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So I am a light gamer, who mostly uses a laptop for picture and music storage. Is it necessary to have more than 4g Ram? Does anyone have any recommendations for what to buy? I have only owned an Asus and a couple of HPs. (HPs were rather disappointing quality and durability wise) I need something sturdy.My personal recommendation is to go for 8 GB RAM on a Windows computer. Windows generally uses about 2 GB just for the operating system. That means the difference between 4 GB and 8 GB total RAM, is 2 or 6 GB for your applications, which is a drastic difference. An additional 4 GB RAM is usually not that EXPENSIVE, relative to other types of upgrade.

As for light gaming - gaming on a laptop is rough, unless you buy an expensive one designed specifically for gaming, like an Alienware. However, even a mid-range i5 or i7 should be able to handle low-requirement games with its mobile GPU/APU. Plan to run the games on lowest settings, however.

And, in my experience, gaming drastically decreases the longevity of a laptop. You're really burning the candle at both ends when you play a game on a mobile GPU/APU. The chip might be designed to *be able* to do it, but it's not designed for that type of use, and its lifespan will shorten.

If money is tight, go ahead and buy a laptop that comes with 4GB of RAM but ensure that it can be upgraded to 8GB.  That way you can see if 4GB works for you and, if not, you can choose to upgrade the RAM at a later date when funds are AVAILABLE.  However, the cost difference between 4 and 8 GB of RAM isn't that great so you won't really save that much money buying 4GB.

IMO, 4GB is plenty of RAM for the majority of users.  Adding more RAM does not magically make a system faster.  It all depends on what apps you use and how much RAM those apps need.Hi

4GB of memory when running Windows 10 is a good STARTING point. Memory size is only a small consideration when 4 GB is now the normal.

A couple of things in your post. A sub $400 laptop which is sturdy is unlikely unless you buy refurbished.

"(HPs were rather disappointing quality and durability wise)": Hp makes 100's of different MODELS at any time, for different price points and users. Perhaps you are buying the cheap models designed to last a few years and not designed for how you want use the laptop.

If Refurbished is an option please post where you would like to buy from and I would be happy to make a suggestion.
 

 For most normal use, 4 GB is very good.

My computer RANDOMLY stopped turning on.
I discovered it works when jumped, but not when the cpu cable is plugged into the motherboard.
I tried a different PSU and it didn't change.
Is this my motherboard? CPU? Something else?
Already bought new psu for no reason so I want to be sure before I purchase something else.Hi Stackers,

First what other specs can you give on the computer. A quick way to do this is if you post some pictures of the power supply label and motherboard etc.
Then we will know what advice to give
Thanks I should say this computer has worked for 5 years, so I'm pretty sure somethings just dead, not incompatible.

what i know
-GIGABYTE GTX 770
-asus motherboard
-corsair cs750 power supply
-forget the CPU because it's under a massive heat sinkThanks for the info

I WOULD visually check for anything AROUND the CPU on the motherboard that looks like it has been hot.
With the power disconnected and the cpu power plug disconnected from the motherboard using a multi meter on the ohms range check between the negative and positive pins  of the cpu power socket it should be mega ohms. On a diode test it will be about 400mv or higher if it shows as a short then the motherboard is faulty.

If you don't fell confident doing this, then find a tech to do it.
Wait. The power button has gone bad.
Cut the wire pair that goes to the button and replace it with a push button.
(The only one I found says RESET, but that don't matter.)

So , i had a problem with my COMPUTER where it powered on then shutted down repeatedly , found out it was an overheating issue so i placed thermal paste on the cpu and everything went fine , i used the pc for like 2 hours to clean up hard drives , then the next morning , i tried to power it on and nothing on the screen , the fans spinned and all seemed to work fine but no boot or POST .
searched on the forums and found nothing

sry for my english

hope you can helpFirst step is remove RAM sticks and reseat RAM. If that doesn't fix it then swap out the power supply or insert only 1 RAM stick and see if that fixes the issue. If power supply swap fixes issue then its the power supply, if RAM stick being alone without other sticks makes it boot then its a memory issue and you need to find out which RAM stick is the cause of the troubles.

If power supply swapped and RAM tested and STILL no boot then it could be main board related. You can try resetting the BIOS to see if this fixes it. Additionally checking the CMOS battery that it is 3 Volts and no lesser than 3 Volts. If lesser than 3 volts replace the battery and see if it boots then.

If still no boot then it could be an issue with motherboard. Inspect around the CPU and make sure the thermal paste didn't squeeze out and drip onto surface mount components under CPU socket or around CPU to short signals as most thermal pastes are semi CONDUCTIVE due to aluminum in them etc. *Seen before a person load up the thermal paste and apply heatsink and it spread out under clamping pressure of the heatsink and dripped onto motherboard surface and bridged surface mount components causing signals to cross and failed boot. Just a small drop of thermal paste should have been used and not so much that it pours out the sides of the contacted surface of the CPU and heatsink.

I know that much so that to prevent electrostatic discharge we'll be better off wearing rubber gloves or using ESD bands on our wrists or hooking up our hand to a COMPUTER's metal part while we work on it.
But there's my question. There is a switch that is usually placed on the back of the desktop computer. Switch -/0. If I turn that switch to position 0 is there still a chance to cause electrostatic discharge while I'm working on a computer and happens to me not follow the rules to avoid ESD or doesn't MATTER then when the switch is positioned on 0?

My another question related to this topic. If unfortunately ESD WOULD occur what would have been affected then? What part? Motherboard, PSU, SOMETHING else?
ESD Discharge cant be solved by flipping a switch on the PC.

The destruction if any depends on what was touched at the time of discharge and the path is the shortest path to ground. So like a lightning strike forks out, wherever the discharge happens it will follow traces on the computer and fork out to other components and so it might not necessarily hurt the resistor that you touched but that resistor leg is connected to a chip that has a small junction and the junction burns out from overload. You can also have more than 1 chip blown vs just a single chip as well as a stressed junction that is partially fried to where its not quite right but no completely blown so such as on an amplifier the sound volume is no longer full volume but distorted output or not as loud as it use to be because of the damage.

Always follow proper ESD procedure to protect from damage. The wrist straps are inexpensive and work well when used properly.

Recently I bought DLP 3D GLASSES. Now I wonder how I can watch a 3D movie. I have a BenQ MX522P and an ASUS laptop K53S or a Lenovo ideapad 110-15ACL. On the projector I have 4 options for 3D. I can choose between

auto,
SIDE by side,
frame sequential,
frame packing,

And on my PC I have a side by side 3D Bluray movie. I don't know what I have to do now and it seems there aren't a lot of VIDEOS or manuals on the web.

My intention was to connect the laptop via HDMI and then use the side by side option.But it turns out to be a bit more difficult.

Hi all. My trusty Asus M3A32-MVP has finally started to act up. It recently started locking up requiring hard reset and finally presented me with some beep codes today.

2 short *pause* 4 short. Which SUGGESTS to me that there is a system timer failure causing a parity check error on the RAM.
(I'm not 100% on this though)

My ISSUE is that its an intermittent problem. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine.

Does anyone know of a way for me to confirm this diagnosis? Memtest86 has been running with no errors which does suggest to me a motherboard issue but I could really do with a second opinion before throwing the system.Sometimes I shoot tin the dark and hit something.
Here is a shoot  in the dark. You might have a failing crystal.
To test the crystal is hard  to do with ordinary equipment. It is easier to replace the crystal.
Quartz crystal

It is used wherer ever exact timing is needed. You will have to consult you documentation to find which crystal your mobo uses. I can not even guess. 


