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I drove 3 days to move to a new home and decided not to set up my computer until I settle in. 2-3 months later I decided to set up my computer and when EVERYTHING is plugged in I booted it up. Nothing was GETTING activated. My HDMI monitor has no signal and my USB mouse and keyboard that usually lights up does not light up when connected. All the fans inside my fans are running perfectly FINE including my video card, processors and my case fans.. I built this PC 3-4 years ago and I TRIED replacing BIOS battery CR2032... Very common when a PC is moved...remove all power...then remove and re-seat RAM sticks GPU and any other addon cards.
Power BACK up you should be good to go.What is a GPU a Proccessor or the video card?GPU = Video Card (if you have one to remove) ... Some systems have integrated video and so there is no video card to remove. Additionally some systems have APU's which have the CPU and GPU combined so an APU is a CPU and Video Card all in one. If you dont have a video card to remove them you skip this. Dont remove an APU.

Full title  is:
Security agencies red flag Microsoft’s White Space Technology for rural internet

White Space in this context means radio or television spectrum that is not used in some places.

The idea of bring Internet to everyone is very attractive. In some places there never will be a full house of TV channels to choose. Some rural areas might have one TV repeater in the VHF band. The old technology was to have channels 2 tru 13 available. Normally this would let  ch. 2 4 5 7 9 11 13  in on town and the others, 3 6 8 10 12,  in the next town.Yeah, but that  never happens in areas with sparse population.  (The article below may have some technical flaws, but don't stop reading because  of that.)

So the idea of using these for Internet was started. Microsoft and others supported it. OK, so what has happened?

This report is critical of the plan because of security worry.
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/tech/internet/security-agencies-red-flag-microsofts-white-space-technology-for-rural-internet/articleshow/60947121.cms

Quote

MUMBAI: Microsoft’s attempts to roll out White Space Technology for providing rural internet connectivity seems to have run in to rough weather with the country’s security agencies raising a red flag over extensive use of the technology, Maharashtra government officials told ET.

Television networks have unused broadcasting frequencies between channels which is kept idle for buffering purposes. This space can be used to deliver internet services and is called the White Space ....

Read more at:
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/articleshow/60947121.cms?utm_source=contentofinterest&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=cppst

Every time I log in to my AOL email ACCOUNT a small window appears - "Will you allow AOL to access your location" with options: allow location access/ don't allow.  I click "don't" but with no difference NEXT time.  The irritation prompts me to ask if I can get rid of this window, and, anyway, why would AOL want to know my location - what's in it for them?  Any comments appreciated.Why do thy want your location?
In improves their demographic database. The choices, preferences and vocabulary a person has might relate to his location.
It helps them advertise. The can offer ADVERTISERS the ability to tailor advertisements to suit people in a given area.  For example, people living in Alaska may not be interested in portable ice makers,  but customers in Arizona would.

If I were AOL and I knew you live in Arizona, I would give you this link:

..And tell you where the nearest Walmart is in Arizona.
Depending on your location.

Might that be a good answer your question?   
Quote from: silkie on October 03, 2017, 05:23:12 AM

why would AOL want to know my location - what's in it for them?

While trying to install Agent Ransack, there was a problem.
So I made a screenshot and cropped it. And looking over the file sizes, I thought I should explain why I think the GIF is better than JPG.

I have three copies of the same image.
Here ate the FIRST two as attainments.
Whenever you attach a file, it goes into the CH Web space and uses some of the CH bandwidth.
Notice the JPG has best color and the GIF  The best text readability.
The JPG could  be more clear if you reduce compression. That will increase the size and the bandwidth. For best text and modest bandwidth, use GIF and not JPG.

JPG image 48 KB
GIF  image 35 KB
PNG image 25 KB
The PNG image was made smaller and the color set reduced. The result was hard to read. So it is not shown here.

Either attachment may be  be opened in a new tab to see it full size.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I just use jpgs hosted on Imgbox. No usage of forum webspace. The text in those two images you posted is equally readable to me.
I use PNG for all screenshot images. jpeg IMPARTS artifacts due to the lossy compression which tends to have issues with text and other DETAILS, and I just don't like it even if the text is still fairly readable. GIF uses an older compression scheme, so tends to be larger than just saving a 256-color PNG.

Here's a picture saved for all three. This is a Photoshop Window with the thing I was fiddling with at the time open- though it might actually be affecting the results in some way here.

GIF  - 377K

Text is perfectly clear. The image contents itself are pretty good too considering- the palette likely leaned heavily towards blues.

PNG - 335K

Looks identical to the GIF file- but is smaller due to a better compression algorithm.

JPEG - 269K

I had to reduce this to the 50% quality in order to compete size-wise with the other two. The text is still readable, so it still does the job here, but it does contain JPEG artifacts around the text and other on-screen elements. I personally don't think it is worth the trade-off; Mind, thjis is also why I don't use MP3 for the most part, preferring FLAC instead, so probably a personal preference thing ALTOGETHER.

Found this video below on youtube when looking to see how much gold could be recovered from scrap CPU's. The process this person went through in the video to me isnt worth all the work and cost of materials, or at least in small recovery amounts it costs more to get the gold out of them than the gold is worth. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME as for the process they show can be deadly.

Of the .3 grams of gold they claim to recover out of every Pentium Pro CPU that comes out to 0.0105822 Ounces and at current gold bullion value thats $13.79 (USD) at $1303.30 per ounce and at the highest purity of .999 fine gold. They recovered 1.5 grams of gold which is $68.95 (USD) in this video if its .999 fine. The material and time costs still to me aren't worth it as well as the toxic gas and toxic waste to get rid of in the end.

Once again... Do not try this at home, but this was rather interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9cfzN7fvBUIt's not even a huge gain, those CPUs are often sold for about $40-$50 on places like eBay to collector types.nods I was thinking they are still likely worth more to a collector than their weight in gold.

Its not very often that you can take something junk or old for lower than cost and make more out of it.

For a short while I was buying up buffalo nickels on ebay that were otherwise junk nickels for jewelry and got the idea to see if I could find some key dates using an acid on them to etch away lesser dense nickel from the area of the date to get a date to show. In the $30 purchase of 100 no date buffalo nickels there was a 1913-S Type 2 that I was able to sell as an acid date to someone looking to complete their set inexpensively for a genuine filler nickel for $75 USD.

In G-4  ( Good 4 ) condition its currently listed at $265 USD according to PCGS and 1,209,000 were struck, but the majority of them destroyed by heavy wear, so I thought the one day why not buy up some nickels cheaply that have dates worn off and use this nic-a-date acid on them at $5 for the bottle and see what dates appear.


 I also found some other semi-key dates from Denver and San Francisco and was able to sell these at more than my cost in time and materials but at a bargain below the Good - 4 condition price tags to people and made a nice profit, however the sources on ebay that I was buying up PILES of no-date with mint mark buffalo nickels dried up and I was only interested in the piles that were sold with mint marks as for the D = Denver and S = San Francisco coins for the buffalo nickels people want and Philadelphia ( = no mint mark below the FIVE CENTS ) doesn't have enough of a rarity to them to make any money.

 I sold the Philadelphia no-date nickels below other SELLERS price tags, at about 3 cents each below my cost to move the junk back out because I didn't want to hold onto junk common no date nickels. The margin made on the keys and semi-keys padded the 3 cent loss on each one. I made around $250 on this with about 2 hours of labor and just the right place at the right time to buy up mint marked no-date nickels on the cheap to reveal the dates and there were people desperate enough for these harder to get nickels to pay a premium for them for them to either complete their collection on the cheap or some collectors have a sweet tooth to specific keys and semi-keys to collect in numbers and any grade as long as the price is reasonable they will buy them all up to collect in hoard quantities for keys and semi-keys.



Too bad. never thought old CPU's would be worth anything.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/28911037/Gold-Content-List-in-CPU-Chips
The amount of gold varies a lot. from about .1 to .5 g for Cyrix , IBM  and Intel units made almost twenty years ago.

The  AMD-K5 PR133 now goes for $15 and up on eBay. So if you have one, you might get more money for less effort by selling it. But just wait. Maybe someday the prices of gold with raise.

Or maybe not.
Why Gold Is Collapsing  (NASDAG 2016)am486DX-120 chips are around 40 bucks or so, probably about the same as any recoverable gold.

And you also have to consider the cost of materials to extract the gold, too, I suppose.

Around the late 1970s/early 1980s I knew a guy who could not get his inherited family farm to make money. The land was marginal for crops and cattle was a loss maker for many farmers at that time. He was the kind of guy who fixed up farm machinery and made stuff out of parts. A wizard in fact. Interested in electronics & IT and the very new 8-bit "microcomputers", Exidy Sorcerer, Nascom, etc. Used to build and sell them. He had some trucks, so he started bidding for contracts to haul away redundant mainframes being replaced by minis. A whole mainframe installation was a lot of equipment cabinets - CPU, tape drives, disk drives, etc. When he got them back to his farm he would take out the boards and put them in a stone breaker, a big rotating steel drum with heavy iron balls. What came out was like metal/plastic corn flakes and powder. This was processed using chemicals - strong acids and a cyanide compound. Eventually precipitated gold was placed in a crucible in an induction furnace and melted to make ingots. This whole business was done on the very edge (or way over the edge) of legality. The farm was not licensed for industrial use, the guys he got to drive the trucks and operate and fix the machinery were paid in cash, the storage of hazardous chemicals was not done in a legal way or registered. The farm was on the FLOOD plain of a river and flooded about every 30 years. He told me he was worried about the acid and cyanide mixing in a flood and making a gas cloud that could kill everyone on the farm and in the nearby village. The induction furnace needed three-phase power but the electricity company wanted an awful lot of money to provide it, so he joined a used truck engine to an alternator, via a modified tractor gearbox, and ran it that way. The money he got for hauling away the computers was cancelled out by the cost of getting rid of the non-valuable scrap, and the wages he paid his unofficial workers. The gold made him money, because of the amount he got, and because he cut every cost to the bone. As a farmer he could buy untaxed diesel fuel for running all of the machinery. If he done everything by the book, he would have lost money.
WOW cool story Salmon and pretty scary that that guy could have made a poison gas cloud that killed people off if a flood caused everything to mix.

