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Well, I did not used this laptop for a few MONTHS, and last day my desktop had a problem with freezing so I was doing memtest and turn on this laptop.

I reinstalled chrome as it asks to, very old version could not update, some glitch happened with no sound after reinstalling, restart fixed it.

I played some documentary on youtube, me and cousin were watching, and laptop suddenly goes of after AROUND 1h of watching.
It was same like eletricity went of, and light in front goes white.

Turned it back on, everything works, no any watchdog, bsod log, just event log about unexpected shut down.

Same laptop had this before, when it was 2 monthss old, I sent it back and they said they exchanged MOBO as it was faulty.
Now, exact the same thing occurs, at least occured once, but I know it will repeat, something probably is not right, and I am out of warranty, now laptop is 13 months old, actually 6 because firts i bought lenovo and returned to shop...long story, anyway im out of warranty and cant send it back.

Whats funny thing, dell diagnostic found zero problems, prime95 for hour running on cpu, nothing, fumark stressed it to 75c, nothing.
I ve left ram to test, but im of thoughts its not either, and it could be that mobo serie is just a bad one.

I scanned hdd with hdtunes trial pro also, nothing, all clean green ones.

Laptop is always on charger, and battery is always inside it.

What do you think could be a problem, if its not overheating, and all the check i mentioned above.
Could it be a mobo again, even new one, its maybe just 3-4 times turned on?

Even if i have warranty, im not sure i would sent it back, because for same problem it was returned once.
And i know how this problem goes, sometimes in day turns off 5 times, sometimes wont turn off for WEEK or so.

update:right now im running memtest86Appears like you are having a power issue, try making sure the battery is clipped in properly if it is, try testing a new battery. If none of these work it could be a lose CONNECTION inside the laptop maybe due to a lot of wear and tear or dropping it?

I tried opening port 27015 for my gmod server on my PC (windows 10). The interface is LINKSYS smart wifi. I tried adding a rule for my inbound rules under port 27015 in my FIREWALL. I CHECKED 73.170.172.125:27015 on https://www.yougetsignal.com/tools/open-ports/ and it said the port is closed on my public IP.

https://ibb.co/j0ArEw

Hello

I have a hub like the one attached.

Only the green power light to the left is lit up and the red Overcurrent light. What does that Overcurrent light mean, please, because when I plug in my new Web cam to the hub, WINDOWS does not recognise it.

Thanks



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The webcam is taking too much power from the USB hub. It may be faulty or damaged. Check the specifications on the web cam label which should INCLUDE the current in amps it needs.
If the overcurrent light is on BEFORE any devices are plugged into the hub, it's very likely the hub is defective.  If the light stays off until a device is plugged in (webcam), that indicates that the device is trying to draw more than the hub can deliver. Quote from: strollin on January 05, 2018, 01:02:20 PM

If the overcurrent light is on BEFORE any devices are plugged into the hub, it's very likely the hub is defective

Apparently, web cams need to be attached to the PC tower. seems to be OK now.

Hubs are too weak for a cam.

Dear Experts

I have got Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ that connected to my WINDOWS 7 Desktop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

when i CONNECT my canon pixma MP230 USB printer it goes offline , if I connect the usb CABLE to computer directly the same printer will be ONLINE again.
 
Is that because USB hub doesn't supply enough POWER to the printer,,,,,,,,,,,,I have experienced the same issue before

Thanks

So, suddenly my WD External HDD 1021 is running at 100% usage, which is bogging down my entire PC while plugged in. There are multiple applications being cycled through when viewing the processes menu. These include System, Superfetch, Windows Defender, and a few other Microsoft apps. These only run at .1 MB/ps. Not enough to cause 100% usage.

I ran Windows in safe boot mode and the issue remained. The problem doesn't appear to be services. I also plugged the external into my laptop and the issue occurred exactly the same.

I am UNABLE to run defrag, wipe the free space, run an anti-virus, and the drivers appear up to date. Any action performed while the external is plugged in causes the entire computer to hang-up. It even caused some startup issues that required a system restore in safe mode.

I'm wondering if someone could put me on the right track to possibly resolving this issue without formatting the drive or tossing it in the trash with 4TB of quality data stored on it. Does this sound like hardware failure, or more like a virus? I've done some research and my issue seems uncommon compared to others with the 100% disk usage ERROR.

Any help is greatly, greatly appreciated. Thanks.

*Forgot to add that my laptop is running Windows 7, and is pretty much running stock. It has one game, Firefox, and drivers for my wifi. That's it. I only use it if my primary PC has problems.If you start Resource Monitor you can see what processes are accessing that disk. (If you sort Disk activity by "File" all the requests for that drive should sort in the same location). I'd verify that the drive is not being indexed (Indexing Options in control panel).

I'd also suggest running chkdsk /R on the drive.
chkdsk appears to just stall. It won't run until I unplug the HDD.

Attached is what the resources monitor shows. The processes are all located on the C drive. They shuffle around quite a bit.

[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]Her is the list of files running.

It looks like sppsvc might be the culprit? Maybe Windows security is detecting malware on the external which is causing an error? Windows defender RUNS too. These are the only processes that are running besides the windows system processes.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If chkdsk is hanging it is almost certain that the drive is failing or has failed. That very likely may be the cause of the issue- particularly since the usage amounts listed in Resource Monitor are trivial. My understanding of the Disk Activity % is that it measures the portion of time over the last few seconds (I'm not sure the precise time frame) that the drive has had an active request- that is, the system goes "I'd like to read data at this location, please" and then waits for the drive to respond with the results.  Failing drives often take a very long time to respond (due to attempts to correct for errors) or sometimes don't respond entirely, resulting in the Activity % for the drive sticking at 100%.

You'll want to try to get any valuable data off the drive that you can as soon as possible.


Alright, appreciate the heads-up!

Hi,

I have a HP Pavilion laptop which is nearly two years old. I've only just got it back from the company that sold it to me as it STARTED only switching on intermittently and they took it in and replaced the HARD drive. TODAY is the second time I've used it since getting it back and while watching a video the sound stopped. Then a little while LATER when trying to fix the sound issue I noticed that I can't play videos at all. I've tried DIFFERENT browsers and multiple sites and it seems as though I have can't play any videos and I have no sound. I'm really frustrated as I've been without it for over a month while haggling with the company to get it fixed and now this. Anyone have any ideas on what this might be? Do I need to take it back to the company again? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
CarlaThanks rosbert. Have managed to fix it now thankfully!

Hello, my headphones broke in my laptop, a piece is STUCK in the aux for it, and now I have no sound, is there a way to GET sound with the piece broken off in the laptop headphone jack auxIt would be difficult to impossible unless you open the laptop case and physically push the broken-off piece out from the inside.  It's not that difficult to open the case.  Often you can Google your laptop model and find disassembly instructions. In addition to the Google search, I would go DIRECTLY to youtube.com and search for videos.  Or, be sure to look for videos that might appear in your Google search. The center of the plug that is stuck in there should be hollow. If you see the hollow core of the plug then you might be able to use a small DRILL bit, screw, or paper clip with bent tip to SNAG the plug and remove it.  If the smallest of strands of wires are still showing in there you might be able to grab it with tweezers and pull it out.

*** Do This With Computer Turned Off to avoid shorting your audio port ***Tweezers...

And no...no other jacks will function while that's in there...

I have a Lenovo H30-05 with a AMD E1 processor with a speed of 1.5G. It is a dog and I am wondering if I can put a Lenovo Athlon II mother board and processor in without making any other changes. It will bolt in exactly but will it work with the hard drive, the soft ware stored on the hard drive, etc.? Can I simply change mother boards (processors are soldered on motherboard) and turn the COMPUTER back on and have it work as it did before only faster?? If not is it possible with minor changes? ThanksIf by "software stored on the hard drive" you mean a Windows installation, it will almost CERTAINLY not work, or if it boots be very prone to crashing. You WOULD need to do a fresh install and if it is an OEM licence it would be invalid and would probably refuse to activate.
The great thing about Lenovo desktop and laptops is that they are so widely used in business and education that the second hand/refurb market for them is always flooded. So, they're usually in great shape at a reasonable price. It really might be worth your while to look for a newer model on ebay, or at your local repair/refurbishing shop.Thank you both for your RESPONSE. I will just need to replace the computer when I can't take it anymore.

Went to my old HP a1600 rig this morning and all I had was a black screen with the blue Window in the center. Tried to reboot and repair but nothing is working. Running Win 10. Will someone please give me tips on how to diagnose and repair? Thanks.Do you have a Windows 10 boot disc to try to boot this system off of a DVD or USB stick to know if its just a corrupt install or a hardware failure? If it doesnt boot off of a Disc or USB stick then we can go from there and process of elimination.

Is this blue window screen just the HP Splash Screen at POST or something else?Thx Dave. Don’t know what a splash screen is. What I had was the Microsoft Windows logo on a black background. PC unresponsive to mouse or keyboard. Shut off/on with power button. PC tried to repair itself but could not. Tried a couple “advanced options” which did not work. Finally tried the system reset which did work but had to reset logon password. Personal files were saved but many apps were uninstalled including a few legacy apps which are no longer available. There is now a shortcut on desktop which shows all apps/programs which were uninstalled. What a PITA! The only thing I can figure is something went wrong on an automatic update.

Do you think there is any way to restore my PC to its prior state? I have a Macrium backup image but it won’t have the uninstalled apps/programs.Why wouldn't the Macrium image have all the apps ? ?

I don't understand.Patio, I don’t really know but I remembered (maybe incorrectly) that Reflect only does files and OS, not installed software & apps.

Know what? Maybe I was thinking about Win Transfer that upgrades from 7 to 10 which did not transfer 3rd party software. It has been so long since I restored a HD from a Reflect image that I do not remember if it has software or not. If it does, I will be a happy camper.

Wish I knew what caused the original problem. Right now I am trying to restart after installing Macrium Reflect and Win is taking forever to “get ready”. Starting to think I am about to have the same thing happen again. Ok, did a quick internet search and, as usual, found my problem is not at all UNIQUE. Unfortunately no easy fix. After being stuck on the “getting ready screen for an hour, I gave up. Powered off and was able to reboot from the Macrium disc and am now installing my backup image. Will let you know what happens.

Some advise that you should let “get ready” screen work for as long as the progress circle DOTS are operating, even up to a day or more. I did not feel like waiting since it is apparent that the update install already failed once. After I get my backup image installed, MS will probably want to DOWNLOAD the problem update and the same thing may happen again unless I turn off automatic updates.Just for future reference a Macrium Image file contains everything on the HDD at the time the image was created...

So you should be good to go....bring us good news.

On another note when creating or restoring a Macrium inage the bootable media should always be used for best results...Ok, Patio you were right as usual. Restored image was complete. Problem update still will not install but at least it did not hang PC again, although I am sure it will eventually. I will start another THREAD in the Win 10 Forum. Thanks to all.Looks like you should be successful if the image is a good one and not corrupt.

Regarding splash screen, its the screen at POST, at boot of the computer to which for example HP's generally show HP logo at boot on computers before the OS is loaded. The logo was written to the BIOS, and initially reading the blue screen I was curious if it was the splash screen of the HP logo which then hands off the boot to the hard drive. The good thing is that it sounds like your hardware is healthy and for some reason your installation got corrupt. If the image is a healthy image you should be all set when that COMPLETES. Just wanted to clarify what the splash screen is even though it no longer applies to troubleshooting this. Quote from: DaveLembke on January 06, 2018, 01:44:22 PM

Looks like you should be successful if the image is a good one and not corrupt.

Regarding splash screen, its the screen at POST, at boot of the computer to which for example HP's generally show HP logo at boot on computers before the OS is loaded. The logo was written to the BIOS, and initially reading the blue screen I was curious if it was the splash screen of the HP logo which then hands off the boot to the hard drive. The good thing is that it sounds like your hardware is healthy and for some reason your installation got corrupt. If the image is a healthy image you should be all set when that completes. Just wanted to clarify what the splash screen is even though it no longer applies to troubleshooting this.