There are three different  timing things.
The CPU click
Time of day and system timer.
Graphics display timing.
A system might have up to three separate crystals. Or maybe four. Some sound cards have their own crystal. Replace the CMOS battery...part#Cr2032 available anywhere

Remove all  power when doing so.

As the title says my pc keeps freezing and all programs keep crashing.
I did a full wipe reset of WINDOWS and everything was removed but the problem did not go away.
My build: Windows 10 Pro
Intel CORE I5-4670k CPU 3.40GHz (not overclocked)
16GB of RAM Crucial Ballistix Tactical 2x8GB DIMM 240-pins low profile DDR3 1600mhz PC3-12800 CL8 1.35
1 SSD and 1 HDD
My power supply is: CoolerMaster V550 Semi-Modular
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
I also did a check with seagate Seatools and both my drives say passed for S.M.A.R.T. test and other tests seem to work ok from segate seatools.
I made a couple of screenshots from the errors in Event Viewer. (The text is saying I have faulty hardware!?)
https://imgur.com/a/jyTmr8H
Please let me know if I need to provide more INFO. And thank you so much for your time!Hi

Sorry but your screen SHOTS are not clear enough to read.
Perhaps to speed things up could you run Speccy  https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
After the report is created select file ,  publish SNAPSHOT, and copy the link to the report here for a look see.

I noticed my applications were taking far too long to open, so I pop open TASK manager and Antimalware Service Executable was going ABSOLUTELY berserk--ALMOST max write disk usage to the C:/ drive (50-80 MB/s) and 30-35% of my CPU.

I fixed the issue by ultimately excluding my C:/ drive, the system disc, but that doesn't really answer why it happened and what the . I ran a full scan hoping it might sate its sudden DESIRE to eat up resources, but that didn't stop it. Occasionally it eased down for less than a minute only to ramp up dramatically in its disk usage. Because Microsoft is hellbent on making their system settings and control panel all paired down and App-like simple there's no clear way to figure out what Windows Defender was up to.

Has anyone else run into this problem as of late?

KEEP it clean...we have Members of all ages here.

Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough.... But it seems that mATX boards are starting to become less common than they were a few years ago... Are they dying of? If so, how come? I find it's the perfect size Imo. Most people don't need the 3+ pcie lanes atx has, but may need more options than an mITX would offer, or doesn't want to build a mid/full tower... But still wants the cooling options and room an matx case gives.

Are they just BECOMING a THING of the past? Quote from: JerryTubs on September 03, 2019, 03:00:33 AM

Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough.... But it seems that mATX boards are starting to become less common than they were a few years ago... Are they dying of? If so, how come? I find it's the perfect  tweakbox appvalley https://vlc.onl/size Imo. Most people don't need the 3+ pcie lanes atx has, but may need more options than an mITX would offer, or doesn't want to build a mid/full tower... But still wants the cooling options and room an matx case gives.

Are they just becoming a thing of the past?

Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough.... But it seems that mATX boards are starting to become less common than they were a few years ago... Are they dying of? If so, how come? I find it's the perfect size hosterpak car. Most people don't need the 3+ pcie lanes atx has, but may need more options than an mITX would offer, or doesn't want to build a mid/full tower... But still wants the cooling options and room an matx case gives.

Are they just becoming a thing of the past?

My friend's Acer E15-571 laptop is crashing whenever he presses (not too hard, not too soft) on the touchpad and close to it (basically below the keyboard area).  He has recently installed and SSD in this laptop (I have the same laptop and have recently done the same and mine does not have this issue and therefore I don't think it was because of this), but he thinks it might have been happening for longer than that as it has restarted on its own before the installation of the SSD.

Any help? We have no clue what the heck is going on.  I have searched on Google many times to TRY resolve this issue and found absolutely nothing.  He has uninstalled and re-installed the SSD multiple times with no avail and he has checked the connectors of his SSD, keyboard and touchpad multiple times.As it is necessary on that model to remove the whole bottom of the Laptop to change the hard drive. Disconnect the ribbon cable to  the right 2 usb ports just to swap the drive.

The drive PLUGS into a socket which is soldered direct onto the main board onto the opposite side you can see. It could be DAMAGED CONNECTIONS between the main board and sata drive connector or a damaged sata connector. I suggest you remove the base and with a wooden chopstick very gently press around the area where the SSD plugs into the motherboard. PLEASE NOTE do not do this if the SSD has important DATA. Loosing power or a data connection to an ssd will cause data loss. Backup the ssd before you try this.

Ok so I'm very very confused how a piece of hardware can understand code. I read somewhere it has to do with voltages but how exactly does the piece of hardware KNOW what an instruction in software means? I know drivers is the bridge between software and hardware but a driver is still software :S.

For example, in C++ we have pointers and they can point to some address in memory.. Can we have a pointer that points to some hardware address and then write to that address and it would affect the hardware? Or does hardware not have addresses?

I guess what I'm really asking is how does the OS or BIOS know where a piece of hardware is and how to talk to it?Short answer. When the PC starts, the BIOS examines the usual places to locate a any hardware device and stores information in a set of pointers. The source coed for the original IBM PC is available, if you want to read it.
Long answer. Study all the engineering books son the original IBM PC  design.
Start Here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_Personal_Computer
Quote

The IBM Personal Computer, commonly known as the IBM PC, is the original version of the IBM PC compatible hardware platform. It is IBM model number 5150 and was introduced on August 12, 1981. It was CREATED by a team of engineers and designers under the direction of Philip Don Estridge of the IBM Entry Systems DIVISION in Boca Raton, Florida.
The generic term "personal computer" ("PC") was in use years before 1981, applied as early as 1972 to the Xerox PARC's Alto, but the term "PC" came to mean more specifically a desktop microcomputer compatible with IBM's Personal Computer branded products. The machine was based on open architecture,[1][2] and third-party suppliers sprang up to provide peripheral devices, expansion cards, and software. IBM had a substantial influence on the personal computer market in standardizing a platform for personal computers, and "IBM compatible" became an important criterion for sales growth. Only the Apple Macintosh family kept a significant share of the microcomputer market after the 1980s without compatibility to the IBM personal computer.
...

Hi. For some unknown reason I thought it was OK to print a confidential document at a print shop. Now a couple hours later I'm panicking that I did such a stupid thing. I'm not sure if I can or should do anything about it. Realistically, would the person that RELEASED the print JOB for me know or care what was on that document? I stood by the printer and picked up all my pages but could she have mistakenly printed more than one copy? Can that document from the print queue be reprinted? What is the likelihood of someone accessing that printer then finding my document? ...As you can see I'm pretty freaked out about this. Any advice would be appreciated! Large printer/copier devices often have a hard drive inside which stores any print job, fax, copy, or scan done on that machine. So it's possible that someone could re-print your document. WHETHER it is likely, we cannot tell.Tell the print shop your concerns...exactly how SENSITIVE is this document ? ?