I worked back in 1994 for a electronics company that was run by 2 brothers. One of which was Electronics Investor who would hire engineers and technicians to copy ( possibly stolen ) electronics designs and sell them as his own product, and the other brother a Licensed Lawyer who wasn't allowed to practice in Hawaii ever again after something went way wrong with his lawyer skills or lack there of in that state. The place had poor ventilation and all sorts of chemicals for the PCB manufacturing process and stuff was just flushed down toilets etc for waste liquids etc. Also lack of PPE ( Personal Protection Equipment ) like safety glasses etc. Somehow he was able to keep the state from shutting him down for about 20 years and then it caught up with him to which him and his brother were sort of kicked out of manufacturing in New Hampshire and so they then went to Vermont where they ran their business as shady as before but more cautiously until the lawyer brother passed away and the lone brother was facing legal problems and no longer had the low cost shady lawyer that would do anything to keep him out of hot water or jail etc to which it finally shut down. I still to this day remember the haze and smell and taste of the wave solder machine running because their ventilation system consisted of a $12 box fan laying on its backside on a hole in ceiling that lead up to the attic of the cabin that was 20ft by 60 ft in size and so the flux fumes would blow up into the attic but there was no fan up there blowing it to the outside of the building. So the stench/cloud would come back down to the workers on the ground floor which was a cement slab. Friend who referred me to that job woudl climb into the fluorine PCB bath tank and have to scrub it to which he was likely exposed to all sorts of nasty stuff. I stayed away from the Fluorine bath which was like an ice chest that the boards would be dipped in fluorine. I worked there for 4 months until pay checks were bouncing two WEEKS in a row and when I complained about why paychecks are bouncing the owner stated that if you want to get paid be the first to the bank on payday as for the early bird gets the worm and the slow one gets the rotten egg when the money in their runs out. There is some money in there but I have to pay myself, engineers, sales department, and technicians and you all are at the bottom of the ladder and priority. Nice Business Owner Right!

 So I demanded him to pay me in cash for what he owed me which was around $350 for the week after taxes for a 40 hour week at the time. He paid me in cash with a smile and said see you on Monday. I said sure. And never went back after paid in full.  When he had to move from New Hampshire to Vermont he tried to head hunt me from my job at Allen Bradley / Rockwell Automation. I said I was happy with the $13.50 an hour in 1998 as an Electronics Technician and not interested in working for him. Additionally I had signed a non-compete agreement with Allen-Bradley/ Rockwell Automation so I couldnt work for any other electronics jobs that could conflict with them. I didnt want to lose my job that was a great job over some extra money for a slum-boss. He even offered to pay in cash because of his past history of playing games with peoples paychecks and I said NO THANK YOU! Its amazing the guy never went to jail.

I also learned through this experience how banks handle employers who give you bad checks. Its not between the bank and the employer writing bad checks. Its between you and the employer, and by the way that check that we paid you for... you have to pay the bank back for the fact that the check is bad and bounced because the funds weren't there. The bank wont take a loss and the bank wont legally go after the employer who plays games with insufficient funds, however he got a $25 fee for each bounced check which to him was nothing because he had deep pockets and he enjoyed being an idiot as the most appropriate thing to call him here. So I had paid my rent with the paycheck that bounced and the bank was now demanding me to pay them or I would face legal action against me. I was like THIS IS INSANE and the system is messed up to go after me and not them for writing the bad checks. The system should go after them for the money + the bounce fee.  Paid the bank back the money they gave me as for with the $350 I got from them + the $350 I got from him in cash, I had to give the $350 that I collected from him to the bank to cover the $350 they gave me. What a headache that was! 

Only good thing that became of all that was that job gave me the Prior Working Experience Status in electronics manufacturing which most employers want 3 to 5 years experience in the field and Allen-Bradley / Rockwell when they asked why I was there for only 4 months at Allied Electronics and I shared with them the pay checks bouncing as the reason for leaving and the local manager who knew Allied Electronics issues from hearing it through grape vine and others who use to work there that now worked at Ab/Rockwell saw that I had the skill to do the job and the problem wasnt in me it was with Allied, so the 3 to 5 year rule was waived whereas anyone off the street without prior work experience with electronics might not land a job as easily. *Allied Electronics by the way is not the large Allied Electronics that most may know with the large catalog. This Allied Electronics that I worked for was a small business that somehow had the right to use that name. Didnt want anyone thinking the larger company was the one mentioned here.

I don't know, That is what I am asking.
Wikipedia says:
Quote

Authorize.Net is a United States-based payment gateway service provider allowing merchants to accept credit card and electronic check payments through their website and over an Internet Protocol (IP) connection.

Authorize.Net has the most customers of any payment processor,[22] and has been described as one of the more senior players in the payment processing INDUSTRY, retaining a "decent portion" of the industry's market share.[20]

NOTE: The PCI Data Security Standard requires that merchants discontinue using early TLS (1.0/1.1) for securing their sites, no later than June 30, 2018. In support of this, Authorize.Net is discontinuing support for TLS 1.0/1.1 on February 28, 2018. Please CONTACT your solution provider and web hosting company to confirm that your solution and server fully support TLS 1.2 before or by February 28, 2018. Thank you

Your user agent supports TLS 1.2, which is recommended protocol version at the moment.

i have been having a clear out,from my emails .folders like drafts/ archives/ sent mail. and i WENT through them all and deleted the contents .
some were weeks old.so i thought it would be ok. then i thought i would try my other folders, like   gas/eon/ amazon.when i looked in them they are all empty. so i thought recycle bin and restore them. the recycle bin is empty  any idea where the files have gone. and how do i get them back.what email SOFTWARE are you using?
something like Outlook or Thunderbird?
or online via a browser like Gmail or Hotmail?

but if you deleted stuff, generally they go to the Deleted Items folders of whatever software you are using (not the Recycle Bin of the PC).
if the Deleted Items folder is also empty, you will be needing those backups you regularly do of your PC to restore them from.

[SARCASM] you know, those backups you only did yesterday! [/sarcasm]    thanks Mark. i dont know what i did i am using Sky emails .and i only checked my folders on that page. but when i found they had gone i
immediately went to the recycle bin, but it also was completely empty .have i clicked something that said delete all.??.
it is a mystery.i have a  backup disc so i can maybe get somethings back i will try that.

will let you know.Contact Sky and ask if they are saved on the server end...
Rang sky unfortunately they are not saved.

 Thanks anyway it was worth a try. Quote from: ivanoe on October 19, 2017, 02:14:21 AM

Rang sky unfortunately they are not saved.

 Thanks anyway it was worth a try.

I tried but can not FIND a way to enter a USER NAME on flickr and have it BRING up there photos any ideas?You can't...UNLESS they give you permission.

I have a TOPIC that I am down with and mark solved. But I am STILL getting REPLIES to it. I was wondering if there was a WAY to lock it so the replies will stopDone...

patio.

This is from dictation.

This is a request for help from experts who understand the issues involving aluminum pressure contact conductivity. This is about applications where two pieces of aluminum are brought together under pressure to make electrical contact. There are no screws nuts or bolts involved, just pressure.
Here's the application.
I have electrical panel outside my house that was here years ago. We never replaced the panel because of economic concerns. The cost of labor for REPLACING the electrical panel was outside of our budgetary expectations. So we decided to go ahead and use the existing panel.
Long story short, the panel lasted for several years until it finally failed when the main circuit breaker became damaged. Once I hired private electrician to replace the damaged main breaker using the best of his skills and knowledge. The new circuit breaker was very expensive, because it is a model that is no longer in current PRODUCTION and the part was from replacement stocks. In other words, they jack the price up very high because it's a old replacement part. So we went for that because at the time the idea of replacing the whole panel did not seem to be attractive. (A poor decision.)
Well after about may be seven years or so the replacement circuit breaker also failed. Almost the same as the old old. again. Except only one leg failed.
The men in my friends and Associates think that the problem is I just need to have a higher amperage circuit breaker. That is not true. It was never a question of there being too much current going through the circuit breaker. The issue was the circuit breaker would overheat. It would overheat basically for three reasons. First of all there was quite a bit of current flowing through it, but not beyond the limit of what the circuit breaker could handle. Second thing was that the temperatures outside in the summertime rose to be very, very high. This circuit breaker box is outdoors and does not have any kind of protection from the weather, so it got just as hot as the surrounding air and with the other problems it became very hot. Here's the third problem. The third problem is that the bus-bars are aluminum and so are  the contacts on the circuit breaker.
These contacts are pressure contacts and are not screwdriver adjustable contacts. Those of you that understand the problem with pressure contacts and aluminum conductors can understand the problem. The upper bus-bar in the  electrical panel had been pitted and the electrician had placed the circuit breaker over the same area that had been pitted. Although he did his best to try to avoid placing it over the pit area, apparently where he placed it the bus-bar had a tendency to not make good contact. I did not actually see him burnish or treat the bus-bar, so I don't know what he did. Anyway, it went  for several years, so I can't find fault with what he did. Likely water may have entered the box during the winter time and washed away some of the protective material that is used on aluminum bus-bars.
But here's my problem, I understand the basic ideas, but people around me don't seem to understand what I'm talking about and they have their own ideas about how to solve the problem. In fact one of my relatives thought the best idea was to remove all the stuff that was on the bus-bar altogether,  he erroneously thinking that the compound used on the bus-bar was simply some type of petroleum grease and would interfere with conductivity. He of course was wrong, but he's older than me and one of my relatives, so what can I say?
Anyway I need to find a reference somewhere that explicitly states you absolutely have to use the antioxidant material to cover the bus-bars before you put the circuit breaker in place. I don't know where to find that explicit statement. Perhaps some of you who are licensed electricians know the chapter and verse for it says you have to do that with aluminum bus bars in a panel that uses only pressure to connect aluminum to aluminum.
There are no screws or nuts that will help keep the circuit breaker firmly attached to the bus-bars. It's only by pressure from the contact of the circuit breaker itself. This is an old-style circuit breaker often called a type Q and it was made by Sylvania or some other COMPANY like that. It is definitely different from the modern day Square D panels that are commonly used in new installations.
I could guess that this panel probably is more than 30 years old. I have no idea when it was first installed. Anyway, most of the two bus-bars looks good and appears to be good, just the one area where the circuit breaker blew out  is badly pitted.
So I'm looking for some explicit information about what to do when you have a bus-bar that is pitted in just one area. I need to find something that is written in explicit language so other people here will not keep trying to interfere with my attempt to repair the electrical panel box. I have to depend on somebody else to actually do the work due to my inability to work in a tight space with poor visibility. So it helps if I have some written instructions that I can share with other people.
Yes, this is not directly related to my computer. But before I can use my computer and neglect to repair the electrical system. Right now I have it working on a temporary situation where at least half of the circuit breaker still working. Yes, one half of the circuit breaker still works. The other half is blown away and it looks like somebody shot at the gun.

