000000000
BCP2:FFFFFA80057C18F8
BCP3:0000000000000000
BCP4:0000000000000000
OS Version:6_1_7600
Service Pack:0_0
Product:768_1

Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\092011-14242-01.dmp
C:\Users\1\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-40981-0.sysdata.xml

Help or advice would be appreciated!Quote from: ermbmx2 on September 23, 2011, 12:15:33 PM

...It only happens with games, sometimes dvds, new versions of firefox that use OpenGL, and when i run a demo for the nvida graphics card...

Hi everyone. i would like to ask inputs on how i can convert 5.25 floppy to 3.5..this is actually intended to upgrade my machine which uses a 5.25 FD as system and program storage.1. Disconnect 5.25 floppy drive cable.
2. Remove 5.25 floppy drive
3. Install 3.5 drive
4. Connect 3.5 drive cable

Quote from: Kirri on June 29, 2010, 08:24:49 PM

Hi everyone. i would like to ask inputs on how i can convert 5.25 floppy to 3.5..this is actually intended to upgrade my machine which uses a 5.25 FD as system and program storage.

1. Disconnect 5.25 floppy drive cable.
2. Remove 5.25 floppy drive
3. Install 3.5 drive
4. Connect 3.5 drive cable

Was this machine used to keep track of pairs of animals on a large boat?

and do nt forget to update the bios

but of course save all your settings before you mess with the bios

Unless they are using a 8088/8086 IBM PC or XT (which is certainly a possibility), the BIOS will know how to handle a 3-1/2" drive just fine.

Have been making MP3 cds lately but all of a sudden I get the message E:\ is not accessible. Incorrect function. The drive will still play a cd or OPEN any software put in the drive but will not let me write files to a cd.
Thanks for any help out there.POssibly the CD MODE write laser has FAILED. It may WELL be the case that as Salmon T is suggesting. However before rushing out to replace the drive there are a couple of things i suggest.
1. Download the free version of "CD burner Xp" http://cdburnerxp.se/download.php and give it a try and report back to us.
2. Try and find an opportunity to remove the optical drive and place it in another computer (actually you need not physically install it in a bay).You can just connect it to the power and ide cables (setting the pins as needed) and see if your results are different on the other computer.
There can be various causes for the issue you are experiencing including the one ST has stated. Let us KNOW the results of these suggestions before replacing it.truenorth

I have a gateway and every memory card I put into my computer it says write protected. I made sure I MOVED the SWITCH and it stills says it. Sometimes those switches STOP working right. I have two cards I can no longer use because of that.Just to be sure, borrow a memory card reader to be connected on any USB port. It does not follow by coincidence if all memory cards you insert behaves exactly the same.I'm no computer guru but I'll try to help until one of the experts respond.
If you select 'my Computer' then select that memory card in question, then right click on it and select 'Properties', what does it reveal as checked in the "attributes" window.
Example of mine attached:

Hope this helps.
Mike

[regaining space - attachment deleted by admin]

So I am having a weird PROBLEM where my computer would randomly freezes for around 30 second to 1 min. During that 'freeze' time, i can still move my mouse around and click on things but the cursor would just show as busy. After the FROZEN time has passed, all the actions done during the freezing time would processed all at once. I brought out the resource MONITOR and during that freeze time, my CPU seems normal, but my harddrive's highest active time is 100% and not read/writing anydata. I have ran memory test, harddrive test and turns out fine. Also, this happened the second time when i was re-installing windows 7 64bit at the part where i was prompt to enter the product serial and kind of froze and then resume too. (Don't know if this is the same case). Anyway , any help will be appreciated as I have been dealing with this for the past week. Below is what I have done so far but did not helped:

1. RMA the harddrive
2. Change sata ports/cables for harddrive.
3. Set to high-performance in power.
4. Turn off hardddrive sleep/power savings
5. Update the intel chip set.
6. Reinstall win7 in both IDE/ACHI mode.
7. Pray every night.

Below are my computer specs:

WDC Black,1TB,7200rpm,64MB,SATA,6.0Gb/s 3.5"

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB)

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz

OCZ ZX Series 850W Fully-Modular 80PLUS Gold

MSI N560GTX-Ti Hawk GeForce GTX 560 Ti

GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD4-B3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 Quote

Also, this happened the second time when i was re-installing windows 7 64bit at the part where i was prompt to enter the product serial and kind of froze and then resume too

No but thanks for the thought.

prevalent [ˈprɛvələnt]
adj
1. widespread or current
2. superior in force or power; predominantokay Quote from: bvs1216 on JUNE 28, 2010, 07:58:16 AM

what did i receive a warning for am i attacking other members?

I wonder if anyone can help me with a problem i seem to be having with my All In One Printer.

I have an Epson Stylus Photo RX520 which i have had for a number of years, currently being used with a Packard Bell desktop running Windows 7 Home Premuim x64, which i have had for about a year and until now both machines have worked well together.

The problem is mainly with scanning to PC. I was scanning a magazine to create a multipage PDF file from the scans, and had done several pages when i suddenly received a 'Communication Error' and had to save the document prematurely, and restart the printer. i turned off the printer but was unable to restart it after several attempts. I left the machine alone for about half an hour and the printer did switch back on. i started scanning again and the same thing happened again after only a few pages scanned. Getting nowhere i stopped using the printer and left it alone until the next day, when it appeared to be working fine, so i tested general printing and photocopying functions and they seemed ok. Then i tried scanning again and after about 5 pages scanned the same problem happened again.

I thought the first time the problem occured that i had been over working the machine and accepted it, but for it to happen again the next day seems to suggest something is wrong, but i do not know what. I am very disapointed and frustrated, since the scanner (and indeed the whole machine) when it works still produced excellent results and i am reluctant to replace it at this time. Quote

I have an Epson Stylus Photo RX520 which i have had for a number of years,

But only recently you started to use it with Windows 7 64 bit. Is that right?
Did you find 64 bit drivers for the printer?

No, your scanner is TAIN compliant and you can use the built-in scan software inn Windows 7.