Hello
I have a gigabyte ga-ex58ud4p motherboard and I want to buy a graphic CARD gigabyte GeForce Gtx 1060 g1 gaming 3g.
I would like to ask you if the graphic card have compatibility issues or performance issues with the motherboard(because this motherboard is an old model and the graphic card is a new model)
Thank you1st thing you should CHECK is your PSU...it may not be up to the task...SEEMS the 10 series cards are supported by your motherboard from Bios Version f6 and above. If you have an EARLIER Bios you may need to do a bios update to get the 1060 to display.
It won't damage the card to try it first, then if it doesn't work PUT the original card back in and try the bios update.It's also important to be sure you have enough RAM to do what you want.

Windows 7 and a 3TB internal hdd is a bit frustrating, Its ok if you use it in a usb case, but when you try to put it into the pc itself it ____accumulating data, so there i am with 3tb of data that needs to be rescued. Anyone knows a software that could make it pop back into place on the same drive it actually is without having to find another empty 3tb drive to EXPORT it into?your chances of data recovery drop significantly if the drive to be rescued is in use.
that low CHANCE drops even closer to zero if you use the same drive as both source and target.
you are overwriting the very files you are trying to recover with the files just recovered.

and as frustrating as it is, please watch the language - little kiddies may be nearby. 

I think more explanation on this 3TB is in order, like, why do you move it to & from its external caddy?
when you put it into the PC, is it a 'slave'?
what are the BIOS settings for the drives?
does Win7 detect the drive at all?
what's the drives age and SMART data?When companies like Seagate and Western Digital started supplying external drives over 2 Tb they needed to do conversion in the usb to sata adapter to allow the widest compatibility with different windows versions.
Which means once the drive has data it needs to be read with the drive in the en closer. 
So to answer your question, no there is no way to convert a 3tb hard drive from a usb en closer if it is not supported by windows meaning it needs the usb to sata board to do the translation . The only way is to set up another drive under windows as GPT and copy the data.
   
     Source ? ?Patio: 2 second google search but didn't want to post something like this as it WOULD confuse most people.

 http://goughlui.com/2013/10/02/experiment-usb-to-sata-bridge-chips-and-2tb-drives/

Sorry but it does not mean at all that the HDD has to be in it's original enclosure to perform disk level processes in order to get it to work...the "bridge" as he refers to is part of the HDD...not any enclosure.If you don't feel like reading the whole thing the conclusion really says it all.

Thanks very much James for alerting me to this issue that I had subconsciously known of, but hadn't DETERMINED and verified experimentally. This issue is definitely important for anyone with 3Tb or greater external drives – you won’t be able to remove the drive and plug it into a desktop computer and mount it directly. It would be best to bring it to another identical bridge chip just in case other chips have other ideas about how the translation should be done.

I hope this clears this for you Patio. Regards LM


I did read the whole thing...

Quote

This 4K translation CAN be undone. Say your bridge died, you extract the drive and plug it to a native SATA port, and all you can see is a mangled MBR? Well, all you need is to rebuild the MBR to match the proper drive geometry (converting to GPT is a must if the drive is >=2TiB!). This can done with free tools like Testdisk – I wrote a forum post about that: http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=117&t=1832 – and yes, the filesystem does not seem to care about the underlying block size, hence that’s why I was able to mount it with no data loss/corruption. All you need to do is to look for lost partitions and rebuild the MBR/GPT accordingly. *censored*, you should be able to do so if you plug your drive to a 4K-translating bridge too!
Reply

My son says his video card is broken because is works only at the slowest setting possible. 

I recently MOVED his computer and locked it in my office.  He said that MOVING it is what broke it.  Is this possible?

I've been ASKING him to power off his pc and remove the video card then reinsert it.  It is possible that it has shaken lose from its seat. 

Is he correct that moving a large gaming computer can break the video card?  I didn't drop it at all.

Re-seating it is a GOOD idea...i doubt you broke it.

Make sure all power is dis-connected.

Also if it's online games the connection speed may be what is slow...Another thing to check is that the MONITOR is in fact plugged into the graphics card not the motherboard graphics.

Does a battery powered tablet operating off my house WiFi router need a clean backup electric supply, ie a backup generator with an inverter? I can see where a desktop plugged into a wall outlet would require an inverter, but not sure about the tablet. Thanks.

Edit.  Think I asked the wrong question. Seems like the important spec is THD, just like the OLD days with stereo equipment. So, any sensitive electronic would want no more than 5% THD. I assume a tablet operating off battery power does not see or care about THD. But, the WiFi router might?THD..., clean electricity supply..., inverters... - all useful if connecting straight to the mains outlet.
anything else that converts mains power into lower volts/amps for devices such as laptops, tablets, router/modems etc already has this covered by their little black lump of plastic at the end of the cord - the power regulator.I agree with Mark on this. The power supply adapter for the tablet that converts AC of one voltage to DC  of another is pretty rugged at cleaning up power to the device thats plugged into it. 

I would suggest a power strip with SURGE suppression between generator and power supply adapter to device. Most generators are GOOD at conditioning the AC output however most dont make a clean sine wave like 60Hz AC in USA. Most make an output that resembles a rippled square wave, and this can be a problem for inductive devices like induction motors that do far better on a clean sine wave.

Battery backups ( aka UPS's ) dont like to be connected to a generator. I learned this by during a power outage I had my desktop computer powered through battery backup which was powered from my 4800 watt generator and the battery backup kept clicking to the switch over to battery at about once relay click per second as the battery backup didnt like this non sine wave output and it kept correcting for it to the desktop computer. Powering my desktop computer directly through a power strip the desktop computer was fine on the somewhat square waved 120VAC. But if the generator ran out of gas it would be like a power outage to the desktop computer, so i decided to use my laptop instead where it has a battery that it can run off of if the generator shuts off for about 1.5 hours if needed.

That said, they do make generators with a clean sine wave but they are costly! The general generators out there are pretty much pretty good and safe to use as long as your not powering induction motors off of them in which you might get lucky and the motor runs fine as well as you might find that the saw your trying to run isnt happy without a true sine wave AC source.Modern AC generators have very clean output.
This link below will help clear up any confusion.
http://yamahaef2000is.com/conventional_generator_vs_inverter_generator.html

Inverts vary in quality and power levels. Some are dirty output.
Automotive alternators can be used to generate AC. The hard part is GETTING the frequency right on 60 Hz.

The is no evidence that tablets a end smartphone perform poorly on any power adapters. The power requirements oar very low when compared to normal laptops

Hi,

I have an OLD computer I want to get some old pictures off.

The computer started, crackled, smelt funny and now won't start.

I only have a macbook pro now, is there a way to connect a sata internal drive to it without taking it apart? Like a sata to usb/firewire adapater or something?

I'll also have to power the hard drive somehow wouldn't I?

ThanksYou can buy an empty external hard drive enclosure and place your drive into it, then as long as the hard drive is healthy and not encrypted then you will have access to your data again by connecting this to a healthy computer to access files from.

They also sell drive docks if you don't want to permanently install into a case which can take 2 or more DRIVES. Price tag is between $20 and $50.Alternitavely you can remove the HDD from it's enclosure and connect it internally in any Desktop PC to retrieve data... Quote from: DaveLembke on January 21, 2018, 06:47:12 AM

You can buy an empty external hard drive enclosure and place your drive into it, then as long as the hard drive is healthy and not encrypted then you will have access to your data again by connecting this to a healthy computer to access files from.

They also sell drive docks if you don't want to permanently install into a case which can take 2 or more drives. Price tag is between $20 and $50.

Hey all, I just finished my pc build, I turned on the pc first time it booted, but I forgot to plug in the pci-e cable to the gpu. So I turned off the computer, plugged in a 8 pin pci to the gpu, red power light on gpu turned to white, hit the power button on the case, the computer flashed as if it tried to start and then everything went dead, now I can’t get it to boot at all. I even tried to boot it with the gpu unplugged and CLEARED cmos and still nothing. I tested the psu OUTSIDE the pc and it works fine. I tried only plugging the mobo and cpu into the psu and still wont fire up. I’m starting to think my mobo is fried. Has anybody had this problem before? Thanks.

Specs: CPU- I5 8600k
GPU- Asus ROG strix 1080
PSU- Corsair 750w
Memory- 16gb 3000mhz
MOBO- MSI Z370 gaming plusTry removing the card and see if it works proper...Hi it is unlikely anything is damaged.

when you say "wont fire up" do you mean the power supply isn't turning on or there is no video ?
First THING to check is the power switch at the rear of the power supply is turned on.
This is important.
If it isn't powering up then disconnect all power TO the power supply so disconnect the MAINS lead , wait for a few minutes .
Then as Patio said remove the 1080 card and disconnect the power from the card.

See if the computer powers up. If it does check it is displaying at least with the on board graphics using the dvi port.
Now check the managed cable is the one supplied with the power supply for pcie and it is connected correctly at the power supply.
If so then try the computer with the 1080 with the pcie cable plugged in this time. It's unlikely it can be reversed but check in the video card manual for the correct orientation of the power plug.
All steps should be done with the power switch on the power supply turned off.   

If it still isn't starting can you POST some pictures of YOUR build to check out the motherboard mounting etc.

Hi all

So i have this Toshiba POS system that i bought from an auction. Now the problem is this: this system (toshiba st-c10) has an internal printer that is attached directly to the motherboard.

The only thing is that i can’t install this printer because: 1) I don’t know which DRIVER to install, 2) When the system is on, and i connect/disconnect the internal printer the system doesn’t react, 3) If i want to add a printer MANUALLY, i have to SELECT the port on which the printer is attached and I don’t know which one this is.

Images:
https://imgur.com/a/I7t9j

Any help very much appreciated!

Thanks
From what I can find, It connects via USB- All the manuals for it provide instructions that SPECIFY to select USB options. If it is not detected it may have FAILED, which could be why it was ended up being sold.

I have a 16 gb flash drive that had many files. Somehow, something happened to it when I was  reinstalling win 7 in a dual setup. For some reason i have left it plugged in during that PROCESS...i did NOTICE a fast moving message that mentioned something about my FD, but could not read it in time...the message passed by as quick as a wink. later i noticed that when I did replug it, i couldn't get a read on it, no matter what i do. The only way i can see it is through disk management, and its shown there as a removable disk, and as a complete blank. With the mouse I cannot do any functions..partitioning, formatting and etc.  so i do not know if its possible. Without windows explorer acknowledging it, I cannot even see if i could copy or send a file to it. For all i know, all of my previous folders and files may STILL be on it...but at this stage i don't care about them anymore..i just want to 'save
 that drive.  Is there any hope?So in disk management you cannot rite clik it and format ? ?Have you tried this thumb drive on another computer to see if you get better results. I had a picky 4GB Transcend thumb drive once that wouldnt mount on a new build but was able to mount on an older build. All other drives worked with no problems. Even tried using a port in back of PC instead of in the FRONT, which i am guessing you have tried using a port in back of computer if a desktop computer to eliminate the port as the problem.


However unable to even wipe it clean and format it indicates that it might be toast. They can just die unpredictably. Since around 2005 I have had 5 of them fail out of the about 40 that i have owned. One of them I was able to read data from but unable to write to, others mounted and showed improper capacity, or didnt mount at all. Quote from: patio on January 14, 2018, 01:00:47 PM

So in disk management you cannot rite clik it and format ? ?

Permanently deleted files on USB flash drives, pen drives, memory cards and HDD/SSD, for example, using shift delete, can be effectively retrieved using third-party data recovery software. EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard as a free piece of file recovery software allows people to recover permanently deleted files and folders on any type of storage devices only in two steps.