Bare with me here, I'm GOING to try to explain what I'm trying to do. I'm OBVIOUSLY not so great with this stuff.
I host a karaoke night and I use two laptops, I have both laptops going to ONE regular monitor so the singer can read the lyrics, that is working out great. What I want to do is add a 32 inch tv facing the crowd so they can also see the lyrics. Can I run both laptops to the monitor just like I'm doing now, then run a cable from the monitor to the TV so the TV will display WHATEVER is on the monitor?
It would be easier to do it this way. With a Video SPLITTER, this is an HDMI one
https://www.walmart.com/ip/1X2-HDMI-Splitter-3D-Full-HD-1080P-One-Input-To-Two-Outputs-Hub-Signal-Distributor-for-Camera-XBOX-PS4-HDMI-De/244256854
So the laptop plugs into the i/p and there is two outputs for the monitor and TV.

hi guys,  i need help here with my computer Bluetooth. I use my pc to play ps3 games on it sometimes and the BT is locked on to my ps3 controller and i cant use it on other BT devices, I try to add ANOTHER BT dongle to the pc but my pc cant detect it, the BT is always turn off and the BT icon is missing too now, and no matter what i do i just cant turn it to on except i reset the BT dongle, with that i cant use the ps3 controller anymore on the pc. Is there any way to add another BT dongle to WINDOWS 10 or is there any hardware that i can use to have a DUAL BT dongle? sorry for my bad English, hope you guys UNDERSTAND what i mean. thank you

Problem:
What seems like randomly, my monitor will lose signal from my computer. Checking my HDMI connections and re-securing them does not RETURN signal to my display.
Troubleshooting so FAR:
I have unplugged and replugged my connections to both my monitor and graphics card but display does not return.
Restarting my computer fixes the issue...until it happens again. This makes me believe its not an issue with my HDMI cord.
I used a different HDMI cord and tried the other ports on my graphics card but issue still persists.

Note: In case its relevant, I am using a monitor that only has a DVI and VGA ports so I use a HDMI/DVI adaptor.

If there is any more info that is needed let me know!

 

PC Specs:

 

CPU:RYZEN 5 2600X

GPU:Asus Radeon RX Vega 56

PSU:Rosewill Hive 750W Modular 80+ Bronze

MB:MSI B450 Gaming Plus ATX AM4

Ram:8g-2666Try a NEW adapter...DONT buy a cheapo.Windows power management is joking with you. Go into settings and set up a power plan that does not turn off the screen. Also, make sure that Windows will not save power on the DVI and VGA ports. You do this in device management

Hi.. I'm an experienced computer person for 36 years, have built my own computers, but have never seen what happened today.  I pushed the button to turn on my old, regularly used  XP machine, and nothing.  Pushed it again, nothing. Tried a third time. Nothing.  Figured I'd have to replace the power SUPPLY.  I turned on another PC (Windows 10) I have on the same desk (was connected to first computer by a KVM switch.. both have been working together for years) , and proceeded to do my email check, run Word and a few other programs.  About an hour and a half later I heard a "bing", looked over and the first computer had turned on by itself and was booting up.  It has worked perfectly since then and re-booted fine.  So, wasn't the power supply.  Faulty or loose switch?  Some sort of short circuit?  Have any of you ever seen ANYTHING like this?

This is my first post.  Appreciate any ideas.  To be safe, I've copied all my IMPORTANT files, photos, etc. and put on other computers and external USB drives.  I've always BAKED up daily all important files.
THANK you,
cuzzzzz.Me again... Did it again today.  pushed ON button, nothing after a half hour.  Left home, came back hours later and it was on.Whats happening is it's taking an inordinate time to boot proper...my 1st suspect would be a failimg HDD...DLoad and run the free diags from the manuf. site...run the long test.Is it "blacked out = Off" and then finally turns itself on with power light and booted?

Hi, i'm looking for help here in the forum because nothing seems to work.
Let's take out of the way my specs:

i7 3770k 4.2Ghz paired with a Thermaltake Frio OCK
Asus P8Z68V Pro Gen3
Nvidea GTX 1060 3Gb Asus Phoenix
16Gb RAM DDR3 1333Mhz
500W Powersuply
1 500Gb HHD and other 2Tb HHD.

Well, i have been playing mostly Apex LEGENDS for the past months until it just started running really badly.
i usually got around 60 to 100 fps all in low 1080p, when suddenly, one day, it just stopped being that way. i started to get just 30fps or even lower with no parent reason to why.
Bothered by this i opened MSI AFTERBURNER to check if my components were overheating and, by consequence, throttling: my CPU was around 50°C to 60°C and my GPU reached 70°, nothing wrong here.
But i noticed that my GPU and CPU usage wasn't going up more than 40% to 50% even if i capped the game to 60fps or used V-Sync.
i already TRIED everything i know, deactivated firewall, widows defender and all overlays, reinstalled the game, pulled out the GPU from the PCIe socket. Nothing. Restarted PC. Nothing. I even DDU'd GPU drivers and reinstalled not only the newest ones but older ones too. NOTHING.
i'm in a lost of options and don't know what to do, please help me.

Ah, just FYI, i'm not a native English speaker so i can mess up my writing a lot, thanks for understanding.


MSI Afterburner image here: https://imgur.com/gallery/QR6dN76

If you can't see it:
GPU: 59°C, 36%
MEM: 2603 MB
CPU: 63°C, 43%
RAM: 7462 MB
D3D11: 30 FPSI'm assuming you already installed the latest drivers for your GPU.Never assume...

Today i started my computer, everything was fine. Until i tried to play something at youtube. The sound was very low and it was distorted. I opened up the speakers and SEARCHED for any wires that are not connected, every transistor, every capacitor and even the transformer and nothing seemed that exploded/burned. I even tried to reinstall windows 10 but the sound worked only for like half an hour and again started being distorted and low volume. I tried a lot of google searching and troubleshooting but nothing seemed to work. I even reinstalled the drivers and installed the latest ones but no difference. Windows notifications and musics from games seem to sound just fine. But when i go to listen something to opera (my default web browser) it works fine playing music but when someone's talking its very annoying. So i would be happy if someone responds... though i didn't tried to install other web browsers... I don't even know are they permanently or temporarily like that but i hope they aren't...

I tried even to turn off sound effects. When i try to turn off the "Other applications can take exclusive CONTROL of this device " OPTION but it gets on again...
I posted forum on other forums and some people think that its because i use the latest windows 10 version and that version has the sound broken and that.. if that is the case i would like to know how to GET the older version of windows...

I use Windows 10 Pro 64Bit version and Realtek audio drivers...You now have 2 Topics on issues...is this all the same PC ? ?
If so keep it in 1 Topic so we can DIAGNOSE...First of all are you sure its the computer and not the speakers your using. the fact that you went looking for problems in the speakers might point to the speakers as sketchy health. I'd connect them to another audio source and see if the problem is just with the set of speakers.