You have already been to this link?
http://www.epson.co.uk/Printers-and-All-In-Ones/Inkjet/Epson-Stylus-Photo-RX520/Drivers-Support#

My original questions was whether or not you are using the 32 bit version or the 64 bit version of Windows 7. Many are now using the 64 bit version, but some manufactures are slow to release 64 bit drivers. As I mentioned before, I lack the skills to explain why it makes a difference. You have to know if it is 64 bit. If it is 64 bit, you must have the 64 bit drivers. even if it seems to work most of the time.

The 64 bit version can run 32 bit programs, but not 32 bit drivers.

If you have the 32 bit version of Windows 7 installed, then install older programs in the XP mode.
Windows 7 features: XP Mode

Pleas not, the XP mode does NOT convert 32 bit drivers to 64 bit.

I will ask again, is there a scanner application, with comparable features to Epson Scan that i could use instead. and is either free or not too expensive to buy?

I am trying to install a game and the installer GOES from installing the game straight to "Updating DirectX" However when it enters that state it POPS out and says: "the system administrator has set policies to prevent this installation". And when the installation is finished it's missing some folders, seems LIKE the directX error messed the installation up. I've tried some fixes like editing in administrator tool but still doesn't work!

I'm running win7 ultimate 32-bit

Sincerely, Phallansomebody probably set your computer to where you cant install ANYTHING withought being an administratorI am the administrator though! How do I CHANGE it? :p

Hello there, this desktop I'm working on is overheating and i want to replace the heat sink/fan and apply some thermal compound to the CPU.
For the life of me, I can't FIGURE out how to remove it. It doesn't have any screws or any latches(that I can see)
I have LOOKED at the manual for the desktop model and it doesn't provide any info on how to remove it
Please, any help WOULD be greatly appreciated

Desktop Model: Sony Viao PCV-RZ56G
Link To Manual http://www.docs.sony.com/release/PCVRZ56G.pdf

Links to the pictures I TOOK of the fan/heat sink

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/migueloetb/Computer%20Help/84fd4184.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/migueloetb/Computer%20Help/ecfd9c80.jpgLooks to me that you could just pull that black plastic arm up to release it.Quote from: Linux711 on December 05, 2011, 05:24:39 PM

Looks to me that you could just pull that black plastic arm up to release it.

:)hi all in this FORUM I am studying my A + I hope to get my certification this END of the year Good for you!

Welcome to CH.

I just installed a new SATA dvd burner. Now when I start up my comp, It freezes at the BOOT screen. When I unplug the DVD burner, everything RUNS fine again. My Motherboard is a DFI Lanparty PRO 875b, is my motherboard just to old or what?It needs to be on SATA 3 or higher...

I am looking to build a new computer and wold like to use a S.S.D. for the O.S. I just don't know any thing about them. It is my understand that they are fast and don't fail very often. I have no idea what brand is good or any thing like that. Can any one help with that type of information? Thank you much for your time.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SSD


Quote

A solid-state drive (SSD) is a data STORAGE device that uses solid-state memory to store persistent datawith the intention of providing access in the same manner of a traditional block i/o hard disk drive. SSDs are distinguished from traditional hard disk drives (HDDs), which are electromechanical devices containing spinning disks and movable read/write heads. In contrast, SSDs use microchips which retain data in non-volatile memory chips[1] and contain no moving parts.[1] Compared to electromechanical HDDs, SSDs are typically less susceptible to physical shock, are silent, have lower access time and latency, but are more expensive per gigabyte (GB) and typically support a limited number of writes over the life of the device. SSDs use the same interface as hard disk drives, thus easily replacing them in most applications.

In my opinion SSD's are not quite ready for prime time...
I'll stick to SATA's ...for now at least.

...
* Sustained Sequential Read: Up to 200 MB/s
* Sustained Sequential Write: Up to 45 MB/s
...

You talked me out of it. Thanks. That is why I come here to find out about stuff.

Alright, I own this old Laptop the HP pavillion ZD7000, that i mainly use to stream youtube videos on my Tv, and one day i put new thermal paste on and after that everything worked perfectly fine until about a month later. At FIRST I noticed the computer would restart when ever i connect my 1TB external HDD from seagate, and when playing movies and youtube videos after about 25 mins would give me a blue screen saying "begin dumb of physical memory'. I though this computer was full of junk and re-installed WINDOWS thinking it would fix the problems. I had gotten all the drivers and everything ran fine. The computer ran faster and quicker but the problem with the blue screen didn't disappear. I though it was the RAM (will list the specs at the end) so i inserted the Ubuntu CD version 9.10 and began a memory test, which my computer passed perfectly, and also the HD test. I have no idea what's going on and im starting to think that the CPU is overheating........ Is there a piece of software that could tell me what temperature my CPU is running at, and what temp is should be?

Specs:
HP pavillion ZD7000
3.00 GHz intel pentium 4 processor
512 MB of (i think DDR 1 not 100% sure but its 256 X2)
80GB HDD
Screen is bad and therefore im using it as a youtube TV. Test the memory again with this:
http://www.memtest86.com/download.html

Download the "ISO image for creating bootable CD (Windows - zip)", burn it to a CD then boot the computer from that CD. Run the test and let it run for multiple passes (this will take hours, best to do it overnight). Errors won't always come on the first pass, sometimes they'll show up on the second, third, or later passes. If you get any errors, remove the RAM and make sure the contacts aren't corroded or dirty and the slot is clean, put it back in and run the test a second night. If the errors persist, the RAM is bad.

Run it with Ubuntu for a while and actively use it for a while (surf the web, watch videos, play music, whatever) and see if it gets an error or lucks up.

What did you use to diagnose the hard drive? If you didn't use the hard drive manufacturer's tool, download it and try it. They should be able to tell you better than anyone whether the drive is malfunctioning or not.