Built it 2 weeks ago, and around a week ago my PC randomly freezes, forcing me to hard power off. Clearing the CMOS can sometimes give me a couple freeze-free hours, so I did it like usual. This time, I am getting no display after clearing it like usual. I asked the PCMR discord about the random freezing, and they said it's probably my motherboard.
Specs:Ryzen 3 1200, stock clock right now, I did try to OC it but it got to around 80C so I got scared and turned it off and cleared CMOS, and another time I_______and put it 2.4V for 0-10 seconds.
GTX 1050 Ti OC edition, never overclocked it though after my bad CPU OC experience
2x4gb 3000Mhz RAM: Tried to put it in XMP but had some problems, so it's at stock
Mobo:Asrock AB350M Pro4 googled it, and apparently other people have had problems with this freezing. If there is any hardware I need to return because it was defective out of the box, it's probably this.
PSU: CX 450 2017
Storage: WD 1TB 7200RPM, I have windows 10(without a key) on it
misc:case is spec-04 if it matters, also have TP LINK WDN 4800 if that makes a difference
I tried to swap the RAM sticks, USED 1 stick, swapped it, put 2 back in, same results
any help would be very much appreciated
;-;
Edit: The freezing happened after the 2.4V, and PCMR has now said it sounds the voltage fried it. Just CAME here to be sure. Any other way to go about this other than buying a new CPU?
Edit 2: Don't know how to update my BIOS and am pretty sure that won't help, if I really should try it before doing anything else, please notify me. My current plan is to RMA the mobo and if it still doesn't work I'll buy another R3 1200.Keep it clean...we have Members od all ages here...do you know if ASROCK still warranties their mobo's if overclocked?
my knowledge is years old, but when OC'ing was all the flavour I seem to recall the manufactures basically said 'OC at your own risk'.Did you in fact replace the CMOS battery > ? ?Hi

Checking over the parts of your computer everything should work, there is no need to update the bios, your CPU has been supported with all bios versions for your motherboard. The power supply is a little close to the minimum but should still work I probably would have brought a higher wattage of one of the TX-m series. 
So the first thing to try if the computer is powering up but not displaying, that you haven't left the clear cmos clear jumper on. Then  disconnect the 2 motherboard power connectors and wait for about 5 minutes ( you do have both the connectors connected to disconnect?).
Then reset the cmos again with the jumper. This will ensure that all the over clock settings are deleted. then make sure the power connections are re connected and are completely in the sockets.
If the computer still doesn't power up  at all remove your video card and  try using the on board video.
If still not working it is most likely the Motherboard is faulty not the CPU.
And a new motherboard is cheaper and easier to resell than a CPU so would be the next thing to to replace.
As to the computer not being stable is the  CPU heat sink mounted correctly, is the heat sink getting warm when the computer is running?. If not you may need to remount the heat sink this should only be NECESSARY if you have removed the heat sink since first mounting.
It's always a good idea to get the computer set up and working reliably for 2 or 3 weeks before ATTEMPTING over clocking . These days with computers being so FAST I wouldn't bother for the small increase in speed to over clock.
You might see an improvement in speed without over clocking with  a Licensed copy of  Windows 10 and an SSD. 
     

Hi guys, I am currently using a Sennheiser PC 363D and have recently started using a Sound Blaster Audigy 5/Rx but I have noticed while gaming that the actual surround sound is amazing but it also sounds distant at the same time and I can't find any fixes for it?I know this will be vague but it may get you started or maybe looking in the right section, but I had a similar 'distant sound' years ago only when playing music and I had to turn off one the SoundBlaster's features like surround sound or bass boost or something like that.

never did get a proper resolution as that machine was replaced before SB brought out any driver update.
but you can also start with checking your drivers too.
Can only echo what Mark said- definitely check around in the Sound Blaster Control Panel.

Something to try is to set the SB card to stereo mode not 7.1 mode. Then have the headphones do the conversion to 7.1 audio.
If the above doesn't change anything. Turn off Dolby on the sound card. Actually, thinking about it- That seems to be pretty likely.

I've found my system (I also have a CREATIVE Audio card) will reset the Speakers to 7.1 after a driver update and it causes very odd audio effects and sounding "far away" is one WAY I'd describe them. In fact, I was going to post recommendations of that sort but the way mine is setup I leave my headphones plugged in all the time and switch to it with the control panel, so in my mind I was thinking that headphone output wasn't possible with 7.1 enabled. But of course that isn't the case- It's just how I'm using it. I could just as easily plug my headphones into my headphone jack directly with an adapter (it's a large TRS connector which the breakout module supports) , at which point 5.1 or 7.1 or whatever will be "active" with the headphones, rather than the dedicated headphones mode.BOOM.... Dolby.... that was it.
(thank you VintronNZ, that rang a massive bell in the old memory banks)Coincidentally, I had a strange audio problem over the last day or so (since a Windows Update). It didn't sound echoey or distance but was markedly different and seemed, just different altogether. I'd checked my audio card SETTINGS and everything was in order so I assumed I was just imagining things because of this very thread.

I just happened to, just now, click on the speaker in the notification area and notice that my active audio device wasn't my audio card, but My video card- it sounded different because it was being routed to my monitor which means it sounds QUITE different from my sound system.

I mention it because if you are using DisplayPort or HDMI with your monitor you could very well have had the active audio device change to point at your monitor and the "distant" EFFECT could be a combination of the smaller speaker size as well as being "muffled" through the display bezel.

Hi guys.

I am pretty new to this whole computer universe, and as such, most of my knowledge comes from a lot of research over the last two weeks.
I am looking for help and suggestions with a pc build that a friend of mine has helped me put TOGETHER using pcpartpicker.

The setup I am looking for in a pc, is for it to be used primarily for gaming at 1440p ultra settings, while also being able to handle 4K, if I happen to buy such a monitor.
Games that I like to play include: Playerunknown's Battlegrounds, War for the overworld, GTA 5, Fallout 4, World of Warcraft and many of the latest triple A titles.
I am also interested in 3D modeling and animating, as well as having future plans for live streaming.


The setup so far is this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3HzcQV
Notes: I am set on the CPU, as I know it's the leading one for gaming, as well as having the threads for more requiring tasks than just gaming.

CPU Cooler: This is one of the areas where I am not too sure. I've heard from many sources that the Kraken x62 and rev 2 version is overkill, and that for lowered noise, I shouldn't go for water cooling. Personally, I would prefer no water cooling at all, but here is the dilemma: What can you guys recommend for a really good cpu cooler? I am under the impression that the be quiet! Dark Pro 3 is the one for me, but I am not sure if it can fit the build etc. Suggestions are very welcome here!

Mobo: This one is pretty much a dead-set for me also. I don't WANT wifi at all, as I only game using ethernet cable anyway. Is it true that mobo's have integrated sound cards, and if so, is the one in this exact motherboard good for sound details when using a headset?

RAM: This TOPIC is also a little bit tricky for me. I know I want at least 16gb of total RAM, but honestly, with the other interests I have than gaming, I would honestly prefer to aim for 32gb total. With that said, I read nothing but mixed opinions on the whole 2x16 vs. 4x8gb stick solution? RGB on my RAM is not a requirement at all, as long as the price is fair, and the quality is good. Suggestions are very much welcome here!

Storage: The two listed on the build setup is partly placeholders. My idea was to spent a bit more, and get the Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive as my sole and only internal storage drive. Is it not true, that most people use an SSD + HDD combo due to economics? Is having just ONE internal storage drive a bad idea? I won't need more than 1TB internally, as I will use an external SSD or HDD drive for backup and extra storage. The main idea for an m.2 SSD is to have it split into two drives; one for the OS and the other for games and apps. I usually don't have much more than 5 games installed at a time, but I want as fast reading and writing capabilites as possible.

GPU: This one is a certain for me too.

Case: I am totally open for suggestions here. I have come to understand that many of my components is the 'ATX' thing, and unless a full tower has noticeably better airflow and lowered temperature, I wanna go with a Mid Tower. The one on the list is a placeholder, as I am more interested in the design of: NZXT - H440 (Green/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case. Sadly, I am not very knowing when it comes to cases that will have good airflow, temperatures, space for the components and its compability. Please take the H440 green / black as inspiration, as those colors are my whole theme! :-)
Sidenote: Do I have to buy seperate fans for the case, or will those come with them in the package?

PSU: Here I am at a hold also. I was told by my friend, that for 650W ones, Platinum is the best, and the very one in my partpicker list is currently the best money can buy. True or? Suggestions welcome!

OS: Windows 10 home 64bit is, as far as I know, the best OS for gaming and my other interests. Pro is for work and educational purposes mostly, yes?


Some general questions and notes: I would very much prefer to have just the Asus Aura Sync as my RGB show controller. RGB on every single component with it as an option isn't a must for me. My color theme is, as said above, lime / neon green and black. As said earlier, I want the case to be spacious and compatible with all the components on my list (or those you guys suggest), and have space / specs for physical and overclocking expansions later on.
Just, overall, I want a gaming beast with future proofness, overclock possibilites and being able to handle 1440p at ultra settings like a breeze. On that note, I am much open to Monitor (1440p 144Hz), gaming mouse and keyboard. I was thinking the Razer Mamba Tournament Edition for my mouse.

Thanks in advance!! :-D
Not to speak for others but I suspect that few members are "hardcore gamers", certainly not anywhere near what is represented by your current build components- nor even most of your desired use case. I'm not even close but I'm sure there are general options and advice that can be provided even if I'm not "hardcore"

I'll ignore the CPU since it is "set".

Regarding CPU Coolers, The 8700K looks to run hot enough that you cannot overclock with an air cooler. I was going to recommend the Hyper 212 Evo I have installed in my current system to overclock a 4770K but the 8700K apparently idles at nearly the same temperature as my 4770K get's under load with it based on other user reports I've found.

Air cooling will be fine if you just want to remain at the stock speed though that does sort of defeat the purpose of a K chip. (Not I'm a stranger to that myself- I didn't overclock my 4770K until around a year ago and I built this system in 2014!) Otherwise, you'll have to go liquid cooling. I've never used a liquid cooler though so I cannot offer any advice on that one. An All-in-One solution is obviously easier to manage than trying to use a loop kit, though.

Motherboards have had integrated audio circuitry for a while. You can see the Audio connectors on the motherboard in ASUS's marketing pictures. On-board motherboard audio has been sufficient for a while. If nothing else I'd say you should at least give it a try and see if it works. If not, I'd personally recommend whatever ASUS Xonar card fits in your desired price range.

For RAM, what I always suggest is to get as much as you can fit into your initial build- but if you cannot "max out" the memory, do so in a way that doesn't prevent you from upgrading later or make it more costly. My 2008 Build had 8GB of RAM but I bought it as 4 2GB sticks in order to afford it. This meant that down the line when I considered upgrading to the maximum of 16GB, I would have had to buy 4 brand new 4GB sticks- and by that time those sticks were expensive and I simply couldn't justify it for what was at that point an "old computer". I took that lesson to this PC, so when I put it together it had 16GB, but instead of 4 4GB sticks in the 4 slots, I only populated 2 slots with 8GB each. This allowed me to rather easily upgrade to 32GB later on, by just buying two more of the same memory sticks. No waste! This approach *could* affect performance but- at least personally- I prefer a tiny performance penalty over having to buy a whole new set of RAM later on and then discard the old ones  that I paid good money for. The impact is usually pretty small anyway. Of course you may prefer that approach in which case just be mindful of the trade-off.

I'd say that yes, the main reason for separate SSD and HDD drives in a system is economics- SSD drives are more expensive for the same storage, so it is typical to have an SSD drive and then another larger HDD drive. If you THINK 1TB will be fine, I don't see a reason to go for a secondary drive. Besides- if you do find that you were incorrect and you want more storage, you can just buy it and install it at that point.

Case IMO it's hard to go wrong with cases unless you intentionally look for the lowest bidder. The larger vendors like NZXT, Fracta Design, Corsair, etc tend to do a good job and any issues tend to be minor nitpicks about them. As far as airflow is concerned, IMO that is going to be mostly up to how well wires and other things are routed within the case than anything about the case itself. And how well you can route cables can depend just as much on the motherboard sometimes as the case. The NZXT looks to have features for routing cables nicely.

PSU: that Power Supply *should* work. I usually just guess at a good rating and hope for the best, personally. From what I can find 650 should be plenty.