Thank you for listening to my problems. I appreciate any positive are marks you have to make.
As you will make some negative remarks, I don't blame you. 

End of dictation.
Google for:

NEC 110.12(c) Integrity of Electrical Equipment and Connections.

(c) Integrity of Electrical Equipment and Connections. Internal parts of electrical equipment, including busbars,
wiring terminals, insulators, and other surfaces, shall not be damaged or contaminated by foreign materials
such as paint, plaster, cleaners, abrasives, or corrosive residues. There shall be no damaged parts that may
adversely affect safe operation or mechanical strength of the equipment such as parts that are broken; bent; cut; or
deteriorated by corrosion, chemical action, or overheating.


Sounds like you were given poor advice. In general, from what I have read, code requires that a pitted area of an aluminium (British spelling) bus bar is not used again for siting a breaker, and that area of the bus bar is henceforth unusable. Many professionals RECOMMEND replacing the panel, on the grounds that even if another portion of the bar is used, a "handyman" could come along and put a breaker on the pitted area. Recent bus bars are electro plated with tin and cleaning the surface with wire wool would make the bus bar non code compliantThank you for responding.
Now I have some printed material to share.

Half of my house does not have electric, some family members are asking when will I get it fixed. Unfortunately   it is very hard for me to fix the problem because of the location of the panel sand the way it was installed years ago.  I know what to do, I have to CONVINCE my Nephew that he can do it with my supervision.

And bad timing. Now is not the right time to work with the local utility company, Here in this area the utility company, PG&E, is responding to a number of residents who have damaged to their houses due to the rash of wildfires in this area.

I do appreciate you response.
Information on YouTube is contradictory.
The panel in question is no longer made here , but has never by declared unsafe by any authority. A similar design by another company was declared unfit and had to be recalled. But that is not the case of this make and model. It is still in use and can be maintained. Replacement parts are available from third-party makers.

Thanks for reference. I will use that. 

Hi there guys. So, I really WANTED to learn how to Graphic DESIGN I made a lot of research on YouTube, and I did the specific thing I need to learn. Besides, I need to KNOW how can I make logos. So, what kind of courses I can take to SUPPORT my need to become a graphic designer?

THANKS.

Hey guys,
I format my micro SD CARD, but whenever i insert it into my phone, all the stuff I just erased is recovered automatically and my memory becomes full of useless old data. What's the problem with my micro SD? Can it be a problem with my phone also?
thanksInteresting ... How about performing a Format of the Micro SD instead of erasing and instead of the quick option for format uncheck quick erase if you see that option and see if this fixes it.You could also...
 - TRY another SD micro chip
 - erase it USING utilities on the phone.

The smart phones and not legally REQUIRED to be compatible with anything other them selves. That is, with regard to file storage and erasure. The phone might have its own way of removing files by some method that works for the phone.

Some REFERENCES say the the Android file system is more like Linux and not like  MS-DOS. That would explain why something that looks right in Windows might not work in the Android system.
Reference:
https://www.quora.com/What-file-system-does-Android-use-by-default
The above suggest smartphones might use

YAFFS

Which means yet another flash file system.

How do I tell what operating system I am using?Right click My Computer and select Properties. It should all be there.On Windows 10 it's called "This PC".
I can't find either of those.Do you have a Start button?
another method...


hold down the Windows logo key on the keyboard and hit R
this brings up the Run box, in the Open field type winver and hit Enter.Maybe it's not Windows...There is no start button. There is a bar at the top and a bar on the left side for app shortcuts. I know it is not Apple. Does Windows 10 have the start button?That describes Ubuntu Linux. (And possibly a few other flavours of Linux)

I suppose that is your answer, then. Ubuntu Linux.

If you want more information There should be gear-like ICON in the upper right. You can click that and choose "About this Computer..." in the menu. Quote from: Kamryn on November 01, 2017, 02:59:11 PM

There is no start button. There is a bar at the top and a bar on the left side for app shortcuts. I know it is not Apple. Does Windows 10 have the start button?

Linux does not need an antivirus.

What about liquid solder?
Imagine this scenario. You have a delicate piece of electronic equipment that has a broken trace or a component that is broken away from the circuit board. You are not in your workstation and you have a limited number of tools with you. Would you attempt to try to USE your soldering iron in your toolkit, or would you attempt to use a liquid solder product to connect a wire, trace or component back in place without the need for heat?

Think about it. If you don't have the right soldering iron and if you're not in the correct environment, trying to solder something can be operated and possibly you could damage the delicate circuit board by applying too much heat.
So here's my question. Do if you have any experience with using a liquid solder product to make an emergency repair when you cannot take something back to your workbench?

Would such an emergency repair be just as good as what you would do with the right soldering iron and the right equipment? Is use of liquid solder may be the best choice in some cases?

I have absolutely no experience with liquid solder, but I came across a problem recently that has me thinking about it. I tried brazing onto a metal component that NEEDED repair and it was rather large and I could not get enough heat to make the brazing ROD STICK to the component. Possibly I do not have the right rod or flux, but I suspect that it was because I could not put enough heat to the device without actually DAMAGING something. So that's why I didn't try any harder to raise the item.
I said braise, because nowadays the distinction between soldering and brazing becomes a little blurred. We no longer use led when we solder something and we have to use a higher temperature so it almost becomes the same thing as brazing. But maybe you could explain that to me, all I know how to do is to use lead-based solder, but that is no longer politically correct.
How can I get acrid information about the use of liquid solder?

Just sharing a purchase I made. For $46.98 a low power consumption build motherboard with a laptop processor for desktop, that just needs a Case, RAM, Power Supply, And a Drive with OS ) but able to handle most of my games on steam.

  I bought 2 of these 3 weeks ago for low power consumption builds. One of these replaced my wifes CORE 2 Quad Q6600 2.4Ghz and games she plays and streaming media no problems at all. With her build I added a video card thinking she would need a video card upgrade not having trust in an APU for gaming.

   However with the build for myself I am running strictly on the APU alone without an added video card and Windows 10 Home 64-bit and it really impressed me that its able to handle most of my games on steam. Even Blades of Time which has lots of complicated detailed graphics and very active FPS / Hack n Slash fight scenes has no lag at all.

    I saw that the price that went back to $63.99 and so I decided not to buy a 3rd board.

    But looking today I saw that it dropped once again to the price that I paid prior of $44.99 with $1.99 SHIPPING and so I bought a 3rd board.

    My daughter has been using my wifes computer lots ever since the new computer build because of the fast performance and her game runs and looks way better with DirectX 11.  My wife recently has been complaining that our daughter has been using her computer all the time now and why isnt she using her own. It was found out that our daughter decided to play her Animal Jam game that she use to be happy with on a 8 year old computer on my wifes computer and the game plays fast and looks better and so she is glued to a system that runs the game better and now she knows that she was lagging out on the other she doesnt want to go back to slow gameplay. So I am going to gut her case of the old motherboard and install this in place of it and fortunately I dont have to buy anything else for it since I have some extra 2GB DDR3 1333 Mhz sticks of RAM to give her 4GB RAM and will give her Windows 10 64-bit to try out and see if she liked that, and then will license that at a cost later.

The 2.7Ghz Turbo mode of this APU runs at 2.7Ghz when heavy gaming and I have seen temperatures cap out at 62C in a 68F room. It runs a little warm, but 62C is not a worry for me. I start to worry when I see 70C+, and when idle its 37C and underclocked with the cool n quiet that AMD has and 62C is the cap, THATS safe operating temps. It seems to be able to hold 2.7Ghz for extended periods of time and I havent seen any cycling of 1.7 and 2.7Ghz such as 2.7Ghz until it reaches a specific temp and then drops to 1.7Ghz to cool and then back to 2.7Ghz until a temp is reached and then back to 1.7Ghz "thermal throttling for lack of better term", but slightly different than thermal throttling of other CPU/APUs which throttling is a sign of cooling troubles. I expected this build to hold to 1.7Ghz and surge to 2.7Ghz for short bursts to crunch, but it can maintain 2.7Ghz as a CONSTANT for gaming in my testing. Perhaps I just havent reached that magic temperature where it then goes into a thermal throttle cycle which I am pretty sure it would protect itself by doing this vs a melt down of the cores.

