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Determine the wavelength and the actual height of the waves? |
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Answer» What is the STEEPNESS of a wave? When the slope, or steepness RATIO, of a wave is too great, breaking is INEVITABLE. Individual waves in deep water break when the wave steepness—the ratio of the wave height H to the WAVELENGTH λ—exceeds about 0.17, so for H > 0.17 λ. |
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