Regarding OS, I use the Pro version because it provides a lot of additional control over aspects like Windows Update. For example I have my own system(s) configured to only notify me when there are updates (via Group Policies)- I have to actually start the updates  myself, and they never install automatically. This feature isn't available in the Home Edition. (There are some WORKAROUNDS but being that I use Pro I've not needed to look into them). it is rather common to find people complaining about forced Windows 10 reboots for updates and Pro allows you to mitigate it but Home provides very limited options in that regard.It looks like a great system. The changes I'd suggest is to go with at least a 750 Watt PSU and start with 16GB of RAM and see if it's enough for your needs. DDR4 is still very expensive. I have 16 GBs and it works fine for me.Hi guys. Tthanks for the input, suggestions and help! :-) Sorry for the late response!

I've revised and upgraded my build; and as always, looking for suggestions. I would only like to ask for some suggestions for stuff like same specifications RAM (but without RGB), a cheaper cpu cooler that will work just as great, and if you guys have other ''downgrades'' where the price to performance is justified: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Scrancher/saved/2RcPsY

Also, what 1440p 144Hz monitor would you suggest?I appreciate you are looking at RGB colour but perhaps the saving on memory will be worth considering,

These Crucial modules are cheaper and arguable more stable, Crucial - 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory for $307.00

Also placing all your storage to a 1TB M2 drive although very fast is perhaps not the best option.

Say do a mix of drives a 500GB M2 for the software and windows. And a large storage drive for backups and less used stuff.

Perhaps this M2  Crucial MX300 525GB M.2 Type 2280SS Internal SSD which is $149.00

And a Seagate https://www.seagate.com/au/en/products-syndication-only/internal-hard-drives/barracuda-pro/  capacity 4 tb or 6 tb.

As far as the other parts, if they are in your budget price then they look fine. Hi VintronNZ, and thank you for your reply!

Could I get you to update the partpicker list with your suggestions, and link it here? Thanks!I'm not registered on parts picker. This is the link https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8hkZ4C
You can add the items.

Crucial - 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Crucial - MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Seagate - BarraCuda Pro 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Also consider changing the CPU to this one: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor. Using the air cooling to start with, when everything is working then install the liquid cooler (if you need it).

Hello guys i'm really getting confused about the these components on the motherboard of nowadyas COMPUTERS please can u light me out Huhh ? ?khaled07  is very new here.
Welcome to CH, the BEST place to get free advice.
About REGISTERS  and caches.
Neither registers nor chases are available to the general user.
There is a command to clear the DNS chance, but it now is ALMOST useless.

If you think the motherboard is not working well, you will need to read over the documents t for your computer. Each m,motherboard is a LITTLE different.

Can you describe any problems you have with your  computer?
What make and model number?  Is this a homework or school question?there are no registers or caches on the motherboard.
both of those terms are software related.

perhaps you mean resistors and memory?Registers have always been on the CPU. Cache Memory used to be on the Motherboard but has been integrated into the CPU die for a number of years now.

Hi,
I'm using a Hp 17-f067nf laptop with an Intel INTEGRATED Graphic card and an Nvidia 840m as a dedicated 3d gpu. 8go of ram, 1tb of Hdd

Long story short:
I wanted to uninstall my gpu DRIVER to roll it back and i accidentally uninstalled the gpu itself in the device manager and now it doesnt appears even after restarting the computer.

i tried rebooting, updating bios, downloading Hp Driver, multiple restart, using DDU on safe mode and uninstall the Intel gpu Driver... nothing works.
I checked the laptop entirely, opened every part that i could (except the gpu 'cause it's glued) and nothing was damaged, i even removed the cmos battery and put it back on, system restore is no longer an option cause the ddu point is no longer available.

On the other hand i've noticed in the device manager that the Intel 8 Series PCI Express Root Port #5 appears to be disconnected and when i look into the exact same computer (my brother has the exact same one) the nvidia 840m is on the #5 Port..

In the end i'm stuck with an uninstalled gpu who was working perfectly fine so far (like 10 min prior to the rollback).

-ManuI would reinstall ALL laptop drivers...chipset 1st....reboot...then all others.Okaaay,
so i've reinstalled every drivers after chipset/+reboot, i've checked and the nvidia 840m still doesnt appear, i've updated the (now newly installed) drivers and it DIDNT changed anything too. Can you share a screenshot of device manager and at Display Adapter  click on the [> to have it show whats listed here?Hi,
I'm french so the list is also in french but i think it's still understandable...


I've also sorted by connections and i've activated the hidden device:



If you have any questions just ask...

If you enter the Laptop's BIOS screens during boot, you should be able to reset them to defaults (Not optimized defaults, if the option is there). I've found instances where other users have reported success with the same type of issue (Dedicated graphics chip not visible after being uninstalled)Hi,
Unfortunatly i can only "set the bios to default" by pressing F9 and it didnt changed anything again :/

Last time i only updated the bios instead of flashing it tho, so maybe i could reset it that way?
After you press F9 to default it you press F10 to"save changes and exit"...

Otherwise nothin changes.

PS...i hope you used laptop drivers...and not Intel/nVidia ones...Yep i did save the changes

And Yes i took all of the downloads from the official HP website, i even tried with the ones backed up on the pc :/Quick update:
I managed to use a backup of the registry that was 2-3 weeks old

It brought back the hidden 3d video controller but it was still considered as "disconnected" (code 45)

Considering that it was making a lot of problems like wifi, desktop messed up i reverted back to the original registry
K so today i tried another dozen of different stuff, i re-re-flashed the bios, i did everything i knew so far...

I HATE to ask this but do you think my gpu might be dead ?
I'm more and more considering this option, which is really strange considering i was playing perfectly 5 min before i lost it.
If it's k.i.a i'm in a deep sh*t cause i dont have 1200 bucks to throw in a pc
No...backup your important data and do a clean install...

Have you put in a Help ticket at HP as of yet ? ?Yeah i had a 1tb external Hdd as a personal gift 2 weeks before the crash... i was too lazy to backup the whole thing :/
I'm gonna do some kind of cloning or so...

And yeah i asked HP, they more or less said "Hi, thanks for asking us, considering your problem contact our customer support" the thing is, their customer support isnt cheap and even if i wanted to pay it only apply to less than 3 years old product or with HpCare.Use their Forums then...Actually they told me to contact their support directly through their forum :/

I am hard on keyboards. I need a replacement about every two years. Either I break something,or the letters rub off.

Sometime ago a few users wanted keyboards with e built-in USB hub. Well, the idea did catch on. Now a number of firms make them.

See non Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/U473D-Slim-Multimedia-Keyboard-Port/dp/B004Y0ILC6

New Keyboards have USB hub, but this review ignores the topic!. 
https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2380376,00.asp

And you can just DIY! 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f5eixa400A
This video is worth  watching  just for  the fun. 

My questions are:
Do these really work? 
Do you have one and why do you like or not?Guy at work has a keyboard with 2 USB ports on it to daisy chain other devices off of. It can also work for connecting a thumb drive I suppose, but he uses it as 1 connection back to the PC and then his mouse plugs into 1 of the 2 ports and this way the cord doesnt have to reach all the way to the computer in the floor.

Myself I wouldnt want to have a keyboard with extra stuff hanging off its sides or back of it as for I TEND to have things that come to rest on the keyboard occasionally from a stack of stuff that slides and comes to rest against the keyboard to my hands that occasionally rest on either side of the keyboard that could BUMP and damage a USB port with something plugged into them.

Myself I have a USB 2.0 HUB and it has a 5 volt power supply so that I dont have to worry about too many devices pulling too heavily on a single USB ports power. The HUB is located under my display where nothing will strike the plugs to break the USB ports.

As far as if they work. They do, but whether they are a suitable match for each user it all depends on the users work area and if they will find devices and extra cords hanging off a keyboard to be annoying. I wouldnt trust it to power anything through the USB port other than thumb drives. a 2.5" external hard drive for example that most are powered directly thru USB 5 volt power I wouldnt trust the daisy chain through keyboard to be able to carry enough current for its data safe operation.

Myself when it comes to keyboards. I found a liking to the HP Business Class Black and Grey Keyboards that HP mass produced that are very good keyboards, rugged for lots of heavy use and they have the feel of legacy 104 clicky-keyboards when typing which I prefer. I ended up buying 10 of them off of ebay for $57 ( $5.70 per keyboard ) about 9 years ago and I have gone through 2 of them with 8 brand new in boxes in my attic. Only problem is that they are PS2 connection type and so at some point I will probably have to GET USB to PS2 adapters to connect to systems that are USB only connectivity like I ALREADY ran into with a Dell that I own.

Also I saw somewhere where they make stickers that you can add to keyboards to add the letters back after they wear off. Myself I dont need to hunt for keys so I use then well beyond printed letters wearing off, but when a key fails to take input from user or shift key starts to get stuck and make everything caps thats when they keyboard gets retired and a new one installed. The first keyboard I got 5 years out of and then the keys started to act up and I tossed it. It was heavily worn and wasnt worth trying to fix when I have new ones. This 2nd one I have used for last 4 years and no problems yet but a strong wear pattern in most commonly used keys and heavy wear mark in plastic of spacebar where I favor using my right thumb for spaces so spacebar looks brand new on the left corner and heavy polish gloss on the right.

Before buying any keyboards unless you had a specific model before to like it like I have, you can look at the user reviews and thats usually a good basis for what is good and what to avoid. I rarely buy anything that doesnt have user reviews unless its cheap enough to take the risk of buying junk and if its junk no big loss.You used Myself 4 times in that Post...Macintosh COMPUTERS have included USB ports on the Keyboard (At least I think they still do) since the iMac G3. In fact the iMac G3 was largely designed for the mouse to plug into the keyboard.

I don't think they were as widespread with Windows/Linux/etc. PCs because by the time they were commonplace peripherals, systems had USB Ports easily accessible on the front of the system.

They do exist, of course. You can even find high-end "Mechanical" keyboards which feature them, such as some of those manufactured by DAS Keyboard Though they certainly lighten the wallet,  especially the ones with the more ridiculous options, and some of their blurbs sound like  the ramblings of that goofball from GRC.com ("psycho-acoustic experience" isn't far from "magneto-dynamic physics models" in terms of marketing gobbledy-gook IMO)

I want the ability to print from my wifi connected laptop. I'm using a WD N900 router with 2 USB ports. I've tried connecting the PRINTER to the router but I don't see it with either of my 2 computers. The only way I can print at present is to directly connect it to either my desktop computer or my laptop. What do I have to CONFIGURE in the router to be able to print from both computers. I've set up a home network and can access files from either computer but have had no luck on the printing front. Printer software is installed in both computers. Laptop OS - Win 10 Pro, Desktop PC OS - Win 10 Home both 64 bit. Thanks in advance for any help that anyone can give me.What printer ? ?Canon Pixma MG2420.Start Here...I guess I wasn't clear enough with my original question. My printer has NO Wifi ability. I'm assuming I can plug the printer into the router with a USB cable and be able to access it with both computers. Maybe I assume this incorrectly?If the printer isnt wireless it dont matter what you connect it to...So for clarification a NON-Wifi enabled printer is unable to be used as a network printer?It can be a network printer...just not wirelessly
OK! How do I SEND print jobs from all of my home computers to a Canon Pixma MG 2420 printer over a home network using a WD N900 router. What connections do I have to make & what configuring do I have to perform if any on my router? Thanks.Read the Manual...if you dont have it any longer it's available from Canon online... Quote from: Term_ite on January 17, 2018, 07:39:21 PM

I'm assuming I can plug the printer into the router with a USB cable and be able to access it with both computers. Maybe I assume this incorrectly?

What router do you have?  If the router has a built-in print server you may be able to connect the printer to the router and then print to it from any computer on the network, wired or wireless.

All that already stated and dealt with.

Maybe, maybe not. This printer is not a network printer. It only has USB connectivity. WD N900 is part of the My Net range of routers and can run WD Print Share software, which needs to be installed and configured, and also the printer needs to be compatible. There is a WD page which lists supported printers. Yours isn't one of them. "Supported printers" could just mean "Printers that WD has tested", so it may be worth a try. WD Print share is on the CD you got with the router or you can download it. If you cannot get it to work, you could try searching or enrolling in the My Net Networking Devices forum pages at  WD.com.

Thank you so much for a knowledgeable & MOST MEANINGFUL answer. Thank you for the links. After reading your post it took me all of 5 minutes to discover that unfortunately my printer is not supported.