Now after all the pros I have to share the concerns for would be buyers of this:

- The APU was originally intended for a Laptop, but it has been mated with a Desktop motherboard and fan speed is a constant speed. The fan spins fast and its quiet running. The only issue with longevity of this build and concern I have is FAN failure of the APU. I myself can fix for a fan failure easily to replace with similar or same fan, but someone who isnt so technically inclined could feel like this is a throw away board when the cooling fan dies someday it could equal a dead computer for them. There is no heatsink swap like traditional desktop boards where you have a choice of cooling methods. Its what you see is what you get and its not if it will fail but when it will fail. I have seen cooling fans last 20 years as well as them die after just a few months. The fact that its a small high RPM fan means that its prone to failure due to wear. (* The good thing however to offset this con is that it has a 3 year warranty and so if a $47 motherboard+APU combo lasts 3 years without any problems you pretty MUCH got your moneys worth out of it )

- It is an ITX board and so there are some limitations to what can be added.

- While you can upgrade to more RAM or choice of 1333Mhz or 1600Mhz DDR3, the APU is soldered to the board and permanent, so no future upgrade path for this board for a better APU, that is unless you have the tools and skills to upgrade to another mobile APU without destroying the board. Most people will toss the board vs go through that much trouble for a board like this.

- It has a PCI Express 2.0 slot for a video card upgrade, but while this may make for better gaming for games that the APU's internal AMD Radeon HD8510G Graphics GPU may struggle with, then the mobile A8-5545m CPU of the APU can act as a bottleneck to videocard performance, so it should be mentioned that this is not a solution for heavy gaming for people thinking that they can just slam a high end GTX gaming card into it and charge through with playing heavy games. The CPU portion of the APU will most likely act as a bottleneck. *Note: I have Witcher 3 in my steam library and will be testing this game out on the APU. I dont expect this game to play on this APU very well given performance I seen with a Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz with Geforce GT 730 2GB Card.

- The AMD Radeon HD8510G Graphics uses shared memory from system RAM 768MB of it So my system with 4GB RAM reports as 3.2GB FREE for the OS. The BIOS doesnt seem to have a feature to adjust the size of the allocation, or its buried in a menu i haven't found yet. The only way to remove the 768MB shared memory RAM allocation for the internal GPU within the APU is to add on a video card to the PCI Express 2.0 slot which disables the internal GPU of the APU freeing up this memory allocation requirement.


BIOSTAR A68N-5545 AMD A8-5545 (Quad core 1.7G, turbo 2.7G) Processor AMD A70M Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU Combo

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138448

Does this sound like something we already heard?
Really,  this is a new instance of law enforcement asking Apple to unlock an iPhone to reveal photos, text and other data related to an investigation.

Here is a link:
https://www.cnet.com/news/apple-served-with-search-warrant-over-sutherland-springs-shooters-phone/

Quote

The Texas Rangers found an iPhone SE near the body of mass shooter Devin Patrick Kelley. Now, they want Apple to hand over his iCloud data.

26 dead doesn't warrant probable cause ? ?...c'mon Geek.

What side are you on BTW ? ?

Apple thinks that giving the code up would ruin their reputation.

I work in a doctor's office and we GET a lot of x-ray disks from different hospitals. We have issues with one hospitals in particular where the disks comes up the error "The app was unable to load a required virtual machine component". I've contacted the hospital but they offered no solutions. I've searched the internet and tried all the possible solutions but to no avail.

Here are some of the things I've tried:
1) Uninstalled all of the possible undated that reportedly fixed the problem for others users; KB3045999, KB3068708, etc.
2) Tried running the app in compatibility mode.
3) Disabled antivirus.
4) Ran the app as an administrator.

OS is Windows 7.

If anyone has a solution that I haven't tried, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!
what is on these x-ray disks?, just pics?
CD's or DVD's?

what file format, and extension of the disk contents?
what is the difference in disk contents between the ones that do work and the ones that don't?

do they auto play or do you manually double click (or something else) to show the contents?Knowing what you and they use would be helpful...

Seen this tons of times with medical apps BTW.The disks contain x-rays and mri images, etc. The images are dicom formatted, commonly used in the medical field and the software that runs the app is called GEARView.

They do run automatically when inserted and I get the same error on both 32 and 64 bit machines. However, occasionally we will get a disk from the same hospital that will work fine, even though they are CREATED by the same people, using the same version of software. I'm told that the disk are created on a Windows 7 PC as well.I had an MRI done on my left knee for partially torn meniscus and got a disc burned afterwards to look at my knee from home computer and ran into the same issue you have.

Windows 7 no MATTER 32 or 64 bit had issues with the "bundled viewer that came on the disc". I Ended up getting a different dicom viewer and everything then worked perfect. I can link the dicom viewer I used when i get home tonight if that will be helpful. It was free for download and worked with no problems but I havent used it in almost a year and FORGOT its name, but its still installed on that system to refer to later tonight if still needed.Yes, please send me the link.

Thank you!DiCom Viewer...Thanks patio, works great!!!Kewl Beans...Yup thats the one that I have Microdicom. Seeing that name sparked my memory of its software name. Its nice and easy to use too. Thanks Patio for helping with this.

The hospitals should be bundling this with the image data. When i contacted the hospital with the problem I was having they told me that if I had an older Windows XP computer with SP2 that the bundled viewer would work on that. I have an old computer that I could have used, but really wanted to open it on my better computer so I DIDNT try XP SP2 like they suggested and instead got the Microdicom.Anytime Dave...

I asked Mom's doctor what was best....

Is there an app that lets you scan a barcode upc that is and BRING up information about that product? I got a barcode app that scans but all it does is PUT the upc number in storage.For what device ? ?upcdatabase.comfor android cell phoneOpen Google Play Store and search for "barcode READER".   Scores of them are available.  I have not TRIED any of them, so I cannot recommend any specific one.

Figured since today is Black Friday here in the USA where droves of PEOPLE shop for all the bargains and even go to the extent of sleeping outside the stores on the sidewalks to be the first through the door of the store to get a chance at saving $100 off of a TV etc that it might be fun to see what people have picked up on Black Friday for themselves or others, as well as those also buying stuff that is recent in which they got an awesome deal to share with everyone.


I will go first with my recent Black Friday / Good Deal Purchases:

( Im not the type of person to be at a store right at the time the door opens to trample over others to save $100, but am the type that normally sleeps in vs shivering in line hoping to get something that the store may or may not have at all stores as marked in flyer. 8 years ago I tried to get a cheapie laptop for $150 on black friday and stood in the cold at the early hours in 20F and when I got in the door and pointed out the laptop in the flyer I was greeted with sorry our store didnt get any of those and about 30% of the people there were there for that half priced laptop as they stopped to listen to the GUYS answer when I questioned the DIRECTION to go to get one in which people were angry and the security dude at best buy pointed out the asterisk that stated not available in all stores and only available in limited quantity so if I store did get them they might only have 1 or 2 of them and by the way sorry no rain checks on items not available today.      )

I bought this stuff the day before thanksgiving and the day of thanksgiving when people werent going crazy busting down the doors and ripping items out of each others hands or carts. I've seen people fight over items before and it makes quite a scene. The woman who followed another and snuck an item out of the other womans cart when the other woman wasnt looking was quite the piece of work.      

- Sega Genesis system with 80 games including many of the best games made for Genesis included which also has a cartridge slot to support play of original Sega Genesis Games for $47.99 at Staples. (( Christmas Present for myself      )) * This is around the price tag that they are going for and I feel I got a good deal on this because of the bargain this is with all those game titles at that price tag. Also it comes with 2 controllers so I can play 2 player games with a friend or family member.

- Bastion (PC) Game for $2.99 normally $14.99 at newegg. I looked at the gameplay on youtube and it looks like an interesting game with a mix of ranged and melee and special attack abilities as well as its not that complicated of a game and rather simplistic and has an interesting linear progression of the dungeon crawler like feeling game that builds itself as you move and see the assembly and disassembly of objects which makes for a neat visual effect and not able to see stuff from a ways back to prepare yourself too early with how to deal with a boss or mob, but also seems like its fun looking at at $2.99 its a bargain to add to my COLLECTION of thousands of games amassed since I first got into video games in the late 1970s. 

- 4.5 Quart Crock Pot for $13.00 at Newegg which I got for my mom for christmas. Normally a $40-50 crock pot

- Watch for myself for $5.00 at CVS which normally is a $14.99 watch as well as one for my daughter also for $5.00 for a savings of around $20.

On start up, I get the MESSAGE "chrome.exe-bad image. I x it and a SECOND shows up with same message. I x it and everything seems to work fine.
In the message, I've noticed "me.dll"
I have noticed though in my email I and unable to OPEN some attachments.

Any HELP WOULD be appreciated.
Thank you!See Here...Thanks, so far it didn't work.
I'm using windows 10. I forgot to mention.

I have an android tablet 5.1 urulu I clicked on on talk back and now
I can't get settings it just talks back. It says to DOUBLE click to activate.
Won't activate. I got back to accesibilities once but activate it.
I can't do anything now. When I clicked on on the talkback another thing came up to
activate,I think their were 5 different things to activate.I don't REMEMBER what they
were. Now when I click on settings I just get the green square and it won't actuate.
I'm in TROUBLE. I NEED help.

This video is on you tube and was sent to Windows insiders.
Have you seen it?

Sets in Windows 10
It is not about math. It is about how you can organize youur projects adn ge Windows to remember what you like to do.  In think. Is that right?

My question is: Will this help me?   
I have a hard time trying to organize anything.   

I don't think anybody can say whether it will "help you".

I think the feature is a bit redundant considering the taskbar itself and Multiple desktops via the Task View. It also SEEMS to be injecting EDGE into OS level FEATURES, which you'd think they'd at least have a few brain cells to avoid nowadays.