As for heat, download Speedfan:
http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php

It runs in Windows and will tell you the CPU and other temps.For the bluescreen error messages : Download BlueScreenView (in Zip file) then unzip(extract by right clicking) and run Bluescreenview.
Go to Edit -Select All, File and Saved Selected Item. Create a name for the report, just make sure it is a .txt extension file like Report.txt. Copy/Paste ALL the created report on your next post.
alright here are the results from speed fan:

at start-up the system ran at: 54C (degrees)
then it began to rise from 55, 56, 59, 60 and stayed at 60 Degrees which watching youtube and simpsons movies online
the most it went was 64C and only taking up 30% CPU.
I used Ubuntu 9.10 and when i went to 'try ubuntu without doing changes to computer' it started to boot and after the boot screen i got a flashing purple screen, same thing when i clicked install ubuntu.
Im going to try the memory test and will try the newest version of ubuntu or at least 10.04. the MEMTEST is the exact same one thats on the ubuntu 9.10 CD and it passed the testQuote from: comda on September 09, 2011, 05:45:57 PM

...
Specs:
HP pavillion ZD7000
3.00 GHz intel pentium 4 processor
512 MB of (i think DDR 1 not 100% sure but its 256 X2)
80GB HDD
Screen is bad and therefore im using it as a youtube TV.

i used the HD diagnostics given on the ubuntu 9.10 linux CD and the result was that it was alright. Im not quite sure where to get a HP diagnostics tool,

...are you sure it could be the drive? ...

I have a Pane Digital Supper Nova 8 inch Tablet.

I say to charg it for the first time for 5 Hours.

So I pluged it into an Outlet and after it started to charge I had to unplug it and move it to another Outlet.

Do you think this massed up the charge of the Battery?

I hope it does not think this is the new charge or do they not work like that?R chargeable devices should be fulling changed before you use them. But even if you don't do that, they should work alright anyway. The newer batteries are easier to recharge.
Even if you thin k is was your fault, you should take it back if you have any trouble. Thee is a tenancy for some vendors to sell defective materials that have hidden flaws. Especially in retail sales. As a consumer, you have the right to return an item that does not work as advertised.

What I am saying is that undercharging a battery does not cause mediated failure. Even undercharges, it should work for 2 or 3 hoers for every hour spent charging.

Here is an article whit general information about rechargeable batteries.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rechargeable_batteryYou do NOT indicate what type of battery you are asking about. While the "memory " effect of the discharge/charging aspects can effect the level of charge that a battery can accept it is more of a factor with Ni-Cad batteries than with Lithium Ion batteries (but it can still be a factor with those as well). Your interruption of the charging cycle will more than likely have a similar affect to having NOT charged the battery to it's full capacity before use (even if in fact you did NOT actually use it). Generally to overcome that issue a number of complete discharges followed each time by a FULL charge may return the battery to full (duration) charge-ability. If we are talking about a lithium -ion battery a word of caution if they are allowed to discharge below about 10% (will occur over time even if not used) then no mater how new they are they CANNOT be recharged. They are dead.truenorthtruenorth, please include some references. If you are a Senior Engineer for one of the battery companies. pleas say so.

One can Google 'battery charge myths' for some perhaps helpful information from sources that claim to be authoritative.
Here is the fists I got from Google.
http://www.greenbatteries.com/batterymyths.html
Quote from: truenorth on December 01, 2011, 12:16:24 PM

"memory " effect

Since we are talking batteries, I just had an unexpected ...

If you are having battery problems get out your volt meter and measure the battery voltage.

I once measured a 12Volt car battery by mistakenly crossing the positive cable with a crescent wrench to the frame...
I don't recommend this method at all.

The status of the battery is defendant on the observation of the colour of the stars that explode in one's cranium. Given the extremely brief opportunity to make the colour distinction (which varies with amount of battery available power) it has been determined that this is a highly inaccurate method of determining existing degree of battery charge (other than of course if the battery is actually dead ---in which case the method is very accurate).truenorth

Hello I just replaced my motherboard with an Aopen vk8t800a-lf, when it boots up checksum error loading defaults comes up. press delete to enter setup or f1 to continue. when I continue the windows logo comes on then the computer shuts down. If I turn it back on it wont boot up nothing comes on the screen. I have to reset the cmos jumper to get it to that point again. I have tried changing the cmos battery but didn't HELP. I rechecked all CONNECTIONS etc. What should I try NEXT.Was the replacement CMOS battery new ? ?
Try another one...

If you enter setup and rstore factory defaults and press F10 to "save changes and EXIT" does it hold the changes ? ?
Is the date and time correct ?Tried antother battery , its good it was tested. The settings hold when saved.Did you try removing and re-seating the RAM ? ?yes tried that and no change
Flakey PSU then would be my next guess.This may help you find what's causing CMOS error http://www.datarecoverytools.co.uk/2009/07/15/how-to-solve-cmos-checksum-error-defaults-loaded/Interesting site...mentions everything i suggested.I tried a different psu one I know is good, and also updated BIOS but no change yet. I am going to check out that web site now.Now the computer keeps rebooting in a continuous loop when the logo comes up it reboots and so on each time.Where is this 2nd PSU from ?
Is the wattage the same or greater than what was in there ?

When replacing the MBoard was thermal paste applied and all MBoard standoffs used ?Quote from: Dwayne Austin on November 27, 2011, 12:12:34 PM

f1 to continue. when I continue the windows logo comes on then the computer shuts down. If I turn it back on it wont boot up nothing comes on the screen.

I did try to reinstall windows before the BIOS update but that didn't work , I tried again after the update now all is good.

Good day
Surprisingly this WEEK,whenever i tried to on my laptop it will on but giving me sound totototototo as if one key pressed down on the keyboard.It won't allow the systm to boot normally,i've removed the keyboard and clean it with spirit and dried it,clean d keybrd port but it does dsame thing.what can i do?From Our Archives...Quote from: Ademil4vic on September 22, 2011, 03:02:30 AM

Good day
Surprisingly this week,whenever i tried to on my laptop it will on but giving me sound totototototo as if one key pressed down on the keyboard.It won't allow the systm to boot normally,i've removed the keyboard and clean it with spirit and dried it,clean d keybrd port but it does dsame thing.what can i do?

From Our Archives...

Wow..Its been a long time i visited this place! I forgot all the help i was given in the past with viruses and stuff!!