Hi. Today i CHECKED my event viewer and found some weird errors from 21.01.2018 :

A spam of:
WHEA Event ID 19 CPU-corrected hw error

And only one :
WHEA Event ID 47 memory-corrected hw error


Here are screen with one of them:





This day i remember i finished installing Windows 10. And system was completely on idle overnight.

Errors starts showing on IDLE in event logs in 3 a.m and finished at 3 at noon. After that errors stops showing.

Errors was only in 21 january. From 22 january till today no errors in event viewer,i checking now all days.

And i dont know why this errors happened in this day?

Computer is:
8700K stock, MTE on, 4700mhz auto clock
Asus Z370 Pro Gaming
16GB DDR 3000MHZ ( XMP ON)
Gtx 1080 Ti Aorus
Corsair 750 Rmi
SSD Crucial 525GB
HDD TOSHIBA 500GB
Windows 10 clean install 1709 Creator Fall Update

All settings in UEFI are stock,defaulted . Only XMP profile is on.

Temps of cpu fine,temps of GPU fine. Never had any single BSOD. Memtest86 and ihcmemtest no errors. All benchmarks passing, no crashing in games

Only saw that error in event viewer which make think that is STILL something with voltages ? But like i said system is stable,no problems so far. Only that logs i saw during 21.01 day.

I remember i had hibernate/sleep mode TURN ON AFTER 15 minutes during that time when it throws errors. Now i have to NEVER on setting. Maybe that was related?
Last edited by litwicki22; 02-04-2018 at 10:11 AM.

Hey,

So, this is a common problem, I know, but I'm looking for clarification, and for any suggestions.

As the title says, the laptop no longer charges when it is powered on and open. It charges fine when in sleep mode, with the lid closed (and powered on) or when turned off, but not when turned on and open.

Oddly, the laptop sometimes says it is charging for maybe a second or two when first powered up, but then nothing. (It also sometimes randomly indicates it's charging, but I can't reliably recreate the circumstances under which this occurs.)

It's the original cable, no damage, no bent pins or whatever.

Now, here are some things I've tried already:

-Updated drivers, updated BIOS (with the CMD line 'force it' to circumvent the 'cannot update BIOS without AC cable attached' problem)

-Drained battery, fully charged battery WHILST Laptop switched off

-Cleaned battery

-Uninstalled battery drivers, reinstalled

-Checked cable for damage, tears or hotspots

-Tried different power sockets

-Tried various battery settings (from BIOS menu and from Desktop/My Computer)

-Ran system check, registry checker (cmd line: sfc /scannow)

-Did an entire system restore to try to alleviate any registry problems, to no avail (LOST all my programs and apps, for no reason)

I'm running:

Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-6100U [email protected] 2.30GHz 2.30 GHz

64-bit OS, x64-based processor

8.00 RAM

Aside from all that, I can't think of what might be wrong. It's a little odd for me to come down one day to use my laptop, and find that, mysteriously overnight, the cable no longer charges properly.

Any ideas? I'm not really keen on buying a new cable, since it appears to be working fine (since it charges when the laptop is closed or the system is shut down) Part of me WONDERS if some sort of Windows update has buggered up some registry entry, but I have no idea what I'd be looking for, to replace it or to delete invalid entries.

Cheers,

CalThe laptop power SUPPLY might be weak. Or it might not be the original power supply that came with laptop in which its output is too weak to both power the laptop and charge at the same time.

You might be swapping out the power supply with a new one to correct for this.From everything you have tried and not worked it's the charger...

Note : I have seen cheapo generic chargers ruin a perfectly good laptop...so buyer beware.He did no say he was using a cheap generic charger.
Another POSSIBILITY is a dying battery.

If you are running Windows 7 make sure you have all the Windows updates loaded. There was some situations where Windows failed to display that the battery was being charged which was fixed with later updates. Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 05, 2018, 04:02:14 PM

He did no say he was using a cheap generic charger.
Another possibility is a dying battery.

I didn't say he was...i simply warned about doing so...

I have a Dell Dimension E521, Windows Vista Service Pack 2, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+ 2.00 GHz, 1.00 GB RAM, NVIDIA GeForce 6150 LE.  When I bought this PC I upgraded the speakers to a Dell Wireless Speaker System Model #: WL6000, I think the system is about 4 years old.  I'm asking for some help with my speakers.  When I listen to music (Windows Media Player) my speakers emit a static, and it's continuous once it starts, it usually starts after the player has been on for anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour.  When it gets really bad, I can turn the music off and the speakers still emit that loud static sound.  The longer the player is on the worse the static is.  When I tested it with headphones the static is not there, and when I unplug the headphones the static is again present.  The only way to get rid of it is to turn off the speakers for a while and/or restarting the PC.  The louder the music is the worse the static is, I can turn the volume down and it is better but I can't get any distance out of the low volume.  This has only been a problem the last 3 or 4 months.  My PC is in my bedroom, so I play the music on a higher volume to hear it in other parts of the house.  I don't play on max volume, there is still room to go louder.  I was thinking of a new speaker system, but if it's internal I would be wasting money and still have the problem.  I appreciate any input and if I don't have all the info please ask I can see what else I can find out about my PC to aid you.  Help, please!!!  There are a number of tests that you can perform before you spend any money. 1st take the CURRENT speakers and try them on another computer and see the result. Next using a pair of wired speakers attach them to your current computer via the speaker port on your computer. See if the result is an improved performance. I suspect in the final analysis it is going to be a deterioration in the wireless speakers. But do the 2 tests 1st. good luck,truenorth
P.S. How do your wireless speakers connect to your current computer--USB port? If so try changing the port for the transmitter particularly if it is currently in a front port--put it in a rear one.http://www.amazon.com/Dell-WL6000-Surround-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B000JD3D9I   
Usually, it seems to be affect only one "channel": Front L/R, Rear L/R, or Center/Subwoofer. In most cases, the center speaker shares the cable with the subwoofer, but the crackling sound may be out of the subwoofer's range so it isn't heard coming from the sub, only the center speaker.

I wasn't able to find a solution to cure this crackling problem with those speakers. If they're out of warranty, you're likely left with just a few choices: tolerate it, get new wireless speakers, change to wired speakers, or change to wired/wireless headphones.truenorth I think that your advice was great and I was ready to put this thing to the test until I goggled the term "WL6000 crackling" as quaxo had and found all the posts that these speakers have generated.  Seems mine lasted a fairly decent length of time compared to some of the others.  I'm setting my sights on new speakers and will run these on really low volume  until I can find what I want.  So:  Thank You truenorth and Thank You quaxo, I really appreciated your quick and very knowledgeable responses!  Also a BIG thanks to this site, I'm no dummy on the PC but I am far from expert.  It's awesome to be able to use a forum such as this in trying to help ourselves.  As far as I'm concerned my question has been answered and you can close or delete this thread.  Thank you again!!!I am sure that quaxo appreciates your kind words--i know i do. I believe you have chosen a good solution. If i might suggest to help avoid this type of issue in the future do as much research on a product as you can before the purchase to minimize potential problems. Having said that we recently purchased a particular Brother printer (inkjet) that had i researched it (BEFORE) would have seen innumerable problems with the magenta ink cartridge that is NOT repairable. truenorthHi, im new to this forum but i have been having the same problem with my dell wl6000. i had picked them up from a thrift shop and the crackling had already started, i took it upon myself to figure out what was wrong. i disassembled the powered sub-woofer and removed the wireless card (i hadn't gotten the rear speaker anyways) and the noise/static/crackling had stopped. It turns out the wireless chip was being interfered by other signals around the house. Since then they have worked fine, the quality is good and has a pretty loud max volume. hope this helps people  Quote from: TheLoneWonderer on May 17, 2015, 01:34:16 AM

Hi, im new to this forum but i have been having the same problem with my dell wl6000. i had picked them up from a thrift shop and the crackling had already started, i took it upon myself to figure out what was wrong. i disassembled the powered sub-woofer and removed the wireless card (i hadn't gotten the rear speaker anyways) and the noise/static/crackling had stopped. It turns out the wireless chip was being interfered by other signals around the house. Since then they have worked fine, the quality is good and has a pretty loud max volume. hope this helps people 

Greetings CH!

Im really scratching my head over this one, and would like some opinions. I built this machine back 3 years ago (in 2 weeks) and it was intended for basic mail, office, youtube work for my father. A tad overkill but ill mention the specifications below.

He ran windows 7 pro 64 bit until 10 was FORCED on his machine and ran 10 for about a good 8 months before begging for windows 7 back. I installed windows 7 pro again, and added a wireless card as we changed where the router sits. All was well until about last month where he would boot the computer up to find a X through the wireless icon, and a reboot would solve his problem. I found windows had ditched a few other drivers, but not the wifi.

Anyways, I thought it was the wireless card and was prepared to simply replace it, but then another family member infected the machine, so I simply formatted and reloaded windows 7. The install went well, did all its update through the card I thought it was good to go. Same issue comes back. So I tried that wireless card (Linksys WPN600N PCI dual band card) in my personal PC, no problems. I fired in a different PCI card into a different SLOT, and now the card will appear to be fine, but CONTINUOUSLY drop connection claiming "limited or no connection".

The system has had 2 clean install of windows 7 professional 64 bit, 2 different wireless cards that are fine in other units, but not this, and even got a SSD put in. I've updated the BIOS but aside from trying out windows 7 in bios mode, (as its installed in UEFI right now) and trying windows 10, im completely out of ideas. I have 2 weeks left on the boards warranty.

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

Specs:
Asus H97 - PLUS MOTHERBOARD
4gb Kingston DDR3 RAM
intel i5 4620 quad core CPU
240gb Kingston V300 SSD Hi

You did load the motherboard drivers when you re installed windows ? If not they are available here 

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/H97PLUS/HelpDesk_Download/

You need the "Intel CHIPSET Driver"  to great PCI cards working correctly.Of course I loaded chipset drivers. How else would have this machine run for the past 3 years? comda - no need for an attitude - VintronNZ was only trying to help.

Please look in device manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?

And I'm guessing you've tried moving the computer closer to the wireless router (just as a test)? If not, please do so. Quote

he would boot the computer up to find a X through the wireless icon

comda - no need for an attitude - VintronNZ was only trying to help.

Please look in device manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?

And I'm guessing you've tried moving the computer closer to the wireless router (just as a test)? If not, please do so.

This is somewhat unusual. Do you perhaps mean that there is an X through the network icon? An X through the wireless icon means that the wireless capability has been disabled through a hardware switch.

A family member gave me a use Gateway Desktop. I need to see the BIOS
This really sucks. 
On new Gateway PCs you have a hard time getting into the BIOS.   
Sorry, it is not BIOS anymore. It is now UEFI  
It think it means:
 Unbelievable
 Freking
 Everybody
 Idiotically

Here is the video:
http://gateway-us.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/37064/~/windows-10%3A-access-the-uefi-bios

I will control  myself an d not say more.  Quote

On new Gateway PCs you have a hard time getting into the BIOS.

You press a key during boot-up. It's literally the same process that I used to access the CMOS on my 286, and it is described right in the article you linked...

I recently spotted the following capture card on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datapath-Limited-RGB-PRO2-DGC103C-Dual-VGA-capture-card-PCI-interface/263422180565?epid=0&hash=item3d552f7cd5:g:5tgAAOSwBOlaUGLG

https://www.datapath.co.uk/images/manuals/past-manuals/VisionRGB-PRO_capture_card_user_manual.pdf

https://www.datapath.co.uk/supportdownloads/legacy-downloads/rgb-pro-driver/VisionRGB-ReadMe.html

I want to know if this card could capture a VGA output from my old computer in the basement to another computer.  Could it do it?  I already have a VGA splitter, and have verified it works.  Hoping to USE it to capture the computer game Stonekeep by Interplay without having to go the other route and use DOSBOX.Not sure what the goal is here...
Simply capturing vid and moving it to another PC won't allow you to play the game...only view the capture...
The game needs to be installed to the 2nd PC to do anything...My intention is to play the game on the computer that the video is being sent from to the card.  What I need to know is if the video will display on the second computer where the video capture software is active.No
It has to be played on the PC its installed to...whether it'll live stream to another PC at the same time you would have to read the card manual...
That being said i gotta believe there will be some lag involved.Would I be able to get a proper signal on the DataPath card when sending it from the older computer?  The video signal will be going through a splitter first, then to both the older computer's monitor and the capture device at the same time.  The game would be played on the older Windows 98 computer, and the signal would go to the capture card on the Windows XP computer.  Could there be a chance it may be able to display Windows but be unable to display the game?  Stonekeep is an MS-DOS game.  If I attempted Doom for Windows 95, it would have a HIGHER resolution than Stonekeep would be capable of displaying.It almost sounds like you want to extent the VGA cable a long ways.
VGA cable was never meant to run a long distance, but some have done in in a few experiments. Likewise, the keyboard and mouse cables can also be extended. The VGA cable is hard because it has high frequency data.