The feature seems somewhat redundant considering the existence of the taskbar which is quite literally a TABBED interface paired with Multiple Desktops/Task View. For Browsers and MDI applications it makes sense to have separate documents on separate tabs, but that doesn't really apply to most applications, especially when the feature seems to basically let you put together any number of Applications as "tabs" on one Window. It seems like this feature being useful RELIES specifically on users making use of of Microsoft's Online services; Accounts, Onedrive, Office 365, etc.

it also looks like the feature is probably exclusive to UWP apps.

Ok guys long story....
On Friday me and my husband discoverd ( by accident) that all his gmails we being automatically forwarded to a third party but this third party isn't anyone it's his ex wife!!! My husband is pretty good with computers but has never seen this and obviously never set it up! He turned white and immediately changed the setting. We have had a very disturbing weekend thinking of all the information she's had acsess to. So we have spent a lot of time trying to discover how and WHEN this happened. It turns out Gmail does not have a settings history only log in history so we are unaware to how long this has been going on.
Aside from this our business email ( we have an academy) is LINKED to the email so there is a lot of bank and student information. So google ' forum' couldn't help and so we thought we would try here ...
This isa conflicted relationship and we are stressing anyone a whizz out there?
Basically  email has been tampered with SOMEBODY ( obviously his ex) that all his emails have been forwarded to her email address along with all the academy's emails
So we need to find who and when the setting were changed
A lot of settings NOT where or when someone has logged in to  but we need settings history
HELPdoes your Academy not have an IT department?

Gmail doesn't record when settings are modified, not that the GENERAL public can see anyway.
your Server would have a log of user account LOGINS (who/when/where) that may help you narrow things down.How did the Ex get into the house to set all emails forwarded ? ?

If you have a history of the emails you have a history of what she allegedly has posession of...

As far as knowing dates and such personally i would expect worst case scenario...

PS...not to badger but i woulda noticed if my email app was forwarding a looong time ago.

It's in the header/footer of every email you send.A to-do list for you:
1. Get new e-mails accounts.
2. LEARN more about how e-mail works.
3. Talk to an Attorney.

how can i make 24-second shot clock using D Flip-Flop?
any help please.
 is this a clocked D Flip-Flop?yes. do you have any idea?
pls anyone  there...pls helpone more question, do you want the clock to recycle at 25 or freeze until the reset button is pushed?

*EDIT*
also, you didnt quite specify, do you want the schematics?like the 24-second shot clock in regular game. i can reset it to 24 seconds, and i can pause the clock then resume.

Quote

*EDIT*
also, you didnt quite specify, do you want the schematics?

if you have to use the D flip flop, you said it was clocked, can i assume that it also has a set and a reset feature?

what is the use of set and reset in D-FF?

can i ask if what software are you using to see the output of the circuit?

and i also trying  to get the equations needed to get the right output

i am using 6variables K-mapping.

below is a schematic for a 0-99 continuous, recycling, counter

this setup will recycle at 99.  to get it to recycle at 24

if you need the schematics for the 4 X 7476 flip flops just ask, for they are actually 4 separate flip flops just drawn as one box for simplicity.

Corsair Flash Survivor Stealth Usb Flash Drive New Model Idea:Corsair should make a new model of the Corsair Flash Survivor Stealth Usb Flash drive they should make it way smaller like 4 times smaller here's a photo of how this model would look like:https://imgur.com/a/V6bPD
And it is possible to make the usb 4 times smaller just look at these usb's that exist they are really really small(just an example)https://imgur.com/a/6sDI1Contact Corsair...

They have likely already thought of it though.I have a small USB stick like this one for my one Linux Laptop that runs with no drives other than a bootable USB Flash drive. Similar to this drive linked below but the one I have is Team Group brand and 8GB. Its not the fastest flash drive though. I have normal 1 inch type sticks that perform better so not sure if its because going this small performance was lost in cramming the electronics into a smaller footprint or just that Team Group isn't a top performer. I got this small thumb drive be be able to be permanently mounted in a USB PORT without having to remove it to put back in the laptop bag as well as it wont GET snagged and break the USB 2.0 port on laptop. Once Linux Mint is booted which takes a minute or two web surfing is fine with it etc. Laptop is only a Core 2 Duo anyways so not the fastest out there and performance is dated. Here is an example of the size the USB Stick I have is. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K2PD7558&cm_re=cruzer_fit-_-9SIA12K2PD7558-_-ProductWhile it's likely they might reduce the size of their "Survivor" series over time I don't think it makes sense to introduce another model specifically for both needs.

Looking at their product page they have drives that are designed for specific cases- Extreme performance, ruggedization, Security, and Ultra Compact. It probably doesn't make sense to combine the design intents  together- too "Kitchen SINK" at that point.

The bulk may very well be how that model get's it's ruggedization.

For reference, Their Ultra Compact "Vega" models are already similar in size to the SanDisk Cruzer Fit. (Am I the only one that thinks that name sounds like a Diaper?....)

I have two 128GB SanDisk Cruzer Fit's and they perform well enough. They are not as fast as A more "full size" PNY Flash drive but they are fast enough that I don't recall having to SIT and wait except for very large transfers.

At that size typically they are designed such that the actual circuitry is all "inside" the connector itself. The USB Shell itself and the Case it is plugged into then becomes a heatsink. And they do get hot.

Hi there,

My HITACHI DZ-MV550 camcorder is broken. I have 6 dvds that cannot be recognized at my laptop (Windows 10). I GUESS these DISCS require a FINALIZATION. Can any tool help me to finalize them or extract videos to PLAY?

Thanks a lot.

Nata.

Hello.Is this LAPTOP COMPATIBLE with MX linux OS:LENOVO IdeaPad110s https://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/ideapad-100-series/Ideapad-110S-11IBR/p/88IP10S0803?

What vpns work and are COMPATIBLE on mx LINUX? Will this usb work as a bootable usb with mx linux OS and does it work as a bootable usb? Samsung USB 3.0 Flash Drive FIT 64GB https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/usb-flash-drives/usb-3-0-flash-drive-fit-64gb-muf-64bb-muf-64bb-am .I want the ideapad 110s white model.Where can i get the white model?

I am working on STM32F100 (datasheet:http://www.kynix.com/uploadfiles/pdf8798/STM32F100C4T6B.pdf)with SPI flash W25Q32BV. In my code read DATA function, erase sector function, write enable function working properly but I can't write data on the flash. PLEASE give me solution.

Here you can show my code.

HAL_StatusTypeDef Flash_W25Q32_Page_Write(uint32_t ADDR, uint8_t *data, uint16_t length)
{
  uint8_t TEMP[260]={0x02,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x01,0x02,0x03,0x05,0x06};

  HAL_StatusTypeDef ret = HAL_OK;

  Flash_W25Q32_Erase_Sector();

  HAL_Delay(10);

  Flash_W25Q32_Write_Enable();

  HAL_Delay(10);

  CS_DISABLE;

  HAL_Delay(5);

  ret = HAL_SPI_Transmit(&hspi1,temp,260,200);

  if(ret != HAL_OK)

  {

    Error_Handler(); 
  }

 CS_ENABLE;

 HAL_Delay(5);

  Flash_W25Q32_Write_Disable();

  return HAL_OK;

}

my monitor wouldn't turn on a week ago after a power outage , after a day i plugged it back in and it worked for another 5 days , yesterday i turned it off and removed the plug, now ot does the same thing, when i plug it in the screen goes a bit darker but no SIGN of power even on the power button even tho windows recognises it (makes sound) . I opened it up and LOOKED at the power supply but all SEEMS fine and the capacitors look in great SHAPE (not buffed at all). What can be the problem?No need to double - post...

Topic Closed.

hi, my english bad SORRY.... i have two computers and one of them gets this problem
 
 
 
When I WATCH a video on YOUTUBE, it is not full screen. i use chrome, firefox, opera but all have the same problem. there is the same problem with different videos
 
i'd try, GRAPHIC card uninstall, reinstall
 
chrome delete and again installl
 
computer scan for virus and malware
I showed the error in the picture and
When I watch a video on YouTube, it is not full screen

[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]

As ridiculous as it sounds, my windowed steam game has gone below the screen into no mans land where I can’t see it or possibly interact with it, however today is a special case, usually when this occurs I click on screen personalisation and change the screen type from landscape to portrait and there it’s hanging about, but today it’s gone next to the bedrock. Anyway I can have my gameback and PREVENT this from happening repeatedly. Thankslaptop or desktop?
OS?
does the PC have more than one MONITOR? (or THINKS it does).
right click on some empty desktop SPACE, choose Display settings, click Detect, how MANY displays are found?

Kindle fire and other kindle devices have been around for quite a few years now. Personally I was too cheap to spend the money they originally wanted for them and preferred a computer with a keyboard instead of touchpad. However travelling I had a small Sony movie player and then eventually got a android tablet 2 years ago for $40. Then a few days ago I saw that bestbuy had kindle fire 7 on sale for $29.99 and I knew that kindle fires ran better than the cheapie China tablets and so I figured it was a good time to upgrade on the cheap. So given the price tag of $29.99 I bought 3 of them to keep 2 spares. 

My wife bought a kindle fire when they first came out. Myself I didn't see the immediate need for a tablet and spend that kind of money for just one of them. So I bought 3 of them with 2 as spares because my wife has had 2 of them brick on her after heavy use and 1 of the 2 that bricked she busted the touch pad and I had to replace that so I also know how fragile they can be as well as pain to service. Next one she kills I can just surprise her with a spare that she doesn't know I have that she thinks i paid full price for. 

Typed this all on the kindle fire 7  Congrats...how much is subscription ? ?Eh, Dave, I have a Samsung Tab A 8" tablet that I bought over 2 years ago and the Kindle app works great on it.  And, since I've used the tablet for much more than a Kindle reader, I have a different perspective on this.  I guess, if I was using a tablet mostly to read books via Kindle, I could see your point. 