Anyways, ive got a question about an AMD processor.

I got myself an HP laptop 2 years back with the following specs :

AMD Turion x2 Dual core Mobile RM-72 2.10GHz, 64 of course.

4 Gig RAM

Installed OS is 32 bit Win 7.

and an ATI gcard (never really researched into which one EXACTLY as i dont do gaming on laptops!)



My issue and questions are as follows,


The fan was WAAY too loud even after some months of purchasing it. I however tried to keep it on hard surfaces so air could go through the vent. There are no holes or vents underneath the laptop, just on the side (pretty stupid if you ask me).

I did PUT up with it for some time but when the laptop became 1 and some months year old, i took it apart and replaced the grease on the processor which was running REALLLY hot. Somewhere between 70-85 Celsius. I checked it just before shutting down and disassembling it and it showed 92 Celsius!!! !!!

It seemed to have worked as i was getting temperatures between 55-60 when i reassembled it .

Then it happened again after approx a month and i did the same thing. Disassembled, cleaned the vents and replaced the grease.

Which worked again.

Now im getting the same thing. Fan runs on full almost all the time and temperatures are realllly high.

Especially when im running firefox with 20+ tabs or photoshop, FRANKLY anything that takes up memory and processing power.


Will a 64 bit Operating system change anything? Will it make the laptop any faster due to the fact that it will recognize all 4 of my ram instead of 2.75?

Is there anything else i can do to keep the processor from running so high temperatures and hence the fan running all the time?

Any help is grreatly appreciated!


Thank you!



Changing the OS unfortunately won't help.
When you take the laptop apart, are the vents or heatsink fins clogged up and dusty? It may just be attracting a lot of dirt, some machines do.
If not, it sounds almost like some sort of contact issue. What I theorise may be happening is that when you reseat the cooler etc, it's all good, making good contact. After a while, maybe due to THERMAL expansion/contraction, the heatsink begins to pull a little AWAY from the chip, making bad contact and causing this. As I said - just a theory.Thanks for taking the time Calum.

The vents are always dusty and when i leave it closed for too long they also get clogged.

Your theory might very well be the matter/reason. I thought of that myself before.

When i opened the laptop the third time i applied grease the previous one which was months old wasnt dried out but was in liquid form even more than it was when i applied it.

If this is the reason what would you advise me to do?

Thanks for the input !What kind of "grease" are you using?A cheap thermal paste i got from a computer store. Cant really remember the brand but it was relatively cheap thus mustve had less amount of silver in it than others. Does it make a significant difference?Quote from: Sander on June 28, 2010, 05:45:07 PM

...Does it make a significant difference?

Dell Dimension 8400, Pentium 3, 80 GB HD.
My grandson was trying to be helpful and unfortunately plugged the vaccum in the wrong outlet, blew the power, including the computer (even though it has surge protection). On reboot, BSOD. Tried shutting it down again and BSOD again. It says to disable AV (I can't even get to a place where i can do that), disk defraggers (NONE are set to auto defrag), backup utilities (i have a WD external drive which i believe was doing auto backups), check harddisk config for updated drivers (can't do that), then run CHKDSK /F (can't do that either).

Message was STOP 0x00000024 (0x00190203, 0x82f8E0D8, 0xC0000102, 0x00000000)

i tried booting normal windows, last known configuration, safe mode w/command prompt, and just safe mode but all end up back at the BSOD.

I'm thinking he really fried something but I could use any suggestions you might have. I don't have access to any other computers at home so any help you can give me, point me in a right direction, will be helpful. You've helped me countless times, and i look forward to your answers.

Thanks in advanceHow to install and use the Recovery Console in Windows XP
See "Command Actions", try chkdsk c: /rThanks for the feedback, I'll see what i can do.Well the good news is the Reocvery Console was installed on my computer, the bad news is, even after having it start the recovery console, it appears to start, then goes back to BSOD.

The codes i saw this TIME 0x00000024 (0x0000063 (i think, my paper faded and i can't read it completely), 0x8205D820, 0xc0000102,
and 0x00000000.

Not sure if this means anything.

To top it all off, my CD-ROM drive won't open anymore either. I've tried all the tricks but it appears to be hung up on something, so short of opening it up and taking it out and trying to put it back, i'm not sure that'll work anymore.

Boy when it goes, it really goes.

Any more ideas i'm willing to listen.

Thanks.
Most optical drives have a small pinhole on the front outer part of the drive that an unbent paper clip can be inserted into and that will open the drawer. Is it POSSIBLE a disc is jammed in the drive? truenorthyeah i tried the pinhole trick, no luck. There might be a disc in there, but i don't know for sure, it's been so long since i used it for anything, though maybe the wife used it to play a game or something. I hope you can get your computer working. You mentioned you had a surge protector but didn't mention what kind, but a lot of people buy a $19.95 device labeled a surge protector, but it's not much more good than a common plug strip. With out going into a lot boring details, a good surge protector will have a lot of details about response time, capacity, etc. The best surge protectors are usually in name brand UPS units, which cost more than a plug strip labeled surge protector, but the extra money is well worth it, and the entry level UPS units are not really that much money compared to what you have invested in your computer.

Whether you do or not get your computer working it's something you need to give serious consideration in the future. A tripped circuit breaker shouldn't blow out your computer.Just to eliminate the optical drive having a disc still in it. Disconnect the drive from the computer (cables only you don't need to remove it) and see if any change occurs. Are all the fans running? have you tried removing the CMOS battery for a few minutes and reinserting it? Have you done anything re the RAM sticks?Have you examined the motherboard for leaking or damaged capacitors? truenorthQuote from: Computer_Commando on November 25, 2011, 04:44:48 PM

try chkdsk c: /r

kimsland, 1st i suggest that you read reply #4 and then tell us how the O/P can accomplish this "You can run Check Disk from any Windows CD...

yeah i tried the pinhole trick, no luck. There might be a disc in there, but i don't know for sure, it's been so long since i used it for anything, though maybe the wife used it to play a game or something.