Quote

The game would be played on the older Windows 98 computer, and the signal would go to the capture card on the Windows XP computer.

Why dont you simply install the game to this PC and install DosBox and run it ? ?

One seller replied and even sent a video and images showing me what it was capable of.  He showed a PowerMac being shown being captured under Windows XP, and even connected the output of ESXi he has running on a server which is just a text console.  (80 X 25)

Here's a few images he sent me.  The first is of the ESXi.  The other is the PowerMac's desktop screen.  He already sent me a link to where he got the drivers, so I'm covered for that.

The answer is here on CH.
Short for GUID PARTITION Table

The ARTICLE is dated  10/04/2017
Thanks s to WHOEVER did it. Nice explanation.
It did not MENTION than you can not use GPT to BOOT 32 bit Windows 7.

My Specs:

Processor AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 965 Processor

Video Card AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series

RAM 8.0 GB

Operating System Microsoft WINDOWS 10 (build 16299), 64-bit

I've been trying to fix this problem for a week now and I honestly don't know what ELSE to do.

So far this is all the info I've got and everything I've tried, hope it's some use:

External HDD works fine on any other computer except this one
Other WD External HDD don't work either on this computer
I've tried uninstalling all the drivers and downloading them again, with no change whatsoever
WD Drive shows up as Read-Only on the WD Driver Hub, and tells me I should format it, but when I tried to use WD Driver Utilities to do just that it would fail with this message: "An exception occurred during the operation, making the result invalid."
When opened, disk management ask me if I want to initialise the disk, but when prompt to it fails and says: The Request Failed Due To A Fatal Device Hardware Error.
The External HDD shows up as My Passport without the name I gave it(which does show up when plugged into other computers) and with 0 bytes
I do not have anything important inside the drive, I've already formatted the external HDD in NTFS just to be sure, nothing changed
This issue caused me so much frustration that I ended up restarting my entire PC to factory SETTING... which didn't HELP at all
Cause of the Issue:

I was playing The Surge from the WD External HDD when the game crashed so I turned off the computer, but when it took too long to close I just pressed the button and put my PC out of its misery. Which I extremely regret now, since it hasn't worked in this specific PC since then

[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space] Quote from: IBrokeMyHDD on January 27, 2018, 01:56:27 PM

I was playing The Surge from the WD External HDD when the game crashed so I turned off the computer, but when it took too long to close I just pressed the button and put my PC out of its misery. Which I extremely regret now, since it hasn't worked in this specific PC since then

This is a last ditch effort to obtain any helpful suggestions.  The background is that a few years ago someone BROKE into my house and stole my laptop (among other things), which also had my SD card for the camera inserted into the reader.  There were certain family photos saved to the laptop that are irreplaceable.

Awhile BACK, I realized that certain of the photos may actually be on the internal memory of the camera (from time to time I would take a few photos, then realize my SD card wasn't inserted, and then start using the card).  Though I'm able to pull off the most recent photos, I'm wanting to run a file recovery software on the internal memory to see if I can pull off any of the DELETED photos.  When I plug the camera (Kodak Easyshare C360) into the computer using the USB cable, it shows up as a camera rather than a drive (so I can't effectively run any of the file recovery programs I've found).  From a lot of searching/reading, I'm not finding a solution to this in Windows.  However, if someone has one please let me know!

I have a number of laptops/old computers lying around, so if a Windows solution isn't feasible--is there an alternate OS that might allow this FUNCTIONALITY?  I installed Ubuntu (Linux) onto one computer, but am having the same issue (being recognized as a camera and not a drive).  Is there a Ubuntu/Linux solution?

This is a latch ditch/hail Mary effort for me, as I'd really like to recover at least some of the photos that were stolen.  If the camera itself has a function to transfer internal memory images to a external SD Card, then I would go that route. And then take teh SD Card to a Reader and access them that way.

 Not familiar with this exact model but my Samsung for example has where I can select through a menu on the camera and tell it to unload pictures from internal memory to the SD Card then access it through SD Card Reader.

Some cameras however dont have this ability, but the software that docks the camera to the computer over a USB connection can acquire the pictures off the camera by the software communicating with the camera handshakes with camera and acts as a communications bridge to download the images to a hard drive on your computer. If you have this software installed on the computer and it says there are no pictures or only recent pictures then what ever was there prior is gone. I had 1 Kodak camera years back....all i remember from it is the EasyShare software was pure garbage...There isn't a way to access the internal memory of the camera directly as a drive unless the camera itself provides that feature. You might find a connection mode or similar setting that you can set to "mass storage" for example. Typically, however, Cameras appear as, well- cameras, to the system which have volumes that allow the images to be accessed, which you cannot access as a drive letter.

If the camera does not expose it's internal memory as a volume that can be directly accessed by the computer then there likely isn't a way to use any recovery software on it. the OS doesn't matter- it is the camera itself that dictates what "USB Class" it is.

Hello everyone,

Unfortunately I messed up.
My laptop (very old) was missing its operating system - it didn't boot up at all. So, I downloaded a new version of Windows XP onto a boot device and installed it onto the HDD of the laptop.
I remember accessing it many months ago and being shocked that the HDD's space was no longer occupied by all of my files.
Unfortunately, trying to regain access to the COMPUTER today, I seem to have forgotten the password for Windows XP.
I can load up a live version of GNU/Linux, but I'm here to ask:
Is it worth it? Will my data be recoverable, or not?
It just seems that people go through so much time and effort to completely wipe their hard drives with tools like Boot and Nuke, will that fresh installation have really completely wiped all of my data? If it is possible, how can I RECOVER the data that I have lost?

THANKS so much for any help.

[EDIT] I don't know if this is good news - but I did not install anything else onto the computer after I installed Windows. I have not touched anything when I realized that my data might have been gone. I have not made any attempt to install another operating system recently. I am just left with a computer that had visible data - I installed Windows that made the data invisible, and now I don't have access to the operating system or the data.
Fingers crossed!The fact that you installed an OS (or wrote anything to the disk) has made it more difficult to recover your files.  Some may not be able to be recovered at all but others might be.  You could try downloading a utility like Recuva and running it to attempt to recover your files.  Good luck.Thanks a lot for the reply -  do you have any advice with regards to how I can use Recuva on my system - as I said, I don't know the password the the laptop anymore.
I don't want to reinstall a fresh version of Windows again in case it might destroy even more data. How should I proceed?

Thank you for your help!Laptop password or Windows password ? ?Windows password - I know for a fact that it wasn't a standard dictionary word, by the way.
Also, none of the files are encrypted on the laptop - I forgot to mention.
The BIOS password is unset (thankfully).how was, and now is, the drive on the XP machine formatted?  NTFS vs FAT changes recovery chances.
did you delete the existing partition during the reinstall of XP?

but from a high level point of view, you've just written 20-30gigs worth of data to that drive, potentially overwriting the majority of your data..
not to mention killing the previous $MFT, so at the very least, all your data will be classed as 'lost' and you'll only be able to recover the first cluster of any file.

run Recuva with a Deep Scan, PREPARE for it to take many hours, and despite it showing file status of Excellent, try OPENING some recovered files, chances will be the files are corrupted and cannot be accessed.  but you have to try.

let me guess, you have no backups... Arrdnic,
It would seem your problem began when you did not start backup plan.
Do no try an write  any thing to the drive.
Use another working PC o help you recover any data.
The laptop HDD can be place in an external enclosure with a USB interface..
Here is a list of free recovery software.
http://www.techradar.com/news/software/applications/best-free-data-recovery-tools-1321723
Piriform Recuva is top rated. Others might work differently.
DMDE Free Edition has some features taht might help.

Is any of the data valuable? Seagate offers data recovery for a price.
They also offer software if you want to do it yourself.
https://www.seagate.com/services-software/recover/

Windows 10 boots up but froze up will not go to pass word page?
Have tried all keys on key board and mouse?force the PC off by holding in the power button for 5 seconds.
repeat this a COUPLE of TIMES and eventually it'll do a "PLEASE waiting, attempting repairs" sort of thing.
then it should pop up the Advanced Startup Options menu, click on Troubleshoot and try using System Restore Points to 'go back in TIME'.What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

Can you boot to safe mode? Does using a restore point (as suggested above) WORK for you?

Hello everyone, so here's a bit of info on my PC.

Its a desktop I ordered off of amazon about two years ago, the OS originally ran win 7 but I upgraded it to win 10 which in it's self was a mistake because after that I Immediately started have sound issues, at first it was small and easy to fix but over the course of two years It has become more hard to fix and It's GOTTEN to the point where my knowledge is no longer useful.   
So I've tried alot of tips but none of them have worked. I hope maybe one of you can help before I have to give up or get a new sound CARD. Oh and P.S My sound is internal or built in, I have external speakers but those too do not work.

Thanks! 

what is the make and model of the motherboard?
perhaps the sound drivers are not Win10 compatible, or simply may need updating.

what is the sound issue?, just lose of sound?, intermittent issue?, only during game play?
what have you been doing to fix the issue?, reloading drivers?, rebooting? etc... Quote from: Mark. on February 06, 2018, 01:20:00 PM

what is the make and model of the motherboard?
perhaps the sound drivers are not Win10 compatible, or simply may need updating.

what is the sound issue?, just lose of sound?, intermittent issue?, only during game play?
what have you been doing to fix the issue?, reloading drivers?, rebooting? etc...

So i recently noticed that either Left or Right shift have stopped working with the "m" key. They WORK with every other key. When i try using shift+m it just doesnt type anything, no MATTER what program im typing in. Anyone know whats wrong?

I do on the other hand get a capital "M" when i use caps lock..

another thing to add is that the m dont work when im playing a game , say im holding down the movement keys while i walk in a game , and then im trying to click m to get up the map while walking , that does not work either , i have to stop using any other keys on the keyboard then click m and the map comes up, so the m key dont seen to want to work while i hold down any other keys while in game either.
Update : if i tap both shift and m very fast at the same time it does all of a sudden type the m in capital letters , but only when i tap both of them multiple times like a MACHINE gun .... very strange

mMMMMMMMMMmmmMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMmmMmmmmmmM MMMMMmmMMMMMMMMmMMMMmmMM

thats the only way im able to get capital m , anyone know whats up ?What type of keyboard is it?  My guess is that the keyboard is simply experiencing a failure and probably needs to be replaced. 

My experience is that the average keyboard today doesn't last very long as they are made with extremely low cost components.  However, there are higher end keyboards available , made with better quality components, that will last a long time.  I personally have an IBM Model M keyboard that I've had since 1986 that's used daily and still works like new. Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Desktop!0 years old...If you love that specific keyboard and want one just like it you might be able to find a same or similar replacement online for sale. I check amazon and ebay for stuff that I want that is obsolete. And prefer amazon over ebay for buying obsolete new and used stuff. QUOTE from: Janah on February 04, 2018, 10:55:05 AM

Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Desktop

I personally have an IBM Model M keyboard that I've had since 1986 that's used daily and still works like new.

I was reading a post by one of the mods ASKING a poster if they had a Windows 10 DISK. Besides a recovery disk, is there such a thing?One COULD imagine MAKING a poster with most any disc.   I think you may have misread my post. My question was, does there exist such a thing as a disk that contains Windows 10?Yes, you can either burn Windows 10 to a DVD or create an installation Flash Drive as install media ]here. Windows 10 can also be purchased at retail on a DVD, though that is quite a bit harder to find than the Flash Drive version.And yes...they do exist.