I'll soon be visiting my son in CA and will just take my smartphone and tablet.  I have a laptop but it's not working right, so I'll leave it home.  I have Microsoft's OneDrive app installed on my tablet and on my phone and can access files stored on OneDrive anywhere I have an internet connection. No subscription cost. I just registered it against my already existing amazon account. Their app store has plenty of free games however I am guessing they operate their software and apps like apple does as for so far it looks like the apps are ones preapproved by them although lots of overlap between googles game store for android and Amazon's fire lineup. I added vlc player to it and able to watch my videos through that. Since I have prime to save on shipping they also have the streaming that comes with prime enabled accounts so I have been watching movies and TV shows through it at no additional cost.

Initially when kindle fires came out they were mostly for reading but this one the kindle fire 7 can do just about what my Emerson brand android $40 tablet can do but faster because its arm processor is more snappy.

I like that it has a microsd slot so I was able to upgrade its storage capacity from 8GB to 72GB with the 64GB that I took from my other tablet.

Some apps want to stay on internal storage vs external storage but I was able to move 2GB off the 8GB internal storage to the external microsd 64GB

There is one game I'd like to add to this kindle fire 7 which is a pyramid solitaire which I play on my other android devices but not sure if there is a way to get google play store on this and then bring it over that way. Going to LOOK into that tonight. 

The specific version of pyramid solitaire I like so much that I installed the andyroid android emulator to my PC and play the game as well as angry BIRDS 2 with friends to beat each others scores.
Try this method to add Google Play to your tablet: https://www.howtogeek.com/232726/how-to-install-the-google-play-store-on-your-amazon-fire-tablet/Does the kindle fire 7 have bluetooth capability?Yes it has blue tooth. But I have my blue tooth shut off because I don't use Bluetooth with any of my stuff.

And I just ran that trick that strollin shared using the method of installing the 4 APK files from google from links provided in the instructions in the order as listed and success.    It stated there was a newer version below the green download and I told it to download the version that was at the green download link vs the confusing 4 options for a newer download below that.

After a reboot of my kindle fire 7, which I did just to bring it up booted clean after install of the software, I am now installing my favorite games from google play store which are free to play, and Pyramid Solitaire Saga by King is running flawless.

Thanks for that link strollin. I was so surprised that it didn't require rooting it to install the Google Play Store and Games. So Awesome!

The shorthand version of what you need to do is you need to go to settings and security and then enable Apps From Unknown Sources which will allow installation of applications that are not from the amazon app store. Then download in order those 4 APK files and install them in that order as listed. Then reboot kindle fire 7, and then go to Google Play Store and everything works. *They claim it should work with all kindle fire devices including kindle fire 8.

Here is the game that for me is a must have for my android devices. It starts off easy and gets more challenging in higher levels. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.king.pyramidsolitairesagaThanks alot Dave...like i needed another addicting time killer... You're welcome for the link.  I think the average Kindle Fire user would be very intimidated if they were asked to download apk files and such so I don't think a lot of them do it.

My first tablet was the original Kindle Fire when it first came out in 2011.Haha Patio at another addicting game...

And nods to strollin that the process being slightly involved while easy for me it might be challenging for someone else. Additionally running it in this mode of allowing unapproved by amazon software on it has its risks. However I trust Google so just going to run that unapproved app and I am low risk with what I do on tablet so. Quote from: patio on December 14, 2017, 05:53:59 PM

Thanks alot Dave...like i needed another addicting time killer...

Have a great ONE....and MANY more...Happy Birthday GEEK.congrats Geek.

What is the name of this character?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Section_sign

Haven't USED that character myself in ages. Last use for me was in Word Perfect over 20 years ago. I went under the Double S name for it but knew it had many names so I shared the wiki on it.

Last seen this character used on a fps deathmatch that I play... its in the game title logo :    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warsow_(video_game)

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Called the 'paragraph sign' in British English.

§

Alt + 21 on the keyboard
I found this drawing but I can not find that symbol on my character MAP under symbols

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]It is not in every font

You can hold down the Alt KEY and type 21 on the keypad, or Alt and 0167

In German law they use this symbol but it must PERTAIN to something like page paragraph or sentence.UK English Windows locale
Windows 10 Character map (Arial font)

MS Word 2013 Insert Symbol Subset: Latin-1 Supplement


Quote from: John1397 on December 10, 2017, 07:25:48 AM

In German law they use this symbol but it must pertain to something like page paragraph or sentence.

What do Asus employers expect or look for in SOMEBODY in order to be hired manufacturing motherboards job or working in Asus team job?

What online certification or degree is necessary to work for Asus? What does the Asus COMPANY look for in a Asus employee education background wise?

Is there a college in jersey that has similar COURSES to this school?

What college in New Jersey has hands on learning courses for lcd SCREEN or  tablet screen repair and cyber security?I suggest talking to a career counselor at your school, I get the feeling you aren't SURE what you want

I've been LOOKING for monitors for my gaming PC build. I've pretty much already decided on ultra wide, but it should help me for future reference and whether or not I might need to upgrade to a GTX 1080 ti (from a 1080) in the future. I'm curious which resolution and refresh rate combination yields a greater load on GPU's for gaming. I did the math, I just want confirmation that this is indeed how GPU bandwidth works and that it works both in theory and practical use. The reason I used 165Hz and not 144Hz is because I narrowed down the best 1440p 144Hz+ IPS G-Sync monitors and they also HAPPEN to be overclockable.

(2560 x 1440p) x 165
= 608,256,000 pixels per second.
912.4MHz bandwidth required.

(3440 x 1440p) x 100
= 495,360,000 pixels per second
743MHz bandwidth required.

Assuming you were to utilize the full refresh rate potential (getting 165 / 100 FPS), standard 1440p requires 22.791% more pixels and bandwidth, or 112 million more pixels per second. In reality, this should work out to have about a 22% difference in frame rate, CORRECT?Bandwidth is measured via throughput, not frequency- It is the frequency multiplied by the bus width multiplied by the data rate. So 2560x1440 at 165Hz would require 2560x1440*3*165 Bytes, or 1,824,768,000 or around 1.6 Gigabytes per second. (The 3 comes from 24 bits per pixel). 3440x1440 at 100Hz would be 1.38GB.

However, none of these calculations make sense unless the graphics card is only being used as a framebuffer, which hasn't been particularly relevant, certainly not for games, for a few decades. The System doesn't send full, rendered images to the GPU to be displayed- it gives the Graphics Card instructions and data regarding geometry, shaders, textures, and so on. The GPU's bandwidth affects how quickly it can receive that information from the system. The speed that it can take that data and create rendered output depends on the speed of the Video memory and the GPU, which get's into far more complicated systems than being able to directly compare frequencies.

It will, of course, take more GPU capability to run 2560x1440 at 165fps than it would to run 3440x1440 at 100fps, but that capability is largely centered around the capabilities of the GPU, not the bandwidth of either system or video memory.

Note I don't mention refresh rate. That's a separate consideration as it largely affects when the graphics card can send another display frame. How it affects FPS is going to depend on whether vsync is being used. If it isn't then the GPU is going to throw frames out as fast as it can either way. If it is on, then typically it will end up locking to the highest even divisor. eg if it can only sustain 100fps at 3440x1440 then your actual framerate will drop to 82.5Hz at 165Hz; if 60fps is the best it can muster, then it will be running at 41.25fps. Vsync means that even if a frame is "ready" then the graphics card has to wait until the next VBlank interval before it sends the new frame Sometimes graphics cards can start rendering the next display frame while they wait which can help prevent stuttering- again, this is a very complicated topic and you cannot simply do a few back-of-the envelope calculations to determine what will be sufficient)

Thanks for your response. That's a lot of info, a lot more than I can UNDERSTAND. I just wanted to make sure that 3440x1440p 100fps would indeed be easier on the GPU than 2560x1440p 165fps.

I'll be using a GTX 1080 and the monitor will be G-Sync. Most likely either the AOC Agon AG352UCG, ASUS ROG Swift PG348Q, or Acer Predator X34.

Does G-Sync lower frame rates in the same way V-Sync does?Take a look at this article

https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/nvidia-g-sync-faqNothing I didn't already know in that article. Nice reply for volunteers willing to help...just an observation.

You already spent time bashing chat...so it kinda makes sense. Just so you know chat runs seperately from the Forums.As the article describes, G-Sync is pretty much intended to prevent lowering framerates the same way V-Sync does, while providing the same benefits of eliminating screen tearing; so to answer your question, it wouldn't cause lower framerates in the same way since it's design specifically to not do so.

of course, you already knew this, so not sure why you asked... 

Hi,

I've assembled my PC and now I'm in the POST screen phase. What steps do I take from here on? The OS is not yet installed, haven't tested RAM, haven't done anything.

The MESSAGE that SHOWS is "REBOOT and select proper boot device.
Or insert boot media in selected boot device and select a key."

I have W10 on a new disc, though I don't have an optical drive on the PC. I do have one on my LAPTOP, but it's vista. Not sure if that will be a problem.You can get the Windows ISO to put onto a USB stick from the MS site
Let me see if I can find a link

  Here https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10  Alright thanks.

Interesting find - Floppy Drive emulator allowing USB Flash to act as Floppy.

Was window shopping online looking to see if there were any bargains and this snagged my attention.