If its truly a problem with the Audio of the computer the cheapest and easiest solution is to buy a USB Audio Adapter for around $15-20 USD which acts as a sound card and the speakers then connect to this. This device would have a driver that supports Windows 10 when buying the correct adapter.Yep its the same pc

I have decided on a Dell Inspiron with SSD. Deciding between 256 and 512GB. I don’t need much but want to have plenty extra for maximum performance. I currently use 67GB which includes my Win 10 OS. I don’t have any large files or do gaming and have no reason to think my needs will grow over time since they have not grown over the last 10+ years. I read that you FIRST downgrade the advertised storage by 7% (GiB vs GB). Max working capacity should be no more than 90% of the downgraded value. So, 256 X .93 x .9 = 214GB max working capacity. Even with this downgrade, the nameplate 256GB SSD should be way more than I need. Am I thinking about this in the right way?Don't overthink it. 250Gb will be fine.Thx. Many of the options have SSD as boot drive with 1TB HDD. Can I keep everything on the SSD? I don’t want the hassle of managing dual storage. Can I just make the secondary HDD invisible?If you do get two hd's, make use of them. Keep the OS on the SSD for faster boot and most everything else on the platter. There's no extra work for you whatsoever. You can partition the hd into multiple logical drives if you like (as I always do) or just leave it as ONE big drive. Either way, be sure to make regular images of your drives. Quote from: Allan on October 01, 2019, 11:13:11 AM

If you do get two hd's, make use of them. Keep the OS on the SSD for faster boot and most everything else on the platter. There's no extra work for you whatsoever. You can partition the hd into multiple logical drives if you like (as I always do) or just leave it as one big drive. Either way, be sure to make regular images of your drives.

Hi everyone. I'm having an issue after updating my motherboards, CPU and RAM with the system seemingly randomly getting BSODs with the WHEA Uncorrectable Error message. I'm not able to reproduce it, however it seems to happen when I'm not putting it under load, and the one common thing is that I've been browsing on FIREFOX when it's crashed each time. But I played modern graphic power hogs like Control for hours without a hitch.


My new motherboards is an ASUS Prime z390-A with a i5-9600k (not yet overclocked), 16GB of corsair vengences DDR4 (2 8GB STICKS) and a GTX 1080. I'm got a corsair RM1000x PSU and a liquid cooler (forgot the model)

At first I thought it was drivers, but I've gone down the line and don't seem to have any out of date. Then I thought something was seated wrong, but I've checked and double checked and don't see any connection issues at all. I've been observing the temps and it rarely goes of 60C even under load (and it hasn't crashed during a game yet, only when browsing). I had a 750 so I upgraded to the 1000 even though undervolting probably wasn't the issue and it still happened.

Thing is, everything is reading everything else. I really just don't know what is causing this. I've tried going through the event viewer on windows but I can't find anything that really matches up right (or I'm missing it) for the time of the crashes. I've got .dmp files and have looked at them with bluescreenview, and it seems that the highlighted parts are ntoskenl.exe and pshed.dll are in red while hal.dll is in grey. When looking this stuff up, I start going crosseyed.

Any ADVISE would be appreciated. I don't think I have defective hardware, but I'm running out of probably explanations.Seems from the DX diag REPORT you are running bios  Version 0905 which you need to have to run the I5 9 series CPU. There is 3 more updates for the bios since, may be worth doing a bios update.

Please note the warning on the Asus web site about bios updating   I updated that a few days ago, and managed to confirm that the AI OC tweaking was turned off. Things seemed good for a few days, then just now I got BSOD'd again, this time it was under load while playing Arkham Knight. Still can' trigger to replicate, and this just means it is seemingly random. No heat spike, no warning, just poof.

I probably got a bum component, right?  Last software solution I can think of is to reinstall windows 10, which I guess I'll try tonight.Hi Again

Unlikely it is a faulty component from the factory all those parts are tested before dispatch. Also if you did a bios update and it's not to much trouble then a windows reload is a good idea. Are you using the Asus driver disk to load the drivers. I would until you get it running stable.

Is there any where you can get a loan of another CPU. Like a Core i3-8300 for example and use the stock cooler. This will then isolate the CPU as the cause if it doesn't error.

Can you post some links to photo's of your build please.Unfortunately, I don't have access to any other LGA 1151 CPUS, my old one won't fit in the new MB and I don't have anyone else around that would know what they are doing, or let me dig into their system. I suppose I could go to a local PC repair shop, but considering this sometimes takes days to trigger, I really don't want to leave my system in a shop for days if I can avoid it.

I did a win 10 refresh last night, and things have been fine, but again, it takes days to trigger sometimes, so I'll keep an eye on it. I'll post some photos of the interior tonight after work.

Here is the new DXdiag in the meantime, if it's helpful.

The DXdiag report seems to show you are using  Build 18362 which is an insider preview build.
Is there not more recent updates you could apply ?

Understand about getting another CPU, I was hoping you had something from an old build.
Well, it's been 3 days since I reinstalled windows. To test, I left it running a endless youtube stream all day while at work, and the next day I let Arkham Knight run all day, and no BSODs yet. I'm going to observe another day or two and if it all looks good, I'll mark this as resolved. Thanks for helping out, Lisa_maree.

I have a WD external My Book hard drive which has my back up on it.
I powered it on, plugged it in to my laptop and it showed up in device manager but not in windows explorer. The laptop is running windows 7 64bit.
I then tried it on my desktop computer which is running XP but it was exactly the same .
The option to Safely Remove Hardware is available on both the laptop and Desktop.
How can I get access to the files on it ?Simple answer is:  the cable is broke.
You can LOOK in the WD User Manuel. Look for tips to  howto know what is song,
https://www.wd.com/content/dam/wdc/website/downloadable_assets/eng/user_manual/4779-705107.pdf
Try to download it if you need it.
Look in chapter 8.
Hi

I would first check in disk MANAGEMENT that the drive is SHOWING and is healthy from here you may just need to ASSIGN it a drive letter. Search on Windows for      Disk management

Are you sure that you didn't use the wd toolkit to password protect the drive? If you did then you need the wd tools loaded to access the drive.

If all else fails you could download this program  https://www.reclaime.com/
It will scan the drive for files for free, but it costs to recover.

I bought this unit I am not sure if this is suppose to generate a WIFI signal when pluged into AC as it has no ac plug maybe have take screws out and open unit up and wire DIRECTLY instruction don't tell you nothing.Send it back to the vendor.
It should have come with some documentation.

Do you need a Wi-Fi repeater?

What you have there is a wall outlet. You take out a regular AC power wall outlet in a room, and then wire this device to the house power in its place and put it back in the hole in the wall. You do this with the house AC power switched off. If you don't KNOW exactly how to do this safely, you need an electrician. Inside the device is a router with wi-fi and a USB 5 volt power supply. You press the button to connect to your existing wi-fi and you get stronger w-fi in the room and ethernet connection. Read the manual! It has a USB charger socket, an RJ45 socket for wired network cable (ethernet). Once it is installed, you can't use that outlet for AC power any more.

hello

i have a GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS Ultra Gaming (REV. 1.0) motherboard and i want to buy this SSD m.2
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z370-AORUS-Ultra-Gaming-rev-10#kf 


ADATA XPG SPECTRIX S40G RGB PCIe NVMe M.2 2280 512GB SSD AS40G-512GT-C
https://www.xpg.com/US/feature/610

now i want to know if this SS m.2 will work on my motherboardAlthough that EXACT M2 is not on the M2 supported drives list it is a 2280 type which is supported so should be ok.