Rare but available...Whoops, I messed up the link above- should be this

So i've got a somewhat old desktop that i'm thinking of upgrading, I'm planning on upgrading the RAM and the Graphics.
RAM is no PROBLEM, I've picked out some RAM sticks, my motherboard supports DDR3. The next thing I'm planning on upgrading is the Graphics Card, and that is where my QUESTION is: most Graphics Cards I've found support GDDR5 so I'm wondering will there be any issues or will it work if I have DDR3 RAM INSTALLED, and how will I know it is compatible with my CPU and Motherboard?The standard of RAM on the video card doesn't NEED to match the motherboard, you can safely use a GDDR5 GPU with a DDR3 motherboard assuming that everything else is compatible (suitable slots available and SUFFICIENT headroom on the PSU to power the new card).You may wanna post the current system specs and info so we can advise if it's a wate of money...or not.

Hello, this is my first post on this site, will try to be clear and concise, hope this is the right place for this question.
I'm clueless about computers, and frustrated with the amount of data I consume or more accurately have to pay for!
Where we live the only choice for internet access is satellite, or wireless hotspot. We had Hughesnet for awhile, for the last five years or so we've had a Verizon Mifi Jetpack Hotspot (5510 I think).
In a nutshell, my wife and I have two iPhones and a Mac desk TOP computer. 98% of our data usage is consumed by the desktop Mac primarily watching youtube video.
My questions are many, why does the Mac computer devour data watching youtube? Will my usage be reduced if I used the iPhone to watch youtube as opposed to the desktop Mac? Along those same lines would it be wise to purchase an iPad to watch youtube or would it devour data like the desktop Mac?Adblocker might reduce data consumption on the Mac if the browser has an adblocker option. Only other way to reduce data consumption would be to trick the browser into THINKING the connection is slower to get a 360p or 720 vs a higher definition which will make videos lesser QUALITY but you will save from wasting data on your data plan by getting thinner data streams vs the fat ones of higher definition that are eating it up. Other than that having a device acting as a gateway between the hotspot and the other devices COULD throttle bandwidth and give some control of slowing the flood GATE to a device that is a bandwidth hog, but this is a tricky setup that is advanced and tricky and comes at a cost of time and money to get right.Do you have Chrome? Chrome has a data saver option. Quote from: Coco423 on February 18, 2018, 10:24:16 AM

Do you have Chrome? Chrome has a data saver option.

I currently have two hard drives and a solid state drive in my computer. My Windows (10 upgraded from 7) is currently installed on my SSD however I was informed recently that my SSD is going to burn out. (It's using 100% processing power or something like that which I was told it shouldn't be doing and it's going to fail soon. I don't know the specifics just what I was told.) I was going to reinstall Windows on my computer to one of the hard drives but I cannot find my Windows DISK so I want to know how/if I can transfer it from the SSD to one of my HDs. I appreciate any help. I am a basic computer user so please include step by step instructions. Thank you!You can clone the SSD to one of your HDDs if the HDD is empty and larger in capacity than the SSD.

There are many cloning applications for Windows. The tried and true one that I've had success with is Clonezilla. It's free, but be advised it is not the most user-friendly application.

http://clonezilla.org/show-live-doc-content.php?topic=clonezilla-live/doc/03_Disk_to_disk_clone

I've tried to clone a SYSTEM disk with the free versions of other applications such as AOMEI Backupper and Macrium Reflect. These seem like great programs but I was unable to clone and boot from a system partition with the free version. I'm fairly certain that the PAID version is required to do that. If anyone has different information please feel free to correct me.

However whatever you do I strongly recommend that you create a Windows 10 installation disk before you make any changes. You can make one for free, by downloading the Windows 10 ISO from Microsoft and writing it to a USB thumbdrive with Rufus.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
https://rufus.akeo.ie/

The free versions of the various cloning applications should be able to clone a drive without issue.  Check the features list of Macrium Reflect here: https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.  It clearly shows that the free version supports direct disk cloning.I've used Macrium reflect to clone boot drives to replace them a number of times.THANKS for your responses. I will try Macrium again.

Edit: I see, it was indeed human error... I was trying to clone a system partition, not the ENTIRE drive, so the MBR was excluded. Thanks again.

Recently one of my RAM sticks stopped working UNSURE of why. They are both HyperX DDR3 4gig sticks, i reseated them and got both of them to work again, but when i tried to boot i got an error that windows did not launch proply. Since i got this error my computer is running very slow and every game i try and play gets terrible FPS issues to the point where its nearlly unplayable. I have already tried reseating the RAM again, resetting the BIOS battery, a scan and repair, uninstalling some unused games/programs, checked comp temps. I would like to reset the computer to factory but when i try i get a windows is missing files error. Could this be the cause or is it still the RAM?I would run MemTest on the RAM....1 stik at a time...
Any errors at all = bad RAM.

Let it run at least an hour on each stik.Stopped working as in your system reported 4GB vs 8GB?

This could be intermittent connection between RAM and then memory slot on motherboard.

I ran into a system a ways back that all was good until playing games I had originally thought. But what it really was that the woofer was under the desk and the explosions in game were rumbling the computer case and RAM/motherboard was vibrating as a result of this and so it really was intermittent connection between gold fingers in the memory slot and not that the RAM stick itself had a physical issue. When i inspected further I noticed that when looking along the motherboard to the 4 memory sticks one of the sticks was leaning up ever so slightly. When I unlocked the retaining wings to eject the RAM stick I found that in the socket at the bottom of it was a dust bunny that must have been knocked free when installing the RAM and it got pressed into the bottom of the memory slot causing the RAM stick to slot 2 to not seat properly flush in the socket. Carefully removed the dust bunny with canned air and installed RAM stick and then all was good after that. The corner of the stick that was raised I guess didnt have a SOLID connection when the computer was vibrated from explosions in gameplay. 

So make sure the memory SLOTS are clean of dirt/dust/lint and nothing in bottom of memory slots that may cause RAM to not seat properly. Canned Air works best to get dust out of them.

*Vacuum cleaners can be deadly to motherboards and components due to static discharge when vacuuming, as well as can make for fun troubles if a jumper gets sucked up. Fortunately very few motherboards have jumpers all over them anymore as enabling/disabling features and speed settings are mostly in the BIOS now. the CMOS battery though might still have a jumper for Clearing CMOS though which a vacuum could eat.Yea it reported only 4 gigs so i reseated it and it read the 8 gigs again. Thats when i got the windows error and now if i try factory reset i get an error saying im missing window's files. Could that be a cause of fps lag in games etc? Sorry for late reply. Ill try the ram test right now.So i ran Memtest i did a 1 hour test per stick 1 stick at a time and got 0 errors on both. Does this mean it could be a cpu issue?If not the RAM, then motherboard is next most likely cause with a intermittent connection between the RAM and memory slots. While CPU's do have memory controllers on them, I have yet to see a CPU memory controller fail.

If the motherboard has 4 memory slots 2 USED and 2 unused you can try using other slots such as slot 1 and 3 vs 0 and 2. Its best to have RAM in slot 0 and 2 if its a 4 memory slot type board for dual-channel. But if motherboard only has 2 slots this wont help you any unless you test with 4GB in slot 0 and everything is good and then only a stick of RAM in slot 1 to which if it acts up you can try the other stick in slot 1 and if it acts up again then you know something is up with slot 1. Which would be generally to replace the motherboard to correct for a memory slot issue.So my problem seems to be still ongoing. 2 days ago one of my ram stiks completely stopped working i have since replaced it with a new one and my fps seems a little bit better in games but im still getting drops and its not smooth at all. Completely stumped on what it could beIs the voltage for memory correct in BIOS?

Just curious if you have voltage set wrong in BIOS and roasting them slowly maybe. In the overclock section of your BIOS under memory there is usually an option to overdrive the voltages to RAM. If this was set too high it will roast your RAM and cause issues over driving them.Is that possible to happen on its own. I have not touched any settings in there at all.

Edit: Checked the voltage and it was around 1.500 googled if that was ok and it seems thats normal and not anything high etc.So my computer seems to be running ALOT better since i installed the new ram stik. It just seems to be an fps issue in games only.

Is it possible that the missing windows files or maybe corrupted windows files could be causing this? Would i benefit from factory resetting or do you think its something else. I'd need to purchase another copy of windows as i don't have access to my product code to redownload so im hesitant in doing that until i know for sure that it would indeed benefit my problem at all.

My sister's computer failed to start and just stayed in the POST procedures.  It messaged us by sounding: a single short beep, a long PAUSE, (repeat forever).  So, after learning her system was around 12 years old, we went and bought a battery for the CMOS; brought it home, installed it, and the beeping continued once the power cable was connected and the power button pressed.  Next, I learned that endless beeping on her Award bios meant there was a RAM issue.  So reseated each piece of RAM and now there is only one beep, which means that POST completed its check successfully, at least that's what I learned, and then the monitor never gets a signal. 

The harddisk sounds activity, all the fans work, and I reattached the cables to the harddisk and CDROM drive.  Her monitor works because we checked her computer with my working monitor and still no signal.  We let her system sit there for about 2 hours now and it's the same.

Thank you so much for reading through this problem I'm unable to solve; hopefully with your help it can be solved. So POST is correct now but you get no signal to the monitor ? ?

You sure it's the correct RAM ? ?

Onboard vid or card ? ?have any of the capacitors on the motherboard started to bulge upwards, or even started to leak?Please include the exact make and model number of the PC.
That way somebody and check to see if there is either a known issue.
Or we can download the user manual and see if the documentation has a clue.

Quote from: patio on February 06, 2018, 07:30:49 AM

So POST is correct now but you get no signal to the monitor ? ?

You sure it's the correct RAM ? ?

Onboard vid or card ? ?

have any of the capacitors on the motherboard started to bulge upwards, or even started to leak?

Please include the exact make and model number of the PC.
That way somebody and check to see if there is either a known issue.
Or we can download the user manual and see if the documentation has a clue.

I would avoid creating a dual boot system with XP and Windows 10 especially if the computer is UEFI and has a GPT disk as XP cannot boot from a GPT disk/UEFI computer. You will need an XP key in order to activate XP in the VM.

edit: If anyone else has any other ideas please respond.   Do you think the problem is the graphics card?  We tried attaching her monitor's cable to the video-out port on the motherboard, but that didn't change the lack of signal to her monitor.

Did you remove the vid card for this test? ?...

Actually, we took the CPU to a repair shop and he replaced one of the RAM sticks and it is susposedly working fine now!! :mrgreen:

After my sister got her computer home and plugged it in it started beeping again.
.... so we took it back to the repair-shop guy and it worked just fine when he plugged it in.... So after her computer came home she plugged it in with my monitor's power cord and it repeated the black screen and beeping fiasco.

She ... moved her computer to the living room; it worked just fine!! ...  Her power strip lost its ability to successfully power her computer, but it still works to provide power to the lamp in the living room.
...

This is very, very unusual.

Hello. I have a ten year old Lenovo Thinkpad W500 running Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit with 4 GB RAM.
HDD: 95 GB free out of 148 GB

It is currently having a problem with overheating. Yesterday I noticed that my CPU and Motherboard were around 80 to 90 degrees Celsius after four hours of usage. Today I was using it and noticed that my CPU  and Motherboard were 80 to 90 degrees Celsius after one hour of light usage. Please help! I used to be able toto use it longer than four hours and the temp be at 50 degrees Celsius just two days ago! I do have access to a WinXP laptop but it needs a new battery to boot up. And I have access to four flash drives in case I need to put a file on the computer.Hi

The first THING to check  is air flow out the left side of the laptop. If there is no air being blown out , can you hear the fan spinning? it will be at maximum speed with those temperatures. If the fan isn't spinning then it is likely faulty and will need to be replaced. A faulty fan is unlikely as without the fan the laptop would get to those temps in minutes not hours.

See here how to do this  https://support.lenovo.com/nz/en/solutions/migr-71370

If the fan is spinning but there isn't airflow then the HEAT sink fins maybe blocked with dust. You can often clear the blockage with a can of compressed air but you need to hold the fan to stop it spinning with the compressed air.