Might pick one of these up out of sheer curiosity. Its been AGES since I needed to use a floppy disk and last time I was able to scrounge up a dusty but still working floppy drive to use an old 1.44MB disk and flash a BIOS for a Pentium 4 computer. Curious if this device would truly bridge USB Flash Drive technology with an older system that only supports Floppy or Hard Drive booting, a system too old to support USB Boot like an older Windows 95 computer that had a single USB 1.0 or 1.1 port that only worked as a USB port after the OS loaded drivers for it but otherwise the BIOS did not support booting through USB like modern and somewhat modern computers manufactured for the last 10 or so years.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA42262U5839

The LED display on it reminds me of an older 386 Everex computer I had many years ago that had a display that would show what drive was being accessed and what sectors were in use on drives. Just found my old computer on google IMAGES. The yellow display on front panel was kind of cool but not sure what other purpose it actually served other than I guess if you wanted data placed on a quicker location on a drive platter, I suppose you might be able to verify its sector/track location and shave off some ms. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_tkm9v4opNG8/TJ0vZ35QWKI/AAAAAAAADuk/1jmMR6LvYlY/w1200-h630-p-k-no-nu/Everex+386+flyer+from+1989.jpg

When i installed Windows 95 to the Everex Step 386 running 8MB RAM it was a very noisy boot of hard drive activity and the yellow matrix display on front panel was flashing fast all the read sector locations etc. I wish I kept that computer but its been gone for about 20 years now. Gave it to a friend because it was just a 386 at the time and they were easy to come by and it wasnt really a classic yet to have collector value with me, but its unusual sector display was cool although lost with its purpose other than to MESMERIZE with the cool geek bling factor.  nice idea, be even cooler if it also emulated the whir-whir sound of floppy read/writes.  Looks interesting but it says it will appear as a 1.44MB floppy.  Seems kind of a waste of a USB drive which generally have much larger capacities.  Could be useful for software that only comes on a floppy and insists on being run from the A: drive. 

Many years ago when I first started uses flash memory, I had a device that looked like a 1.44MB floppy disk that I could put a Smart memory card in (from my camera).  I could then put the floppy disk into the drive and it would act as a giant floppy disk with whatever capacity the Smart Card was.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The emulator works via Floppy disk images. You have to arrange a number of Floppy diskette images on the USB drive in a particular fashion. It gets installed and connected as a Floppy drive, then when installed and running, you can use the buttons to switch the "current" floppy disk that is active. That is what the LED Display is for, it shows the current image number.That makes sense and then doesn't "waste" the capacity of the thumb drive. Ah, the FlashPath. Late 90s. It has an electromagnet coil that sits under the floppy head. The gadget can send/receive to/from the floppy controller via the coil. Needs 2 coin cells. You have to install a driver on the PC before the adapter can be 'seen' and so you need a PC and OS that can run the driver.

Cool Info everyone ... Thanks BC for clarifying its functionality too... Just think of the stack of floppies you cold have on a flash drive. 

There must be a limit though. The LED display doesnt have placeholders for that kind of value to select to, and it would take a while to get there at 1 INCREMENT per button push.From what I've learned/seen of them, There is no effective limit. You can have multiple "sets" of 1000 images, however there is no display of the "active" set. All the features are done by various combinations of holding buttons. I don't know what switching sets is, but navigating WITHIN a "set" is done by pressing one button to increment the ones digit upwards (which wraps around) the other button to increment the ten's digit (which also wraps around) and you increment the hundreds digit by pressing both buttons- so you don't have to go through them one by one.

Apparently it also has a feature whereby you can have the files directly in folders and it will expose a floppy disk with the contents of that folder up to 1.44MB.

(Note: I don't have one but I've seen a few hardware videos that cover it)Cool BC and value going wrapping back to 0 for 1000 if 3 digit display after 999 makes sense.

in my WINDOWS 10 DESKTOP sometimes screen crash and stuck (Please look attached image). the only thing that can do turn off the PC from the button. all DRIVERS are uptodate . installed from driver booster. please help if you know solution. thank you.

[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]

-10F outside and 65 F inside and so our cat decided to lay across the keyboard of my GATEWAY MT6707 keyboard today and when moving cat off the top of laptop it was very warm but she didnt crash the laptop. Oddly the keyboard was no longer responsive to Windows Key or CTRL + ALT + DELETE. I was looking to see if there was a Fn key combination that she mashed somehow to disable the keyboard but cant seem to find a key combination that would completely disable the keyboard.

Rebooting the laptop the keyboard started working again. But wondering if the cat mashed a keyboard disable function that I didnt know about or if she started to cook the keyboard controller by using the laptop as a heated bed.

Looked on google and saw CTRL + ALT + L   but trying that on this laptop has no effect.

Windows Key + L SENDS the laptop into a locked condition as if I locked it from access, but the symptoms of before the reboot was that mouse and everything else worked without lag but no ability to enter anything with keyboard.

I suppose I should have grabbed my USB keyboard to my desktop computer and connected it to see if that wouldnt allow input  from keys as well, but didnt think about that til now.

Just curious if the cat roasted the keyboard controller or somehow mashed the right combination that I dont know the combination of to make a laptop keyboard non responsive? If that combination exists, I'd like to know it, Otherwise I will assume that the cat started to send the laptop into a melt down of internal components and I stopped her from completely killing this poor old Pentium T2060 1.6Ghz Dual-Core laptop.Heres the cat.  Took a quick picture and moved her. Then 30 minutes later she went right back to it and had to move her again.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Have you asked her yet ? ?haha actually I did say what did you do to the keyboard... she was SILENT and left 

Came back to laptop again and she wasnt on it but she must have saw me coming and bolted. This is what I found on the screen.

Now if she could just show me the one that locks out the keyboard functions if it exists. I had Facebook up and walked off and came back to this. I checked my wall to see if she posted on my behalf. She did try to LIKE something though pressing L from the one message. 

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]It sounds like maybe FilterKeys got enabled by holding the Shift key for 8 seconds. It makes it so you have to hold down the key for a good second or so before it registers.Hi BC ... well tried to enable that by holding the left shift then typed into notepad then tried right shift held for about 12 seconds and then typed to notepad and then held both shifts for 12 seconds and still no lock to keyboard.. Decided to hold longer than 8 seconds so that if its a function of the laptop it would trigger and lock out keystrokes.

One detail I forgot to mention is that its running Windows 7 32-bit on 2GB RAM if the OS matters for support of the FilterKeys function.

It shipped initially with Vista and the prior owner upgraded it to Windows 7 32-bit before throwing it away because it no longer powered up. I was given the computer because it was going to cost him $20 to get id of it and I said I can DISPOSE of it for you for free. He gave me it and I troubleshot the issue to a faulty power cord. Chopped the end off of a HP power supply that no longer had a laptop associated with it from another laptop that I scrapped for parts and added this Gateway plug end to the HP power supply with proper polarity same voltage and amp rating and the laptop came to life. Was going to give it back to him but he said I can keep it because he already bought a new laptop. So this laptop replaced my around the home and on the road clunker laptop that if it gets broken or stolen no big loss.

If the cat was sprawled out across my pricey Core i5 laptop I would have freaked out. Its sort of like having a clunker car that works and if it has a cat on it no problem no yelling just move the cat nicely, but with a brand new car I'd be freaking out that the cat is going to damage its paint etc.  Here's a Support article about Filterkeys though it sounds like it was disabled altogether. Looks like the total time would be 16 seconds but you would have heard tones.Thanks for sharing that BC. Never knew of that feature. Wonder if anyone actually use it. I type fast and just use backspace as needed when I mash an incorrect neighboring key or have auto correct assist. I cant imagine having to press a key for a longer duration for it to register with not holding long enough on a key press then not registering, but I suppose someone out the with a keying handicap could use it if they arent annoyed by how slow the words per minute are with the delay in key presses needed.

On a slightly different subject, it makes me wonder why the keyboard layout is as it is as for it makes for some interesting correct spelling typos at times. The best was when someone asked why a person was gone from a raid group in an online game and another person responded with its because the raid leader Licked them..... Licked them?.. ok then... well he meant to type Kicked but L and K are right there and well it was sent to the 25 people in the group making for some laughs and the raid leader likely didnt like that word perfect typo. And upon entering the fight someone had to throw in there "ok NO LICKING keep it clean in there" to the raid leader. There are other combinations that I cant share where 1 letter off from a correct word to another correct word in typo is a bad thing!  Quote

Wonder if anyone actually use it.

Years ago I created some batch files to make backing up and restoring my databases simple. However I learned the hard way today after years of using these batches that my restore batch should have had a verification process before running as for I meant to run a backup and accidentally ran a restore, stomping out all the latest data on my database.

The good thing is that I didnt lose much work little changed between the prior day and today, BUT... I learned that I need to put a fail safe in the batches so that if I click to run the wrong one I have a means of stopping it vs it being an instant overwrite.

The restore batch now prompts warning 3x before running with 3 key presses. Just enough to catch your attention to exit the command shell window so that it doesnt run any further. I also added the color command to it to show in red vs green, whereas before my batches were minimalist and just black command shell background with white text.

The backup batch, I didnt add any prompts to because getting the latest backup isnt a bad thing. However if you want warnings before running a backup you can simply replace the line of:

mysql  -uroot -pYourDatabasePasswordHere< alldatabases.sql

with

mysqldump --all-databases> alldatabases.sql -uroot -pYourDatabasePasswordHere

In the batch that gives you 3 warnings before triggering and save that as a backup batch and chose a color combination that makes sense to warn you that its the backup and not the restore such as replacing red background with white text color cf with color e0 for a shell window that is black text on yellow background, so they dont look the same, you will know that yellow background is backup and red background is restore. You will also want to change the text of what is going on so that it doesnt say overwriting database when its actually backing it up if you chose to do this.

So just sharing these here in case anyone else dabbles with mySQL databases and might find them useful when performing database dumps and restore from dump files.

(Note: The restore batch which prompts 3 times before actually pushing the dump file to database could be cleaned up with a loop and COUNT down before exiting loop and triggering but I just did it quickly copy/pasting in notepad redundant info vs reuse of the same messages.)

Just need to put your password to your mySQL server in place of YourDatabasePasswordHere within the batch scripts below. As well as user name in place of root if your not connecting as root. Passwords within batches can be a security issue, but only if others have access to the batch files. 