Motherboard M2 list here https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Document/mb_m.2_support_190507.pdf

Subreddit icon
r/techsupport
•Posted byu/GhOsT5437
7 hours ago
Strange issue with 144hz Monitor feeling like 60hz
Open | Hardware

I recently ordered a VIOTEK GFT27DB off of amazon. It has a refresh rate of 144hz but when actually using it, it feels more like 60hz despite it saying it is 144hz both in the Nvidia control panel and my display adapter settings. If I lower it to 120hz it feels way smoother than the "144hz" option and if I overclock it to 145hz or set it to 143hz, both of those options feel way smoother than the original 144hz. I am worried that this might be frameskipping and if so I could RMA it, but I find it strange that it only seems to glitch like this on 144hz. I have already tested it on ufotest.com to see its real refresh rate and it does say it is 144hz despite it clearly not behaving like one in everyday use. I only have one monitor and I am using a displayport 1.2 cable and my graphics card is a ROG Strix 2070 Super.

My main question is that should I just not worry about it since I can fix the issue by simply changing the refresh rate one hz higher or lower or should I try to contact the manufacturer for a replacement since it is still under warranty?

The original HDD in my PC had a Recovery Partition D. Years ago I purchased Win 7 to replace my original Win XP OS when MS announced it would be ending W7 support. I subsequently upgraded to W10 when MS first offered the free upgrade. At some point my original HDD failed and I replaced it with a new WD HDD and deleted the Recovery D partition since it served no purpose. However, when I open Macrium Reflect, there is still a small 450MB NTFS Primary partition showing with 340.1MB of data. It does not have a NUMBER assigned. The Active Partition is 232.45 GB with 61.26GB of data...it is the C partition.

I am assuming the small unassigned Primary partition contains WD identifying info. If this is true, when I clone my HDD to a new external SSD, I should NOT include the small 450MB partition, right? Thanks.Think I answered my own question. Looks this is a recovery partition created by MS, probably when I upgraded to W10. Since I keep current backup images, I should be able to safely delete, ie not clone, the recovery portion onto the new SSD.Better yet create a fresh backup before the clone and SAVE it to external...
Quote from: patio on OCTOBER 12, 2019, 08:58:13 AM

Better yet create a fresh backup before the clone and save it to external...

Correct...though a recovery partition can be handy

Hi Art

Windows after Windows Vista stopped having the start of the primary partition at the beginning of the drive. So there is a small System Reserved partition which contains two important things. The Boot Manager and Boot Configuration Data without these included in your backup any restore will not boot.

If you are upgrading drives you are better to transfer  from a source drive to a destination drive with up to date software which can adjust the System Reserved partition size to optimize your SSD performance.

Hi Art

Here is a link to an explanation of the System Reserved partition https://www.minitool.com/lib/system-reserved-partition.

Software like Easues partition manager and Paragon Disk manager both have the option to clone to SSD even smaller ssd's than the source.

Apologies if this is not actually a hardware issue. I believe it is, but I am not an expert, so I may be mistaken.

I use my PC mainly for gaming. On October 14th, everything was working fine. Games like DESTINY 2, Borderlands 3, and Code Vein were all running consistently at over 60 frames per second (Usually closer to the 70-80 range) on High or Max settings.
On October 15th, SUDDENLY all these games have inconsistent framerates, lower overall framerates, and significant stuttering when moving the camera/player character, or during combat. Borderlands 3, for example, now sees 30-50 frames per second during combat, in addition to the stutters when moving the camera. On the lowest settings, the framerate is better but still not as high as it used to be, sitting closer to 50-60 frames, and the stuttering is just as noticeable. Other games have the same problem, just to varying degrees. I did not install any new software or make any changes between the 14th and 15th.

So far, I have TRIED:
-Clean booting
-Updating video drivers
-Fully removing and re-installing video drivers with Guru3D
-Defragging the hard drive
-Replacing the HDD with an SSD
-Fresh install of Windows 10
-Removing and REARRANGING the RAM sticks
-Upgrading the graphics card from a GTX 1080 Ti to an RTX 2080 Ti (was already planning on doing this before the issues arose, so figured I'd give it a shot)

At this point, I'm guessing there's an issue with the CPU or Motherboard, but again, not an expert, so I'm not sure.

Specs:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5
Processor: Intel i7-6700k
OS: Windows 10 64-bit
RAM: 32 GB
Graphics cards: EVGA Nvidia GTX 1080-Ti and EVGA Nvidia RTX 2080-Ti
Power Supply: Corsair RM850x

Task Manager, Afterburner, and CPU-Z while Borderlands 3 is running:

Hi everyone, I have simple question but I'm unable to google: does laptop still use power when I power it off and plug CHARGER in but battery is fully charged?If the power button is off and the battery has a full charge, the flowing takes place whle the power cord is in the mains.
The system is off all the way. The battery charger system will go into idle mode. However, a very smell am mount of power is needed to monitor the status of the battery. Some systems use a passive mode where a small tinkle change is given to the battery. The am mount of power is very low, a fraction o a watt.

Just now I did a SEARCH on Google for this sentence:
How much power does my laptop use when it is turned off
Google said:
Quote

Always leaving a laptop computer plugged in, even when it's fully charged, can use a similar quantity — 4.5 kilowatt-hours of electricity in a week, or about 235 kilowatt-hours a year. (Your mileage may vary, depending on MODEL and battery.May 7, 2016

Hi

I have a monitor (Samsung SyncMaster P2370) which only has DVI input. When I connect it to my PC (DVI-to-DVI) I have no issues. But if I try to connect it to my laptop (DVI-to-HDMI) the left part of the image is shown on the right and vice versa, plus it's rather grainy
I have tried two different laptops and two different DVI-to-HDMI CABLES, with the same result.
The DVI-to-DVI cable is single link, while the two DVI-to-HDMI cables are dual link, but as FAR as I've read that shouldn't matter?    So the image is like looking in a mirror at something all opposite including TEXT?

Have you updated the GPU DRIVER instead of using whichever one Microsoft MAY have selected as part of Windows installation?

I BOUGHT a used DELL desktop with a male display port but my LCD only has a DVI port. I know there is an ADAPTER because I looked them up on line. HOWEVER, now I see a few terms like bi-directional and Uni-directional? Which on do I need and what do those terms mean?? Do I need to be CONCERNED about these two terms? I just need to do some basic viewing on occasionally watch a dvd of video on line.

Thank you.

AAO So sorry the LCD has a HDMI PORT !!!

Thanks !!

Albert O.

It took a few years of hand WRINGING but I finally bought a new PC. My BIL owns his own software company and used to sell computers. I would say he is a bonafide hardware/software expert. He has at least a dozen desktops and never buys a new one. Just like CameronGray recommended, he strongly recommended I buy a refurbished Optiplex. I considered doing it but just could not. Read too many reviews of people having early failures, OS had virus, etc. Anyway, my rig is 13yo and this will be the last one I get so I wanted new. I got a Dell Inspiron with a ninth GENERATION i5 processor (9MB cache), 12GB RAM and 512GB SSD.This is way more firepower than I will ever need but I know I will enjoy the fast boots and application loads.

Thanks to all who have helped me keep my old HP a1600n alive and running. She still works great...just slow as Moses.Congrats ! ! Xmas arrived early..... Quote

Thanks to all who have helped me keep my old HP a1600n alive and running. She still works great...just slow as Moses.

While you have one awesome replacement of a computer, if you wanted to get more performance out of that a1600n you might be able to find a Athlon 64 x2 5000+ CPU for it cheap such as off ebay and squeeze more performance out of it than what may be just the 3800+ 2.4Ghz processor.

http://cpuboss.com/cpus/AMD-Athlon-X2-3800-vs-AMD-Athlon-64-X2-5000

The extracting process starts at about 400mb/s, then drops down to about 35mb/s after a few seconds.
This can't be normal surely?