I'm thinking he really fried something but I could use any suggestions you might have. I don't have access to any other computers at home so any help you can give me, point me in a right direction, will be helpful. You've helped me countless times, and i look forward to your answers.

Quote from: patio on September 22, 2011, 01:24:13 PM

I give up...

That in case you didn't recognise it was Humor...no embellishment was required.

It's Just after, thank you. I should know, I'm an expert on the subject, since I saw it on Stargate ATLANTIS.

Which episode? Curitiba needed.

And it of course has nothing to do with BIOS...

i have spent literally HOURS combing the web trying to find these things

i have a crosshair v formula MOTHERBOARD, which has 8 fan plugins, 4 of which have optional pins for heat sensors, which in turn allow the motherboard to control said fans that the sensors are attached to.

WHERE CAN I FIND THESE SENSORS!?!?!?!?!?!

they plug onto the board via pins just like the l.e.d.s of a case plug onto.

please provide a link to where i can BUY them if possible.

please help, and thanks!You should be able to adjust the fans in the BIOS.
I hope you mean "RPM sensor," which allows your computer to detect your fan RPM. I really can't find any info on a "heat sensor..."


http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic95593.html?1316747951
Something like this?the HEADERS are for connecting thermosistors, or other temperature items.

For example, this. In that case, it's for measuring the temperature of water in a water-cooled system. there are others as well, that measure air temperature. I've no idea where to find those though. Usually they are included with the motherboard.Your manual should provide you on locating the mobo thermal sensors plus the 3 accessories plugs.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/ASUS-Crosshair-V-Formula-Motherboard/1319

It does not work. It is the world tour one. I plug it in, and then it says "Oh NOES! We can't recognize this device!" so i click on the LITTLE usb box that the BUBBLE is coming out of. So it goes to this box that says ""USB root hub. No ATTATCHED device and unrecognized device."" so i click on the unrecognized device. Then it shows a new box on top of the last that has the General, Drivers, and Details tabs. There is nothing i can do. PLEASE HELP I JUST WANT TO USE THIS MIC.

[regaining SPACE - attachment deleted by admin]Are you plugging it into the usb ports on the back of your PC or those on the front panel? Try plugging it into the back.If this is GH World tour played on a gaming console(Wii, Xbox), check for available ports to connect and activate the controller within the console.

Hi I am lopoking for a cheap tablet too buy. Does anyone know if the kindle fire is any gpod, or is there a better cheaper one about? I will party around £200. Thanks!
I have not seen a Kindle in use but I have seen a BARNES and Noble NOOK Color in use and I was favorably impressed with its features. I imagine the Kindle is very similar to the NOOK. This article may be helpful: http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33198_7-57319054-286/kindle-fire-vs-nook-tablet/It depends what you want to use it for. The Kindle fire is good if you are LOOKING for an e-reader or SOMETHING really basic. If you are looking for something as far as web browsing, games, documents, or any kind of business use, i'd suggest EITHER saving for something a little nicer like a Samsung Galaxy, Mororola Xoom, or an ipad. If you're really in a budget, then go for a netbook by Acer.I've got the Kindle fire and enjoy it, its a very basic tablet and ok e-reader (still prefer the original kindle for reading for hours). But as mentioned above really depends on what you want to do with the tablet. If you want to just surf the web, play some games from Android, etc. for the $200 price point hard to beat the Fire. ESPECIALLY if you're an Amazon Prime member.I just realised kindle fire is not out here in the UK yet. Does anyone know if I can tether wifi the Xoom tablet to the Samsung galaxy s 2mobile phone?
Here is a video of how to tether the Xoom to a Droid X via Bluetooth(I'd assume that the steps for the Galaxy S2 are relatively similar as both run Android):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=htZ6uoPYtqk

I am trying to FIX my mom's old laptop. Her hard drive crashed and we ordered a new hard drive for it. I have installed into the computer. But when I try to start the computer the Dell screen POPS up but then it beeps and reads "

internal hard disk drive not found

Internal HDD HARD error!

Strick the F1 key to continue, F2 to run the setup utility

when i hit F1 it says no bootable devices -- strick F1 to retry boot, F2 for setup utility
F2 takes me to the setup utility menu but when i look through it under device info the primary hard drive is listed as none.

WHAT AM I MISSING!!!Try reseating the drive. and how would i go about that?Take it out. Put it back in again. Make sure your connectors are firmly seated.i've taken it out and put it back in several times, and nothing has changed. I can't decide if its another bad hard drive or if there is a step i'm missing in formatting it or something.i tried running a diagnostic and it showed up as a fail on the short test on the hard drive
I'm guessing the drive is bad. It happens SOMETIMES. They will be dead right out of the box.

Do you have another computer that you can try the drive in to confirm that it's faulty?not that im willing to test it out on....its a 8 yr old laptop so its not really up to speed anyway. would it just generally not RECOGNIZE it if it was a bad hard drive?So are you saying it doesn't recognise in the bios? If it doesn't then you are not going to be able to format it. what was wrong with the last hard drive that it didn't work?Can you get a USB external enclosure for the new hard drive and plug it into another computer to test? It possibly could be the hard drive port on the laptop which is malfunctioning...Quote from: whiteh90 on December 05, 2011, 08:23:15 PM

F2 takes me to the setup utility menu but when i look through it under device info the primary hard drive is listed as none.

i tried running a diagnostic and it showed up as a fail on the short test on the hard drive

Hey. I am having video playback problems on My Acer Aspire 7741z-4433 Laptop. Here are some pictures below to show what I am TALKING about. This only happens when I'm trying to watch certain videos. not all the time. I am on Windows 7 operating system



How are you accessing the videos? DVD/online/? What type of internet CONNECTION and speed are you getting if the videos are from online?Is this a recent phenomenon with these videos or has it always been so?truenorthVideo CHIP is failing...was this thing dropped recently ? ?I noticed that the cursor is not affected by the rest of the mangled video... so its more likely to be a corrupt video FILE issue...I don't see a cursor in either pic...
It looks like an issue with the keyframing in the video to me. Especially if you can cause this by seeking through the video.Quote from: truenorth on September 19, 2011, 08:23:14 AM

How are you accessing the videos? DVD/online/? What type of internet connection and speed are you getting if the videos are from online?Is this a recent phenomenon with these videos or has it always been so?truenorth

I have used the new Samsung 320GB portable Hard disk over a month. Hard disk have four NTFS partitions which is partitioned by me from the single FAT32 partition.