Additionally depending on how you have your mySQL database set up, if its configured to invoke mySQL instructions from any path on the system this can run anywhere on your system, however if not configured to invoke mySQL instructions from any path, you would need to then run this in the path that contains mysql.exe and mysqldump.exe, or these 2 files can be copied from your mySQL server such as on my system from c:\mySQL\bin\   to the location of your batch files and work fine communicating with your mySQL database at the default port 3306 without the batches having to be LOCATED at c:\mySQL\bin\

Here is the Backup Batch Script

Code: [SELECT]color a0
echo off
cls
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo.     mySQL BACKUP - All Databases Version 2.0
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo. Backup Started at   %time% on %date%
echo.
echo. Backup Started at   %time% on %date%>>Backuplog.txt
mysqldump --all-databases> alldatabases.sql -uroot -pYourDatabasePasswordHere
echo. Backup completed at %time% on %date%>>Backuplog.txt
echo.
echo. Backup Completed at %time% on %date%
echo.
echo.
echo.
echo.
echo. ------------------------------------------------------>>Backuplog.txt
pause
Here is the Restore with accidental execution protection requiring you to press any key 3 times before it overwrites your database with an older database dump, if one exists.

Code: [Select]color cf
echo off
cls
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo.        mySQL RESTORE - All Databases Version 2.0
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo.    WARNING - This will overwrite the current database
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo. Any Key 3x to continue -or- [x] out of Window to Cancel
echo.
echo.
echo.                           [ 3 ]
echo.
echo.
echo.
pause
cls
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo.        mySQL RESTORE - All Databases Version 2.0
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo.    WARNING - This will overwrite the current database
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo. Any Key 3x to continue -or- [x] out of Window to Cancel
echo.
echo.
echo.                           [ 2 ]
echo.
echo.
echo.
pause
cls
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo.        mySQL RESTORE - All Databases Version 2.0
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo.    WARNING - This will overwrite the current database
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo. Any Key 3x to continue -or- [x] out of Window to Cancel
echo.
echo.
echo.                           [ 1 ]
echo.
echo.
echo.
pause
cls
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo.        mySQL RESTORE - All Databases Version 2.0
echo.
echo. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo.     PLEASE Wait --- Overwriting the current database
echo.
echo. ----------------------------------------------------------
echo.
echo. Restore Started at   %time% on %date%
echo.
echo. Restore Started at %time% on %date%>>RestoreLog.txt
mysql  -uroot -pYourDatabasePasswordHere< alldatabases.sql
echo. Restore completed at %time% on %date%>>RestoreLog.txt
echo.
echo. Restore Completed at %time% on %date%
echo.
echo. ------------------------------------------------------>>RestoreLog.txt
echo.
echo.
echo.
echo.
pause

I was watching a movie on VLC Media Player when suddenly my LAPTOP froze (HP brand). So I couldn't do anything else so I turned off my laptop and turned it on again. Then the laptop was diagnosing and trying to repair my laptop (automatic repair on Windows 10).

My laptop couldn't find any PROBLEMS, so the troubleshooting was not working. I tried to reset my laptop and keeping my files, but there was an issue: "can't reset/renew your pc because of not enough free space on where Windows is INSTALLED. The other option is to renew my pc WITHOUT keeping my files, but I need my personal files.

What should I do? Help please!can you boot the unit into Safe Mode so you can at least free up some space?If the laptop can boot at all, he needs to do a backup of his computer. He will need some kind of excternal storage device to hold his persoanl DATA and settings.

Here is an CH article on Backup.

How to backup your computer

Well, I thought I would watch Saturday Night Live tonight with my buddies.   I haven't seen it in about 20 years or more.

I just have one question  - What the *censored* happened?Last time I tried to watch SNL online it seems as though they have tight control over where you can see it. Youtube didnt have episodes, but some people would post portions or full skits. It would be nice if a steaming network would offer SNL to see the early days up til now and skip over PERIODS of time that they made wrong choices in comedian actor pairing. They do have the latest episodes and sometimes a few older ones to view at https://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live but since CHECKING them out about 6 months ago its limited in whats available.

I use to watch SNL a lot years ago, but when MAD TV actors started coming over after the Chris Farley, Adam Sandler, and Phil Hartman days I lost interest in it and that was a little over 20 years ago I guess. My favorite periods for SNL is the early days with John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, Chevy Chase, and then around 1990 or so until somewhere around 1995ish. They also generally had great guest appearances too and bands. I still remember when they had Faith No More on as the guest artist and the lead singer climbed up into the large ventilation fan in the background and I was like laughing so hard that he brought the SNL background fan into the act and was up there like kicking the blade laying on his back with the band playing then climbed back down.

When Phil Hartman was murdered and Chris Farley died from an OD it took a dive with who they tried to replace them with. Adam Sandler ran off to make movies and i cant blame him for jumping on the money train and leaving SNL behind.

I ended up buying The Best of DVD's for Phil Hartman and Chris Farley, but I WISH they had a collection of their entire SNL career work to see all skits etc vs just whichever ones that some Best Of director pieced together in which some of them on their were teasers of funny things, but they didnt show the full skit which detracts from it all.

For Phil Hartman my most favorite skits are "The Anal_Retentive Chef" and "Colon_Blow Cereal". But there are so many good ones with him in them.

For Chris Farley it was "The Van Down By the RIVER", and him talking and doing the hand motions with the fingers in like a news report type of skit,and many others that I forgot their titles but one of the many was him dressed up as a woman and Adam Sandler was a woman too and it was funny stuff.

The last couple times over the years sampling SNL to see if they have a new good group of actors it was just meh ... But I did like ALEC Baldwin's SNL skits acting as Trump because he Nails it and not going to go into what I could say about the matter because politics is not anything for here, but Im just going to say that he nailed the part and did a very good job acting as Trump in skits. 

I didnt know about the skits until seeing parts on facebook for Alec Baldwin in which I then had to hunt down the full episode or a more complete skit sample from the far reaches of google at times.  Yeah, those were the days, it was actually funny thenGave up on it prolly 6 -7 years ago...

Are these sites prone to ADDING spam/viruses, anything ELSE  I don't need ? I really like to send cards at times to people i don't see often. How can I tell if they're safe to use ? And which ones to avoid ? Thanks !Some are good...some do what you stated...
List the ones you are lookin at...If you're WILLING to pay a subscription fee for usage, I recommend Jacquie Lawson e-cards.  The QUALITY and selection of cards on the website is superb and you'll never have to worry about spam/viruses from them.  See https://www.jacquielawson.com/membership.asp for their membership fee structure. I have used 123Greetings.com for years no problem

I am looking for MONITOR that runs on 12 volt dc and ac I found a Sceptre brand monitor but only runs on 12 volt dc I see tv that come in 15" size that run on both ac / dc I am not sure but is there really any difference between a tv and monitor if you only want to use it on a computer? Seems tv would be better choice cause you could use it as a tv and monitor and a monitor would not make a good tv.Can just get a Inverter that can take 12VDC and make 120VAC. Thats what I use for powering computer stuff of a car battery during a power outage or when out camping with pop up camper and its a rainy day to game etc. 

I have 3 inverters a 100 watt, 700 watt, and a 1000 watt. Depending on what the power needs are I will pair up an inverter with the setup. Also have a 4800 watt generator but the car batteries i have WORK out nice for SILENT power to not upset neighbors to the generator late night running. Had no power once for 3 days and ran the car batteries at night for silent power, and during day used generator to charge them back up and run fridge and oil furnace if needed etc.

Newer flat screen TV's dont draw much power. I have a 32" TV that draws 57 watts. If you want to know what your power consumption is if its not specified on the device the kill-a-watt device works awesome to know how much your draw is as well as you can go around and make a list of whatever you need to power and its power needs by turning it on and writing down its wattage when in use etc, then if you need to run multiple devices you know with very little error as to what your power consumption is, and if you want to go deeper you can calculate how long you can run before the 12VDC Lead Acid battery drains out if fully charged and healthy battery etc.

The last need for an inverter was when no power and I need an alarm clock to wake me, I left the alarm clock powered through inverter as I slept and it was safe and  it woke me at 6AM to surprise still no power but at LEAST I wont be late for work by oversleeping until 9:30am  DaveLembke id right.
Not many TV sets are made for 12 volt DC.  Bu there are many converters to change automobile or marine 12 volt into 120 or240 vac. Most modern TV sets are now very power efficient. Most perform almost as  as good as high performance  monitors.

Hello there! PLEASE i need help!!
I just bought a new ssd samsung internal drive (SAMSUNG SSD 850 EVO 500GB) and after put it in the system-cage (correct)..
I had one problem .. showing up on device manager but not in the computer and in storage management..
I installed the samsung magician (with the cd which is included in the box) and everything was perfect.. (except i can't initialize it and format it to show it on my computer etc)
The fact is that i was trying to figure out the problem with youtube videos and articles but i create second problem too..
I think the second problem CREATED when I went to device manager and i deactive the ssd (i want to restart it or something like this maybe to show it on my computer) and after that when i open the magician the AHCI mode deactivated and sata interface to => (from GREEN color goes red)
i remember it that there are ACTIVATED in the beginnng!
I have windows 10 (64bit) on a desktop pc (HP OMEN X 900-101nv) - (HP OMEN X by HP Desktop PC 900-1XX)

Motherboard HP 82E0
https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/compute/690503

P.S Sorry for my bad english.
With RESPECT - BEST Regards
John S.so the new SSD is being added as a secondary drive in your PC?

what shows up now when you go to Control Panel > Administrative Tasks > Computer Management > Disk Management ?
if you see the SSD listed, I would start from scratch by removing all partitions and reformatting.  (as long as there is no data on the drive which sounds like you haven't gotten that far yet)Shorter route to DM rite clik My Computer...select Manage...then DM...