Last option is that the heat sinks need re mounting, this is unlikely and  not something a user should attempt.
    Ugh. Not good. The issue, that is.Ugh. I do not know how to open the laptop up and check, and if I use a guide I will probably misunderstand the guide and do it wrong. Can not afford a professional to do it. I am experienced with software and OSes, not with opening up computers. When I first start the laptop up and for a hour or so after, I hear air blowind but not after. Today, when I booted the laptop up, I heard no air blowing. Ugh. This is my main laptop, fan has probably been clogged with dust. How do I get into BIOS to turn the fan speed up to see if that works? Guide to open up the laptop to check the fan?The guide VintronNZ linked to above is very detailed regarding how to disassemble and reassemble your laptop.  If you aren't able to follow those instructions yourself and can't afford to pay someone to do it, maybe you have a friend that could do it?

That's the real fix, open the laptop and clean the dust and lint out of it but as a band-aid, you may be able to improve things by using one of those external laptop coolers that you place underneath the laptop that increase the airflow into the laptop thru the bottom.  They are really just a band-aid though.  Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01469DJLM?tag=laptop-magazine-20If the fan is clogged, it is probably clpggef with pet hair from my constantly shedding, yet loving, pets.What strollin suggested works ok with laptops that draw air thru the bottom of the laptop or if the chassis is made of a metal. This is not the case with your laptop so would have little benefit. If you just ignore this it is possible you will damage the video chip and then a simple cheap fix will become "almost not worth repairing".
A heat sink clean out  and fan check should take less than an hour tops for a technician to do and will save a lot of grief later.   Okay... good point. Definitely will get technician when I get my next paycheck.Okay. I admit it. I am sick and tired of this problem. I really need to work on a Wordpad document on this computer right now but can't because it "overheated " badly "sigh" again, and it is in sleep mode cooling off and I really need help with this problem. Please help!Chances are the heatsink is clogged up. There is no magic software or registry tweak or whatever you can install to fix it, and you've already been advised that you can either clean it yourself, or, if you do not trust your abilities, get somebody else to do it.

You may at least want to check the vents on the bottom of the laptop- this is where the W500 draws in air, and as a result it may be clogged up. You might be able to clear some of it and get at least get usable temperatures. Strollin's solution of a cooling pad might help a tiny bit- if nothing else it will improve the amount of air that can get through the ridiculously small intake vents. However it would be wiser to put that money towards having somebody qualified take a look at and clean out the heatsink of the system.

And as Vintron mentioned, continued use in this state will eventually result in the system effectively destroying itself and becoming completely unusable and more expensive to repair than to replace.
The problem is, I have to use the laptop regularly until the BEGINNING of next month, due to a project I have to do on it. Well, it looks like my budget will be tight due to taking it to a pro. Looks like I have to get the battery next month. I am using AC power.Yeah. Those are ridiculosly small. One of them is clogged, and another one is about a tenth clogged. Definetely going to use an external fan until I can afford a technician. Noticing the temps are around 60 - 70 degrees celcius now, not as desireable as I would want it to be, but a slight cool down in temps, thank goodness.I noticed the temps cooldown yesterday when I booted the computer up. Giving the computer a rest today.

So i bought this PC about two YEARS ago on a limited budget. It has worked great but obviously i do need a better GPU as i only have a 750ti in it. I can play games but FPS isn't steady and sometimes i do get big DROPS which makes game play unplayable for a couple of seconds or so. The MB is needed as two slots in it gave out. One day they were working and the next day they weren't. The MB still works and all, but i been told my RAM isn't getting full use cause of how i have had to place them. So i need a new MB and a new GPU.

Also looking to buy a new monitor. Something around 25 inches or so.

 

Here is the speccy link for my system, any advice welcomed and appreciated. Thanks!

 

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/rTm3MHB7zbNu6AT5BIv8XI4Hi
Thanks so much for the speccy report , This has meant I have been able to check so many things very quickly.

First off the memory dual channel problem. Your motherboard would need the 2 * 4gb memory modules installed in the grey sockets  as per page 16 of the manual, the manual is here.

https://images10.newegg.com/UploadFilesForNewegg/itemintelligence/g/mb_manual_ga_z97x_sli_e1401382886486.pdf

Also have you tried setting up Avast for gaming mode ? This is the most likely cause of the game FPS not being steady. check here as it explains better than I can.
https://blog.avast.com/gamer-takes-on-avast-game-mode-does-it-really-work-online-security

You can UPGRADE the graphics card without any motherboard change but the power supply would need to be checked it has enough power for a better card.

If this is any help please use the thank you below   
 



If the memory slots have truly failed, I don't think there really is much to "upgrade" with a new  motherboard, so you may as well replace it with the same model if possible, as that would at least ensure compatibility with what you have. It may be worth exploring whether Gigabyte offers any sort of manufacturer warranty  that is still in effect, as I'd expect the memory slots failing would fall under it.

Now is a rather awful time to get a new Graphics card, as manufacturing has not kept up with demand. Even used graphics cards fetch a  high sum- a GTX 970 for example goes for over $300 used. a 1070 goes on eBay used for nearly $200 more than I paid for mine new.

This makes it somewhat difficult to recommend any sort of upgrade. However it's possible the issues you've seen aren't related to your graphics card so it might be premature to explore a GPU upgrade, particularly in light of the excess prices of Graphics Cards. VintronNZ has an alternative explanation that might help.

otherwise, I'd suggest exploring your options within the 9 and 10 series of NVIDIA Graphics Cards and AMD's R9 and possibly R8 cards and see how they compare to one another as well as what you have. If you google "Card A Vs Card B" you'll often get a result to UserBenchmark and GPUBoss websites which can give a reasonably good idea of how the two cards compare. It should also indicate aspects such as Power Draw which you will want to consider in cnoncert with your PSU's rated wattage.The RAM sticks are installed as they are cause the other two slots burned out. They used to be installed per the manual, but like i said they burned out and had no choice but to install them as i have them now.

I will try your advice on setting the avast to gaming mode, but i don't know how much that will work. I mean the 750ti i have is basically an entry level GPU and i figure that is the cause.

Sorry that i forgot to mention the power supply, thought that would be in the speccy. I have a CX600M from Corsair. Quote from: VintronNZ on February 16, 2018, 01:25:15 PM

Hi
Thanks so much for the speccy report , This has meant I have been able to check so many things very quickly.

First off the memory dual channel problem. Your motherboard would need the 2 * 4gb memory modules installed in the grey sockets  as per page 16 of the manual, the manual is here.

https://images10.newegg.com/UploadFilesForNewegg/itemintelligence/g/mb_manual_ga_z97x_sli_e1401382886486.pdf

Also have you tried setting up Avast for gaming mode ? This is the most likely cause of the game FPS not being steady. check here as it explains better than I can.
https://blog.avast.com/gamer-takes-on-avast-game-mode-does-it-really-work-online-security

You can upgrade the graphics card without any motherboard change but the power supply would need to be checked it has enough power for a better card.

If this is any help please use the thank you below   

Hello.

I have a pretty decent build, but during the past 3 DAYS, my gpu runs quite hot and is quite loud in more demanding games :/ 

Current temps:
40c idle
78c max 99%
22c being ambient


Any ideas, folks?


Additional info:
Due to a problem when i ordered my cpu COOLER, i ended up with a kraken x62 (my receipt still says cryorig h7) and i already had this gpu on the way. this ended up being a bit of an awkward build, but it worked

I looked around and found no evidence of using the gpu rad as a bottom intake would hurt it, so it went there. The only other option was to be used as a rear exhaust.
(which MAY have worsened airflow)

Corsair Carbide 600C (inverted ATX case) is used because of room layoutYou said:
Quote

... I looked around and found no evidence of using the gpu rad as a bottom intake would hurt it, so it went there. The only other option was to be used as a rear exhaust.
(which may have worsened airflow) ...

AMD Atlon II 250 3.0GHz
MSI GF615M-P33 (MS-7597)
Gigabyte HD5670 1GB
Crucial 4GB Ram DDR3 1333 MHz
Sound Blaster  X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro
Windows XP Pro 32Bit SP3

You said:Your specs are:And you are using a kraken x62 unit to cool the CPU. Is that right?

Normally one would not put a heat radiating device underneath anything.
Only as a test, you could do this:
Carefully put  the case on its side, boot up and measure  the temps again.
(Hard drives are rated to work either vertical or horizontal. Same with fans.)

Your sig needs fixed re-sized...or removed.

Didn't notice when posting. I haven't been here for a few years so things have changed...

Carefully put  the case on its side, boot up and measure  the temps again.

Heee Hee...welcome back...

My laptop stopped working for a while. Since i needed a document from that same laptop i took out the internal hard drive and put it on an external hard drive case and connected it to another pc so that i could retrieve said document. I fixed the old lap top that wouldn't turn on (some cables ripped, easy fix) and installed the old hard drive i had connected to the external hard drive case. But after i turned on my pc it seemed to not work right since a lot of files i had no ACCESS to, my DESKTOP image changed, it was a BIT clunkier, couldn't access the windows menu (neither by clicking the windows keyboard or clicking om the windows button on the desktop), and just lots of things wouldnt work right. I'm thinking it could be a problem with the disk drive access. What could be the problem?

Please HelpThe other system if it TOUCHED the drive in a way that altered it, it could have caused the problem ( or ) the system files were already corrupted yet because not important for external drive access that is why you were able to get your files using other computer, yet have issues when it went back into original computer.

I'd suggest using the recovery media that you should have for this computer and perform a repair installation. This will keep your data intact while repairing broken windows components.

The drive could still be defective, but you might have just a OS issue being corrupt on that drive.

I am switching from Windows 7 to Windows 10. I have 7 on one hard drive and 10 on another. I am using a third hard drive to transfer files from 7 to 10. Both of the first two hard drives RECOGNIZE the third hard drive. The problem is that the files I have transfered from 7 aren't showing up in 10. The files I have put on the third drive from 10 show up in 7 though. I don't have the first two drives hooked up to the computer at the same time, I shut the computer off and switch the wires from one drive to the other.
So why am I not seeing the files in 10?If drives are connected via USB, then it could be that Windows 10 doesn't have the proper driver for the USB to SATA Hard drive Controller that does the communications bridging between the EXTERNAL hard drives SATA communications over USB connectivity. What is make/model of the drive and enclosure that is not connecting to Windows 10?

Windows 7 has a driver support that 10 doesn't have I am guessing ( or ) 10 is trying to use the wrong driver against this drive as an external and that's why in which you might have to specify the driver for this drive to connect with.

If the enclosure is one that is UNKNOWN or no driver support for it, a easy solution may be just to buy a NEW external enclosure that states its windows 10 supported and move the drive to the new enclosure. Then have access to your data on that drive on 7 and 10.All the drives are connected by a data cable.

I bought a 32 gigabyte flash drive to experiment with, the 8 gig I already have didn't have a problem on either 7 or 10. I put some of my files, some of the same ones I put on the backup drive but can't see, and then I TRIED to put them on the backup drive while in 10 and it says they are already on the drive. For some reason I can't see or access them in 10. Did you try taking ownership of the folders...that is if they show ? ?

I recently acquired a used Dell LCD monitor it has a 15 pin female adapter and there is a cord plugged in with a 15 pin male on one end the other end has been cut off could one assume this had a 15 pin male on both ENDS and if one would soldier another 15 pin male on connecting pin 1 to pin 1 and so on this would work?You could either seperate all the 15 wires, strip off 3mm to bare the copper, solder each end, get yourself a 15pin d-sub male adapter, solder each wire into each slot following the pin-out map of which wire goes where, clamp the cover over it all and pray your soldering is up to SCRATCH or.....


Just GO buy a VGA cable from almost any ELECTRONICS store. Costs about $10.Never assume anything when it comes to  cords...

so my audio stops working and I have to TAP the cord to get it to start again.
it uses the circle audio SLOT not USBIt's either the cord itself...or the slot...to TEST if it's the cord try different SPEAKERS...if it does the same it's the port...

Onboard audio or sound card BTW ? ?