Frequently while accessing a hard disk partition, its corrupted automatically. Hard disk repair tools can't help to recover the partition files. So, I format that partition to get access. All files are gone after the format.

Can I prevent this corruption?
Did you buyn it new? If so, contact the vendor and ask for repair or replacement. You could use chkdsk to check for partition table errors.
http://vlaurie.com/computers2/Articles/chkdsk.htm


You could also use http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/Testdisk to perform a scan of your portable HDD to check for corrupted sectors.That's new one.

chkdsk takes huge time to process over the 80 GB partition. It shows me the error like ....
"Segment 210 is Unreadable" for every segment.

I just cancel it after waiting ~ 1 Hour for 15% to complete. The data is not a matter to recover. I have an another backup.

Please assist me to choose the correct file system (Windows or Linux file system) for the portable hard disk. I need the stable file system without any data loss (Mainly for backup).



Well, NTFS supports volumes larger than 32GB-which is the limit for FAT32. I would stick with NTFS.Thanks.

Earlier I prefer NTFS. But the transfer speed is < 500kbps and there is complete data corruption over the partition.

Also I have some NTFS partitions on my internal HDD but its speed is > 15MBps EVEN that partition is 85 % full with out any problem or corruption for past three years.

Is NTFS worth for External HDD?Since 5 years ago there is no valid reason to not use NTFS as your file system...on any HDD.Quote from: CBSk on September 21, 2011, 10:49:51 AM

chkdsk takes huge time to process over the 80 GB partition. It shows me the error like ....
"Segment 210 is Unreadable" for every segment.

I just cancel it after waiting ~ 1 Hour for 15% to complete.

contact the vendor and ask for repair or replacement.

Since 5 years ago there is no valid reason to not use NTFS as your file system...on any HDD.

I have an e-machine desktop that started out with vista but I upgraded to 7. I was on-line and my computer shut itself down and now you press the power button and you hear the computer start up but NOTHING SHOW up on the screen and the power button on the front of the computer does not light up at all. Is there anyone out there that can help me with this issue. Thank youEmachine desktop model? Open the side case(power cord unplugged), now plug on power source first. Do you see a steady green light from the mobo? Press power button and inspect for Fans spinning activity and hard drive indication usually by the led light found at the front of the tower. Post more information from there. What online ACTIVITIES were you in during the sudden shutdown?the model number is W5243. The fan comes on and the lights for the cdroms come on but that is it. The screen says no signal. the power light on the front does not come on at all.Notice any hard drive activity?There are usually two led lights in front. One is for the power and the other is for the hard drive(flickering/blinking). Quote

What online activities were you in during the sudden shutdown?

I thought my keyboard had quit working but I got a new one and it won't work EITHER . It reinstalled the drivers when I plugged it in and when I check on the properties it says it is working properly . The lights weren't on at first but my son pushed a couple of buttons , one of them scroll lock and the lights came on . But to type ,it won't type ANYTHING . I am using the on-screen keyboard right now. I have ran Adaware, Malware remover . I don't know what else to try . Also when this first started and I was using the on-screen keyboard ,whatever I typed was on the screen backward.

Thank you
AmyI was just trying something and if I hold the keys down they will eventually type ....looked on settings and I cant find where to MAKE it work quicker .Repeat rate.../ delay rate.It didn't change it. I still have to hold it down for about 2 seconds. Is there another setting for keyboards?There could be something in the BIOS.Keyboards (espeically today's keyboards) are UNIVERSAL as far as you can PLUG any keyboard in and it should work like a keyboard should. Now, it is possible you did get two bad keyboards, but not likely. I would take it out and try another port and see if any change. If not, I would try to reset the bios to "optimal defaults" as a starting point - see if that resets the keyboard to normal use. Restarting the machine may also cure this. I can't imagine they made a function in your OS or on the keyboard that would deliberately cause this lag feature to kick in. Perhaps your keyboard port is bad? Have you tried a USB and a PS/2 keyboard?It is actually likely...
I had 3 brand new HDD's out of the box 2 weeks ago that were all shot.
I could go into the mathematical statistical analysis of the odds on this happening however i have a Lasagna in the oven right now.Is this a wireless keyboard? If so, you may have some issue with your wireless receiver and/or mouse.

What brand and model is it? Do you have the manufacturer's software for it installed or are you letting Windows handle it? I've switched it to another usb port .I tried this keyboard on my other computer so it does work .I will check the bios and see if it's the problem .I just can't imagine how this happened ...If you had a static discharge on the device it may have fried that particular USB port.It was the setting in "Ease of access center" in Control panel. You click on " make the keyboard easier to use" then uncheck "turn on filter keys" then click on apply and ok.
It took 5 different ways of wording this in google searches to find a solution..whew.


Thank you all for taking time to help!

I took the motherboard out of my XPS 1710 to recheck the soldering of the power socket. After putting the computer back together, including reconnecting the coin battery, the screen shows the message: "Configuration message incorrect; run setup PROGRAM" (or words to that effect) I have tried to turn the unit on while holding f1, f2, f3, esc, del, f10, f12 while and also while not holding the function key (lower row) with the above mentioned function keys; no result. Please help.

WendellQuote from: aa4wp on December 04, 2011, 04:27:24 PM

I took the motherboard out of my xps 1710 to recheck the soldering of the power socket. After putting the computer back together, including reconnecting the coin battery. ...

I took the motherboard out of my xps 1710 to recheck the soldering of the power socket.