I THINK it's running OK with other tasks.. When I'm gaming there doesn't seem to be an issue.. or at least I've not NOTICED one.Are the zips very compressed? That is, is the compression level high? What unzip software are you using? Are you extracting to the same folder or same drive? Is the drive where the extracted file(s) are going nearly full? Are you running the CPU near MAX with other tasks? What operating system?
^^^  +1Also, is the RAM MAXED out? Are the SOURCE and destination drives internal or external?

My laptop display works well most of the TIME. but when I CHANGE the angle of the display or when I press the display, ONE part of the SCREEN goes black.

Can someone help me to figure out where the problem is? Is the flex cable or led display bad?  As it is the top right corner if you are right handed it is most likely the LCD panel which is faulty not the cable .Replace the cable...then you'll KNOW...

In Control Panel > Hardware and Sound > Devices and PRINTERS , there is all this icons which multiply like rabbits.
What are they? Why so MANY there and more I use my PC, more of them. How to stop that HAPPENING? Do I need the for PC to work properly?
See attachments. Thanks
 When you install Netgear Genie on Windows PC, it enables a media server named "Genie Media Server - SimpleDMS", which allows DLNA enabled devices to playmedia from that PC

The 2 documents attached were printed with my laptop using Excel (.xlsx) on 2 different printers. The example with all horizontal lines printed were done on my friends Printer (Ricoh Aficio. MP C305).  The example with horizontal lines missed randomly was done on my printer (HP Deskjet 2540). What can I do to fix this?
Settings on my printer are shown in this .jpg image:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tikqy97ynha99ya/Printer%20settings.jpg?dl=0

Document with all horizontal lines is here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0dqub60j8cewijb/Donation%20form1.pdf?dl=0

Document with horizontal lines randomly skipped is here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yw6qjfuj5xn8fmb/Donation%20form2.pdf?dl=0Example 1 attachedExample 2 attached with skipped horizontal linesHi
Try the printer on USB connection the printer properties show (net , suggesting you are printing using wireless or over a network.
P.S I love your posts you give so much good INFO thanks.
Same result printing via USB connection.Is the printer out of warranty?
If this is for a home or small office, HP makes some printers under $100 that can do the job. They have a one year warranty.
Of course, the cheap printer will not do as much output as the model you now have.  Myself, I have been through many printers over the YEARS. I have found iIf a printer has high value, you need to find a good technician to help you.It's out of warranty. As an arm and leg amputee I have limited income and buying a new printer, even under $100, is a big deal. I was hoping to figure this one out. It prints just fine with all other documents and IMAGES (.pdf, .txt, .jpg, etc.). The issue is only with these Excel documents. That first made me think it was an issue with my Excel settings but it prints Excel fine when connected to my friends printer. Weird!  Allegedly, based on some other forum posts from people having the same issue with their HP inkjet printers, if you export to an XPS file and then print the XPS file it works.Here is an idea. Make  Excel send to document to the .PDF output. There is  an option to print ALMOST any document to PDF.

The open the file with a PDF reader and print it to your printer.
Can you do that? Awesome!!! They print just fine after I use the option; Export > Create PDF/XPS Document. Thanks once again for the help guys!

Wasn't sure what topic this GOES under. Have a Dell Inspiron N7110 not turning on. Bought a NEW BATTERY but that didn't do it. With AC cord plugged in, no lights at all. TRIED the pressing start button for a minute fix, but that didn't do it. Any other tests I can do? Can I test motherboard, or is my next option, just to replace it? Can you replace POWER supplies on laptaps, like on PC's? Let me know what you think I should do next?

If I press the power button, the pc will not power on respond. The motherboard light is on and green. WEIRD thing is when I slightly tug the front header wires, the pc will light up and fans for a second then power off again.

Psu: LMS Power 750w
Cpu: i5 2300 2.8ghz

Thanks guys Quote

Weird thing is when I slightly tug the front header wires, the pc will light up and fans for a second then power off again.

I am looking to update an old laptop (Lenovo R61i) to an SSD perhaps soon. I have DONE a little research: I need to know if the BIOS will support an SSD. It seems like it will (I did a scan with Crucial).

So, this one would presumably work for instance?
https://www.newegg.com/crucial-bx500-120gb/p/N82E16820156186

I will open it up to check, but I am also wondering about a 7mm drive fitting into a 9.5mm bay (likely, as this is an older laptop). Seagate seems to think it will be okay: "The original bracket for the OEM hard drive that you are replacing will ALMOST always be able to fit the new BarraCuda SSD. The side mounting holes relative to the interface connector will be the same as the original HDD, thereby ensuring that the new BarraCuda SSD will fit." from https://www.seagate.com/ca/en/do-more/upgrade-laptop-with-ssd-master-dm/

Thanks kindly!


Here is the storage info from Speccy:

HITACHI HTS723232A7A364
   Manufacturer   Hitachi
   Product Family   Travelstar
   Series PREFIX   Standard
   SATA type   SATA-II 3.0Gb/s

CPU:

Intel Pentium T2390
   Cores   2
   Threads   2
   Name   Intel Pentium T2390

Motherboard:

Manufacturer   LENOVO
Model   7650ELU (None)I have yet to have a BIOS not detect a SATA SSD yet of computers going back to even SATA 1. The only issue I have EVER had with SATA and laptops are that back in the day of Windows XP, the Windows XP OEM CD lacked the proper driver support for the NEWER SATA controller and so I had to use a driver for the SATA controller during the install process otherwise HDD NOT FOUND would happen. If your installing Windows 10, you should have no problems.

Hello,

I have recently had Windows XP running OK on my machine, but (for reasons I won't get into here) I am going back to Windows 98. I had WinXP running on NTFS and so I ZERO'd the HARD disk, run FDISK (to set 1 PARTITION only - FAT32) and reformatted the disk. Everything with the drive appeared to perfectly OK. The disk booted fine into DOS after the format. Free space etc all reports properly. Then after installing 98, it simply will not boot. In fact, it refused to boot into windows during the first re-boot of the installation process.

So, I re-did the whole proccess again. Same result. I have successfully installed 98 onto this disk a number of times in the past, but it just seems to hang now.

It's a 40GB Baracuda, S.M.A.R.T is reporting no problems, and I'm running it through a 80 pin cable, with cable select pin configuration on IDE1.

Everythings checks out OK, but it simplt hangs FOREVER when attempting to START windows. Autoexec seems to execute OK, it's when it gets to the 'starting windows for the first time' message that it just sits there.

thanks
iosmanBoot sector?

Recently, I remembered that I have an older monitor which I could use to have dual monitors. Since it didn't work I had it fixed and now it's working fine.

I went to BIOS, enabled integrated graphics, enabled the "surround view" option, which is (how the option is described in the BIOS) supposed to be multiple monitors option, connected the monitor to onboard VGA and...nothing.

I only get the "No signal" on the screen and that's it, not that the cable isn't connected just that it's not getting any signal.

I tried switching the cable, still nothing, the monitor isn't even SHOWING in the DEVICE Manager, but integrated GPU is. I then tried connecting my primary monitor to that VGA and I tried it with both cables and even the primary monitor wasn't getting any signal.

Now, here's the thing; the older monitor has only one port, and it's the VGA, my dedicated graphics card has no VGA, for whatever reason, that's why I went for the integrated graphics.