Hi everyone,

I have been having this problem for a while now, and can't seem to figure out what the problem is. When I turn on my computer, I hear a high pitch frequency or feedback maybe. Not sure how to describe it. When I put my ear to the computer it sounds like it is coming from the CPU or the CPU fan. ALSO when it starts up the display is all messed up and glitchy looking. There is a photo of it ATTACHED here, but it doesn't always look like that, it varies greatly. If I reset my computer three times after the first menu comes up, it fixes itself and comes up with a message that ASKS me to reset the CPU frequency. But I have reset it several times, it is at Default setting right now. My options when this menus comes up is Default or Last Known Good settings. Both do the same thing, since I have never messed with the CPU frequency. It's been at default since I've built this computer. Also after it finally starts up right, it runs fine, nothing is amiss, no noise or odd display problems.

Below are my specs:

Windows Vista 32-bit OS
Gigabyte Motherboard NVDAACPI
AMD Athlon 7750 Dual-Core Processor
4GB RAM
NVIDIA G-Force 9800 GT 512MB Video Card
298GB Hard Disk
Hanns-G 1920x1200 Monitor

Hope someone can help me. Would be MUCH appreciated.

[regaining SPACE - attachment deleted by admin]How old is it? Did you replace the CMOS battery?It's about 3 years old, and no I haven't replaced the battery.Replace the battery.The settings get scrambled if the battery is dead.

Not sure if I should post here or on the Internet forum but I was on Firefox and suddenly all my windows closed and I got a few error messages. I closed them and tried again and it happened again. Then I noticed that firefox and a couple other things were missing from my desktop. Went downstairs for a bit and came back and everything was deleted off the desktop and some random folders in C:\ etc. Also all the stuff in the Start menu was cleared and who KNOWS what else.

Sorry, I can't screenshot cause can't access MS Paint... but I did System Fix and Repair PC and it gave me this:

Disk drive C:\ is unreadable Crit FAILED

C:\System32\drivers is damaged. Warn Fixed
System files are damaged. System is unstable. Warn Fixed
Drive C initializing error Warn Fixed

Hard drive rotational speed decreased by 20% Crit FAILED
Damaged hard drive clusters detected. Private data is at risk. Crit FAILED
Hard drive rotational speed exceeds system limits and may cause... Crit FAILED
Hard drive space less than technical limits Crit FAILED
RAM memory speed decreased significantly and may cause a system... Crit FAILED

RAM Memory temperature is 83C. Warn Fixed

GPU RAM temperature is critically high. Warn FAILED
Hard drive does not correspond to system requests. Crit FAILED

The problem may cause errors while loading... Warn Fixed

Boot sector of the hard drive is damaged. Crit FAILED

Resolved: 5 Failed: 9



And just now in the background I got that error message popping up again saying:
Failed to save all the components for the file \\System32\\0000.... The file is corrupted or unreadable.

It just popped up again while I was typing that. There are about 40-50 of those windows.

Any advice?I just realized it deleted like all my photos, music, videos, documents, and a lot of stuff I needed. If there is a way to get this back by doing a System Restore or something like that any advice would be appreciated.

Also getting this message now:

"Hard drive clusters are partly damaged. Segment load failure."

Another odd THING definitely worth noting is that even though it appears all my files on the desktop were deleted. I created a folder called Photos and it SAID "There is already a folder by that name on the desktop would you care to merge the two?" Even though it doesn't appear meaning that it should exist.You might want to try Piriform Recuva. It works quite well to recover missing data.It looks like your HDD is about to throw the towel in. So, before it stops suddenly and forever, I would do this: Fit the HDD in another PC as a slave, and use the program SUGGESTED by Quantos.

Ariel


Really? Because it's still working right now. Will do.Quote from: Helepo on December 07, 2011, 12:44:11 PM

Really? Because it's still working right now. Will do.

I previously had an open box motherboard as part of a build to be used as a fileserver and was only able to get a display when I used a GPU (ONBOARD display didn't work). When I also found that the LAN PORT was not working I concluded that the motherboard was at fault and returned and replaced it (with a different board). Now, I am having the same lack of display, but UNFORTUNATELY no longer have the GPU to test.

Any ideas on if there could be an alternate cause for the lack of display?

Thanks,
EvanThe immediate suspect is your monitor/monitor cable.Well I've tried with two monitors, and both had the same issue of working with the gpu installed but not the onboard graphics...If you plugged the GPU in then your motherboard might have automatically disabled the onboard video. It should automatically revert to the onboard video, though.
You'll have to get hold of a GPU to get into your BIOS, from your description of your situation. Once you do, you can SET onboard video to enable:

Well the CURRENT board is a new out of box board so I don't see how that could have happened unless that's the default setting...I'll see what I can do as far as getting a gpu.I think the usage of "GPU" in this discussion is misleading. It's being used to mean an add-on/expansion card for the graphics display. "In a personal computer, a GPU can be present on a video card, or it can be on the motherboard."Thanks for the helpful clarification, soybean. So the appropriate term is clearly "graphics card." to save time, I'll type "GFX card."K, so I've gotten a graphics card and installed it, but now when I connect it to the (working) monitor I'm still not getting any image.

I'm really getting confused now, the old motherboard would work with a graphics card but not with the integrated display, and now the new board isn't working either. Is it just bad luck with the boards or could it be some kind of weird power supply issue?

Quote from: Transfusion on September 20, 2011, 02:32:57 AM

Not so cold, is it?

I'm not a big fan of air conditioning...

Think i'll run CPUiD and do a comparison...only problem is Photobucket is really tickin me off now...can't grab the linx for my pics....any alternatives you use ? ?

HWInfo provides the same exact Temp readings...

24C equals 75.2F, which is a fairly normal room temperature. How is that possible? Do you normally keep a room temperature down below 70F?

P.S. does anyone know of a shuttle style case that will accommodate a micro-ATX mobo? My "Apple TV" is starting to look really ghetto, especially with the lack of a front panel.

The prices are, frankly, wayy too expensive to even consider buying.... I was thinking of something around $20 or so.

My Inspiron D530 stopped working over the weekend and the tech I took it to stated that the motherboard went BAD. I'm trying to figure out my options. Buy a new CPU and have my data transferred, but then I'd also have to reload my software? Buy a new CPU that is compatible with the D530's hard drive and swap them out. Order a new motherboard? The tech is recommending having a clone built to the tune of $400. What feed back do you suggest?You just have to get a replacement motherboard from vendors such as Gigabyte, MSI, Asus, etc. and you will have a fully functioning computer. A quick google search shows that these are your specs: Intel Celeron 450, 500GB HDD, 2GB RAM.


That is an LGA 775 socket CPU.
LGA 775 MOTHERBOARDS:
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/list.aspx?s=42&jid=3&p=2&v=7
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/#/?sk=Socket%20775%20(Intel%20Core%202)
The G45 Chipset should suffice for everyday use.

CPUs are not related to hard drives-your HDD just plugs into the motherboard via SATA or IDE.
You can even upgrade your PC to the Intel Core 2 Duo CPU with a new motherboard. The highest CPU you can get is the Core 2 Extreme.

You don't have to build a clone of that PC "to the tune of $400"-that sounds pretty expensive for a Celeron PC without discrete graphics. You can build the AMD PC in my specs for LESS than $313.Quote

The tech is recommending having a clone built to the tune of $400.

You just have to get a replacement motherboard from vendors such as Gigabyte, MSI, Asus, etc. and you will have a fully functioning computer. A quick google search shows that these are your specs: Intel Celeron 450, 500GB HDD, 2GB RAM.


That is an LGA 775 socket CPU.
LGA 775 Motherboards:
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/list.aspx?s=42&jid=3&p=2&v=7
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/#/?sk=Socket%20775%20(Intel%20Core%202)
The G45 Chipset should suffice for everyday use.

CPUs are not related to hard drives-your HDD just plugs into the motherboard via SATA or IDE.
You can even upgrade your PC to the Intel Core 2 Duo CPU with a new motherboard. The highest CPU you can get is the Core 2 Extreme.

You don't have to build an entirely new computer "to the tune of $400"-that sounds pretty expensive for a Celeron PC without discrete graphics. You can build the AMD PC in my specs for less than $313.

No offense but you're doing her a disservice suggesting a new MBoard...even with a CPU upgrade when that cabbage could be well spent on a new machine...

so i just bought a new graphics card, the GeForce 8400 GS. The goal was to run 2 monitors on it, and that worked fine.
I then installed a program CALLED actual multiple monitors to extend the taskbar to both monitors, which also worked fine.
However when i turned my computer off last night, i was not able to get a signal from either of the monitors. If i hook one monitor into the standard motherboard slot, it will function (albeit with weird settings; my taskbar is vertically aligned on the left).
I do not think its an issue with the power supply, as my computer isnt THAT old (~2008), and this graphics card isnt high end at all; as well it didnt come with/wasnt supposed to require a power supply, its only 300 watts.
I also believe i have all the correct drivers installed, as i PUT them on straight from the disk, and seeing as AMM was functioning correctly at one point, im not really sure what could be causing it.
Input much appreciated!I would try removing all power to the PC and remove and re-seat the vid card...
These were the factory drivers that shipped with the card...correct ? ?ok ill give that a try. yup they are factory + their own update (the installation disc prompted for it)

EDIT: that did it i guess. i vacuumed out the whole tower to be safe. It appears to be working now.. ill post up again if i get the same issue when i shut down tonight. thanksFor future reference i wouldn't use a vacuum inside a PC case...
They generate huge amounts of static electricity...enough to take out pricey components in the process.Glad you got it fixed.

As Patio said, don't use a vacuum as they do generate a lot of static. Instead, get a can of compressed air and BLOW it out. You can find cans of it most places that have a good selection of computer accessories or order it online. It's relatively cheap and much safer than using a vacuum.

It was off and DIDNT TURN on WITHOUT the FAN.

As the title says I'm getting the plugged in but not charging problem, and it's sitting on 0%. Right now replacing parts is the last resort. I've tried CLEANING several parts both the adapter and the battery, I've uninstalled then reinstalled the battery driver, and fidgeting with the adapter. Nothing has helped. As for a little background knowledge for the laptop i got this second hand from my best friend who thought it was broken (just needed to clean the inch thick dust clogging the HEAT sink) and she got it brand new in June 2008. So I'm well aware that parts go bad I'm just making sure. It's a Dell Inspiron 1525 running Vista. If you can think of anything else i can do let me know. If you suggest i got into the laptop to fix this please give me step by step instructions I'm not all that familiar with hardware as much as i am software.Please purchase a new battery, that one is faulty and beyond fixing.
By the way, drivers are not required to help fix a faulty battery, the actual laptop can be totally off, and the battery should still charge if the power adapter is plugged in and on at the wall.I F had my Vista laptop (Fujitsu Siemens - Amilo Li1818) not charging earlier this year then indicator said plugged in not charging so I Googled for this and made 2 threads on Fujitsu forums I had one reply a couple of months later. I have a car charger for the laptop and that wouldn't show it charging.

He told me its a common problem with Vista. Open Device Manager and click on battery you should have Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery listed, remove its and refresh hardware so it finds it again. I did this and it started charging again.

A couple of months later it stopped charging again it was the original battery which was 5 years old so I bought a new one and its charging again.

It could be your battery but remove Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery and find it again it won't hurt to try that.This must be the only forum out of 50 that I use that you can't edit your previous post, silly situation.

Reply from my Fujitsu Siemens forum.

AMILO Li1818 not chargingWhen you've been around a bit more that feature will be enabled...
As per usual it was being abused so a few yo-yo's make it harder for all others.

patio.
Moderator.You are experiencing a problem which is common for many notebook users. The solution is simple. You just have to uninstall the battery driver and and remove the battery. Then, let your computer find for hardware changes. The steps to do this is well EXPLAINED in this site.

http://www.techyv.com/questions/toshiba-battery-plugged-not-charging

Hope this helps you!
Cheers!Quote from: kosala1212 on December 03, 2011, 07:50:08 PM

You are experiencing a problem which is common for many notebook users. The solution is simple. You just have to uninstall the battery driver and and remove the battery. Then, let your computer find for hardware changes. The steps to do this is well explained in this site.

http://www.techyv.com/questions/toshiba-battery-plugged-not-charging