Some time AGO, I had a VGA to DVI adapter and while this older monitor was working, but powering on slowly, I connected it through the adapter to dedicated GPU and it said that the signal wasn't supported, so I pretty much gave up immediately, since the monitor was on the verge of death then.

I was SEARCHING the Internet for a solution for my problem, and I found out that dedicated GPU and integrated GPU don't work together but I never found out how do I make them work together.

Motherboard is BIOSTAR 6+ A960D+V3
Monitor is Acer G195HQVUsing the integrated GPU and the dedicated GPU together is very hit and miss if it works at all, as you are finding.
The bios has an option to set the integrated GPU as the primary controller but with the monitor being VGA and the performance hit you will take by using this setting is it worth while? You would be better either to only use 1 monitor. Or replacing the Acer VGA monitor with a monitor  supported by the Dedicated GPU.   It doesn't work at all unless it's supported...
Approx 8% of MBoards support it...what board is this ?

Hi! I am new here! I am pretty good with computer software, but hardware not so much.

So, I went to power on my PC, and heard a brief electrical sound, and then a small burnt smell. Can you recommend steps to take?

I bought a new power supply and compressed air to clean the INSIDE (it wasn't too bad, but definitely could use a clean, and CPU FAN seems a little dusty). If I try to power it up after cleaning, can I just leave the just essentials? That is to say, not power on the optical drive or secondary HDD (it was the primary, but a friend upgraded me to a SSD a couple of years ago).

Thanks kindly!
Hi

Does the old power supply smell burnt like the smell you describe as a small burnt smell. If So what power supply make and model is it. Also what power supply are you installing. 

I would leave the drives disconnected and just start the computer with the motherboard connected first if the screen displays anything, then  connect the SSD and see if the computer boots then connect the other drives.
How old is your PC?
Was it a factory  model or home made? 
What CPU does it have?
Apologies for the delay.

Lisa_maree: It's been a little while, so I cannot tell where the smell came from anymore. Old PSU is OCZ ModX Stream-Pro 500W. The one I bought is a Corsair 550W TX550M.

Geek-9pm: It is from 2011, home made, it has a Sandy Bridge i5, Quad Core, not sure which exactly.Well the good news is the old supply is fully protected so if anything goes wrong with the power supply it will shut down to protect the other computer parts.

When you swapped the power supply did you replace all the cables, the cables from the power supply to the computer components. Modular cables can be wired differently between PSU manufactures.

Also you could try using just the motherboard power and the cable supplied for the cpu power and see if the computer starts. Apologies for the delay! I will try in short order.

My friend who built the computer seems to think the MoBo and all (save for external components, like the old platter HDD) are dead. I think I will upgrade with his help, but would like to potentially see if I can GET it to boot so I can assess some old projects I have on the GO (VIDEO editing for example).

You do NOT need to get the old HDD to boot to save/use your data...put it in a workin desktop as a slave drive and retrieve all your data...
The PC is dead...the HDD isnt

I have a pc with a Gigabyte EP45T-UD3LR(Socket 775)motherboard which has 4 RAM slots and is supposed to be capable of 16GB total RAM. I have 8GB now-2 sticks of 4GB DDR3L-1600 UDIMM 1.35 CL 11. I ordered 2 more more sticks of same, down to the brand-Crucial. Installed the RAM and computer powers up but doesn't boot, shuts down then tries again...repeats....Help?Is the RAM on the MBoards QVL list ? ? I'm going off a scan done by Crucial that says the RAM is compatible. And it does work with 2 4GB sticks, but with 2 more of same, for total of 16, is doesnt.What RAM is in there and what RAM did you buy ? ?It had 2 - Crucial 4GB DDR3L-1600 for total of 8GB. I bought 2 more of same exact THING. I've been on Gigabytes site and Gigabytes owners manual and it says the vendor(Crucial)is on the QVL and that max memory is 16GB. The motherboard is GA-EP45T-UD3LR with 4 memory slots. Works with 2 but not 4...?Rule of thumb is to never mix ram. Even though you purchased 2 identical  sticks of the same ram you had. You should purchase 4 sticks at the same time. All 4 should be from the batch. Yeah it sounds stupid.
Possibly bad sticks or the timings could be different ?
BSOD victim because of ram.The GA-EP45T-UD3LR comes with Intel's "Flex Memory technology," which allows the motherboard to react gracefully if MULTIPLE RAM types are installed. So this motherboard should not freak out because of DIFFERENCES in RAM, or at a minimum, the Intel Flex should provide you with a message at POST about it.

If I were you I would try removing the old RAM, and installing the new RAM in the same slots. Does the computer boot normally? If so, the new RAM sticks are probably OK.

You also might want to GO into the BIOS and load the fail-safe defaults for your DRAM configuration as on page 37 of the manual http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-ep45t-ud3lr_v1.1_e.pdf

Also - if you're getting beeping at the failed boots, check the beep codes on page 98 of the manual, that might shed some light.

I contact you because I have a problem that I can not solve. This goes beyond my computer skills.

Indeed, for more than a year and a half, the crackling sounds appear randomly when a video is launched. Mainly via web browsers but also via Windows readers. (Problem occurred suddenly, probably because of a software update of one of the components)

observations:
What's interesting is that the problem intensifies when the reading application is in the background. (reduction of a window, or at the back of another window).
The problem does not occur when I use an external sound card or use the audio source of the HDMI cable that comes out of my graphics card.

To be specified: when the problem arises, (Example on Netflix or Youtube), the sound is out of sync. the sound is offbeat (late on the image) with each crackle.

I made a video with the famous cracklings:
https://youtu.be/Dz_Ju6nu78g

My attempts:
I tried to spot the problem by trying other components: Ram, Power, Case, motherboard, graphics card (except processor).

Updated CG drivers, reinstall windows, change port jack, change headphones, update bios, reinstall REALTEK drivers ...

I then contacted the support.

Intel tolds me :
Quote

I checked the reports you sent and I can see that the processor is working in the specifications.
In addition, the processor is not responsible for creating the sound, the sound card does it, in your case, the sound card NVidia.

Je remarque que votre carte audio est une Realtek, je pense qu'il faut se PENCHER sur ce volet là puisque LE SOUCI n'est pas apparent si vous passez par le HDMI de la carte graphique.

Conclusion:
In my opinion, this is probably a software problem. A program interferes with the audio driver of my CM.

The problem does not occur when I use an external sound card or use the audio source of the HDMI cable that comes out of my graphics card.

I disagree, but I have no proof. I think it is a defect in the sound chip.  Good and cheap sound chip replacements are easy.

A cheap USB audio solution can be found at amazon and other vendors.
Search for USB sound card adapter and find lots.
Under $15. 

If your using latest drivers which were intended for your OS, I'd say avoid use of that sound device and use the others that dont act up.

Does the audio/video sync issue happen with external sound card ( assuming USB) or HDMI from video card?

Hello every one
Two days ago my laptop suddenly freeze with strange sound and screen off, after i restart it it's doesn't work and screen is black, i connected laptop to PC screen, sometimes PC screen start and down and some times get strange line " in attach", and other it work fine and laptop screen on , when i restart i face the same problem.
When i start the laptop the fan work with high speed and HOT air get out from it.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I've spent 5 days trying to figure out how to Multi-Boot.and read hundreds of pages, & printed dozens of pages, many in Wikipedia & many in GNU.ORG about free software on Multi-Boot software. Thanks to my bad short term memory due to old age I've written dozens of pages of NOTES and tried to even get my Windows XP system to Multi-Boot but made it worse instead. Compounding the problem is Microsoft and all my browsers are obsolete and NEED new VERSIONS that won't download to my windows XP. Now I have to give up on trying to install my Windows XP & may have to take my desktop to a professional where I bought the Win10 to install it after Black Friday. The quoted me only $40 but my Desktop XP is such a mess I have my doubts even they can install the software. Now I'm considering to buy a refurbished Desktop computer with Windows 10 already on it & give up the $100 + HST for Windows 10 that I paid for. I'm just a novice when it comes to using PC's but I can't even Burn CD's as the drive made about 5 or 6 CD's WRITE protected and even wiped out data that I added to an old used CD. So what's your expert opinions, do you think I should buy a refurbished PC or get a pro to install the Windows 10???  Also, if anyone can tell me how to get the $5 fee charge + later charges of $60 which came from Hope, out of my Chrome browser please do so it's messing up my Chrome browser from doing any real browsing. Thanks to all you experts for any posts. Gable.

So Previously I used a scepter monitor as my main, it CONNECTED to my RX580 via display port. I just got an LG ultrawide that connects via HDMI. Ive had the ultrawide connected for a few days no problem, and I just got in my second wall mount for the scepter display. When I have the scepter display connected by itself it works fine, But the second I add the HDMI into the mix, the display freaks out, it KEEPS connecting and disconnecting, as well as makes my computer freeze like crazy from all the re connecting. I got it to work for like 5 minutes but it was stuck in 640x480. Please HELP, Ive been working on this for hours and have gotten NOWHERE. I restarted my PC, and it still doesnt work. The monitor now doesnt even see that there should be a display, it keeps waking up like its getting a signal, then going right back to sleep, this is CAUSING a lot of freeszing and stuttering, I dont know what else to do, please help!!!

Specs

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/51tgXQhcgu1J0Ik7Eq3qyMP (the cpu temps and some speeds are not correct for some reason, My cpu is not idling at near 90 LOL)

Rx580 8g

R5 2600

16g 3200mhz

Scepter c24(Display port)

lg34wl500-b (HDMI)

Drivers ar 19.9.2

Windows 10 pro 64bit

Ran DDU aswell

 

Last night when I was not around my (open) laptop, my water BOTTLE had tipped over all over my keyboard. I found out a few mins after, during which my friends had dried out the surface and TRIED turning it on from sleep mode. I know the first rule is to never turn it back on when wet, but I was not there when they did. It turned on fine, so I quickly backed up a few important files and turned it off, flipped it upside down, and left it to dry on a couple of paper towels for the rest of the night. I have a few questions regarding my next steps:

1. When I turned my laptop off, I KINDA panicked and put it on sleep mode. It's still on sleep mode, but I'm too scared to turn it back on to power it back off again. It's been about 9 hours since the spill, do I leave it in sleep mode?

2. I think my chances are on the better side because it was working fine after the spill before I turned it off. But I want to know if I still should CHECK for corrosion and water damage. My laptop is not on warrenty, and I'm not about to shell out a couple hundred to fix something that may not really need fixing. I'm going to leave it upside down for about 24 hours, but before powering on, should I take it apart and try to clean the motherboard with isopropyl alcohol? I'll probably turn the laptop on so that I can turn it off again properly if I do. Any advice if I should mess with this?

My laptop is an Asus Q525UA, if that matters. Thanks in advance.

hi, I don't EVEN know if I'm posting on the right PLACE but I have a problem that I cant figure out. I had to get a replacement computer and its a REALLY bad one. my old computer let me connect to the 5.0 GHZ wifi at my house but now only the 2.4 shows up. in properties it says 802.11 bgn whatever that means. So is there a way to get 5.0 ghz on my computer like an adapter perhaps? thank you. Quote from: garena9x on November 03, 2019, 10:11:08 PM

hi, I don't even know if I'm posting on the right place but I have a problem that I cant figure out. I had to get a replacement computer and its a really bad one. my old computer let me connect to the 5.0 ghz wifi at my house but now only the 2.4 shows up. in properties it says 802.11 bgn whatever that means. So is there a way to get 5.0 ghz on my computer like an adapter perhaps? thank you.

I am interested in buying a video card (GTX 1080 FTW) from someone I don't know.
He says he'll have it running on a computer when I go pick it up.
Should I ask him to run a benchmark software or something like that?
I want it for VR mostly.

Thanks guysStress testing it would be best and watch the temperature of the GPU through the process to make sure its operating within spec. Have it grind out a heavy GPU processing benchmark for a good 10 minutes or so to really get it to heat up. More info here: https://www.wepc.com/how-to/stress-test-graphics-card/

*You will also want to pay attention to the display as its GRINDING out the stress test and watch for glitches and artifacts and stuff like that. Additionally if the person selling the video card knows it has a flaw they will probably chicken out the minute you say you want to run a stress test on it as it will catch them trying to pass off a bad/damaged video card and they will likely refuse to allow running it and want you to buy it as-is without the stress test and usually the price tag lower than it should be is an indication that they are trying to dump their problem card.

*Lastly if the video card potentially has a valid warranty left on it, as the video card hasn't been altered by anyone, you could potentially buy a damaged card and submit it for warranty repair/replacement and have a good video card in the end if your willing to deal with the RMA mess of SENDING a video card out and getting it back. Asking the seller for the serial number info on the video card first, you can look it up to see if it still is covered by a warranty before buying it.

A friend of mine got a dead 3 year old HARD drive for free that someone was throwing away and it was still covered by a 5 year warranty so he contacted the hard drive manufacturer and placed a warranty claim and they shipped him a healthy replacement  Only cost to him was the shipping fee to send in the dead drive which was like $8.00 USD, which was a bargain when the drive was worth about $50 at the time healthy new. So he figured he saved $42 by getting a hard drive that retails for $50 for just $8.This a great reply!
Thank you for sharing Dave 


CHEERS!
Good Luck and hoping your able to get a healthy video card at a bargain.  Thanks a bunch Dave!

Hello

I need to replace my CD/DVD drive amd I am not sure which type or model I need.

I have a Packard Bell PC iMedia D2525 UK and in my Win 10 Device Manager, under DVD/CD-ROM drives, I can see:

HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GHDON ATA Device.

Thank you for any help.

RegardsHi

You can use any SATA DVD drive in your Packard Bell here is one which will work 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DRW-24D5MT-Internal-Optical-Vertical-Horizontal/dp/B074QTVY4Q/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=sata+dvd+drive&qid=1575833995&s=computers&sr=1-7


All PC's use a standard type of optical drive nowadays (SATA). Your concerns should only need to be standard or slimline & what functions you want. I.e blu-ray, disc writing/rewriting, etc.

Why do you need to replace the existing drive?Many thanks, Lisa - just what the doctor ordered.

Thanks, too, Accessless. I need a replacement because sometimes I can watch normally bought DVDs and other times I can't. Also, when I am burning home VIDEOS to DVD, the drive struggles - I can hear the disc whirring around in the drive and the light flashes on and off whereas it should remain stable while burning. It wasn't always LIKE this, but I can tell it is flagging. It's about 3-4 years OLD and in constant use.

Thanks again.